Friday 1st July 1977
Some months before I advertised for cycling company for a trip to the eastern part of Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Vorarlberg, Tyrol and north east Italy, a tour that would take us through the central Alps. There were a few enquirers at the planning stage but only one chap decided to join me. Geoff was from Liverpool. We arranged to meet in London so I travelled down on the 07.55 train from Crewe, arriving in Euston at 13.00. We cycled from there to Victoria past Marylebone then along Baker Street, Green Street, Park Lane and Hyde Park Corner. We stocked up with some food from Woolworths then had burgers at Wimpey and went to register the bikes for the channel ferry but were too late. We boarded the next train anyway and left Victoria at 14.30 to Dover at 16.15. We asked to register here but there was no problem. We could take them on board and register on the ferry, £2.80 each bike. The bikes were placed on top of cases in the hold. The crossing to Ostend took 3.½ hours in good weather. On board I changed money, £3 = 181 Belgian francs. Geoff saw the bikes off at Ostend. We registered our bikes on train 299 through to Zurich direct. We had half an hour so had to be quick about this. The train departed at 22.13 and arrived in Zurich Altstadt at 07.15. Swiss time was the same as UK so we put watches back one hour from Belgian time. We shared a compartment with an ex Polish-German and his family who live in Cambridge. In a situation like that, they’ve been around!
Saturday 2nd July 1977
We changed trains at Zurich but there were no sign of the bikes! We made enquires at the luggage office but all to no avail – they were not on our incoming train. They eventually arrived on the next train coming from Basel as they had been taken off our train at that point. We were away at 09.00 but first Geoff noticed his wheels had been damaged in transit. We found a cycle shop – Jesolo, and he had his wheels trued while waiting and repaired gratis. I bought a bottle of bike oil and admired the prices of clothing in there; bike vests 69SF, mitts 29SF – didn’t succumb. At another shop Geoff bought a phrase book then we escaped the city at 10.30. We were away along the north shore of Lake Zurich. I bought some bread and milk at Kϋssnacht and we found somewhere to eat our breakfast on a bench by the side of the lake, relax and enjoy the sun for a while. We made tea from a mini Gaz stove that Geoff was carrying. On to Rapperswill at 12.00 then found ourselves cycling a motorway! Don’t know how that happened, we must have taken a wrong sign at Lachen so quickly off at the next junction at Sieben. On through Niederurnen, Weesen to Betlis waterfall. This was a track only so turned back. I thought there was a road here according to a picture map. We passed over the Kerenzerberg Pass. Kids at the top at Beglingen put us off a bit. There was hand gliding activity here. Down to Walenstadt and beginning to tire. I was sore and Geoff feeling light-headed, probably affect from the sun. We passed through Flums to Sargans and booked in for the night at Hotel Post at 19.00, 39SF (£8.97) for a shared room
Sunday 3rd July 1977
Up at 07.00, rolls and coffee for breakfast, surprisingly very filling. Out at 09.00 and cycled into Liechtenstein then to Triesen and up to Triesenburg. Geoff turned back at the village part way up. We chatted with a German there who was walking; he’s from Lake Constance area. He walked with me as far as the tunnel. I learned from him some German words such as ‘links’ and ‘rechts’ having no knowledge of German. He was enthusing about the Rubens painting gallery in Vaduz. After the tunnel I continued cycling to Malbun and the top of the road. I enjoyed an ovomaltine at a cafe then left at 14.10 to rejoin Geoff. It was only 20 minutes down from Malbun to Vaduz. I bought some bananas from a dispensing machine 1SF. We then continued on to Schaan and Schaanwald. We passed through customs and arrived in Feldkirch at 16.30. We soon found the hostel in the Gisingen area after a few enquires. We had to wait until 18.00 for the hostel to open so sat outside relaxing in the sun. We shared our dormitory with a Swede, an American working in Munich US army camp as a butcher and Pakistani who never stopped shaking all night..eh. The American told us about the strong fern winds that occur in February around Munich
Monday 4th July 1977
