Wednesday 22nd June 2005 Holmes Chapel to Luton airport (for Bratislava)
Leaving home at 20.40 and departing from Crewe at 21.25 I arrived in Euston at midnight dozing off on the train but no worries as that’s the end of the line. From there I rode to Kings cross Thameslink for the 01.35 train to Luton airport Parkway then put the bike on the 10 minute shuttle to the airport at 01.45. I had a sleep in the departure area but it was a bit noisy with announcements for safety and security every 15 minutes. Even if the voice was a sweet one I’m sure it was designed to keep out vagrants looking for a peaceful night’s sleep in a warm area. I tied up the bike for security and peace of mind while I dozed.
Thursday 23rd June 2005 Luton to Melk, Austria
I had a good airport breakfast at 06.00 when the cafés opened, cost me a whopping £7.95, however it was filling and kept me contented for the rest of the morning. The check-in opened at 08.30 and had the bike apart and bagged before then, it took about ¾ of an hour. I also had my pannier bags that I placed in an old post office bag and tied it up with a drawstring through the top loops of the bag. I placed it on a trolley and wheeled it to the check-in then had to take it all to the oversize check-in for x-ray and said goodbye to it all with music of Chris de Burgh. It was on its way to Bratislava – I hoped! I had a wander across to the chapel to commit the holiday to God’s care, and my safety. It was peaceful in there and stayed in total silence for half an hour. Out into the bright sunshine and sunbathed at a bench opposite the departures entrance. Later I passed through the customs at 09.00. I had wandered around too much because I heard the final call for my flight at 10.10. The scheduled departure was at 10.40 but had enough time. I joined the queue at the departure gate that hadn’t yet moved so no worries. I took a photo of my bike going on to the plane and another of the plane before walking up the steps to the aircraft. The plane took off on time and I had a window seat on the right in front of the wing. There was one seat vacant in the centre, a girl sitting at the aisle, she was Slovakian. The pilot announced we would be flying at 30000 feet and would pass over the English Channel at Brighton then over Koln, following the Rhein then over Frankfurt, Munich and Vienna and would arrive in Bratislava 15 minutes ahead of schedule as the weather was good the whole way and we had a vacant slot ahead of time in Bratislava for landing. In Bratislava I was out of the airport at 15.15. As the carousel wasn’t working there was a mad scramble for the cases. My bike was one of the last items to come through. EasyJet took good care of it. The only accident was that my chain had come off but really no problem to thread it back on. I took a while to untangle the string from around bike and pannier bags, re-assemble the bike then change in the loos for the ride to Bratislava rail station. I was told at the airport information desk that I had 12km to cycle to reach the city centre but soon found out it was only 6km to the rail station. The roads were dusty, busy and noisy with trucks, trams and buses. The station was hard to find. Equally hard was trying to understand the train departure boards. I finally found out from the ticket office and was given a timetable then all was made clear. I had a train at 16.32 going to Vienna, arriving in at 17.47. There was a passport control at Marchegg. I passed the time talking to an American girl on the train. Later I cycled across Vienna passing Schonbrunn Palace and finding Westbahnhof station for the 19.03 train to Passau but got off well before that. I was a bit confused right at the start and somehow had missed a turning for Melk so biked back 9km and found a room there for the night. I tried for the youth hostel but couldn’t get a place there as it was taken by a large school group but then would I have really wanted to? The trip distance today was 42.79km, overall distance 3721. Distance at the start was 3685km. the height at Melk on my altitude reading is 190m. Total ride time 2hours 46 minutes, average speed 16kph, max speed 42.50kph. Trip alti reading 290m, max alti reached 239m, average climb 3%, and max climb 10%. Total alti 31932m. I didn’t cycle much today. I had bread, cheese and tomato with a beer for tea and stayed at Hotel Goldenes Ochs, 25€ bed and breakfast. Total with meal and drinks 36.20€, £28.80
Friday 24th June 2005 Melk to Schromenau, Austria
Away from the hotel at 09.15 to the top of BIG 663 Jauerling 961 metres Franz Josefs Home on stone to the top at 10.30, slight dip at Maria Laatsch then the pass a short distance up to the top, marked by stones on the left of the road where it becomes a track. Down a bit to Donaublick (closed section). Collected bags from the hotel then went for the 12.15 train to St Polten.
St Polten is a busy place, however quiet through Altmansdorf and Ochenberg, to rejoin main road south of St Georgen for Traisen and called in at Aldi store to stock up (locally known as Hofer), on to Rainfeld along a windy road, blowing N.E.E. which is fortunate as I’m generally heading S.W to Rainfeld then south along an easy road, very little up to Kleinzell then turned right where the climbing begins for BIG 675 Ebenwald- Parkplatz. It was a tough ride up on a hot day; four hairpins and more curves on the way then up through the woods with a clearing near the top. An inglorious end with a resemblance to la Redoute in Belgium- though much higher. At 1000 metres at Ebenwald Haus I carry on a little to where the road ends. Down a bit then left at a white farm building, through a gate then up a little way to Ebenwald, distance 7km from Kleinzell. I took some photos then returned the same way, took 10 minutes down but an hour to climb up. I by-passed Rainfeld by taking a right turn and continued along a very windy main road through Hainfeld then a long way up to a place where a pub marks the top – at Kollmannhof. Down from here to Kaumberg, bought some orange juice from Bella supermarket, through Altenmarkt now heading east, turned right through Weissenbach. There a plenty of places to stay here alongside the river but I wanted to continue to Furth and look for accommodation there, none to be had so back 2km to Schromenau where there was only one place to stay on the inside corner of the main street. I had weinerschnitzel for tea and two beers, had a shower and caught up with the diary.
Trip distance 151.42km, current altitude 415 metres, ride time 8 hours 21 minutes, average speed 18.10 kph, max speed 106kph, overall distance 3812 km, trip alti 2081 metres, max alti 1000m, average climb 5%, max climb 23%, total altitude 24299 metres, top elevation 2762
Saturday 25th June 2005 Schromenau to Prein.
