Cyclo reading before setting off on 12/6/02 453.4
11.04 Holmes Chapel Crewe 11.20. Crewe 11.51 Alphaline service Runcorn 12.10 Along to Hale and Speke over the Runcorn Bridge. The going was very windy, blowing from the west. Arrived at the new Liverpool John Lennon Airport at 12.50. Mileage 462.4 – 9 miles from Runcorn to the airport. On checking in the bike I was obliged to sign a limited release paper declaring that it was fragile and inadequately packed – of course it wasn’t packed at all! This was so that I couldn’t claim off Easyjet if the bike was damaged in transit. I wasn’t too happy about this but wanted it to get there with me so I had no choice but to sign. It arrived in Geneva safely. Had Aberdeen Angus burger, chips and salad £4.25, cappuccino and Danish pastry, £1.99 Total £6.24. I took £400 of euros with me that worked out at 595 euros. On that basis 1 euro is £0.60, 15 euros are £10 and 50 euros are £33.00. At 2.30 I was boarding the Easy jet 15.05 flight to Geneva. Plane arrived a little early at 5.45, Swiss time. Flight took 1 hour 40 minutes – beats travelling by train any day. Chatted with a little lad who sat by me. He was English but lived in Geneva and was going back to school tomorrow – speaks English and French. At the carousel it was the easiest bag pick up and reassembling of the bike ever, they arrived very quickly and the bike soon followed. The bike was brought along in a trolley to the top right of the carousel, near to where I parked myself after retrieving the bags. I didn’t turn the handlebars (after all that trouble taking it to Williams bike shop in Crewe!) Pumped up the tyres with the new pump, it worked a treat. No more bending the valve screw as the pump’s got an extension piece on it. Neither did the valves disappear into the wheel rims which as a problem the previous year. I used it as a foot pump and it soon inflated – a good buy! Had to unravel the chain that somehow wound round itself on the aircraft. The pedals screwed on by hand which was good enough as cycling will soon tighten them. I was out of the airport at 6.30 in a warm evening breeze in contrast to the cooler weather back home. Cycled along the main road, mainly downhill almost to the lake then wheeling it across the busy main road to the main station, where I queued up for a ticket for the short trip to Culoz. It cost 7SF for myself and the bike went free on the 19.09 train to Culoz arriving at 20.31, stopping at Bellegarde at 20.04 and Seyssel at 20.20. The final destination of the train was Lyon Perrache at 21.48. Sitting next to two English fellows from Mobberley – probably came on my plane. They were busy talking to a Frenchman who spoke perfect English. They were on their way to Lyon. At Seyssel I saw for the first time what I was letting myself in for tomorrow as the Montagne du Grand Colombier loomed above the track to the west. The iron cross that marks the Col Grand Colombier was clearly visible. Booked in at the Hotel du Commerce Roger Cornu by the station. I prebooked this using the Internet some weeks before. I had a really good meal of steak chips and veg for 9.50 euros £5.70. The total bill for my nights stay and meal was 37.70 euros, £22.60 which I thought was excellent value. A Frenchman at the bar bought me a cognac and asked me where I was planning going. We got the maps out. He said it was impossible for me to cycle the Grand Colombier and Chartreuse de Portes and reach Aix le Bains tomorrow. I aimed to prove him wrong but that night had some funny dreams about being lost in a mist on the Grand Colombier with an unreachable iron cross before me in the distance.. perhaps it was the cognac. I hope tomorrow will be a pleasant day and not like my dream.
Day 2 Thursday 13th June. Seyssel to Albertville.
467 to 569.4, 102 miles 07.00 to 19.30, 12.5 hours, average speed 8.5 mph, maximum speed (down the Grand Colombier) 34 mph
The Grand Colombier was a hard challenge at the beginning of a ride, fortunately the sun was not at it’s strongest until later in the day. I arrived up there at 9.30. Much of the upper and longer stretches are through the woods of Culoz and Angelfort. The view of the Rhone sweeping around Mont du Chat and Lac du Bourget is a sight to behold after tackling the first section of bends before the road swings round in a long straight through the woods, 9 km away from Culoz. I reached the end of the first long stretch and level ground for some way to reach a junction of paths with the road where any elation I had was soon dissipated – I had another 9 km to go to the col !
