Northern Italy July 2010
Friday 2nd July 2010 Holmes Chapel to Lazise, Lago di Garda
Holmes Chapel London Euston then to Gatwick Airport. I queued up for the very long process and knew how cattle must feel waiting to be milked – it took ¾ of an hour to get the bike and rucksack checked in. The Easyjet flight took 1 hour 37 minutes to reach Milan, a shorter time than being processed at Gatwick. It was 30°C in Milan we were told by the pilot and we would pass over Bognor, Paris, Dijon and Turin. Went for the hire car from Europcar, cost 351€ and 50€ extra as I was driving from Milan to Rome with it. The car was a Fiat Panda. I loaded up the bike, still in the bag and drove out to Rivolta on a minor road as I couldn’t find another road heading east. Eventually this led to Brescia (bypassed) and along the south shore of Lake Garda to Pescharia then up the east side of the lake to Lazise. It was about 20.00 so needed to find somewhere to stay. After unloading I tried to put the bike together and discovered the chain was all ravelled up. A German guy offered to help. He’d just finished his meal and was also on a cycling holiday and had all the tools. We took my chain apart but the rivet came out and couldn’t get it back in again so it was a bike shop job in the morning. I was really pleased with his effort and offered to buy him a drink. He told me there was a bike shop in Pescharia but not sure where it was in the town.
Saturday 3rd July 2010 Lazise to Torbole, Lago di Garda
I asked about a bike shop and relieved to be told there was one nearby just north of the village called Rasmussin 600 metres to the north. He was just opening as I got there at 10.00 – great! He fixed the chain with a new link and also put my bike back together. He said my handlebars were too high for climbing the hills but they’re what I’m used to. Half an hour and 5€ euros less later, I bundled the bike back in the car and headed for my first BIG of the tour, Passo di Telegrafo, number 747. My gearing wasn’t right I discovered. I hadn’t screwed the gear changer back into the frame the whole way resulting in the chain not being able to move to the top ring. It was a struggle to get up and soon fixed this for the next pass. It was very steep and hot but a narrow quiet road up. Later I drove on the north end of the lake to Torbolo then along the Rovereto road but only as far as Nago above the lake then took a right but this was very hard to find and at first took a road for Molo – and came back to the Rovereto road again.
Eventually I find the road for Passo di Nago, BIG 746. From there back to Torbole and across to Riva and the road for Storo and off to the left for Tremalzo, BIG number 748. I parked at the pub at the bottom and enjoyed the ride through the woods to the clearing at the top where there were plenty of other cyclists. From Storo I cycled up Rifugio di Alpo, BIG number 744 to the Alpi at the top where there are a group of houses after the Bondone wooden sign. I drove back to Riva and on to Torbole and stayed the night at a hotel close to the roundabout for the road up to Rovereto. Each pass took approx 2 hours to climb and back down making the day 8 hours cycling and 5 hours driving, starting off at 08.00 and finishing at 21.00. this was my average time each day.
Sunday 4th July 2010 Torbole to Carzano near Strigno
To Rovereto this morning then south east and parked at Ráossi for a 9km climb slowly through Piano (aptly named) to Pian di Fugazze and a much needed café on the right then a turning to the right straight after that, along here for about a kilometre then off to the left on a gradual climb away from this road at a slight tangent then up through woods that gave way to glorious scenery across to the right (west) of the mountain chain. There were many walkers along this quiet narrow lane and after 6 kilometres gradually leading up to Passo di Campogrosso, BIG number 729, and the buildings at the top. Here are a couple of very nice white stone cafes and a hotel and there was an open air Catholic service going on when I reached there – also a barbecue but I couldn’t get a look in even though I tried! I carried on up the pass, now much narrower and quieter off to the left and reached the highest point at a stone house to the left that was also a simple pub. Just before this I placed the BIG sticker on a light blue sign with a view of Pasubio Mountain in the background. It was here where there was fierce fighting in the 1st World War between Italians and Austrians. I almost took the wrong turning as I started a descent south for Recoaro in error. I walked the bike back up as it was too steep to get back on from a standing start. Back down to Pian di Fugazze the same way then to the right a short way then commenced the stony climb up to Passo Porte di Pasubio, BIG number 728. This surface is of white gravel and was very slow progress. Back down later to the car and spotted the church embedded in the rock to the left called Columbia so stopped for photos. From there back into Rovereto then took the road heading for Passo Coe, BIG number 743 from Calliano and through Folgaria. There’s a castle at the bottom of the pass, an open space at the top of the pass. On the left further along at the top past the height pass marker plate where I placed the BIG sticker are a couple of wood cafes. I gave it a miss and rode back down the pass to the roundabout at Folgaria where I left the car. It’s a confusing meeting of roads at this point. Back down to Rovereto and headed north for the turn off for Nomi then followed by the side of the motorway to Aldeno then left the car at Garniga to tackle the wooded road up to the wooden buildings and large beer hut before the road junction then to the right and a gradual up on a wider road to the top of the Bondone, BIG number 706. This can be seen from the road junction and just round that bend to the right suddenly appears the ski resort of Palon at the top of the pass. An added attraction that day was Formula 1 racing cars parked at the road summit plate. I placed a BIG sticker there. There had been a race earlier in the day up to the top of the pass from Sardegna near Trento. In Trento I drove along the Padua road as far as Borgo. I looked for somewhere to stay the night but there was nowhere so drove to Telve at the south foot of Passo Manghen but it was too late in the day to think of cycling up there. I saw a sign in Telve indicating a pension ‘La Rose’ so followed the sign. The narrow lane took me down to Carzano, a kilometre away. I enquired and was directed to it, it wasn’t obvious but eventually there with an hour of daylight left.
