Tuesday 17th June 2003 Holmes Chapel to Chambery
2452 to 2496, 44 miles From Aix le Bains 20.30, Chambery 00.30
I bagged the bike in a Swiss Rail plastic cover and put cling film around the chain, tied the turned handlebars to the top bar and tied the plastic cover on around the bottom bracket, putting the chain on the largest rear sprocket so that the gear arm wouldn’t protrude and also put the chain on the inner chain ring. After checking in two pannier bags strapped with lockable suitcase straps and the bike passed through the check out at the oversize equipment check in I passed through customs. The Easyjet flight to Geneva was due to leave at 12.00 but it was about 13.15 when it finally got airborne due to delays with its in bound flight from Barcelona. Consequently it was late arriving in Geneva so I couldn’t make the 16.05 train from Geneva Airport station to Geneva and on to Culoz arriving at 17.12 for the 17.31 to Aix le Bains for 17.49. Instead I had to fall back on a train from the airport at 16.39 into Geneva then from Geneva Eaux Vives at 17.20 and change at La Roche sur Furon at 17.55 for the 18.17 to Aix le Bains arriving at 19.51. Although the Geneva station was in the city it was a French station but there were no passport formalities even though there was a customs desk there – now unused. I queued up to buy a ticket but the train was just coming in so boarded it and bought a ticket at La Roche later. There was along wait at Annemasse on the first train but it still connected with the train to Aix. An English couple at La Roche station didn’t understand the announcement but it was nothing much, only to say that the train to Aix would be 10 minutes late. Arriving in Aix 2 hours later than planned didn’t leave me a lot of daylight time left to cycle around the south part of Lac de Bourget on the cycleway and attempt the slope of the Mont du Chat (Mount of the Cat) from Bourget du Lac. At 20.50 I started off on the climb up Mont du Chat and reached the top at 22.30. It was dark by then. This was a good warm up for the climbs to look forward to through the next 12 days and I really enjoyed the challenge of this one, made easier now that the sun was not as strong. It was light for most of the way to the top but it became dark 2km from the pass.
I found out on the later stages up this very steep pass that if I counted 550 pedal revolutions from a kilometre marker I would then be at the next one! The novelty ended after about 3 km because I was so intent on counting that I wasn’t looking at the scenery! There is a resemblance to the Grand Colombier north of Culoz, which was my first climb on my French tour last year. It’s well wooded but there are plenty of places, especially at the virages, where the scenery opens out. The last few kilometres I could risk taking my shirt off as the sun had gone down. Even though I was cycling in the dark for the last two kilometres I was warm with climbing but when I reached the top and stopped I suddenly felt the cool air so put on my top with cycle helmet. For the last 200 yards or so I had the bright light of the TV mast directly in front, the red and white mast was lit up by the bright red lights. I nearly jumped out of my skin when a large dog brushed against me in the dark. I couldn’t see it until I looked for it, as it was pitch black up here – and so was the dog!. Just then a motorist stopped at the top, only the third car I had seen on the way up. I asked him the best way to go to Chambery from here. He advised against going down from the col via Col de l’Epine as it was quite a lot further that way and would be safer in the dark along the cycleway from le Bourget du Lac to the town. It was good advice anyway because on the way down the pass I could hardly see the way forward when in the trees and had to pick my way down by getting off the bike a few times. I came back down the same way and later took the cycle track on to Chambery, arriving at midnight. About halfway down I could hear thunder then saw lightning to the north and hoped I could make it down the pass before the storm came this way. Fortunately I made it all the way down and my eyes got accustomed to the dark. Perhaps I earned the stripes of the Cat having conquered the pass! Along the cycleway the ducks in the Leysse stream were going mad! There was a lot of noise and wing flapping; possibly it was the impending storm. I made it all the way into Chambery before the storm started. Unfortunately I went too far and ended up in Cognin, a district south of the town and by now the rain was torrential. I took shelter in a telephone kiosk to check on how to get to the town centre. It was only a kilometre away and once there I asked at a café that was just closing at midnight on how to get to Hotel Ibis. The bartender gave me a map and told me to head out on the road to Aix – I had just come from there! I was getting nearer though. The hotel itself was further out from the town than I thought, at le Molard and just behind a large retail park. It had stopped raining now but I was soaked, but I found out later that most things in my panniers were dry. I was glad I wrapped everything inside the panniers in two thick, large plastic bags. I was doubling back on myself here, as I’d come this way on the cycle path, which was just the other side of the main road. If I had known I would have reached the hotel before midnight and maybe also have dodged the storm. I asked again at a cinema in a retail park or out of town complex where the Hotel Ibis was. I was directed to it, only 5 minutes away from here and eventually found the hotel but couldn’t find the way in! I asked some road workmen, one of them took me to the gate and pointed out the intercom on a post near the gate. I gave my name and explained I had a reservation and the gate slid open. The workman shook my hand and wished me ‘bon nuit’ It wasn’t until 01.00 that I finally reached the Hotel Ibis, 3km out of Chambery in the direction I had come in. Earlier I had to endure torrential rain but as it turned out this was the only rain I had on the whole holiday. Although I had difficulty finding the hotel it was a welcome rest at that time of the morning. This was the only pre booked accommodation I had made before leaving home but I was so glad I did. The total price was 57 €, (£38), a bit steep but I was bound to find a lot cheaper accommodation than this through the next 12 days. I dried out my clothes and a few other things that got wet, had a shower and got everything ready for in the morning. My bike was tucked away in one of the hotel conference rooms near the reception and I went to sleep at 01.45, hoping I would get out early enough in the morning.
Wednesday 18th June 2003 Chambery to Albertville over the Chartreuse 2497 to 2565, 69 miles From Chambery 09.00, Albertville 20.00
The rain had cleared the air last night and it was a pleasant fresh morning as I headed out for the Chartreuse district between Chambery and Grenoble. After paying the hotel bill and not bothering with breakfast I was on the road for 09.00 and immediately got confused missing the road back to town completely and ending up in a large retail park car park area. Eventually found my way out and on to the road that led into town, Rue Sommelier, past the station and on to the main junction of roads in Chambery centre where the statue of the three elephants heads are. This is an impressive statue but why elephants? Does it have anything to do with Hannibal crossing the Alps or did they know I was coming? Past the café where I asked about the hotel in torrential rain at midnight and on to a patisserie on the road to Cognin. I had bought from here just before I turned off for the Col du Granier last year and remembered that the chocolate pain from here are particularly good, so I made this my breakfast stop. From Cognin I was leaving Chambery and it was a very slight rise as far as St Thibaude Couz then a bit steeper to the Col de Couz (10.15). It was really hardly any effort getting up the col, no steep sections but on the other side it is a long sweep down under Mont Beauvoir and through the small gorge of Grottes des Echelles to reach les Echelles (10.35) that was bypassed by staying on the main road and on to St Laurent du Pont where I stopped for coffee for ½ an hour at a café to the right of the crossroads in the village. From here the gradual up started to reach the Massif de la Chartreuse range up the Gorges du Guiers Mort, a fairly easy route up with white cliffs on either side to reach la Diat junction for either St Pierre de Chartreuse and the Col du Cucheron or directly south over the Col de Porte and down again to Grenoble. I chose to go the first way for a kilometre steep climb into St Pierre then the further 4km less steep to Col du Cucheron at 13.00. St Pierre was full of cyclists with their bikes propped up outside the few cafes in the village. The col was interesting as there was a distant view over the other side looking north but I wasn’t going that way. I turned around and freewheeled back to St Pierre and la Diat and took the road for Col de Porte for my second BIG of the tour. It wasn’t a difficult climb up through the woods but it was rather warm. It was steeper near to the top, arriving at 15.00. I had hoped to find a café open for a celebration drink of climbing my first new BIG of the tour but it was closed. I continued on through the woods then barren landscape for 5km to the top of the Charmant Som. The road reaches 14% gradients in places and once through the woods it’s rocky then alpine pastures to the top. There’s a great view from the top but I didn’t walk to the panorama point at 1867 metres as it would have meant an hour’s walk. I turned around at Bergeries and returned to Col de Porte and back down the same way until I reached Cherlieu off to the right, halfway down the Col de Porte. This is a real farming community, up at first then down through Brevardiere, right then right again at the bottom of the hill to begin the climb up through the trees to Col du Coq, aptly named for this area! There are some steep sections along here but mainly in the woods so sheltered from the hot sun. At the top is the large massif of Dent de Crolles immediately in front that looks like a huge molar. Steeply down the other side in open country with great views of the Isere valley, Grenoble and across to Belledonne. This side is also a farming community. There are some places where cables are used down the mountainside to transport milk churns in boxes. The whole area is pastoral and this continues along the stretch of the Plateau des Petit Roches where I went next through St Pancrasse, St Hilaire and down the mountainside from St Bernard to la Terrasse. From there I crossed the Isere valley, over the bridge and into Tencin on the other side, along the busy road only as far as Goncelin where I noticed a sign for ‘le Gare’ so I took it, off to left. I was very fortunate because there was a train due in shortly at 18.30 to Montmelian, arriving at 18.49. From there, across to the other platform at this small junction for the Aix to Bourg St Maurice train at 19.01 for Albertville at 19.32 and hopefully find a hotel for the night. The second train was delayed for ½ an hour at St Pierre d’Albigny, it had broken down. This was the first of a few problems on SNCF over the next few days. The train arrived in Albertville eventually at 20.00 but there was ample time to find a hotel and somewhere to buy a meal. I headed for the Hotel Million in the centre as I’ve stopped there twice before and know it’s good. Unfortunately it was full and I was directed to Hotel le Roma on the other side of town. I paid 55€ (£36) but it was a good room in an annex and well away from the road so I had a good night’s sleep. I stored the bike in a side room off the lobby by the reception and made my way back to the room past the swimming pool and bar where there was a conference going on and people stared at me in my bike clothing. All told I think I had a more interesting day than they did. I slept at 23.00 so I could get away earlier tomorrow.