At the top I walked to the giant iron cross to kick in the head the memory of my dream and also, just past it, I took a look at the ‘table d’orientation’ It was an excellent view fro up here, Brevet International du Grimpeur number 264, number 1 I could easily pick out the rest of my day’s riding, a large ‘V’ shape that hopefully will see me in Chambery later today. It took me 2.½ hours to get up here, ½ an hour at the top and ½ an hour descending steeply through the woods to reach Virieu le Petit. Some very steep sections of 19% and 14% that necessitated pump braking or a neck break. I decided against riding the Col de la Lebe and Col de Ballon and gain time by using the main road as far as Tenay passing through Artemare, Virieu le Grand and la Burbanche. At 12.00 I was in Tenay for the fork back up the mountainside for my next challenge of the day. I had a meal, veal and cabbage and two oranginas, at Ordonnaz 1.30 – 2.00 (7.00 +1.70 +1.70 euros) after a hard slog in the heat of the day, reaching Chartreuse de Portes, or Col de Portes, at 2.30, B.I.G. number 263, number 2, downhill a bit from Ordonnaz through farmland to reach a sign pointing 2 km to the col to the right. Sure enough it wasn’t very far, a little bit of a climb through the woods. It was disappointing that trees cover the col, there’s no view up there. A few hundred yards to the south there’s a table d’orientation in the only clearing. After 5 minutes at the col I continued anti clockwise around the hillside, dropping 400 metres freewheeling through dense woods to emerge very close to the road I came in on but this time I headed south through Benonces, took a photo of the backdrop here, then down to the valley to join the Amberieu – St Genix road at Serrieres. From here, past the ugly nuclear power station that can be seen from the top of the pass. It seemed to smell a bit around here so didn’t stop! I followed the D19 road as far as Glandieu and made the mistake of heading for Belley instead of St Genix for Col d’Epine. This took me out of my way a bit and I was on the wrong road for Mont du Chat. So a roundabout route that added on too many miles via Murset Gelignreux, Peyrieu and Belley. Bought a large carton of orange juice and an international telephone card – 7.50 euros – so I could ring Ruth. Down to Vergnin and Yenne, passing through the Rhone gorges here and into Savoie, leaving the department of Ain. There are a couple of tunnels in the gorge but they’re very short – nothing like the big one that I shouldn’t have taken leading to the lake. It was scary! I found out afterwards that cycles were not allowed through there! There was no side section and traffic was thundering through behind me. Never again will I go through that tunnel. The tunnel to the lake is a bit after Chevelu on a slight climb out from the village. An immediate turn to the right indicates that cyclists should take the route over the Col du Chat, 3.5km. Emerging from the tunnel it was a long downhill to le Bourget du Lac. Before reaching it I took the turning up the mountainside for the very steep D42 road through the woods for the 14km commando course to the col. It was a wonderful view from the top – two hours later, B.I.G. No. 266, number 3.
I was now rapidly loosing time and wanted to reach Chambery as soon as possible to catch a train to Albertville where I planned to stay tonight. Very steeply down along the spine of Mont du Chat to reach Col de la Epine to the west of Chambery. From here as fast as possible into the town, a drink at a bar opposite the station – a beer as I’ve finished my cycling for today! I caught the 20.57 train to Albertville and it was late by ½ an hour, which was fortunate, as I wouldn’t have caught it if it were on time. I arrived at Hotel Million at 21.50. I went out for a meal, have a bath later otherwise all the restaurants will be closed. I was too late for many places were already closing. I ended up in a Chinese restaurant that I definitely don’t recommend – the food was tasteless – beef chop suey and I wish I never bothered. I only got in here because it was open until midnight. Later I relaxed in my room after a long soak in the bath. I transferred what I needed into one bag for my next conquests tomorrow. I was exhausted. The heat of the day seemed to affect me. I had crutch problems with the saddle but at least the new saddle is a big improvement on the last one. I nodded off contented that I proved my French friend in Culoz wrong. Not only did I achieve what he thought was impossible in a day but I also climbed the Mont du Chat. I’m sure he would have bought me another cognac. Bed at midnight
Day 3 Friday 14th June. 570 to 623, 53 miles 08.30 to 18.00, 9.5 hours
Train from Albertville at 07.36 to Aime (pronounced Emma) at 08.25.
It seemed like being another hot day so I needed to get up to la Plagne before the sun becomes a scorcher. It took me about 1 ½ hours to reach the ski resort with a stop at La Roche for water. Saw the bob sleigh route on the way up.
The curvettes on the road up to La Plagne are all named. Number 1 is at the top, number 21 just above Aime:
1. Les Lauses 2. Plante Melat 3. La Mine (1816 metres)
4. Les Boucrets 5. Les Pont d’Arc 6. Plangagnant
7. Les Ouverts la Roche (1533 metres) 8. Les Cesieres
9. Les Charmettes 10. Le Savoui 11. Villard du Haut
12. Villard du Haut Bas (1192 metres) 13. La Bise
14. Le Cretet 15. Plan du Guy 16. Cote Rouge
17. Les Echables (1046 metres) 18. Le Chateau
19. Les Fontanils 20. La Combe 21. La Grangette (867 metres)
from Aime to the highest road point at Aime La Plagne, B.I.G 284, number 4 and the end of the road in front of a hotel complex at 2100 metres then back to Aime the total distance being 28 miles. Views to the south from the top of la Grande Rochette with the ski station at the top. This dominates the resort Further south are the mountains of the Vanoise rising in the distance, Bellecote, La Grande Motte and La Grande Casse.
At Aime I needed a meal later while I waited for the 13.54 train back to Albertville. I had fish in sauce and fried potatoes, coffee and loads of water (8.40 euros)
Back in Albertville and an immediate turn around for a very hot ride gradually up away from Albertville on the Beaufort road as far as Villard sur Doron. There’s a good supermarche at the foot of the Signal de Bisanne, B.I.G. 281, number 5 to stock up for the climb. (3.96 euros) The shop is just past the turn off for the climb, on the main road. It was a very hot ride up through the woods, steep in places, especially about halfway up. Returning to Albertville I enjoyed a long descent all the way back.
That evening I had a meal at the Le Val restaurant opposite of Hotel Million, across the square. The starter was steak and salad pieces followed by a huge piece of steak bein cut avec legume. I needed a litre of water and finished with an ice cream (17.00 euros) Went to sleep very satisfied, very full!