09.00 to 17.50 and 18.15 to 19.15 I took the wrong way out! To the village, to Furth, back under the barrier and a sweaty climb up the Hocheck BIG 668. No stops following another cyclist that I was determined not to lose as he would drag me to the top. I had a coke at the top house to cool down, 2.20€. Through the woods and a clearing near the top and back down in 20 minutes to Schromenau. I collected my bags, turned left then a left fork to Steinwandklamm track up to Atz and came a cropper on the way up- pulled a leg muscle but the pain soon went off but had to lie in the dust for a while. From Atz, approached by path from the right, middle road to Thal then a long sweep down to Pernitz. I took a right from Pernitz (west) to Gutenstein which was soon reached and also the road to Klostertal. Deceptive on the map the road to the Roher Sattel BIG 667 isn’t far in comparison – but it is! Sharp bends near the end after another hour in the saddle, another long sweaty ride to the top. Nothing to take photos of, mountains in full view to the west. Back down to Gutenstein and just missed the 13.22 train so rode east on along a windy valley with a strong east wind to Markt Piesting, then right turn through Dreistetten. The sky darkened, car lights were on and faint rumblings of thunder were heard in the distance over the Hohe Wand. It was risky but at Muthmansdorf I took a right for Stockhof then Maiersdorf and up to the Hohe Wand BIG 669 in the rain but at least it was cool. It was only light rain even though it was thunder and lightning. It was only 3km to the top along the toll road; cyclists don’t pay and puts a stop to many motorists wanting to come up here. The rain was now becoming worse as well as the lightening which by now was scary so opted to leave the mountains and head east to Weikersdorf, then south for 10km to Neunkirchen. My luck was in; as I entered the town I saw the station and a train was drawing in heading for Payerbach to the south west so dived on it before the weather turned really bad. On board I ate a bit in preparation for the next pass climb and off at Payerbach 15 minutes later, cost 1.60€. I biked out nursing a sore backside to a road junction after passing through Reichenau, an historic place favoured by Franz Josef and the old Austrian royal family for genteel walks around the town – a bit like Matlock or Royal Leamington Spa. I took a left for Edlach where I was busy placing Vaseline on delicate spots when a nun passed by on her bike. I saw her handlebars waiver a bit. I tried for accommodation at Dorfl – no go – a bit expensive anyway at 48€. I continued on to Prein, 6km from Reichenau and found a gasthof where they make their own organic food. The accommodation was 26€ including breakfast. I left the bags there and cycled the 8km up the road pass Preiner Gscheid, BIG 670. This wasn’t difficult, especially with no weight to carry. It took me 45 minutes from 18.15 to 19.00. The Rohrer Sattel was harder earlier on but then it was in the heat of the day with pannier bags to weigh me down. For the pass this evening it was cool after the rain. I said ‘prosim’ to some Czechs up there who had just arrived by an old Czech coach (charabanc?) I put extra clothing on for a fast downhill and following a car and in 15 minutes I was back down to Prein. I noticed that the road at the side of the hotel goes to Semmering, so must take this road tomorrow. It wasn’t on the map but this was a quicker way to tomorrow’s climb, the Sonnwendstein Alp. The meal in the hotel this evening was interesting- ham, potatoes, vegetables, apple sauce, garlic and mushroom spread with bread 8.00€ and paid 2.50€ each for two Seigl beers and 26€ for the accommodation. A wedding party arrived and the place became very noisy. I retreated upstairs with my drink and caught up with the diary at 20.30, and so to bed.
Trip distance 131.15km or 82 miles, current altitude 624m, ride time 8 hours 23 minutes, average speed 15.60kph, maximum speed 57kph, overall distance total 4003km, trip alti 2255m, max alti 1060m, average climb 5%, total altitude 34187m, top elevation 1905
Sunday 26th June 2005 Prein to Weiz A day of four passes to catch up – and at the end of the day I was absolutely shattered. I had a ride up to Orthof with some interesting company, a girl from the hotel last night. Setting off at 08.15 to Orthof, climbing all the way on a lane then joining the road up from Reichenau. Said goodbye to the girl at parting of the ways then a long downhill to Breitenstein then uphill under the railway viaduct. There was a train going over. Eventually I was into Semmering but took the wrong turning on to a main road so turned back, up and to the head of the pass at Semmering Kurort. From there the way was left, and then right then 2nd left on to a surfaced track for 3.5km to the top of Sondwendstein BIG 671. I left the bags at a café at the bottom after buying a coffee there. Back down and along the cycle track to the north of the main road into Styria (Steirmark) at Steinhaus to the south west. It was easy going at first along the road to Pfaffen Sattel. Soon past Grouchnitz then the climbing began at 11% and continuous all the way. I had a great deal of trouble with pesky flies buzzing around the handlebars. I could do with a portable shower fitted to the bike to keep the sweat and heat down and drown the creatures. I had a Spritzer apple juice at the top of the Pfaffen Sattel at 12.30 then made my way up the steep and slightly stony dusty track to Stuhleck, Big 672. In 4km I climbed from 1368m to 1782m so a steep climb with no jauser station. I fell off the bike! It was rather dangerous coming down with 32mm tyres and slipped on the stones. Back down to Pfaffen Sattel and a long glide down to Rettenegg then slightly down all the way to Fischbach stream then right up to Fischbach village. It was very steep but perhaps the easiest way to get up the Auf der Schanz BIG 673. It was steep for 3km and had a great deal of trouble with swarming flies again. I left the bags hidden beside the road behind trees and made it to the top easily. There were no markings at the top. Just to be sure I really was there I continued for another kilometre but now I could see the mountains to the west so knew I was over the hill (speak for yourself). Back down and collected the bags. A slight up again after Fischbach but a long way down after that to Birkfeld. I was a bit confused in the small town but eventually found the road to Gasen and Auf dem Straβegg BIG 674. I left the bags at a café after buying a magnum ice cream. It was very steep up to this point, and very warm. A slight downhill then up gradually to Gasen. I stopped for another ice cream, Lion – hot work! I asked there how far to the top and was told 5km. it was easy as far as Gasen but then climbing but not so difficult at 11%, three hairpins on the way up. I was told in the information office, Gosen that a party was happening on the street this evening. Some party! Complete with the Austrian oompah band, the full works. I had a sausage and beer and friendly clink of glasses with the locals – didn’t need language! A large marquee and an open shed housed the band and the eats. A large beer was 2.20€ (£1.80) so quite cheap. I took photos and one of the height markers with me then down the mountain at 18.30, arriving in Birkfeld at 19.00 to collect my bags. There are no train stations nearby so down from Schroberkogel where I left the bags on the south road to the main road, just south of Birkfeld. From there down to Weiz through Angir. Weiz was a long time coming with some hilly bits after Anger but otherwise a good road and a god speed up most of the way, arriving in Weiz at 20.30 just as the sun was setting. I found the train station and checked times of trains for tomorrow – 06.15 or 09.19 to Graz. I might catch the 09.19 then on to Deutschlandersberg or Wolfsberg for the next pass climbs. The hotel in Weiz was difficult to find but asked at a bar and was directed. The room was 36€ (£25) including breakfast. I had a mousaka in the town and a beer (9.50€) then back to the hotel. I caught up with the diary and rang home at 22.30.
