Wednesday 13th June 2001, Holmes Chapel to Liverpool Airport, Airport to Geneva.
Mile indicator: 3105 to 3124, 19 miles.
Holmes Chapel 12.44 into Crewe 12.57, Crewe (due 12.51 – glad it was late, left at 13.05 on an unexpected earlier train, in Runcorn at 13.25. Slight trouble with the new V brakes, not sure of the adjustments so found a cycle shop in the town (what a run down place the centre of Runcorn is!) Left Runcorn at 2.05 and cycled over the Mersey road bridge and took the right turn after a mile or so in Widnes for Hale. (My grandmother was once told she was going over that bridge as it loomed in front. With a few choice expletives she said there was no way she was going over that giant hump in a car)
The weather was very warm today and it was even warmer when I arrived in Geneva. The plane was 20 minutes late leaving but only a few minutes late arriving in Geneva Contrain. From there I followed the Centre Ville signs to the waterfront. I was greeted with the wonderful Jet d’Eau on the sunny lake. From here along the front and signed in at the Auberge de Jeannuese, locked up my bags in a secure locker, had a shower and made off on the bike for the old town to search for a restaurant. I enjoyed a smashing fondue in a place in the old streets above the lake at about 10.00pm. I was disappointed to find the ethnic fair wasn’t on this time. I enjoyed a massage when I was here last June. Back to the hostel and a good night’s sleep.
Thursday 14th June 2001 Geneva to Col de la Joux Plane and back to Geneva
Mile indicator: 3124 to 3226, 102 miles.
The challenge today are the passes Col des Moises, Col des Arces (photo 3489) -only took 20 minutes but then it’s much longer from the other side, Col de Terremont (photo 3490), Col de Jambez (hardly noticed on the downhill), Col de la Ramaz which was a long struggle, Col de la Savoliere, again on the downhill, Mont Chery / l’Encenaz (photos 3491-2), Avoraiz and finally the big one to finish off with which finished me off for the day – Col de la Joux Plane (photos 3493-6) – and I can see why this is a favourite of the Tour de France organisers. Racing up the Joux Plane from either direction is enough to cripple any want to be maillot jaune contender. After this I pedalled like mad to get back to Geneva before dark – but didn’t make it because I got lost in Annemasse, 5 miles from the end.
I started off at 7.45 am and arrived back in Geneva at 10.30 pm. At nearly 15 hours I averaged 8.6 mph. Marco Pantani would have done four laps of the route in that time. It was an easy route from Geneva via Meiner and Jussy to Monnaiz through the farming land south of Lac Leman, low-lying roads with gentle ups and downs. It was interesting to go over the old Swiss / French border point at Monniaz, no custom point here now. The road does an angle to accommodate what was a checkpoint then joins up at an exaggerated ‘T’ junction onto the French road. Suddenly the scenery becomes typically French and no longer the neat and tidy Swiss scene. I turned off just past Bons for a quieter road to Draillant. Up to this point it was pastoral, especially at Cervens where there’s an agriculture stores (agricole), a dairy and an old village school where a school ma’am was sitting at the door listening to a child read. I asked the way up to Col des Moises from by the church at Draillant as it was a bit confusing here. The road up is called Rue de Ecole, first right after the church. There’s no indication of the way up. It was an easy route up through the dense trees which kept the climbing cooler, crossed another road then up further. The pass is signposted from here. It’s disappointing – my first climb and no pass marker at the top. There were some road diggers there so perhaps it’s temporarily removed.
I went down a stretch then a small white sign indicated Col des Arces at the first road right in the valley. It only took 20 minutes to get up there, the left fork is the correct road at a point of indecision, a token rise up with a couple of hairpins (curvettes in French) at the end in a very pastoral setting. I annoyed some dogs in a yard on the way up, I annoyed them even more when I whizzed passed them on the return, glad they were behind a 10ft high wire mesh fence. Maybe the pass deserves its Brevette International Grimpeur rating from the other way up. At the top was a small brown sign indicating the name of the road summit. Down again and a slight rise up to the second B.I.G. of the tour and the 3rd pass of the day, the Col de Terramont. This is so easy you can take your young lad up on his 12” knock about. The regulation photo and down the other side to Col de Jambez. Although signposted it wasn’t really noticeable from this side but it would be coming up from the south, and I spun down that road now to Megeoette. The road to the Ramaz pass was closed at this point but a sign indicated that I could get onto it further along, past roadworks. Just after the shelter of limestone cliffs overhanging the road, I took a road for Lautraz, down to the river then up the other side as far as Chez Besson then the climbing gets serious – the first real climb of the day and I could see that this pass had to be earned this time, the 5th pass of the day and B.I.G. number 3. At this point you can see the cliffs way above where the final climb was, and a gap up there which shows the way over the top. From my brief stop at Chez Besson for milk and yoghurt from my bag and the beginning of a hot climb I had a brief rest then went for it. It’s a long, hard slog up through the trees to Sommand which is on a plateau, an alpine valley then a short rise up in a wide arc along the rim of the bowl shaped valley for a gentler climb to the col. At Sommand is a restaurant with a brilliant view of the valley up here and the valley below as well as the mountain to the south which dominates the scene. A Magnum ice cream was rather expensive here at 16FF but I needed it! After that entire climb there’s no summit marker. Down the other side to Col de la Savoliere, which like two others before is on the down from this side. A sweep down the mountain among the trees and turned off on a double back, breaking my descent for the 4th B.I.G. of the day, the 7th pass called Col l’Encranez or Mont Chery. At this point a yellow sign indicated ‘ferme’ but the blue sign next to it with the col name had a green board indicating ‘ouvert’ – so being totally optimistic (which many times has left me with misty optics) I went for it. Green for ‘Go!’ I didn’t want to come this way again! The was, I later found out, was on the other side of the pass on the descent to Morzine where a work party was busy on the road sides laying concrete troughs and shovelling gravel. There was a hazard with a digger across the road but I got past it OK. The ‘ferme’ sign was for the motorists, as a result I had a very Quiet and pleasant, almost car-free (and care-free) climb and over the pass. The way up to Col l’Encranez was at first a wild flower pasture leading up to an Alpine valley as before. The whole area was a huge half bowl where three sides of the area around sweeped up in a long curve to the mountain ridge way above, glinting in the sun. One road went up it and I was hoping I wasn’t going up there! A few yards on and I saw my way out through a gap in the bowl and the main route went this way. All the area here is a nature reserve. It was a short distance to the road summit from here, but again no road summit marker – and the only café at the top was closed! Out of season touring sometimes has its drawbacks. An old man was noisily mowing his grass, not sure if the coughs and spluttering were coming from man or machine. I drank from the wooden trough tap, and made my way down on a long sweep to Morzine to cross the road of my trip from Geneva to St Jean de Sixt last year, part of the Route des Grandes Alpes.
In Morzine, down futher into the town, an underpass below the Col de Joux Plane road then up a series of hairpins above Morzine, to open out to a road with a slight rise at Prodains then up more steeply to Avoraiz, nothing too difficult. After that I thought the last planned climb of the day, up Col de Joux Plane, should be a doddle. I was very, very wrong! The Michelin map number 74 indicates this as being a mere 6km – but I’m sure at the very least it is 11km as measured on my speedo mile indicator. The way up is well wooded, which is just as well in the heat! The hotel / restaurant at the top of the road isn’t quite the summit, even though it looks it as you see the Giffre valley down below, to the south. First of all you have Col du Ran Folly (I wonder if folly means the same as the English word – if so the pass is a folly) Another 63 metres up brought me to the Col de la Joux Plane road summit, 2km further on. Here it becomes a plateau with a lake and a café, reminiscent of many Swiss passes, such as the Oberalp in Bernese Oberland. I toyed with the idea of taking a train either from Cluses or Thonon back to Geneva but my Thos Cook pages didn’t show any possibilities so there was nothing for it but to ride as quickly as possible back to Geneva on the Samoens – Annemasse road in the hope of getting back before dark. It took me a mere ½ hour to descend to the main road at le Villard. From there, at 7.30 I made hell for leather along the flat valley road, reaching Annemasse at 10.00 including a stop at Fillinges for ½ hour to eat a pizza and down 2 orange drinks from a wayside van – it was very good. I knew at this point I wouldn’t have time to search for a café in Geneva tonight, besides I would be past it but hungry and weak the next day so I needed this. The sun was going down when I reached Annemasse but I figured if I could get onto the Geneva road I could cycle in on my weak lights through the city outskirts that would be lit up. Then I got lost in the town for nearly an hour. There is just no road sign for Geneva, only ‘Autres directions’ I asked at Macdonalds next to the motorway, the sign ‘Geneve’ here was only for the motorway and no way was I going to risk that! I was told to go back to the centre and follow road signs for Galliard (France) then Moellesuiz (Switzerland) for the direct road into the city. I arrived at the end of the lake bridge and rewarded with a spectacular display of the Jet d’Eau lit up in many colours. My last gasp was around the edge of the lake and back to the hostel at 11.00. I showered, wrote a bit of the diary and crashed out after a strong Tennants lager to celebrate my victory. I’ve now cycled all the passes north of Chamonix, which makes a future visit to the French Alps that bit more compact in the ground to cover to satisfy my Hannibal instinct.
