Friday 3rd August 2007
Holmes Chapel 18.25 to Crewe 18.38. Crewe 18.53 to London Euston 20.49
London Liverpool Street 21.20 to Stansted Airport 22.20
No problem biking along to Liverpool Street this time, after getting lost here a few weeks ago around St Paul’s. I was over there in less than ½ an hour. I boarded the Stansted Express and as soon as I was there dismantled the bike. This time I ensured the wheels, with the tyres still blown up, went into the pockets of the bike bag, didn’t want any more frame scratches. Fitted the plastic spacers to the forks and rear drop outs with the wheel skewers and tied the chain the chain stay to ensure it didn’t get twisted. After cleaning up I went for a hot chocolate from Ponti’s café at midnight and settled down there to sleep with the bike and bags next to the police who were also sitting in there. I slept enough, later having to move to a floor area.
Saturday 4th August 2007
At 04.00 I checked in and unloaded myself of the bike and bags as soon as it opened. The weight of the bike is 18.4kg, weight of first bag 8.3kg, second bag 5.2kg. I passed through customs and bought a coffee later at Millie’s then went for the 07.00 flight for Bilbao. It didn’t leave until 08.00 but was still landing in Bilbao 20 minutes ahead of schedule at 09.40, Spanish time. I had coffee and bacon sandwich on the plane £5.20. On landing the luggage soon arrived on the belt, my bike took a bit longer. I re-assembled it outside the building. I thought at first the back wheel had a slight buckle but on closer examination later found out the tyre wasn’t seated properly on the rim. I biked with full load from the airport then took a right on to a minor road, Barrio de San Esteban through Desna followed by a steep uphill to the main road past San Esteban heading for the city then a long sweep down into Bilbao after passing the N637 flyover and along the Avenida Maurice Ravel and to the river opposite the Guggenheim Museum, over the Puenta Principal to arrive at the pre-booked hotel at 12.00 and left my bike bag and straps there. I got directions at the reception for the nearest train station (Basurto) for the FEVE train to Santander and boarded the 13.02 train, glad to be out of the heat. It cost 7.00€ to Santander and a further 11.10€ from Santander to Oviedo. The train arrived in Santander 15 minutes late but the train connection to Oviedo was waiting on the opposite platform. There were train problems part way along so people and bikes had to transfer to a coach for about 20 miles. Boarding the train again it was very noisy and hot, hot in more ways than one! There were some young sexy girls sitting opposite, distracting as I was trying to read my book, ‘Glorious Appearing’. The train was delayed at a station part way for about ¾ of an hour because an automatic door wouldn’t close and the train wouldn’t operate with it open. The conductor and driver struggled with the workings in the box above the door.
In the end an Irishman walked down the train and forcefully slammed the door – and it worked! Cheers all round and Irish were popular. The train was on its way again but now very late as it had to wait for an incoming train from Oviedo. Arrival in Oviedo scheduled at 20.50 turned out to be 22.15. I searched for a hotel in vain. They were all full so late in the day. One receptionist girl at a 3-star hotel was very helpful and rang round for me to no avail. I asked her if she knew of any restaurants that stayed open late. There was one called Pizzeria la Compeimet that was open until 01.00 so sat in there and enjoyed a pizza and a snooze until chucking out time then sat on a bench in the cathedral square until 06.00 at dawn (photo 6205). I needed to put on more clothing as it was cold before dawn.
Total distance today 33km, 2 hours 30 minutes
Sunday 5th August 2007 Oviedo to Pola de Allende
The girl at the hotel gave me a town map last night so armed with that I tried to find my way out of Oviedo at 08.45 after breakfast at the RENFE station. I checked if there were any trains heading out to the west but nothing for a few hours so. I headed out south in error but directed by a passer by to the right road for Grado and further west. I wanted to go to Obona then south for other passes. At Fuejo I came across a giant cardboard bull on a hillside, a mild shock at first rounding a bend to face it (photo 6206). I had a coffee at the top of the Cabrunana pass in a pub there on the right. The owner took an interest in where I was going and gave some advice on the best roads but I already planned the route. Down to the river at Cornellana. Chicken houses on corner supports at Villagor but then I saw a lot more in other area over the next two weeks. Up to Salas but it wasn’t steep, a main road before it. The way forward is progressively steeper up to La Espina, 830 metres, Puerto de la Espina being 60m lower. It’s an easy road along to Tejera then an uphill stretch to Tineo. I took the road off to the left indicated as Bárcena and monastery. On the way, Obona is in a valley over the highest point on the road west of Tineo at the crossroads with El Espin to the left. From the crossroads it’s a sweep down to Obona village then left again where a brown sign indicates Monasterio Obona, (photo 6207).To be fair though it would be a 6km steep rise coming up from Pola de Allende the other way. Obona, BIG number 388, down in the green valley then up again to the road and left for Pola. Later was a tiring section up through Borres and I was beginning to flag in the heat, also because of lack of sleep last night. Steeply up the next two passes on the way to Pola. Porcilles Pass was unexpected as I was expecting to join a road coming from the right, up and over this with a bit of struggle (photo 6208). The 30°C heat was affecting me and I was beginning to feel weak, turning the pedals at much reduced speed and not enjoying it. The second pass wasn’t on my undetailed map and this finished me off. It was higher than the Porcilles. There’s a bare hill to the right of the road at the top then it was steeply down to Pola and I was so glad to be there. I found the only hotel to the left of the main road and booked in at 25€ for the night. It was a good choice and slept well that night, much needed after little or no sleep the previous night. I enjoyed a macaroni and salad at a restaurant even if the macaroni was not the best. I was hungry as well as tired. I sorted out my bags back at the hotel and caught up with the diary and to sleep at 22.30
Trip distance today 110 km, total altitude 531 metres, temperature 25°C, ride time 9 hours, maximum speed 83 kph, average speed 12.9 kph, ODO 1 1042 km, ODO 2 995 kph, overall distance 2038 km, trip altitude 2423 metres., maximum altitude 817 metres (above Pola), average climb 3%, maximum climb 16%, total altitude 12710 metres.
Monday 6th August 2007 Pola de Allende to Cangas de Narcea
I left Pola after desperately searching for my wallet thinking I might have left it at the restaurant last night – took the bag apart – and there it was at the bottom! I try to be organised but should have sorted that out last night! I skipped breakfast, enough to eat last night; however I packed the on-tray breakfast left in my room. I was late enough out to meet the girl who brought that in yesterday. She remarked that I could have stayed for a relaxed breakfast after all, I was a bit sheepish! From Pola it was an immediate climb to Paso del Palo, BIG number 385 – and it was raining. Today was the only real rain I had all holiday, at other times there was low cloud and mist but this was the worst it got. After El Mazo there were no villages and a 12 kilometre twisty road that seemed to go on for ever in very green land and took me about 2 hours to the bare top. It’s very steep and low cloud at the top obscured the view, disappointed to see nothing for my effort except for a small building up there that I thought might be a Camino chapel but is only a hut (photo 6209). While up there three figures appeared from the mist covered in ponchos and got me to take a photo of them – with their camera of course! Down the other side I passed a girl who sat in her crashed car looking bewildered but on checking she said the ambulance and police were on their way and she wasn’t hurt. She had hit a protruding rock on the roadside in the thick mist. The rain eased at 3 kilometres down from the road summit and I was a bit confused with where the turn off was for the next pass but soon saw the sign to the left at Berducedo. I had a café con leche at the pub then took the narrow road to the left that soon became a scenic downhill in clear conditions, great scenery. I made the mistake though of taking a left further along that brought me steeply down to Rio del Oro (Golden River?) and had to pay for that with a long climb up again to rejoin the main route at San Salvadore, I took a left here and was on the right road for 10 kilometres to my next pass, Pozo de las Mujeres Muertas, BIG number 386 (The Well of the Dead Woman – hope I didn’t meet her) The way up is easy as far as Villalain, the last village before the pass then steeply up, counting the kilometres on my speedo to will myself up. Good time for meditation and thought a lot about Ruth, Mark and our house. Again it turned out misty 2 kilometres from the top and a little rain in contrast to the warm clear weather lower down. Once there I took the usual photo (photo 6210) and took a right to reach Valvaler Pass at 1115 metres, higher than BIG 386. From there steeply down the mountain with great views of the white rocky mountains to the right, through Seroiro to Ibias district then left on the valley road to San Antolín at 15.00. I had a café con leche from a pub there with my packed breakfast then headed south after ½ hour rest heading for the next pass, the Puerto del Connio, BIG number 387. This took me ages, arriving at the top at 18.00, about 2½ hours climbing. I was becoming too pre-occupied counting off the height from speedo, too conscious of the height remaining. For up to about ¾ of the way it’s steep but levels off the rest of the way to the top.