Thursday 19th June 2003 Albertville to Aime 2566 to 2623, 57 miles From Alberville 09.00, Aime 19.00
Setting off at 09.00 along the main road and a quick stop at MacDonald’s for a coffee and breakfast then back through the town and took the turn off over the Isere bridge, left and then began the climb away from Albertville and headed for Beaufort. I reached Villard sur Doran at 10.15 and began the climb up the second BIG of the tour, the Signal de Bisanne. I stopped a short way up and put on cream and insect repellent. I really didn’t want those flies buzzing around my ears and handlebars. I enjoy French fries but not French flies. The road starts off in the shelter of the trees then becomes more pastoral on the way up. I was following a bread van for a few kilometres that kept stopping to make deliveries to the houses all along the road. Les Pachons came in sight, this is no longer a village but has been developed into a winter and summer resort (hiver and ete) It took me 2 hours to get up there and when I did it wasn’t obvious where the actual col was. I took the turning for it, that was signposted but the two ways round by road ended at a viewpoint at the highest point in the resort village with a great view across of Mont Blanc. I came back down and tried another road to the left but that just went back down again – or did it? I didn’t explore down there far enough, perhaps that was the road and it ascended again after a short distance. No matter, I took the middle road and found a track with the signpost ‘Tour de Bisanne’, so I took that. The track goes up some distance but it is perfectly rideable with good treads. There are wild flowers in abundance and great views of the white mass of Mont Blanc on the way up before the track veers around to the left and disappears in the trees, 3 km later the mast that marks the top of the Signal de Bisanne is reached. I came back the same way but I’m sure there must be an easier way to get to the top but I never did find the road. Is it off the road to Col des Saisies a bit further along? I went along that road a short way but it was so hot and seemed pointless because I have been over the col 3 years ago, didn’t particularly want to spend time visiting it again and also I needed time to pass over the Cormet d’Areches later and down to Aime (pronounced aymee). I came back down the same way in double quick time. My brakes need adjustment so must see to them before the next big descent. Back to Villard at 13.45. I wanted to get some drink and fruit from the supermarche but of course it was siesta time. Continued on along the valley to Beaufort and filled my bottles up from the fountain at the foot of the Areches road, just in front of the smart restaurant where people were scoffing the Beaufort cheese. I only wanted water. It’s a steep rise away from Beaufort, a few hairpins above the church spire then away from the small town following the grassy slopes to le Praz. Looking back over Beaufort I could make out the lay of the land around Signal de Bisanne and the village resort up there. I was now on a more gentle road on to Areches. I needed more water here having just drunk 2 litres getting here, the sun was a scorcher! There was a village ceremony taking place. Some young lads and girls carrying bunches of long wheat stalks led the way followed by adults and marched across to the church as I passed. I didn’t stop to find out what it was about. I wasn’t in the right gear so walked up a very steep section that I didn’t see as it was obscured by the village houses. I mounted again at the level bridge over the stream then continued up the steep section that became easier after passing the turning for Col du Pre. I didn’t want to waste time on the 4km steep climb of 500 metres to the col that opens up the way down to Barrage de Roselend but continued on through the scattered houses of St Barbe to reach the huge wall of the Barrage de St Guerin. Just before the barrage the road continues off to the left and a few virages, some steepness and soon to the top of the dam where I could see below that a road goes across the wall of the dam to the other side of the reservoir. It must end at the other side but a track goes on to Col de la Louze and down the other side to Notre Dame de Briancon at the foot of the Col de la Madeleine. It may be worth an exploration along there some future year. My route now though was from the dam after a short stop and asking another cyclist the right road for Cormet d’Areches. I chatted for a while with a Dutch couple then moved off past the small closed café (wishing it was open) and up the narrow road that remains surfaced for the next 3 km as it winds away up from the reservoir. Looking back there are some great views of the reservoir and the mountains to the north. Not too far away from the reservoir I saw ahead of me a huge waterfall and a building above it that is marked along side the top of the pass on the map, so I knew where I was heading for. Very soon though, in the open alpine meadows, the tarmac ends and the track begins. It isn’t too rough, most of it rideable with 700 x 35mm tyres with a good tread but some of the virages are tricky so had to be careful or walk at those sections. I did a fair bit of walking but on some of the steep sections it’s not much quicker to ride on the rough track anyway. I thumbed a lift from a passing landrover at one point but he did a bit of sign language as he passed to suggest that perhaps I would be sleeping on the mountain tonight! It took me a couple of hours from the dam to the col summit but it was worth it. There are fantastic views all round. Unlike the neighbouring Col de Roselend though, there are no views of Mont Blanc in the distance but I’ve had my share of that today. The track climbs to the left of the waterfall and I was disappointed to find that when I was near it the track had already skirted over the top of it and was now along side the stream that plunges down it. Just a short way further then the col emerges suddenly with a sharp turn to the left. I took the obligatory photos of the wooden summit marker at 17.45. A German motorist stopped for a chat while I was there. It was nice to be able to use my German briefly and he was telling me of his day’s adventure and asked me where I was going. So down to Aime I went, helmet on and a long descent past herds of cows with farmers out herding the cows for milking with their milking machines by the side of the track. There are some steep sections down here and the stony track stays that way almost to the foot of the pass, which is a bit of a disappointment, but then I suppose it deters all but the most determined motorists from passing over here. It really is a biker’s paradise and despite the length of time taken, the heat and steepness I really enjoyed the experience of this pass. I consider it is worthy of its place in the list of the Brevet Internationale Grimpeur (B.I.G). At a wooden bridge I took a photo of another waterfall on this side of the pass and was amazed to see two gorgeous girl cyclists on mountain bikes, carrying no bags (what, ladies with no bags!) going in the opposite direction. It was now 18.30 so to be sure they would be sleeping on the mountain tonight. I carried on in the same direction – that is the opposite way! At about 2km above Granier, at a small village and a sharp turning to the right, the tarmac begins again and it’s a good road all the way down the rest of the mountain. Through sleepy Granier, past a bunch of lounging cyclists and I took the turning for Aime as opposed to la Cote d’Aime. The road was smoother and wider all the way down. There are great views of la Plagne across the valley, and also along the valley to Moutiers. I was soon down in the streets of Aime and was wondering, looking down on the descent into the village at le Gare, if there was a train heading for Albertville or even Grenoble this late in the day (19.00) I asked the way to le Gare, checked the timetable but found out there were no more trains going that way today, only a train going the opposite direction to Bourg St Maurice. I noticed there was a train in the morning at 05.37 and wondered if I could catch this. For now my priority was to find a hotel. I tried one by the village shops but it was very gloomy inside, didn’t like the look of it so tried somewhere else. I found a hotel not far from la Gare, the Hotel du Cormet. This was 40€ (£26) for the night. I paid Madame, as I wanted to leave early tomorrow. She was busy swatting flies in the bar and I was pointing them out to her – un, duh, twa! They were all lined up at the bar. She gave me the key (clay) to get my bike out of the small cupboard in the changing room in the morning and instructed me to leave it with my room key hanging up in the hall before I leave. After a quick change I went in search of a supermarket. The Casino near the station had just closed at 19.30 but I found one open opposite the first hotel I called at. I bought some beer, nuts, biscuits and also some pineapple juice for the bike bottles for tomorrow. I went out for a meal at the nearby restaurant after having a bath. I had a cheese tagliatelli with a side salad and water (I had bought a bottle of beer for having in the hotel room later). There were some German tourists here at the outside tables talking with a Parisian in English. I didn’t want to let on as they were deep in conversation and I didn’t want to stay after the meal but go for an early night at 22.30 and attempt the 05.37 train for Grenoble in the morning. The beer soon sent me off to sleep. I set the alarm for 04.45.