Day 4. Saturday 15th June. 624 to 699, 75 miles 08.00 to 18.00, 10.0 hours
(Paid my dues at Hotel Million – 140 euros for 2 nights and breakfast)
Fast ride to the foot of the Grand Cucheron in 90 minutes, 18 miles. At that point a cyclist from Albertville sidled up and rode with me to 6km short of the col. I learned a lot more French! Tortured by French flies on the way up, I don’t mind eating chips but not French flies. Must smear on that insect deterrent. Met with my French cycling friend from Albertville at the road summit of the Col Grand Cucheron, B.I.G. 278, number 6, and remarked “Non café?” I could have done with one. A long downhill most of the way between Cucheron and Allevard. Allevard itself was worth a stop for an hour but this put me back. At Tencin I took the road across the valley and across the hanging bridge over the Isere to la Terrasse then took the next two hours climbing up to St Bernard for the Col de Coq. The road to the pass begins down the hill a bit from St Pancrasse but first there’s a pleasant ridge ride from St Bernard to St Pancrasse called the Petit la Roche. Stopped along here for a while at a place called St Hilaire. Here there’s a large tourist office and little else – a café at the road junction, another café and Casino store nearby. It seems this place exists for the coach parties coming up from Grenoble. I stopped for a short time to cool down with some ice coke from the shop then moved on to the pass, careered back down the mountainside through three unlit tunnels as I’d run out of time to do the Col de Coq – Col de Portes circuit. Took a photo on the way down of the valley below with Grenoble filling the plain, then a zoom of the valley to compare. Carried on down to join the line of traffic heading into the city at St Imier. I found a hotel at 65 euros, the Hotel Ibis in the centre of the city. I booked in for two nights. After freshening up, went out for a meal; egg mayonnaise starter followed by spaghetti bolognaise then cream caramel downed with a large beer, Le Touquet, 10.40 euros for the meal and 5.00 euros for the two draught beers, pression.
Day 5 Sunday 16th June. 770 to 773.5, 73.5 miles 08.30 to 18.00, 9.5 hours
Grenoble – Uriage – Col Luital – Sechiennes – Bourg d’Oisans – Alpe d’Huez – Vizille – Brie – Grenoble.
73 miles.
Macdonalds for breakfast, next door to Hotel Ibis and cheaper; 2.90 euros for a good fill that kept me going. Man and son cycling from Grenoble to Chamrousse. I joined them as far as Col Luital, B.I.G. 289, number 7. His son is 21 and a slow plodder but he’ll make it, said his dad. We had to keep waiting for him. We parted company at the junction of the Chamrousse and Col Luital roads, I careered down the pass to the road for Bourg d’Oisans arriving in Sechiennes at 12.00, they continued on to complete a circuit back down to Grenoble. It took me two hours to reach Bourg from here as the road is gradually up all the way. It’s not really noticeable until cycling back the other way to discover just how far down it is. Attempted the Alpe d’Huez and got so far up but not only was time against me as the heat had slowed me down too much but also it was pointless as I can’t collect my climbing certificate from the tourist office at the top as it would be closed today – it’s Sunday. I really should have thought about that in my armchair planning. There was also another reason; I wanted to spend some time at the chateau in Vizille before it closed. I had a meal in Bourg, local sausage and chips. I looked for Ruth’s Alp magnet souvineer that she asked me to buy but to no avail. Took photos of Alp d’Huez and a zoom comparism then headed back to Sechiennes, stopping in the village to fill up at the water fountain. From there on to Vizille, arriving at 17.00. The chateau grounds are a wonderful place in the bright sun. I stayed for an hour or more, dozing on the grass by the lake and enjoying the sun. From here it was over the hill (and so am I) to Brie on the direct road back to Grenoble. For tea tonight I didn’t buy from a restaurant tonight. I had accumulated so much food in my bags that it was better to eat it rather than weigh myself down too much tomorrow when I climb over the Vercours. Later I had a walk along the town streets to the Isere bridges, scenic, reminiscent of Venice.
Day 6 Monday 17th June. 774 to 836, 52 miles 08.00 to 18.00, 10 hours
Grenoble – Vassieux en Vercours
Paid my dues at Hotel Ibis, 131.20 euros for two nights. Started off at 08.00, fully packed the night before. I didn’t take too long after yesterday’s fiasco in getting out of the city. I carefully took note of the city map details and found my way out to Sassenage. From there at 09.00 I started of on the steep uphill away from the valleys of the Isere and Drac, heading for Villard de Lans. This took me until 11.30. There was nothing much to see at Engins but then I missed out the village as it would have meant a sharp uphill and in the opposite direction and I wanted to press on without making a unnecessary diversion. From here it was a gentler gradient on the plateau to Lans en Vercours, finishing with a slight climb into the village. It was so hot I stopped for a chocolate ice cream and an ice coke (3.80 euros) at a crazy golf site served by a man mowing the grass that looked a bit like Norman Wisdom – but definitely French. From there along to Villard de Lans peculiar road system. About ½ a mile down the road from the village the Gorge de Bourne begins. Nothing more than a gap between the rocks to begin with but as the road drops down the rocks become cliffs and the wonder of the gorge begins. Deeper still and the road is only a narrow passageway clinging to the rock face. Between les Jarrairs and Caranche the gorge is magnificent, deep cliffs, hair raising roads if you’re in a car and going to fast. The traffic was crawling through here but not too much of it because of road works going on in several places. I was glad to be biking it, at least I could stop to look and that’s impossible in a car. The road hangs to the cliff and snakes round the gorge with only a low stone wall on the right to stop a fall a few hundred feet. The road is a bit uneven so if coming this way care should be taken descending. Great views all the way down. Five kilometres before Caranche the road opens out again but the gorge is still there below. I met many cyclists going up, the opposite direction. The descent continues all the way to Pont en Royans, but more pastoral here, the high tops of the Vercours all around. Pont en Royans is a very picturesque place, took many photos. Resembles a Cinque Terre town with the long slender houses built over the river, tumbling down to the river.
