Rue des Grandes Alpes
France
June 2000
Friday 16th June.
Runcorn to Liverpool Airport, Geneva Airport to the city, computer: 1500 - 1518
Train to Crewe then the Central Trains service as far as Runcorn. I cycled over the bridge and the main Liverpool road to Liverpool Airport. This was a mistake! It would have been much quieter and a lot safer if I’d taken the Halebarns road from a turning just over Runcorn Bridge. It would also have been a shorter route. The danger was the traffic coming on and leaving the slip roads. At one stage a lorry on the right overtook me and another one went off on the slip road to my left and I was sandwiched in a sudden air tunnel. That was frightening. If I go from Liverpool Airport some future year I take the safer route. Liverpool airport is very small in comparison with Manchester. I left Geneva airport and found a cycle path indicating Gare CFF. I followed this and found myself at the airport rail station! I was banking on finding the main city station. I asked the way and was directed over a bridge then along a cycle route past offices onto a quiet road that led toward the city. I discovered I had a slight sideways bump on the front wheel that would have happened on the aircraft or when the bike was being loaded but other than this I was impressed with Easyjet. The buckle in the wheel was only slight and it didn’t affect my tour. The weather in Geneva was very good, a clear blue sky and warm even though it was evening. As I approached the City through the commercial and university areas the roads became busier as I approached the lake, down hill. I found the promenade, Rue de Lausanne and the youth hostel. I booked in for 24SF. I had a look further along the promenade and entered a park area where the first U.N. building was. From one point it was possible to see along the lake as far as Nyon. The white majesty of Mont Blanc was also clearly visible to the south. I did a ‘U’ turn and headed for the city bridge at the end of du Lac. After the bridge I turned off to the right to find the old town. I eventually found it after first spotting a miniature version of a Russian Orthodox church complete with gold onion towers joined by gold chains. To the left of this, down the road I spied the buildings of the old town. There was a cultural fair in full swing. A third world country was represented at each tent. At the Ethiopian tent a bought a reasonable beer (no cycling today!) for 3SF. At the Ghana tent I bought some wonderful hot sausages and rolls (5SF each) to go with it – washed down by another beer! I was really full and it had hardly cost me!
Today and tomorrow along the lake I only used 40SF (£17) I really couldn’t expect bed, breakfast, evening meal and mid morning snack for any less than that! Before having my sausage and beer I put my name down for a free trial massage at 10.30pm on the large balcony area behind the tents that overlook the main town. I told the masseur I was going on a very long cycle ride following the line of the Route des Grandes Alpes. She told me to sit on the chair backwards, let myself go limp, and relaxed, as she pressed hard on my arms, legs and back which really eased my muscles ready for the trip. From the old town I cycled back over the river via the walkway bridge and into the hostel at 11.15.The massage also helped me to sleep very well that night! Earplugs came in useful, as there’s always a snorer in a dormitory. With earplugs and blindfold I was oblivious to all until 6.00am.
Saturday 17th June
Geneva to St Jean de Sixt, computer: 1519 – 1600, 81 miles as planned.
Michelin Maps 70, pages 16,17 & map 74, pages 7,8
No bread at breakfast at 6.30am. It hadn’t been delivered yet. After cereal and yoghurt I went to collect my YHA membership card. The man behind the desk couldn’t find it! What a hostel! Eventually he found it, it hadn’t been filed away and was still in with the ‘in’ batch for processing. I left the hostel at 7.15 so didn’t lose much time. I anticipated that I needed ten hours for this ride today so needed an early start. I set off back into the city along the promenade, very quiet and peaceful – only the joggers and the street cleaners out. It was a beautiful crisp morning. I followed the cycleway along the lake to where it ends at Vesenau then took the lane along the lake to Hermance at 8.00 where I said goodbye to Switzerland and hello to France. I followed the leafy lane along du lac, through Yvoire to rejoin the main road at Sciez. I bought two croissants and a chocolate pain at a patisserie, and a can of apple juice. After downing that it was out along the main road, which is a very busy dual carriageway for 10km to Thonon les Bains at 10.15 and the beginning of the Rue des Grandes Alpes. I was so glad that I didn’t opt to cycle along that main road. The first part of the route from Thonon is a steady incline for 11km, following the river through a gorge as it cuts through the mountainside towering on either side. There was a great deal of white rafting happening along the river and judging by the shouts they were really enjoying the challenge of surfing over the rocks. There were coach parties of people being taught how to battle with the river current. I noticed some people sitting in a raft being taught by the side of the road. After 15km there’s a short easy rise for 4km to Le Jotty where there’s a footpath down to the Gorges du Diable (Devil’s Gorge). The walkway through the gorge is a raised path on supports over the fast torrent through a narrow gorge. The next 10km were easy, most of it downhill. The ride this far was a good warm up for what was going to come my way later in the day! Just before St Jean d’Aulps the road climbs up to Les Gets, 1163m, (Col number 1).
I decided against cycling up the circuit to take in Col de la Joux Verte or it would really set me back. I wouldn’t arrive in St Jean de Sixt for a further 2 hours at least – I’ll leave it until another year. My handlebars gave way near the top of Les Gets. Possibly they were knocked in transit on the plane. I’m glad this happened going up and not on the descent down the other side of the pass. I fixed them at the top. Now I’m continually checking them before all descents! The road drops steeply down to Taninges. There’s no more gorges on the left on the way down. (East of the road) Through Taninges the bridge is down over the river south of the town. This would have meant a long detour to the east of 14km so I ignored the warnings and chanced the outcome. Two fishermen helped me through the four barriers that closed off the bridge. They were as determined as I was because they wanted to fish on the other side. It was a very quiet road for the next 2km as no traffic was heading for the bridge that was down, then slightly up through woods, I joined the traffic around the diversion part way up a small col called Col de Chatillon, 738m, (Col number 2).
There were no summit markers at the first two cols so nothing to take a picture of. Over the top of the rise and down steeply to Cluses where I had some difficulty finding road number D4 for Col de la Colombiere. I asked in pigeon French in a hotel for directions. The road out is a bit confusing. There are 2 new roundabouts not marked on the Michelin map. It seems the first one indicates the autoroute and the dual carriageway starts at the roundabout and I had visions of cycling along a motorway that I couldn’t get off until the next junction and stand the risk of being mown down. As it was this is the right route and not an autoroute for a couple of miles. I was directed along here, signposted Annecy on green autoroute signs which I ignored then to the second roundabout and the third turning for Col de la Colombiere, then an immediate left off this and up the quieter road that wastes no ground climbing to Tete de la Salaz, 1297m, (Col number 3), I took 2 hours to get up here from 3.00 until 5.00pm – then 20 minutes to sweep down the opposite side. There’s no road summit marker at the top but I took a photo at the street sign opposite a café where I had a café grande. The ride up is steep and hot, mainly through woods but there’s also plenty of scenery through the many gaps in the trees. To the west and below is the main road from Cluses to Chamonix, which I was glad to leave behind. The summit isn’t much to speak off, nothing dramatic but it’s on the way up to the Col de la Colombiere so that I could claim two cols! Down to le Reposoir, the last place I could have bought a drink before reaching the major col of the day, at the foot of the climb. Not losing sight or sound of the large village below with gun shooting going on down there among the revelries in the village square – great smell of barbecue on the way up – then later the clanging and jangling of cowbells - it took me 2 hours from 5.30 to 7.30 to reach Col de la Colombiere 1618m, (Col number 4). There was a lot of snow on Pnte Percee (2752m) to the east, a backdrop to the pass on the way down to St Jean. The route up from le Reposoir is only 7.5km - 5 miles – which I achieved at the breakneck speed of 2.5 mph – but it really is steep! The first restaurant at the top from the north side can be seen for the last 3km as the road became steeper so this was a good encouragement and an aim in view. I donned helmet and jacket for the descent. Except for the barren 3km to la Mulaterie most of the pass down from that point is through a series of villages including one large village called le Grand Bornand. I became a little confused with the direction from here as the road came to a ‘T’junction. The other route here led back along the river Borne to the mountain. I turned right and a few more kilometres down to St Jean. The way I came over the pass, although hard going, is very scenic. The way up from le Reposoir, and Cluses earlier seems to go on forever but I wasn’t too long getting down to St Jean de Sixt for the night at 8.15pm. The last kilometre before the town is a short stretch up but nothing difficult. Here I was reliving my last experience here in 1976 when I came here on the way to Chamonix and Forclaz into Switzerland from Annecy to watch the Michelin men, lead cars with horns blaring and then the flash past of the Tour de France as it took about 10 seconds to fly through the village. Ah, what a glorious anti-climax! I was on the bike for 11 hours today, cycling 81 miles which was pretty poor showing if I was cycling Cheshire but I had covered four climbs today, one being truly alpine as warm up for what was to come.
Sunday 18th June
St Jean de Sixt to Bourg St Maurice, computer: 1600 – 1657, 57 miles.
Michelin map 74, pages 7,17,18
I did less than expected today. I was hoping to arrive in Moutiers by evening for the Col de la Madeleine but the day was long enough with three major climbs to Bourg St Maurice. I joined plenty of other cyclists on the road up to the ski resort of La Clusaz, 10 minutes away. It was already warm at 8.15 and there were far more cyclists honking away up the pass than there were motorists honking at them! It really was a colourful long parade; not a club but many were lone cyclists, homme and femme in very colourful outfits – some very sexy! I turned off the road for Col de la Croix Fry, 1477m, (Col number 5)(pronounced ‘qwu-fray) One and a half hours later I arrived at the top through the woods, then the view opened out near the summit. The pass was covered in pine and larch. There seems to be a short col not far from the summit as some cyclists had taken a road and came back again while I was still up there. I took photos of the open road summit, which is one big car park with a few shops dotted about and couple of small hotels on the perimeter. I saw a sign outside a restaurant at the top; ‘La maison ne fait pas credit’.