Monday 5th July 2010 Carzano near Strigno to Villa Santina (Tolmezzo)
I left the car here and biked up the Manghen Pass, BIG number 707 on a wonderful sunny morning. Most of the way up is wooded and a clearing at top shared with few motor bikers at the small summit. There’s no building up there but there is plate facing south on which I placed the BIG sticker then did an about turn and back down the pass. In the car from Carzano to Casere on the way up to Monte Grappe, BIG number 727. I had to take it easy going up here as the road is narrow with well overgrown tall hedges on both sides. About 2 kilometres from the top the clearing was reached and I came to the stone fort on the side of the hill the round the side of the mountain for a gradual climb up and over. At the top I took the road to the right that is partly gravel but OK to ride. It was about 3 kilometres and I reached a better surface at a point near Cima di Mandria then along to Monte Tomba, BIG number 726 but actually downhill at this point. From there I retraced and back for the car at Casere then came back over the top of Monte Grappe and down to Bassano di Grappe – which I didn’t want to do but the undercarriage hit a small rock on the road near the top and water was dripping out. I feared the worst and drove fast down the south side of the pass to look for a garage in the town below. They were all closed, petrol self service only. I put a finger to the drip and tasted it. I was relieved to find it was water and not petrol escaping. From here along the main road to Tonini and took a right through the tunnel – so glad I wasn’t cycling this. I drove on to Feltre and had the leak checked out a garage at about 4.30. The mechanic told me it was no problem, it was only air pressure. From Feltre to Sedico and took the quieter road north on the way to the Dolomites. I parked at Veran just south of Agordo and cycled the Passo Duran, BIG number 717 and later over the Passo Cibiana, BIG number 718,
Over to BIG 726 then down the main road to Bassano. Left at Sedico for the road north to the Dolomites. From Agordo went over the Duran Pass and Cibiana Pass, put stickers on each. There is a faded one already on the Cibiana summit plate. From there along to Tolmezzo looking for accommodation. None found so drove back to Villa Santina. I found an albergo on the right just past the roundabout.
Tuesday 6th July 2010 Villa Santina to Mendel Pass
BIG numbers 720 and 721. I left the car at Povolaro at a small white tower decked with cycling motifs. The way up to Zoncalon is extremely steep all the way up but one good aspect of the climb is the covering of the trees all the way up except for the final kilometre. The road is narrow but it’s a good surface. It’s a very interesting climb with many photos on boards of Giro d’Italia cyclists every few metres. I must admit to having to walk much of the way so it took me two hours to get up there. Near the top there is a tunnel and just before it a great view to the right, back down the valley. Through the tunnel the road continues up for about another two kilometres and the final hairpins negotiating cattle coming down the road. There was even one cow in the tunnel so had to wait until she ambled out looking for the best grass. At the top there are two ways to go. The way down is the road to the left as the road to the right soon peters out to grass. I went back the same way to return to the car. From there back to Villa Santina and Tolmezzo then north to Paluzza then Ligosullo where I parked the car for the climb up to Monte Paularo. I’ve cycled this road over to Paularo village many years ago and on to Pontebba over Cason di Lanza. Back to the car, Tolmezzo, Ampezzo, Passo di Mauria (also cycled many years ago) and headed north for the Dolomites from Lozzo. Auronzo is very much a tourist town, especially for winter skiing. At Col di Varda I took a right and entered Misurina and took a right and parked the car at a pub on the right and cycled through the toll gates and up to Cima di Laveredo, BIG number 719. The road doesn’t really get steep but ends ingloriously at a car park. It’s a fantastic viewpoint of the mountains and across the valley. I met other cyclists at the top, one especially as he was Spanish so I could share our experiences of the Valeta and l’Angliru. Back down to the car and on to the Dolomites through Cortina to the Grand Sella. I stopped off at Passo Falzarego to take in the view from the white chapel and also later at Passo Pordoi to take photos of the cyclist board and the cross in the field with the Dolomite ridge as a backdrop. From her I took a right and parked at the first lay-by to cycle Passo di Grand Sella, BIG number 712 that is considered the archetypical Dolomite pass – but I think the Cima di Laveredo is even though it’s not in the centre of the Dolomite range. At the top a girl cyclist kindly took my photos and I hers and I really must stop this parting kissing and cuddling when away from home. I bought a 2011 calendar of the Dolomites and a cowbell to join the others at home. From here down to Canazei and Ronch for the last Dolomite conquest before heading west. It was about six kilometres up to Rifuge Gardéccia, BIG number 708 with very steep sections in the centre of the climb and at the end which nearly finished me off! Back to the car and from there drove through Bolzano to Mendel Pass and stayed the night here at the only hotel.
I educated the Italian bartender on what ‘chips’ really meant in England!
