Saturday 25th June 1994 Basel to Frick
Holiday at last! I planned to ride over six passes today but it was so hot that I could only manage five.
The train arrived in Basel at 02.00. By the time I sorted my bike out it was 02.30. I wedged my bike in-between a seat and a pillar in the main ticket hall and promptly went to sleep with the aid of industrial earplugs; but first the police challenged me about my ticket. They were satisfied that I’d just got off the Strasbourg train, so they let me sleep on the condition that I move on at 05.00. They woke me at 05.10 so I nodded off again outside the station on a seat by the front wall until 06.30 when I sidled along to wonderful Macdonald’s opposite the station. They opened at 06.00. I went not only for the coffee but to have a wash and shave and get changed for a promising warm day out on the road. There were sure signs of a good day ahead even at this hour so put on a brand new pair of shorts. They’re OK but will get a bit of getting use to with no elasticised support around the legs.
I started off at 07.10 along the road to the right of the station (to the east), then over the railway lines along Reinachstrasse, through Arlesheim, Dornach and then up the Gempen Pass. I would call it a miniature as it’s not on the real pass scale but it was a good warm up for what was to come. It was high enough for starters! From Nuglar, through Seltisberg and Hollstein (10.30) and a ½ hour climb up the second pass the Oberer Hauenstein. I got a girl to take a photo of me at the pass altitude board. Down the other side and left at Langenbruck. I got whistled at by an old man so I blew him a kiss. The road goes up a bit from here then mainly down through a gorge to Hagendorf. I continued along a main road cycle path into Olten. I visited Macdonald’s again in the small town for a coffee and a milk shake. Reasonable price and thirst quenched, I continued up to my third pass, the Unterer Hauenstein. The weather was really hot now so off with the shirt and I caught up with another lone cyclist but he didn’t want to talk. I stayed just behind him so his efforts could help me keep pace helping me get up there quicker. I overtook him just before the top – oh I am spiteful! At the top I took a photo then turned off to the right after a short, steep descent to Wisen where I stopped for a Feldschlossen at a wayside pub. It’s really true that alcohol reduces the sugar in your blood. I felt it this time, further on between Zeglingen and Anwil. I started climbing the fourth pass, the Selihohe and had to have a rest. I ate a Snickers bar and some water and remaining yoghurt from home but I still wasn’t right. I had to ask at a nearby house for some sugar and water in my bottles. I was desperate! They were very kind and could have refused. This helped me a lot and gave me the boost and renewed vitality to reach the top. It was still very hot, now the middle of the afternoon. I took a photo at the top but there was no actual pass name altitude marker so made do with a yellow wanderweg sign that indicated the name of the pass and the altitude. From here down the other side of the pass to Erlinstired (so’s Kevin!) and across a minor road to Kuttgen. I got a bit lost here. The actual road is not marked on the Michelin map. It starts from just above the village name and comes out on the Kuttgen to Wittnau road. I asked the way of a local. The fifth and last pass for today was an easy climb now that the sun had gone down. It seemed that there was a storm brewing. It got dark very quickly at 18.30 but the sun doesn’t go down until about 21.30. At the road summit I asked for a room but this was a restaurant only. The lady there was kind enough to ring round for me. She asked me where I was heading and found a room for me in Frick, on the north side of the pass down in the valley. This was the Hotel Rebstock. It was an easy ½ hour descent and I just beat the rain. It started raining just as I arrived in the village. It only took a few minutes to find the hotel. As soon as I put the bike away for the night and padlocked the shed the heavens opened but I was dry inside. It was a true blitzen donnerung! It lasted from 20.00 until 22.00. I had a long soak in a hot bath as soon as I got to the room, later I went downstairs for an orange juice and a hot chocolate, wrote the diary and went back to the room. I went to sleep at 23.00.