The way down back to the foot of the road to the Aravis took 20 minutes. Turned immediate right at the road junction for the next climb of the day. I rejoined the fashion parade of multi coloured bikes, Joseph’s technicolour dreamcoats and dreamgirls! This was a very enjoyable climb, I chatted to a girl from Annecy wearing a red leotard for a few minutes on the way up. She said it wasn’t a club ride but cycling up the Col des Aravis was the thing to do to be seen. So you really don’t grow out of teenage years then! …I still do it! Another fellow with a very posh yellow bike was taking it for a walk up the pass – he’d snapped his chain. It was a perfect day and easy ride to the top, no steep gradients and the road had been resurfaced ready for the Tour de France to come over in a couple of weeks. No wonder the conditions brought all the butterflies out. I arrived at the Col des Aravis, 1498m, (Col number 6) at 10.30, had a Magnum ice cream which was extortionate at 18FF, took photographs of the summit markers and the chapel at the top, ‘Sainte Anne protegez les voyageurs’, then steeply down through the Gorges de l’Arondine to Flumet at 11.30. From here across the main street for an immediate climb up the next pass. Where the foot of the Aravis ended in Flumet the next one began at the crossroads in this narrow valley. Through Notre Dame de Bellacombe with the bells of the large Catholic Church peeling at 12 noon. It was a very slow ride to the road summit of the Col des Saises, 1650m, (Col no. 7) (Pronounced Saseeay). I needed a gallon of water in that heat at a hotel in Arcaniere. Steep up through the tree-lined pass with a down bit to1432m then steeply up again to compensate, finally arriving at the pass at 2.00. It’s a disappointing summit as it’s a bit barren. Took the usual pictures of the pass markers at the wide area at the top, two roads run parallel with the main road over for a short distance. This seems to be a lorry park. To the west is a monument to French, British and American parachutists in the war. Just below the pass is les Saises village, another ski resort like Les Gets and la Clusaz built in the wooden chalet style that’s a poor copy of the Swiss mountain village resort. Careered down the mountainside at 2.30 via Hauteluce rather than the natural descent to Villard at the foot of the pass, which would take me a little to far to the west for the climb of today’s final pass. At the road junction Hauteluce seemed more inviting than a short uphill to Le Praz and to Villard. The village down below lay on a glorious sweeping descent to Beaufort on the road leading to Col du Joly. This is a beautiful area and definitely a route worth exploring some future year. Down to the Beaufort road slightly to the east of the village at Defile d’Entreroches and an immediate beginning to the last long climb of the day. There are 2 passes in one here; the Col de Meraillet reached at the edge of Lac du Roseland and the Cormet de Roseland, my ambition for the day. There is also the possibility of including the Col du Pre from a southerly direction from Beaufort but I missed seeing that possibility on the day. The ride to the Cormet from Beaufort took me 4 hours from 3.00 until 7.00 and there is much to see along the way. Steeply up to begin with, followed by an avalanche shelter in the lower gorge – this could be seen from way above. There are some steep hairpins from the lower section to Col de Meraillet, overlooking the Barrage de Roseland. They are so steep that the Michelin map really doesn’t do the area justice; the higher stages of the lower col are also steep as I approached the Lac de Roseland, after reaching the side of the dam. Breaking through the tree line it’s now very different scenery as the view opened up around the reservoir. On the opposite side of the lake I could see the barren white cliffs that support the road as it leaves the lake and continues its onslaught for even higher ground in zigzags up the cliff face. For now though I decided to have a break and stopped at the café overlooking the lake for an ice tea. On the wall of the café is the indication that this is the road summit of Col de Meraillet, 1605m, (Col number 8) On leaving the col there’s a short drop along side the reservoir until the head of the lake, a couple more cafes and a chapel by the lake. On rounding the lake the ascent of the Cormet de Roseland began as I panted up the twists and turns up the rock face. At one turn, above the lake inwards, there’s a massive waterfall drop from down the mountainside and smaller falls on the way up before reaching the gap at the ridge above the lake where the climb eased off as I entered the alpine valley below the pass. I was becoming tired and was so glad I was approaching the top of the Cormet de Roseland, 1968m, (Col number 9) which I could now see in front on reaching the cleft above the lake. This was a barren scrubland not unlike Scotland but a lot higher! A French man stopped at the top as I placed my bike on the stone summit marker, about to take a picture. He offered to take a picture of me and we chatted for a while. It was now 7.00pm and I was getting tired and hungry but here I was! It was down the mountain all the way from here to Bourg St Maurice, 20km away with a sore backside! I searched Bourg for a decent hotel and found one called Hotel de la Colonne at 90 Rue Jean Moulin, 3700 Bourg St Maurice at 170FF for a small room and shower, a bit of a dive but I slept OK. I put my bike in the room, as the front door was open all night. I went out for a meal back along the Cormet road a very short way where I had spotted a rustic pizzeria on entering Bourg earlier. I enjoyed a 3 course meal of salad starter, pork and chips, ice cream and wine. I needed a good meal for the real high climbs of the Petit St Bernard and Col d’Iseran tomorrow.
Monday 19th June
Bourg St Maurice to Val d’Isere, computer: 1657 – 1710, 53 miles.
Michelin map 74, pages 18,19
I set off from Bourg at 8.00 I biked along to the end of the valley at Seez, slightly up. I asked at a hotel, at the junction of roads of the Petit Du St Bernard and Val d’Isere, if I could leave most of my weight there in a safe place so that I could ascend the Petit St Bernard like a sensible cyclist. They said yes as long as I buy something! I had a coffee while the owner and staff were busy opening up, they were hosing down the front of the hotel and the flowers and making a good job of the tables and chairs while I sat in the middle of it with my luggage in front of the bar inside. I moved it into the back then enjoyed the freedom of a lightweight bike up the lower slopes of the pass. The bike responded so much better with only essential weight but it still took me 3 hours to get to the top! I averaged 6 mph but this was twice my normal speed up a pass at 3 mph so if I had gone with the full load up here it would have really set my schedule back today. This is the same distance as Val d’Isere later and that took me 5 hours but not as steep and 800 metres lower. The 19 hairpins of the Col du Petit St Bernard started right away in Seez through meadows and then into the woods above the village. At le Noyeray it becomes a little steeper. It wasn’t too bad getting up; I got a ‘bravo’ from a passing motorist on a hairpin. I felt like I was in the Tour de France! On reaching the last right turn back down to le Chatelard I came to the tree line. I stopped about 2/3 of the way up at a bend where there was a water tap, filled the bottles, took in the view and carried on up to la Roserie. Stopping at a hotel on the side road into the last village in France I had a large crusty ham roll and a cup of hot chocolate (saved most of that roll until reaching St Foy Tarentaise on the lower climb of the Col d’Iseran later) then continued through the rest of the village, following a diversion through because of road works. At the other side was a final hotel then open country. Just past the village, a bend to the right and a large pulley wheel marking the upper end of a draglift for skiers then the end was in sight. From here I could make out the Italian hospice and St Bernard on his tall pedestal guarding the road pass. It’s very rocky and barren here; a large group of cyclists (carrying no weight I hasten to add) overtook me on the last few kilometres before those structures in the distance. A few waterfalls and plenty of snow up here either side of the road. From la Roserie, Bourg St Maurice is visible for most of this last stretch way down in the valley below. An easier climb the final kilometres, round a teasing twist that took me suddenly higher behind St Bernard, to emerge in front and then past the hospice on the right to the road summit of Col du Petit St Bernard, 2188m, (Col number 10) where I got another cyclist to take a photo of me while we in turn were being videoed! The only café up here was on the Italian side and I had no lire. Took pictures of the French border sign, the hospice and good old St Bernard, then lower down of Bourg St Maurice in the valley. I made a fast descent back down the pass; I was videoed again flashing past so I waved at him as he swung his video round. All the way the scenic route is an amazing contrast in the land from the top to the bottom of the pass.
I collected my bags from the hotel at 1.30pm.It took me an hour to arrive back in Seez from the summit. Following me down was a car and caravan, which kept a safe distance behind me; this ensured that nothing overtook me most of the way down which was very reassuring. It was a traffic free descent except for that coming up. Rearranged my bags then started off on the Val d’Isere road. From Seez to Villaroger the road, curiously, is going down but to compensate there’s a steep and sweaty section up to the next village at St Foy Tarentaise where a group of cyclists I had seen disgorging from a support vehicle a few kilometres back at Longefoy were relaxing and drinking at the last watering hole before Val d’Isere, the Monal restaurant. One member of the cycling team spoke English and said they had all come from Grenoble and were a factory club and staying at C.S.A.S. digs – family rooms for workers – in Val d’Isere. They were cycling a circuit back to Grenoble via Col d’Iseran and Col d’Izoard and warned me of a possibility of a bridge south of the Izoard that had been washed away. They were going to find out by ringing the Gendarme in Briancon tonight if the bridge was now repaired. The cyclists went on and I followed soon after I finished my drink and filled my water bottles. I rode the next steep bit to la Thuile where a straggling Grenoblian overtook me to the sound ‘Shord eh?’ which I churned over in my mind - chaud it certainly was and I needed plenty of water on the way up here. In the heat my underside was beginning to hurt again. I took a picture of the waterfalls flowing down from Mt Pourri at la Balme then came to road works at le Villaret; the road was being tarmaced. Does le Tour come this way? It was a long slog to the side of the dam of Lac du Chevril. The wall of the dam can be seen from 3km away. I would like to know whom the giant face represents on the wall of the dam, curly black hair and a serious expression. I stayed at Barrage de Tignes for a little while. A girl got out of a land rover that stopped in front of me. The back indicated that it came from Salisbury. “You’ve come a long way in that”. She replied; “It’s worth it when you get here”. I took in the view of the dam then carried on down this time through a series of avalanche shelters following the lake, finally a couple of small tunnels emerging at la Dialle where there are 2 hotels by the side of the lake, one more tunnel to emerge through a gorge into Val d’Isere. The first view was of high-rise apartments for the winter visitors. Hardly any places open as I tried to find a hotel for the night. I met up with a couple of the cycling team again. They directed me to the only hotel open – the Hotel Olympus just behind the town. They were all staying in their factory digs and apologised that they couldn’t invite me there – French workers and families only
Tuesday 20th June
Val d’Isere to St Michel de Maurienne (Col du Telegraphe),
computer: 1710 - 1775, 65 miles.