Wednesday 7th July 2010 Mendel Pass to Tirano
From Mendel Pass at 08.00 to Palade and Meran 2000, BIG number 702 off the Avelengo road on the road to the Jaufenpass, a turn to the right indicated Avelengo just before leaving the town and before the Tirol stone on the right. Parked the car at the junction and took the Avelengo road then to Mitterberger, not a difficult climb and a great view looking down on Meran. From there on to Val Senales BIG number 699, three tunnels and two sets of hairpins after Unser Frau Maria and again to the dam and on to the top. I parked past the tunnels as there was no way I was going to bike through there. I left the car at Karthaus and took 1 ½ hours up. Back down again and along 7km to Latsch on a quieter parallel road. I left the car at Bad Salt and biked on to BIG number 698 Paradiso, 16 kilometres – 2½ hours. This was a very enjoyable trek through picturesque mountain villages and eventually reaching the alpine lake Zufrittzee. From there up some steep hairpins to reach a hotel then the road goes down to reach an inglorious end in a car park, swinging round to the left. I bought a burger from a stall then back from here to rejoin the car and on to Bolzano via Merano and over the Mendel Pass again. Over this to the Tonale Pass to reach BIG 694, Mortirolo. I left the car above Monno and went back for it again later. The ascent took me 2 hours – possibly more. At the top I placed BIG stickers on both boards, the second board being at the very top shortly after taking the road for Tirano to the left. It’s well wooded up here but a great view down toward Tirano from the second board. Later I descended back for the car and drove back over and down the other side toward Tirano along a thickly wooded narrow lane hoping I wouldn’t meet anything along the way – but I did! A lorry was coming up the other way and the driver wasn’t going to reverse. He indicated a grassy ledge to the right – then a sheer drop! I had panic visions of the car tumbling over the edge. He pointed to his eyes to say he will guide me on to the patch then he remained on the road after passing me to make sure I was back on the road before he carried on up. Embedded in a rock on the outside of a turn was a relief of Marco Pantani with a couple of plaques in the wall. I reached Tirano at 21.00 and it was getting dark. I wanted to contact Mauro Repetti but it would be too late to meet now. I asked the lady at the small hotel reception to phone him then she passed me the phone. He would see me at breakfast in the morning before making his way to work in Sondrio. I phoned Ruth later. She said she had a very nice mail from Mauro! I was at the Albergo Stelvio at the head of the town and by the side of the river and road bridge on entering from Mortirolo.
Thursday 8th July 2010 Tirano to Lake Como and back to Tirano
First night in Tirano, stopping two nights. I met Mauro and Alex for breakfast in Albergo Stelvio at 7.30 and arranged to meet him here this evening at 9.00 p.m. – maybe before. As it was I arrived in Tirano at 8.00 p.m. so had time to wash and change.
Today I drove out of Tirano at 08.30 to below Chiesa in Val Malenco to do another BIG, Val Malenco BIG number 692. I parked the car at the beginning of the slate mines and biked two sets of hairpins before and after Chiesa and along the upper valley. I rode 11 kilometres. The road ends, at an anti-climax, in a dip beyond the scenic village. Just past a hotel on the right the road bends to the right and abruptly ends at a car park after 1¾ hours. It was hardly a place to take photos but I did at the wooden bridge. A German girl on a bike offered to take my photo if I would take hers – with her camera that is. After a kiss and cuddle – must stop this - we parted and I made my way back down the road to the car. I drove back down to the main road and took a right heading for Sondrio. After a few kilometres I took a left along Val Paradisio for the next BIG. Back to the main road and on to Sondrio and alomg the expressway and took a left at the exit, glad to be out in the daylight again. This lead up to Giumello following the signs for Valsassine. At Raceno I took a right then another right to Vendrozno. From there it was 6 kilometres through a series of narrow woody lanes to the start of the next climb then 8 kilometres and 2 hours up a series of nine hairpins through the woods, 1½ hours to the top that is almost hidden by the trees to Monte Croce di Muggio, BIG number 740 . Back down along wooded narrow and pot-holed lanes to the car parked at Vendrogno then on to Bellano and along the lake heading north to Borga and Monte Legnoncino, BIG number 739. I took a right at traffic lights in Dervio centre and gradually up along town cobbles, over a rail track then took a left and immediate right in the narrow town streets, sign indicating Introzzo. From here it’s steeply up and along a narrow corniche road to Treménico. I parked here and cycled 2 hours the 9 kilometres to the road summit – another inglorious end at a car park. Another member of the Challenge-BIG club had got here first and had placed a sticker on the yellow post indicating Legnon. This was at one of the two car parks here at the top where the road peters out. The original sticker had faded so I placed another one above it. Back down the road and along to Gordona near Chiavenna.
I parked the car above Gradesella and cycled the six kilometres, 1 ½ hours to Menarola, BIG number 689. I left here at 18.30 and drove like the clappers to get back to Tirano for 20.00. I filled up with petrol at Morbegno, this was the town that I started a previous tour from years ago with no car – younger then! I had arrived at Milan Linate and took a train to Morbegno with the assembled bike and rode the San Marco Pass but that night didn’t find anywhere to stay so slept in the hollow of two felled logs, emptying my bags to pull the draw strings over my hands and feet to keep warm. It was that night I saw two large eyes staring at me from the woods then followed by a gentle rustling. Was it a bear?
The evening with Mauro, Steffi and Alex at their favourite mountain restaurant. The restaurant specialises in own cooked produce, mainly cheese dishes. This was the starter followed by the poor man’s food of years ago. Italians a couple of hundred years ago were extremely poor. Only in the 1970’s local Italians were smuggling contraband coffees in from Switzerland over the mountains defying border police who patrolled the mountain ridges. One policeman was unfortunate in 1971 that he was killed on the mountain.
Mauro pointed out a plaque on the wall of the church in memory of him. His family still places flowers there. Near where Mauro parked the car there were other plaques this time for the poor Italians who died smuggling the goods over the mountains hoping to sell the gain in Tirano. That evening Steffi drove down as Mauro had drunk wine. She was fast but safe – Mauro happened to say Steffi was once a rally driver!