Friday 15th June 2001, Geneva to St Francois de Sales (Col de Plaimpalais)
Mile indicator: 3227 to 3293, 66 miles 08.00 to 8.00 pm, 12 hours, 6 m.p.h.
Six miles an hour seems a crawl but then the passes attacked today were Mont Saleve south of Geneva and Cret de Chatillon, two more Brevet International grimpeur climbs rated as tough to warrant inclusion in their list of the most difficult climbs.
It was brilliant weather and perfect for climbing up Mont Saleve. I bought some Vaseline from a pharmacy in Geneva before leaving – just in case! Along the cycleway and leaving the city the mountain looms ahead. That tower on the mountain ahead balanced on the sheer cliff wouldn’t see me close for another 2 hours or more. It seemed impossible to find a way up there from this point. The road from Geneva ends at a ‘T’ junction and the border checkpoint right below the mountain. To the right was a signpost indicating the cablecar up to the summit. I wanted the road. I asked at the customs and was directed left along a very busy French highway for 5km and turned off at Etrembieres. I was only about a kilometre from that motorway junction where I asked for directions last night. From here the way was south on the la Roche road for a kilometre, then forked right for a steady incline up to l’Monnex. Just after a fruit shop where I bought my breakfast – yoghurt, oranges, bananas and orange juice - there was another right turn then I was on the road for Mont Saleve. Monnetier was next, a bright modern village at the foot of the climb just before the countryside, away now from the built up area at the base of the mountain. A few curvettes up through the woods to the viewpoint at Les Arbes and the top end of the cablecar section. There’s a great view of Geneva , the airport, Jet d’Eau and Lac Leman as well as the Jura beyond the city. There was an elderly English couple here and no car, so I take it they’ve come up for the view from Geneva on the cablecar. I continue on and up some more through open meadow after Grand Gorge I reach the tower seen from the start of my trek earlier on then very soon came the top of Mont Saleve at 1307m but no road summit marker (photo 3497). The Michelin map is wrong indicating the summit as la Croissette, these should be down chevrons as the village is in a trough not a high, indicating a pass height, this was along the road a bit and down from the 1307m point. From la Croisette the road goes up again to Grand Piton through a bank of wild flowers on either side or a large group of cyclists careering down. “Bonjour!” Again, no summit marker, a long sweep down through the woods for 16km to Pringy where my sails were halted at a motorway and no way of finding the way into Annecy. To make matters worse there was a shower of rain. I followed the cycle path signs but all that did was to return me to my point of origin in a wide circle. I asked the way in a patisserie and eventually found my way out under the motorway construction site 2km from Annecy, a right turn then rejoined the old road into the town. Annecy is a very interesting old town. The place is well worth a longer visit for a base maybe next year. There’s a long pedestrians street, town bridges, old buildings of interest and du lac to top the lot. I took the wrong road out of the town and ended up in Sevrier along the lake. After doubling back, taking a left then left again up a steep section, I was on my next B.I.G. climb out of town along the Rue de Belvedere in the direction of Semnoz. The pass took me the remainder of the afternoon; there are some tough sections along the way. I arrived at the top at 6.00 pm – 3 ½ hours of climbing. The lower part of the course is round hairpins through the woods, past a large F.U.A.J- to be kept in mind for a possible stay. Next came a campsite. The notices advertised marmots on the route but I didn’t see any – maybe they saw me first. In what seemed ages I reached the first level points of an alpine meadow at les Puisots. Here I stopped for a couple of coffees (30FF), toilet, a good wash and a half hour’s rest in the sun.
Just down the road in the wide-open space schoolchildren were being inducted into a nature lesson, the teachers trouping them around. At this point, about 1 1/2 hour up I was level on the map, distance wise but not height, with Sevrier that had only taken me 15 minutes of a wrong turn from Annecy along the lake. It was a long slog through the woods to the Quintal turn off. There was a heavy shower here, I waited under the trees then made off again on the final stage to the top, overtaken by a group of cyclists. “Bonjour! Ca va?” Past the bob sleigh run and the road took a turn to the east and I reached the top after another ¾ of an hour in the clearing I reached the lonely hotel marking the road summit. On the hotel was a height marker indicating 1704 metres and not 1699 as the Michelin map indicates (photo 3498). I reckon the sign is approx 5 metres above the ground but you can’t measure nature with a wall! After a brief stop the weather turned nasty and I was faced with the prospect of a long descent in a thunderstorm. It was disappointing to have the storm with me most of the way down, and even more forceful when I reached Leschaux. In Lescheraines it was really lashing with rain and some people in a pub were laughing out of the window to a stupid cyclist caught in a thunderstorm. The rain was bouncing up almost as strong as it was lashing. Ah the joys and pleasures of a holiday avec velo! I was now looking desperately for somewhere to stay but couldn’t find it here. There’s restaurants but no hotel. I was directed at a restaurant to Hotel Joly on the Plaimpalas road but it was jolly well closed. At least the rain has gone off now. There’s something peaceful about being in the country just after a bout of rain. I enjoyed the ride toward Plaimpalais in real farming country that foreigners (me!) very rarely see abroad. I was getting tired though, and time was against me. I reached le Noyer and asked at a café I spotted off the side of road if there was anywhere to stay around here. The old couple were very helpful and the man went to find an English girl who lives in the village. The girl lives with her French husband and Danish mother in a beautifully renovated barn, all well crafted wood inside the open plan house. I wish I could stay here but it wasn’t possible. The girl found me a place to stay in St Francois de Sales just across the valley. She took me in the car with my bags. I booked in at the hotel as quickly as possible as the owner was going out for the evening. She took me back for my bike and invited me in for a cup of tea – Yorkshire teabags! They have been married for 11 years and lived in Le Noyer all that time. She says she doesn’t miss Kent and loves the way of life in France, especially this rural backwater. It was bliss cycling with no weight to the hotel. This is something I should be doing around the Alps. It makes such a difference. When I got back to the hotel and let myself in I was surprised to find a huge ham and gherkin sandwich and a very large bowl of fruit there that I couldn’t possibly eat all. It lasted me the next two days! The next morning when I paid the bill I wasn’t charged for it – offerte – a treat! The personal touch from a local must have done the trick! I was the only guest. I locked up the bike in the garage, showered and dealt with my aching backside with vaseline. I sandwiched my wet clothes between towels, as there was no heating on. Brought the diary up to date, devoured that huge sandwich and loads of grapes that won’t keep and crashed out at 11.20 ready for another full day tomorrow.
Saturday 16th June 2001, St Francois de Sales to Albertville.
Mile indicator: 3293 to 3368, 75 miles 09.00 to 8.00 pm, 11 hours, 7 m.p.h.