Michelin maps 74, page 19, map 77, pages 7,8,9
Out at 7.50 to climb the col before the sun gets too strong. The cycle team from Grenoble were also out, they passed me a kilometre on the way out of Val d’Isere. The chap who spoke English told me he had phoned the gendarme in Briancon last night and was told that the bridge was still down but that it would be repaired today – hope so as I really would like to get over it on Thursday. The first 2km out of Val d’Isere are easy enough, a steady incline up to Pont St Charles then 2 hairpins, which marks the beginning of the real climb. Val d’Isere was now in the valley below as the road comes round in a giant ‘U’ shape above. A slight drop on reaching a point directly south of the town is deceptive as the road then swings away to the south leaving Val d’Isere and a sudden climb up past Tete du Salaise. At this point a helicopter was making regular drops of large metal objects with a man on the ground unhooking each drop as the helicopter hovered. I guessed that it was to repair the chairlift going up to Rer de Bellevarde for next winter’s skiing. After 4 hairpins a lonely straight section (as straight as a dog’s hind leg!) after another steep bit, beyond the final hairpin, in-between snow walls now and for the last hump to the road summit. Painted on the road were the 1km countdown markers, which start 5km from the summit and become 100m markers at the last kilometre. The way up was very scenic, becoming barren and rocky. I finally arrived at the road summit of the Col de l’Iseran, 2770m, (Col number 11) and the highest main road up and over route in Europe – the highest ‘proper’ pass, at 10.30. The climb took me just over 2.1/2 hours for 10 miles – but it’s so steep! The route is almost as good as the Stelvio but I much prefer the Italian pass for the setting and view of the summit from both sides. The summit to the Col de l’Iseran is hidden by a final hump and a bend from the north. Unlike the buildings perched close together on the Stelvio this giant col only has one café and a chapel. I had an hour at the top of l’Iseran, for photographs, one of me by an Austrian biker, and the rest of the time waiting in the café for a ham omelette to be made. I had lung and backache when I reached the top so needed this. This is the highest point I have ever climbed – soon to be outdone again when I tackle the Bonette in a few days. I would like to have bought a souvineer at the top of the pass but there was nothing worth having. At 11.30 I donned helmet and jacket for the sweep down the mountain, through the snow walls and high cliffs, to a bridge over the Lenta at P. de la Neige, which is worth a look at. The road careers madly on down to Bonneval, 3 long sections separated by hairpins announcing the village in the long valley, which then opens out to a more gentle descent down the lower part of the pass. From here it’s uneventful as a road but the rock walls of the sides of the valley that spread up steeply to the mountains of the Vanois National Park are quite spectacular. I took the more scenic detour through Bessans. The village has an interesting old centre with it’s building arranged around an open square. I passed under a structure supporting pipes over the road. Men were busy burning off paint and the bits were flying everywhere. I warned 2 approaching cyclists of the danger but they just waved at me. Ah the problems of monolinguism! It’s a short rise to la Madeleine then a long sweep down to Laslevillard at 1.00pm. The tourist Information Office was shut – planned to leave most of my weight here for the next col climb. Turned off for the col, had a drink at a café in the village and left the weight there and enjoyed an easy climb up through the woods, criss crossing the chairlift after every hairpin, finally to emerge at 2km from the road summit at a viewpoint where a board indicates the panorama to the north detailing the mountains of the Vanoise National Park. A short stretch of easy gradient and I was near the Italian border again at Col du Mont Cenis, 2083m, (Col number 12). It took me an hour to get up here at 2.30. I stayed for 20 minutes then descended back to my bags in 10 minutes. There are 5 hairpins, 8 if the 3 in the pastures above the village are included. There are some steep parts but not so difficult if travelling light. I took pictures of the Lac du Mont Cenis and the summit sign – no one around to take one of me. The new walkways up here are joint projects between the French and Italians to improve relationships after the memory of very heavy battles during the early part of WW2 when Italy was an Axis power. The walks lead to old lookout forts and dugouts. The tree line is breached 1.1/2 miles from the top, just past the last crossing of the chairlift cables reaching up to Grand La Tomba. It was very windy at the top that day from the tree line to the summit and I hoped the wind would change, as this was my general direction for the rest of my tour. I developed trouble with my back brake at Lanslebourg, it was rubbing on the wheel as I hit a pothole going through roadworks, and the road hadn’t been resurfaced. From here on I had to let out the brake a touch going up and along the level but when descending I had to let it rub on the frame or experience kamikaze. One pannier had gone flying and pulled the wheel with it. I had made my decision descending the Iseran not to go over the Cenis to Susa and back to the Rue des Grandes Alpes via the Montegenevre because it isn’t just one pass in the Susa area (Colle della Finestre) but a string of others on the way to Sestriere along the ridge as well as the Colle del Nivolet further north. These areas are worth a few days discovering so I’ll visit next year perhaps.
The road is all downhill from Lanslebourg to St Michel de Maurienne, a great sweep down at Termignon and past the military fort at Avrieux and another swift descent to Modane where I shopped at a supermarche for milk, sandwiches and chocolate. While I sat eating I saw an English lad in his twenties begging for money and a lift to Chambery. A French girl went and shopped and came out with some food for him and wished him a good stay in Chambery. I was ashamed to admit I was English so kept quiet. In complete contrast to the ride down from Lanslebourg the stretch of dusty and smelly road to St Michel was the worse part of my whole route so far as it is semi - autoroute. There’s a brand new autoroute under construction parallel and to the north of the main road. If it wasn’t for the downhill to St Michel this road would definitely be a no-go. Perhaps Mont Cenis, Susa and Montgenevre is a viable alternative route if heading south and the Col du Galibier wasn’t on the planned route – but for me it was, so I had no alternative but to follow the heavy traffic on the to St Michel. From St Michel I started climbing up the much more pleasant and quieter road towards the Col du Telegraphe in the hope of finding a hotel on the way up. I asked some locals in St Martin du Arc who told me that there was one 3 km up the pass so I climbed on as far as les Seignieres, the last place I could see on the map for the next 12km to the road summit. At the village there were only gites and these weren’t in use. I wandered around the building – it was deserted, there weren’t even any beds in the small rooms – not open yet. Asked in the village and was told that the next hotel was in Valloire, 17km distant. As it was already 6.30 there wasn’t much hope of getting there before 2 hours and I didn’t want to cycle that long and face the Galibier tomorrow without a good long rest and relaxation this evening. There was nothing else for it but to turn back. I had spotted a hotel on the way up, just above St Michel so I would try that. For 160FF including breakfast and an evening meal of mayonnaise salmon and salad starter, followed by potatoes cheese hotpot and raw ham followed by cheese and biscuits and ice cream for a further 60FF this was very good value!
Wednesday 21st June
St Michel de Maurienne (Col du Telegraphe) to Briancon
computer: 1775 - 1816, 41 miles.
Michelin map 77, pages 7,8,18
Today was only 41 miles but it was one of the toughest days riding of my tour. I left the hotel at 8.15, not eating much for breakfast – I took it with me for later. These last 2 days I’ve had enough of the dry rolls for breakfast. I need a fry up! I ate 2 yoghurts and put another 2 in my bag under the table. Had the meusli and milk, 1 roll with apricot jam and plenty of orange juice and coffee. I was brought another flask of coffee, which I dutifully downed. I had the two yoghurts and a couple of rolls and jam later at a long stop in les Verneys. Climbed up past where I reached yesterday evening, the view back up the valley towards Mondane show the crowded arteries, so glad I left that behind. After the last village it was steady progress with no stops through the pine and spruce woods and past more roadworks – resurfacing the road for the Tour de France which comes from the south and on into Switzerland over the Izoard (the bridge must be completed by then) to Briancon, Lauteret, Galibier, Telegraphe, Madeleine, Courchevel, Roselend, Chamonix to Fribourg and on into Germany. The road summit was reached in 1.1/2 hours from St Michel. The final 2km is above the tree line so I had a really good view of where I came from, a long. Long way down. It’s possible to make out Hotel Belvedere. Along the terrace, one last gasp and I reached the road summit of Col du Telegraphe, 1566m, (Col number 13) without a stop, just for the agony of it, 7.1/2 miles in 1.1/2 hours so I must still be fit enough for this trip! I was slowed down a bit by the roadworks and the tar that was sticking to my tyres in the heat and acting like glue on the road and adding chippings into my tyre treads. I was squelching my way up the pass, really annoying but adds a new verb to the climbing experience. Have you ever squelched your way uphill? I had black hands rubbing the chipping off while pedalling, not an easy art! I walked to the viewpoint when I reached the road summit, photos taken then the short descent to Valloire, announcing it’s approach with signboards of all that’s on offer in the village. I had a quick look round, nothing needed as I was well stocked up with food and drink. I pushed on up the start of the Galibier to les Verneys where I ate the rest of my breakfast. The stark beauty of the pass began after that point, a gentle up along the Valloirette, past Bonnenuit (goodnight!) where the road became steeper and narrower with a fantastic backdrop of deep blue sky behind the rock and shale of la Haute Pare, 2373m guarding the way up the pass. I stopped for a while at Plan Lachat where I was confronted with the view of the sudden road climb ahead, looking up to where it disappeared over the cleft a long way up I realised this is a biggie, after the Stelvio, Iseran and the Gavia this was high! Ate an orange, took some pictures and physced myself up for that long road ahead, changed to bottom gear for the grind up the pass. There were plenty of cyclists carrying no weight overtaking me but one did me a real big favour, as he was slower than the others. He became my anchorman for 6km as I kept a respectable distance behind and followed him until just before the final hairpins to the road summit. It took me four hours to get from Valloire to the col but I enjoyed every minute of it. It was a real challenge from the first hairpin to 2km short of the cluster of 8 hairpins to the road summit through the walls of snow piled up either side of the road. I made it up those last 8 twisters without stopping but it’s the long straight arduous lengths between the turns that wear me out – but what a challenge!