There’s plenty of trees and greenery, a bit like the Peak District at home with great views across to ‘Shutlingsloe’ to the left. It’s a barren summit and again disappointed because at 2 kilometres from the road summit I met the mist again and couldn’t see anything at the top except for brown cows for company. At about ¾ of the way up at 1000 metres a hill to the right comes steeply down to the road and thought at first this was it – but no – it’s 300 metres further up but fooled as the road levels out at this point to skirt left round the side of the hill and never rises steeply after this. (photos 6211, 6212)Steeply down from the top and quite cold to Posada where the kilometre signs end (32 kilometres from Ceros, south of San Antolín and the sign reads 12 kilometres at the top so that’s 20 kilometres to the top from Ceros. It 19.00 now and I had 16 kilometres to go to reach Cangas del Narcea, mainly downhill. I found a place to stay at 20.00 and bought some drinks for morning from a supermarket opposite, as well as crisps and cheese for lunch. I bought a bottle of water as I think the tap water hasn’t been good for my stomach, also two Chimay beers for this evening and a carton of multi-vitamin drink for manãna. I had a mixed salad and fish soup for tea at the hotel, 12€ and 35€ for the room to pay in the morning. I asked if I could leave my bags here so I could climb to Santuario del Acebo in the morning. I caught up with the diary, sorted my bags out and read some of my book and to sleep at 23.30
Altitude at Cangas 362 metres, trip distance 120.48 km, temperature at Cangas 20°C, ride time 9 hours 42 minutes, average speed 12.40 kph, top elevation 1345 metres, maximum speed 49.50kph, navigator 158.66, ODO 1 1042 km, ODO 2 1116 km, total distance 2158 km, trip altitude 2902 metres, maximum altitude 1315 metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 17%, total altitude 14466 metres.
Tuesday 7th August 2007 Cangas de Narcea to Belmonte
I left my bags at the main street hotel in the back of the restaurant and after a coffee and sweet croissant set off at 08.45, left then left again, ignoring the right turn called Santa Barbara and followed the bus route up to Santuario del Acebo, BIG number 389 – The Sanctuary of the Holly - a mistake because if I had taken a steep right up a narrow road that goes back a bit from the start of the bus route I would have arrived at Acebo by a shorter route, I came back down this way. Even if it is steep it’s a more interesting route and less traffic, wooded at first so in warm weather there’s shade. As it was I carried on along the wider road with a few sharp down sections along the route as the road negotiates adjoining hills to wind up. Eventually I reached the 10km marker at a crossroads and an indication of a road pass at 815 metres but this wasn’t where I wanted to be – then noticed the right turn marker at the crossroads indicating ‘Sanctuario de Acebo 8km’ Oh no! the first part of the following section is steep but it’s a good wide and smooth road to the top of Mount Cristobell then a steep down from there chased by dogs – but I was on a steep hill whizzing down. There are crossroads at the bottom, right for Cangas and the route I should have come up and straight on for Acebo. It was a long 3km to the top – reminiscent of Graining of Ail each in Northern Ireland but longer. The mist on the way up from these crossroads cleared at the top. I took a few photos (photos 6213 to 6218) and changed clothes for the cold descent. A priest was in the chapel praying so didn’t venture in any further than the doorway. The sanctuary reminded me of the one at the top of the Magdelensburg in Carinthia. The names of Tour of Spain bikers on the road on the way up (who’s Santi?) The name appears often on the way up.) I took the quickest way back down the mountain with Cangas hemmed in down below by the mountains around. It took me from 08.45 until 11.00 to reach the top and I was down the mountain and back in Cangas in ½ an hour, collecting my bags from the hotel at 11.30 then made my way south out of the town for the Leiteriegos Pass, 24 km up from Bimeda, 34km in all from Cangas. It took me ages to reach the top at 15.00. Villablain is the largest place on the way up but only a bar there. There’s nothing to speak of on the way up. At the hairpin are great views back down the valley and the long road leading up to the hairpin. I timed the kilometre markers and my speed at 6 minute intervals and was pushing myself at the end, there’s a ski-lift at the top on the right (photos 6219 to 6220). On with my helmet and steeply down to Caboalles then left (east) for my next pass. It’s a busy main street at Villablino and so many garages – every other shop is a garage. Up to Rioseuro and stopped for a drink and ice cream at a café then on into semi-desert country and left on to ‘Jericho Road’ (photo 6221) on the LE491, 2km to Vega de Viejos then 7km further up to Puerto de Somiedo, BIG number 390, an easy pass to climb from this side but the wind was directly against me, slowing me down.
I took photos (photos 6222, 6223) then up to the shanty village of El Puerto and over the gap reminiscent of the Gap of Mamore north side in Donegal. (photos 6224, 6225). It’s a great descent; long and plenty of sharp mountain outlines on both sides. On the way down to Pola is La Pirios on the mountain slope to the left from the upper hairpins. It was a good place to stop for interesting photos and I asked a Spaniard to take a photo of me. He had been busy clicking away taking photos of brown cows so was sure he wouldn’t mind taking a photo of me (photos 6226 to 6228). Further down at Pola there may have been a place to stay but I stupidly carried on hoping to find accommodation at La Riera but there is only a restaurant there. After Pola the road passes through a long interesting gorge and some road tunnels, down all the way (photos 6229, 6230). There was no accommodation to be had in La Riera so carried on further north. At Aginamestas I had a couple of orange drinks and crisps and asked there. I was directed on to Belmonte, the nearest town as there was no hope of anywhere nearer, that’s a further 16 kilometres. I arrived there at 20.00 after riding along a dusty road from road widening and workmen operating diggers removing road side rock faces, some temporary traffic lights en-route that delayed my gallop at the end of the day. At first there was no success with the hotel at Hotel Ara but they kindly rang through for me and got me a room at Hotel Romana. I had a meal there after a bath, ham and cheese pizza and ate the lot, a large beer and two more later in my room.
I phoned Ruth after tea. She was having a problem logging on to the internet but on the second call had fixed it by removing the cable from the jack and plugging in again. It was now 00.30 and time to sleep.
Trip distance 140 kilometres, height at Belmonte 182 metres, ride time 9 hours 52 minutes, average speed 14.40 kph, maximum speed 48 kph, navigator 298.60, ODO 1 1182km, ODO 2 1116km, overall distance total 2298 km, trip altitude 2648 metres, maximum altitude 1490 metres, top elevation 1710 metres, average climb 4%, maximum climb 19%, total altitude 15359 metres.
Wednesday 8th August 2007 Belmonte to Felgueras (Pola de Lena)
It was a great day today, the best yet. I achieved three passes, BIG’s 391, 392 and 395. The Puerta de la Cubilla from Pinas direction was interesting, I got up there by track from the west side. I was made up with road but the road wasn’t made up, it was rough in places. A ford had to be crossed and barbed wire removed – and put back again – to get to the final field before the road at Casa Mieras before the pass summit. I needed a trackometer to get up there.
I left Belmonte after breakfast at 08.45 and dodged the roadworks back tracking to La Riera but had one long delay south of Santiago village while a machine was drilling into rocks that crumbled down to the road followed by a massive clearing operation. I had a café con leche (1€) at La Riera then began the steady progress up the very steep Puerto de San Lorenzo, BIG number 391. The start and end sections of the pass are the steepest. In-between the passing through the villages was not to demanding but here there are downs as well as ups. I asked an old gent walking along with a donkey at Las Orderias if what I could see a long way up where there were cyclists resting at a fence, was this the top? He smiled and shook his head indicating it was a way past that. It was 4 kilometres further on. I took photos at the bare top (photos 6231 to 6233), no cafes or any other buildings but very warm. I descended a long way down to San Martin and bought some fruit and orange juice from a mini supermarket then took a right for the next pass on my list and came at first to Los Vegas. Amused I took a photo (photo 6234) then of course realised that the American name is Las Vegas. On up the pass as far as Paramo is easy enough but after that the twists and turns in wild country begins (photo 6235). It’s a gradual climb up to The Pass of the Windows, Puerta Ventana, BIG number 392, at 16.00 (photos 6236 to 6243) and down the mountain to San Emiliano at 17.00. I bought some more bananas and peaches from a shop here and asked if it was possible to ride over to Puerta de la Cubilla, BIG number 395. It was an easy ride along the dusty road to Pinas where the road ends and the track begins to the right of a house and traverses the mountainside, fairly easy going at first. The adventure begins! It took me about 1½ hours to clamber up there. The way became steeper after about 2 kilometres and eventually had to push the bike but it is never so steep to make it strenuous (photos 6244 to 6248). Passing inquisitive cows and nearer the top I crossed a ford of the stream going down to Pinos then a fence marked ‘privado’, a final obstacle of barbed wire but it’s a makeshift gate on a pole that can be moved but was hard to stretch it to put back in place, I was aware I was being watched by people sitting outside the Casa Mieres to the left and headed for this public house at the end of the road this side of the pass. I had a San Miguel beer in there – thought I deserved it - then biked the road the short distance to the top with hardly any uphill to cross.