Up at 07.30. We made breakfast; rolls, jam, biscuits and coffee. We were away at 09.00 along an almost level but busy road to Bludenz. A short stop for ice creams then we cycled up Montafon to Schruns where we bought yoghurt and milk from Grossmarkt and later made coffee at a campsite at St Gallenkirch. We cycled the climb from Partenen to Bieler Hӧhe. It was tough going, many hairpin bends and reached the first lake at 6500 feet and stopped to buy teas at 10 schillings each. From there we continued on to Silvretta at 6700 feet and now in cloud. Once it started to hailstone so we made soup on the gaz and stayed 1.½ hours for it to ease but it didn’t so we continued and braved it in the hailstones heading for Landeck. At Olmich we were so drenched that it was obvious that reaching Landeck was impossible. Geoff saw a zimmer frei board at See so we went to book. It was 120 schillings for both of us, approx £2.12 each. We washed our clothing, went for a meal then slept
Tuesday 5th July 1977
We were up at 08.00 to a good breakfast with honey, rolls and coffee and away at 09.00. The clothing had been dried for us. It was dry this morning so continued on, downhill to Landeck. I left Geoff there and cycled on towards Innsbruck. Away from Landeck at 10.30 on a hot, dusty and traffic mad road to Imst and on through Nassereith and Fernsteinsee. Here I decided to head for Garmisch. Fern Pass was easy to cycle, scenic through forestry. There’s an interesting castle and lake at Fernstein half way up the pass then a great descent with views of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain ahead, and lake on the way down. I exchanged money for 10 marks at the border in Ehrwald then passed through valley and woods to Garmisch where I passed the U.S. army camp, many American cars. On to Mittenwald 18km, arriving at 17.00, an interesting small town. I changed marks back after buying biscuits, nuts and drinks at Scharnitz. Through the customs to the top of the pass at Seefeld where it was drizzling. An interesting place, many hotels and a quiet centre closed to traffic. The rain stopped at Zirl in the valley. Now along a dead straight road into Innsbruck. I went along to the railway station to find out where the youth hostel was in Renwegg district and was given a town map with directions. I arrived at the hostel at 20.00 and met Geoff there, as arranged. He had arrived at 17.00 and had enjoyed swimming earlier. I wish I had. We went for a meal in the town after I booked in, unloaded and made up my bunk. The hostel was 37 schillings each without breakfast so it was a bit expensive. There was no pillow given, only a blanket. Back at 10.00, sleep.
Wednesday 6th July 1977
Geoff decided to stay in Innsbruck to find the hospital training centre he was after. Buying milk, yoghurt and biscuits then I went for a look around the town then headed off up the Brenner Pass. It was a warm and dusty ride to Greis where the road became steeper toward the Brenner Pass. It was now 13.30 at the border and changed money for Italian lire, approx £60. I was only left with a few pfennigs and groschen and 11 Belgian francs but plenty of Swiss francs. Down the pass into Stertzing at 14.15 and advanced my watch one hour. After Freienfeld down all the way to Schabs then turned off through Fortezza. At the station I bought a lager, really refreshing in the hot weather. Following Rienza now to Vintl and turned off uphill for Terenten but turned back when I saw how steep it was! Time was against me as I had little time to reach Toblach where I needed to stay tonight. At St Lorenzen there’s a castle then on to Bruneck. Into the town for the station to take a train to Toblach but then decided against and would stay nearby. I passed along narrow cobbled streets and a bridge near Rienz and Pustertal. I stopped at the hostel near Olanz for 5000 lire - £3.50, 4km from Bruneck and sleep at 22.30
Thursday 7th July 1977