Half way up from Plan Lachat are a few buildings; outside was a sign advertising local honey. I thought it a strange place to be selling it; bees don’t live this high, do they? Part way up the final climb I passed the tunnel that’s closed for repairs. Workmen were busy both sides – this is for the motorists getting fat in their cars thinking they’ve conquered the Alps when they’ve got their personal stomach alps to conquer – bike it, so much more interesting! I reached the summit of Col du Galibier, 2645m, (Col number 14) There was a flurry of cyclists at the
road summit. All perched like birds on the narrow ledge. There’s not much room for many cars, which is a blessing! It makes for a quiet pass, as others can’t stop, especially when so many cyclists and bikers hug the available space no bigger than our back garden. There were the birds, all twittering in their many languages – French, German, Dutch, Swiss – and just me – no other English. An old Frenchman waved me in as I arrived at the top and told me that he and his wife had cycled 80km around the Galibier area one day. He later told me that was about 50 years ago; looking at him I don’t think he’d make it now – his proud personal achievement – and mine! A French cyclist offered to take my photo, he took two. We talked for a while, he of the buckteeth who looked like a comedian in a Harry Enfield sketch – might have been him. Well, that was the agony and ecstasy of the Col du Galibier and I was so happy to be there. I had heard that the weather had been really wet a week ago, so wet that it would have made mountain cycling miserable. Two weeks after I arrived home I was watching the Tour de France on TV and saw incredible pictures of the Galibier in very icy conditions. It was well below freezing and the road signs at the summit were frozen over. When I was there they were too hot to touch. It’s not only at home that we have peculiar weather. On the whole of my tour this year I never felt one drop of rain and it was warm – sometimes hot – every day. I rode down 1km to the south end of the tunnel, dropping to 2556m, nearly 100m in 1km. At that point is a round monument to the man who founded the Tour de France. On the race day here in July a remembrance by the tour organisers was made here. I saw the shop opposite which proudly declared, “We speak English” so I decided to go and try it out. “Non parle Anglais” she said – what a let down! Her colleague did though. I bought a cowbell) and a small glass in the shop here and had an iced tea. (Ruth will like it “What! Not another cowbell!”)– more weight to carry up the next pass. Joked with the lady about it jangling in my bag and could she put paper around the clanger? On the way down the pass I reflected on my latest conquest, after the Iseran and the Bonette this will be the greatest climb achieved since the Stelvio and the Gavia last June. The route down is steep most of the way. It’s all open moorland with great views of the valley below en route to Briancon. I cheated a lot on arriving at the road junction at Col du Lautaret, 2058m, (Col number 15) as it was all down the mountain for me. After a wash, and pit stop, photographs and a quick look around the many buildings here, totally unlike its big brother 1936ft higher. Careered down through avalanche shelters on a more or less straight road to Le Monetier les Bains, a spa town. I finally bought a French Telecom card at the post office here for 48.60FF – a funny amount! Now II could phone home. I continued on to Briancon from alpine to valley scenery along the Serre Chevalier then into the only place of any size on the route before Menton. I avoided the new town in the valley with Macdonalds on a busy roundabout and headed up for the old walled town following signs for the tourist information office, arriving just before they closed at 5.30. The office is just inside the walls at the north end of town by the church tower. I was well looked after by a very pretty French girl who was happy to practice her English with a sexy accent. I asked about the bridge that had been damaged south of the Izoard. She told me that it had opened today, what a relief! So the col was open for me to continue on the planned route. She found me a hotel in the old town. The Hotel Auberge de la Paix (and paix you will!) on Rue Porte Meane at 295FF including breakfast. I had a look around the town, took a few photos and phoned Ruth from the wall overlooking the new part of town to the south; she was busy doing school reports. This was the first use of the card; I should have bought this before now! I found a shop on the main street and bought food and drink for tomorrow and some French lager for tonight’s book at bedtime. I went back to the hotel, wrote up the diary in my room with a view. From the window I had a view of the châteaux above the old town and wafting through were lovely smells of cooking from down below, and the welcoming clatter of dishes – I was getting hungry! At 8.45 I went down to the restaurant and enjoyed a green salad with warm soft cheese, followed by entrecote steak medium done and finished with cream caramel. After I ordered, and later after my meal, I went up the steps in front of the hotel to the church area where an all girl band in white were banging away on drums and blowing whistles to a catchy rhythm. After they dispersed I had one last wander. I listened to a guitar group playing around the corner but wasn’t too impressed. It was now 11.00 so called it a night and slept right away.
Thursday 22nd June
Briancon to Barcelonnette
computer: 1816 to 1876, 60 miles. (Indicates 102km on Michelin map)
Michelin maps 77, page 18, map 81, page 8
I ate a really good breakfast for once, getting accustomed to my regime and the heat. Even ate the bread, which was something, now I had plenty of energy for the first climb starting right outside the town, heading south over the Izoard. (Yes it iz ‘zo ‘ard to pedal up.) I paid my bill with a credit card to put off the pain for a while but also just to be certain that my money would stretch until next Tuesday in Nice. The bill came to 387FF but really worth it as I ate and slept well and feeling fully fit again.
I collected my bike from the wine store below the hotel and walked it round past the church and up to the ramparts and cycled out of the north gate at 9.00 and down the hill to the new part of town. It’s a wide circle, anti-clockwise through the busy streets then striking off up the immediate climb on a narrower and quiet road past Fort des Trois Tetes and higher up, Fort du Randouillet. Another 2km up is another fort called Fort d’Anjou. No doubt these were built as a defence from the east in times gone by. It’s steep up at first but the route levels out later, passing pine trees in a wide valley and eventually arrive, after a few downs as well as ups, in Cervieres nestling in the upper valley. The way becomes narrower as the hairpins start above the village. There were a lot of people working the ground in this alpine valley. The old church with its steeple doesn’t seem out of place in the enormous backdrop. A little further up at le Laus I stopped at a lonely café for an ice coke for energy and to cool me down. The girl waiting on seemed totally bored; it would have been good to be able to communicate. From this small village in the trees where there is plenty of footpaths leading out it’s a walker’s paradise. The road leads out and up steeply from here twisting and turning through the trees. Up through the pine forest in numerous hairpins, the air smelt of the pine but later I smelt – roadworks! Yes, this road, too, was being resurfaced for Le Tour. One good thing was that after the smell and the noise left behind I was on a new smooth surface. I’m sure the motorists, bikers and cyclists are very pleased around France when Le Tour hits their locality. The alpine roads are probably resurfaced every year for it, but after the winter conditions it’s probably much needed. At about 3km from the summit the winding road straightens onto a broad upper ledge but still among the trees. Another cyclist who overtook me at Refuge Napoleon, 1km below the pass road summit, followed me. There’s another steep section to be tackled as a final onslaught to the top, 2km and two more hairpins from the Refuge it was open country to the road summit of the Col d’Izoard, 2361m. (Col number 16) I took a photo and got someone else to take a photo of me at the huge stone summit marker. I met an elderly English couple that were saying it was summer solstice yesterday and for the first time for many years the authorities allowed the hippies to dance naked around the Earth Stone at Stonehenge at sunrise. What would the Druids have thought? I would like to have had a look around the Tour de France exhibition up here but it was closed. On with the cag and helmet and started my descent for Queyras. Through some very strange rock formations at Casse Deserte that wouldn’t be out of place in Arizona – huge bizarre pinnacles of dry red stone rising out of the mountain shale. They rise in all sorts of peculiar shapes. The south side of the pass is in complete contrast to the much greener north side and it’s also the geographic meeting point of the greener Northern Alps and the more warmer and barren Mediterranean Southern Alps. The first stop on the way down was on a short stretch on the way up! Here was a cyclists memorial carved into a stone pinnacle of two old time greats, Fausto Coppi and Louison Bobet, of Le Tour fame. From here it was a long way down on a glorious descent in an open landscape to Brunissard then into a green valley following the river Riviere to the road junction where I could see Fort Quayras 2km up the valley. Pondered for a while at this point as I would dearly have loved to have gone on to there and visit Col du Agnel at le Pain de Sucre but this wasn’t to be my bread and sugar today, I would never make it over to Jausiers or Barcelonnette for evening and I really had to be over the Col de Vars today if I was to keep up with my schedule. I reckoned that if went for the pass it would mean having to find somewhere to stay in Vars and then my planned ride for tomorrow, a circuit from and to Barcelonnette wouldn’t be possible. I decided to leave the Col du Agnel for a future time and link it in with an Italian trip coming own from Susa and over the Col d’Izoard again as that pass fascinates me. The Combe du Quayras from Quayras to Guillestre is a fascinating gorge and a steady descent to the village. I went over the repaired bridge that had been washed away in the floods a week ago. The scenery became even more spectacular at Monument du Roy where there was a series of tunnels in the white rock along a road that hugs the mountainside above the deep gorge. There were plenty of cyclists doing the route along the Quayras. This is a good bike ride without a great deal of climbing covering the route from Guillestre to the end of the road at Petit Belvedere du Viso, 45km away. One chap I saw was on a recumbent pulling a low load trailer, which looked very interesting. I’m not so sure – to my mind – if it would be suitable for a climb up the mountain roads, but then I’ve never had a go on one. I took a detour into Guillestre at 2.15 to stock up from a supermarche and buy more camera film. After a short break I was back onto the Rue des Grandes Alpes for the last pass of the day. It was really getting hot and I thought I must take it easy. It’s a long grind taking me 3.1/2 hours from 3.00 until 6.30 to reach the Col de Vars, 2109m. (Col number 17). The way up the pass from the north resembles an Austrian pass with its smooth road complete with road-side markings for cyclists and neatly mown grass, so unlike the usual passes seen in France from Geneva. There are water pumps in the field. The whole scene brought back memories of the lower Grossglockner. It was a long, hot ride through the upper pastures to reach the first of the Var villages. This can be seen from a few kilometres to the north but it’s a long climb to reach it, deceiving because the approach to the first village is down the mountainside for a kilometre, an unforgivable descent after a long slog up! The Var villages then seemed to pass in quick succession until I reached the last one, Var le Claux, a ski resort below the pass. Everything was closed except the tourist office at 5.00. Had a quick look around for information on the area and had a swill at the ornate fountain on the wide pavement in front. I filled up my water bottles, had a few biscuits and mounted again for the final attack on the col itself. The climb up is easy from here as the road is more level, a comfortable ride away from the resort and its wide road and building sites to a more natural setting of open moorland. I could see Refuge Napoleon ahead, the second one today. These are so named because this was the route to Paris that Napoleon took when he escaped from Elba. The refuge is not just one building but it has an extension and an annex and is a welcome site by the lake. From here the road summit is in sight and is an easy uphill to the restaurant at the top. There was nobody to take a photo of me at the summit marker so I took a close up of it next to a tacky souvineer stall, and of the memorial to Napoleon’s march to Paris on the opposite side of the wall. I had a large beer at the café to celebrate my last achievement of the day, and relaxed for an hour. The descent to St Paul was superb, great views of the mountains around and the valley below. At St Paul I had a decision to make on whether to take the road to Col du Larche and tomorrow over the Col de la Lombarde for the Bonnette or head for Jausiers along the valley. I was glad I chose to go south. The road from St Paul, a sleepy country village at the bottom of the pass with a large church, to Jausiers is very pleasant and quiet, following the Ubaye river, up a little to Chatelard then down, through Pas de Gregoire and into Jausiers. One thing that struck me about the village was the buildings. The majority are in Mexican style. A few centuries ago there was Spanish influence from Barcelona and local men went there and on to Mexico by sea to earn their fortune. The buildings were built to remember their exploits. I decided against staying in Jausiers even though it was handy for the Bonnette. Tomorrow I would do a circuit south of Barcelonnette so cycled on another 5 miles and booked in for 2 nights at the second hotel tried, the Grand Hotel in the main square at 9.00pm). It was getting dark and I was glad to be here before lights were needed. I showered and ate at 10.00 in the restaurant below the hotel. I had lasagne and chips with a carafe of red wine followed by a chocolate crepe, very filling! Satisfied and full I slept at midnight, the end of a perfect day.