Slight up here to St Laurant along a tree-lined road with the mountains on the left but flat for miles to the right. At this point I was on the edge of the mountains as the Rhone valley is not too far away. At this point it’s easy to see why the Vercors is one huge bowl, the mountains form the rim with the Vercors contained inside. I was outside that and headed for the Col de la Machine to enter in again. The mountains are shaped with gentler inner slopes and what seems an impenetrable wall on the outside. In the war it was an effective resistance area held by the Marquis until 14th July 1944 when Germans flew in on four seater gliders to take the area at Vassieux. Seventy-three people were murdered in the area that day. The frame of one of the gliders is in the churchyard at Vassieux.
Vassieux en Vercors, village martyr compagnon de la liberation cors de la attaque generale du Vercors le 21 Juillet 1944 les troupe Allemandes, arrives ici par planeurs, ont totalement detruit le village, massacre 73 de ses habitants et tue 101 Maquisards au cours des combats pour la liberte passant, souvieut toi –
Sandwich and coke – caffine ideal for energy – from a grocers in Pont du Royans then slightly up to St Laurant. There is a new road here for lorries (the D2) to avoid the Gorges Laval so I took it, as the road seemed quiet – but I later found out why it was called Col de la Machine. Some lorries thundered past that I met up with again near the top of the pass. Workman slaving away in the heat were moving rocks and stones from the side of the road and filling the dumper trucks with the heavy equipment. The D2 follows the Gorges Laval but above it and to the east. The 25 miles to Col Tourniel, B.I.G. 297, number 8 and return to this point was easier when Col de la Machine was conquered – the only obstacle being Col de la Bataille.
The new road D2 reaches Col de la Machine at the top there is no view but a clamber up the bank by the side of the road before the descent to the road junction and Col de la Machine proper gives a clearing where there’s a view across to the west and the plain with St Jean down below. Down to the junction with the road coming up Combe Laval from St Jean – perhaps it would have been more interesting to see Combe Laval though – there’s always another year. From here down to Lente, a very wide road for parking as there’s gites along here. From Lente it’s a gentle climb up through the woods to Col de la Chau then down to Vassieux en Vercors where I stayed overnight, a peaceful place now but the scene of great tragedy toward the end of the Second World War.
An alternative possibility was to take the train from Grenoble and see more of Provence but gave the idea a miss. I put the times here for possible future use:
Grenoble – Valence 08.12 Gap 10.09 Clelles 11.10
Day 7 Tuesday 18th June. 837 to 911, 74 miles 08.30 to 19.30, 10.5 hours
Vassieux en Vercors to Corps (north of Gap)
Auberge du Tetras Lyre, Vassieux was 70.60 euros which included my evening meal last night for 21.70 euros.
Just a coffee to start the day after that huge meal last night but an even greater meal was in store tonight. I’d get fat in France if it wasn’t for this heat that was making me sweat so much I must be shedding weight during the daytime to make space for gourmet meals in the evening – the French live for food I have heard it said and from my experience it’s certainly true. This morning it was a very pleasant easy gradient up to the Col de St Alexis. Any steep parts were in the tree shade. From there it was a very gradual up, almost level for a good part of the way, to Col de Rousset, B.I.G. 298, number 9. Tried to find a way over the tunnel but there’s no road or track over the top. The only way is through the short tunnel. It was very quite up here at 9.30. The only other road user was a cyclist that had come up from la Chapelle en Vercours. We took in the view from the south part of the tunnel. He pointed out the places of interest. It really is a pretty fantastic view from up here looking down on the white twisting road as it snakes down to Die (pronounced dee). Snakes is the operative word because in this heat there’s plenty of them slithering by the side of the road enjoying the sun – but they’re not car conscious as can be seen by the many scaly skins at the roadside. It’s an impressive descent along the many hairpins of the Rers de Chironne, 15km was behind me in no time at all even though I stopped a few times to take photos. I arrived in Die soon enough and stocked up at a supermarche and had a pizza and coffee, 5.00 euros, to keep me going for a while longer. In the belting hot sunshine this really is a sleepy town. People were lolling about in quite corners out of the sun. All that was missing were the sombreros. From Die I struck south following the railway along a very quite main road as far as Pont de Quart where I took the road for Chatillon en Diois and my next self-inflicted torture called Col de Menee. It was an easy first few miles to Chatillon then slightly steeper to Menee village where the pass begins in earnest. Filled up my water bottles in the village and stopped for an hour at les Nonieres with heat exhaustion. The sun was so hot that I was very light-headed and needed some shade at the restaurant there. Had a coke and an ice cream sorbet that helped eventually. A waitress asked me if I was feeling unwell and directed me to a sun bed in the shade. After freshening up and a lie down in the shade for an hour I was fit enough to continue. I wondered if the road further along negotiated the rocky plateau to the left and forward a bit along the road. It didn’t but the road does traverse the lower slopes of this mountain, the Rancou, before turning steeply east through the woods eventually to reach the Col de Menee, B.I.G. 299, number 10 col topped by another tunnel. Since my stop lower down I was fit again, no further problems but I was discovering that it was much harder to cycle in this sort of heat. The temperature was a constant 35 degrees centigrade for the whole tour, not just today. I enjoyed the climb up here. Comparing with the descent down to Clelles this was the best route for the ascent of Col de Menee as the way up from Clelles is mainly wooded, especially nearer the top so views are limited. Took the essential pictures at the top then down the narrow road, densely enclosed by trees as far as Col du