Once over the cattle grid and through the gate posts to the summit marker I entered into a thick mist coming up from the other side. I was so glad that the climb up from Pinos was in perfect weather conditions. If coming up the other way I wouldn’t have ventured further than this. I took a couple of photos (photos 6249, 6250) then descended in the mist with brown cows and barking dogs for company. Passing through Tuiza I was clear of the mist here. There’s a hotel in Riosposo for the gorges between here and Tolledo but it’s down a hill to the right so passed on through Telledo then into Pola de Lena at 21.00. All the way from Reconcos to Campomanes there were road works, many heavy lorries passing. I wheeled past Cristina where I would come back to later. Over the steep hump over the railway and into Pola de Lena. There was only one hotel in the town near the bus station but no vacancies. I searched in vain so headed back along the roads for 3 kilometres to Cristina de Lena, a turn off at La Cobertorio rail station. I asked a gent who stopped when I flagged him down. He pointed out Cristina monastery on the hill and started to give me a potted history but it wasn’t that that I wanted but the 3-star hotel that I saw indicated on the road signs from Pola, the only hotel advertised. It was a steep climb to the hotel but even that was full. The girl at the reception directed me on a further two kilometres to the end of the road up a steep hill to Felgueras village and arrived there at 22.30. I was very tired when I reached Hotel Pte Casa Maria Felgueras (Lena 985491621). It was a great place to stay for the Angliru climb the following day as for sure there is no place to stay in Pola.
I received a warm welcome. It was good food and a really quiet place to stay miles from the main road. In the morning I paid 47€ for my accommodation, breakfast and an evening meal of steak and chips with a bottle of Rosada rosè wine and free liqueur. That night feeling a bit tipsy I soon went to sleep. The bike was left outside under cover but knew it was very safe. It’s a long way up from Cristina
Pola de Lena height 513 metres, temperature 15°C, trip distance 120.65 kilometres, trip altitude 3089 metres, maximum altitude 1669 metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 21%, total altitude 17559 metres, top elevation 1669 metres, ride time 10 hours 12 minutes, average speed 11.80 kph, maximum speed 50.50 kph, navigator 419.92, ODO 1 1182 km, ODO 2 1230 km, overall distance 2419 km
Thursday 9th August 2007 Felgueras (Pola de Lena) to Oviedo
Today started early with a long descent down to La Cobertoria rail station and along to the Puerto de Pajares, BIG number 396, Port of the Barns, at the start of the day without baggage as I left it at the station – 25 miles in 3 hours for that – now 10 BIG’s covered so far this tour. The climb starts from Buelles but not really steep until Pajares village was reached.
The rest of the day took in the Cobertoria and Angliru, BIG’s 394 and 393 and back to Pola for the train to Oviedo. I left my bags at Munon with an elderly couple for the Angliru climb and told them I would be gone 3 hours for the climb. They smiled and shoke their heads and he indicated with his hand 5 hours. I hoped not but when I returned it was with tail between my legs – 5 hours later, returning at 19.00 hours.
Back in Pola I got 300€ from a cash machine on my Tesco card and located the rail station as I could see problems later today after tackling the Cobertoria and Angliru, I wanted to be away from Pola and further east by later today.
I asked at a bank for the directions out to Cobertoria as I couldn’t find the road away from the town. Eventually I found it and was on a steep pot-holed narrow road winding its way upward past small houses and into a clearing. The weather was hot and after putting on plenty of cream I was slogging it up the pass gradually. I risked it and left my bags hidden under a pile of roofing tiles behind a hedge in a field just before Armada village. Now the trick was remembering just where that field is on the way down, and not speed past it. I just had to look out for a white garage in the hedge on the right. Armed with helmet, camera, money and passport it was an easier climb passing many roadworks. It appears that the road is being widened and bends made safer. There were a lot of roadworks near the top of La Cobertoria, BIG number 394, much widening of the top section. At the top and off to the right is a road leading up to Gamoniteiro mountain. The top of the pass was free from roadworks, crossroads there for the mountain and left for Las Llanas (Photos 6251 to 6255). I had to be careful on the way down with lorries and diggers working along the road. Drivers were courteous and careful though. I collected the pannier bags on the way down and shopped in Pola at Plus supermarket on the main road for orange juice and biscuits then rode north. Just out of the town is a turning to the left for Riosa under a railway bridge. A short stop here and eyed up the houses in Muňón Fondero just up the road. I made my way to the first house on the right where an elderly couple were sunning themselves. I asked if I could leave my bags with them so that I could have an easier ride up the L’Angliru, BIG number 393, knowing this would be steep. I told them an estimation of three hours for the climb and would be back for my bags at 17.00. The man laughed, shook his head and showed his hand to indicate five hours. Taking the turning to Riosa resulted in a long uphill to Muňón Cimero followed by an equally long downhill to La Vega and I wasn’t even on the L’Angliru climb yet!
The easiest way up would be to take the road to La Vega from Ribera de Ariba just north of Mieres as it’s just a gentle rise from that point. I had a couple of orange drinks from a bar at the foot of the L’Angliru climb then started off, passed the cyclists sign that indicated the steepness and words of warning then along the narrow road for 3 kilometres to Grandiella then up to a plateau where the road levelled out for a short section at a clearing (photos 6256 to 6258). Further up were serious roadworks. The width of the road had been recently tarred for approx two kilometres and was sticky in the hot sun. A man at a house on the right told me that there was no further roadworks on the way up but the damage had already been done. My chances of reaching the top were scuppered as my tyres were caked with a thick layer of tar well above the treads and loose stones from the road were embedded into the tyre. I was afraid of getting punctures and had no spare tubes with me, nor had I anything on me to remove the tar, everything was in my bags at the foot of the mountain. Descending would be dangerous with no tread. I couldn’t go on and was really angry with workmen who decide to tar the whole width of the road. At best they could have done half width for traffic and cyclists passing over. I noticed that motorists had the same problem and were crawling along the road with no tyre treads. I could have carried on and risked punctures with wheels sticking to the road slowing me down and making the climb harder, it would have been even worse when I came to the 25% climbs but the best option would be to attempt this maybe next year. With vivid memories of the puncture at the top of Eisenkapplerhűtte in Carinthia a couple of years ago followed by a long walk down the mountain I decided to turn back and kick the first workman I met! I didn’t want to walk 16 kilometres back to Pola. I found my first workman and complained to him! Well it made me feel better. He was brushing the road and laughed as he playfully brushed my tyres. To take a risk was tempting but I could pay a heavy price. Back in La Vega I used some sticks to get as much tar out of the tyre treads as I could then rode down to Ribera de Ariba and took a right for Pola de Lena along the busy main road from Oviedo. This is a dull road but easy and direct. I was hoping to find a RENFE or FEVE rail station to get back to Pola quicker but the first one I came across was at Figaredo, only 10 minutes by train from Pola so carried on cycling. I had some confusion at Vjo as the road I was on carries on for San Isidro and I didn’t want to go that way. I soon found out that I needed to take a right over the motorway then left for the quieter road to Pola where I collected my bags. The elderly couple there were watching out for me, they were kind enough to let me wash my hands to get rid of the tar. I offered them 5€ but the man said emphatically; “never!” I was very grateful and tried to show it – to encourage him with other cyclists who might ask him the same favour – including maybe me next year! I headed for the station, buying some drinks from the usual supermarket on the way – wine and beer. A train for Oviedo had just arrived and would leave again for Oviedo 15 minutes later at 20.00. The train arrived at 20.40 and I began the process of looking for a hotel again when I found out there were no more trains today heading east.
All the hotels near the station were full so reluctantly tool a 4 star hotel booking at 90€ - this night only! Later I went for a pizza at the same pizzeria as on my first night. It was now midnight and needed to sleep as I crawled back to the hotel.
Trip distance 88 kilometres, temperature at Oviedo 24.5°C, ride time 7 hours, average speed 12.40 kph, maximum speed 76.50kph, navigator 507.28, ODO 1 1270km, ODO 2 1236 km, overall distance 2507 kilometres, trip altitude 1968 metres, maximum altitude 1163 metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 16%, total altitude 17327 metres, top elevation 1710 metres
Friday 10th August 2007 Oviedo to Covadonga
Up and out at 07.30, no breakfast as I could eat at the station while waiting for a train. I bought my ticket for the FEVE train departing 09.05 to Santander but I go only as far as Arriondas, arriving at 10.38. I had plenty of coffee and croissants before boarding the train from a café outside the RENFE station. On the train I cleaned my tyres and removed all the tar and stones from the treads. When the ticket inspector came to check my tickets he gave me a ticking off for messing his carriage – I must admit the floor was a bit black and sticky from the extraction! At least I was travelling full fare – 8€ !