Friday 9th July 2010 Tirano to Baveno, Lake Maggiore
Up early at out at 08.00 and after breakfast drove like the clappers along the Sondrio valley to Colico for the third and last time. I was getting a bit fed up with this valley. I took the autostrada through the tunnels to Lecco north again to Asso just before reaching Erba I parked the car before Sormano village and rode the open country road, taking a right in Sormano passing some market stalls then a steady climb up, the road swings to the left after a few kiolometres and reaches the refuge BIG number 751 Muro di Sormano, about 3 kilometres further on. What I should have done, I found out later, was to take the much shorter route straight on through Sormano village to the road summit. Back down again and took a left heading for Lasnigo. I parked here and rode to Madonna di Ghisallo, BIG numbers 741, a steady ride up from here along a scenic road to the church of the same name at the top and before it, on the left is a cycling museum. I didn’t want to spend time looking around this but picked some leaflets up and will look at the web site. By the side of the church is a viewpoint next to a white statue and from here there’s a panoramic view across the two arms of Lake Como and Bellágio. Back to Lasnigo and drove on through Asso and Erba, bypassed Como to the south and along the lake to Cernobbio then began the climb to Monte Bisbino, BIG number 738. I spent far too long climbing this road, over two hours, It didn’t look much on the map but 15 kilometres of twisting relentless roads to reach the white church at the top was rewarded with fantastic views back down to the lake. The whole way up the road has a good surface. Back down and to the car I entered Switzerland at Chiasso. Too much time was wasted here queuing in traffic at a snails pace passing through the customs check. I was waved through right away, no problems with British passports then! My sole intention here was the climb up to Monte Generoso, BIG number 575. I was confused at first as I took the road to Muggio – wrong valley! Back down again and along to Mendrisio where, sure enough, there was the turn to the right indicated Monte Generoso from the mini-roundabout. I parked up and took 1½ hours to reach the road end at Bella Vista rail staion and viewpoint. From here it’s a track only to the mountain summit. The road isn’t exceptionally steep, the hardest section being about midway. Back to the car then through Mendriso and crossed the border again at Arzo then narrow lanes to Bisuschio, left for Varese and filling up with petrol asked the way because the road was closed the direct way for Campo dei Fiori, BIG number 735. I was told to go back a short way north then take a left at a road that does an acute angle off the main road then up to the mountain. I parked at Santa Maria di Monte at a cobbled way entrance then biked up the mountain through the woods to the top. By car it was back to Varese and heading for Laveno through Gavirate then took a right for Brenta then left again along a narrow lane through Arcumeggia to the crossroads for BIG numbers 734 Passo Cuvignone and 736 San Martino. Both BIG’s are through woods that lead to the top and are similar climbs. At the top of San Martino is a chapel in the clearing but Passo Cuvignone is surrounded by trees. Back down again to where I parked at San Antonio and down to Nasca just before dark. I reached Laveno for a late ferry across to Verbania and drove to old haunt Baveno where Ruth and I stopped many years ago. I tried to find a room at a hotel on a side street close to the statue and flower arrangement in the main square but it was complete. I found a room at Hotel Dei Foiri for the night.
Saturday 10th July 2010 Baveno to Cervina (Matterhorn)
Breakfast was a chocolate pâne and coffee from a café by the ferry embarkation, a mooch around the streets reliving past memories then I set off about 08.30 south along the lake and took the first turn inland away from the lake up to Levo and Alpino. I left the car just beyond this and passed through the toll booths for the mountain road to Mottarone, BIG number 733, cycling through the woods. It wasn’t a difficult climb. Part way up two cyclists came up from behind and shouted in English, welcoming a BIG member up the mountain. I wished afterwards I had remembered their names but you don’t tend to carry a pen and paper with you when you’re cycling! Fellow BIG members if you read this on my website tell me who you are! The road emerges from the woods and rejoins a wider road coming up from the valley, an acute turn to the right and a further one kilometre up the mountain to reach the cafés at the top. I had ham and cheese on toast and a coke – for energy you understand! I recognised the two cyclists I met but not being a forceful character I didn’t interrupt them as they were talking to others. I placed a BIG sticker on a pole opposite the first café, took a few photos, turned tail and freewheeled back down the mountain to the car. Back down to Baveno and drove north on the Simplon road to Ornavasso then biked my next BIG, the Alpe Rossonbolmo, BIG number 731 along a rough, narrow road in open country after passing through the lower woods. It was nice to see a BIG sticker on a walkers’ direction indicator at the top, though it’s faded a bit now. Back down to the car and an adjustment to my disc brakes on the way down. I needed to tighten the front cable for more leverage. I would have liked to continue north for Alpe Cheggio BIG 730 and Cascata del Toce BIG 732 west and north of Domodossola but time was against me if I wanted to reach Valtournenche for the south side of the Matterhorn late in the day. There’s always another time and another holiday! I now had a long drive to get to Piemonte. I drove south along the lake and joined the autostrada at Stresa and made a big mistake. I didn’t take a ticket at the barrier but then the barrier lifted. I asked Mauro Repetti about this when I got home and he assured me that it was impossible to enter the autostrade without taking a ticket – but I did! He even said that it was impossible to enter any autostrade without taking a ticket – well there’s one at Stresa! I was delayed at the Arona exit and needed help from the motorist who was waiting patiently behind me, she spoke into the intercom for me where the person at the other end of the intercom instructed her on what to do. The automatic machine churned out a fine of 67.30€ that I had no intention of paying but I had 15 days in which to pay it. I would be back home in England in that time and it was tempting to forget about it but I knew the car registration would be traced back to Europcar hire company and from the company to me – besides that , Christian values are a virtue! – even though I think it. The barrier lifted after the machine output the ticket fine. Back home I paid 2.20€ toll charge and received the acknowledgement by email so all was sorted. I’ll remember next time not to do that! My route now was Borgomanero to Romagnano and passed through Biella then took the hilly road up to Ivrea. Zubiena is an interesting place on the way with it’s large church and houses huddled around it. From Ivrea I was on the Vercelli to Aosta road for the direct route to the mountains. I continued north along the Valle d’Aosta to Pont St Martin where I passed the turn for Monte Rosa, tempting to view but I continued north along the narrowing valley to Châtillon.
In the middle of the roundabout here is a scale model of the Matterhorn – or Cervina as it’s known in Italy. I took a right here and to head up the Valtournenche (valley) and at 21.30 found a perfect small hotel on the left of the road at Antey St Andre called Hotel Pession.