Trip distance 157km or- 98 miles, current altitude 459 metres, ride time 10 hours 18 minutes, average speed 15.20kph, maximum speed 62 kph, overall distance 4160 km, trip altitude 3137m, max alti 1433m, average climb 5%, max climb 17%, total alti 27436m
Trip distance 116km, current altitude 545 metres, ride time 6 hours 34 minutes, average speed 17.60kph, maximum speed 58kph, overall distance 4277km, trip altitude 1427 metres, max alti 1184 metres (1216 actual), average climb 3%, max climb 18%, total alti 35615 metres, top elevation 1905
Tuesday 28th June 2005 Bad Eisenkappel to Althofen
Thought today would be straight forwards, how wrong I was! Set off to the west at 09.30 up to the Eisenkapplerhutte BIG 660, a sweaty and fly filled ride, despite insect cream. Maybe they’re a special strain that have developed immunity to cyclists. Bites on my left leg, even after a heavy dose spraying – try praying. I arrived at the top no problem, a little lighter, having been eaten on the way. It took me 2 hours 09.30 to 11.30 and got somebody to take photos of me posing at the wooden café. I drank some apple juice and bought some postcards with the stamps and got them to put the ink rubber stamp on with the pass logo. It wasn’t possible to continue the further 5km to the mountain top of Hochobir as the track was too stony – walkers only. It also becomes a steep footpath however it’s possible to ride and reach the gap between Minichoutz and Hochobir mountains, 3km on but no further- an extra section to reach about 1800 metres. I mounted the bike on the stones and a single stone caught in my tyre, between tyre and rim but wasn’t aware and as I rode off back down over a cattle grid. With the pressure on the rear tyre it pushed the stone into the tube and there was loud bang! It was a long walk back down to Bad Eisenkappel, 16km or 10 miles. I was hot and shattered when I got back at 13.00 but I managed to hitch a lift with the bike for the last few kilometres. The hotel keeper from last night at Hotel Besser rang round to find a bike shop as there was none in this area. The nearest garage would have to buy me one in – could take a couple of days! No way! I asked if he could find the nearest bike shop – nearest was at Bleiburg 18km away. He gave me a lift there but cost me 30€ plus another 3€ for a new tyre and tube- £42 in all but it saved the holiday. The metal rim inside the tyre wall was exposed by the stone pressure. Great views though walking down the mountain on the road, can say that I know it well! The wheel was fixed and then a hot ride to Volkermarkt Stausee, part of the Drau River. I shopped at Aldi Hofer for milk and yoghurt – devoured the yogurt! First I rode to Sankt Magdalena then steeply up through backstreets to Volksmarkt Zentrum, rode along to Aich then down to Mittertrixen then up a way to Obertrixen then a long sweep down to Bruckl to the Klagenfurt road, north east of the city. From here turned south to Klagenfurt along a busy open road as far as Pischeldorf then to the right and up a couple of kilometres where it started raining. It was raining a little this morning also on my way down from Eisenkappelhutte but like now, only briefly. A whole side of a hillside has been quarried here. There were trucks plying back and to along the road. I turned right for Magdalensberg after a steady rise all the way. It was another 6km to the church where I could see the hill to the right. I thought it was about the same height up as Mow Cop but the church is bigger and it’s about five times as far but just as steep. I could see why this was in the list of BIG’s. Magdalensberg BIG 658 is even steeper at the top. I left the bags just west of Magdalensburg village behind a tree, marked the position on the road with a twig so that I didn’t go past on the way down – hoping nobody would move the twig- or the bags! They were completely out of sight behind foliage. I continued up a further 5km. there’s a one kilometre marking on the road but this was only to the car park to the Ausgrabungen and it was a further 900 metres very steeply up to the gipfel. I had an apple juice and soda and freshened up and had a look inside the chapel. I took the usual photos at the summit marker then down ¾ of an hour later at 18.30. Down to the main road after retrieving my bags and reached St Veit rail station at 19.15 and caught a train at 19.32 north to Althofen as St Veit doesn’t look an interesting place to stay. At Althofen to Treibach by the Gurk River and up the steep hill into Althofen old town, past a four star hotel that I wasn’t going to give a look at, and up further to an old inn. I asked in faltering best German for a room but Liz, the owner replied in English. “How do you know I’m English?” “By the way you try to speak German!” it turned out she’s Canadian from Vancouver. Her father is Austrian and mother English. The inn is an old rambling house. She’s into left wing politics and ‘green’ conscious. She told me there is an English community living here as a co-operative. On her shelves she had Bill Bryson books, music taste ranging from Sound of Music to ‘I married an Axe Murderer!’ – great taste. For tea I had lasagne and oiled salad followed by apfel strudel – great! It was eggs and bacon for breakfast in the morning. Don’t forget washing – 2 pairs of shorts, socks and a top washed. Tonight I had three beers and a pot of good English tea, Bed at midnight.Hopefully tackle the Klippitztorl in the morning to bag another BIG. This was 25km, 16 miles away to the east. Trip distance 92.37km, 58 miles. Correct altitude at Althofen 711 metres, ride time 7 hours 22 minutes, average speed 12.50kph (good considering I walked a great deal), maximum speed 55.50kph, overall distance total 4369km, trip altitude 1976 metres, max alti 1508metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 17%, total alti 39413 metres, top elevation 2762
Wednesday 29th June 2005 Althofen to Mariazell
What a breakfast – hot sausages, beans, fried egg, scallop potatoes and toast, very nice but all a bit too much. How am I going to cycle with that belly full? Well I didn’t have to eat it! With plenty of coffee and orange juice she did me proud! I had slept well during the night but the alarm went off at 05.00! Soon went back to sleep. I didn’t leave until 09.10 this morning, mein host kept me. I left the bags behind, just took one pannier with essentials. I set off east and downhill, nearly took the wrong turning and going up to Guttaringburg. Back down through village and right past the four star hotel – mine was much better. From there up a stretch then down a long sweep to Guttaring. There was road works there. The entire road was up so had to be careful going up again then down into Mosel. I thought I had arrived here so quickly, about 40 minutes and that the Klippitztorlhutte, BIG 657 would be approx one hour but in reality it took me two. It was very steep, especially after passing through Lolling-Graben. The flies were a nuisance again, despite spraying insect repellent on exposed skin. A few hairpins near the top followed by a long sweep clockwise circuit across the mountainside. I could see the top after the last hairpins at about 3km distant. I reached the road summit at 11.30 and asked a motorcyclist parked there to take a photo of me at the summit plate. I took another just in case his photo was rubbish! Back down the mountain at a fast pace and returned the same way, returning to the Althofen guest house at 12.30. Liz left a note to say that she had gone out and to help myself to anything I wanted so had an orange juice and two beers that I pulled from the tap – that was a pleasure to do. More talking when she came back. She was telling me about the chemical industry in the village. The inventor of Osram long life gas lighting, some more gassing then I said goodbye and made off down the hill and just caught the 13.32 train by the skin of my teeth. I arrived in Bruck am der Mur 2.½ hours later on another train after changing at Kapfenburg and this was an immediate connection. There was no charge for this as I was with two elderly cyclists – but then probably not much older than me – but they looked it – wrinklies! They escorted me from Kapfenburg station a short way and put me on the right road for Aflenz Kurort to the north. Most of the way I enjoyed the safety of a cycle track that’s new so the wrinklies told me. It was a very good surface after about 2km from Kapfenburg and continues all the way to Aflenz. I turned off for Folz and followed the valley along and is mainly flat along Folzgraben. It becomes a track after the first bridge crossing the stream. I continued along to the jausenstation. It was a very stony surface from here on and only possible to ride with mountain bikes so turned back. I could reach Burgeralm this way but it would be difficult. Falzklamm before this is reached over laid logs and boarding. The Klamm is similar to one that Helmut and I explored near Bled in Slovenia some years ago. I felt a bit nervous walking back down along the logs as they were spaced apart, slippy and nowhere to hold on to. Below was the water torrent through the Klamm. I could come to no danger though. The worst that could happen is if I had a slip and slide down – but what if I lost my glasses between the logs? Risky! I took some notes along the way:
866 Alpinsteig, Hans Leitner durch das gross zugige entegegen kommen der buraerlichen forst und almgemeinschaft aflenz und den dankenswerten einsatz der soldaten des cursr55 der kaserne St Michael sowie der unterstutzung des iserkersvereines Aflenz Kurort wurde dieser Alpinsteig im sommer 1992. Erricht diese roste fur welche man CA 2 stunde gezheit. Benotigt fuhrt vom Schwabenbartl (814 metres), uber Feldbaum und Ahornreigl (1550m)
Das wasser ist sohell und klar, gluck gluck!
Sein alter ist veil tausand jahr, gluck gluck!
Man Kannt’es schon im paradies, gluck gluck!
Dir dirtigen simmerkt os wundersuls, gluck zum nachdenken!