I just had enough time to complete the mucky job when I arrived in Arriondas.
Leaving the town I rode along the footpath 7 kilometres mainly downhill to Cangas de Onis. Entering the town I came first to the old bridge that widely spans the river with it’s large cross dangling centrally. This was worth a photo. From there into the town, touristy but an interesting place. I called at the Tourist Information Office to ask them to locate me a room for tonight, maybe two nights. I was glad that I did because there was no accommodation left in Cangas, it was weekend and people were here in droves. The office fixed me up with a room in Covadonga to the east as I was heading that way. I was there an hour but time well spent as I couldn’t have found a place as quick and I needed to leave my bags to ride my next pass. I biked along an easy road to Covadonga, found the hotel on the left on the approach to the village and dumped my bags. I signed in and was away again at 13.30 up the mountain to Lagos de Covadonga, BIG number 400. I arrived at 16.00 and had two hours there. The lakes of Covadonga are so interesting. I was followed up there by a road skater who was only slightly slower than me so this was an impetus for me to keep going in the 33°C heat. I was amazed a person could skate up a mountain road that distance. At first the way is wooded but at 700 metres the road breaks free of this and enters an area of bare white rock. I didn’t stop to take photos on the way up because of the steepness, I could do that on the way down later but I did stop to drink a lot as the heat was oppressive. There were plenty of coaches plying the route in both directions from Covadonga to the lakes, 12 kilometres. The drivers were expert, courteous and giving me plenty of space and hanging back waiting for me to negotiate corners, slowing down to give me space. I wish drivers at home were like this. After Mirador de Riesa I thought I was near the end of the road, how wrong I was! Following a bend to the right to the next rise then left for a great view ahead is a sharp downhill followed by another steep rise then up and over to a glorious view of the first lake and a mountain backdrop (photo 6259). Well above the first lake because from here it’s a long downhill again past the lake then up again to the viewpoint. I headed for this then up a track to reach the final high point where I asked a German tourist to macht mein foto (photo 6260).
I took more photos from the viewpoint (photos 6262 to 6265) then to the restaurant in front of the first lake for ½ litre of Galician beer, 3€ and chorizo sandwich 2.50€. More photos then along the road over to the second lake for the view and more photos (photo 6261) then about turn, up and over to the second lake then further up to where I first saw the lakes then back down, more photos on the way, photos 6266 to 6270, eventually to Covadonga at 18.30. I had a look at the basilica and a look around the small town, glad I had been up to the lakes first as there isn’t a great deal to see here except for the basilica Photo 6271) and the tunnel to the Madonna of Covadonga. I changed, washed and went out for a look inside the basilica and meditation tunnel. Back to the hotel and had a meal that I didn’t enjoy. The meat was raw despite my protesting and getting them to cook it more. I finished my diary, sorted my bags and went to bed at midnight.
Height at Covadonga 242 metres, trip distance 47 kilometres, ride time 4 hours 27 minutes, average speed 10.50 kph, maximum speed 52 kph, navigator 554.32, ODO 1270 metres, ODO 2 1283 metres, ODO total 2554 metres, trip altitude 1389 metres, maximum altitude 1135 metres, average climb 7%, maximum climb 20%, total altitude 18945 metres, top elevation 1669 metres.
Saturday 11th August 2007 Covadonga to Selaya
Up and ready to go at 07.30 but there was no one around and the hotel restaurant was caged off. I paid my 80€ bill last night and ate breakfast which was left in my room last night. I cleaned my bike and rode downhill to Cangas in the morning mist, a sign of a good day later. I took a left just before the bridge for the road along to San Ignacio, 21km along a scenic wooded route without any steep rises so was there in 1 ¼ hours for the climb to Collado los Bedules, BIG number 398. I left my bags hidden behind a hedge in a field after the village and made my way up in less than an hour with a short stop at Viego for a drink. I sped back down and fast back along the road to Cangas de Onis and Arriondas and the 10.38 train to Santander.
I reached Arriondas just in time, bought my ticket 8.75€ (£6) and the train rolled in – I was beginning to feel like a local! It was a long trip – nearly 4 hours, arriving in Santander at 14.15 then helped by station staff to board a train leaving at 15.13 from another platform stopping at San Salvador at 15.30, the nearest station for Pena Cabarga, BIG number 408. I took a right from the station, in between blocks of flats then made my way along the hot straight road to a turn off after 2 kilometres and right here with an indication for Pena Cabarga. There was a café on the left so had a café con leche and left my bags there and started the climb that rises immediately. It only took ¾ of an hour to reach the top, much easier with little weight to carry. At about halfway along the road that takes a clockwise circuit spiralling around the mountain I get a rest as the road levels out for about a kilometre, down slightly then a steeper gradient followed by hairpins. The last kilometre section to the top is extremely steep but within site of the red and white masts just below the top. There’s a great view of Santander from the observation tower and inland from the café looking the other way. I met an English family at the top who are on holiday a few weeks and have a casa inland, tripping around in their red GB Ford, they come from Devon. It’s 5.6km from the café at the foot of the mountain to the observation point, 620 metres height on my speedo but 589 metres on the Michelin map. I think my speedo needs adjusting. The gradient is consistent at 10% for the first 4km but 18% the final 1.6km. it’s a fairly wide smooth road. I took photos at the top and got the Devonian to take some of me (photos 6272 to 6279). At the café I had a bocadillo frankfurter 4.50€ and a couple of orange and vodka drinks, 4.00€ then followed the English people down the mountain. I collected my bags then left for San Salvador again and on to Saron and eventually Selaya. Heading inland it’s slightly up most of the way but never difficult. At a junction of roads at Soto there are two hotels to the left but I needed to go further to be as close as possible to the next group of BIG’s – 406 Puerto Estacas de Trueba, 407 Portillo de Lunada, Portillo de la Sia BIG number 409 then 405 Puerto del Escudo, 404 Puerto de la Palombera and 403 Alto Campoo and return east from that point.
At Selaya I tried one hotel but it was full, just as well I found out later because it would have been loud with people milling around the open area in front until after midnight. I met a cyclist and asked him and shown the best place to stay in the small town. It must be good I thought – they sell Guinness! Accommodation cost 45€ (£31) and paid upfront as they don’t open until 09.30 in the morning and I needed to be away well before then. I had a churros from a serving van at the side of the road and shopped at the supermarket for chocolate and drinks for tomorrow and some crisps and wine for this evening (4.00€). The wine was 0.65€ for a litre and was good! This was my tea together with fruit from earlier in the day. After phoning Ruth I set to cleaning my bike in the room, especially the tyres for any more tar then caught up with the diary. At 23.00 I watched a little TV, sorted bags and to sleep at 23.30
Height at Selaya 283 metres, trip distance 69.13 km, maximum speed 50.50 kph, ride time 4 hours 15 minutes, top elevation 1710 metres, average speed 16.36 kph, navigator 623.46, ODO 1 1339 km, ODO 2 1283 km, ODO total 2623 km, trip altitude 913 metres, maximum altitude 624 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 18%, total altitude 18241 metres.
Sunday 12th August 2007 Selaya to Reinosa
I was up too early for breakfast – apparently breakfast doesn’t start until 10.30 according to the notice on the door. That’s half way through the day! I was at the top of the first pass by then. Under cloudy conditions and muggy but no rain I reached Reado de Bragals. It wasn’t too difficult and was there in the first hour. It had been raining in the night, evident from the soggy fields but now although the clouds were low it was dry. I started off at 08.45, reached the top of the first pass at 09.45 and had breakfast. I bought a tuna roll and coffee from the pub and orange juice from the shop next door. After that I was ready for the Puerto Estacas de Trueba, BIG number 406, starting off at 10.30. This was the big one of the day. A Belgian cyclist rode with me. I wished later that I had asked his name, he just may have been a BIG member. He’s married to a Spanish girl and lives near Santander and said he bikes out this way then returns home to look after his children in the afternoon when his wife goes to work. The top of the pass was in mist but it was still an interesting climb, a long rise up the side of the valley to begin with, rising steadily on the east side. At the end of the valley is a series of hairpins. At Yera barking dogs could be heard and could hear these on the climb up from this point, especially when more cyclists passed later. The final climb was easy enough and the road was back and to a waterfall down the head of the valley that the road climbs. There is just a small building at the top on the left but was so misty I couldn’t see far. I took the usual photo (photo 6280) of the summit markers then out of the mist after a short way then a pleasant descent in farming country to La Trueba. I came to the left turn where the Portillo de Lunada, Big number 407, begins. A short downhill over a bridge and stream to start with, a bend to the right then gradually up that becomes steeper in less than a kilometre. I left my bags behind a large white rock to the left of the road and hid them by placing smaller rocks on top of them then set off in rural landscape through a village and into the mist again a kilometre from the top. This mist was as thick as on the previous one and couldn’t make out anything except the summit markers next to the road. There was no reason to stop there so after the usual photo (photo 6281) I did an about turn and descended out of the mist for great views across to the west and collected my bags. From there, back to La Trueba road junction and left to the next village for the Portillo de la Sia, BIG number 409. I asked at a restaurant if I could leave my bags there and come back for a meal later but they weren’t interested, not being able to make myself understood, their loss. I rode a short distance and left my bags behind a large tree on the right, just before a ruined building. It was a 7 kilometres grind to the top at 15.30 and again nothing to see at the top in the mist again. Before the top there is a line of 12 wind turbines whooshing the air and could be heard for miles. I could hear the noise for most of the way up.