A very cloudy and damp start to the day, a steady rise up to Plaimpalais along the quiet road, it went down a bit at the end of the road where it joins with the road coming up from le Noyer, veered to the left to join the lower road then up again through the woods to emerge in a clearing below Mont Revard. Only the Hotel Plaimpalais marks the spot with the summit marker, nothing exciting (photo 3499). Turned right at la Feclaz then a short climb up through the woods to emerge in a clearing after 4km of pleasant woodland. Below Mont Revard a French cyclist stopped and asked if I was OK as I paused to read the map. He told me it was a short 1:6 to the top and well worth the effort for the view down to Lac du Bourget and Aix le Bains (photo 3500). It was the best view I had of the lake as the descent and over the small hump called Col de la Cluse was yet again a rain soaking experience, another view spoilt. I took a picture from the top; just below the summit is Mont Revard ski resort. The sky was getting becoming menacing again just after I took in the view. I’m glad I took plastic overshoes with me, as I’ve needed them a lot these two days. At Trevignin there was a slight up then a long sweep down into Aix le Bains (spa). I checked at the SNCF for a possible train further south to avoid the bad weather, there was nothing. In very dismal conditions I made my way south for Chambery, followed the lake through Tresserve, downhill a bit along the lake with a view back along the lake to Viviers where it started raining heavily again. Had a bash at Mont du Chat through the woods, very steep up here but couldn’t see anything because of the rain so doubled back, try this one some future year. Rejoined a very busy road at Viviers for Chambery and got very confused in the town. Arriving at a high point where there’s modern large modern building complexes, the signs indicated ‘toutes direction’ to the right and a long way downhill. I was hoping this wasn’t a mistake and I’d have to find my way back up again. It would have been better to carry on at the top instead of sweep downhill as I ended up doing a wide arc of the town, eventually found my way back again at the road at the beginning of the Granier pass at Jacob then higher up past the university at Bellacombette district. I asked the way in feeble French and was so proud that I was understood. The way up the up the Col de Granier was uninspiring at first through the higher districts of Chambery but once Bellacombette old village was reached followed by the wooded ascent of the pass it was much more interesting. It was a long climb up through the trees. Reaching a tunnel at le Severt a man intently gazing through binoculars down to the valley shouted after me as I passed. He warned of a cycle race approaching and that I should stop and let them pass me. No way, I quickened up my pace but stayed well in to the side of the road for the inevitable flash past. I wasn’t too far behind the stragglers though! I got there before a few remaining had finally arrived at the summit. I was urged on when a Croix Rouge van went past – I needed that desperately! It was a good ride to the top, urged on by my mirage of a sudden soothing of my tender rear ahead. On reaching it parked at the summit car park I sidled up and said I was rouge too, and was very cross with myself for not dealing with it and had he got anything I can apply? Heaven to my rump came in the form of Biafine emulsion cream, pour application coutanee. I bought some at the foot of the pass at Chapareillan (or chapped, apply on!). The rain had stayed off for most of the way up and because of the weather I wasn’t so hot and sticky. However this is not the French Alps I experienced last year in brilliant sunshine riding the peaks of the Route des Grandes Alpes.
At the summit café I enjoyed crepes and coffee, the essential photos of the summit marker (photos 3501-2) then the steep descent alongside Mt. Granier to the Isere valley at 5.00pm. On the way down there was a glorious view over the vineyards along the Isere past the hill of Montmelian just ahead (photo 3503). I queued up in the pharmacie for the magic cream and immediately applied it when I got out of the door – well, nobody knows me. I made my way along a very flat lane through poppy fields to Montmelian then a fast road all the way to Albertville. I made very good time along the busy road, level and straight as a die, as far as Pont de Gresy where I took a minor road through to St Helene and Grignon into Albertville. It started raining again at the pont and I thought it dangerous to cycle along a wet busy road, as it’s hard to be noticed by motorists. I arrived in Albertville at 8.00pm and found a hotel called Hotel Million – and hoped it wouldn’t cost that. I went for a meal nearby in the square – spaghetti carbonera , a mixte salad and 2 large beers for £18. I’d spent enough today but compare that to touring in car. My only downfall was a weakness for flicking the TV channels in the hotel room, especially when I found BBC Cable, consequently sleep came at midnight. I had a great night’s sleep at 420FF (£40).
Sunday 17th June 2001, Albertville to St Jean de Maurienne
Mile indicator: 3368 to 3411, 43 miles, 10.00 to 5.00 pm, 7 hours, 6 m.p.h
Only a short distance today but it was atrocious day weather wise. Out at 10.00, waiting for the rain to go off but it’s here for the duration. After a late breakfast and a lie in I was away. The reception girl gave me a street map and directions for the quiet route for the Col de la Madeleine (pronounced mad –ee-leene). This was the minor road through Tours en Savoie. The rain went off but the sky was overcast and very close. At Langon I waved down a cyclist and asked for the way on the lane to avoid the main road at this point. At Cevins I was to go over the bridge that spans the main road and go through Rognaix. There was a slight diversion here due to a rock fall. At the end of the road there is a slight rise up to join the road for the col. At first the rise was severe with several virage up through the trees rising to a dizzy height above the main road, Defile du Pas de Briancon. Bonneval village was a long time coming, but when it did so did the rain. A cyclist sheltering from the rain under the front of a closed café suggested it would soon go off, and it did. From here the road levelled out across to Villard, another climb and another level stretch by a reservoir to la Thuile, then a tough climb up to Celliers. (So goes the saying “don’t let the level stretches thuile you”, ahem). At Celliers I stopped for a meal, gulasch soup and ham omelette with a big jug of water for 60FF. Other cyclists were also in there. The lady in there spoke English, which was very helpful! From here it was 10km to the top, after Dessus there’s no respite. The climb is rapid, finishing up with virages 2km from the top. At this point the scenery resembles the Scottish Highlands (but 5 times as high). I really suffered on the last kilometre as I was caught in a hailstorm blowing toward me from over the col. There were plenty of cyclists coming down, they had better sense. I had no gloves and I was freezing, the coat was also soaked. This was the very worse weather condition on my tour. I was peeved because I wanted to enjoy that last kilometre of climb and see the col ahead. I got glimpses of it through the hail but had to keep my head down, I was feeling weak. As soon as I arrived at the café at the top I was in there like a shot, top layers off, wrung my jacket, and spread them all in front of the fire along with the other cyclists’ togs in there. They were the same group I saw at Celliers. I suggested to one he looked like a ballet dancer with his black tights and lycra. I went outside after a coffee and a warm up. The Michelin map shows the pass as being 1984 metres but the indication on the stone outside is 2000 metres. After a couple of photos (3504-5), put plenty of warm clothes on and descended carefully on the very wet road down the mountain to la Chambre, now that the rain had stopped. It was good to be able to descend a pass in dry weather for once. I started from the top at 3.15; it took me ¾ hour to reach la Chambre, via Longchamp, a skiing resort. It’s a long way down, well wooded, the road daubed in places with the names of Zuler, Pantani and other greats who are superhuman to be able to race up these heights. How do they do it? Even without weight to hold you back or even a titanium frame. (I picked one up parked next to mine in the hotel tonight, incredibly light – but is the structure OK for carrying any weight?) I enquired at the rail station in la Chambre for a retreat south again to Provence where the weather is so much better but there was nothing until the morning. Grin and bear it and hope that the forecast for tomorrow is correct – better weather. Biked on along the busy valley road of the Arc to reach St Jean de Maurienne. Although a main road, the scenery on either side is pretty good. The mountains to the north, the Vanoise, are quite something. A slight rise up into the town and soon found a hotel, l’Europe at 250FF, with a bath. I phoned Ruth at 6.00pm then out for a meal at Petit Bauchon on Rue du College, recommended by the lady in the hotel – who had lived in York for a year and spoke good English. I had a fish salad followed by cervelet and potatoes and a 70cl bottle of red wine and ice cream. Walked back to the hotel, past the lit up church tower and through the covered ways of Rue de la Republique and went to sleep at 10.15, thoroughly satisfied and nodded off as soon as head hit pillow.