After a good breakfast of honey, rolls, bread and coffee I was away at 10.00. It was a quick ride down to Toblach then the Cristallo mountain bursts into view. Here are two beautiful lakes, Toblachersee and Durrensee where I stopped a while for drink and writing up this report. It was a difficult 7km cycling up to Misurina but worth it, great views along the way. The village was hot and dry and has an interesting lake. I bought coffee and bun at a cafe 400 lire, sat and enjoyed the view and needed to as my head was swimming in the heat. I stopped to buy stamps then continued to Tre Croci Pass then down steeply for 3km and steep hairpins for 5km to road summit with one hotel and chapel. From there steeply down to Cortina passing two cable car lifts serving mountains either side, including the Cristallo. I bought a pack of dates, raisins and an ice tub and ‘crashed on’ as Geoff would say to Pocol. It seemed like a long drag but only 6km to the top with views of Cortina down in the valley on the climb. I stopped for an ice lemon tea at the top. Tennis courts at Hotel Argentina. Don’t cry for me Argentina – I made it. Down a bit then up an awful lot to Passo Giau, a barren desolate summit a long time later but at least the weather was dry now. My throat should have stayed that way too, not only a high pass but high prices at the ram shackled summit cafe for a grapefruit juice and a bar of chocolate, 1200 lire - £0.84. Then came the rough stuff beginning the real deterioration of my brakes – just round the corner on a gravel track, descending all the way to Selva Bridge – never again! Up the hill for the last 2km to Colle St Lucia where I stopped for the night at a zimmer frei for 3000 lire plus breakfast. I locked the bike outside under the window. I could only be offered a bunk bed so given a cheaper price, but I had the room to myself. There were thunderstorms through the night. I sampled a local drink 100 lire - £0.07 that helped me sleep
Friday 8th July 1977
A very good breakfast and needed it as looking out it was another very wet day. Away at 09.30 down steep hairpins from Belvedere viewpoint to Caprile. The clouds were moving across fast so there were views. In Caprile I bought matches then up a short rise to Rocca and Sottognia where the Marmolada mountain road starts and begins its winding route to the climax at Passo Fedaia. I relaxed a while 10km from the summit at a cafe, more a shelter from the rain for a while. This was after passing over a gorge and through a very dark unlit tunnel so used a torch, emerged at a chair lift. I stopped at the summit cafe, a hard climb up but worth it and better than the last climb. I had a hot chocolate drink and a bar of hard black Italian chocolate at the summit cafe. From here I was in South Tyrol and over the other side of the pass there was a dramatic change in the weather. I looked down on a beautiful clear lake and extensive views of snow capped peaks of the Sella Group and mountains to the west. I enjoyed a glorious descent to Canazia passing through tunnels, past chairlifts and following a descending mountain stream. From Canazia an interesting climb through forest to a junction for Sella then the scenic ascent to the Sella Pass. It was dry all the way from Marmalada until Bolzano much later. I had an ice cream half way up with views of distant mountains and Marmalada on one side and the sheer brown rock face of the Sella Group with its waterfalls on the other. The descent wasn’t very exciting and it was very cool. After Plan I took a left for Passo Gardena and Corvara, the scenery around here being more interesting. At Wolkenstein (cloudrock?) I met a young Lancashire couple at a backerie, bought two cakes and yoghurt. There followed a descent all the way to St Ulrich where I had a short stop then continued to Ponte Gardena following cars. I decided against ascending Passo Pinel. At 16km from Bolzano along the main road it started raining again and this time it was torrential as if it was making up for what I missed this afternoon. I had another stop at a cafe above Bolzano. The road follows the autobahn, River Eisach and the railway through a narrow gorge all the way to the city. The main station is right by the road on entering the city. Although I travel free I attempted to book the bike on the 19.56 train to Merano but the bike couldn’t go on the train despite a speedy arrangement by the baggage clerk so had to book it on a following train. It cost 5200 lire for the bike but only 300 lire for me – that’s £3.64 and £0.21! I was told the bike would arrive at 06.00 in Merano tomorrow. It really did so was relieved with that. I found a hotel for the night at 8000 lire with a real bath – great luxury as I really needed it, and suppose any fellow travellers next day would be glad too! I also had a balcony so could relax outside. I made the most of it.