Friday 23rd June
Barcelonnette – Colmars - St Martin d’Entraunes - Barcelonnette
computer: 1876 to 1946, 70 miles.
Michelin map 81, pages 8,9
This ride took me 11 hours for a mere 70 miles – 6mph! Anyway, nobody’s counting and I enjoyed myself! This circular tour took in three of the highest French cols. In the heat of the day they were particularly tough. I ate plenty for my breakfast and had the joy of being able to leave most of my weight safely in the room while I rode out with one pannier packed with as little as possible. I glided down to the junction of the Allos and Cayolle roads, over the stream on the Allos road and began the climb up the pass on an anti-clockwise circuit back to Barcelonnette. It took me 3 hours to arrive at Col d’Allos, 2250m, (Col number 18) at 12.30. There are no cafes on this route and the one that was at the top of the pass is no more, it’s only the shell of the building which is open to look round and at the time of my visit the building still had boxes of materials in there so it could be that it hadn’t been closed for long. I was so glad that I had plenty of food and drink, as I really needed it in the heat and the climb. I counted 34 twists of road going up the north side of the Allos. On the first part of the climb the road runs parallel to the Gorges du Bachelard on the road to the Cayolle, but much higher up. I could see the cars and cyclists on the road a long way down. That part of the route wouldn’t see me for another 9 hours! I stopped for a while near the Pont du Fau where a tall three-arched road bridge spans the stream running down to the Bachelard. Opposite is another mountain called le Pain de Sucre (bread and sugar!) as at Col Agnel – I gazed for a long while past here looking for the valley gap at Bayasse towards the Bonnette as a guide book says it can be seen from this point – I must have been looking in the wrong direction as I couldn’t see any activity up there. The Allos road then swings away to the west in a huge loop to the village of Agneliers with its white church perched on the mountainside. Most of this route is very green but not too many trees to obstruct the views from the road. After the loop the scenery became wilder, the trees were left behind and it’s open alpine country to the col. With the sound of a jangling of cowbells for company and the screeching of marmots and only the occasional motorist I tackled the final hairpins to the barren summit with some steep bits near the top. I saw the welcome site of the café but was soon disappointed when I reached it. The only things in there were boxes containing faded and curled up postcards and other junk but no ice cold drink! People sitting outside shouted ‘ferme’ as I entered but then seeing’s believing! Just around the corner is the top of the col. After a brief wander up here looking at the alpine plants and taking in the view all around I descended steeply to la Foux d’Allos. The nearest café was in a round building in the deserted ski resort but I didn’t bother. Like the other ski resorts that I passed through there were not many people about. Stands to reason really, skiing on grass is a hard act to perfect. Down further to la Baume where the road is less steep and kept going all the way to Colmars, arriving at 1.00pm. The whole way down is gorgeous valley scenery following the Verdon. It would have been tempting to follow it to the Grand Canyon du Verdon but that will have to wait for a future year. The approach to Colmars from the north is gaurded by Fort de Savoie, which once guarded the border when Savoy was a kingdom. From there I had a look inside the walled town with its very narrow passageways. I decided against having a meal at a very pleasant outdoor café but washed and cooled down for a while there before looking for the way up to the Col des Champs. I doubled back a little way as the road begins opposite the castle. On the way down I hadn’t noticed the turning as I was taking in the view of the building. The route up consists of a series of ten or so hairpins as the road winds up steeply through the trees from Colmars. I reached a wooden café at Ratery on the first piece of level ground but it was closed today. On the way up at about 5km from the summit there are a few water gullies crossing the road, and again at about 3 km from the top. These are quite dangerous if you’re not aware of them and call for caution. At about 6km from the top of the pass there are road markings indicating the distance from the col at 500m intervals. There’s a little confusion though, as there are other more optimistic figures crossed out. These are to be ignored! I eventually reached what I thought was the top as I could see it from way down below, however it is only a rise around the mountain ledge and over into the green landscape a bit further on where the true col lies. It seemed at first that the road would have a tunnel through the mountain, as I couldn’t see how the road would negotiate the black slate area where the false summit is, but on rounding it the way became obvious. At about 500m further on I came to the top of the Col des Champs, 2087m, (col number 19) at 3.15 and took a picture with the de la Frema, 2747m, in the background. I waited to see if a cyclist or anybody(!) would appear to take a photo of me. Sure enough, a few minutes later appeared a lone cyclist who I flagged down and asked if he would take my picture with the road summit sign I soon found out that he was Gerald Cowham from Huddersfield and also a member of the illustrious Ordre des Col Durs! It was quite a surprise meeting a fellow member, especially at the top of a pass and halfway round too. He was doing the same circuit in reverse and also doing the Grandes Alpes tour in reverse – from Nice to Geneva. This really was a chance meeting that would have just been a wave and a ‘bonjour’ if we had passed on the climb. We agreed to meet later back in Barcelonnette and share our stories. We parted at 4.00 in our opposite directions. Gerald was looking forward to the freewheel down the Allos and getting a drink at the top from the café before his descent – I told him the bad news! It’s a long sweep down the valley to St Martin through barren country with Val Pelens prominent then through alpine meadows to the small white church by the side of the road at St Jean. This looked interesting but it was closed. There was nothing to eat or drink in St Martin and I was beginning to run out of both! The ride up the next col was easy as far as Entraunes where the road immediately began to climb. I was hoping to get a cold drink at the village hotel, but yes it was closed! I only had a little water left and I had eaten everything – the weather was still hot! The valley is left behind at Entraunes and the climb up to the col really begins with a series of twists in the road and rising rapidly. It’s fantastic scenery; looking back down the valley and steadily on into the unknown as the trees above block the sight of the road to the col. I went through a rock tunnel at Pont St Roch and was desperate for liquid. I resorted to chewing gum as my only way to keep my mouth moist and some semblance of eating. A mirage appeared at Estenc where in front of me I could see a hotel open and people sitting drinking under parasols (or were they only sunning themselves?). I wanted some – desperately! I bought an ice-cold coke for energy and to quench my thirst – I needed more but water would do. That was the best 13FF I had spent all day – come to think of it I don’t think I’ve spent anything else today, how could I? All the shops, cafes and hotels are closed along the route! This hotel was the first place open since Colmars. I filled my bottles with water from inside. I found out after another km that the lake behind was the source of the Var so that water was the best! This stuff gets bottled and sold. I had best spring water and it kept me going the rest of the way up the col. I continued on through alpine meadows of small birch or larch trees but then the climb breaks through into really barren country. I could see the rock tunnel at Pont St Roch way down below as I began the final ascent of the steep road up the wall of the mountain, spiralling up dizzily to reach Col de la Cayolle, 2326m, (Col number 20) It was terrifying at this time of the day but I knew that once over this it was then down the mountain all the way back to Barcelonnette. I asked a German motorist, in my best German, to take my picture at the summit marker. He obliged and asked me where I came from. He said there were very few English around the French Alps. It was true, today I had only seen one English van climbing up this pass, no others all day. I put on my cag and helmet, adjusted my back brake and then hurtled headlong down the pass at 7.30. I covered the 30km down to Barcelonnette in an hour so, arriving back at 8.30. When I asked Gerald later how long it took him he said 8.00. Well – I enjoy looking at the scenery! I tried to look for the Bonnette at the other end of the valley from Bayasse, over the Col de la Moutiere but again I couldn’t see anything. On the way down the pass there’s a great view from a bridge back up the mountain from where a torrent of the Bachelard was hurtling down. I took a photo from the bridge. From here on the way is through the Gorges du Bachelard. This was the road I could see from way above on the ascent of the Allos this morning. I made fast progress through the gorges, which are – well- gorgeous. The river is very fast flowing through a narrow ravine, the road descending all the way for the 16km length of the gorge. It was a wonderful experience and probably one of my favourite cycling experiences, and that’s saying some. It was a real treat to have the road to myself and enjoy the wildness of the river, the white rocks and noise of the torrents. The road widens just south of Uvernet. The gorges were now behind me as I entered into familiar countryside, still pelting away down the road to get back for 8.30 as I said to Gerald that I’d meet him then. I showered and walked over to his hotel, this was the hotel I tried first yesterday but it was full. Gerald told me on the col that this hotel was very good value (Hotel du Cheval Blanc, 12 rue Grenette – 04400 Barcelonnette). The rooms are homely and comfortable and the food is generous so I decided to try the restaurant out. It really was good! I had a very large mixed salad starter followed by a huge steak with chips and loads of veg and more was offered later. With this I had to have a litre of red wine! As the food content was so good the wine didn’t have much effect on my head! We both sat in the restaurant not recognising each other as we both looked so different without helmets and lycra. I imagined him to be thinner and younger. He imagined me to have grey hair, as the only hair outside of the helmet was the grey sideburns. I really must get some Grecian 2000! We walked over to the bar of my hotel as the restaurant was now closing. He bought some beers and we shared our cycling experiences until 1.00am about O.C.D., his month away from his architect job and many other things. We exchanged phone numbers as he expressed an idea of meeting around Holme Moss or the Cat and Fiddle sometime in the future. It would be a real anti-climax from this area but I’ll take up the offer. I had to excuse myself as it was getting very late and tomorrow I was going to conquer a giant, the biggest one in the Alps!