Das wasser ist fur mensch und tier die groβste gottesgaβe,
huten und pflegen, wires, damit, wir immer genug haben
(Die stmk. Berg und Naturwacht)
It started getting dark then thunder started in the distance. It couldn’t be darkness yet as it was only 18.30. Back to the main road and now the weather turned cold. A real heavy storm was brewing. I continued thinking I wouldn’t have far to go to reach Mariazell, but how wrong I was! Uphill to Aflenz and up further to Burgeralm proper as I was mistaken with the road through Folz. About 5km further and the road climb was not too difficult, the bad weather held out and I reached Windgrube BIG 666 (ah, that’s a bad omen!). Back to the main road, uphill to Jauring and down to Au when the heavens opened –ow! It was a good thing really I thought as I was nearing Mariazell but I took shelter quickly in a bus shelter. An Austrian lady in the shelter waiting for a bus burst my bubble – and reality did me a favour when she told me I still had 20km to go before Mariazell and the storm was really fierce. I couldn’t cycle on in that. A stroke of good fortune as the lady told me that the bus was due in three minutes. I bundled the bike aboard and it was the best 4.40€ spent today as the actual distance, I found out, was 28km or 18 miles and mainly uphill over the Seeberg Pass. The rain was really thrashing down and the sky very dark. There was no way I could have made it over here and into Mariazell before midnight. That lady may have been an angel unawares. The bus arrived in Mariazell at 19.50 and I found a room for the night at Gasthof Jagerwirt just below the twin towered church in the centre of the town. I had a look around when the storm eased then went for a meal at a pizzeria next to the gasthaus. I had pasta al forno with side salad and two Edelweiss beers, wrote the diary in there then back to the room. In the town I saw a sign indicating the following main places of pilgrimage: Lourdes, Loreto, Fatima, Czestochowa, Altotting, Mariazell.
Trip distance 88.76km, current altitude at Mariazell 921 metres, Ride time 6 hours, average speed 14.60kph, maximum speed 65kph, overall distance total 4458km, trip alti 1913 metres, max alti 1650 metres, average climb 5%, max climb 16%, total altitude 37529 metres, top elevation 1905.
Thursday 30th June 2005 Mariazell to Bischofshofen
Mariazell to Admont then by train to Bischofshofen. Usual bland breakfast of muesli, yogurt, bread and meat. I was away at 08.45 via Erlaufsee. I asked at a garage for directions. I took a right out of Mariazell, right again then 1km along to the left to Erlaufsee. This was a good route as the only climbing involved was half an hour stint from the main road for approx 5km on a newly surfaced road, I bought a postcard at the top of Zellerain BIG 665 and took photos at the height marker plate then donned helmet for the descent. It was a blow back and the wind was really strong. Soon though I was on the long descent and could see why this is marked as a BIG but now it was conquered. This is the more difficult side up but I was on the descent that leads to Lunz. Lower down there was a slight rise before the Grubberg BIG 664 turn-off, rocks on the right going west. Soon reached the Grubberg turn off. This is an easy ascent, not really worth calling it a BIG from this direction, however if approaching from Lunz it’s quite a stiff climb. At the top the BIG is marked only by a pole with two brown metal plates. One says Grubberg. The indication is inconspicuous in the wooded area. It took me less than an hour to reach the top. Later, at the northern foot, I turned left on to the main road then steeply down to Lunz. I took a quick diversion to see the lake, nothing special. Back to the main road, up a bit then down to Gostling at 11.50. I bought some milk and asked at the tourist information office for information on the Hochbar then a gradual up from Gostling to just before Lassing then took a left to begin the climb of Hochkar BIG 652. I left the bags hidden in the woods at the first tree on the left – cows getting excited as they thought they were being fed – told them to watch the bags and moo loudly if it’s not me. I strapped the essentials under my bike helmet on to the rack then up the pass. It was a 10km ride to the top, crowned by a skiing village. There was a huge open tarmac car space. I went as far as the road ended above the large hotels. I noticed a track for mountain bikers going up away from the road to the left but after my bad experience at the Eisenkappelhutte I wasn’t going to risk the challenge. I took the usual photos, a true BIG this one. My hands were numb holding on to the brakes descending the pass later, coupled with a rain shower that made it colder. I reached the foot of the climb at 15.00 and began to slow up. I made the mistake of heading for the first bahnhof indicated at Spaner but the station was a long way down at 22% incline and found out there was no train from this station – so back up and on into Gams. I reached the river bridge at Lainbach and could see the station a long way down. Down then up again. Out of Gams although steep, down to Hilflau but it was now 17.00. No train from here until 19.02 so cycled the 24km to Admont to catch the train there, reaching Admont at 18.30. More downs than ups heading west along the valley of the Enns – Ennstal. I bought some cheese and crisps etc from a supermarket then boarded the same train from Hieflau that was leaving here at 19.29. I went to have beer then to the station for the short 14 minute trip to Selzthal at 19.42, 20km. The road west to Admont is steep out of Heiflau then plenty of ups and downs – mainly ups. Away from the town as far as Gstatterboden. The whole village road system was being relaid. I was glad to reach Admont in gentler countryside. I then waited for the 20.19 train to Bischofshofen, arriving there at 21.47. Once there I looked around for a hotel quickly. The police on the street told me where to go – nicely – after seeing me without lights. I’d left them in the panniers.
Hieflau 16.56 18.53 Table 977 Thomas Cook timetable
Selzthal 17.39 19.39
Selzthal 17.45 19.45 Selzthal Intercity 2019 20.40
Schladming 20.49 Bischofshofen 21.47 22.37
Bischofshofen 19.41
Trip distance 138km, current altitude 591 metres, ride time 8 hours 29 minutes, average speed 16.20kph, maximum speed 59kph, overall distance total 4596km, trip alti 2245 metres, current altitude 1823 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 16%, total altitude 32658 metres, top elevation 2762 metres.