Saturday 9th July 1977
The big day, back into Switzerland over the Stelvio Pass and the Umbrial. It was a beautiful warm day for once but a great shock when I went for the bike after a really filling breakfast. I wandered over to the station and collected the bike, no problem there but when I started to ride it I found that the wheel didn’t respond to the chainwheel as the pawls had broken. I enquired at Hotel Bel Sit for a local cycle shop and told to try at Lowengrubstraβe with arcades like as at Innsbruck. In a roundabout way I found the shop, a case of more haste the less speed. I wheeled my bike into the shop and was greeted with apologetic arms! ‘Chuiso – geschlossen’ he said, it was his morning lunch break – and this was Italy, he meant it. I told him in pigeon German – if that’s possible, and sign language, that I really would like to cycle the Stelvio today. I asked what was wrong and he took pity on a stranded Englander. He said ‘Die nabe ist kaput. Ich wϋnsch neue nabe’ – that’s a hub – so nueu hub was fitted sehr schnell. I now had a Regina Oro 14, 16, 20, 24 28 gold cassette for 12000 lire plus fitting at 1000 lire = 13000 lire, £9.10. Back to the hotel, well almost – I couldn’t find it! I found nearby Hotel Emma alright. That’s the most expensive and biggest hotel in the town at 1400 lire for bed and breakfast (night service included?). I was away at 10.30 after cleaning the bike. I asked the receptionist ’Wo ist der straβe vor Stilfserjoch Pass, bitte?’ Eventually I found my way out of the maze of streets at 11.00 and took the road west that was all uphill – what a grind. I came to Rabland where I joined two Germans for a dusch in the waterfall spray – it was too wet! I was thoroughly drenched but soon dried off in the blazing sun. All downhill now to my next stop at Naturns for a chocolate drink and writing of postcards. It was unbearably hot and my head was swimming through Castelbello. I stopped to taste handpicked orchard produce then continued to Schlanders and stopped to buy milk. The owner and business colleagues came in from the town, “Ah! You’re English, my son speaks good English, I’ll get him” I was there an hour and half! Werner had worked in Newcastle and had picked up the Geordie accent accentuated with his own South Tyrol accent. We exchanged addresses and he requested that I return to Schlanders one day and he would show me the area. He treated me to two glasses of red wine then milk afterwards to dampen the alcohol affect! They played a joke on me and moved my bike; boy did I have a shock. Also I saw a local riding it. Can I have my bike back please? Reluctantly leaving and feeling that I was only just starting the day’s ride I set off and soon caught up with the Germans again who had stopped en-route somewhere for lunch. I cycled with them as far as Eyrs, where they stopped and I continued on for Spondigna. A single hotel marks the junction for the Stelvio then across the valley floor to Prad and stopped to buy apfelsaft, chocolate and yoghurt then all set for the struggle that would take me three hours to the road top of the highest main road in Europe. Over the bridge and a short stop and on again to Gomagio where the road to Sulden branches off and the Stelvio really begins immediately with a series of hairpins. I stopped part way up and had coffee with my doggie bag from breakfast at Merano – bun and honey. On and up a fantastic narrowing valley with numbered hairpins that starts at number 46 on my way to Trafoi and no stops except for photos – but then it started to rain 2km before reaching Trafoi. I saw the beautifully situated village church with a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. The rain came on stronger and it was pelting down 4km above Trafoi. I was getting soaked and was only at the 33rd hairpin from the top. The polizia took pity on me even though I was prepared to carry on to the top. It would have been silly not to have taken up their offer though as I would be very cold at the top in sodden clothing – and then came the descent. The police were quite insistent I took up the offer and grabbed my bike to put it into the rear of the land rover and opened a door for me to sit down in the dry cab. The hairpins were a strain on my arms this time – not my legs because I was holding the door closed on my bike with my left arm and keeping me from falling out by hanging on to the bench with my other arm. Looking at the rain which now became a