There is a remembrance stone or cover at the top on the Cantabria side, left of the road coming up from the south and just over the top. I didn’t understand the Spanish so must look up details on the internet later. Back down the pass again and collected my bags from behind the tree at 16.00 and rode as fast as possible from Espinosa (not worth stopping to see), mainly downhill through Petros to Soncillo. There was a difficult hill to climb between Saitelices and Argomendo then a swift downhill to the busy national road and later a turn to the right then dry along to the junction of the Reinosa road to the right. I took in the easy climb from the south up to Puerto del Escudo, BIG number 405 – only 4km and 122 metres up in ½ an hour and back again for the turning to Reinosa and alongside the southern edge of the large lake, arriving in Reinosa at 20.00. I pushed myself to get there for that time to ensure I get accommodation and before dark. I had a scout around town for a hotel but came back to where I entered as this was the only hotel I could find, perhaps the only one and 3 star. Accommodation cost 50€ and breakfast 7.50€. I didn’t think that was too bad for what I had, Hobson’s choice really and didn’t want to sleep on the street again. I had steak and chips for tea followed by fruit dessert, all very good. I was far too tired to go discovering around the town, having seen it briefly before looking for a hotel. I went to bed at midnight.
Height at Reinosa 875 metres, trip distance 134 km, temperature 20°C, ride time 9 hours 31 minutes, top elevation 1669 metres, average speed 14 kph, maximum speed 44 kph, navigator 757.43, ODO 1 1339 metes, ODO 2 1417 metres, ODO total 2757 km, trip altitude 2843 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 11%, maximum altitude1326 metres, total altitude 21788 metres.
Monday 13th August 2007 Reinosa to Bilbao
It was very warm this morning. I chatted to two English motorcyclists as we all prepared to leave the hotel. They told me there had been flash floods in Valencia yesterday evening. This area had little rain, just drizzle along the 24 kilometres heading west to Reinosa and thick cloud on the passes. Today though was a complete contrast. It was easy going all the way to La Lomba where the climb to Alto Campoo, BIG number 403 begins. I left my bags near the 19km marker and behind a bush a kilometre past the viewpoint looking across to Reinosa. I had a rest for a while before that at the mirador and took a couple of photos. I had a lie-in this morning and after a long breakfast of flavoured rolls and plenty of coffee I set off at 09.30 arriving at Alto Campoo at 12.00. I had a beer there to celebrate the small conquest then took the higher road 5 kilometres to the viewpoint above Alto Campoo from Branavieja. Back down at a fast pace in half an hour then took a right at the roundabout for Polombera, BIG number 404. It took me 1½ hours to reach the top, fairly easy going. I could see most of the road to the top from 4 kilometres down on the south side of the pass so knew what was to come. There was no great difficulty but could see why the pass is classed as a BIG because the climb up from the north side is far more strenuous. The north side falls for about 30 kilometres. I took the usual photos at the top (photos 6282 to 6285). There is nothing much there, no buildings and barren. The north side of the pass is more lush and green. The road passes through dense woods and river scenery until the deer viewpoint about ¾ of the way down (photos 6286 to 6291). Near Teran the descent ends but still a slight drop among farmland. There is an abrupt left turn for Cabezon and once there waited ½ an hour for the train to Santander (photo 6292), arriving at 18.00 then at 19.00 another train arriving in the dark at Bilbao at 21.45, drunk in charge of a bottle of sherry. I had tea on Santander station, 2 eggs, burgers, sausages and chips for 6€ with a beer.
Trip distance 108.35 km, trip altitude 1336 metres, maximum altitude 1666 metres, top elevation 1710 metres, average climb 4%, maximum climb 11%, total altitude 19573 metres, height 100 metres at Bilbao, temperature 23°C, ride time 6 hours 34 minutes, average speed 16.40 kph, maximum speed 129 kph, ODO 1 1441 metres, ODO 2 1413 metres, overall distance 2865 metres, navigator 865.73
Tuesday 14th August 2007 Bilbao to Altsasu
The hotel room was so good – so had a long lie in. After a good breakfast I was on the road at 09.30 – but not getting very far. I was lost in the city streets and didn’t know how to get out, let alone find the road heading out towards San Sebastian. I was struggling with the city map at a river bridge near Abando Station and asked a man standing there if he could direct me on to the San Sebastian road. He was Spanish but spoke good English, introduced himself as Michael, and told me to walk with the bike over the footbridge nearby then take a right, following the river but again to walk with the bike as I would be going against a one-way system and as I could see the road was very busy. I took his advice and mounted further along when it was two-way. His directions were good and I continued along but the road is like a roller coaster with flyovers and dips under road bridges. This is the N634 and stayed on this as far as Durango. It was not as traffic-heavy once I left Bilbao suburbs. All the same I was glad to be off the main road at Durango and took a short stop to eat yoghurt and biscuits bought from a supermarket and filled my flasks with orange juice ready for the steep rise up to Puerto de Urkiola, BIG number 411. It’s easy going as far as Maňaria but on passing a cement works just after the climb then begins, and very steep. There are a couple of hairpins then a steep straight section between the trees. I really need tan cream so stopped to plaster myself then continued. It was harder with the full weight to carry but no choice there as I needed to get up and over the Urkiola. The middle section is not as steep but there is a steep 12% gradient to the top. The top of the pass isn’t spectacular and there is no summit marker for all the effort. There is a hotel on the right side of the road (west) (photo 6293) where I got an ice coke from a vending machine (1.20€) and crossed the road to have a look at the large church the crowns the top and round it as far as the road goes. This marks the real summit at 730 metres. There are footpaths leading away from the church at the rear heading out to the east. The woody descent over the pass only goes as far as Otxandio, by passed on the left. From there to Legutiano, plenty of ups and downs along the road that follows the side of a large lake, Urrúnaga on the right. I was beginning to feel very tired as the wind was against me. At Legutiano, on a rise to the left, the road joins with the busier N240 road coming from Bilbao and continued on now along a brand new but quiet dual carriageway to Miňano Mayor where the road becomes progressively busier the nearer I got to Vitoria Gasteiz. I could only stay on this road as far as Miňano Mayor as bikes weren’t allowed on the section into Vitoria Gasteiz so I flagged down a motorist for advice and told to take the parallel service road on the right but this ended just short of the town at a military base, but I was able to push the bike about 50 yards back to the forbidden road and walk over the motorway junction – dangerous- to the edge of the town where the road becomes bike-friendly again. It was a hot, sunny day as I rode into Vitoria Gasteiz (photos 6294, 6295) now along quiet streets in search of the rail station.
My idea was to get a train as soon as possible to Pamplona for a bash at the Higa de Monreal, BIG number 418 then find accommodation in Pamplona but like all good plans it wasn’t to be as there was no train for a couple of hours. It was 36°C and feeling it. I needed a drink and bought a large melon slice, peaches and orange juice. I devoured the melon by a tall metal figure in an open area in the town where there are seats, and sunbathed for a while. I had a long wait for a RENFE train to San Sebastian at 19.00 but decided to get off at Altsasu for 3 BIG’s to attempt tomorrow and BIG number 4198 at the end of the day. There are no trains for Pamplona from Vitoria, a disappointment. At Altsasu it felt like a station in the Wild West with a local sleeping under his wide brimmed hat in the shimmering heat. I began searching for somewhere to stay. The first place I saw over the motorway turned out to be a deserted hotel at the base of the Urbasa. At another place I was directed to a building on the edge of the town with the word ‘habitacion’ on large vertical board outside. I rang the bell and was accepted at 20€ for the night, the cheapest yet so I could afford a good big meal tonight! At the only restaurant in town I enjoyed steak, chips and a mixed side salad and 2 beers all for 18€ so this place was a bargain! From there back to my digs, caught up with the diary, had a read of my book and to sleep at 23.00.