Sunday 11th July 2010 Cervina to Avigliana (west of Turin)
I leave Antey St Andre at 08.00, leaving the car at the hotel. It’s 20 kilometres from here to as far as I could go under Cervina / Matterhorn. Heading for Brueil-Cervina, BIG number 676 there is nothing too steep until after Chamois and especially after Valtournenche tourist town. From there it is a series of hairpins and two short tunnels. The second tunnel was avoided by taking the wide track to the left then a level road into Breuil-Cervina. I continued on past Hotel Astoria to the left on the final section of road and through the arch with the word ‘bowling’ over it and placed the BIG sticker before Hotel Mon Reve at highest road point on a lamppost to the left. Back to Châtillon then drove west along the Valle d’Aosta to Morgex, bypassing Aosta. The road west is very interesting with the mountains to the north. At Morgex I took a left for Liarèy and parked up to bike the forest road up to Tête d’Arpy where the road is now in a clearing but not for long and continue up to Colle San Carlo BIG number 677, There’s no building or café up here but a couple of summit markers. I placed the BIG sticker on the plate facing north the way I came, and of course the usual photos. Back down the same way to the car and I drove on a huge distance to reach Ceresole at the foot of Colle del Nivolet. This meant driving all the way back east along Valle d’Aosta to Ivrea then west again through Cuorgne and Locona to Ceresole. I made good time and set off at a much slower pace to bike the Colle del Nivolet, BIG number 678. The lake at Ceresole is interesting, perfectly blue against the sky. Passing through Chapili I was impressed with a country cottage to the right (north) of the road with a huge waterfall as a backdrop. I reached the dam after the zig-zags to reach the lake, Lago Serru and passed to the right of this and continued south of the Lago Agnel to begin the toughest part of the climb up about 12 hairpins to the wild ridge in front where the road reaches its height at a yellow summit plate. I didn’t place a BIG sticker so hope somebody else got round to that! The weather was pretty bad on the final section from the upper lake so didn’t linger long. Back down to Ceresole at 18.00 and concerned about finding accommodation but also wanting to drive as far south as possible to get past Turin and hopefully find somewhere to stay west of the city for the passes in that area tomorrow. At Cuoregne it was getting dark and I took a turn to the south through Favria and Caselle where it started to rain. I followed the busy autostrade for Rivoli. Passing along the busy, long straight road I came to Avigliana at 22.00 and gave up looking for somewhere to stay. I searched around the area, and eventually found a quiet lay-by next to some camper vans at Meana and kipped down in the car for the night.
Monday 12th July 2010 Avigliana to Bobbi Pellice.
I was cold in the car – and numb with pins and needles, not surprising. A car seat even in the recline position is not comfortable all night and of course there was no heating. I had to go outside and wave my arms about and jump on the spot for a while. Sleeping in a car isn’t recommended even if it does save on the accommodation cost. One positive aspect is though that I was out on the next mountain with a very early start at 5.00 a.m.! I set off from a lay-by in the woods above Lago Grande near Tetti Colombo heading for the wooded rise then through the woods and biked past the house in the dip at Mortera related to the San Pietro monastery further up. Past Mortera the road rises and there are views off to the left (north) looking over San Ambrogio. The road veers round to the right and was rewarded with a view of the monastery on the hill. Passing the monastery I continued up through the woods further to Basinatto where there is a turning to the left for the final two kilometres to the top of Colle Braida, BIG number 681. There is a small café at the top but it was closed at 7.00 a.m. A BIG sticker was already in place, faded a little. Back the same way to the car then I drove on through Bussoleno to Susa and parked in the woods past Meana di Susa. The road becomes very narrow from that point. I remember parking where somebody was washing his car so he could keep an eye on it! Of course he would be gone 3 hours later when I returned – this was definitely a full morning ride! There are many close packed hairpins through the woods and was passed by a few cyclists. One chatted for a while where we stopped at a hairpin. He came across from France and would return that way over the Colle delle Finistere and through Sestriere. He wanted me to take a photo of him so I had one taken also. We rode together for a while but of course he was younger, fitter and speedier on his lightweight bike so he left me standing! I continued on up the series of hairpins to the board at Colletto di Meana on the left indicating the map and locality of La Strada dell Assiere. There’s a white hut on the other side of the road and a very welcome running fountain made of light coloured wood, the fountain looks new but who cares, the water was just great! The road narrows after the board and tarmac gives way to loose stone but it was rideable to Colle delle Finistere, BIG number 680. The gravel road accounts for about two thirds (2/3) of the route from Susa to the road and soon leaves the forest behind and I was into wide open spaces and great views. It was less steep for a while but then about 9% according to my altimeter gradient reading. It seems steeper though on gravel. At the top there’s a brown summit plate that’s literally plastered with various club stickers, including a BIG sticker. Next to it on the right is a stone in memory of some great cyclist – I’ve forgotten who! Back down the pass to rejoin the then drove on along the valley, stopping to have a look at a waterfall on the right then I needed to have a nap – because I was tired from a very early morning and also because of the heat.
I sat in a stone bus shelter near the huge fortress that overlooks the valley at Salberfrand. Later, at about 1.00pm I arrived in Bardonecchia and left the car in a lay by close to the road tunnel that goes through to Modane, France. I began the 26km gruelling ride in the heat up the Colle Sommeillier, BIG number 679. The road follows a stream as far as Lago di Rochemolles then tackles the mountain in earnest. As far as Rochemolles the road is steep but tarmac with potholes but from the village there are a couple of hairpins then a rideable gravel track the rest of the way but rewarded with better scenery along the open mountain road. Rochemolles is a pretty village and I remember a wooden bridge, the sides laden with geranium troughs, and over the stream is the village with the church on the right. From that point on the road is barren but interesting. The challenge lay ahead with the conquest of the road that took me another 2 ½ hours! The top is reached at lust over 3000 metres (3009) and a white sign by a wooden fence in four languages, Italian, French, English and German that requests drivers to leave their vehicles and continue on foot to enjoy the splendour of the mountains.