thunderstorm I was reluctant to hit the road again, either literally or figuratively so I hung on until I just had to voice my pain. The driver stopped the car at a wide hairpin and the other chap got out and pushed my bike in further, higher over the seat. This time though I had a pedal jammed firmly into my groin. I would rather have biked it now! – but would I be fit to ride on after this? I sat patiently. It only hurt when the driver sweeped around the hairpins, pressing the weight into me. The top was soon reached but on the way up I couldn’t see any further than the road verge because of the storm. Around there was still plenty of snow and that’s impressive in July. At 17.30 I was helped out of the land rover on to the barren summit. Barren in nature that is, as the top is tightly packed with hotels, bazaars, shops and cafes along the narrow summit. Each of the many bazaars stalls same the goods at inflated prices. Ice, mist and rain are not good conditions to be hanging around here for. I went inside a restaurant for a hot chocolate and stayed awhile to get warm. Feeling better I started the downhill and took the road for Umbrial Pass and the Swiss border. The rain had now stopped but it was still very cold. It was a complete contrast to enjoying the blazing sun and warmth in Gomagio earlier in the day. My passport was checked at the top of the Umbrial then I was enjoying the descent along the dusty hairpins to the first building where the road becomes tarmac. This was resurfaced only a year earlier in July 1976. The weather was warm in the valley. Don’t know why I took a photo of a cow! I continued down into the valley to the youth hostel called Chalet Alpenrose. How well I remember this stretch of road from last year because from here it took me a long time to reach the Umbrial Pass from the Alpenrose. I thought at the time that the Alpenrose marked the summit. Descending the pass I felt as if I was returning home. In a way I was, back to the familiar desires of a country I’ve come to love and away from Italy which I have no real interest in except for the South Tyrol and the Dolomites. I reached Santa Maria at 19.30. It was a pity my camera reached the end of the roll of film. It was a beautiful view across to the Ofen Pass from below the Alpenrose. I changed money at the hostel, 2.50SF for a 50p piece and bought a few stickers. I met Geoff again who arrived a short time later and we made coffee and told me he had cycled in one day from Innsbruck, over the Brenner Pass to Merano via Brixen. He had a night at a zimmer near Merano then cycled over the Stelvio to Alpenrose. Today he had a short ride descending the final stretch of the Umbrial to Santa Maria. He had used the day writing and sightseeing around the town. We met a girl from Michigan and a man from Schaffhausen who was hiking the mountains.
Sunday 10th July 1977
After breakfast of Alpen muesli and coffee the day unfolded into a bright and sunny contrast to the day before and we immediately started the easier climb of the Ofen Pass. In my opinion this was the most beautiful pass I’ve cycled so far. We had two short stops and the road top was easily reached. We had coffees at the summit cafe, bought biscuits and chocolate and took photos of the summit height marker then down through the Parco Nazional at a fast descent to the tunnel where the road ascends again for 3km then a final long sweep down to Zernez to be welcomed by rain – but it was only a shower. Continuing on, a gradual climb most of the way to S-chanf then almost level. Geoff developed stomach trouble so we stopped at a campsite where he asked to shower then shortly afterwards we continued on. I bought some cakes at Zouz then we took a turning for Bever-Samedan. There was a fantastic view across St Moritz Lake – Moritzersee after a final climb into St Moritz Dorf where we found the youth hostel, booked in and unloaded. We enjoyed generous portions of spaghetti Bolognese and coke for 8.00SF each. Geoff now decided to go it alone and head north over the Splϋgen Pass to Chur then Sargens, Glarus, Klausen Pass, Altdorf to Lucerne. We arranged to meet up again in Lucerne on Friday. Supper was coffee and biscuits. What a night! I hardly slept because two Canadians were talking far into the night on the possibility of a world tour and presently touring Europe for a few months, earning money by doing part time jobs along the way. I wished they were doing a night shift right now.