Height at Altsasu 522 metres, trip distance 76.85 km, ride time 6 hours 8 minutes, average speed 12.40 kph, maximum speed 75 kph, navigator 942.64, ODO 1 1447 km, ODO 2 1494 km, ODO total 2942 km, trip altitude 1026 metres, maximum altitude 778 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 26%, total altitude 22815 metres, top elevation 1669 metres.
Wednesday 15th August 2007 Altsasu to Lekumberri
I left ‘Habitacion’ at 08.45 with one light bag with essentials and their key, but they held my other bag as ransom if I made off with their key. They knew I wouldn’t do that so I agreed I would be back here in about three hours. It was warm already as I made my way past the deserted hotel by the motorway and up the twisting slopes of the minor road that joins with the road coming up from Olazti in a kilometre, although that is shown as the minor road on the map but is in fact the wider and busier road. The way up from Altsasu is grass so there are great views on the way up, especially of the mountain range to the west. There are a series of tough hairpins as the valley closes in away from the grass land and into an area of white rocks that soon becomes a rock wall where the road negotiates steep turns until it reaches a ridge. Once here after about 8 kilometres the way pans out into the Urbasa National Park where there are no more steep rises, just gentle ups and downs among the birch trees then after about 4 kilometres a gentle short rise to the road summit markers of Puerto de Urbasa, BIG number 416, reached at 10.30, 10 kilometres further. I took some photos at the top. There’s a small café on the right among the trees three kilometres before the pass, near a chapel but I didn’t stop. It’s gentle down at first, hardly noticeable, on the way over to Estella but I turned back just as the real descent began and retraced my route back to Altsasu. I followed other cyclists back down the mountain and was back to collect my other bag and return the key at 11.00.
From there along the valley road to Urdiain where I sorted my bags out to balance the weight now that I had to carry the two. There was a cycle race doing the circuit from Altsasu to Etxarri-Aranatz and back (photos 6296, 6297). I was passed twice while they were racing the circuit. I waited then when coast was clear continued on to Etxarri-Aranatz, a small place with a café but not worth a stop, then right at the roundabout for Lizarraga, arriving at 12.30. I left my bags there, and most of the weight being carried. This time I left them with a friendly barman who speaks English. I had a couple of orange drinks, 3€. He understood what I wanted to do and put the bags in a secure lock up. It’s 8 kilometres from here to Mirador del Puerto de Lizarraga, BIG number 417 and arrived there at 14.15, 1 ¼ hours climbing. The top is in a tunnel through the mountain. It’s similar to the Roaches except for white rock, but much higher of course! There’s a café at the top just through the tunnel on the left. It’s barren on the south side but didn’t explore further, I turned back through the tunnel and stopped to take in the view from the mirador on the left, stone steps at the side of the road leading up to a metal cross on a balcony. (photos 6298, 6299) From here back down the pass and collected my bags at 14.45. The bar was alive with loads of people now, and great food smells. I was tempted to stay but continued on. Back down to the main road at Etxarri-Aranatz I took the right turn at the roundabout for Huerte Araquil at 15.15. This was a mistake as I need the lane signposted for Pamplona to reach the next pass.
The village, though, is an interesting white walled building place, sleepy and a quaint church. The only people I saw were two 20 something walkers thirstily drinking water in the heat of the day. From there a further kilometre then saw two turnings to the right. The second turning is the one I needed for the very steep ascent to Santuario de San Migel Araiar on the Hachueta, BIG number 414. The signpost indication is for San Migel de Araiar. It’s a white stone ribbed road all the way up, extremely steep and made worse by the sunlight bouncing back off the white road giving a lot of glare. I was so glad to have my sunglasses. The way to the top is approx 5 kilometres but at least it got a little less steep further up, except the end section as I approached the top. The only let up is where the road crosses a stream and is levels for about 200 metres and being by the stream there are trees – the only place on the way up where there is shade. The very last part of the road performs a clockwise circuit of the hill at the top then right on to the main route up to the monastery and café. I had a look inside the church and down to the café and bought a cold beer 1.50€. I finished off crisps with half a bottle of red wine that somebody left. I took a few photos (photos 6300, 6301) and was just about to make my way down the mountain along the main route when the weather suddenly turned nasty. The cloud came down very quickly and obliterated the view from the café. It became cooler and it began to rain. Everybody scattered for their cars or took shelter in the café as the change happened very quickly.
From lazily sitting on the wall soaking up the sun with wine I was soon in my rainwear and heading for trees along the road and down the mountain as fast as I could. The rain eased further down but still raining lightly as I entered Lekumberri 21 kilometres later. I wanted to take the N15 road along the valley to Pamplona but only motorists are allowed along this route. The only possible route is up the road a little way back towards Hachueta then turn off to the left (south east) through small villages to emerge on a main road entering Pamplona. I would have a go at that tomorrow. For now I had an early finish and found a hotel as I didn’t want to continue in the rain. It would have been dark before reaching Pamplona if I had continued. The hotel set me back 95€ but included breakfast and dinner. I had a bath and caught up with the diary while waiting for the seat meal that commenced at 21.00. Also included in the price was a bottle of wine. I had soup, then a salad followed by steak, potatoes and vegetables then cheese and biscuits so was full and content. I phoned Ruth, had a read then to sleep at 23.00
Ride time 7 hours 52 minutes, trip distance 117.71 km, average speed 14.80 kph, maximum speed 53.50 kph, navigator 59.85, ODO 1 1565 km, ODO 2 1494 km, ODO total 3059 km, trip altitude 2068 metres, maximum altitude 1278 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 20%, (south side of Hachueta), total altitude 21645 metres, top elevation 1710 metres.
Thursday 16th August 2007 Lekumberri to Deba (on the coast)
After an early breakfast I was away at 07.30 and along the Hachueta road a short way then took a left by a stream and along a lane that leads through Oderiz, a short climb then down to Irurtzun for the direct main road into Pamplona, through the town and past the airport for a 11km dead straight road to Monreal for a sharp 5 kilometre rise to Higa de Monreal, BIG number 418. I didn’t stop in Pamplona as I wanted to reach the climb and then double back to reach San Sebastian later. The climb is similar to the Pena Cabarga for distance and gradient and was up there in an hour.
I counted 18 hairpins as the road ascends in an anti-clockwise direction for approx 600 metres up the white conical mountain to the red and white mast perched at the top. Back through Pamplona but didn’t want to spend any time here and kept up a good speed back to Irurtzen and back over the short climb to Oderiz and back to Lekumberri at 11.00. The weather became overcast a few kilometres north on a short rise up to Puerto de Aspirotz, reached through a narrow gap between hills. From there it’s downhill all the way, a glorious descent as far as Tolosa. The steeper descent past white cliffs is over on reaching Betula. At that point the valley opens out more, and is more gentle, passing through farmland. The weather was overcast all the way but didn’t rain until I reached Tolosa. I took a minor road to the left of the river out of Tolosa, a town hemmed in by the hills around it. I reached Anoeta but then the road spilled out on to the motorway. There was no other way. I asked a Spaniard if there was another road but he indicated I should use the motorway! I told him that it was illegal but he pointed to his eye to say “what the eye of the police doesn’t see – you can do it!” I was very reluctant to do it and turned back but he shouted after me and pointed me back to the motorway! I wanted a second opinion on this and flagged down a cyclist – he led me to the motorway and wished me a happy trip! Oh, what the heck! There was no other way so I blatantly broke the law and cycled in lashing rain along the motorway hard shoulder with my stomach in my mouth! I only had to go about two kilometres to a petrol station before a turn-off. The mechanic there drew me a sketch and told me to take the turn-off in 300 metres and follow the road for 200 metres to Villabonna, take a left under the motorway then right bend past a church into the small town then left over a river bridge, indication for Adona and up the hill to the church then follow the signs for Andoain. There was some shooting going on up here. I hoped it wasn’t the police after me! Steeply down to Andoain to join a long traffic queue crawling through the town past town centre roadworks. I asked a workman the way to Urnita, the next village on the way heading for San Sebastian. The road is more or less straight but with plenty of switchbacks all the way to Astiggarraga. There is a road for Lezo from here but steeply uphill. I decided to carry on for San Sebastian, past more confusing roadworks and into the city, stopping at a garage to freshen up then along the footpath rather than squeeze between traffic and kerb.