Sunday 26th June 1994 Frick to Thun
I was up at 07.30 for 08.00 breakfast, really filling and kept me going for the next few hours. On the road at 09.10. The weather was cloudy but at least it was dry after last night’s thunderstorm. I took the road up to the Bozberg Pass, which I was going to do yesterday but the impending storm put paid to that. After the Bozberg I have cycled all the passes around Basel. The next nearest were in the areas of St Gallen and Appenzell which I intend to visit some future year but there are the higher passes on the Alpine foothills just north of the really big passes such as the Gotthard (that was my very first Alpine pass about 15 years ago). One of these is the Selibuhl south of Thun that I had planned as my last pass a year ago but ran out of time and energy. This would mean a train trip to reach that area later today, but first the Bozberg awaits. It took me an hour up a gentle hill on a busy main road among the woods. At the top I met a Swiss cyclist who asked me where I was heading. I asked him to take a photo even though there is no summit marker here. Down the other side and soon into Brug, a busy town that I bypassed and cycled through Tegli to Baden following the railway line. I arrived at the railway station at 10.40. Had a light beer to celebrate my latest conquests and booked the bike onto the 11.45 train to Brig, but getting off at Berne. Again the bike was wrapped up in the SBB regulation plastic bike bag, tied around the bottom bracket with holes for the handlebars and saddle. It cost 12SF. I had Gruyere cheese (bought in Holstein yesterday) and oatcakes from home and ate them on the train. I arrived in Berne at 13.15. I wasted no time in getting out of the capital; I can always spend time here when Ruth and I come here again next. Just south of the main city centre I came across a steam railway and sheds and took some photos. At Belp I turned off for Toffen and Rumligen. I remember this road from earlier years when Harry Foy and I cycled from Thun to Berne. There was plenty of running water along the way to fill up the bottles. I needed this, as again it was a very hot day. I climbed up to Riggisberg then down the other side to Rohrbach and thought I missed a turning – but no there it was, the Ruschegg. I had a cup of tea at a hotel here, 2.70SF. I was on a quiet road that leads to Gambach, there were no cars allowed because of a recent rockfall. I filled up the bottles at Riffenmatt then the hard slog began from there to the summit of the Col de Selibuhl. It is very steep from Riffenmattand then again after the road junction for Schwefelbergbad. I was disappointed there was no named pass sign with the altitude mark at the top. I had to make do with a wanderweg sign that indicated the pass name and altitude. Now the fun really commenced – I tried to find a room somewhere on the descent of the pass. I tried first of all at the top but nothing to be had. I tried again at Riggisberg (completing the circuit around the pass), Muhlethurnen and Seftigen, all without success. I rode down to Thun, thoroughly exhausted and it was getting dark at 21.00. It had been a long day. I eventually found a room at Hotel Krone in the main square. I couldn’t argue with the price, as there was nowhere else to go. I enjoyed a really good meal; spring rolls, spare rib, chicken wings and chips with Ovalmaltine and mineral water. The TV was an attraction in the room that night but I was asleep at midnight.
Monday 27th June 1994 Thun to Giswil
Had a bit of a lie in, up at 08.30. The breakfast was a smashing buffet. I had permission to take a doggy bag out with me so I took an ‘Inter City’ plastic bag in and filled it up with 2 rolls, 4 cheeses and made a roll of salami, cheese etc. Took two yoghurts as well for lunch. Lunch? I’ve got it made! Talking of maids I’m sure she knew I couldn’t possibly eat all that so quickly. I was out at 10.00. I’ll leave the town of Thun for another time. It’s always possible to take a train here if we decide to come sometime. Besides, I’m here for the passes. I was feeling energetic after stuffing doggy bag and myself at breakfast. I had energy to burn so started off up the Schallenburg Pass; my eighth pass on this tour. I fell off the bike after negotiating the tricky incline at Steffisberg, it’s steep and the road is cobbled, definitely not easy to ride up here. I landed safely. At the time I was trying to change the smallest chain ring and the chain over-ran into the frame lug. This is something I must adjust and did it a few minutes later at a convenient stopping point. From Schwarzenegg it was easy and mainly downhill to Sudern. There is a wonderful valley view herein Emmental. The last three miles are really steep and made up for the lack of climbing upto now. The only exception was the steep section from Thun to Schwarzenegg. I reached the road summit at noon and met up with a Swiss cyclist at the top. When I mentioned to him that I had watched Schweiz play Colombian the World Cup on TV last night he became ever so talkative! I got him to take my photo against the road pass height board. From here it was steeply down to just below Schangnau then up to Wald for 1.½ miles. I stopped for a drink of lemonade at Schangnau at a pub / café. 3.40SF. After Wald it was easy going as far as Wiggen. Turned right here on a busy main road to Entelbuch. I made a mistake here and started off up a pass but I had counted this one off with Peter van Dinter. This was the Glaubenbule. I retraced back to Schuffheim for the Glaubenbuelen Pass. It is steep at first then a bit of a gentler gradient to just above Fluhli. It is steep to Sorenberg then much steeper along a narrow, quiet road to the summit. A girl passed me on a mountain bike. I really can’t have this so I caught her up and stayed on her tail, which helped me to reach the road top quickly. There is no altitude marker or pass name board at the top so took a photo of a Swiss Army marker sign with the essential markings. I kitted up for a cool descent to Giswil. I found a room right away at the foot of the pass on the junction with the main road from Interlaken to Lucerne. This was at the Hotel Krone at 19.30. I paid 80SF for an evening meal, bed and breakfast. After cream soup the meal was spaghetti in a white cheese sauce but I remember not wanting to eat it as I thought the cheese had gone off. It wasn’t expensive but I ordered another meal as a replacement, no extra cost. It pays to complain if you’re not happy. I had an earlier night and slept at 23.15.