Monday 11th July 1977
Breakfast was a reasonable price at 2.50SF each, and we had plenty. I had a rest day today and went discover St Moritz Bad without the bike, locked up at the hostel. I bought some Swiss stamps for my collection for 19.70SF and went to the swimming baths at 10.15. The swimming entrance fee was approx £1.00 but worth it. Conversion rate 4.14 SF = £1.00. I had some lunch at the baths for 5.00SF and enjoyed a bratwurst with a roll and German mustard and Ovomaltine. Feeling really refreshed after a swim I decided to go cycling again and set off in sunny, warm climate at 13.00 along the lake to Maloja Pass where I stopped a while for orange juice and cake then continued on from the road top and descended the pass, an easy and exciting ride to Chiavenna in Italy. Cyclists here were telling me I was carrying too much weight! I had a short rest at the border then a look around the Italian town. I couldn’t help noticing the open men’s urinals in the centre of the town street with traffic passing both ways either side – no privacy! There were plenty of bars open but no shops. I started cycling the south side of the Splϋgen Pass and found this a challenge as it’s difficult with a few unlit tunnels. There are plenty of hairpins to reach the top at Campodolcino where I stopped for the night at Europa Hotel, 3700 lire. (1534 lire = £1.00) I washed my clothes while there.
Tuesday 12th July 1977
Unfortunately I didn’t pick up my pyjamas when I left in the morning as they were still under the sheets – really careless – but at least my panniers were lighter! I enjoyed a good breakfast and was away at 10.00. The continuation of the ascent of the Splϋgen took me 3 hours. It was more difficult than the first stage yesterday. There were more hairpins and tunnels but it was an exciting climb when plenty of wide views. I had a stop en route at Stuetta for cold orange juice followed by an easy ride around the lake for 3km. I passed through the Italian customs at Montespluga then the final 3.5km of tightly packed hairpins to the road summit. There was plenty of snow at the top. I enjoyed an exhilarating ride down a series of hairpins after Swiss customs and I reached Splϋgen at 13.00 and had lunch, spaghetti bolognese, rolls, and a lager 11.90SF. Ate too much, stomach ache and digestion on the steady rise along a lane through Rheinwald to Hinterrhein. I changed the remainder of the lire at Splϋgen. A woman I spoke with at a transport cafe told me she had been to Liverpool 15 years ago. I had a mug of tea there and filled my bottle with orange juice for the easy climb to the road summit of San Bernardino. A first its gentle hairpins and after one series the road traverses an upper valley to where the second hairpins begin. It was an easy ascent and was surprised to be at the top so soon. I stopped for a cool apfelsaft looking across the lake. Nations flags fly in the wind at the top. Along the lake to a short rise then a steep and scenic descent to San Bernardino village. I had a short look around. The domed church looks untidy and a miniature of Vatican St Peters Basilica I kept to the lane and easily out-distanced 2 moped riders down the pass to Messoco and stopped to buy milk, chocolate and ovomaltine sweets. Further on it was less interesting where the main road joins at Soazza. I had to cycle in heavy traffic but it was a steady descent and along a hot, dusty road into Bellinzona. It was very tiring having to put up with the noise and fumes from the traffic, mainly lorries. At a transport cafe at Leggia I drank an ovomaltine 1.50SF then away from the main road at last at Grono for the quiet road out of Grisons canton into Ticino and soon entered into Bellinzona. Except for its castle area I didn’t see much of any interest there. I went to the station for a train from here at 19.30 to Lugano at 20.10. The guard was annoyed because I couldn’t attempt to speak Italian. I found the YHA at Crociffiso but it was full but was sent to a house used as an overflow hostel just past the station. I was charged 12.00SF for room and breakfast, bath, wrote postcards and sleep at 23.00. The weather was still plaguing me as it was thunder storming with heavy rain at 04.00.