Friday 1st July 2005 Bischofshofen to Kitzbuhel
Gasthof Rathauswert 34€. Breakfast the usual bread, meat, cheese but the bread was too dry. I set off at 08.45. It rained most of today. I set off for Muhlbach to the south west, a gradual up with full rainwear on but the rain made it cooler so quite comfortable in gortex trousers and new red top from Halfords, fully waterproof and breathable so I wasn’t sweating. Up to Arthur Haus BIG 632 on the Hochkeil and some very steep sections, turning right (north) from Muhlbach. I left my bags at a house at the end of a post. Hairpins at the edge of Muhlbach. It was much easier now, still raining – and it became worse. After the hairpins a long straight stretch under trees, this was steep. I passed a wooden house called Hochkeilhaus then there was a final steep section, reaching the top in ¾ of an hour. There are mountain paths here onward and is possible to cycle but they’re stony paths. I decided to turn back when I reached the car park. I had a coffee and rum in Arthur Haus, bought a postcard with the pass stamp on it. I asked for some free plastic overshoes as I needed them, used them for the rest of the day. Hopefully won’t be needing them tomorrow as the forecast is for better weather. I set off back downhill; it was a bit tricky as the road was wet. I collected my bags from the house – Fremenheim and rejoined the main road and headed for Dientner Sattel, BIG 630 not far to the west. Sudden change of cadence as I was going uphill again, not much at first but just outside Muhlbach at an unhelpful direction sign showing kilometre indications to many places around the world including one to Alpha Centuri. Never get to bike that distance, but maybe in Heaven! It was a long drag up the 13km to Dietner Sattel but arrived sooner than expected. After the long drag and veering to the right, a brief respite then an unusual hump as the road could just as easily go to the left, but on the hump are two buildings. The one on the right, the Berghaus, was closed – Ruhtag Heute but the one on the left was open and asked for soup – bacon dumpling in mushroom with a salad and a Radler beer with lemon, non alcoholic – served by a 60+ paternal figure. This helped me down the pass and up the following short climb, the Filzensattel, an unremarkable summit. There was no restaurant there, in fact nothing but a small car parked by an electric pylon. It was a long descent from here to Saalfelden, steep at first. I asked at the tourist office there about the weather forecast for tomorrow – it was OK. Plenty of nuts and crisps gratis in there so helped myself! For somewhere to stay I was recommended the Griesel die Gaststuβe for rustic atmosphere, music and great food, mainly pizzas. There was also a model train-set going around the restaurant just under the ceiling. I ate there but didn’t want to stay. Instead took a train from Saalfelden at 16.02 after ½ an hour wait. This would take me to Kitzbuhel, arriving at 16.46. From the station I cycled straight on then left on the main road and next right (on a one-way system the wrong way!), into the town. I spotted the tourist information office on the right and asked about a room for the night. I was directed to a small guest house on the outskirts on the way to the Kitzbuheler Horn, cost 37€ bed and breakfast. Evelyn, the owner, offered for me to leave my bags at the house and I catch the train tomorrow to Zell am See to cycle the Grossglockner. It was only 17.30 and said I wanted to go to the Kitzbuheler Horn BIG 620 – she looked doubtful and I found out why later! At 18.00 I was at the foot of the climb but it took me until 19.30 to reach the top, mainly in the rain on the upper section though it was dry lower down in the valley. I started off in shorts and vest but needed to put my rainwear on higher up. For the descent later it was full garb. I took some photos at the top. It was a dangerous descent on a wet road and extremely steep. It was to date the most challenging BIG that I’ve attempted. At the bottom I needed new brake blocks – I had them pulled tight on all the way down. I was also extremely cold and wet, my hands were numb. I needed to get back to the guest house for a shower and change of clothing. Evelyn had looked out for me at 20.30 and was concerned for my safety. It was nice to think the concern was genuine and she may have sent the police out if I didn’t return soon. Although it only took me half an hour to get down the Kitzbuheler Horn it was a hair raising experience because of the steepness coupled with the wet road condition. My front brake is almost worn and relied on the rear brake but was causing ache in my left arm operating the brake continually. I was extremely relieved to make it down safely and just before dark (20.15) and searched for the guest house. I finally found it and showered (for a long time!) I changed clothes and out to the Grieserl after seeing Evelyn for a possible second night here. She offered to dry my clothing and shoes for morning, grateful for her thoughtfulness. I caught up with the diary at the pizza restaurant. I went for the pizza with the most topping at 7.80€ and 2 beers Tiroler Spezial and Tiroler Hefweizen hell, total bill 14.60€. (£10.20). It was now 23.00. Wandered the streets for a short while and then to bed. Trip distance 87.26km, current altitude at Kitzbuhel 717 metres, ride time 7 hours 50 minutes, average speed 11.10kph, (all those hills!), maximum speed 42.50kph, stop watch 6 hours 50 minutes, overall distance total 4683km, navigator 956.42, trip alti 2646 metres, max alti 1656 metres, average climb 8%, maximum climb 28%, total alti 34304 metres, top elev 2762
Ein Kühler trunk macht ale jung!
Saturday 2nd July 2005 Kitzbuhel to Hahnenkamm, return to Kitzbuhel
It was supposed to be a rest day but then Evelyn made sure it wasn’t. She recommended taking a cable-car to the top of the Hahnenkamm. She said this would be good training for me for tomorrow when I cycle the Grossglockner. It was also almost as energetic! I took the cable-car up at 13.00, cost 13.80€ one way with a reduction of 9.66€ showing my international authority card. I was a bit scared for the security of my bike as I was holding on to it dangling over the side of the gondola on the way up, especially over the pylon when the cable-car rumbled across. The bike shuddered each time – I would too if I was hanging on to the outside of a cable-car! I waited up there until the rain went off then followed route eleven past Hahnenkamm Stubl, Bernhard Kapelle and up the hairpins to Pengelstein, lost in the mist that soon covered the area. I got lost up here and went on to Steinbergkogel in error. I returned to Pengelstein for directions – twice- as the path to Pengelsteinsee confused me. I needed to go to the right and this way was very steep. The red indication post was for Aschau. I arrived in Hiesleggulm, a farm. I started for Aschau but this was going up to just north of Hiesleggulm and I’d had enough – wanted to get back down to Kitzbuhel. I turned back and headed for Rettenbach, just to the south of Kirchberg at Skirast, past Schroll, mainly new or renovated chalets. Near here was where the track becomes a road, only narrow but at least surfaced to enable me to go faster and down quicker. I soon emerged on the main road above Kirchberg and took a few photos on the way down. The upper part of the descent from Pengelstein is a bit scary – a 40% descent on the track and had to hold on to the bike and slide down! I returned to Kitzbuhel at 18.00 just in time to shop in the Bella supermarket for chocolate and beer. I met the Norwegian couple in the town who are in the same guest house. They had also been up to the Hahnenkamm today, walking down. Back to Gasthaus Koller. I oiled the bike and wheeled it to the back and started to clean it. Evelyn offered me red wine and laughed that I was cleaning the bike. She said that as the bike looked after me so I must look after her, clean her, oil her and pamper her! I adjusted the brakes and had replaced the brake blocks this morning having bought a couple of pairs from a bike shop in the town. I checked the weather and bought a bratwurst 3€. Now I put the bike to bed and passed my dirt clothes to Evelyn to wash. Later I went out at 20.30 and had a pasta and side salad in the town. I went to Grieserl later for frankfurters and a beer. Back to Gasthaus Koller to prepare what I needed to take tomorrow and leave the bags there. Bed at midnight. Trip distance 38.25km, altitude at Kitzbuhel 705 metres, ride time 3 hours 41 minutes, average speed 10.30kph, max speed 51kph, overall distance total 4721km, trip alti 525 metres, max alti 1870 metres, average climb 6%, max climb 16%, total alti 38054 metres, top elevation 1905.
Sunday 3rd July 2005 Kitzbuhel to Kufstein
08.43train to Zell am See, arriving at 09.29. I cycled along the cycle track to Bruck. I missed out the last section under the roundabout as it was waterlogged after yesterday’s heavy rain. There was at least six inches of muddy water filling the area. From Bruck I took the cycleway on the left as far as Fisch where it ends. I emerged on to the road for the gradual climb starting at Barenwirt then steeper to level off at Ferleiten and the motorist tool booths. There were plenty of other cyclists on this route today. I started off at 10.00 from Bruck and took until 14.00 to reach Fuscherturlhaus on the Grossglockner then a 200 metre drop then climb to the Hochtor at 15.30 then back to Fuscherturlhaus at 17.00 and return to Bruck at 18.00. I caught the 18.30 train back to Kitzbuhel and away from there at 20.15 to Worgl, arriving 20.43 and connected with a train to Kufstein at 21.30. I found a hotel opposite the station and over the Inn river bridge. The bartender must be an innkeeper. I paid 49€ but it was worth it, a good night’s sleep with a very good breakfast in the morning.