It was cold up there so on with my jacket for the descent and back to the car – which took a while! It was now 16.00 and I wanted to get as far south as possible for the next cycle climbs but time had beaten me to attempt more today.
I drove on to Oulx and got a bit confused on the cobbled river bridge so asked for directions to Claviere. On the way again I took a left and headed for Sestriere. This would have been a wonderful road to cycle as it’s a classic mountain climb with great scenery on an open mountain road with Sestriere in view for many miles before reaching it. Formula One racing had taken place here recently as the road sides were still decked with straw barricades and tyres for cushioning. I continued on, this time down the mountain with equally great scenery this way down to Fenestrelle then on through Perosa Argentina and Pinerolo then south to Bricherásio and west again through Lucerna heading for my next climb for morning. I entered the small mountain village of Bóbbio Péllice looking for accommodation an hour before sunset. There was nowhere in the village street available. The only hotel there was full but was directed to a large building set back off the road to the east of the village. That would do nicely. I took the lane up to Bodéina and got a room at Albergo Palavas and a set meal at a reasonable price – and slept well that night after no bed the previous night.
Tuesday 13th July 2010 Bóbbio Péllice to Nucetto near Ceva.
After a good night’s sleep and an equally good breakfast I hit the road at 08.00 and left the car in a quiet spot at the foot of Rifugio Barbara Lowrie, BIG number 691 at Perla. I drove up the road from the village and was fortunate enough to find another cyclist unloading his bike from the car. He knew exactly where to go so I rode with him but of course he was younger and had a mountain bike and really wanted to reach Rifuge Willie Jervis much higher up before midday. I plodded on alone. The Barbara Lowrie top would suit me. The road is narrow and rough with potholes for about 9 kilometres and gets steeper towards the end. Refuge Barbara was a welcome sight. It’s possible to stay there and might have been more adventurous than where I stayed last night. I like the open country up there and the wooden bridges over the small stream. It had been raining part way up the climb but soon went off. The upper valley is closed in by the mountains but somewhere ahead was the road further on to Rifuge Willie Jervis but I turned round and back to the car.
I drove on through Lucerna, Cavour, Barge (an interesting, colourful village) and Paesana to reach Crissolo and parked up alongside a wide road then biked the narrower road up hairpins of Pian del Re, BIG number 682 and eventually to a public house where I remember a statue of a climber but can’t find any detail of this when I arrived home. From this point the road becomes steeper and wilder but there are great views back down the valley of the Po. Each kilometre up from Calcinere there are wooden blue painted kilometre and altitude / gradient markers. Here is the small beginning of Italy’s greatest river that empties out into the Adriatic south of Venice. It’s a good surface road most of the way to the top of the pass until a metal bridge is reached, it’s a bit stony there but now only half a kilometre from the red roof, white walled public house at the top. I placed a BIG sticker on the plastic cover of the map of the area under its small wooden shelter.
This ensures that it shouldn’t fade too quickly! Some weeks later we were watching a programme on the TV at home of three brothers that cycled from southern Spain to Rome to follow Hannibal’s trail. On one programme one of the brothers cycled one of the three possible routes where Hannibal crossed the Alps and one of them was here, at the head of Pian del Re. He came over from France from Abries and passed just north of Mount Viso – pushing the bike of course! The route took him very steeply down, clambering over rocks on Col de la Traversette and to this point then re-joined his brothers in lower ground to the east. Another brother cycled the easiest possible route of Hannibal over Col de Montgenevre and the third brother over the Col de Clapier north of Sommellier, also having to push the bike over the Alps. How did the elephants manage it?!
The upper valley is very interesting and there is a waterfall at the head of the valley – I take it that is the source of the River Po? I turned around and enjoyed the descent back down to Crissolo and the car and continued on, back along the valley to Paesana and Saluzzo then south and west again to Sampeyre village. I left the car at a large car park on the opposite side of the road to the beginning of the climb to the left to the quiet village of St Anna and upward through dense woods to Colle di Sampeyre, BIG number 684. The woods give way to open country but it’s another barren pass and the road is very narrow but with passing places – I needed this later as I went back the same way to get in the car and drive over because it saved going back east along the valley to come back again to ride the next pass, the Colle della Fauniera. It made sense as I wanted to try to reach the coast by the end of the day. As it was I couldn’t as this and the next pass took too long together with an evening ride up the Prato Nevoso. I took a photo of the wooden summit marker and the strange silver statue topped with the figure. I took it this was a modern statue of Mary.
There is a ridge of high ground at the top but I couldn’t see any distance. Back to the car and over the top, taking a right part way down at a church and came down steeply to Stroppo then south to Mármora and parked below the hairpins at Rocciasone for the climb to Colle della Fauniera, BIG number 685, and the church at the top. The whole route is very green, woods and long grass either side of the road. There is a statue of Marco Pantani on his bike at the time – at first sight I thought it was monkey! Along to Demonte and through the wide streets of Cuneo to Mondivi then south to Frabosa Soprana where I parked up for the climb to Prato Nevoso, BIG number 687, taking a left over a bridge and away from the road to Artesina ski resort. The road up to the higher ski resort at Prato Nevosa goes higher and I continued through the empty resort of a long row of covered shops on the left and the ski drag on the right. I went through the resort to see how far I could get up here. Eventually I came to Baira Di Stella at the top of Monte Moro where there is a huge mast standing thee in the mist. To get here I passed under a covered way under the final buildings and a few hairpins among rough grass. I placed a BIG sticker on the mast. From there back down the mountain, past the resort. Just south of Ceva I found a hotel on the left, Hotel Sanremo.