Friday 20th June 2003 Aime to La Grave 2624 to 2687, 63 miles From Aime 05.37 train, Le Grave 19.45
After 6 hours sleep did I really get my money’s worth for that brief night? I set the alarm for 04.45 and was out at 05.15, having sorted out the bags and having clothing ready last night. I was feeling a bit sleepy and made that conscious effort to ensure I left the cubicle key where the bike was stored with my room key on the wall hanger in the hall as instructed. I had a couple of yoghurts and a few biscuits for breakfast then let myself out and meandered across to le gare for the 05.37 train for Montmelian. I wasn’t sure which platform the train would be coming in on. Taking a look at the track gave a good clue. The far track is a loop and doesn’t seem to be used much as the nearside track is a lot shinier. Also the overhead screen on the near platform detailed the train stops even if it didn’t indicate the quai. Eventually another person turned up for the train and waited on the same side so I readied myself by taking off the panniers. My ticket wasn’t checked for the whole journey, on this train and the connection to Grenoble. I was using the train a lot on this holiday and never once, on any journey from today was my ticket looked at. If I were a full fare-paying passenger I would have saved a few hundred euro! There were not many people on the train that runs from Bourg St Maurice to Lyon. It was the usual long distance train with carriages and there was space so I lay my bike down in the coach end vestibule and went to sleep. At Montmelian I changed trains to the adjoining platform, a ten-minute wait and the train from Aix to Grenoble arrived. The other train was a basic provincial service and smart people travelling to their offices. I looked a bit out of place but then the train was dingy enough. It arrived in Grenoble on time, passing Goncelin station where I had boarded to go the opposite direction the other day. I delayed too much at Grenoble station and missed the one car connecting service for Gap which I could have taken as far as Vizille a few kilometres south of Grenoble and gained time. I found the platform just as it was going out. I could have missed the sprawl of Grenoble suburbs, finding the right road out, the bike lanes over busy road junctions and a flat uninteresting road as far as Vizille. I could also have gained two hours cycling time and maybe have reached the top of the Col du Lautaret and down to Briancon instead of stopping short at La Grave. I had a coffee and breakfast in MacDonald’s in centre ville then made my way out, south along the long bike lane parallel to the busy road to Vizille (09.15). I decided not to stop even though there is the wonderful chateau and grounds to look at. I enjoyed this last year going in the opposite direction so didn’t want to use any more time as I wanted to keep to the day’s itinerary. The road to le Bourg-d’Oisans was busy but after Livet the scenery becomes more interesting as the snow capped mountains north of le Bourg, les Grandes Rousses, come into view. From the road junction with the road to Col de la Croix de Fer (Cross of Iron col) the way to le Bourg is easy and I arrived at 11.40. I had an hour in le Bourg and shopped at the Casino supermarket just before closing at midday and ate a sandwich, fruit and a Yop yoghurt drink to give me the energy for l’Alpe-d’Huez. I set off along the road to the foot of the pass at 12.40, had a look at the waterfall off to the right behind the campsite and applied insect repellent and creamed myself up for the steady climb up l’Alpe-d’Huez. It took me until 15.10 – 2½ hours- to reach the top but then who’s counting? I was so slow that a Scottish couple who I met a few kilometres up from the pass overtook me a couple of times - and they were walking! They had missed a bus back to Grenoble from le Bourg and had time to kill before their next bus at 18.30 so they had decided to walk up the pass. They had arrived in Grenoble a week ago and were staying to work in Grenoble for a year. I only wanted a couple of months, not being greedy but how I envied them. I stopped at la Garde where we chatted for a while on the bench in front of the church. She was busty taking photos of the flowers while we chatted about walking in the Alps. He fancied the idea of walking up the south side of the Galibier tomorrow, no doubt they would beat me up there also. I had my photo taken by a professional photographer standing waiting for me on the road at the 19th virage. He gave me his card and two weeks later at home I emailed and received a reply with the photo proofs and price list. I decided to order some photos, as it’s rare to have a photo taken on the bike and with the Alps in the background. It cost a mint but they would be good to have. I lazed around at l’Alpe-d’Huez for a while, called in at the tourist information office for my certificate and asked them to post it to me, which they said they had never done before. “Yes you have! You posted one to me last year when after cycling here in 2000” “OK then but it will cost you a euro”. I didn’t think that was too bad so willingly paid it, and given a receipt. The certificate arrived at home on 12th July. I took some photos of bikes propped up into an ornamental roundabout where the two roads into the resort come together higher up. This is for le Tour; which is due to arrive here on their stage finish on Sunday 13th July. From this point, down the hill a little then left and off past the heliport and Club Med and other new hotels around this section of the resort that was still being constructed and then quite suddenly into open country on a narrow lane that led down to a stream then gradually up along the valley to the head then a steep section on a red surface road that led to the mountain huts around Col de Sarennes. I parked the bike, now 17.00, and took a few photos of the peaceful scene, no cars passed me while I was at the col. I scrambled up the short rise to the south of the road and could see down into a vast bowl towards le Chambon. Although it was an easy road getting up, a fairly good surface with a few potholes to watch out for, the way down the other side was a bit trickier. There were short sections with large stones that had fallen onto the rougher surface on this side. The stones had fallen from the slopes and lay along the road in many places over the first 4 kilometres down the other side of the pass. Eventually though the road was clear allowing for a speedier descent but it is a long way down – at Clavans d’en Haut before there is a sensible surface for letting go of the brakes. After the Besse junction the road is wider but then a slight uphill for about 200 metres then a long sweep down on a good surface to Mizoen and in the shade of the mountains to the north, joining the main road above Barrage du Chambon at 18.30 then through a series of tunnels to pass into the Department Haute Alpes Cote du Azur on the way to la Grave, along the Combe de Malaval. This is a gradual ascent of the lower part of the Col du Lautaret with the majestic white peaks and glaciers of la Meije to the south (right) of the road. This view continues all the way on the upward road to La Grave. I had run out of time and thought it sensible to finish here at 19.45 rather than continue up the col for another hour or so. I may find a hotel there but needed some time to relax so called it a day at la Grave. I called in at the Hotel Castillan to the left of the main road in the village and found a room for 40.00€ with a balcony and a great view of la Meije in all its glory. I wish I had known there was a swimming pool at the hotel, I only found out too late when I picked up the hotel’s brochure. I tried to get a meal at the hotel but they had now stopped serving meals at 21.00 so I wandered down the road and had a meal at the nearby Lou Ratel” where a Parisian was rattling on to 3 reluctant conversationalists from Stuttergart (pun intended, he stuttered a lot) on his wonderful country and that the whole world should come to see France. I didn’t want to join in the conversation at those outside tables as I wanted to enjoy my meal peacefully and the Parisian was so loud. I was willing him to go so that I could enjoy my tagliatelli in peace. He was gone soon enough and I enjoyed the rest of my meal and the fading light over the la Meije. Sleep came soon enough.that night
Saturday 21st June La Grave to Sisteron 2688 to 2766, 78 miles From La Grave 09.00, Sisteron 19.00, 10 hours
I was up raring to go again at 08.00. First of all I took a picture first thing from the balcony of La Meije in the morning light. Started the day on a hot ride up to the Col du Lautaret, arriving at 10.15. Shortly after leaving Le Grave there is a tunnel to negotiate and the road climbs up through it making the tunnel seem longer than it really is. Shortly after the tunnel the road twists up past Villar d’Arene, a turning to the right. It is possible to go through the village and rejoin the main road a kilometre further along just to get off the main road for a while. It’s a steady climb to the pass with great views looking back to la Meije and also to the Pics de Combeynot ahead. When the small conical hill comes into view to the right of the road you know that the top of the col is near. One last long stretch then a final turn to the left and the cafes at the summit can be seen. I had a coffee and croissant at the café to the left, at the Galibier road junction and lingered for a while. I asked if I could leave my bags there while I rode on at 11.00 with helmet strapped to the rack and packed with camera and map. Pedalling light it was an easy climb up the Col du Galibier in 50 minutes. I stayed for ½ an hour up there on the ‘perch’. The summit is only a narrow stretch and its only possible for a few cars to park up there but then that’s good for the cyclists! The view that day was so clear in all directions, not a cloud in the sky. I asked a German biker to take my photo at the altitude marker. “Macht mein foto, bitte?” “Kein problem”. An English chap strolled up and recognised the Geoff Longstaff frame. He said he had heard of him and asked about my trip. He was travelling about by car and bike and cycling the passes, using the car over the connecting distances. The last time I was here in 2000 the tunnel under the pass wasn’t open but now most of the traffic goes under rather than over. There are traffic lights (fire lights the French call them in their English translation) at either end of the tunnel because it is only wide enough for one-way traffic. It was a speedy descent back to the Col du Lautaret at 12.20 then a fast ride down to Briancon at 13.00, hardly stopping. There was a train from le Gare at 14.45 going to Romans via l’Argentiere la Bessee where I wanted to go next, but I didn’t want to wait that long. I could be in the village for that time. I rode on with a level road as far as St Blaise then a rise as far as Prelles. There are great views down the valley of the Durance after Prelles. The railway appears and disappears along the gorge way down below. There is an old chapel called St Hippolyte that stands on a rock overlooking the gorge in a picturesque setting. Following this I enjoyed a fast descent to l’Argentiere, tried to get a meal there but at 14.30 I was too late. I bought a couple of drinks in a bar then struck north to Vallouise, an easy road to that point but after the village the climbing starts as the road ascends towards Pre de Madame Carle with the Barre des Ecrins closing in on all sides. The road becomes narrow after Ailefroide – and much steeper with a couple of severe climbs. It is not possible to take a bike past Refuge Cezanne unless it’s the mountain bike variety – VTT as the French call them. (Velo touts terrain – bikes for the terrain). Fast back down the pass to l’Argentiere and caught a train to Gap. There was no connecting service for Sisteron until 18.45 so there was nothing else for it but to bike along Route Napoleon and the Durance valley near Tallard. There’s an airfield here and there were plenty of small aircraft taking off and landing very close to the road. South of Tallard the main road continues side by side with the autoroute but as the French motorway is a toll system and priced on kilometre distances not many motorists opt for the autoroute but stay on the main road. Having said that the main road wasn’t too busy. It took me from 16.15 until 19.00 from Gap to Sisteron, a distance of 30 miles in the blazing sun. It was noticeably hotter than around Briancon earlier today. I should have taken a more direct diversion for le Poet, and a change of road and perhaps have got that cold drink I needed. The situation wasn’t too bad though as I had plenty of water on the frame. Sisteron seemed to appear suddenly after the road junction with the Larange route, following the railway as well as the autoroute into the town. The autoroute does a disappearing act under la Baume on the other side of the Durance and comes out again on the other side of the river south of the town. It was a nice approach into the town, down to the Buech river that joins the Durance then up again between the huge rock of la Baume and the citadel on the left bank. I rode around the town, along the narrow street with its gutters across that slows down any traffic – but most traffic sensibly takes the road tunnel to the right on entering the town from the north. I bought some fruit, yoghurt and juice for tomorrows ride and beer for later. There were no hotels that way so I made my way back down the narrow street to the Hotel Citadel and found a room for 31.00€. I had a lasagne and water, sitting outside at La Voute restaurant, along the narrow town street after a shower and change. That was 7.80€. I showed myself up with the locals by not even being able to ask for l’eau correctly. It’s ‘lerr’ not ‘low’ – stupid! After this it was back to the hotel and an early night, as tomorrows plan would take in the Ventoux and probably my longest day’s distance. I closed the shutters from the noise below and slept solid.