Prayet where the scenery opened out. The view of the table mountain, Tete Chevaliere was a sight to see as the road skirts to the east of it then eventually past it. Col du Prayet, although marked as a col on the Michelin map was just part of the total descent from Col de Menee. Across the main Grenoble / Gap road to reach Clelles la Gare, toying with the idea of taking the train to Gap but there were none for a couple of hours. The decision was made for me so I continued on to Mens on a long sweep downhill for the first 8 kilometres then a slight up for the last 5 km into Mens. Stocked up again here from a small supermarche, coke, bananas and chocolate then took the road up to Col St Sebastien. From Mens it’s a straight road with good views to the south. The last kilometre is steeper but the top can be seen in the woods up there. Not so high this one, a bit rural, the col marker is next to a wooden bus stop. Down from here past poppy fields and views south to l’Obiou mountain and Col du Noyer further on. Following the Drac upstream to the sleepy village of Cordeac, filled my water bottles from a gushing ‘eau potable’ tap, along the field valley, steeply down and up through woods over a stream that flows into the Drac then left at pastoral les Moras descending into woods again and to the reservoir at Barrage du Sautet. Rode over the huge single span bridge overlooking the barrage. There’s a board nearby that explains in French, English and German how the barrage was constructed in the 1970’s. I was getting a bit tired now and started to search for somewhere to stay. The road goes steeply up, a few twists away from the reservoir and eventually emerging on the Gap / Grenoble road, the Route Napoleon and into Corps. I searched for a hotel and soon came across the Hotel de la Poste to right of the road in the village, heading south. The room was like an apartment and the meal –gastronomical! The starter, prawns and small lobster as well as other delicacies, was a mistake so I had two and this filled me up before the equally enormous steak main course arrived. I was so full! Caught up with the diary, read a bit and sleep at 11.00 after ringing Ruth from a call box just outside the hotel.
Day 8 Wednesday 19th June. Corps to Moustairs St Maria
912 to 973.7, 61 miles 08.00 to 17.00, 9 hours
Hotel bill at Hotel de la Poste was 72.22 euros, which included a gastronomical meal last night for 33.30 euros. Left Corps at 08.00 and I really didn’t need breakfast. Those prawns and lobsters were still swimming around inside me; I could still taste the steak and all those other delights. A drop down from Corps to the eastern end of the reservoir but then gradually up to Chauffayer with a steep section before it to climb away from the valley of the Drac. Just south of the wide road village is the turning for Col du Noyer, 12 kilometres along from this point into those towering white cliffs. I could imagine the heat torment today attempting to cycle the barren road in the reflection of those rocks. The road could be seen quite clearly negotiating the clefts and hanging on to find a point to reach further up into those barren pinnacles. This was well and truly the Southern Alps that becomes a contrast from the greener northern French Alpes at a line drawn from the cols of Rousset to Izoard. I contented myself in climbing the less strenuous Col Bayard above Gap but even this had it’s steep parts, especially between Brutinel and Laye where I stopped for a while at a small roadside Maquis resistance monument to drink and rest for 10 minutes after a hot climb. From here it was an easy gradual ascent to Col Bayard with it’s golf course to the left of the road To the right of the road, a short way down at les Bassets there is a table d’orientation facing south for the wide view overlooking Gap way down in the valley. It was far easier the way I went up Col Bayard. Going south it was a long freewheel down curvettes with a stop at a campsite to freshen up then arriving in Gap at 11.00. I was hoping to catch a train from here and soon found la gare as I was freewheeling down into the town. I was disappointed to find that the next train from Gap SNCF wasn’t until 13.54 for the departure to Manosque, planned to arrive at 15.34. I went into the town, bought a pummet of strawberries and a beer and sat at the fountain in the market place and ate out of my bag as well as the fruit and beer. Had a look around the town, many shops open even though it was at siesta time then went back to la Gare and caught the train. I later found out that the train had broken down when it reached Veynes. I got chatting to a French girl who was admiring my bike and she insisted on sitting with me on the bus to Manosque practice her English. She had lived in England, had been married for a while to an Englishman and lived in Chiswick. I resisted the temptation of asking when she returned did she flyover? The bus arrived in Manosque at 17.00, 1 ½ hours later than I planned. Said au reviour to Yvette and had a quick look around the walled town before striking off east down to the Durance, first over the canal then the river and to discover this was where the bus came in off the Autoroute an hour before. There is a suspension bridge called Ponte du Manosque over the Durance. I was now entering the Parc Naturel Regional du Verdon and heading for the Grand Canyon for tomorrow’s ride. The road to Valensole is through open country with a definite Mediteranean look about it, bushland and olive trees. Later in the year the fields here will be full of purple lavender. It was an easy 15 kilometres, slightly up all the way. Valensole is another sleepy little village. On the way out the road does a double back on the incline on the Riez road and the village can be seen down below. Through the woods from here to Riez, mainly up but never steep. From Pontrac the white houses of Riez can be seen on the hillside either side of the valley. A pleasant ride through the woods to reach Riez in the evening light. Riez is a small town with a light stone gateway and covered watering place in the small square, further along the road is another stone gateway. I filled up my bottles for the last time today for the last stage to Moustairs-Ste-Maria.
From Riez a little confusion on the way out of the village. The road to Moustairs is immediately left after the second town gate though the signpost isn’t clear.