Monday 18th June 2001, St Jean de Maurienne to le Bourg-d’Oisans
Mile indicator: 3412 to 3456, 44 miles, 09.15 to 5.00 pm, 7 ¾ hours, 6 m.p.h
Only 44 miles today but 1500 metres of climb with the Col du Mollard and Col de la Croix de Fer (the cross of iron). A bit of a damp start but on the whole it was a dry day, a few showers. Straight out from the hotel and up the Arvan valley along Avenue des Clapeys then Rue Joseph Desogus to reach Gevoudaz, following the river, in 40 minutes to begin the climb by the quarries and up the rocky pass in steep short sections to get over the rock defile before getting to more open country above that. The lower part of the road was pretty busy with construction traffic working the quarry here. A sudden rise up of hairpins for 18km climb to Col du Mollard, reached at 12.15. The way up is better from the north despite the quarry workings as the south side is being resurfaced near the summit; also it’s thickly wooded so the views are minimal. Took the obligatory picture of the summit marker, looking west as it was very cloudy looking back the way I came (photo 3506). A couple of villages on the way up were at the long ends of a switchback – le Collet and la Cochette which are typical laid back farming communities, even the farmers chew cud here. The ski village of Albiez le Vieux came next. This is a sleepy place. The only shop seems to be a ski hire place, and that was definitely closed. Passed through the ghost town then the short but very steep rise up the last gasp of the pass to reach the summit marker, past some houses. It’s a bit of a rural place up here. Still plenty of farming country, a surprise at this height. It’s a tame summit just above the houses, even a geranium box at the summit marker, but it’s not a tame climb getting up here. The descent to Montrond Belleville wasn’t far down through the trees which was great because I knew that I wouldn’t have to climb all the way back up again for the next one. At the bottom is the pretty village of Entraigues with an interesting restaurant that I didn’t try but it’s in a nice setting set back in the village by the old church. Along the river Arvan (rejoined after going up the Mollard). On and off with the cagoule again along the Arves valley, through two interesting villages St Jean and St Sorlin d’Arves. A restaurant at the first one but nothing open in the next one, a ski resort below the Col de la Croix de Fer. From here I could see the whole of the climb before me that snaked up the mountain, a good morale boost. It’s a narrow road, a bit uneven in places but the views down the valley and up the side of the mountain are pretty fantastic (photo 3507). There are a few waterfalls along the way to slake your thirst. I reached the road summit at 2.30 and stayed until 4.00pm. I got a motorcyclist to take my photo with the summit marker (photos 3508-9). I met a kiwi – human that is not a zoo escapee, name of James who is also doing the full blown tour, Geneva – Nice, fully laden and so as daft as me. We had omelettes, coke and cake (mine 83FF) at the top then stayed together as far as Bourg for a meal tonight and a good chin wag on experiences. We rode down to Col du Glandon, the regulatory photo with no scenery – thick fog (photo 3510), but this was the weather’s last ditch effort because lower down the mountain and for the rest of my tour I had no more rain and only deep blue sky – and buzzing insects around my head and handlebars. Left Savoie for good, entering Isere, and a slight up at Defile de Maupas. Looking back at the reservoir was like looking at the Pyramids – the large angular shape of the peak and the stony dam wall reminded me of that, not many camels up here except the discarded cigarette packet type. Then came a glorious descent all the way to Bourg in the valley below. There was some heavy rain on the descent that bothered James as he had no foot protection and got soaked. As for me, well I had my plastic Safeway bags. On reaching Bourg there was no sign of rain and wouldn’t be again. Goodbye and good riddance. I bought a phone card in a tabac shop so that I could phone Ruth. 43FF, postcards for home, Ruth and the Pardoes. We booked in at a one star hotel for 195FF single room. We later both went for a meal. I had spaghetti carbonera and a cheese mozzarella salad and downed it with 2 pints of Guinness. Later I caught up with the diary and planned the next day’s trip. Is it possible to leave the luggage here and cycle up l’Alpe d’Huez and the Ornon? I’ll find out tomorrow. Right now its just midnight and sleep is needed.
Tuesday 19th June 2001, le Bourg-d’Oisans to Briancon, 7 m.p.h.
Mile indicator: 3457 to 3519, 62 miles and 4400 metres of climb, 10.00 – 7.00 pm
Only 62 miles but 4400 metres of climbing today, taking in l’Alpe d’Huez, Col de Poutran, Col de Sarenne, Col du Lautaret and Col de Granon. After the usual dry crusty roll and jam and coffee that sends the French off to work, posted cars to Ruth and the Pardoes and left most of my weight in one pannier at the hotel and went for l’Alpe d’Huez, lapping up the 21 numbered hairpins in 2 hours. I thought that was pretty good going until I found out that Lance Armstrong raced up in the Tour de France the following month, July – in 37 minutes! Is he superhuman or what? There’s no hope for us mere mortals! It was sad to read also that in the Etape the day before the tour a 60-year-old man died on this road, attempting too much his heart gave in. I stopped at the church at La Garde after a few hairpins. A useful stop for a toilet laid on and benches to take in the view (photo 3511). Today, for the first time since Annecy, I had a clear blue sky. The weather was glorious. I stopped again at the entry to l’Alpe d’Huez to take a picture, and one down the mountain, (photo 3512-3) then on up through the triangular shape of the ski resort. Called in at the Tourist Information Centre for leaflets to add to my growing load then up to the apex of the triangle, the top of the pass. From there, a level section then a gentle rise up, becoming steeper as it neared Grand des Rousses Mountain. Col de Poutran was reached ½ hour later near the ski lift station (photos 3515-6). No need to go down the other side and up again to Lac Besson, the pass was conquered and I needed to get down the mountain and on to Briancon. Back down to l’Alpe and to the last part of the triangle, past the heliport and a construction site for new hotels and on to Col du Sarenne, another ½ hour easy ride, and the countryside in complete contrast to the construction site back along the road. The road was closed to motor traffic but the ‘ferme’ sign said nothing about velos a la cyclisme (photo 3517) so off I went, through a stream gushing out over the road, a gentle rise and to the top of the pass. The road was closed due to the strong water spray but there was no real danger, I just got very wet but in the hot sun soon dried off. I was glad there were no cars permitted, it was a pleasant half hour of total peace on the climb. I turned back for l’Alpe again, meandered slowly through the resort then made my way back down the pass. It was a fantastic ride up here, a real classic but not the challenge of the Stelvio or the Bonnette as the hairpins are flat and make the going up easier as you get to rest 21 times! I also prefer the others because of their wildness. You don’t get to see any marmots or other wild life. I enjoyed the two sets of climb – the first section that negotiates the rock face and the later section after Huez village, which are more open and good views. Most of the way up the end is in sight as the ski resort can be seen perched on the high ledge. It’s interesting to see the numbered boards at the hairpins have the names of Tour de France riders on plates under the numbers (photo 3518). Number 2 near the top has Marco Pantani’s name, and so on. The ascent was quite fantastic, wonderful views as the clouds disappeared from the valley, and eventually from the top where there was eventually a clear blue sky. It’s useful to have points along the road such as La Garde and Huez village to put it into scale as well as the hairpin numbers which are a definite encouragement, especially numbered as a countdown from 21 to the top of the pass. Number 21 is missing – perhaps somebody took it as a souvineer! There’s a notice there that says “l’Alpe d’Huez is ridden by many cyclists on the road. Please exercise caution along the road” This is in several languages on other boards at the bottom of the pass. I felt reassured. I noticed the turning to the left at Huez signposted Villard Reculas, this links up with the road coming down from Col de la Croix le Fer from yesterday. Between bend numbers 1 and 2 near the top the road divides into two on the approach into l’Alpe. Cyclists are encouraged to take the left (west – ouest) road but on coming down I would say the right turn gives more to look at on the way up, but heavy traffic is encouraged to go this way. The way up along here leads to the side of the resort where there is a lot of building work going on, around the heliport and at the start of the Sarennes road. I asked at the tourist office for the position of the summit marker – there wasn’t one. The top of the village marked the spot. I also wanted to know the way to the Poutran and Sarennes. One thing I forgot to do was to obtain a certificate from the Tourist Office of my trip up the pass. I only found out about this as I reached the foot of the pass later and saw the notice board for cyclists. I felt like kicking myself. I’ll just have to come again! At the top of l’Alpe d’Huez I went on higher and followed the open road, an easy uphill to Col du Poutran. I didn’t see the lakes as they’re further on but I easily made it to the top of the pass, I didn’t want to work my legs off going on to the lakes. From there it’s a great view of the Grandes Rousses stretching away to the north. Back down to l’Alpe d’Huez then down the pass with a few stops to take some photos (3519-21) of the twisting road below. I met James for the last time climbing up near the bottom at curvette 19. He must have started out late as it was 1.00 pm now. I rode down with a French girl part of the way who insisted on keeping up with me even after I stopped to take photos (3522-23). Must have been my sexy shorts. I said ‘bon voyage’ on overtaking but she caught me up again. I could do without complications. I asked where she was cycling to, it turned out to be west from le Bourg and I was heading east so we carried on together to le Bourg d‘Oisans where it was ‘au revoir’. I collected my other pannier from the hotel and repacked so both were of even weight and made off from this cyclists playground. I must come back here again sometime and really explore the Ornon, la Berarde, Besse, Villard Reculas and Vaujany and certainly the Great One again. Heading east for Briancon it was a tough ride up from the la Berarde junction up to Barrage du Chambon, some abrupt hilly bits that levelled out after that point. The heat was intense on this road up; I was losing time and energy. I set my target as la Grave and have an hour there. The first 5 km from le Bourg was easy, the next 9 km was agony through tunnels and a steep sweat producing busy main road. Now I know why Carol Pardoe hates tunnels, and I must remind her, as her and John have cycled this road.