I asked the way to Lezo and was directed to the 3rd bridge by the seafront, take aright then follow this road to Lezo. I found this easier on the way back from Lezo later as I veered off too far inland but direct on the way back. Past the busy port into Lezo, took a right then right again on much quieter road and I was at the foot of the Alto de Jaizkibel, BIG number 412 at 14.30 for an 8 kilometre climb to the top of the pass with great views of the sea to the left. It’s steep at first for about 4 kilometres, then a slight down by a paintball and café building on the left followed by a less steep section from where the masts at the top can be seen along the ridge. It was raining slightly but this cleared at the top. There are great views down to the cliffs to the sea and of San Sebastian in the distance past a point of land sticking out, reminiscent of the Great Orme with plenty of imagination! The Michelin map indicates the height at the top to be 446 metres but the summit marker indicates it as higher. I reached there at 15.45, just past the 8km marker and a bend to the right, and stayed for ½ an hour taking photos (photos 6302 to 6306) and back into St Sebastian at the seafront at 17.00 where there are giant body sculptures along the promenade. (photos 6307, 6308). I asked a policeman the way to Euska station and he promptly brought out a town map from his motorbike pannier and gave it to me, indicating the route to the station. There are one-way streets in the town between there and the station so rode on the pavement hoping I didn’t meet another policeman.
I bought my ticket and boarded the 17.47 Bilbao train as far as Deba, arriving at 18.23. I found a hotel right away. (photos 6309 to 6311). That evening there were Euska celebrations in full swing around the town; larger than life characters dancing the streets, lasso dancing and a brass band (photos 6312 and 6313). I had a churros, two beers and small pizzas by the sea café, followed by a salad later. I phoned Ruth at 23.00 then went to sleep.
Ride time 6 hours 22 minutes, trip distance 97 km, height at Deba 6 metres, temperature 28°C (at 23.30), average speed 13.50 kph, maximum speed 46.50 kph, trip altitude 8309 metres, navigator 14295, ODO 1 1565 km, ODO 2 1577 km, ODO total 3142 km, total altitude 23765 metres, average climb 4%, maximum climb 14%, top elevation 1669 metres.
Friday 17th August 2007 Deba to Bermeo (on the coast)
Today’s cycling was split into two halves, the morning to tackle a BIG south of Deba and in the afternoon cycle the coast to Bermeo. I took ½ an hour to reach Elgoibar inland from Deba, an easy ride with no climbing along the valley and little traffic (photo 6314). Crossing the road through the village I began climbing towards the Alto de Azurki, BIG number 413. The trip to the top took me 1½ hours, until 12.00. I discovered later that the more interesting approach to the top would have been the climb from south of Deba through the woods past Lastur and Ugarteberri. This way is more narrow, forested and quiet, but steeper. I set off from Elgoibar following the road indicated for Azkarate but after the first kilometre road sign indications are for Azkoita and Azpeitia to the left and San Kristobal to the right. I took a left and passed over the Alto de Azkarate, 410 metres (photo 6315) then almost immediately left for Madaiaga on the edge of the hill then a long unmarked forest road to the top passing through Madaiaga perched high on a ridge with a slope to the right, ahead is the well forested hill where the High of Azurki hides, Alto de Azurki, BIG number 413 (Photos 6316 to 6321). There’s no marking at the top, just a lay-by on the right for walkers. The area is thick with ferns all around. From there an almost imperceptible drop among the trees, a few bends then over a cattle grid into a clearing where the steep descent starts. The road twists down to the left past some farmhouses and is very narrow. There is a turning for Lastur, 1.5km but I carried on, uphill a short way until I reached a junction where the left turn in front of a house indicates Itzair. From there it’s a long descent down to Itzair overlooking the coast then 3 kilometres along the coast road with great views and photos taken heading back for Deba, always in sight ahead (photos 6322 to 6325). I called back at the hotel to collect my panniers and was offered a shower, gladly accepted. Down in the basement there is a gym and swimming pool, sauna and solarium so I helped myself. I had lunch later at the beach café; two small pizzas and two beers for 6.30€. I caught up with the diary to this point before deciding my next move. It was very warm so sunbathed on the beach for a while, dozed off and ready to go again at 15.00 along the coast road.
For the first part of the day: ride time 2 hours 49 minutes, average speed 14.70 kph, maximum speed 43.50 kph, trip distance 41.65 kilometres, navigator 184.60, ODO 1 1607 kilometres, ODO 2 1577 kilometres, ODO total 3184 kilometres, trip altitude 847 metres, maximum altitude 653 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 13%, total altitude 22493 metres, top elevation 1710 metres, from 10.00 to 13.00
Cycling along the coastal route the first place is Mutriku. The road along here is very scenic and reminds me of Cyprus. Down to the small port of white buildings then up and over the headland to Ondarroa. A slight resemblance to Venice on approach with a bridge span over a river and tall buildings with shutters – however too much washing hanging from the windows on the right to match the class of Venice! I continued on up and followed signs for Lekeitio. I failed to see the next sign that indicated Lekeitio to the right and continued on, along the road to Durango. It was only when I reached Berriatua, realising this road was far too hilly for the coastal route and seeing tracts of country on both sides, that I turned back. Just before Ondarroa I noticed the way was over the river bridge then right and up through the town. The sign for Lekeito had been covered up on the other side. This was weird, the road was closed and there was no traffic coming into the place from the other side of the town at the top of the hill, even though I was now on the coast road. The reason being there were Euska national festival celebrations going on throughout the town and people were wandering the streets as I threaded my way uphill through the crowds. The way along the cornice was very peaceful but I was glad when I saw other cyclists going the other way and after a kilometre or so there were cars. I was beginning to think that the road had been closed from the other end and would have trouble getting into Lekeitio. There are plenty of ups and downs along this road as the road goes over headlands. If I was in France this cornice would be a major tourist attraction with fast cars and sightseers. The road became higher the further I went but eventually there is a long descent into Lekeitio. I bought mango and yoghurt drink from a supermarket 2.30€ then rode down to the port.
There was an old Spanish galleon with rigging in port, probably permanent for the tourists. Francis Drake didn’t sink them all then. At the harbour is a church with flying buttresses then behind that the crossroads in the centre of town with the Gurnika road leading off from there. I rode along here, uphill sharply to Gardata then a second steep section up to Barainka and again up to Basetxeta through wooded countryside then a long sweep down followed by another long down from Zeleieta all the way to Gurnika. The way to Gurnika is further than I thought, 23 kilometres. Gurnika has a tragic history. It was completely rebuilt after the Second World War after the German Legion Condor bombed the town in 1940 killing 2000 people because it was a communist stronghold, the cruelty of war. There are no buildings earlier than 1940 standing in the town. I spotted the Eusko train station at the start of the road along the estuary to Bermeo; this is on the route from Bilbao to Bermeo. It was tempting to take a train but thought the 14 kilometres along the estuary should be easy enough to bike but soon discovered there are plenty of ups and downs along the way. I left Gurnika at 19.10 and arrived in Bermeo at 20.00, trying my best to keep to that time. At least the section from Murueta to Bermeo is all downhill.
I cycled along a cyclepath that goes the whole way from Gurnika to Bermeo on the right hand side, orange and buff markings (photo 6326). As soon as I arrived in Bermeo I looked for accommodation but couldn’t even find a hotel – or any indication of B&B or local pub accommodation. I could hardly believe that a coastal resort has nowhere to stay. Maybe all the tourists here are in private houses. I asked a Spanish lady running a gift shop and she was very helpful and rang round the area for me but even then there were only a few places to stay in Bermeo and Murueta – and they were all full. I asked if there were any restaurants open until early in the morning (memories of Bergamo) so that I could relax after a good meal and the final hours before dawn find a quiet bench. I was told to try the Jokin by the side of the church as it overlooks the harbour and there is a veranda there where I could sit peacefully until daylight. Before then I took some photos of the harbour (photos 6327 to 6330). I asked at the restaurant when they closed. I was told it was officially at 23.00 but I could stay longer – I hoped it was a lot longer! My bike was locked outside to the veranda pillars; I had on my valuables on me. I enjoyed fish soup (8€) followed by steak, fois gras, chips (20€) and a large beer (3€) and bread together with a bottle of Vina Tondinia Reserva Tinto Rioja 1998 (20€), total 51€, cheaper than a hotel for the night! I kept my bike company at 01.00 when I got chucked out of the restaurant and slept on the veranda overlooking the harbour. I put all clothes on from the panniers and slept until dawn, woken by fishermen taking their boats out.
Saturday 18th August 2007 Bermeo to Bilbao – Orduňa - Bilbao
It was cold in the early hours – dew on the saddle. I slept on a table but not very well as somewhere over the harbour there was a dog barking all night. Fishing boats started leaving at about 05.00 so I got moving shortly after that.