A kilometre further is the ornate roofs and pinnacles of Chateau de Campagne on the right. Past rural Roumoules village, which is slightly uphill to the right, then along open country with no hint of the height I’d reached from Manosque because suddenly there’s a long sweep downhill in a series of bends with a great view of Moustairs on the hill opposite. From here the cleft in the rock that contains the falls coming down the narrow valley and the church halfway up can be clearly seen. I made my way up that last kilometre to the village, approaching it from the left then onto the gentle slope into the small town. It’s the biggest place on the route from Manosque and it’s setting below the cliffs is stunning, especially in the evening light on my approach. I tried the hotel by the ponte over the falls but it was ‘complet’ tried another across the road, overlooking the valley. The door was open but the place was deserted, made worse by the door closing on me – but I prised it open. Visions of spending a night in a dark corridor with my unlocked bike and all my belongings resting on the wall outside. Tried another one further along – also ‘complet’ I couldn’t see any other hotels but finally found one on a back street behind the town hall. Hotel le Baldaquin that set me back 64.50 euros for the room only. It was looked after by a heavy smoking small comical chap who was definitely only interested in getting my money. The owner of the hotel certainly had an eye for business, he didn’t speak a word of English but made me understand he wanted his payment tonight but I was badgered for it in a very nice way. He was pleasant enough but I could tell that hotel was run by him as the room as well as the hotel entrance was very Spartan but there was nowhere else to stay and it would be cold on the exposed cliff tonight.. I was so glad I slept well! My speedo reading was 973.7, and 23.7 miles from Manosque, Total today 51 miles – rest day. Evening meal at Le Jadis pizzeria on the back street by the hotel cost me 15.40 euros for pizza and two Pelforth beers.
Total so far – 939.3 less 453.4 = 485.9 miles
Day 9 Thursday 20th June. 974 to 1045, 71 miles 09.30 to 17.45, 8.25 hours
Moustairs St Maria, south edge of the Verdon Gorge to Grasse
The hotelier was nowhere to be seen and I wanted to hit the road as soon as possible before the heat gets up. He sauntered along the road eventually, carrying French sticks under his arm. I hadn’t paid for breakfast as I planned to get something from a café along the road. He offered me coffee before I went, and I was very eager to leave to climb up above the gorge. I stopped off in the village to buy a guide book on the Gorges du Verdon and a coffee and two chocolate pains before gliding down out of the village to Chapelle St Pierre where the road splits for the northern circuit for the gorge or the road straight on signposted Aups, but I wasn’t going that far. I followed the road down to Pont du Galetas on Lac de St Croix, which is the border between departments Var and Alpes Maritimes. Down a bit further past the bridge then up quite sharply to reach the D19 ‘Corniche Sublime’ road that meanders up through the dry bush land eventually to Augines then Col d’Illoire and Cirque de Vaumale. Augines was my first stop. Under the shade of an olive tree I ate – or rather sucked - a slimy Cadbury’s chocolate bar that I had to carefully segregate from the silver foil that was now mixed in with it. Bad mistake bringing chocolate from home into this heat. It was the nearest I could get to hot chocolate. This was a pretty village. In this heat it resembled anything inland on Corfu or Rhodes. The road does a few twists passing through the village and the quaint houses. The gift shop on the top bend was worth a look at. There’s also a good view down from this point and also public toilets. From here, past the ornate ironwork in the middle of the road bedecked with flowers and the village name also in metal. From here up through woods now which was welcome in the heat. There was a break further up at Col d’Illoire, the col name marked on the low wall over which is a fantastic view of the Verdon, bright blue and meandering a long way below. Back into the woods, plenty more twists and turns for another ½ hour before reaching the cliff side high up where the road could be seen negotiating the cliff face for about another ½ a mile but only a slight climb now to a bend I could see in front that marked the top of the Cirque de Vaumale, B.I.G. 322, number 11. It was just a rise up and down at this point, no steep summit. The top was marked on the wall with a small brown plate indicating that this was the source of the Vaumale. Great views from up here where I lingered for some time with plenty of other cyclists. A long sweep downhill from the point following the Verdon Gorge to a lower point through the trees but the view was equally as good at Etroit des Cavaliers and at the Tunnels du Fayet. Just before reaching the first of the two short tunnels there’s a really good view straight down into the gorge. The second tunnel is only separated from the first by a small gap but this is the point where the best view of the river, way down below, can be seen. Another sweep down and I soon reached the huge one arch span over the Artuby tributary of the Verdon called Pont de l’Artuby. I bought a coffee and an ice cream here but was refused when I asked the fellow serving to fill my water bottles. ‘Non potable’ he said but he had just sold me a cup of coffee made with it.. A short climb up from here to reach the last landmark on the south road along the Gorges du Verdon, that is the Balcons de la Mescla where there really is some man made balconies among the rocks overlooking the river, which is still a long way down. On the other side is a restaurant and gift shop. I had a quick look round and came out with a small bottle of Provencal Pastis. The ride up from here to Comps sur Artuby was less interesting than the gorge but it is pleasant open country, up as far as la Cournuelle then down through the bois to Comps. This is a small white stone village with a covered watering point in the centre and the usual bars but precious little else but even so, a restful place where I spent 10 minutes before careering downhill, past a rare sight – a couple on fully laden bikes, front and rear panniers. They must have been hot in this climate. A cheery hello and I sped down a few kilometres before a gradual climb up again to la Bastide then to the watering hole with some French cyclists just below Col de Clavel. Nothing difficult here, it’s only 2 kilometres to the col marker. From here into department Alpes Maritimes for the last time, never to exit until I flew out of Nice in a few days time. Down to the main road from Digne to Grasse rejoining Route Napoleon that I left below Grenoble. A steady climb up on a not so busy main road heading for Col de Valferriere, B.I.G. 323, number 12 with a short stop along