Current altitude at Kufstein 498 metres, trip distance 86km, ride time 6 hours 22 minutes, average speed 13.40kph, maximum speed 61kph, overall distance total 4807km, navigator 85.74, trip alti 2104 metres, max alti 2443 metres, average climb 7%, maximum climb 18%, total alti 36409 metres, top elev 2762
Monday 4th July 2005 Kufstein to Rottach-Egern
09.30 to 18.00. Cut short by thunderstorms. A descent of pass 196 Wallbergstraβe (?), Warburg – Seary. It was a pleasant ride out to start with along a cycle path from Kufstein and over the German border following the River Inn northwards on the west side to Kiefersfelden, then a pleasant road, occasionally hilly to Oberaudorf where the climbing begins. The first few kilometres of road are very steep, mainly up all the way. Just past the hairpin and pool at Tulzelwsimmen (?) I took a left then down a bit where the road immediately rises after the bridge over the stream, very steep. Turned right at the top then up again further on. Great views across the valley to the red and white radio mast on Wendelstein. From Grappenbergen, restaurant almost opposite is a mountain road, this leads to the top of the Sudefeld BIG 198, an open hill with a beacon on the top and the top of the chairlift. I took some photos then down to the main road, a long sweep down to Bayrischzell then a level valley road to Aurach where I took a left then climbed to Spitzingsattel BIG 197. There were BEWAC road-works taking place at the top, kerb replacements. I left the bags behind bushes at the 1km marker and continued on a further 2.8km to the summit marker. Steadily up, no hairpins and steep in places. I asked a girl hanging about to take a photo of me with the bike and summit marker plate then went back down the same way. I couldn’t find the bags! They were above the one kilometre marking, I was searching below it. I had left a plastic bottle at the opposite side of the road where they were but it had fallen over into the grass. Must keep using twigs next time. Past the road works and I must have looked disheartening to the cyclists coming up to see me going down laden with bags. Into Schliersee from there and along the lake. I went skiing here in 1976 on my first trip with Oak Hall. I bought some milk and took a left at Hausham. I asked the way in my best German to Gmund. The fellow looked at me mystified. He said –“You kein German!” in neither German nor English. He told me he was Slovakian when I said I was English. He directed me on; soon there was a left turn to Gmund, over a hump and down to the lake. I turned right for Tegernsee and followed the cycleway along the lake to Rottach-Eggern. I had a pasta meal, spaghetti carbonara 4.20€ and plenty of it, then left off the main road and up to the Warburg toll road to the church and restaurant at the top of Wallbergstraβe BIG 196. It took me 1.½ hours to cycle the 7.½ km. I left my bags at the café. I asked for a Radler beer there but they didn’t understand me. I found out from a local that I should have asked for a r-r-r-adler beer. Got to pronounce my rrr’s! When I was up there the sky turned angry and thunder started – rrrr. Very soon it started raining. On the way down later it became very windy but not much rain – yet – but before reaching the foot of the climb the heavens opened! I raced as fast as possible to the tourist information place to get them to find me a room. They booked me in at the Hotel Garni, Villa Svensden at 34€ (£23.80) with breakfast. After a shower I went out for a walk and went for a meal at an Italian restaurant – what a rip off – nouvo cuisine! Very little of it and said so. I was given a ‘free’ pigs trotter in my ¾ an hour wait then when I received my ‘main course’ it was only three pieces of round pasta with miniscule sauce in a very large dish. I was really annoyed! I received a dessert free. I rang Ruth at 22.00 and at 23.00 back to the hotel and bed. Current altitude at Rottach-Egern south end of Tegernsee, Germany 767 metres, Trip distance 88km, ride time 5 hours 54 minutes, average speed 14.80kph, max speed 83.50kph, navigator 173.52, overall distance total 4895km, (now 755 miles), trip alti 1406 metres, max alti 1171 metres, average climb 5%, max climb 17%, top elevation 1905 metres, total alti 39460 metres, 15161 metres climbed this trip so far.
Tuesday 5th July 2005 Rottach-Egern to Berchtesgaden
Breakfast at 08.00 alone in a huge white ornate room. Out from the gasthaus at 09.00 and set off, again in the unceasing rain through Bad Wiessee, Anger and Waakirchen to Bad Tolz at 12.00. I caught the 12.43 train to Munich on the BOB system from Bad Tolz (Bayern Oberalp Bahn). I’d wished I knew that the train also left from Tegernsee as I could have caught a train two hours before. In Munich I was planning to go to Immenstadt to cycle over BIG’s 191, 193 and 194 but weather being bad and also I had an immediate connection for Salzburg ten minutes after arriving in Munich so decided to go for that. The train departed at 14.42. I got off the train at Freilassing and caught an immediate connection to Berchtesgaden arriving at approx 16.00. I went to the tourist information office opposite the railway station. The girls behind the desk were dressed in traditional Bavarian costumes with hair in pigtails, the man across the way in short cropped blond hair manning the desk for Kehlstein, the Eagles Nest Nostalgia tour – scary. I was allocated a room near the railway station, the Hotel Achental for 29€ (better had be after last night, paid 50€ and was supposed to be 34€. That coupled with a Spartan meal for 18€ made it a bum deal last night. I arrived in Berchtesgaden at 16.00 so time to deposit my bags and cycle up to Kehlstein (BIG 200). The way up is extremely steep at 25% in three sections to the par at Eagles Nest. I took photos there, still very wet and raining hard. A bit further along to a parking place and an indication of the track to Kehlstein. It’s a surfaced way but narrow, round the edge of the Klingelkopf to the right and up under the trees in a wide arc and passed through a tunnel to reach Kehlstein after a final hairpin. This is an edge to the Hoher Goll towering above. There wasn’t much I could see today as the weather was so bad. It’s a private way to the top where Eagles Nest is situated below Kehlsteinhaus. I returned back down through Oberau. I didn’t want to go back down the extremely steep road descent to Berchtesgaden. Back at the hotel I was so cold I needed a hot shower. In the town I needed to find a cash machine but couldn’t find one. So I tried to buy a beer with a card – no go. Up to the town, steeply up. I found an ATM there and withdrew 300€ then bought kebab, chips and salad for 8€. It was much more filling and satisfying than the rip off nouve cuisine yesterday that I regretted having to pay 18€ for. Back to the hotel, caught up with the diary and to sleep at 22.30.
Current altitude at Berchtesgaden 544 metres, trip distance 61.5km, ride time 4 hours 12 minutes, average speed 14.60kph, max speed 44.50kph, navigator 23485, overall distance total 4956km, trip alti 841 metres, max alti 1004 metres, average climb 6%, max climb 21%, total alti 37250 metres, top elevation 2762 metres.