Saturday 24th June
Barcelonnette to Isola
computer: 1946 to 1988, 42 miles
Michelin map 81, pages 8,9,10
Today was the big one, the awesome Cima de la Bonette, 2860m, (Col number 23) First of all though; the Col de Restefond and Col de la Bonette had to be reached. I paid my dues but didn’t leave until 9.30. It was a late night last night! I needed a rest after a long day in the saddle yesterday. I needed plenty of energy for today so decided to take it easy to begin with and treat the big one with great respect. For however long it would take me I would reserve my energy to ensure I get there intact! I cycled away from Barcelonnette towards Jausiers and took a photo looking back towards le Sauze above Barcelonnette and adjusted my brakes out. I wouldn’t be needing those for at least 5 hours! I reached la Chalannette, 5km up, drank and had some gum to keep my mouth moist. I continued round the hairpins to le Rochas. There was no respite here, nor were there any places along the climb to buy food or drink. The next place to buy food was at St Etienne de Tinee, 50km from Jausiers. Today I was well stocked for for a good distance. The rule for not getting the ‘bonk’ is to eat and drink little but often, especially in the heat. I reached the cascade appropriately called le Pis. There was a snack bar here. I write ‘was’ – there isn’t now! I thought that the next set of hairpins above the lake was reaching for the Col de Restefond. How wrong I was, it was quite a bit further up yet! After the lake came the hairpins then another series above that which brought me over the side of le Mourre Haut (2872m), a dramatic and awesome climb where I was relieved see the forts marking the top of the first col over another rise to Col de Restefond, 2692m, (Col number 21). I took a picture of the old military forts, which were once a defence against the Italians. From here it’s a short rise up the military road , past the road going down to the Sestriere and past some WW2 defences (would the Germans really come this way?), and up to the Col de la Bonette, 2715m, (Col number 22). The pass is just a shoulder of rock where there’s a shrine and on the other side, on this side a plan of the tourist circuit anti-clockwise around the mountain to reach the Giant.
A group of cyclists came speeding down from the col to Restefond. On the approach to the col the road around the mountain and up to the Cima de la Bonette is clearly visible and I could clearly see what I was in for. That’s a 1 in 3 up there! It’s like looking at a huge coal stack; well it is a surface of black slate. The Col de la Bonette is the natural pass, geographically there is no need for the Cima de la Bonette as its just a road around the mountain from the col and back again on the opposite shoulder. The ‘coal stack’ is a huge mountain encircled by its 1500m one-way road. The highest point of the road is around the back where there’s a small car park and a boulder by the side of the road with a plaque in it commemorating Napoleon III. I was met at the top by a group of Swedish cyclists who marvelled at the weight I carried and a few of them had a go lifting the bike! They were clearly impressed (or incredulous) that I could shift so much weight up a mountain and still riding at the end of it, especially up that last steep section. I asked them to take my photo at the boulder, they agreed as long as I took a few photos of them as a group with their cameras. (They said ‘say cheese’ I said ‘say orga!’ One of them had a Tour de Suisse cycle bottle like mine. It turned out he also got it from the race in Switzerland the same year. It just goes to show cyclists are the same the world over! The path up to the viewing platform starts from the boulder and winds up to the top, a 15- minute walk at 2860m, 58m above the road. From the top it’s an unrestricted view in all directions as there are no mountains higher in the near distance. I took photographs of the whole panorama. I spent ages up here taking in the view. Walking back down the path to my bike I put on my cag and helmet and adjusted my brakes in. Down to Col de Raspaillon or Col des Granges Commune, 2505m, (Col number 24) which is a bit of a cheat really as I never climbed it. If I cycled the other way I would have known about it! I took a picture of the plaque on a stone commemorating the road builder’s achievement when the road was opened in August 1959. There’s a fantastic mountain view east from here, looking over to Des Trois Eveques (2922m) and the ridge between Jausiers and the Col de Larche. Looking back in the other direction the Cima de la Bonette was looking even more like a coal stack. With a bit of imagination I could have been in Doncaster! A little bit further on the Tinee valley below could clearly be seen. From here, down the pass a little further and I came to Camp des Fourches – a deserted army village. The Bonette road plummets steeply down to Vens where there’s a cascade. At this point the road levels out a bit. I took in the scenic route speeding down the upper Tinee valley through the gorge to St Etienne de Tinee. Gerald told me to try the Sestriere route from Col du Restefond that comes out at the other end at Pont Hauf above St Eteinne de Tinee – looking at the junction of roads at both ends in passing I could see that it’s a possibility for some future year – perhaps do a circuit of the Bonette in an anti-clockwise direction. From St Etienne the route is up for a short way then a plummet down along a wide road from Auron that twists down to form a wide but not a busy road all the way to Isola where I spent the night. I arrived at 5.30. I booked in at the only hotel and had a swim, sauna, jacuzzi and a hammam in the facility that was built for a previous year’s winter Olympics in Isola 2000 that also included Isola at the foot of the Col de la Lombarde. For 25FF (£2.50) I enjoyed the lot before re-arranging my panniers for morning. I was ready for tea in an old style pizzeria place just down the narrow town street from the hotel. I had a seafood salad and a quattro stagionie pizza and a bottle of red wine, finished off in my room later. I had a look around the village in the dark before retiring, crashing out at 11.30.
Sunday 25th June
Isola to La Bollene Vesubie, computer: 1988 to 2050, 62 miles
Michelin map 81, pages 10,20, map 84, page 19
Having left one of my panniers with most of the weight in at the hotel bar, I said I would be back to collect them 3 hours later. I had a late breakfast, two coffees and 3 croissants. I was presented with a full sized French stick but couldn’t possibly eat that so opted for the croissants and warm currant bread, which I had with butter – that was enough. Petit dejenuer always seemed to cost a standard 30FF everywhere in a hotel. Exited the hotel at 9.00 to climb the last +2000 metre col of this trip, the Col de la Lombarde, (Col number 25) and the Italian border. Looking up the narrow gorge that formed the lower valley of the col I could see the narrow stretch of sky above was cloudy. The deep ravine for the first three kilometres keeps any sun away as the road twists up the narrow passage called de la Guerch in-between the mountain walls, criss-crossing over bridges above the torrent plunging down from the mountain. This would deter all but the determined from going to the top – especially if you have no intention of going over! After 3 km the gap becomes wider and there are 4 one way systems along the road to ease the flow of traffic in the winter going to and from Isola 2000 thirteen km away. There wasn’t much traffic this time of the year though. It became easier further up where the climb up the gorge changes to a more level playing field along a more alpine open valley. There’s nowhere to buy anything even in Isola 2000, two and quarter hours later. It being a winter resort most places was closed for the season. Just before the town there’s a very wide road stretch into the town, presumably for the skiers and coaches to park. Isola 2000 consists of high- rise blocks but very little sign of life. There was nothing open. I had read in a guidebook that Isola itself, the old town in the valley, was dying and that most of the younger people had left to find work elsewhere. It seems that out of the winter season Isola 2000 is no better.