the way at Seranon for a coke and a look at the gift stalls. An easy climb to the col then a very enjoyable long sweep down through Escragnolles, showing off to a coach party looking over the valley as they followed my descent to the foot of the Pas de la Faye. It was a wonderful descent followed by an easy ascent of the pass through the woods to emerge at the col and my first sight of the sea at Cannes. It was a long descent down to St Vallier de Thiey past the D5 for Col du Ferrier where I would be going tomorrow. Over the hump of Col du Pilon overshadowed by Montagne Doublier and past Rue de la Genet which is the only road to Montagne Doublier, B.I.G. 324, number 13 by the side of Maison d’Arret – the house of arrest – a large prison. Up here through more woods which helped a lot, to arrive at the mast on top of the mountain at 1245 metres with a fantastic view down to the coast and where the road ended abruptly. Back down and along the twisting upper town roads to arrive in Grasse. I found tonights hotel, an ideal place to stay just above Grasse old town, Hotel Ste Theresa on avenue Baudoin which cost 30.90 euros with breakfast, much better than last night’s robbery! That evening I enjoyed a meal around the table with two American ladies who believed I was French as I did my best to order my food and wine without using English. Thy were tripping round looking for perfume in Grasse and scouring the countryside looking for lavender fields – but it’s too soon in the year for that unless the heat develops the growth quicker. Later I wandered down to the town and was still hungry so had a pizza and wine in the old town square, people watching and enjoying the antics of the locals. Returned and to bed, soundly asleep at 11.00.
Day 10 Friday 21st June. Grasse to Lantosque. 1045 to 1122, 77 miles 08.30 to 20.00, 11.5 hours
Grasse to Lantosque. Hotel cost 88.50 euros, which included evening meal for 19.00 euros and breakfast for 7.00 euros After a very good breakfast I set off up the dangerous route up and out of the town. It was narrow, very steep and on a blind bend with no footpath. Followed the N85 road, Route Napoleon back up to St Vallier de Thiey then headed north and up gradually to reach Col du Ferrier. The road does two long sweeps to negotiate the white rocky landscape. The second half of the climb is steeper and the road summit is reached suddenly round a final bend. Bushes and scrubland mark the summit. A few people were parked in the bushes, picnicking. From here downhill and into a wooded valley with signposts for Canuax where I thought I might be able to buy a cold drink. Except for a few farm buildings there was no sign of life so continued up the next pass, the Col de la Sine and resorted to food from my panniers. The Cadburys chocolate was very sticky. On opening the wrapper the consistency was like eating very sweet yoghurt. Over the col and a long sweep down to Pont du Loup and an immediate switchback, steeply up past plenty of nice houses but no shops or bars to reach the unnamed 1400 metre height where I had a sort break before descending to the crossroads to the east of Thorenc and below the Col de Bleine. The ascent of the col from the south is through woods so I was protected from the sun for the ½ hour climb to the ridge. Thorenc village nestles in the woods down below. There’s no bar or restaurant at the top of the pine / spruce covered col so after a short stop I spun off down the other side of the mountain, completely covered by the trees, to reach the Gironde valley. From here, right, then left then right fork for any easy climb to Col de Pinpenier from where the way was gradually down along the mountainside terrace, through le Mas village, again nowhere to eat. The road continues down to reach the beautiful gorge called Clue d’Aiglun, approached through a couple of tunnels to reach the Clue itself then steeply up through another couple of tunnels to reach the Aiglun village. From here, after filling the water bottles and noticing the first bar since St Vallier (gave it a miss – wanted to plod on) it was down again past sigale perched high on the mountainside to the north. I was hoping that this road didn’t climb up to that point. This was truly Mediterranean climate and I was too hot to be bothered struggling up there! Fortunately the road carried on at the same level. When I joined another road, the D221 coming down from Puget-Theniers it was obvious that a left turn here went to Sigale. I careered down to Roquesteron where I stopped for a meal before tackling Mont Vial to the north. I asked for the plate du jour and was given grilled rabbit, chips and veg. I had this and two oringinas and was back to pedalling furiously. The road was gradually up to Clue de la Peguerie then through Pierrefeu where local jokers had altered the village nameplates to read Piereeeeu. A turn off to the right at Vescous, a bridge over the main road then gradually up on a very pleasant wooded lane following a stream up the mountainside with the view of Mont Vial high above before it disappeared behind the rocky walls of the climb. It was a long haul up here that took me ages, well into the evening, but it was cooler now. It took me about three hours to reach the TV mast perched on the rocky shelf of Mont Vial. I had a stop at Toudon (9km) with Mont Vial, B.I.G. 326, number 14 in sight along the ridge; I stopped for an ice-cold coke from a shop then up to the road junction for the very steep 5-mile climb up to the summit. It was getting late but there was no turning back at this point! On reaching the top I could see across to Madone d’Utelle across the Gorges de la Mescla, which is visible below as the mountainside to the gorge is very steep. The Tinee winds its way through the white cliffs of the gorge and is a fantastic sight from this height. I stayed a while then made my way down via Revest – les – Roches slight rise up to Collet des Sausses, then speedily down again to the very picturesque village of Gilette with a last view of Mont Vial silhouetted behind the cluster of houses above the valley here. Steeply down from this point to Pont Charles Albert on the very busy road down to Nice. I didn’t want to go there just yet so I struck north for 7km to le Plan de Var and the girder bridge over the Var River where the Vesubie joins. My plan was to stay the night at St Jean de la Riviere for the climb up to the Madone d’Utelle in the morning. I was surprised to find there was nowhere to stay in the village. On my last visit I thought it looked the ideal place but there’s not even a bar there. From there I went up the valley a bit further and stayed at the hotel on the Vesubie at le Suquet just below Lantosque. The hotel cost 54 euros, 7.00 euros for breakfast and 27.50 euros for evening meal outside the hotel in front of the river in the setting sun. It was perfect peaceful evening repas to a very tiring but biggest col bashing day of the tour – I passed over eight cols today.