Sunday 22nd June Sisteron to Avignon (and train to Toulon) 2766 to 2876 09.00 to 21.30, 00.30 in Toulon, 110 miles
From Sisteron at 08.45 and didn’t bother with breakfast. Bread rolls and jam don’t make for an appetising breakfast. It would be just great to have a full English fry up to really fill me up. I will make do with fruit and yoghurt along the road. I took the road south out of Sisteron, passing a round tower and the tourist information then along a tree lined boulevard, passing the station on the left and on to the road junction signposted Vallee de Jabron on D946. At Pecoule I stopped to cream up and was passed by scores of motor bikers going my way. Many of them swarmed like flies around the café on the main road in Noyers sur Jabron. I continued on, not needing to rest just yet. There were hundreds of bikers parked up just off the main road near Piedguichard and many of them passed me later as I rode through the scattered village of St Vincent, no cafes here. The road becomes a little hillier after this point. I continued on into Montfroc in the southernmost part of department Drome. It’s in a small projection dipping south into Alpes de Haute Provence. As I entered in a sign welcomes the traveller into Drome, on leaving the village it says ‘thank you for visiting Drome!’ I filled my bottles with cool water replacing the sun-warmed variety that is not pleasant to drink. Shortly I arrived in les Omergues and stopped to buy a Magnum ice from the café here, the first café seen since Noyers. I had ½ an hour here before the climb to the first col of the day, the Col de la Pigiere. This is a straightforward easy road passing the source of the Jabron. It’s a bit dusty at the top where the departments Drome and Alpes de Haute Provence meet again. From the top there is a road going on to Col du Negron, 300 metres higher but I gave that a miss. Some cyclists passed me at the top, going the other way. I took the usual photo of the summit marker then freewheeled down among the olive trees to the road junction for Sederon at la Tuiliere. From here there is a sharp left and a sudden rise again for the climb up the more difficult Col de Macuegne. The road twists a fair deal for the last quarter and the col itself can be seen to the left but lower down it is necessary to follow the slope contour to the right then swing round to it. It was good to know where the top was seeing it from about ½ way down. Once reached the view to the west opens up and I had my first view of the mighty Ventoux over the valley and took a few photos. The Ventoux didn’t look high from this point but on arriving in Sault later I had a different perspective. Even from this distance the white limestone that covers the top kilometres of the roads over the Ventoux can clearly be seen. I decided against taking the freewheeling route to Montbrun les Bains but stayed at the height and struck south through the woods to Col de l’Homme Mort (The pass of the dead man?). I was on the Montagne d’Albion and on the highest point in the area after the Ventoux. Over the top of the pass the road becomes wider after a few kilometres and down through Ferrassieres. Because of the heat and the white houses in this area there is some resemblance, with wild imagination, to cycling around the Greek Islands. It’s easy to miss the road to Sault from here but I spotted it. A motorist didn’t though, he had to back up having just missed it as the signpost is quite small indicating Sault. Along the D63, down all the way to it’s junction with D1 then onto the St Trinit to Sault road, a few twists and turns, past a campsite and into the small town of Sault at 13.00 at 2806 on the speedo. I stayed for 1½ hours and had spaghetti and mince and a couple of cokes at the restaurant with seating outside looking from the veranda to Ventoux over the Nesque river. Some cyclists at the café who had left before me were returning back from the other side of the Nesque valley as I started my climb of the Ventoux lower slopes toward the white chapel on the right. Who were they trying to kid? They had only been up a short rise. Perhaps they were having a warm up! I plodded on through the woods and reached the chapel and rested a while shaded from the heat by a lean-to on the other side of the road from the chapel. There were some walking sticks in there so I grabbed one and walked up the stony path to the chapel, but it was locked. After a couple of yoghurts and a banana I was stoked up with energy and didn’t stop again until I reached Chalet Reynard at 16.20 at 2818 on the speedo. There is a level section of road at about 2 km before the Chalet then a final climb up to it. I had a coke at the café, served by a girl who looked totally fed up. Some cyclists had stopped on their way down from the summit and drank from the tap just by the café. I filled my bottles up when I left about 20 minutes later. The scenery suddenly changes from this point as the woods come to an end at the junction of roads with the road coming up from Bedoin. From here on it really is like a moonscape and the sun bounces off the white limestone making it an awesome white, glistening mass in the hot sun. Fortunately I had my sunglasses and I really couldn’t be without them. The climb begins immediately from Chalet Reynard, very steep to begin with but less steep after about 1km. By the Tom Simpson memorial stone on the right it gets a bit steeper again and the last section before the looming white tower is the steepest section of all on the route up from Sault. I stopped at the Tom Simpson memorial, together with an English family who offered to take my picture at the memorial stone. The col itself is called Col des Tempetes that is on the ridge called Mont Ventoux. Vent means wind so I suppose the mountain is descriptive but there wasn’t much wind today. I got there at 17.20 and stayed until 18.30. The view to the south was very hazy. On a clear day it is possible to see the Mediterranean but not today. I bought a key ring of Mont Ventoux with a cyclist on one side and ‘I did it!’ on the other. It was very steep going down the other side of the mountain, turning right at the top then swinging around the back of the observatory and holding on to my brakes along the narrow twisting road. Past the huge white globe which was before me then behind me as I took a hairpin bend, down to Mont Serein a ski resort and a cul de sac behind the mountain on the north slope. From here there is a sharp virage to the left then it’s all down the mountain on a wider and safer road where I could safely pump my brakes through the woods and descend rapidly to Malaucene at 19.15. I shopped at the Casino before it closed, bought a ½ litre of milk that I downed without coming up for air then headed south through the narrow streets and up for a short distance, looking back to the Ventoux and the white tower that marks the summit. At le Barroux there is an impressive castle but I didn’t want to stop, as I wanted to get to Toulon tonight if at all possible. The road continues down all the way to Carpentras. I took my last look back to the Ventoux as I reached the outskirts of the town and almost got run into by two girls on a lambretta that pulled out in front of me. I shouted and all they did was laugh. There is an old aqueduct, a synagogue and an ancient cathedral in Carpentras and I missed them all in my rush for the coast. From what I briefly saw of it I wasn’t impressed with the town. It looks a bit dingy. I continued on and heading for Avignon along a busy, boring gradually down gradient main road that became an autoroute at le Pontet. For those last four kilometres it was not possible – and it was far too dangerous – to ride a bike. There are blue signs up indicating cars only even though this was only shown as a main road on the Michelin map. I took the road south to join the N100 then west again into Avignon along a cycleway at the side of the road. I reached Avignon at 21.15 just as it was going dark; the reading was 2863 on the speedo. I asked some traffic cops at the city wall for directions to le Gare. They told me to follow the road outside the wall for about 2km and the station was on the left. Sure enough there it was, easy enough to find. I was in luck, the train departure board indicated a train at 21.51 to Marseilles, arriving 23.00. I lumbered the bike down and up the subway to the far platform and boarded the train, putting the bike in the luggage van at the end of the train. Again, nobody checked my ticket. I didn’t stay here long (I would have that ‘thrill’ tomorrow). There was another train from Marseilles at 23.32 to Toulon, arriving 00.30. The train was late leaving but as long as I could find a hotel I wasn’t too bothered. This was a double decker train and was very crowded.
In Toulon I found a hotel to the left of the station for 40.00€. The bike safely tucked away behind the reception and me tucked away in bed after a long soak in the bath and a celebration beer from the mini bar. It was about 02.30 when I finally entered the Land of Nod.
Monday 23rd June Toulon to Chorges 2877 to 2884 REST DAY 08.45 to 21.00, train from Toulon to Marseilles and Marseilles to Chorges
No breakfast and out of the hotel at 08.45 with only the bare essentials. Madame seemed surprised that I would want to climb up Mont Faron but that was what I was here for, a long way south from my main route. Later I hoped to reach Guillestre at the end of the day but it didn’t quite turn out that way. It was warm already as I made my way inland and up away from the city. From le Gare there were indications for Mont Faron so I followed them. It was a sure indication when all the roads led up but I was a bit confused when I came to a sign to the right that said Belvedere de Faron. I followed it and came to a cul de sac at the end of some houses on a slope up. I continued on, went down a short way, which was a bit disconcerting but then came to another indicator that pointed to Mont Faron. I followed this and the road narrowed as it hugs the hillside for a gradual ascent past olive and pine trees. I passed a French cyclist repairing his tube on the road so thought I was getting warm. Yes, this was the road, it continued up among white rocks, glaring in the sun and after many twists and turns with fantastic views of Toulon and the port laid out below, I finally arrived at the Beaumont Memorial to the Second World War, the Allied liberation of South West France. There is an American tank and cannon up here at the point where the ridge overlooks a view to the north. First there was a café, which was closed, and the top end of the cable car route. I continued on, level at first then up a bit more to reach the col itself at Fort de la Croix Faron at 10.05. It is a one-way system from Toulon and back down again which is just as well because these roads are narrow and the way down is close packed virages to Fort Faron, along the corniche and completes the circle at St Anne’s Hospital where I started. The bottom end of the cable car route is also here. All that was only a short distance, about 4.5 miles, back to the hotel at 10.45 (and I said to Madame before starting that I would take two hours) and except for a short ride from la Batie Neuve to Chorges later that would constitute all my riding for today.