The best section of the col is above Isola 2000, the road is narrow in complete contrast to the area just below. I was back on a country lane again. It seems that the winter skiers don’t come this way. The rest of the climb to the road summit took an hour. It’s very steep most of the way up the 5km. The weather was cold and cloudy which helped me in my climb to get up there a bit quicker. The weather wasn’t so bad to spoil the view though. It was overcast as I scrambled up along the craggy route with its many twists and turns. I got an Italian motor biker to take photos of me at the col (3185 – 3189). My speedo reached the 2000 mark on the down just below the top which was very fitting as I was on my way back to Isola 2000. The marmots were alive and screeching as they dived in and out of their hidey-holes in the scrub. The top of the pass is very barren with no road marker indicating the top of the pass, just a footpath sign and an Italian war memorial. It was very cloudy and uninviting on the Italian side and I was glad I made a decision not to go over the Col de Larche from Col de Vars then south over the Col de la Lombarde. It took me half an hour to get down after the 3 hours going up, my last +2000m pass for this year, down through the Guerche Gorge. Was it worth it? – yes! On the side of the road on a hairpin bend on the way down is a board with the words; ‘Vous etas pries de lasser cet endroit dans l’etat ou vous souhaiteriel le trouver en entrant’ – and I must find out what that means sometime! Back in Isola at 12.30 I had a couple of coffees then I asked for my bags, which were under a nearby seat. The people in the hotel wanted to know why I was taking the bags – because they’re mine – prove it – I stayed here last night and you showed me to the room, don’t you recognise me? – no. She talked to the man who served me my breakfast this morning. I was so glad he recognised me! I rearranged the panniers to ensure equal weight then rode downhill through the Gorges de Valabres against a strong wind, heading south. This is still the valley of the Tinee. I rejoined the Rue des Grandes Alpes at St Sauveur-sur-Tinee. There are a number of pillboxes on the east side of the river along here, facing up river. These form the remains of the Maginot line defence system running the length of the French border. At La Bollinette I was hoping to follow the Route des Grandes Alpes to St Martin de Vesubie and on to Col de Turini but the way from here was blocked until 5.00pm because of a bike race 9km up the road at Valdeblore. Snookered by my own! I carried on down the valley to Levens. There’s fantastic gorge scenery on the way south, especially the white rocks and clear water at the Tinee gorges just off the main Nice to Digne main road. There was plenty of people swimming and rock climbing along here at the Gorges de Mescla. It was interesting to see the medieval village of Bairols perched high on the cliff to the west overlooking the Tinee valley. Suddenly I was back in the madness of traffic at the northern extent of the roads around Nice at Mescla and I wanted to get off this as soon as possible. The long tunnel was a nightmare. I could see why the Route des Grandes Alpes takes a turn off further north from here. The junction at Mescla is not only 3 roads that meet at a very busy tunnel entrance but the lower Tinee meets the Var here and to top that the private railway running from Nice to Digne crosses at this point. I got on to the quieter road running parallel and just above the main road down to Nice, signposted Vesubie along the Defile de Chaudan and along to Pont Durandy where I had a choice to make – go south for Nice or get back to the remainder of the Rue des Grandes Alpes at Lantosque. Stopped for a coke at the café on the junction just before the girder bridge where the road rejoins the busy road into Nice. I headed north up the gradual rise of the Gorges de la Vesubie at 4.30. I made rapid progress along here. There was a steady stream of traffic coming south, maybe from the cycling event at Valdeblore, but hardly anything heading north. The mild wind pushed me up the 400metre height difference to Lantosque. Halfway along I passed the colourful houses of St Jean la Riverie on its prominent rocky position on a curve around the Vesubie flowing through the village at the bottom of the white cliffs. Lantosque is an old fortified town on a hill. I bought a few cans of orange and chocolate at a small shop on the cobbled streets at 5.00 and asked about any hotels in the area. I was told to try Roquebillirie 5km away but I wasn’t heading that way. I asked if there are any hotels on the Col de Turini, and was told there wasn’t anywhere to stay along there. I saw a hotel sign at the road junction at les Combes indicating the 2- star Hotel Park 2km up the pass. I arrived there at 5.30 after tackling the woody lower hairpins of tomorrow’s first col. I really had enough when I got there. ‘Cheesed off!’ said the French manager. He had 2 waitresses from Cork to teach him good English slang. They were studying French and spending a year working in France. I went down to restaurant after a shower and reorganising for tomorrow. I enjoyed a salad starter followed by a well done (bein cuit – byang kwee – as in tres bein – very good – goodly cooked!) entrecote steak, veg and chips. The other waitress was French and was frantic when she found out she had to serve me. The 2 girls from Cork looked on and smiled when I tried to tell her what I would like but she couldn’t understand and my French is non existent. I should have known better than to ask “zhehmerrew seur la terrass” – I’d like it on the terrace. That made her really exasperated. I also asked for the time (l’uhr) instead of for water (l’eau - l’err) She looked at her watch to tell me the time and I was confused. I suppose I have to learn somehow even if it is the hard way. She went back to the Cork girls (they told me later) saying “Oh help! There’s an Englishman in there and he’s asking me to explain the menu” They told her to use sign language! Later I went for a walk along the hotel grounds at dusk and up the hill into the village of la Bollene Vesubie. The road does a few twists through the village but the path up steps is more direct and crosses the same road a few times before coming to the main square. Most of the houses are painted cream, a pretty village that marks the beginning of the pass. On the way back there were many fireflies, glowing blue lights along the path, as well as the sound of crickets. I walked slowly back to the hotel and had another talk with the girls from Cork. They had problems with the language as French here is spoken with an Italian inflection. At one time this area of France was Italian. I had an early night for once at 10.30
Monday 26th June
La Bollene Vesubie to Menton, computer: 2050 - 2106, 56 miles
Michelin 84, pages 19,20
I left the hotel quite late at 9.15 after a lie in and a long breakfast. I was trying to teach 2 schoolboys some English before they went off to school. It’s a long hard trip up the Col de Turini and it was so hot today! There’s no doubt this is Mediterranean climate. The familiar screeching of marmots is replaced by the constant clicking of crickets everywhere. Although I’m so near I can never see them. This col should be called ‘The Col du Tyranny’ – hot? - I was really sweating up here and it took me the whole morning to reach the col! There are some very steep sections of road through the trees as the road winds it’s way up relentlessly. I was so glad I didn’t meet any sheep being led along the road as seen on a postcard of this pass. That would have finished me off!
There’s nowhere to buy any food or drink after la Bollene Vesubie until the Col is reached. The climb from the village comes to a point where there’s a wonderful view of the village below and the area around Lantosque in the distance. Through a tunnel and up through the Forest of Turini, along many twists and turns in the road with great views down when there’s no trees in the way. I had an iced coke at the top, which was also an excuse to have a really good wash in the restaurant after that hot ride! This climb compares very well with the sauna I had in Isola. Took a couple of pictures at the road summit of Col de Turini, 1607m, (Col number 26). At 12.30, on with helmet and cag for the long descent to Sospel. Took short stops at Moulinet and Notre Dame de la Menour. From the north side this appears as a church on a rock joined by an arched causeway but going past it and descending the pass further it is seen as rather more than just a church. In times past this would have been a lookout point guarding the upper pass and further into France from enemies to the east. The church is a wonderful vantage point overlooking the Gorges du Piaon further down. Long sweeps down through the white cliff gorges that end before Sospel in tamer valley scenery. I didn’t go into the town at this point but took the road for Nice for two smaller cols. It was really hot on the climb away from the valley and around the bulk of Fort Suchet high on a hill over the valley opposite. South of the Col de Turini is really uncomfortable for serious cycling in the oppressive Mediterranean climate. The short ascent of Col St Jean, 642m, (Col number 27) is dominated by the bulk of the fort – and also an annoying rotovator noise coming from a field that could be heard for miles around as the climb up is hemmed in by hills around. The top can be seen from a long way down. Once there, there’s a slight downhill then up again through woods and few hairpins just below the next col. Workmen were repairing the road and the barriers. Le Tour was also passing this way. I reached the road summit Col de Braus, 1000m, (Col number 28). There is a restaurant at the road summit that seems to be popular with open top sports car drivers. At 3.00, stayed for about 10 minutes to see the view and wondered about going further by climbing the Col de la Able but now time was pressing so soared down to Sospel in 20 minutes. The old town bridge with its tourist office in the central building on the bridge and the Italian style house overlooking the river are interesting to see. I went 2km up the Col de Brouis but it was so hot and I really wanted to get to Menton in good time to find somewhere to stay so I gave up, back down to Sospel and took the road over the Col de Castillon for the final descent of the day to Menton and the sea. It was 4.15 and hot! I had to change my shorts because of the sweat then continued up a sort but arduous 7km of Mediterranean landscape with plenty of crickets for company until I saw the small castle on the hill announcing the top of the Col de Castillon, 706m, (Col number 29). The road over the Castillon runs parallel with a new road from Sospel, lower down in the valley, but nowhere near as scenic, that joins up with this road south of the new village of Castillon with it’s church part the way down the pass. I took a last look at the mountains behind me, the Turini in the distance. The reward for climbing up the Col de Castillon in cricket season is to emerge from the short tunnel at the top to a superb view of the road as it winds down the mountain to Menton and the blue sea in the distance. The end of the Rue des Grandes Alpes is now all before me. It’s a dramatic feeling after all the mountain roads to be descending down to sea level. Menton from up above looks different from its coastal perspective. Here was the climatic conclusion of the Rue des Grandes Alpes. The long stretch down to the coast goes on for 8km, a long and steady glorious drop from mountain to Med. It’s like flying! The only problem was the nearer I came to Menton the busier the traffic became. The new village of Castillon was halfway down the mountain. I took a look at the view from here then descended into busy Menton at 6.00pm under the huge autoroute viaduct that spanned the valley on tall supports. I was into the very busy dual carriageway leading straight to the casino on the seafront and the very end of the Rue des Grandes Alpes. On reaching the sea it was a physical and spiritual experience that was quite overwhelming, the total satisfaction of achievement having cycled over all the major French Alpine passes from Geneva. With a small ride tomorrow over a couple of minor passes I will have cycled 31 cols, my best ever achievement on a 10-day tour. After a bit of searching up and down this road I found a hotel on the right hand side coming down. This time it had to be a 3-star on the Sospel road that set me back 310FF. It was expensive but I would be hard pressed to find anything cheaper in Menton except for the youth hostel or a grubby back street hotel. I needed some luxury on the last night. I found out the following day that I needed this because of the plane delay the following day. I showered and changed then took my bike for a ceremonial dip in the ocean. As I was wheeling the bike over the pebbles I fell and grazed my hand. This was my only injury on the tour and it had to happen here! I got an Italian to take the photos as I dipped the wheels in the Med. I cycled along to the Italian border and took some more photos then back along the front and found a good pizzeria that was crowded with locals – always a good sign! I had a fish salad and spaghetti with shells and a litre of red wine to celebrate, cost 130FF. From there, feeling sozzled, I rode back to the hotel at 12.30 and went straight to sleep.