Wednesday 13th July 1977
Up at 09.00 for breakfast and away at 10.00. An American lost his sleeping bag and the landlady went frantic in screaming Italian when she thought he was accusing her of taking it. I got away before the real sparks started to fly. I cycled down the steep street into the town and had a good look round the area. I bought a load of old Swiss stamps – 159.40Sf – about £35. I cycled to Paradisio and over the causeway back into Italy at Campione, an enclave in Switzerland. There’s a fantastic gateway there then back down the hill – San Salvatore base- into Lugano. There’s a miniature model Swiss village at Melide that was worth a visit. Another look around the town then with bike went for the 15.12 train from Lugano to Airolo, 2.40SF for self and 3.20SF for the bike. On the train I used the time bringing the holiday record up to date and writing my last postcard; this one to Mum and Dad which I later posted at St Gotthard road summit. Its fantastic scenery towards Airolo and the train track performs two loops winding through spiral tunnels. I was in Airolo at 17.00 and set off in unsettled weather for 2km along an easy cobbled road. The rain came on stronger at Leventine so on with the protective clothing. At the Alpenrose it turned into a sudden gale-force wind. I bought a tea drink 1.20SF then off up the road that’s marked ‘autobahn’ as there’s no other road. I battled up the first two hairpins to the cover of the avalanche shelter, emerging at the other end and the rain had stopped. There was a perfect semi circle rainbow down in the valley. It was dry all the way up now. The storm with thunder and lightning had passed as quickly as it started. At the Panorama viewpoint cafe and shop I met an English lad who was serving behind the counter. He told me that Ticino Italian Swiss are not easily understood by Italians neither is pure German spoken in the German part of Switzerland. Only French Swiss speak the same language as in France. I continued up the St Gotthard to Val Tremola and the old cobbled road to the hospice at the top. There was mist and low cloud but it soon cleared. From there it was a sweep down the mountain to Hospental at 19.45. I had a meal at a cafe there; ham, eggs and bread for 5.00SF. To the hostel and made coffee there and to bed at 22.00it was a cold night with not enough bed cover and the window was open.
Thursday 14th July 1977
Today it was a grand tour of three high passes; Susten, Grimsel and Furka passes. Leaving Hospental at 08.15 then Andermatt at 09.00 it was a clear and dry day so far as I descended the lower Gotthard Pass, stopping to view the Schollenen Gorge. In this narrow gorge the river flows down in foaming torrents where road, rail and river share the narrow gorge, squeezing through a long crevice in the towering rocks. At Wassen I bought milk, yoghurt, chocolate and biscuits, 5.90SF then took a left heading for the Susten Pass and immediately began the climb through tunnels and over a bridge spanning the gorge. I changed to shorts and put the bike into the lowest gear to reach Farnigen where I met an English couple from Surrey. They offered me coffee and biscuits. They had a side window to the car smashed in Italy and a radio was stolen. I stopped again later for ovomaltine 1.20SF then up hairpins as the road had followed the valley so far. Now I was entering a road lined with snow, through the Uri tunnel and a final length in a tunnel on this road to emerge at Susten Pass road summit. I took a short stop then steeply down and now it was raining again. I passed through many avalanche shelter galleries to Feldmoos where the rained had eased. I bought a roll of 35mm film, 17.50SF then continued all the way down to Gadmantal where I saw many beautiful houses and green valley with great views of Fleschenhorn to the left (east), and the Susten Glacier. From there to Innerkirchen where I bought a chocolate drink and fruit yoghurt, 2.00SF. I started to cycle up to Haslital at 15.00. It was an easy ride as far as Guttanen then rising steeper past Handegg followed by hairpins to the first reservoir where