I did a stupid thing at the station and put my bike on the escalator to the platform above, the bike fell on top of me! The 11.38 train to Marseilles arrived at 12.35 but I had a long wait for a train from Marseilles for the Briancon train. The first train scheduled to depart Marseilles at 14.13 was cancelled because no locomotive turned up. I joined a couple from Holland who were also trying to head north for Sisteron after helping them to put there bikes on a train that was going nowhere. As we walked together to the nearby bus station we were told that we were not allowed to board the bus for Gap without tickets. We explained we had train tickets and that we were told to report for a replacement bus service but still we were not allowed to travel. Another train left at 17.11 but the engine exploded on this four car local train at les Cheminant a small village between Gap and la Batie Neuve, on the road to Chorges. Everybody evacuated from the train. Ambulances arrived on the scene very quickly to take away the injured and two fire engines doused the flames coming from the underside of the leading carriage. I pushed the bike along the track in the opposite direction and after a search for a safe way down, scrambled down the bank to a road following the track, first the bike then the bags. After Re-assembling I was on my way, past the scene and all the passengers and rode east on the Gap to Chorges road, arriving in Chorges at 21.00. I found a good hotel there at a reasonable price with the meal included for 40.00€ - and a half carafe of wine. There was a pasta starter then steak and salad with potatoes, followed by ice cream. I had a short walk around Chorges afterwards. There is a fountain on the centre of the village that is quaint with ornate houses around the open area. Back to the room, sorted out the bags and got my clothing out for tomorrow then to sleep just before midnight.
Tuesday 24th June Chorges to Barcelonnette 2885 to 2938, 54 miles 09.00 to 19.15
I didn’t bother with breakfast after that good meal last night. I had plenty of energy to bike from Chorges to Embrun, 14 miles in ¾ of an hour arriving at 10.00. The road to Lac de Serre Poncon is gradually downhill with great views of the mountains ahead. This is the area I was heading for. I took a photo of St Michel’s chapel in the lake then glided down to the bridge and joined a traffic queue. The road over the bridge was being re-surfaced so it was one-way traffic controlled by traffic lights. As the lights changed I pelted along the bridge as the road was very narrow and cars couldn’t overtake me. It was in my interest to stay ahead with the stream of traffic behind me. When I reached the other side I met up with a French cyclist and stayed with him as far as Crots and his speed helped me to cover the distance quickly. It was a gradual climb up for the 5 miles to Crots but after that it was down to Embrun. The town streets were a bit worse for wear with potholes and the road was very busy made worse with a climb up from the Durance at the head of the lake. In Embrun I found the cathedral were there where many tourists. Behind the cathedral is a wall beyond which there is a long drop to the Durance. I got a bit confused with directions here. An old gentleman told me to carry on to the left past the cathedral then turn right, back to the main road then an immediate left turn signposted Rue St Andre. This was the D944 that drops steeply into the Durance valley then I took a left turn over the bridge. It was 10.40 and at this point I saw a van with a trailer carrying about a dozen mountain bikes so thought this was a good indication I was on the right road. Sure enough the next turning to the right indicated Crevoux. This is the D39a that skirts around the head of the valley above the Durance. There are great views looking back across to Embrun and Lac de Serre Poncon beyond that. Just then I was joined by a Dutchman on a mountain bike heading my way. I asked if he knew the tunnel at the top of the Parpallion was open. He said it was, he was there yesterday and was going up there again now. He said it was muddy inside the tunnel and the water was about a foot deep in places so I would have to wade through it. This was not a pleasant prospect but I carried on. He stayed with me for a few kilometres and told me he was here with his wife. She drove the car, left him at mountain passes and would collect him from another pre-arranged point later. That seems like a good idea, I must have words with Ruth about this. Through the woods to join the road from St Andre at les Vabres then I followed the wooded valley of the Crevoux stream, through the village of Praveyral, which at first I thought was Crevoux. Eventually reached Crevoux up a final sharp kilometre climb. I had a meal at the restaurant above the Gite from 13.30 – 14.00, a salad and hot pasta squares for 9.00€ and milk for 2.00€. I couldn’t eat it all so asked a French lady sitting nearby who I chanced knew a bit of English to ask Madame if I could take part of the meal with me. She understood and Madame gave me some silver foil. I ate the remainder at the top of the Parpaillon. My Dutch friend told me to take the road through la Chaip as the road surface continues for a few kilometres more this way but through Crevoux the road ends at a track. I saw the signpost for it when I was in the village and really didn’t fancy negotiating that route. I took his advice, went back down to the road junction and turned left for la Chaip. Sure enough the road continues for a few more kilometres up through the woods with plenty of twists and turns. I passed the point where the track from Crevoux joins and I was still on the road. The luxury of the smooth surface ended at a small bridge over the Meale stream. Just over that and a turn to the left the road becomes a stony track but with care it is perfectly rideable. The difficulties are at the virages but encouragement came my way very quickly to spur me on. My Dutch friend was bombing it down the track and stopped to tell me that as I had made it this far I would certainly make it to the tunnel (Why did he doubt?) This track is steep at first, he said, but after the white hut ahead the way becomes less steep until a short distance from the end. After about 2 kilometres from here the woods give way to open country. He went his way and feeling positive about conquering this pass I continued up, past the white hut, into the open country and what a view! I couldn’t see to the west as the track skirts under the ridge of Mont Pellat but here is true Alpine scenery with mountains all around. The track was easy going except for the last kilometre or so as the route twists up the mountainside and suddenly around the last bend is the tunnel at Col du Parpaillon. It took me 2½ hours from Crevoux to reach the tunnel at 17.00. At the tunnel entrance I took a few photos then took a preview into the tunnel to see if it was possible to ride through. It wasn’t! The best option was to take off my cycling shoes and socks then wade through the foot (150mm) depth of water This was crazy but there was no other way. I wasn’t going back down, Barcelonnette was my goal and I was determined to get there. I strapped my beach sandals on just in case there were any rocks under the muddy water. I couldn’t see anything in the tunnel but I had brought a powerful Maglite torch with me. With hands and torch firmly on the bars I waded slowly through the tunnel. After a short distance I could see the tunnel exit at the other end. There was a large hump in the middle as the track goes up slightly then down to the exit so from the entrance the other end could not be seen until part way up the hump and then only the top arch in the daylight of the exit in the distance. This felt like pot holing by bike and is a definite first! There are stones and some rocks in the mud so the way forward is not easy. The tunnel walls were dripping steadily with melting icy water. It is understandable why the road signs near Embrun indicate that this road is closed. This is only for 4 wheel drive land rovers and crazy cyclists. It is not possible to drive a car through this, or a motorbike – but having said that a couple on a motor bike passed me going up on my way down the other side. I know they made it, as they didn’t return before I reached the bottom of the pass. I washed my sandals from my water bottles and put them on my rack to dry then sat for a while to drip-dry in the hot sun. There was plenty of snow around the tunnel. It took me 1½ hours to carefully descend on the rough track. The first part of the descent is steep but when the Cima du Grand Parpaillon is reached the track becomes a gradual descent through the woods. At this point, looking back up the pass I really wouldn’t want to attempt the climb from this side, as it is much rougher. Even the path at the bottom just before the woods is very stony and would be impossible on a normal road bike like mine to attempt the ascent. For what seemed ages through the woods I reached St Anne’s at 18.30 and a road surface once again. My speedo reading at this point was 2926. The road widened at les Prats and I enjoyed a wide smooth surface for the last few kilometre descent to la Condamine-Chatelard. On to the main road with lorries thundering by that seemed an intrusion to the solitude of the mountains from before. On through Jausiers with happy memories of the Bonette to the left. I reached Barcelonnette at 19.15. I tried the cyclist’s hotel (Cheval Blanc) in the town but they had no vacancies. I took a room at Le Grand Hotel in the main square where I have stayed before. This was 49.00€, breakfast 6.00€, £39.07. I went out for a meal after a good long soak in the bath. The ‘le St Trop’z café was very good. I had salade Italienne (6.90€), a cheese and ham tagliatelle (8.50€), ½ litre pichet rouge vin (6.50€) and pression – beer (2.20€), total 24.10€ or £17.16. To sleep, full and satisfied with the day at 23.00
Wednesday 25th June Barcelonnette to Manosque 2939 to 3006, 67 miles 08.30 to 19.30
Had breakfast for once, seeing it was part of the price anyway. The usual tasteless dry rolls, jam and ever so sticky honey and warm but not hot coffee. It kept me going until midday though. I sat on the veranda looking down on the square and feeding the sparrows that came to the tables. They were a lot more grateful for the bread than I was. I walked round to the back of the hotel and grabbed my bike. Out along the main street, past the Allos and Cayolle signs and along the main road east at a fair pace to le Lauzet at 09.15 speedo reading 2952, average speed 17mph. At Pas de la Jour I took the road to the lake, all downhill as far as the short tunnel. This is in fact two tunnels, one set back from the other as the road splits temporarily at this point for one-way traffic through the tunnels. On the other side there is a gradual climb then a turn off to the right just over a small bridge simply indicated ‘Pontis D7’. There is an immediate 15% gradient through the woods and many virages as far as the only village, l’Adroit de Pontis then the road levels out in the clearing with great views back to the lake and to the west. Col de Pontis is not dramatic, just an up and over on a lane but the way up and down the other side through thick woods and then great views of the whole of the lake to north makes up for the unexciting summit. I reached Col de Pontis at 10.30, the speedo reading 2960. I enjoyed the descent. There’s an impressive white church at St Pierre, then the woods. Out of the woods many motorists had parked up for the views across the lake. St Michel’s chapel in the bay across the lake was impressive from this vantage point and I took a few photos on the way down. There was no sign of the Demoiselles coiffees from the pass. These tall, slender, funny shaped pinnacles of rock with boulders balanced on the tops can only be seen from the lakeside road. It is possible to walk to the top of the slope just above where they are from a footpath at St Pierre. I would see them later at the bottom of the pass and left for the head of the lake. They are about 2 km along the road from the foot of Pontis. I stopped at the café there and