I bought a Euskotren ticket (2.50€) for the first train to Bilbao at 06.18 and left my bike in the ticket office below ground level while I went for a coffees and croissant to warm up. The bike was safe, the man in the ticket office volunteered to keep his eye on it. I enjoyed the train trip to Bilbao back along the estuary to Amorebieta and back along the route where I was last Tuesday, arriving in Bilbao Atxuri station at 07.35. From there I found my way to Abando station with the town map then along Navarra and Hugo roads to the Jesus monument then left and first right to reach Hotel Hisperia where I left my bike bag on the first day. I passed the same place where I met Michael, without him I would have had a real problem cycling out of Bilbao! Back to the pre-booked hotel and relieved to be here – I wanted to rest a while after having very little sleep last night. The man at reception recognised me. I asked him if there were buses to the airport for tomorrow and if I could put my bike in the bus. He told me they leave every twenty minutes from the bus station nearby and cost 1.25€, the bike goes free. The bus goes from place number 29 near the bus station entrance by the stadium. I had the room from 10.00 as the previous occupant had booked out. I had a bath and two hours sleep. I placed a notice on the door, ‘silencio hermani’ – silence please. Later I sorted my bags. I was woken up by parked coaches outside with engines running, this became an annoyance. I packed one bag for what I needed for the rest of the day and toyed with the idea of attempting one last gasp pass south of Bilboa, the Puerto de Orduňa BIG number 410. I rode out past Basurto station where boarded the train for Oviedo on my first day here and came to RENFE station Ametzole past the bus station. I enquired how to get to Orduňa. The woman at the ticket office didn’t speak English but pointed out on the train map how to get to there. I had to change at Abando station. I bought my ticket, 2.30€ single fare and went for the 13.50 train from Ametzole and from Bilbao Abando at 14.35, arriving in Orduňa at 15.23. The first 10 kilometres along the route pass through Bilbao suburbs then countryside to reach the end of the line. A friendly driver saw me looking at the map and asked if I was lost. I indicated I wanted to get to the puerto. He told me it was very steep but that’s why I was here! He said it was 10 kilometres to the pass and was laughing when I said I wanted to get up and come back the same way and not go over to Miranda de Ebro. He told me to follow him and would take me to the road to the pass. It was a very warm day but I was cycling light – so light that I forgot to bring my helmet and warmer top for the descent but I wasn’t going to go back now. I left Orduňa at 15.45 and passed through Tertanga at the foot of the pass. It took me an hour to get up there through bush land and passing a well situated water well on the right halfway up.
The white rock wall ahead seemed impossible to get up but the road takes it on in a series of bends then one long gradual climb, a turn to the right then over the top. The top itself is about a kilometre further over the width of the mountain ridge, an easy final section to the road pass marker by a TV mast in a field, I was at the top of the pass at 16.45 after 10 kilometres, took a few photos then back down in ½ an hour at 17.15 and boarded the 17.26 train back to Bilbao arriving at 18.12. So ends all the major passes for this year. From Abando station I made my way back to the hotel but there were street celebrations happening around the centre. I went back to join in with this later and asked at the hotel what it was all about. I was told it was the most important week of the year in Bilbao for Euska celebrations. I’d already found that out in other places over the last couple of days! The receptionist gave me brochures and a blue necktie to wear and blend in with the locals! I disassembled my bike and bagged it ready for the return trip tomorrow outside the hotel main entrance; this was a mucky job as I taped the chain to the chain stay and tied straps over chainwheel and gear jockeys. The porter gave me paper towels and grease remover later. I took off the pedals but didn’t turn the bars, just turned the forks parallel with the frame as the whole thing just fits inside the bag. I had a bath and a rest for a while and walked back to the centre at 20.00 and joined the crowds wearing the necktie that I asked the receptionist to tie. There was music, dancing and food all along the waterfront. I had a chicken sandwich and large beer, 4.00€ and a doner kebab, 4.0€.
On the way back along Hugo fireworks started but I wasn’t walking back to the river. They could be seen clearly enough above the buildings in one of the main squares on my way back to the hotel. It was so thoughtful of the town to send me home in style with a great display, back at the hotel at 10.30 when the fireworks finished. I tried to sleep that night but there was a concert happening in the stadium opposite the hotel. Fortunately it finished at 02.30 so I bought a couple of whiskies from the mini-bar to help me sleep and finally nodded off at 03.00.
Sunday 19th August 2007 Bilbao to Holmes Chapel
I was woken up with a blaze from the TV screen at 07.15, an effective way of waking guests. I expected a telephone call but not that and had to jump out of bed to switch it off. I was so glad I took the bike to pieces and bagged it yesterday as I wasn’t up to doing it this morning with so little sleep. I had breakfast at 07.30 and checked out soon after. I had plenty to eat and stashed away fruit, yoghurts and small jars of marmalade and honey in my bags! Iris enjoyed one of those honeys a week later! It was raining so really didn’t want to stay here any longer. The weather wasn’t inviting to cycle anymore. I borrowed the hotel trolley to push the bagged bike and panniers to the coach terminal just up the road. I promised to bring the trolley back to the hotel but after loading the bike and bags on the coach I found out that it was due to leave for the airport very soon. I told the driver I needed to take the trolley to the left luggage office and would be 5 minutes. I left it there with the intention of ringing the hotel from the airport for then to collect. The coach left at 08.35 and took ½ an hour to reach the airport. The weather was very different than on my first day when I had a hot ride from the airport into Bilbao. This was much more civilised! I didn’t want to go over that hill again with a full load. I asked at airport information if they would contact the hotel to ask them to collect the trolley, which they did so any anxiety about having to pay for a missing trolley was relieved. I checked in my bike and bags and everything was hassle free. The bike weighed in at 18 kilograms and the bags at 19 kilograms total. Once through customs I bought some chocolates and a couple of magnets for Ruth (11€ and 3.50€ x 2) and 6.50€ for a fan. There was no duty free but I splashed on plenty of smellies! The EasyJet flight left on time. Looking below Bilbao was really overcast but once airborne over the sea the sky was clear. I was sitting next to a French girl and her daughter but they didn’t want to talk. The plane landed at Stansted on time, train shuttle then to the arrivals area but it took a while to get out of the airport waiting for the luggage to appear on the carousel. Finally away from the airport at 12.00 and went for the Stansted Express departure at 12.30 for Liverpool Street but then found out that the Victoria Line was closed for engineering work so couldn’t change at Tottenham Hale for Euston. I was faced with the daunting prospect of lugging my bagged bike and panniers from Liverpool Street to Euston on the Tube. I queued up for my ticket at Liverpool Street keeping a careful watch on them. I told a member of staff they were mine and please not call in the bomb disposal team! With the heightened security due to bomb alerts this was a real problem. On the other hand if I had re-assembled the bike I wouldn’t have been able to board the Stansted Express with it. Shortly after I struggled down the corridors to the platform for the Bakerloo Line train to Euston Square then slowly made my way to Euston from there. The next train for Crewe was at 15.01.
I asked at Customer Services opposite platform 13 entrance for assistance in boarding the train because I knew that I would have to walk the full length of the platform to the front of the train – also the train departed from platform 3 and would have to lug the weight the width of the concourse passing through a crowd of people. A motor shuttle service was provided and I told the driver that the last time I had a similar ride was when I was being taken to the hospital operating theatre….. I read plenty of my book ‘Glorious Appearing’ in the quiet coach on the train with the bike in the guards van in front. The conductor knew I had the bike and at Stafford I reminded him that I needed to get out at Crewe as he would have to unlock the van from the outside. At Crewe he never arrived and went to complain when he was announcing the next station as Warrington. He told me he forgot and would let me out at Warrington. I wasn’t taking any chances and carried the bike then the panniers the length of the coach to the nearest door where I could get out. This time he appeared but I couldn’t take the risk of going on to Preston! The train arrived in Warrington at 17.44 and I was helped over the bridge by station staff and caught the 17.53 train back to Crewe. This time it was standing room only and my bike was jam packed among people and luggage. The guard told me to push it back further but I ignored him as I was determined to get off at Crewe! The train arrived in Crewe at 18.12 just in time to catch the 18.27 train to Holmes Chapel at 18.38. There was one huger problem though as I had rung Ruth from Euston to say I would be in Crewe at 15.00 and she had offered to collect me. I was home 1½ hours after that and naturally she was none too pleased!
Final reading:
Distance 152.51 kilometres (less 20 kilometres yesterday afternoon) Ride time 10 hours 55 minutes (less 2 hours yesterday afternoon), average speed 13.90 kph, maximum speed 58 kph, navigator 295.46, ODO 1 1717 kilometres, ODO 2 1577 kilometres, overall distance 3295 kilometres (started the tour at 1895 kilometres)
Total distance covered on the tour 1400 kilometres or 875 miles, trip altitude 2614 metres, maximum altitude 943 metres (pass number 410), average climb 4%, maximum climb 13%, total altitude 24259 metres. At the start of the tour total altitude was 10287 metres. Total climbing on the tour was 13927 metres or 44291 feet.