Tuesday 28th June 1994 Giswil to Lucerne
I enjoyed a hearty breakfast outside in the sunshine. It was buffet style so I could prepare my lunch too! I stuck to cereal, orange juice, coffee and yoghurt (took a few tubs in a doggy bag).
I left Giswil at 09.30 on yet another sunny, warm day. Out along the Sarnersee as far as Sachseln where I headed away from the lake and began a steady ascent, signposted Flueli. I asked the way at Sachseln tourist information office. There are so many roads straight up the hill to Kerns. I took a wrong turning, climbed up round the back of Kerns in a very pleasant wooded setting with a stream running along the narrow lane, but then it came back down again to Kerns! What a wasted effort, but I enjoyed the tranquil lane, which I wouldn’t have seen! Up eventually and away from Kerns on a long straight lane that led away from the valley. I was attempting to reach the Aecherli Pass. I found myself on a path where this road petered out into the fields. I asked the way at the top and was told I needed a mountain bike for the final 3 km across the fields to reach the summit of the col. I gave in and came back down again. I found the road he had pointed out but I’d lost heart. It was too hot to attempt this one, and it was very steep. I’ll leave until next year perhaps. From Kerns to Stans, after stocking up from a supermarket in Kerns Co-op. From Stans to Lucerne and my backside began to ache from the effect of the uncomfortable saddle. I think perhaps I’m being too intensive with this madness of pass conquests especially in this heat. Probably the heat was also a contributory factor. I decided I needed a rest for the remainder of the day and would find somewhere to swim in Lake Lucerne then book in at the youth hostel. It was a laborious ride along Lake Lucerne (Vierwalderstattersee – the lake of the four forest cantons) to Horw. There’s a swimming pool here but I preferred to go into Lucerne. I rode along to the Verkerhaus (transport museum) through the city on the Kussnacht road, just east of the city centre. I had a couple of hours or more to swim at the Lido here. It cost 4.50SF to get in. Strandbad Lido Luzern, Eintritt Erwachsene mit Wechselgarderobe, Auf Verlangen vorweisen. This was great fun and very relaxing. There is a wooden fixed raft to swim out too. The area in the lido has plenty of soft grass to lie on and wasn’t too crowded. There were some beautiful people here! After a good swim and a shower I found my way up to the Lowenstrasse and up the hill, turned right at the modern church and along the road to the hostel. I booked in and had a wash and change then biked down to the city later. I had a look at the new bridge because recently an arsonist had burnt down the old one. I went over the other bridges and through the town. I bought a cervalet at the railway station then went back to the hostel for a meal that I had ordered earlier. I had clear soup followed by turkey and pasta then mixed fruit all for 10.50SF. I went to sleep at 22.00.