Le Barrage was a sight to see, the dam to the west is very high but there was the luxury of a rare downhill for a couple of kilometres. The chevron on the Michelin map is wrong here as it’s a steep down heading east not a steep up. It was short lived though as the road soon compensated its loss by a steady climb up to la Grave (photo 3524), then down a short way, leaving Isere and into Hautes-Alpes. The tunnel at the barrage is a long one but well lit and a down in this direction. A long and hot ride up to la Grave with the towering La Meije to the south overshadowing the rest of the route up to the road summit of the Col du Lautaret. The place seemed ever elusive as it was advertised by boards a long way from the village as only 3 minutes away – maybe so if driving! It was only when I got nearer to the village and saw the same signs and thought that this just cannot be that the penny dropped and I realised the signs were indicating that the la Meije cable car station was only 3 minutes from la Grave. The village appeared at last, over the brow of a small climb, with the majestic la Meije dominating the village. I can see why the Pardoes like it here, it’s an interesting village with meandering back streets, places to eat and browse around – except for the busy road tunnel ahead – Carol hates tunnels – it’s a perfect base for la Meije and the roads around here. I bought milk, bananas, a pack of 5 Snickers (5 @ 20FF, which wasn’t bad – 40p each) and a bottle of Yop energy drink, which I finished off later in my approach into Briancon to celebrate. I sat on a bench looking at the mountain and rested for a while. Leaving la Grave it was uphill and through that tunnel – now I hate tunnels too, the roar and thundering in the black hole of overtaking lorries and the bright lights of the approaching traffic even in a lit tunnel is a bit unnerving. Yet another tunnel a bit further on but otherwise this is a very good road and the final stage up to the col is worth the effort (photo 3525). Some hairpins toward the end in what was now a very open landscape, the hilly hump to the south indicated I was nearing the top of the pass as I remembered it from last year. I had a look around the alpine garden (jardin alpin) to the north of the road summit, on the Galibier road (useful for toilets – saves queuing at the restaurant!) I went up the Galibier again, easier from this side. It’s a very hot ride up the steep sections but no stopping to the top. Stayed at the perch (there’s not much space on that cleft) then a long sweep down and continued south- east to Briancon. Col de Granon was the last pass of the day from Chantemerle, 12 km of real challenge. The road was OK as far as Le Tronchet, and not too bad a climb to this point but from there on it was much steeper. No summit marker at the top, stayed a few minutes then did an about turn back down to Chantemerle. On the way down to Briancon and being ever so clever I spotted a bus taking the higher road to the left – I knew where it was going! Last year I remembered this top road that avoids going down into the town spread out in the valley only to have to climb up again to stay in the old town. The top road stays on the level and ends up at Champs de Mars (Mars Gate), the main entrance through the old city walls into the old town. I tried other hotels other than the one I stayed at last year but decided on the same one again as I enjoyed my stay there. For 320FF I had room and breakfast, this time in an annex across the narrow street, of the Auberge de la Paix, and pay I will. The accommodation was a studio type with a living room and kitchen as well as the bedroom. Last year I ate at the hotel and listened to an all woman band playing drums and whistles. This time it was a lot less lively. After a shower in a sit up bath – unusual - and change, I went in search of a restaurant and ate down the road a bit. I had as much salad as I could eat for 57FF and a tagliatelle with bacon at 55FF and a litre of red Rhone wine and a beer to start the meal, all for £26 but then I haven’t spent much today and really needed a good feed after all that climbing. I had a quick wander around the town, phoned Ruth at 11.00 (10.00 in England) with the phone card bought in le Bourg, caught up with the diary at the hotel and went to sleep at 12.50. The end of a perfect day and not a drop of rain for once.
Wednesday 20th June 2001, Briancon to Guillestre,
Mile indicator: 3520 to 3590, 70 miles, 09.30 – 8.00 pm, 7 m.p.h.
With just a few things in one pannier and the weight left in the hotel to collect later I wheeled the back along to Champs de Mars and rode out along the main road to Col de Montgenevre. A gentle up away from Briancon, looking back on the old forts that surround the town (photos 3526-7). The road up wasn’t difficult, the first four kilometres to the Eglise St Claude turn off being gentle ups and downs and direct. After that there is a series of hairpins through the trees, nothing strenuous, to the road summit of the Col de Montgenevre. It took me an hour to get up the pass that’s high but only a 550-metre height difference from Briancon (bree-an-sonn), the highest town in France. It wasn’t a long drawn out affair and I was there without much effort. I stopped for about 20 minutes to take pictures and look around the back street, parallel to the main road. There are some old buildings along there worth a look at. I asked at the tourist office on the main road where the col altitude marker was. There isn’t one. My calm about any top of a pass, which is usually a peaceful place to sit and daydream for a while, was shattered by the noisy road works going on. The road was being resurfaced and the smell of the tar in the heat wasn’t pleasant. Cars were going over it but the tar was sticking to wheels so I wasn’t going near it. I rode along the dusty car park than runs the length of the village to the south then came back along what was the old road through Montgenevre village. I took some photos at the east side of the village (photos 3528-9), filled my bottles from a fountain on the old road then did an about turn back down the pass. I was glad to leave the noise behind but still had to contend with lorries plying there way up when negotiating the tight turns on the way down (photo 3530). I was back in Briancon 20 minutes later. I collected my other pannier from the hotel at 11.00, and wheeled the bike out to Champs de Mars. There was a street market around the gate. On the other side of the road I noticed that nearly every shop sold alcohol, the usual border point trade. I rode downhill into ‘new’ Briancon to join heavy traffic queuing up at traffic lights – they were hardly moving. I rode in the middle of the road and past the lot. Another cyclist in front with far bulkier packs was doing the same – that would have been me some years ago but now I’ve learned to travel with as little as possible. I found the SNCF station at the very bottom of the town and bought a one way ticket to Montdauphin Guillestre, 8FF (80p) and across the road system, now that I’ve got the directions sussed to MacDonald’s. I had 40 minutes before the train and couldn’t find anywhere else to eat in that time. I was hungry after going up the Montgenevre so I had a big Mac and chips – was only going to be a coffee but I needed it! (42FF – and full for the next few hours!) I bought my train ticket beforehand so had ample time to catch the 12.42 train, final destination Marseille. It was late (retard) by 5 minutes. The train seating was unusual with curved seating by the doors and hooks to hang bikes vertically by the front wheels. I arrived in Montdauphin at 13.10, noticeably warmer here. I cycled away from the Durance with my uneven weight, 4 km up slightly into Guillestre and hunted for a hotel to leave the heavy pannier behind then spend the rest of the day around the Queyras national park. A found a good one on the Queyras road just above the town for 127FF plus breakfast, the Hotel des Alpin. Booking in and a quick shower, I left the heavy pannier in the room and biked away at 2.00pm with just the bare essentials in one very light pannier. I set off through the pretty wooded area, an avenue of small trees, to the archway entrance to the Parc Naturel Regional du Queyras where the scenery suddenly changes to a deep gorge on the left where the Guil flows way down below. Guillestre can be seen back in the distance the other side of the gorge. Here there’s a series of unlit short tunnels through the rocks as far as Mont du Roy. On the right hand side are the cliffs of the Assan which spreads across to the south of Combe du Queyras where there’s a gap in the narrowing of the cliffs further along as the gorge on the left gives way to the Combe forming a narrow gap for river and road as far as Chateau Queyras. The cliffs on both sides rise abruptly from the narrow gap along here. At first sight it seems that the road has to climb the cliffs somehow but the way is through the narrow gap. After the Combe and the gap there’s a rise up of 250 metres to Rocher de l’Ange Gardien and a war monument in the twist of the road here, then down past the turning for Col d’Izoard and memories of last year in the reverse direction and over the river bridge and the hump where the road goes to the left of the Chateau perched on the hill to the south. I saw this last year from the Col d’Izoard turning but had no time for a diversion, as I needed to carry on through Guillestre and over Col de Vars to Barcelonnette. Chateau Queyras is an interesting small village (photo 3531), a short stop to eat and fill my water bottles at the fountain then along to Ville-Vielle for the road up to Col Agnel / Colle dell Agnello just over the Italian border. It took me 4 ½ hours to reach the summit from Guillestre, arriving at 6.30 to the second. My timing was right; I could stay ½ an hour here to arrive back on Guillestre at 8.30pm. I left there at 7.00, back down in Ville-Vielle at 7.30. It took me 3 ½ hours to get up from here and ½ an hour down! Isaac Newton has a lot