Wednesday 6th July 2005 Berchtesgaden to Jenbach
I set off from Berchtesgaden in brilliant sunshine – hurray, first sun all week! It was a little cool but mustn’t grumble! I enjoyed a great breakfast, used my best German, did my best but it was accepted! On to Ramsau. I sent Hans a post card. After Hintersee it was a gradual rise, the road became narrow but a good tarmac surface and slightly up but open to cyclists only. I was in Berchtesgadenland National park. No cars allowed here until the Austrian border. The final few kilometres shared with other cyclists and the way was extremely difficult, most got off and walked – including an all out kitted racing cyclist who didn’t have the gears to take the gradient. At the top of Hirschbichl BIG 199 an Austrian lady offered to take my photo at the border points. There was a restaurant at the top on the Austrian side where cars are allowed. It was extremely steep through the woods. One long steep section then two sets of large slabs over the road to allow a stream to pass over then the very steep long section followed by another a kilometre further. Over the border under a locked bar so traffic couldn’t get through. No passports required at this crossing. On the Austrian side one small hump after the restaurant and an indication of the pass height, this is on the Austrian side not the German but then most of the climbing involved from the west is inside Germany. I took a photo. On the way down I came across a sign that indicated a 30% gradient. This was the steepest section down to a stream then many turns on the way down, one slight up to Weiβbach then 15km on the cycleway – radweg – to Saalfelden. I arrived at 12.30. I didn’t have too long to wait for the train departure at 13.04 to Worgl and an immediate connection from there to Jenbach at 14.30. I bought an ice cream then away from the station at 15.00 and asked at the tourist information office by the stream for accommodation. I was allocated a place for 37€ above the Jenbachhof Hotel and along to the right up the hill. I left the bags there and explained that I wanted to cycle further then at 16.00 set off – along the wrong road – to Achensee. I turned back from Maurach and into Jenbach again then followed the signs for Worgl. I thought the road seemed a long way for Zillertal but eventually found it by a bridge over the Inn River – perhaps he was the innkeeper. I emerged on a new motorway not indicated on my old map and cycled 1.1/2 miles through a tunnel so walked back to the main road along the slipway. Further along I found a roundabout, Strass (stress?) to the right so took it. This turned out to be correct and biked along the road and slightly up for 18 kilometres to Zell am Ziller and on to Ramsau, took a right for Hippach then up the mountain with some confusion of the right way just south of the mountain road. There are many hairpins up, after Zellerbergbaum what I thought was passing dark cloud turned to be light rain then heavy rain. Oh not again! I took shelter at the restaurant at the top of the Zillertaller Hohenstraβe, BIG 616 and given a lift back from people going back from the pub at Zell am Ziller. I missed the last bus at 19.30 and the last train at 17.00. I asked him to take me back to Jenbach but not at taxi price or leave me here! He suggested 10€ when we reached Jenbach at 20.00. I had pasta at the restaurant at Zillertaller Hohenstrasse and another in a pizzeria in Jenbach. With ice cream and a beer this came to 10.50€ so best night yet for accommodation, food with good prices for a cheapskate Englishman. Bed at 00.30 after catching up with the diary.
Current altitude at Jenbach 608 metres, trip distance 110.49km, ride time 5 hours 45 minutes, average speed 13.90kph, max speed 52kph, navigator 80.49, overall distance total 5067km, total alti 1957 metres, max alti 1934km, average climb 6%, max climb 20%, total 39507 metres, top elevation 2762 metres.
Thursday 7th July 2005 Jenbach to Bregenz
My cycle computer was kaput after some damage being towed down in the trailer yesterday. I had an idea later, I stuck the display on to the back of the handlebars with furniture tape that I carried for the airport wrapping, and it worked but couldn’t see the display.
Breakfast around the table was German conversation only but thought I did quite well; perhaps they had a laugh at me afterwards. I left the bike in the garage and walked to the tourist information office. The same girl was there. I told her it was really good accommodation at 20€ for the night, now I wanted to know if there was a bus or cable-car to the Zillertaler Hohenstraβe. I was told there was no public service there so collected the bike and rode down to the bahnhof. I only had approx 15 minutes to wait for a local train to Innsbruck so went for it. The initial intention was to ride the Mutterbergalstraβe but due to the weather conditions that would be rather ambitious. I might get caught out as I did yesterday. I decided at Innsbruck on the next move. I went for the Aarlberg Express that would take me to Bludenz in 1 ¼ hours at 12.30. I took the road from Bludenz up to Douglas Hutte, BIG 603 or Schattenlegand. It was a long road up to begin with, steep but it levels out after 6km then along to Brand. After Brand the road is narrower but a very good surface, steep, over three bridges and many twists in the road. I was cycling in the clouds and could hardly see before me, though the rain had stopped lower down. It was much colder near the top. I saw the post bus going back down that only passed me a few minutes before so that was a good sign I was near the top. The sielbahn to the Douglas Hutte then loomed in the mist and I came to the flags lining the top section. Just past the sielbahn, to the right of it and ahead is the track to Douglas Hutte, another kilometre but rideable. Cars can’t intrude up here as the entrance to the track is blocked by boulders set across the width but no problem for a mere cyclist – or motor cyclist. It’s very steep and had to walk up the path but again I didn’t want a repeat of what happened to me at the Eisenkappelhutte. I couldn’t see anything; the Lunersee could only be made out at the edge of the Douglas Hutte. This was huge and I stayed a while to get warm again and put on extra layers for the descent. I walked back down a short distance over the stony surface then rode with brakes on along the very wet road, steeply down to Brand. From Brand I was out of the cloud and the road down not so steep. I was back down the mountain in Bludenz to the Bahnhof. I was fortunate not having too long to wait. There was a train at 15.42 that would take me to Gotzis at 16.40 for another attempt at the Mulrutti BIG 601. I enjoyed this route the first time I came but hoped for better weather. The pass isn’t as high as the Douglas Hutte but I was enveloped by cloud at the top, 1071 metres. It took me 1.1/2 hours to cycle up there then down at 18.15 and 20 minutes to come back down. The pass is steep up all the way except for a brief respite half way at some houses. Mulrutti direction is straight out from the station, slightly up to the left of it and straight on past the church on the left and up Marktgasse that eventually becomes Mesachsraβe then a short right turn at the end of the houses that marks the beginning of the pass and the first steep ascent through the woods. The road clings to the rock wall with a steep drop to the right for much of the way. It snakes along the side of the mountain. Just after Berghaus is a turning to the right and a few scattered buildings and a final steep rise. A turn to the left then the Mulrutti is reached on a final turn to the left. It’s not possible to take a bike further. There’s a track to the right further up the mountain but too rough for cycling. I had a Radler beer in the jauserstation and bought a post card that could be stamped with the Mulrutti postmark and sent this home to Ruth. I turned the bike around after telling the woman in there the talk of my holiday. It took me only 15 minutes to return back down, a couple of photos taken on the way. It was fortunate that I was able to board a train with only a few minutes wait. At 19.42 I was on my way to Bregenz at 20.30. I followed the hotel directions and found Pension Hotel Sonne, 35€, two star. I had a bath. There was no light in there so had to put a chair against the door for modesty! I went out for a meal nearby at Bistro Duygu and had chips, durum donor, a beer and baklava – a syrup pastry 2+4+3+3 = 12.50€. I had a wander around Bregenz, a very quiet place in the evening. Back to the hotel at 22.45 and to bed. I heard before about the bombing in London on the Tube – 70 dead and over 100 people injured. The current altitude at Bregenz 416 metres, trip distance 51km, ride time 4 hours 20 minutes, average speed 11.70kph, max speed 46kph, navigator 131.53, overall distance total 5088 km, trip alti 1507 metres, max alti 1590 metres, average climb 7%, max climb 16%, total alti 40968 metres, top elevation 1905