had a Magnum glace then it was a short climb up to le Sauze du Lac then a long sweep down along the north bank of the southern arm of the lake, past the Pontis turn off, through the tunnels and over the Ubaye bridge. At that point it’s a climb back up to Pas de la Jour but it’s a quiet road and very green compared to the roads around Lac de Serre Poncon. From here I turned right and began the climb signposted for Col St Jean but I wasn’t going that far. I was heading for Gap so my high point was at St Vincent les Forts at 13.50, speedo reading 2977. From there I enjoyed a long sweep along the south part of the lake and over the Durance at Espinasses with views back along the lake and over to Mt Colombis. The village is not worth a stop. I thought the area to be a bit unsightly. I passed on along the hot valley where vineyards cover the south slopes of Mt Colombis, and good views to the south. The mountain is quite barren especially on the upper slopes. I arrived in Remollon at 14.00, had a couple of ice cold cokes in the only bar there at this side of the village then struggled up Mount Colombis in the heat of the day. The road up the pass branches off at a sharp right and straight up the mountain relentlessly. I passed through vineyards on either side and the road is a good surface to begin with but deteriates nearer to the top after Theus. About 1 km from the top there is a very steep section then around to the right the red and white tower appears in the open scrubland at 11km up. It was a very tough ascent with gradients of 18% in places. The descent was refreshing after the heat but I really needed to pump the brakes coming down the upper slopes. From Remollen following the Durance on the Wine Route (Route de la Vin) this is a very good recently resurfaced road. There were no road markings on the black surface but perhaps that will have been done now. Was the road resurfaced for le Tour? Passing the road junction for Chorges I soon came to the road junction for Gap and followed the stream through the woods. There is a small white monument by the side of the road on the left to two members of the Marquis in their 20’s who were executed by the Gestapo here in 1944. After this there is a sharp rise for a kilometre or so then a drop down into Gap and along the tree lined avenue into the town. I passed through the town for the station. I had about an hour to spare for a train at to Veynes. I passed the time in the town and guzzled down a Yop drink, ½ a carton of strawberries and a cold beer bought from a grocer’s shop by the fountain. There were a lot of people eating and drinking at the restaurants around the open area but I was content to eat much more cheaply and sat on the fountain wall in the shade. The train broke down at Veynes so a coach was laid on to Marseilles. I was glad I was only going as far as Manosque. Déjà vu from last year, the very same thing happened then. The driver had to negotiate sharp turnings to get the bus to le gares en route, especially at Larange in the narrow streets and Sisteron where there were so many people milling about. One girl on a bike nearly caused an accident to herself by continually riding around the coach then pedalled off. At Chateau Arnoux the coach weaved through a housing estate and a factory car park before finally reaching le gare. The coach driver was fast though and arrived in Manosque at about ½ an hour later than the train was scheduled, which was pretty good going with all the obstacles on the way. I recovered my bike from the hold and the driver passed some coy remark to me that I didn’t understand so I nodded my head and smiled! I rode away from the station and found a hotel just across the road called Bel’Alp for 32.50€ plus tax, total 32.85€, £23.34. The room was unusual in that it was all grey plastic with red curtains. I put the bike in the room, lugging it up the outside stairs. First though I biked up the hill into Manosque town and through the main gate in the city wall, went through to the rear gate. Situated within the walls are two large open areas. One is called Place de l’Hotel de Ville. There were restaurants here and I found one that served pasta so went for that, locked the bike up nearby. At Cote Place restaurant I had: 1 cidre pression 100cl 9.60€, 1 salade Reiz 5.20€, 1 tagliatelles St Jaques 9.20€, total 24.00€, £17.13. After the meal freewheeled back down the hill to the hotel and slept soundly at 23.00. I prepared my bags and clothing for tomorrow before nodding off.
Thursday 26th June Manosque to Annot 3007 to 3099, 92 miles 08.15 to 20.10
I didn’t bother with a breakfast. I could cycle a few miles on last night’s meal. I rode over the Durance for the final time. There is a large cable and upright bridge over the wide river at this point. From there the traffic divides. Most of it was heading for Vinon to the south, possibly to the nuclear energy site there, so the road up the gradual incline of Ravin de Vallongue to the lavender fields at the top was quiet. Once up there it was a riot of colour. The lavender fields stretch for miles in all directions. I stopped to take a photo then descended into Valensole at 09.15. I stopped and parked alongside a seat on a grassy section between two roads, creamed up and had my breakfast, fruit and yoghurts and some Cadburys chocolate that was melting fast. The road climbs up out of the small town, at first on a loop to the right so that the road looks down on the town then a climb off to the right and into the woods. After the turning for Allemagne the road descends, levels out then descends again over the Ravin de Pinetto climbs again then down into Riez at 10.00. I stayed for ½ an hour and had a look at the Roman columns (photo) in the field to the right coming into the town. Speedo reading was 3028. I met a group of cyclists from Leeds coming out of the Casino supermarket on the main street. I asked them if they were going to the Verdon Gorge. “No, we’ve done that this morning on the way up from Nice!” one said. “You’ve come from Nice this morning?” I couldn’t believe it! “Where are you going now?” I really didn’t believe his reply; “We’re off to the Ventoux now!” That would make their distance over 200 miles in a day. Were they in training for le Tour? I felt small with my small distances. I left Riez and moved away uphill past Chateau de Campagne with its patterned roof to Roumoules where I stopped to cream up again. From there it was none stop on the gradual ascent then sudden descent and virages to St Jean just under Moustiers Ste Marie. I took my time on the short climb up to the small town that for me must be in one of the most picturesque village settings in the Alps. It nestles among a ridge of reddish rock. I remember last year, arriving here at sunset, the rock was even redder in the fading sun. It was 11.30 and I stayed around for about an hour, filling up my bottles from the cool fountain and taking a look around the shops. I freewheeled down to St Clair and parted company with the route taken last year to Lac de Ste Croix and the Cirque de Vaumale that took me along the south part of the Grand Canyon de Verdon along Corniche Sublime. This time I wanted to complete the circuit of the gorge by traversing the northern section from Moustiers to Castellane. I was in for a big surprise though – and there were no woods or teddy bears involved! The first part on the rise up to Col de l’Olivier was easy going. There was a steeper section up to Col d’Ayens and I needed the wayside stop at a small café on the right where there were a cycling couple also on their way up. There are glorious views of the canyon all along here. At Belvedere de Mayreste there is a short footpath from the road to a rocky pinnacle where there is a view straight down to the river, a long way down below. Col d’Ayens leaves the gorge and on reaching Palud it is some distance from it so after a couple of ice cokes at the bar and taking in all the English bikes parked around and watching an English motorist taking a left turn on the left of the road and meeting bumper to bumper, I now wanted to get back to the gorge. I figured that if I took the road south from Palud down the Route de Cretes it would be a pleasant diversion and back to Palud again later. Little did I realise at the time that this would take me the rest of the afternoon. It was 8 km down to the gorge edge again and 15km back to Palud. I knew that the 15km was uphill but it wasn’t apparent on the Michelin map # 81 just how severe that climb is. It was a hot day as it was, probably about 38 degrees. Better views can be had of the gorge around Col de l’Olivier than this point but there are many glorious views on the long sweaty climb up past the Belvedere des Glacieres, la Dent d’Aire and l’Escales but it really was a struggle. The climb is relentless. Just when you think you have reached the top there is another rise! About ½ way along the climb there are 2 tunnels over the road. The view along this part of the gorge, called the Martel, is particularly stunning. At Belvedere de Trescaire on the descent from the road summit at Belvedere de la Dent d’Aire there is a walkway where the gorge can be seen again from the edge. There were climbers on the rocks here, and a very long drop under them. I’ll stick to mountain biking. I feel safe on terra firma. The more firmer the less terror. One thing about this road – from the restaurant at la Maline to the top of the road it is a one-way system. I soon found out why there wasn’t much traffic going my way! After reaching that point there was no way I was turning back but the road was wide enough for the small amount of traffic coming over and one lone mad English cyclist. A long sweep down through woods to near Palud then a sharp right onto the Castellane road where I biked along with a French cyclist for a few kilometres down to the Raou river. He was a bit slow though so after Point Sublime I carried on. I took a stop at Point Sublime at 16.45, speedo reading 3068, for an ice coke then enjoyed a glorious descent along Clue de Carejuan. The road from Comps joins at the Pont de Soleils (Sunshine Bridge?) then the road continues under the white cliffs of Clue de Chasteuil with the winding of the Verdon. There are loads of campsites with swimming pools that were very tempting in the heat. If I could have found one that I could enter unchallenged I would have done so. I came into Castellane at 17.50. The speedo reading was 3079. I had enjoyed the gorges all the way into the town. I bought some fruit and a couple of beers in the town for the hotel crash out tonight. My idea was to get as many miles done today so that I could go further west, hopefully as far as the Italian border by tomorrow evening then return south to Nice over the remaining passes not visited in Provence. I took the road out to Barrage de Castillon over the fairly easy climb of Col de la Blache (18.10) then rode along the reservoir with EDF (Electricity Department of France) signs around warning people not to pollute. I took the road for Annot and passed through some final cliff scenery at Clue de Vergons (18.45) then a gradual ascent of the Col de Toutes Aures, reaching there at 19.30. It was probably easier now that the sun was going down but I still wouldn’t have liked to have tackled the pass from Annot coming the other way as the way up is longer and having to negotiate a steep bit through Clue de Rouaine, especially at this time of the day. I enjoyed the final descent through the Clue and turned off at the bottom of the pass for Annot. It didn’t take long to find a hotel, the Hotel du Parc that set me back only 27.00€ for the room, £19.28. I wanted a bath and searched the hotel but there were no le bain signs, only other rooms. After a shower and change I went for a meal at a pizzeria but they had stopped serving meals. I was directed to a Café du Commerce across the open space by the river and had raviolis tortell, 7.50€, ½ pichet rouge vin 4.00€, and a cornetto 2.00€, total 13.50€. I avoided a very loud English family that were arguing at the table and was glad when they went. I sat here for a while then back to the room to sort my bags out and arrange clothing for morning and was asleep at 23.00.