to answer for. I was back at the hotel at 8.30. It’s a sharp rise up just after Ville-Vielle. I noticed the first demoiselle coiffee on the right in the trees. This is a long vertical rock that stands on its own. On the top is balanced another rock. There are a lot more of these at Lac de Serre-Poncon further south. I took a photo of it on the way back down. Right now I wanted to get to Col Agnel so kept the stops to a minimum to get back to Guillestre for an evening meal at a decent time. The lack of weight helped a lot in getting up the pass but I was still very slow, mainly due to the heat. I arrived at Molines-en-Queyras, a quaint village of wooden houses but not as interesting as the older houses huddled together at Pierre Grosse further up. These houses and again at Fontgillarde are unusual as they are built on top of huge vertical posts that hold them above the ground. Perhaps this is for keeping out vermin? At Pierre Grosse I refilled my water bottles (photo 3532), down a bit after that to Fontgillarde then the climb really started. The road summit is 11 km from this point, taking me 2 hours up a steady rise getting steeper after the small monument to some French general to the left on the grassy bank to the side of the road. The road now rose in long hairpins that doubled back to give views back down the valley. The mountains loomed nearer (photos 3533-5) and I could see the top of the pass, the last few kilometres and road twists were through a bank of snow and ice cleared away from the road. I could see the cars going up slowly past the snow walls. The rough grassy slopes gave way to bareness then the start of the final hairpins encased in the ice walls to the road summit. Here was a classic mountain pass that I could enjoy to the full. There were no road workings or cafes up here and it was all very quiet with a superb view all around. Some people wished me ‘bravo’ as they sat and watched me pass by with a look of determination that must have looked like I was in agony but I was really enjoying the challenge of this one. Here was the summit of col number 3 on my French list after the Bonnette and the Iseran – but now I know the pass is really the Colle del Agnello as it’s just over the Italian border. The small brown summit marker of Italian passes was a couple of metres over the frontier (photo 3536-7). At the top, a short scramble up from the road, is a viewing rotunda with all the mountains in the vicinity laid out around the perimeter – there were some a lot further away and I was joking with an Italian up there about Etna and the Arc de Triomphe being indicated. I put hand above brow but couldn’t see them. At the top is a stone showing the border division between France and Italy (photo 3538). The Pain de Sucre appears to be the walls of one larger mountain that was. This can be seen clearly from the top of the pass. After a few photos and a good gaze around from the highest point on my trip, I turned around and went back the same way (photos 3539-41). The first stop was at demoiselle coiffee and took a picture (photo 3542). The car that I overtook at Molines had now overtaken so I overtook it again. It was a gorgeous ride back to Guillestre in the evening sun. The Combe du Queyras and the gorges in the evening were different as the rocks appeared redder, quite spectacular (photo 3543). Back along the gorge, through the archway to leave the national park and through the tree-lined avenue and back to the hotel. I couldn’t think of a more perfect ending to a beautiful day. The setting sun among the trees was magical. Back at the hotel at 8.30, I showered and changed and strolled out of the hotel at 9.15 and found a really good pizzeria down in the town where I had a 3 cheese pizza, a mixed cheese salad and a bottle of red wine for 146FF(£14) I was really full up. I was the last one in there at midnight. When I left they shut up shop. I had a stroll down to the town. The church and the tower were lit up and the stone path alongside was interesting to wander around. Being slightly merry after that wine and trudging back up the road I was ready for sleep. I panicked when I couldn’t find a way into the hotel – all the doors were locked. I knocked, nobody heard. I thought of the other key on my key ring and thought it must fit an outside door somewhere. Eventually I found a back way in with the key, what a relief! Into bed and crashed out at 12.30. I’ll have to repack the bags in the morning, there’s stuff everywhere around the floor! I thought to myself that it looks just like Lindsay’s room after an hour’s occupancy!
Thursday 21st June 2001, Guillestre to Estenc, Col de la Cayolle,
Mile indicator: 3591 to 3648, 57 miles, 9.15 to 7.30 pm, 6 m.p.h.
Up at 8.00 and spent ages repacking two bags. There’s got to be a better way than this. On any future trip it may be better to have 3 or 4 days from fixed centres and leave the weight behind, travel on by train to the next point. The nearer to Nice the hotter it gets. Down to breakfast at 8.45, had a real good fill up and out at 9.15. First port of call was the tourist office to check if the Col de Parpaillon was open. The girl in there made a phone call and found out it was blocked by snow. I wasn’t really surprised after seeing the conditions on the Colle dell Agnello yesterday. I was disappointed but the weight and the heat of the day and the ice at the summit were three reasons why I didn’t attempt the pass. I rode back down to Montdauphin and was lucky to find a train at 9.59 heading south. I went a couple of stops to Chorges to the north of Lac de Serre-Poncon, arriving at 10.37. I had to clamber off the train and drop the bike and panniers to the ground alongside the track, as the rear part of the train didn’t stop by the short platform. This was a bit of a delicate operation as the drop from the train was longer than the length of the bike. I was glad it stopped there for a few minutes. The guard was watching me but didn’t seem to mind. I would have appreciated some help though. Pushed it through the dusty station yard. Once on the road it was a glorious freewheel down to Savings-le-Lac, passing many picnic places by the side of the road looking down to the lake (3544-5). The best point is halfway to the bridge where there’s a great view of the little island with St Michel chapel in the blue bay, a very scenic point. Unfortunately at the point to take the best picture there were two girl hitchhikers in very flimsy outfits and I was too embarrassed to stop, was going to, slowed down, they stared and smiled and I sped up and away, maybe a better picture to take further along. Over the long bridge, a photo of the lake from here (3546) then a right turn away from Savines-le-Lac and uphill back along the south side of the north arm of the lake then right and up to Col de Pontis (photo 3547), a hot ride to Pontis then very steep through a wooded area to emerge at the col with a great view of the lake in all directions and over the top of the Demoiselles coiffees (photos 3548-9), back down again to the see these unusual rocks from below on the road to le Sauze-du-Lac. Stopped at a roadside café and had a hamburger and roll for 39FF and a couple of cans of really cold coke for energy, 12FF each from a machine. Mark would have been proud of me. The road around the lake to Sauze went up further to that point then came a dramatic downhill to Villaret and the end of the lake (photo 3550). The area reminded me of the Negev desert in Israel, it’s so grey and barren. Maybe that’s stretching the imagination but it has that feel about it. On up slowly following the l’Ubaye after that long glide down. I came to le Lauzet-Ubaye and had a short break here. It was a drag up to this point in the heat and carrying the weight, also a bit steep. From here it was easier as the road levelled out. I was hoping to get to Barcelonnette as quickly as possible and was busy looking for landmarks so that I knew how far I had to go. After les Thuiles the road was more level and Barcelonnette was soon reached. It was like coming home. I wondered if my Huddersfield friend from last year would be here. There’s so much to see around this area and I would love to spend a few days here, hopefully with Ruth – but how would we get here? I wandered around the town for an hour looking at the shops. Hotel Cheval was full and I wasn’t surprised. This is the best hotel in the town. The food is good and generous amounts of it, as I found out last year. It’s very popular with cyclists. I asked at the tourist information if there was any type of service supplied for cyclists where couriers would take bags up the passes and deposit them at prearranged points such as hotels. No there wasn’t but there is a possibility there will be a service here in the future – well it was worth asking! I left Barcelonnette at 3.30 and cycled up the mighty Col de la Cayolle in the reverse direction from last year’s circuit from Barcelonnette up the Col d’Allos, Col des Champs and north up the Col de la Cayolle and back to Barcelonnette. The way up this side is easier as the actual climb is only the 9.5 km from Bayasse to the road summit. The first part is a gentle rise through the Gorges du Bachelard. The sun was lower down on the last section making the steep section easier. I took my time going up, as I knew I would need my energy for that last 9.5 km – respecter le col! The Gorges were interesting in this direction as I rushed down through them last year. I had some pain in my feet, put on some muscle cream and after a short rest and some fruit I was OK again. To keep me going I took great delight in stopping at every second kilometre post and noting down the distance to the col, the altitude and the pictured gradient (photo 3552), remembering every other one then writing down the details at the second one. Doing this kept me going on up and I began looking forward to seeing a friendly white face in the distance every kilometre! It kept me amused and the spreadsheet below of the figures gives some idea of the gradient of the climb.