Wednesday 29th June 1994 Lucerne to Rapperswill (Jona)
Up at 07.30 feeling much refreshed and having put wonder working lion ointment on my nether regions. I was OK today. I set off along the lake to Kussnacht, uphill to Meggen then down. The road does not go along the lake at this point but cuts out a promontory and comes back to it again. I stocked up at a Co-op then took a short climb then down to the neighbouring lake, the Zugersee and steadily down to the lakeside town of Arth in the corner of the lake. It’s a very picturesque place in its position on the lake. From Arth the climb really started. The view at Steinburg overlooks Lauerzersee and the two railways, the SBB to Italy over the Gotthard and the SOB Arth to Rapperswill railway above it. I put my other briefer shorts under the normal blue ones for comfort and padding. Feeling much more comfortable I made my way up the Sattel (pass number 10). This way was almost effortless except for the heat I was cycling in. It really didn’t help having the ‘Stations of the Cross’ signs in Ecco Homo at the later stage of the pass, very off putting. The last part of the climb is on a busy main road ending at a bridge – an inglorious road summit. There was really no photo to take. From here down to Biberbrugg. I was tempted to go on to Zurich and call an end to this week’s venture but no – I was attracted by the Etzel Pass that was nearby. Just before Einsiedeln I turned off along the north west side of Sihlsee. This lake is beautiful. I could have had a swim in the bathing area but decided to press on. The Etzel Pass, pass number 11, is very steep but not very far in length. I had to walk part of it after going over a bridge over a stream. It is approx a 1 in 20. Shortly after this I reached the top. I took a few photos. At this point it was decision time; do I go to Lake Zurich or continue on for the Satelegg Pass? Being a masochist I opted for the second choice. Down from here to Willersill. There are toilets at a camping place here. On to the slow ascent through the woods, glad of the shade and up to the Sattelegg Pass, pass number 12. I took some photos. The hotel at the top was closed. It has lots of wind machines on sticks around the building and they were really clattering merrily up here. There were plenty of cyclists going up and over the pass. There followed a steep downhill sweep to the east, most of the way to Sieben. The last part of the descent is through a gorge. Steady down again to Lachen and over the causeway at the eastern end of Zurichersee (Lake Zurich) into Rapperswill. I had a bratwurst at the Migros supermarket then out of the town to the neighbouring village of Jona on the lakeside. I soon found the hostel in the open grassy area among the farm buildings. I didn’t want a meal. I was just too hot to stomach it. I watched TV and chatted for an hour or so with other hostellers and went to bed at 23.30.
Thursday 30th June 1994 Rapperswill to Appenzel , return to Rapperswill
Up for breakfast at 08.00. Had puffed wheat and milk, chocolate drink, coffee and yoghurt. Out at 09.00 for the ‘grand tour’. This is what I came for and decided to make a full day of it. I called this my Appenzeller tour that would take in all the passes in the north east of the country. I planned to take in six passes but in the end I only did four. There’s always another time. I left most of my baggage at the room in the hostel. I felt safe doing that because this morning I was offered my own room there (23.00SF) so I could lock the door on my stuff. I cycled along the lakeside path to Uznach then on the road, rising up to Gommiswald where I stocked up for the day for 20SF, no more spent all day. I was now self sufficient for the day. From here up to Ricken, pass number 13. It wasn’t too difficult. I took a couple of photos then made my way down to Watwil and down again to Ebnat Kappel where I stopped for a while at 12.30. I saw a couple there with their baby that I recognised as they were also staying at Rapperswill Jona hostel. They wouldn’t recognise me so didn’t want to attract their attention. It is a steady rise from here to Neu St Johann then left for the immediate steep ascent of the highest pass in northeast Switzerland, the Schwagalp, pass number 14. Much of it is forested either side of the road. As it turned out I tackled it from the best side because the other side is a longer climb. This is a double pass because a bit further along, down then up again, I passed over the Cherezen Pass but it’s so close to the Schwagalp that I can’t really count it as a separate pass. A shallow Alpine valley separates the passes. Down from here to Urnasch, a photogenic church tower stands in the narrow main street and there are gold covered overhanging shop signs. I followed the railway line from here to Appenzell. Uphill again to Gonten, then down to Appenzell. This is a very picturesque but also a touristy town. I can see why there is no YHA here. The Appenzellers wouldn’t want to encourage that!