Friday 27th June Annot to Tende 3099 to 3163, 64 miles 08.10 to 19.40
I didn’t bother with breakfast and paid my bill. I picked up some sachets of Galimard perfume and little white boxes with heart shaped soaps. I’m sure Ruth will like these. There were some brochures advertising 10% off Galimard perfume if you visit the shop in Grasse or Eze.
There were some French cyclists saying goodbye to their wives at the breakfast table and wondered what their wives were doing while they were out enjoying themselves. I just made do with a coffee, which I wasn’t charged for. The cyclists were heading north and left the hotel at 08.00. I left about 10 minutes later heading west for Entravuex. It was an easy road following the Nice – Digne narrow gauge line, “le Train des Pignes”, Chemins de Fer de Provence. A train went through when I reached the bridge at Pont de Gueydan at the southern end of the Gorges de Daluis road. I had a short stop here then on to Entravuex at 08.45. I stayed around the town until 10.00, speedo reading 3168. It is a fascinating old town with a complete wall, the only entrance over a drawbridge and under a turret. I wheeled the bike into the narrow street and found a small open area to lock it up and go for a wander. I bought some fruit and yoghurt for breakfast and sat outside the wall of the town taking in the view. Later along the tree- lined road to Puget Theniers I bought another phone card (7.50€) from the café / tabac shop and rang Ruth from a phone box near the main road. I was surprised to hear she was in, I was just going to leave a message to say I would call this evening. From Puget I began the very hot ride up to Col de St Raphael. There are virages for the first 6 kilometres, mainly through pine woods so there were plenty of views past the trees to the valley below and to the mountains opposite. The last 2 kilometres were easy going. On reaching the top there is a small statue of St Raphael on the right hand (south) side of the start of the minor road that leads to Mt Vial. The road along to Rourebel is fairly easy, just a slight gradient up. After that there is a sudden rise and bends up to Ascros. I could see the village on the hill from Rourebel but thought it was away from this road as it was on a hill and to the south. I soon found out that I had a hefty climb in the heat. Once there I needed a drink so had 2 ice cokes and rested a while being entertained by a dog diving in and out of the village fountain in his effort to cool down. There is a great view looking back to Ascros and the hills to the south so took photos. After Ascros the road goes up to the chapel at the side of the road to Mt Brune then down to Toudon. From here there is a road off to the left, about a kilometre from the village that simply says ‘Mont Vial’ The road up isn’t a good surface but it’s perfectly rideable. At first there are pine trees but after about 2 km the way up is barren. There are many twists and turns in-between the white rocks on both sides. The white TV tower is hidden most of the way up but comes into view on the last kilometre beckoning its conqueror forward to the rewarding view of la Mescla across the smaller ridge, below and its twin sentinel, Madone d’Utelle, guarding the Alps from the coast. A quick reverse at 13.00 as I wanted to do a distance today. I had to pump the brakes going down. The sky suddenly turned dark on the descent and I heard thunder over to the west. This situation was very much like my first day on the tour descending Mont du Chat. I managed to dodge the rain this time and descended over Collet des Sausses to Gilette at 14.00, speedo reading 3139. I knew now that I had dodged the rain so dropped down casually to the busy main road that follows hugs the Var all the way to Nice. I wasn’t keen on staying on this road because I didn’t feel safe. Most drivers are more considerate than they would be to cyclists in England on a road like this and I was given plenty of clearance but the noise and the fumes are unpleasant. I wanted to get off this as soon as possible but I had no choice of route until I reached Pont de la Mandal at 15.00 and this is the first bridge from the main road down the Var to the quieter road for St Laurent du Var. I stopped at MacDonald’s here, on the edge of Nice and ate a “Best of McChick” 5.90€ with max Orange, max frite, 1 biere 30cl 1.70€, total 7.60€. From here I rode the quieter road south to the coast at Laurent du Var. I bought a battery for the camera, as I had not been able to take photos since Ascros when the battery packed up. The streets through the town were very busy and I was glad to reach the main road at the coast. This meant taking an underpass, as that coast road is crazy with traffic. I rode along the cycle path along the seafront, dodging the people. I took the turning for la Gare and had about ¾ hour to wait for a train at 16.12 to Tende, arriving at 18.38. A shop across the road was good for fruit and beer for a refreshing cool down on Nice station before boarding the train. I bought one of those strong Dutch beers at 8.5% but I wasn’t riding any further today! I enjoyed my train ride on an Italian local train going to Cuneo under the Tende. I sat opposite an Italian lady and we tried our best to converse. It was funny really as I knew more Italian than she knew English – and that isn’t much but it was interesting! The train journey was very good for scenery and it was good to enjoy the view relaxing for a change. I found a hotel near the station when I got off, the Tende Hotel Miramonti at 30.00€, £21.41 for a room. I had to pay for it this evening as I intended moving on early in the morning. I had a pasta meal at the hotel then went to bed at 23.00
Saturday 28th June Tende to Col de Turini 3164 to 3225, 61 miles 08.00 to 18.30
There was nobody about at 07.30 so I let myself out and left the key with the cleaner who was just arriving when I left. It was a wonderful ride up the pass for the remaining 9 kilometres to the Tende tunnel entrance. The last 3 km are a snake of hairpins on a wide smooth road but can’t compare to the Col de Tende itself and the 4.7 km meander up through woods on a tarmac surface to begin with. That only lasts for 2 km then it’s a compacted stony track to the col. It’s perfectly rideable on a road bike but I had to take care at the turns. This meant keeping the right foot in the SPD clip and the left foot loose ready to put down on the ground if I began to wobble. It took me 2½ hours to ride the pass. The grey fort that can be seen on the ridge for about 10km distant is situated on the highest point, just to the east of the col. Once at the ridge the Italian valley on the other side opens up and the view extends for miles. On a peak opposite is what seems to be a cable car, could be wrong. It’s a large black and white cylindrical object, the cylinder lying flat but suspended above the top of the mountain. The track becomes a road again on the Italian side but I wasn’t tempted, as it would have meant a long detour through Piedmont to get back to France and Nice for tomorrow. Perhaps the Italian border area can be visited some future year. I stayed at the col for ½ an hour from 10.30 to 11.00, speedo reading was 3175. Compared to the 2½-hour ascent it took me 45 minutes to descend to the foot of the col near the tunnel entrance at 11.45, speedo reading 3179.7. I picked up my bags from behind a tree where I left them hidden on the way up. I carried a large green inner bag with me to protect clothes from the rain but it came in very handy as a camouflage. So all told Tende to the col and back to Tende took 4 hours, from 08.00 to 12.00. From the col I descended rapidly back through Tende then St Dalmas and the Roya Gorge. The town of Saorge perched high up over the gorge is impressive. I took a photo of this as I passed through the road works where new tunnels are being built. There is a road up to Saorge from both directions from the Roya but I wouldn’t like to attempt it. On through the Gorges de Saorge and the white cliffs on either side gradually diminish on the way south to Breil sur Roya, arriving there at 13.20. A brief look at the small town then I creamed up and ate some fruit for the climb up to the Col de Brouis. This was difficult in the heat and I took the ascent steadily. The climate is so much hotter near to the coast. There are some steep sections along the way and I admit it seemed much longer than the 9 kilometres to the col from the Roya valley. A family had parked about 2 km under the col at a lay by and were taking a video of me coming up the road. I gave them a grin and a wave and they shouted ‘allez’. Shortly afterwards, a couple more virages through the woods and I could see the top to the left. I reached it at 14.15, speedo reading 3203. I was a bit disappointed with the col as the café was closed and because it’s so densely tree lined there wasn’t anything to take a photo of except the height marker. It was a great descent down the other side though in open country and good views down to Sospel. The col on this side is marked by an old disused windmill. A slight and hardly noticeable hump on the way down called Col de Perus then more hairpins down to Sospel, arriving there at 14.50. I stayed an hour and rested for a while at a bar and had a cheese sandwich and coke at café. I couldn’t buy a meal, as it was too late. While in the café the bike was against the wall and it slid down, scratching the frame top tube. I needed the rest and food for the final climb of the day. The road was very quiet and peaceful most of the way up. This really helped and made the climb a pleasure. Col de Turini is not a pass to be taken lightly after all it is the highest pass in Provence after the Ventoux. I stopped at Gorges de Piaon to cream up and eat an orange then stopped again just after Notre Dame de Menour to take a photo of the span over the rocks up there to the white chapel. At Moulinet I slipped a gear, my feet being clipped into the pedals and fell off! I wasn’t hurt. After Moulinet just short of the halfway point the road is wild, there are no other villages or even buildings. The road surface is a reddish colour and among the tree lined way it is colourful and pleasing to the eye. The col seemed forever in appearing but eventually there it was, around a last bend, hidden from view by the trees but a very welcome sight. I had planned to head directly south from here after a circuit around the Aution, my only reason for climbing the Turini a second time. However time was against me, it was now 18.30 and time to call it a day. I tried one of the three hotels but the first one was full. I was praying that one of the others had a room or I would have to do the Aution circuit today and find a room lower down the Turini, maybe at Peire-Cava. The middle hotel had a room. I was offered bed, breakfast and set evening meal for 54.00€. This suited me. After a shower and a change I went to the phone kiosk outside and rang Ruth and Mark then went back inside for the meal. It was a mushroom omelette starter, steak, vegetables and chips main meal and ice cream and fruit after. I also had a large beer. Later I had a walk outside in the dark with the torch and checked out the large-scale map on a board that detailed the Aution and 3 Communes circuit. It seemed easy enough. This was something to look forward to tomorrow but for now time to sleep at 23.00. It didn’t take long!