Friday 8th July 2005 Bregenz to Feldkirch
Last big onslaught if it worked out. I was planning to take a train to Lindau along Lake Constance then another train to Sonthofen in Germany. The idea was leave the bags at the tourist information office there and cycle the Oberjoch BIG 191 11km, then cycle back into Austria fully laden over the Tiefenberg BIG 194 and back into Austria at Dornbirn then take a train to Feldkirch. The plan worked. After a none descript breakfast in a none descript pension at a rip off price – at least I slept but didn’t get much food for breakfast – I was out along the wet street as there was a lot of rain during the night, on to the bahnhof. I boarded a train at 08.10 and was in Lindau at 08.20 then a connecting train to Sonthofen departing at 08.40, no cost for the bike. This would be my last gasp at the BIG’s this holiday. The weather was dry for once, some blue sky as I sat on the train. I hope it stats dry today. I arrived in Immenstadt at 09.25 and changed for a local train to Obertsdorf leaving at 09.59 and in Sonthofen at 10.08. It was fairly easy going, a very slight uphill on the cycleway to the left of the road to Hindelang and I left my panniers in the tourist information office to the left of the main road just before the climb to the Oberjoch. After leaving the bags the climb to Oberjoch BIG 191 was fairly easy going in middle gear. There are 13 hairpins but the way was never steep. There’s a viewpoint on the left then two more road bends to the top where the road to Reutte and the Austrian border branches off to the right. The true top of the road is 25 metres higher along here, just before the border. From here back to the road crossings, a look at the tourist information point then down slightly to the viewpoint then freewheeled back down the turns to collect my bags. It started to rain a little but I was glad that it wasn’t much and was the only rain all day – so glad after yesterday’s ride up to the Douglas Hutte. It took me 20 minutes to reach Hindelang then half an hour up the pass, 15 minutes to the border and collected my bags at 12.30. I had plenty of time to cycle the next two passes on the road to Dornbirn however I got confused back in Sonthofen as the main road to Obertsdorf is now a motorway. That’s the problem with relying on an old map for directions. I asked the way and was guided past the bahnhof to a roundabout; take a right then a left over the autobahn signposted Sigishofen and Ofterschwang. The directions were good and it was a fairly easy ride up through the woods for about 2 kilometres to Ofterschwang though Sigiswang is about 20 metres higher on this road, Allgӓuer Berghof Spitze BIG 194. I took the usual photos, great views to the south and I thought the final BIG – the Riedberg Pass, BIG 193 would be equally as easy, how wrong I was!. Down through Bolsterlang, a pretty village with decorated pole in the village centre, down steeply to the junction of roads from Fischen to Maiselstein, the ascent would be tougher from this side. Up then through Maiselstein to enter the national park and an extremely tough climb, sometimes so steep that I had to resort to ‘pushbike’. The road seemed to go on forever, no let up. The valley cuttings gave way to a rocky landscape. The top finally reached after an hour’s struggle, this was my last BIG of the holiday, nothing like a good finale, this was tough! It’s equally as tough coming up from Dornbirn, although only from Balderschwang. There is still a steep rise up from Dornbirn to Alberschwende. Up a bit more after Balderschwang then a drop to the border – then up again. A steep road comes in from Sibrasgfall and at first I was hoping it wasn’t the continuation of the road I was on, but then there is a gap to the right. Drop down quite a way to Hittisan, a junction of roads, to the left along to Kleimath after which the road rises steeply in a couple of curves to the junction of the road coming in from Egg. This road is on a ridge higher up and still more up until Vorholz then down to Alberschwende and left here for Dornbirn as the main road continues on for Bregenz. Through wooded countryside then the road drops suddenly from Winsau with a glorious view of Dornbirn and the whole area of the eastern side of Lake Constance from Bregenz along to Gotzis. After Dornbirn gave up on taking a train – I had half an hour to wait so cycled on to Feldkirch at 19.30. Dornbirn is a busy place so kept to the cycleway but there are too many traffic lights along the road – stop, start all the way. I shopped at Aldi Hofen just before closing. I was amused at a member of staff in there rushing me to the kasse as they wanted to close – I was the last customer. In Feldkirch I followed the signs for the hotels. The best one was a three star at 55€ or £38.50, the most expensive on the holiday so far – but wait till tomorrow! Hotel Luing was a good hotel though and it’s right in the centre at one end of Marktgasse, the main street. It’s also right behind the town bandstand and there was an ‘oompah’ band playing each day until Sunday. Later I showered and changed and joined in the fun. It was the Feldkircher Weinfest but I had my own beer from Aldi! One guy later wanted to know where I bought the beer from but didn’t want to tell him I bought it elsewhere but to go with it I did splash out on a St Gallen wurst – excellent, 3€. One drunk was dancing and madly waving his arms, poor fellow, everybody was ignoring him. He fell over a couple of times and was later lying flat out paralytic on the cobbles. I listened to the ‘oompah’ band for a couple of hours, and some of the soloists – especially Ronaldo, quite a character. Went to bed at midnight when the noise stopped outside. Altitude at Feldkirch 469 metres, trip distance 135km, overall distance total 5223km, ride time 7 hours 34 minutes, average speed 17.8kph, max speed 54kph, navigator 266.52, trip alti 1691 metres, max alti 1420 metres, average climb 4%, maximum climb 18%, total altitude 42660 metres, top elevation 2905
Saturday 9th July 2005 Feldkirch to Lucerne
I had a lie in this morning and was scolded at breakfast for coming downstairs so late at 08.15 rather than 07.30 as arranged – but I wasn’t getting a fry-up! It was a good breakfast, no thrills. The bread and coffee were good. I didn’t need to make a doggy bag, had my fill for the day. I cycled out at 09.15 uphill into Liechtenstein, over the border then slightly down just before the border. The customs wanted to stamp my passport. On from there downhill to Schaan and soon into Vaduz where I lingered for a while. I called in at Hotel Engels for the brochure of latest room prices as Ruth might be interested in coming again. There were loads of Japanese tourists in Vaduz – and also probably the same ones again in Maienfeld over the Luzensteig Pass later on. I had coffee in Triesen then down to Balzers and steeply up to Luzensteig Pass. There was a military exercise going on, a demonstration to an Italian audience of a would-be car bomber being man-handled and forcibly removed into an army truck. Down the pass and into Maienfeld, great views looking down over orchards in Heidi country. I took some photos then continued along to Bad Ragaz and boarded a train at 12.35 to Thalwil, changed and transferred on to an immediate change on into Lucerne, arriving at 16.15. Wonderful Swiss rail as connections are always perfect and so sedately as they glide into the platforms. Once there I called in at the tourist information office by the station and got fixed up with a hotel in Meggan at 100 Swiss Francs! I couldn’t sleep on the station, not allowed and I couldn’t sleep outside, it could rain. There was no other accommodation available, the reason being that all hotels were full because of a rowing event on the Rotsee to the north of the city all weekend. I cycled the 5km to Hotel Balm then left my panniers and immediately went out to the lido 2km down the hill and sunbathed until 19.00 and also caught up with the diary writing. Later I had a walk around Lucerne. The sky was getting very overcast then dark with another storm brewing so went back to the hotel. After the rain I went out again around the old town. I found a reasonable priced and good place to eat at a pub on the main road around the back of the main town to the north, away from the centre. I had spaghetti Bolognese, salad, bread and a beer for 19.20SF. More rain on the way back to the hotel but soon went off. To the hotel at 22.00 then half an hour later to bed.
Ride time 5 hours, average speed 14.60kph, max speed 56kph, navigator 73.80, trip alti 605 metres, max alti 719 metres, average climb 3%, max climb 11%, total alti 43265 metres, 74km today, overall distance 5297km, current height at Lucerne 475 metres, top elevation 1905. Total cycled on holiday 1612km or 1006 miles
Sunday 10th July 2005 Lucerne. Basel and home
Morning train to Basel and flight home from Basel to Manchester.