Day 11 Lantosque to Nice 66 miles
I had planned to go up the Madone d’Utelle then strike north for the Col de Turini and continue to l’Authion, later down to Sospel for a loop up Col de Brouis to Col de Tende then catch a train from Breil sur Roya to Nice – but the weather was so hot it was unbearable. I was out early enough to climb the Madone d’Utelle before the heat of the midday sun but when I returned for my bags at the hotel I realised just how difficult it would be to tackle the Turini, having been up there two years ago. I could imagine it would live up to its other name – tyranny. No way could I climb it at 35 degrees centigrade with full panniers.
However – the Madone was about to receive its next English cyclist. I counted the major bends and hairpins on the way down, there’s 24 from St Jean Riviere to Utelle then a further 16 bends from Utelle to the summit of Madone d’Utelle, B.I.G. 327, number 15. The series of bends on the lower section soon bring you up to a level where the bridge can be seen over the Vesubie at St Jean le Riviere, way down in the valley. The climb continues relentlessly up to Utelle with great views back down the valley and across to the Cima de Rocca Seira mountainside. The road has a few potholes and loose stone but generally the surface is good. Utelle village is clustered around its churchyards and tiny squares; one near the gateway through the town wall has a water fountain. I didn’t stop on the way up but had a look round here later. Trees, well wooded especially after the turn off for la Tour, shade the upper part of Madone. The road to the top is better surfaced and the gradient not as steep as lower down – but the insects at the top… probably due to the horse muck on the road. At the top a very friendly welcome from insects and the man in the little chapel who was looking after the church shop. He told me that Lance Armstrong had cycled up there recently from his home in Monaco. The view opened out to the west just below the top. I could see yesterday’s climb, Mont Vial across the Mescla Gorge. Unlike yesterday it’s not possible to make out the gorge below but the sight of Mont Vial so close gives an impression of two giant sentinels guarding the Alps from the sea. These are the first two major mountains north of Nice. It took me 2 ½ hours to get up there and ½ an hour to return to le Suquet.
The weather was too hot to continue to Turini, so I turned back for Nice along the main road. This was a bit frightening as the traffic was roaring past. Which one would catch my pannier and send me flying? I wanted to get off this road at the nearest opportunity. That came at la Manda where I crossed the Var for the much quieter road on the west side of the Var via St Laurent, then over the bridge and past the airport. I searched for a hotel and found a decent one just off the Esplanade des Anglais called Hotel Magnan, at 53.92 euros, room only. The remainder of the afternoon I spent sunbathing and souvineer hunting around the old town.
Day 12 Sunday 23rd June. Nice - home. 1190 to 1202, 12 miles around Nice
Today I spent the whole day in Nice, sunbathing! I took the bike along but locked it up at various places along the Esplanade des Anglais as I sampled the beach between the port and the western end of the beach not far from the airport. Had full English breakfast in a very nice café next to MacDonald’s on the front. It was only 8.00am and I had a full day to swim, sunbathe and shop around for some presents for Ruth, Mark and Lindsay and some souvineers to take home. The old town part of Nice was well worth a visit and I enjoyed moseying around here but I was probably a bit of a nuisance around those narrow passageways with the bike – I wasn’t riding it, though! Later I made my inevitable last journey to Nice Airport and booked the bike in as well As the two panniers, safely protected with octopus straps around them. I bought some duty free, Martin cognac 38.00, Amaretto 23.40, Ricard, 2 litres 32.80, Cointreau 24.00 – total 118.20 euros. I arrived back in Liverpool at the scheduled time with only one breakage. The baggage handlers at Nice or Liverpool had snapped one of the supports of my pannier carrier clean in two near the wheel. This made it difficult to load the bike with the extra weight of the duty free but I only had to make it to Hunts Cross station. From there I caught a train into Liverpool Central and wheeled it across to Lime Street. I must have looked a strange sight in the centre of Liverpool in full cycle garb pushing a fully laden bike – they don’t get too many tourists around here like that! I caught the Virgin train back to Crewe then the local train home. This time I met with no accidents on my return journey for a change, except for a damaged pannier carrier. (Last year I got locked in a train toilet when the handle came off on the inside – almost overshot Crewe and the bike was in the main carriage – a great present for the cleaners! The previous year my chain snapped near Northwich and I had to call Ruth out to collect me at 2.00am. The year before that I got hit by a car, which sent me and my back flying on a busy main road in Milan, just before Linate airport. That resulted in a deep wrist gash.
This year – a perfect ending to a perfect trip and I’m off to work tomorrow – oh what joy, I can’t wait! I hope I sleep through most of it!
Miles in total 1201 less 453 (start mileage) = 748 miles