Tuesday 27th June
Menton to Nice, computer: 2106 - 2128, 22 miles
Michelin 84, pages 19,20
I had a lie in until 9.00 s it’s a leisurely day today (or so I thought!) I didn’t bother with breakfast at the hotel so instead I shopped at a supermarket for milk, yoghurt, cake and chocolate in la Condamine and ate all except the chocolate on a beach seat at the curve of the bay at Cap Martin. From there I cycled along Cap Martin, up to Basil and down to Roquebrune along a very busy road that Ruth and I have walked in the past, walking from Monaco to Menton. From Cap Martin the road goes down to Monte Carlo with a grand view of the little country but huge buildings along Monte Carlo Bay. It was so hot I was cycling without a shirt, as it was the last day I didn’t think it too risky. It wasn’t a good idea in front of Monte Carlo casino though! Not only was I moved on for being inappropriately dressed but also for riding a bike! I was effluence in front of affluence! The immaculately dressed policeman in his starched white suit buttoned upto his neck and plumed bobby helmet looked uncomfortable. I would have liked to say that he was inappropriately dressed but didn’t have the gall. After la Condamine and a walk along the harbour front, coming down to it without a back brake, a hair- raising experience in heavy traffic, I pushed it up to Monaco. I wanted to see the changing of the guard at the palace but couldn’t get up to the palace with the bike; it was steps only to reach the castle. I’m sure nobody in Monaco would want to take my bike but I didn’t want to leave it. It was more the panniers that I was concerned about as they are easy to remove. I bought an ice- cold coke then I left the little country heading for Cap d’Ail. I turned off the coast road here for Eze village, joining a busy main road after a short climb. This road is dangerous for cyclists! There are too many blind corners where the rock face comes right down to the road. The road avoids Menton and Monaco, eventually joining up with the autoroute before Eze. I stopped just before Eze village to take in the view of the village and church tower on the hill. Eze is well known for Fragonard perfume. Down to the village full of restaurants but no shops to buy a cold drink. I freshened up at a water fountain at the junction of the road for the col. Turned inland again for a very steep 2km climb to Col de Eze 512m, (Col number 30). There was a lot of construction work going on near the top and it meant walking past diggers and overhead cranes on an uneven road but it’s only 15 minutes up from Eze village, a climb from the coast road at Monaco for 1.1/2 hours. The view from the top and the pace of the cornice road from here to Nice is worth the effort! There’s a restaurant at the top but too many lorries from the construction site passing that way was a definite turn off. There was nobody sitting outside! I was glad to be going the other way with that noise behind me. I noticed the ‘Le Tour’ names painted on the road but they were faded. Maybe the riders came up here last year? There are great views down of the coast and inland on the gradual descent to Nice. Then came the last col of the tour, Col des 4 Chemins 321m, (Col number 31) This was a bit of a cheat really as it was all downhill from Col de Eze but it would be steep coming up from Nice. From here there’s a great view of Nice spread out like a map. Most of the city can be seen from this point, as well as the coast from Cap d’Ail and all of Cap Ferrat, the millionaire’s playground. The airport and beyond probably as far as Cannes can be seen over the city, 30 miles away and inland from there to the hills around Grasse – an area to explore some future year. I enjoyed the long descent to Nice but the city is so congested. I arrived at 3.00 and made my way through the main streets to the long promenade where I knew I could bike safely and then follow the coast to the airport. I had a drink in MacDonald’s and sat on a chair above the beach for a long while, snoozing and soaking up the sun, before riding on to the airport at 5.00 along the cycle path on the promenade. This petered out near the airport and I continued along a path rather than cross the busy main road. I wasn’t going to risk any accident at this stage. I’ve had one experience too many of arguing with traffic at airports. One thing I thought about at this point was that the Route des Grand Alpes started for me at Geneva airport along a cycle path down to the city and another cycle path running alongside a Lake Geneva. Now I was on another cyclepath at the end of the tour along the Med. and to Nice airport. It can be said that together with the quieter roads that the Rue des Grades Alpes follows - except the Lanslebourg – St Michael and Castillon – Menton sections – it’s a real cycling experience as to my mind the whole route is made for cyclists just as much as for the motorists. While it’s possible to drive it in 3 days I really only just managed to cycle it in 10 and wouldn’t recommend trying to attempt the route in less days than that. I arrived at the airport at 5.30 and checked in. I said goodbye to the bike and panniers and took what I needed in a black flight bag. I was easily within my limit. The overhead screens showed that my Easyjet flight was delayed by 1.1/2 hours. This was a knock –on effect of the French air traffic controllers strike over the weekend. Departure time was now 9.00pm, not 7.30. I lazed in the sun on the grass between bus shelters and taxi ranks in front of the departure area drop-off point and caught up with some magazine reading that I’d carried round with me for 628 miles! I then went for a meal on the upper floor, spaghetti carbonera, a fish salad and 2 lagers for 130FF. After that I passed through customs and walked along to the duty free. I phoned home with the remaining card credit to say what time I was expected to be in Liverpool then said goodbye to France as I walked for the Easyjet flight home and a wonderful cycling experience that must rate as one of my best ever.
Liverpool Airport to Dutton (!) 2128 – 2146, 18 miles
I arrived in Liverpool at 11.00pm. My bike and luggage came through last of all and I was the last one out through customs as I refitted pedals, turned handlebars, fitted bags and pumped the tyres up. They then closed the doors then I had the problem of getting home. I enquired about trains. The taxi drivers hanging around made enquires for me. It was now 11.30 and I had missed the last train from Garston for Liverpool or Runcorn. I cycled out via Hale as far as Ditton and phoned Ruth up at midnight. I said that I would try for a train from Runcorn, even a sleeper to bung my bike in, if they would let me on for Crewe. I saw the lights of Runcorn Bridge and went over as fast as I could. I was really making good time at this point and if I kept it up I should arrive home by 1.30am. What slowed me down was the maze of roads around Runcorn. I eventually made it to the station but it was closed for the night. I tried the gate at the side but it was locked, and no lights on the platforms. There was now no alternative; I had to bike home. I was so glad it was after midnight and the weather was so good. There was hardly anything on the road but I got very lost in the maze of streets south of Runcorn, then the main roads south of the town. I must have looked a strange sight in shorts and supporting two very wide and heavy panniers but I rode with great determination towards Northwich. I hated these type of roads that aren’t motorways but in daytime they are anathema to cyclists. The incoming slip roads are dangerous where I always go to the left after checking there is no car / lorry roaring down on me from the slip road. This was scary. The exit roads at points, where the sparse traffic was passing me, called for caution. I went to the left on the white hatches and onto the hard shoulder just to be safe. I was really glad when I passed the last factory and out of the Runcorn area, into Vale Royal which was a welcome sight – even though the road was pitch black! I was now approaching Dutton but there was no road lighting. Fortunately there was very little traffic and my bike lights were working OK. This situation was equally dangerous though and I was getting tired. An accident could happen if I lose concentration. I reached a point about 6 miles from Northwich, over half way home at Hill Top Road, Dutton, riding up a small hill that called for strain on the chain (wishing I was enjoying the pain of the train). It developed a squeaky sound when I was going up the Col de Eze, and I thought it was only oil that was needed! Then the unbelievable happened - my chain snapped! This thought had stayed on my mind since seeing that cyclist walking up the Col de Aravis with the same problem. Here was one hill too many – and there can’t be many more on the way home. Since that day I’ve been churning it over in my mind – what if this had happened on an alpine pass? It would have taken me a day to find a town and another day to find a cycle shop – and getting there? – A long, long walk!
It was 1.00am. I tried to fix it with my chain extractor but it split again because it was so brittle. I tried again, rethreading it around the gears but couldn’t grip it against the tension of the rear gear. I then joined it up without rethreading it around the gear jockey wheels but only got a few yards – the chain fell off! There was nothing else for it but to do an ET and phone home, call Ruth to the rescue at 1.30am. She said she had a feeling that something was going to happen so had left the car out in the drive Fortunately I was stranded next to a telephone box and a streetlight so was able to direct her there. I took my bike to pieces and put it by the light. Some people in the houses nearby were wondering what was happening but left me to it. Ruth collected me at 2.30am I put the bike in the car and we arrived home at 3.00am. We both collapsed into bed and I was up at 7.00am for work. What an anti-climax! The end of a great holiday except for the last bit, but then something always happens for me to remember it by!
kevinandruthspeed@talktalk.net