Sunday 29th June Col de Turini to Nice 3226 to 3277, 51 miles 07.40 to 13.00
I paid my bill last night so that I could get away quickly but still had time for breakfast in the hotel for a change. I couldn’t each much bread but there was plenty of cheese, yoghurt and fruit and I stuffed some bananas and oranges into my helmet that was going on the bike rack. The only other things I needed were my camera, a map, itinerary and pen and left the bags under a table in the restaurant. It seems to be the done thing because every time I have asked to leave them in places I have never been refused. I also think that hotel owners value the trust placed in them. I was up at 07.00 and on the road at 07.40 for an immediate climb up to the l’Aution where the road emerges from the woods in the village then skirts under the south of the mountain with it’s hill fort, great views back over the Turini. Here the road divides. The left fork leads directly to Point des Trois Communes (Three Communes Point) but the way forward has no entry signs and the direction indicates the right fork for a one way system to Point des Trois Communes, but the road goes down. After a ¾ hour climb to this point from Turini I really didn’t want to go down again so I did as in the Verdon Gorge and defied the one-way system. I arrived at Three Communes Point at 08.20 and stayed around until 09.00, speedo reading 3230. There was a lot to see here, and as I probably will not visit this area again, I wanted to see it. I walked the bike up the steep track from the end of the road to the grey tower on the highest point. This is Three Communes Point. It’s a good vantage point and there is a grand view all around. I had now achieved my last conquest except for a few lower passes on the way to Nice. I took another photo of the other buildings on the ridge above the road, some grey columns among the ruins. About turn and back down the way I came, a couple more photo stops on the way down then braked at the hotel on Col de Turini at 09.15 and stayed ½ an hour repacking the bags, speedo reading 3235. Setting off through the thick woods of unusual trees for an area near the coast; maple, chestnut and beech trees – I could have been in England. I now had the prospect an 11km descent down another side of the Turini before heading east over the Col de l’Orme and Col l’Able. At Peira-Cava there is a viewing point among the tables outside a restaurant, the usual round disc with grooves in it to show what is on offer across the miles to the west. There’s an indication that it’s there from the road so I walked past the tables to the fence and a there is a fantastic view across to Mt Vial, Madone d’Utelle and other mountains but those two were easily recognisable with Mt Vial’s grey building and TV mast and the red roof of Utelle’s chapel on the top of the mountain. There was a group of cyclists having breakfast outside here. It was nearly 10.00 and any cyclist who’s serious should be well on the road by now! At Baisse de la Cabanette to the south there is a choice of roads, either carry on for l‘Escarene and Nice direct or go the left and take in three more cols and arrive at l’Escarene from the east. I decided to do just that as I’ve almost exhausted the col visiting between the Var and the Italian border so probably will not come to this area again. There were cyclists coming up the road I was about to go down. One stopped in front of me to wait for his group so I asked him if he was racing. They had come up from Nice this morning and were going to the Turini and back down through Sospel. As I descended the hairpins on the way to Col de Braus, leaving the trees and now in open country, there were many more cyclists struggling up, sweating cobs and breathing heavy. I was warm going down the mountain. It must have been agony for these racing. There are many close packed hairpins for a good distance negotiating the white rocks and finding steep ways down the mountain. I could see the Col d’Orme road where it joined this roadway below, and also the dense area where the slight incline of the first col is situated and continues under the tree covering to Col de l’Able. I was soon down there but stopped above for a short while to take in the scene. Down to the road junction then up the rise to Col de l’Orme, just a hump really (11.00) The second col wasn’t difficult. There is no col marker at the top of Col de l’Able (11.30) where the woods open out a little but mainly tree covered until about 2 kilometres above the Col de Braus road. There is a rapid drop to this, and it joins just 500 metres from the top of the pass. On a previous occasion I had rode from Sospel to the top of the Col de Braus and returned again so had not seen it from this side. There is a series of sharp hairpins on this side of the pass on the way down to l’Escarene. The gorge at St Laurent just below the curves was worth a stop. People were bathing at a pool in the gorge, a long way down. I took a photo of the gorge then continued down to l’Escarene and stopped on the long bridge on the river and bought fruit, chocolate and yoghurt from the Casino supermarket by the bridge just before noon. I sat on the bridge wall for a while then passed through the small town facing the river on the other side and up the small rise no longer than Alderley Edge (one of my local Cheshire hills) and reached Col de Nice (12.15), my final pass of the tour. There were other cyclists at the top, the racing variety. They soon dropped me on the descent down the other side but I was going fast enough. I was descending gradually for 16 kilometres until I reached La Trinite where I had to be careful, as the roads were very busy here. I passed under the autoroute and was now in Nice. It’s not a good approach into Nice along this road but off the approach into the city to the right were a group of small roads called Rue de la Galibier, Utelle, Turini, Tende and so on. They were nothing like the real thing. My best approach into Nice was from Col d’Eze a few years ago because it’s a quiet road and there’s a long descent from Mt Gros down to Nice Port. The next year (2001) was also a good finish into Nice from the mountains coming down from Tourrette-Levens to St Andre on the north edge of Nice. Today I rode in and came to the old town and parked the bike up to look for presents to take home for Ruth and Mark. I hope they like escargots (snails) and truffles! But I also bought sweet stuff, key rings and a Provence house miniature and other bits and pieces. I thought I would give it a miss with the crickets in the cardboard box this time. I arrived in Nice old town at 13.00, 40 miles from Aution at speedo reading 3270. After the shops I bought a couple of beers from a shop there and lay on the beach opposite the Grande Etats Unis (USA) gateway to the market and old town. I sunbathed for a while and plastered myself with factor 18, finished a beer off then had a swim in my cycle shorts – didn’t bring trunks. For the first time since the Parpaillon tunnel the beach sandals came out of hibernation and I wore them the rest of the day as I alternated short rides along the Boulevard des Anglais with sunbathing and swimming for the rest of the afternoon. I went back to the old town again to finish buying then back to the beach and swim again. I had plenty of time to relax and soak up the sun, as I didn’t have to be at the airport until 18.30. At Nice Arche Promenade at 15.00 I bought a a quick meal, didn’t need a big meal just something to keep me going for the rest of the evening, nor did I want to waste sunbathing time waiting around for a meal in a restaurant. I reluctantly made my way along the seafront cycleway to the airport and stopped outside Terminal One to dismantle the bike. I had it neatly packed and walked it into the departure area and checked the screen for the check in location. There was no indication on the board of any Easyjet flight let alone one to Liverpool at 21.40. I asked at the information desk and was told Easyjet flights now depart from the new Terminal 2. I could board the airport link bus for that. I struggled with the bike into the bus aware of the stares from the passengers but I wasn’t going to walk with a decapitated bike with cover on it and besides it would have been a long walk. On reaching Terminal 2 I checked in, passed across my panniers held with lockable straps then wheeled old trusty to the oversize baggage check in, let the tyres down and said goodbye to my travelling companion. I hope she makes it to Liverpool without damage. The journey back was almost uneventful except I thought that the wing was on fire! I called a stewardess and pointed to the red ‘burning’ on the wing. “ I don’t want to alarm you but what is the red on the wing?” She said matter of factly, “That is the light at the end of the wing” “No, not that, the red flashing” “That is the strobe lighting but thank you anyway” I felt put down but can’t be too careful! At Liverpool my panniers arrived down the chute onto the carousel first – followed by my heavy metal girlfriend. She was lying on the carousel waiting for a pick up! I didn’t re-assemble the bike as I was going home by taxi. It was now just before midnight so there was no hope of a train home. I had pre-arranged a lift with a taxi company found from the Internet, phone number 0151-495-2552 for £30.00, and given a quote reference. He took me to the door and I was greeted by Ruth who waited up for me at 01.00 – and it’s a workday tomorrow!