Wednesday 14th July 2010 Ceva to La Spezia
From Ceva I drove to Villanova d’Albenga and then a short way along the back road as far as Pieve di Teco, parked then rode the ridge, gently up then down to San Bernardo then took a left on a narrow tarmac road. After about a kilometre the tarmac gives way to loose stones making it difficult to negotiate the remaining 9 kilometres to Colle Garezzo, BIG number 748. Much of the upper part of the road had to be walked. From here back the same way to Pieve di Teco and drove on to Imperia and the very different world of the busy coastal resort. It called for great concentration along here as I needed to watch crazy people darting across the road as well as the stop-start antics of motorists looking for anywhere to squeeze into and park to find their spot at the beach. I wasn’t looking for the beach but the next BIG. As most people were looking to the beach I was looking inland for signs to La Cipressa, BIG number 750 first of all. There was a sign indicating the village of the same name perched on the hill just past San Lorenzo al Mare. I took the road inland and parked a short way along then I biked the road through the village, under the arch over the road and up as far as I could go to quiet villas where the crickets were playing their tune of a thousand instruments. I placed a sticker at the highest point among the villas I freewheeled back down to the car and back to the coast road for my next conquest in the heat of the day just after Bussana. Poggio was signposted and I turned off the coast road again, parking at a bend in the road before a house with a wire fence. There are twists and turns on the way up. I passed through Poggio village to the highest point at Poggio di San Remo, BIG number 749. I rode up the way called Via Val d’Olivi but was confused on the way down as I took a right turn and should have gone left at the top. This meant I had to climb it a second time as my car was parked along another road, similar but not the correct road. Relieved to find the car – I thought at first somebody had made off with it! I drove along the scenic coast slowly along to Finale Ligure with memories of biking this coast from here to Nice about 30 years ago with Harry Foy from Northern Ireland – great days. Now I headed inland into the mist this time as the weather here was in complete contrast to the blisteringly hot rides of the previous two BIG’s. I parked somewhere near the turn off to Magliolo and rode into the mist with absolutely no view except my handlebars and reached the short tunnel at the top. There are one or two buildings up there as I reached Passo di Melogno, BIG number 752, placed the sticker on the summit plate and went in reverse back to the car and continued along the coast taking the autostrade to Genova and getting confused in the city streets. I had had enough now and decided to head for Pisa then Rome.
It was soon evident I wouldn’t reach Pisa tonight so opted for La Spezia and left the Livorno autostade at Brugnato, from here south to La Spezia and found a great place to stay at the end of a road just north of the town.
Thursday 15th July 2010 La Spezia to Pisa
I cleared La Spezia and was on my way to Massa. This road was too busy and I wanted to see the coast so I took a right heading for the coast road and followed this from Marina di Massa to Viareggio. I parked and walked the beach for a while. It’s good sand, very firm but also the beach is very crowded. There are no high rise hotels along the coast but plenty of beach huts and cafes. It was also a very hot day. I left the beach and the coast road at an abrupt end in Marinadi Torre d. Lago and rejoined the main road into Pisa, I found a hotel just outside the city on the Livorno road 2 kilometres south. I checked in and left my rucksack in the room and the car at the hotel then biked along into Pisa in search of the leaning tower as I had a leaning to go there. I biked along to the river and looked for the famous site south of that but it wasn’t. I asked an old gent on a bike who told me to follow him and he led me to a bridge over the river. From there he told me to go over and to the right and I would reach the tower. Sure enough there it was. I stayed a while and took it all in. reliving past memories when I last came with Ruth – probably about 20 years ago. I slept for a while on the grass in the hot sun
Friday 16th July 2010 Pisa to Rome
I drove on south to Rome along the coast road bypassing Livorno to Cecina. The main road wouldn’t be conducive to cycling as it’s too wide and also high up from the coast with many cuttings that obstruct the view to the sea At San Vincenzo the road leaves the coast heading inland and there really isn’t anything to see until reaching Orbetello lagoon where I could see the two causeways heading out to Argentario with Monte Argentario looking oddly placed away from the coast. I didn’t want to get the bike out and go up the mountain even though it’s a BIG. I was tired of cycling now and just wanted to reach Rome. The area south of Argentario is more interesting for scenery and it’s a Roman Road – Via Aurelia. I continued on and dropping down to the coast at Civitavecchia I could see a huge luxury cruise liner in port. I didn’t like this town, it’s grubby. The town is mainly the docks and what goes with it. Just south of the town though the road hugs the coast again and places such as San Marinella are small seaside resorts on the way down to Rome. Shortly I was heading inland again and reached Ponte Tre Denari (Three Coins Bridge?) and took the road for Fregene then immediately left for Ponte Galeria and Fiumicino. It was confusing along here because the airport didn’t seem to be getting any nearer. Eventually I got there and looked for the nearest hotel to the airport. Unfortunately is was very expensive! Even the hotel car parking was expensive. Another motorist was complaining to me that they were robbing us. I wasn’t going to be robbed but took the car to the Europcar drop-off point at the airport. Eventually I found the way in to the right building block after driving round and manoeuvred up to the 4th floor of the multi-story car park where the drop-off point was. I took out and re-assembled my bike.
Later I cycled along to Fiumicino passing the airport, it was further than I thought. The small town is a fishing port with some bars and cafes along the Tevere where the river empties out to the sea. I had a few pieces of fresh fish pizza and a beer from a take-away pizza with my bike perched next to me then settled for a while talking in the scene across the harbour with fishing boats and fresh catch then ambled back out of the town and headed back for the hotel.