In this way it took me 3 hours and 40 minutes to reach the top – it would have taken me three hours if I didn’t stop to count! Lance Armstrong would have probably done the whole lot in an hour. The markers on the south side of the col are not detailed, just as well as I wasn’t going to stop every kilometre to count them.
I had a stop for 15 minutes at St Laurant for a cold orange juice at the only pub along the road then on to Bayasse. I couldn’t see the Bonnette from this point. One cyclist wrote that it was possible but maybe I was looking in the wrong place. It’s certainly not possible to make out that familiar Doncaster coal stack so I’m sure I wouldn’t see the road. I changed down a few gears from Bayasse as the road now became steeper. There’s hairpins away from Bayasse but I was surprised to find that once above them the road levelled off a bit until I reached the 2114 metre point on the Michelin map, from there it was a steeper climb back over the higher reaches of the waterfall (photo 3551) to the road summit at 7.10. The col summit came easily enough now that it was cooler in the day. I could appreciate the waterfall going up that I only really glanced at last year. I stopped at the top for about ½ an hour. After a few photos (3552-3) and taking in the view, donning helmet and jacket I slipped down the other side of the pass but only as far as Esteng. I stayed at the hotel here; it’s at the source of the Var, the estuary being at Nice. It was 8.00 and time to call it a day. I would enjoy the rest of the descent in the morning sun. I paid 310FF for bed, breakfast and evening meal – 50FF of that was for a large Dutch lager when I arrived – I wish I hadn’t bothered, I could have had free spring water. It was a very pleasant place. The lady reminded me of Sue next door but her son of Mike Christelow – heaven forbid! It was a set meal of vegetable cream soup, then chicken and chips, ice cream and a bottle of red wine. After that I sat in the lounge area on my own as they all went to bed, stayed up watching BBC Cable for an hour. Off to sleep at 12.30
Friday 22nd June 2001, Esteng to Col St Martin,
Mile indicator: 3649 to 3701, 52 miles, 10 hours, 5 m.p.h.
Up at 8.00 and after a really good breakfast of meat, cheese and yogurt and loads of coffee, I was on the road again at 9.15 and enjoyed a long descent in the morning light to Guillaumes. I took a few pictures at Pont St Roch (3554-8) then continued down passing tumbling waterfalls from the west of the road (photo 3559) and over bridges, past the black shale walls above Entraunes to St Martin where I came down from the Col des Champs last year. It took me 40 minutes to reach here. Last year it took me 4 hours to do it in reverse. Passing through St Martin, the road does a few turns below the village here, then along to Ste Marguerite. I took a photo here of the church next to the dry riverbed of the Bourdous and the Chamoussillon mountain beyond (3560). Continuing down to Guillaumes where I stopped to fill up my bags with bananas and orange juice then started the climb back on the Route des Grandes Alpes again for the rest of the day. This was the part I didn’t explore last year, preferring to go over the Bonnette and Lombarde instead. It took me from 11.00 until 1.15 to climb the 13.5 km to Croix de Valberg. It was a hot and sticky ride in the Mediterranean climate. To help me push on up I was counting the kilometre markers again.
Croix de la Valberg, Kilometre markers from Guillaumes to Valberg
I stopped at every second kilometre post and jotted down the distance, height and gradient of that and the last one.
The road is steeper on the lower stretches, the white, rocky landscape glistening in the sun that made the going hard. Eventually St Bres was reached, less steep from here and a fantastic view back down the valley. With the sound of crickets everywhere for the first time on the way up I knew I was nearing the coast, 36 miles away as the crow flies. However, I’m not a crow and it was going to take me a couple more days yet before I entered Nice. I took the usual picture at the road summit, (3561) there’s a viewpoint facing north on the other side of the road but other than that it’s not an inspiring road summit, just a hump in the road at the top. Down the other side about 500 metres and I was in Valberg, a winter resort. I had an omelette, salad and orange juice at an outdoor cafe there while I waited for the tourist information office to open at 2.00. I wanted to have a logbook and chart of the pass gradients of all the passes on the Rue des Grandes Alpes. I only got to know about this yesterday, and it was gratis from the agency.
From Valberg down to Beuil (photo 3562). It’s only a short drop down of 6 km so the way up the Col de Couillole wasn’t so difficult, most of it done in middle gear. There’s a small tourist information place in Beuil at the turn off to the col, a few shops – Beuil itself being further along the road to Gorges du Cains. The road is level from Beuil for about 1 km then a gentle rise up among pine trees, no steep sections. This pass earns its place in the Brevet International Grimpeur list of cols because of the ascent from the east side, up from St Sauveur-sur-Tinee. It’s a long, long way down! The pass is a bit Spartan at the top, totally unlike its Varlberg twin. I took the usual photos between black clad Viennese motorcyclists (3563). There’s a café on a rise just to the south of the road but nothing more. Down the other side, very steep and dangerous in places as there are loose stones on the road. At speed it would be too easy to fall off. The descent is through a rocky gorge. The little chapel of St Sebastian by the side of the road was worth a stop to take a couple of photos of the valley below. The old houses huddled together at Roubion, perched on the hill was an interesting view (photos 3564-5). Down into the gorge to emerge at the Tinnee River at St Sauveur and retrace last years route for a few miles as far as St Jean la Riviere for the climb up Madone d’Utelle. I was hoping to find a shop in St Sauveur but there’s nothing but bars and noisy road works. From here it was a windy ride south as the warm air was blowing up the Tinee gorge. It’s a busy road that I needed to leave as soon as I could. I turned off to the left at la Bollinette for Valdeblore. This road was closed last year because of a cycle race. This is the continuation of the Route des Grandes Alpes. This was a tough one! I suppose it had to be on the Rote des Grandes Alpes. I targeted the turning for Rimplas as the first stopping point on the climb but this took me a long time in the heat. I was panting for about two hours climbing a mere 7 km – then it took me another 2 ½ hours to do the rest. At la Bolline I bought orange juice and filled up my bottles and downed a cold can of iced coke. On to the top with very little energy left at the end of the day. I was hoping to make it to Park Hotel, la Bollene Vesubie on the Col de Turini but that looked doubtful now. There seems to be a big scout complex at the next village, Valdeblore. The main road skirted the village, a long stretch to the last hairpin then another long stretch and the road summit was now in sight. The top is a bit disappointing as there’s a lot of cafes and a nightclub up here. This doesn’t exist on the top of the Turini but I suppose there is a price to pay for close proximity to the coast – Monte Carlo and Nice where the flashy sports cars come from and young chaps want to impress their girls on their mountain roads. Took a couple of photos then thought of getting down to St Marin Vesubie and look for somewhere to stay there as there were no inexpensive hotels at the top of this pass. From up here I could see a long way back across to the Tinee and on to the Vesubie valley in the other direction. I started freewheeling down the other side of the pass and noticed a hotel on the right, about 500 metres from the summit showing reasonable prices. The man in charge resembled a Fred Stanway in character and I warmed to him right away, and he to me. He didn’t speak any English and my French is abysmal but there was conversation and laughs. He told me that nearly every weekend in the summer there was cycle racing going on between Valdeblore and the top of the pass. He also had been a racing cyclist and proud of it. The bed and breakfast cost me 295FF and the evening meal 200FF. I phoned Ruth using the phone card. Caught up with the diary to yesterday and ran out of time. Crashed out at midnight and slept until 8.00am
Saturday 23rd June 2001, Col St Martin to Menton,
Mile indicator: 3702 to 3763, 61 miles, 8 hours, 8 m.p.h.