I stopped to make coffee from the small gaz stove, and had an orange and chocolate. From here up final misty hairpins with fine views of the grim and dark looking Grimselsee with its small island and cablecar. At the top of the Grimsel Pass I found it was too misty to take a photo. I saw the chapel then went over the top and slowly down the other side because of road-works in progress. Towards the bottom of the pass there are great views of the Rhone Glacier to the left. From the summit it made the view of it from this direction so worthwhile. Down to Gletsch where I bought another ovomaltine then began the slow climb to the base of the Furka hairpins then a bit faster up to Belvedere. This was too much for today; I had developed a back ache! At Belvedere I sneaked into the Rhone Glacier entrance. There was nobody around. Back to the bike and up to the road summit of the Furka Pass at 20.30. There were no more hairpins and the road was now almost level. It was getting dark quickly now so I wrapped up with as much clothing as possible and descended fast along frightening hairpins in the dark! Very exciting! At Realp the road levels out. It was painful now on my back and hands. It was a fast ride back to Hospental, arriving there at 21.20. There was noise from youth in the dormitory so had to tell them to be quiet, “Ruhe, ich bin mude!” To sleep and shattered, no problem sleeping at 23.00
Friday 15th July 1977
I was up at 08.30 and away at 10.00 to Andermatt. It was a misty descent of the Schollenen Gorge so it wasn’t worth stopping. Below there was still mist at Wassen. At Gurtnellen reservoir flows an outlet pool with bridges. Waterworks and pipes at Amsteg. At Erstfeld where there’s a large railway sidings the foot of the Gotthard Pass was reached and the road is more level. I took a cycle-path from here to Aldorf and had lunch there 12.00 – 13.30; I had soup, spaghetti Bolognese, salad 7.50SF and coke, 1.80SF. On from here to Fluelen where I exchanged a further £10 for francs. At Axenstraβe a short climb then a long downhill past Telleskappel. I stopped a while and walked down the steps by the chapel and down to the lake shore. There are four wall paintings under a cover here depicting a Hapsburg on a horse supposedly arresting young William Tell, the second has Tell escaping on a boat from the Hapsburgs, another with Tell assassinating a Hapsburg at Kussnacht and the last one shows the three cantons, part of Ruetli. Back to the bike and cycled on to Brunnen, arriving 15.15. Here I had a problem; a sudden lurch to the back of the bike – my rear hub collapsed. So those cyclists I met in Chiavenna were correct in saying I was carrying too much weight! The bearings had collapsed in the hub making the bike unrideable. I was so fortunate this had happened near a train station and on my last day not far from Lucerne and my final destination. There was nothing else for it but to go for a train so from Brunnen I boarded at 16.17 a train to Lucerne. I locked the bike up there and walked the city. Later I wheeled the bike to the hostel, arriving at 19.45. Geoff was there already, as arranged. Overnight stay was 8.00SF which is twice the price of staying at Hospental but, as with St Moritz, I was given sheets. We met two lads from Lowestoft who were travelling by train and hiking. We had warm milk and biscuits on the veranda then bed at 22.00
Saturday 16th July 1977
We had breakfast at the hostel for 3.00SF. Geoff went on to Zurich and had the morning in Lucerne. I bought two Swiss music culture cassette tapes 34.50SF, two ties 25.00SF and Swiss stamps 159.40SF and some books – one of Switzerland from the air, 39.00SF and had a meal, bratwurst and chips 3.30SF and I was now counting small change as I was reaching the end of my Swiss money. We met again at 21.30 and travelled home via Ostend.
Sunday 17th July 1977
I went for a train from Euston at 08.55 and arrived home at 12.00
Conversion rates £1.00 = 4.33 Swiss francs. £1.00 = 28.20 Austrian schillings £1.00 = 1450 lire £1.00 = 4 deutschmarks 1 Deutschmark = 7 Austrian schillings. £1.00 = 60.33 Belgian francs