Saturday 17th July 2010 Rome
This morning I had a lie in, followed by a bland breakfast – but the fruit and yoghurt smuggled out will do for later! I biked to the airport and went fort the local train. I had free tickets but they weren’t checked either way. It was approx ¾ train journey to Roma Stazione Termini. Once there I relived memories of Ruth and I being approached on the station forecourt and tempted with an offer of accommodation nearby, we followed the man along some streets and were pleased with our accommodation for 2 nights. Today I was only here for the day to make a whirlwind tour of the city by bike. Sure enough it was possible to see all the sights of the city and go up some of the city hills such as the Trastevere south of the Vatican. I planned the day to tour the sites of the city in an anti clockwise direction. From the station I headed first of all to the Piazza Repubblica, a huge crescent that would do Bath proud. From here down to Barberini and the Triton Fountain and guided an English lady back to the station. Because I had a bike she naturally thought I was Italian and was surprised when I answered her in English. From here uphill along Via Sistina to the top of the Spanish Steps and took photos here of the obelisk in the piazza below and across to the Vatican to the west. I rode along the terrace to Piazza del Popolo with its towers encircling an obelisk in an open area. From there along to the river, Fiume Tevere, Mausoleum of Augustus and across the Ponte Sant Angelo to Castel Sant Angelo then criss-crossed over the other two ornate river bridges of Ponte Vittoria Emanuele II and Ponte Principe then along to Via della Conciliazione for the classic approach to St Peter’s Basilica, unfortunately hidden by Catholic pilgrims snap- happy in parked coaches- the westernised version of the must do trip to Mecca. I approached St Peters along the wide boulevard and into St Mark’s Square. Here was another country to my list of cycling conquests but you can’t get any smaller! I took photos at the fountains either side, the Sistine Chapel and before the basilica – and the usual photos of others by request – then back to Piazza Pio XII and to Piazza della. I went along to cobbled Via della Lungara and up to Fonte Acqua Paolo where people were dangling their feet in the fountain. It’s a good view from here over the rooftops looking towards the Colosseum. I rode on up to Porta San Pancrazio arch and the monument to Garibaldi, seated proudly on a horse on a set of columns. From here down to Faro al Gianicolo and south along the river to Ponte Garibaldi and bought a cheap Peroni lager and relaxed in the sun. From here I crossed the river at Ponte Cestion on to Isola then north to Area Sacra and the archaeological dig and further up to the Pantheon where I slept for a while in the heat of the day. Across from there to Piazza Navona and its three fountains. Police were constantly whistling for people to remove themselves from the fountains, even though it was hot. I headed east now across the city to Palazzo Montecitorio, a government building with an obelisk on the raised piazza in front then across the narrow streets to the Trevi Fountain, Fontana di Trevi. I threw in a euro and wished for Ruth to pay a return visit with me here one day. I lingered here for some time in the sun. From here directly south along Via della Pilotta to Triaiana Column and the huge white wedding cake memorial to Vittorio Emmanuele II, glistening in the bright sunshine. Uphill a little and round to the river at San Maria in Cosmedin. Clockwise around the Circo Massimo even though it was one way, taking photos of what was once the chariot racing circuit. Left at the end and I headed up to the Arch of Constantine and entered the area of the Roman remains.
This is wonderful area to leave to the end and crowned with the fantastic sight of the Colosseum with the sunlight shining through the huge portals. From here to the cobbled Via del Fori Imperiali and carried the bike down some steps to Via Cavour, along the busy road and back to Roma Termini for the train back to the airport and Hotel Garden City. It was a great day out exploring Rome. I could have locked the bike and explored Spanish Steps and St Mark’s Basilica but I was satisfied with what I saw. I took the train back to the airport and stayed at the hotel, not venturing out again, besides I had to dismantle the bike and bag it ready for the bus to take me from the hotel to the airport in the morning.
Sunday 18th July 2010 Homeward Bound
The bus whizzed me to the airport at 08.30 The EasyJet flight departed at Rome Fiumicino at 11.10 though a bit late, arriving in Liverpool at 12.40. Ruth, God reward her, came for me at the airport and took me home as it was raining.
This was the planned tour but it really was too ambitious, even using a hire car between climbs :
Day 1 Friday 2nd July 2010 Milan to Verona
Day 2 Saturday 3rd July 2010 Verona to Trento
747 746 745 728 729 743 744 (NW of Garda) 706
Day 3 Sunday 4th July 2010 Trento to Tolmezzo
745 (NW of Garda) 707 727 726 725 724 723
Day 4 Monday 5th July 2010 Tolmezzo to Bruneck
721 720 719 717 708 712
Day 5 Tuesday 6th July 2010 Bruneck to Tirano
709 710 702 699 698
Day 6 Wednesday 7th July 2010 Tirano to Tirano or Chiavenna
705 694 692
Day 7 Thursday 8th July 2010 Tirano or Chiavenna to Como
689 739 740 741 751 738
Day 8 Friday 9th July 2010 Como to Domodossola
736 735 734 733 731
Day 9 Saturday 10th July 2010 Domodossola to Courmayeur
732 730 676 677
Day 10 Sunday 11th July 2010 Courmayeur to Pinerolo
678 679 680 681
Day 11 Monday 12th July 2010 Pinerolo to Sanremo
691 682 684 685 687 748
Day 12 Tuesday 13th July 2010 Sanremo to Genova
749 750 752 753 754
Day 13 Wednesday 14th July 2010 Genova to Cinque Terre
755 756 757 758
Day 14 Thursday 15th July 2010 Cinque Terre to Florence
759 760 761 762 763 764
Day 15 Friday 16th July 2010 Florence to San Marino
765 766 767 769
Day 16 Saturday 17th July 2010 San Marino to Rome
787 795 771 770