I took a few photos then biked onward and upward to Gais to take in the two easterly passes above Allstatten. I could do this and take a train back from St Gallen. I decided against taking in these passes and go up there some future year. The decision was to continue the round trip on a smaller circuit to give myself time to get back to Rapperswill at a decent hour. I headed for Waldstatt, down most of the way to Hundwill then up 2km to Waldstatt. There followed a down all the way to just below the Wasserfluh Pass. This is a steady climb up, short in length but steep to make up for it. I didn’t take any stops. There were plenty of cyclists on this, my 15th pass. I took some photos at the top then descended to Lichtensteig. I had a short stop there then climbed slightly up to Butschwil then a steeper road up to Mosnang. From that point it is level to Muhlruti then a short , sharp climb for 2km to the Hulftegg Pass, pass number 16. There were plenty of cyclists making there way up here but also plenty of motorcyclists roaring up this pass. I could here them way down the pass through the trees, and on the way down too. The noise made the pass far from peaceful so I found this really annoying. Apart from the noise the pass has the potential of a pleasant pass, climbing up through the woods on a narrow but a very good surfaced road. I suppose that also makes it ideal for motorcycling. It was better to climb up this way than come up the west side, which is steeper and longer. So, I had a long sweep down the pass to Steg then south but up again to Fischenthal before the road begins to drop down to Lake Zurich. At Wald a slow moving tractor pulled out in front of me as I was careering down the hill. He stared straight at me and still turned. Did he expect me to stop? I had to brake hard and overtook it at the first opportunity. The attitude of that farmer made me mad! I was fast enough through Wald and Ruti where the land around is then flat on the approach to Zurichersee. A motorway crosses over the road from Zurich heading east. Past this and I was back at the lake. I must have an old Michelin map because the motorway is not indicated. I spotted a sign for Jona, took it and spent the next ½ hour trying to find the hostel. I arrived at 09.45 after a 94 mile round trip. This is one of the biggest rides I’ve done in the Alps. At the hostel I ate some of my food from my pannier bag, then had a sort out of the bags and to sleep at 23.15.
Friday 1st July 1994 Rapperswill to Como, return to Rapperswill
Another fine hot sunny day – phew! Can I stand this? I needed a change from the bike today and wondered about travelling by train down to Lugano. The warden in Rapperswill hostel phoned through for me but told me that he was informed that Lugano Crocifisso hostel was full tonight. Another possibility was to cycle over the Albis Pass to Zurich on the ridge south of Lake Zurich. I really couldn’t be bothered with that, I had my fill of cycling this week. I biked along to Rapperswill station and gave it a send off to Ostend. I took the 10.50 train to Arth Goldau but arrived there 10 minutes late so missed a connection at 11.49 to Como. This was totally unlike the Swiss! For me they messed it up real good as I was travelling a long way. I was in luck though; there was another train at 11.52 going to Chiasso, due to arrive at 14.56. When I arrived it was a bit difficult to find the connection into Como. I eventually found one leaving at 15.38 and it only took 6 minutes from Chiasso to the lake. While I was waiting I had a wander around Chiasso. I was told at the tourist information desk out on the road that I could walk into the Italian part of Chiasso if I wanted to shop. I did this but couldn’t find a supermercardo even after asking round along the street (Mi scusi, supermercardo, per favore?) so I wandered back to the station, back over the border. I bought a ticket to Como, 2.70SF. When I arrived I spent ages queuing to change Swiss money into Italian, I changed 40SF and received 47,000 lire then walked down to the lake (Lake Como). I sat and drank ½ a bottle of Feldschlossen in the heat then walked across to the supermercardo. I bought 14 litres of boxed Italian wine and a packet of sweets for work. Later I struggled back to the station and went for the 17.05 train to Arth Goldau, arriving at 20.11 for the 20.18 from Arth to Rapperswill, arriving at 21.09. I had time for a meal at the station buffet before walking back to the youth hostel in Jona. I had left my pannier bags in the lockers on Rapperswill station this morning. I now left the 14 litres of wine in there too. I really didn’t want to walk the ½ mile to the youth hostel dragging those along. I arrived back at the hostel at 22.15.