Once more to the top of the pass after eating a small breakfast, it’s too warm to eat all that bread but had plenty of fruit, yogurt, juice and coffee then I rode the 500 metres to the top, took a couple more photos (3566-7), then freewheeled down the pass at a leisurely speed to take in the views (photos 3568-71). Through St Martin, past the town hall which looks Italian – maybe because all this area and down to the coast was once part of Italy. Further down the valley to Roquebilliere, slight diversion over the Vesubie river bridge to the village. I it’s just a long straight street, nothing really of any interest, and to top it all there was another road works going on the end of the road where I nearly came a cropper on the loose stones. On rejoining the Col de Turini road at les Combes I had now completed the whole route of the Route des Grandes Alpes. On reaching Lantosque further down the valley I relived the memories at the patisserie there where I bought cold drinks to keep me going to the Park Hotel at la Bollene Vesubie. At the time I thought I was going to be cycling up and over the Col de Turini before finding somewhere to stay as the lady in the shop said there were no hotels on my route, only in Roquebilliere. I took me an hour to get here from my stay on Col St Martin so it would have been too late to reach here as planned. Further down through the gorge following the Vesubie River I was in St Jean la Riviere to attempt the Madone d’Utelle, approached over the river bridge where I left my bags at the ‘La Poste’. The 15 km climb is hot and sticky when there’s no cover from the sun, which was now blazing down. There are 20+ hairpins to the top with a brief respite at Utelle before climbing further for the brick red building of the chapel standing alone, stark against the white rock shimmering in the sun. There’s a great view from the top along the Var to Nice in the distance. Back down again the same way, a rough road down to St Jean then up again on the fork to the left after the village. This goes up to what was my grand finale, the Belvedere du Saut des Francais, a stiff climb up through the woods and following the cliffs above the Vesubie road left well down below. This was a fitting end to the passes of the last 10 days and the heat was becoming unbearable. Loyal subjects to the Revolution would prove their allegiance to the cause by jumping to their deaths from this height, shouting ‘saute pour la Republique’ To die for your country is one thing but to sacrifice yourself by command to prove loyalty is quite another. You wouldn’t catch anyone ‘falling for this one’ nowadays. This is engraved in a plaque in the rock:
“Duranes. Le sant des Francais la tradition veut qu’a partir de 1793. Des voluntairs Francais des armies revolututionnaires ayant ete faits prisonniers durent sauter dans ce precipice sur l’ordre de ‘saute pour la republique’ donne par les barbets qui defendaient leur territoire du Comte du Nice. Apres bein des vicissitudes le Reime Republicain est devenu le notre. 1993 Bicentenaire du premier rattachement du Comte du Nice a la France”
From this rocky height over the Vesubie Gorge the road plunges from 605 to 355 metres and it seemed I was heading for the gorge but then came the climb away from the gorge and over a rise into Levens. Just after this was les Traverses, the top of this road. From here it was all downhill to Nice. A got a quip from some lads that Le Tour starts in Paris and I was heading the wrong way. I pointed to my baggage and pointed out that I’m going this way, I’m an escapee. On then toward Nice, the city didn’t come into view until I was in the town streets as there are hills, Mt Chauve and Mt de l’Ibac, along the road blocking the view toward the coast. Through Tourrette-Levens, the last mountain village, finally through a gorge that’s totally ruined by quarrying before reaching St Andre on the outskirts of the city. Then came the very busy roads into the city and to the seafront at 3.00pm. I wanted to head straight in from Vesubie as there was no way I was going to attempt Mt Vial to the west, a twin over the Var from Madone l’Utelle. I had planned to complete the tour by riding the passes north of Grasse then to Nice via Cannes but I have had enough for one tour, having traversed 40 passes, 32 of these listed as Brevette International Grimpeur cols for the collection, bringing my total to 138 in all. I found a seat and lazed in the sun for a long time. Later I wandered off along the coast, through Eze. I couldn’t see the old village from the coast where I was last year. On through Cap d’Ail to Monaco. I pushed my bike up the steps to the palace and mooched around there for a while. I was asked to move on by a white suited Monasque policeman as I was riding my bike in front of the palace – last year the same happened to me in front of Monte Carlo casino (photo 3572) but then I was also given a ticking off for being inappropriately dressed. Not all visitors approach the casino in cycle shorts and shoes and nothing else – so they don’t like cyclists! I’m glad the French do. I was told to continue on downhill and leave the palace area. I was promptly planning to do just that. Down to la Condamine, the port area. There’s now an open-air swimming pool there – now that lot are inappropriately dressed! I struggled up the hill from the harbour in the wrong gear, did a circuit of a peculiar road system at the frontier and made my way toward Menton, bypassing Cap Martin and down into Menton at 5.00pm. I had difficulty finding a hotel, they were all full. I finally found one at 390FF and parked my bike in the room, which was just along the corridor from the reception. I went out to a supermarket down the road for some gifts to take home and food for the journey. After a shower and change I sat on the roof garden, caught up with the diary and read with a bottle of Leffe Belgian beer bought in the supermarket. I later went out for a meal at 9.00, had fish soup, spaghetti and steak and ice cream and a bottle of wine from a restaurant along the seafront. Thoroughly satisfied and merry I slept very well at midnight.
Sunday 24th June 2001, Menton to Liverpool Airport, Liverpool Airport to Holmes Chapel. Mile indicator: 3764 to 3790, 26 miles.
I had a lie in until 9.30 and out of the hotel at 10.00. I didn’t want to buy an expensive breakfast and later bought some yoghurt and fruit from a supermarket. I sat on the seafront under the umbrellas and had a coffee and whiled away some time before setting off for Nice again. It’s just 24 miles from Menton to Nice (photo 3573); the other 2 miles were from Liverpool Airport to Hunts Cross station. The Easyjet flight (photo 3574) was 40 minutes late leaving but I had ample time to prepare the bike for its return. I only needed to let the tyres down and take the pedals off. I finished off food from my bags then let them both go in the hold. I only needed a book, camera and some food and money in a plastic bag. I bought duty free (4 litres of Pernod) and waited. Flying back over the Alps was quite something because the sky was so clear and it was possible to make out many of the roads I had been over. The flight path went further west over Lyon then directly north over Paris. I was the last to leave baggage collection at Liverpool. Although my bags were some of the first on the merry go round I had to wait a while for the bike to appear. At about 7.30pm I was on my way to Hunts Cross station and caught a train into Liverpool Lime Street and caught the last Central train service out to Crewe that night. As I always have an incident on returning home I wasn’t taking any chances of broken chains or motorway madness this year. I would take the train all the way home. I relaxed in the knowledge that I had a connecting train at Crewe to get back home but then I went to the toilet…. I tried to open the door to get out and the handle came off in my hand! I banged on the wall, thinking the worst. Here I was, locked in here as the door opened inwards and there was no way to prise it open – my bike was outside and I could lose it. I had visions of ending up in Birmingham carriage sheds for the night, minus bike that somebody will be the proud new owner of. The contents of the panniers would be an added bonus with 4 bottles of Pernod and a couple of credit cards. I was eventually heard and let out. I requested the guard to put an out of order notice on it as once shut it was impossible to get out.
Caught my connection at Crewe, arriving home at 11.30 to a very warm welcome from Ruth.