Saturday 2nd July 1994 Rapperswill to Basel
Goodbye to Rapperswill. I collected my panniers and wine from the left luggage locker on Rapperwill station then caught the local train to Zurich Hbf. I struggled with those panniers when I got there. I found the left luggage lockers on Zurich station after a bit of a search at the big station. The locker price was 3.00SF this time. It was only 2.00SF in Rapperswill. I went to the Co-op across from the station, forward and to the right from the main entrance. I stocked up with cold drink for my journey home (mineral water and Felschlossen) then went for the 12.07 train to Lucerne, arriving at 12.56. I had a scan round the kiosks on the station to see if there were any last chance suitable gifts for home. Later had a stroll along the lakefront as far as the lido where I swam last Tuesday. It was another glorious day just like that again. I paid my 4.40SF and went in for a second time. It’s complete relaxation in a compact area between the town and the lake. Changed into trunks and straight into the swimming pool, then a sunbathe, back to the pool again then into the lake. It was cold at first but beautifully cool in the sunshine afterwards. Great to lie back in the sun on the water. I’m glad I sent the bike home! I had bread and cheese from lunch that I’d brought from the hostel after breakfast. Another sunbathe and back into the pool then into the lake again. I had a good long swim past the raft diving board tower. Great looking at the mountains from the water level, they seem to fall into the water along the length of the lake. On up the tower and on to the floating platforms, this was great! I went back for another sunbathe and read my book, “Final Curtain” then had to call it a day at 18.30 having been here 4 ½ hours. I strolled back along the front. Mount Pilatus was in front and was shimmering light grey in the sunlight with traces of white where the ice hadn’t melted. I took a couple of photos of it with the mountain being so clear. These were the last photos I took on the holiday.
I took the only train, the 20.04, to make the connection to Zurich, arriving at 20.53 and on to Ostend from there. I had 40 minutes left in Lucerne so went on a shopping spree, presents for home. I bought a cyclists route map of Switzerland 24.80SF, a panorama map 9.80SF and chocolates for Ruth 14.00SF.
I had ten minutes left to go for the train, no problem because I was only carrying a small rucksack. It was a quiet journey to Zurich. Once there I had a look around the station area. I had a last cervalet and roll 4.40SF, collected my heavy bags from the left luggage and lugged them ever so slowly down the length of the platform. The train information board indicated that the second-class seats were in the coaches on along walk down the platform so it was a trudge to find a coach not too crowded. I put the bags on the rack above the seats. There were no quiet coaches and no chance of a nap. Young American tourists playing name games took up the seats around. The train arrived in Basel at 23.13. I struggled with the pannier bags along to the French platform (platform 35) through the Customs area and those huge wooden doors in the waiting area that open out like magic when approaching. The overhead screen showed that the train would be late (retard) by 40 minutes. It finally left Basel at 00.40 instead of the scheduled time of 23.59.
Sunday 3rd July 1994 Basel to Holmes Chapel
I searched around on the train for a quiet compartment and eventually found one away far from the madding crowd of young excitable Americans. An American student in Strasbourg and his mother from Wisconsin joined me in the compartment. He was disillusioned with the American way of life. He says it is too violent – the cost of capitalism. He said no Americans should carry guns except the police and the military. They were trigger-happy and no American city is safe to live in. He was glad to be in Strasbourg though he didn’t like Switzerland. He say’s they are too insular. He may have a point but I wondered how he could not like Switzerland. He loves France though. I gave my reasons for believing the reverse. The train eventually left at 00.40 and they both got off at Strasbourg. The only other people in the compartment were a black gentleman and his son who persisted in putting his feet into my side to keep them warm all night! I woke up at Brugge, which was great! I had 20 minutes from here to Ostend to get a wash and shave, brush teeth and hair and just made it. The train arrived at 08.02, the scheduled time so the train caught up during the night. I collected my bike from Ostend station and struggled with my pannier bags again. It was such a relief to get them back onto the back of the bike. I queued up for the 09.45 ferry for Ramsgate. It left 10 minutes late. On board I bought breakfast and a cup of tea later with sandwiches, paying with Belgian francs. Later I bought duty free goods; a litre of Glayvia whisky liquor £11.49 and two blocks of Milka chocolate at £2.30 each on Visa card. Later I caught up with this diary.