German Cycling Tour May 2013
The ambition was to ride up all my outstanding German road climbs listed in the Brevette Internationale Grimpeur (BIG) climbs of Germany together with a few extra thrown in that border on Germany from the north of Austria and west of the Czech Republic. A week before I left home I ensured the new mountain bike was ready for its maiden voyage and did the bike preparation: removed handlebars and covered it in bubble wrap then tied it with string to the frame top tube, removed the wheels and wrapped them in bubble-wrap or cloth as they fitted either side of the frame in bike bag, no need to deflate them as I was travelling by train. Put in bag cycle shoes, pump, inner tubes, levers, allen keys and helmet and placed drink bottles in the frame racks on the bike. I would use the recently bought trolley wheels to transport bike bag, especially useful crossing London and on Brussels station. I took clothing, tools, maps and reading stuff in my large green rucksack and would use a small bike rucksack for bike trips. DB Travel 08444 997171
Friday 17th May
Train Holmes Chapel 06.32, Crewe 06.46. Crewe 07.17, London Euston 08.52
London St Pancras 10.58 on Eurostar EST 9126, arrive Brussels Midi 14.05.
Brussels Midi 14.25 on ICE 17, arrive Cologne Hbf 16.15
11 days hire 17/5 to 28/5 16.30 on 17/5 to 17.30 on 28/5 Collect car, £320.94. VW Golf 1.4 litre or similar 0800 368 3001, select option 2 if amending. Full waiver insurance included for an extra 137€. Collected the car at 17.30. Car hire broker reference 291486074, www.Rentalcars.com. Car hire from Sixt on Cologne Station.
Location of Sixt branch: The office is located inside the Cologne Central Station. From the main entrance it is the first aisle to the left and you'll find us opposite the Information Centre of the DB (Reisezentrum DB). Other compared car hires: Auto-Europe.co.uk Astra hire £180.30 basic/Europcar £309 with excess payable or £413 with all excess waived
I requested Rental Cars to supply a car with the largest boot possible at the same price and was surprised they had arranged me to take a Nissan Qashqui+2, a large 6- seater. I moved the rear seats forward then placed the bike, still inside its bag, into the ample boot space and drove away at 17.30 for Bonn. I got a bit confused on the southern outskirts of Cologne and drove back towards the city but eventually I found the main road away from the Rhine and arrived in Bonn then over the Rhine Bridge crossing for Konigswinter.
It took me nearly three hours to drive what should have been 42km (29 miles) 2 hours to Konigswinter, probably added a further 18km but eventually arrived at a point on the main road just above the town and parked close to a notice board at the foot of the climb away from the main road. Cycled Ferdinand Mulhenstraβe then the short climb is up through thick woods and at first I could see the hotel at the top but not all the way up through dense greenery. Once at the top after 40 minutes I cycled the circular path around the front of the hotel and took the obligatory photos.
Petersberg BIG 177 (19.30 – 20.30) Direction: start to right of Konigswinter bahnhof on Ittenbach road L331, Ferdinand Mulhenstraβe then left on Rosenauerweg, left near top. (19.00 – 21.00) 4.2km 1 hour
Later drove over to Ittenbach – and flashed by a speed camera on the descent – that’s unfair! It’s hard to go slow on a descent. It was becoming dark now. Later over to Uckerath and roads through Altenkirchen, Roth, Siegen to Winterberg. 126km, 78 miles, 2 hours – more like 4 hours in reality, 2 in the planning stage. The reasons were a few; In Altenkirchen there was much traffic so progress was slow and one German opened my car door and shouted something and slammed it, don’t understand German profanities but I was a bit shaken! Later in Betzdorf I had to follow a diversion after asking at a garage in my best German, In Seigen I was flashed again by another speed camera and this time received a bill at home for 25€. This was along a very dark stretch and a bumpy road that was undergoing repair. Later on I was approaching the Rothaargebirge area and was driving at a snail’s pace through thick night fog. I parked up for the night and slept in the car just north of Bad Berleburg at a large lay-by on the right. There was some festival going on, a lot of people around and noisy so needed to park north of the town.
Total 6 hours (22.00) Park up for the night (actual 8.5 hours, 00.30)
Saturday 18th May
Drove 22km from Bad Berleburg to Schmallenberg at 06.00 and cycled to Kahler Asten, finally through a campsite on the left between Neuastenberg and Winterberg then took the track up to the top rather than the road. There was nobody about except people waking up at the campsite. The top was shrouded in mist – well, fog. I took some photos around the building and information boards then made my way back to the car via Nordenau.
BIG 178 Kahler Asten, east of Dusseldorf. Location is southwest of Winterberg on Altastenberg road, third turn on the left (first left is Winterbergstrasse, followed by a minor left turn) Direction: Between Altastenberg and Winterberg on road L640 to Hochheide, turn right near top. From Schmallenburg 19km 3 hours
Later drive through Winterberg ski resort, Olsberg, Briton, Paderborn, Bad Meinberg on road L239 for Detmold 106km, 66miles (Pages 70, 71, 57) 2 hours. Parked up in Detmold on the Heiligenkirchen road past a stream on the right then in a long lay-by on the right before the rise of the road Franz Ebert out of the town. It took me 40 minutes to reach the top, 10.00 to 10.40am. Shortly a right turn and through Hiddesen, a small country town and from there a left turn up to Hermannsdenkmal through a wooded area. The road ends at a car park by a large café then a narrower cobbled road to the right of the café and through an avenue of trees for half a kilometre up to the huge monument of a winged helmet figure with sword aloft and facing the away from the road rising towards it, the statue overlooking the valley below. The monument represents the most northerly advance of the Roman Legion before the German tribes stopped their march north at this point. I took some photos and was offered by someone to take mine posing in front of the monument. There wasn’t much to see here except for the monument itself due to the low clouds. Some of the time the top of the monument was obscured while I was there. People were setting up tent stalls while I was there on either side of the cobbled narrow road on the grass. I presumed they would start at noon and I was just leaving before then.
BIG 152 Hermannsdenkmal, north-east-east of Dortmund. Direction: Head left for Heiligenkirchen then L878 road named Denkmalstraβe. Continue over to Detmold then take a right on L938 Paderbornerstraβe and back to car. 4km, 1 hour
From Detmold through Hoxter, Bad Gandersheim, Clausthal Zellerfeld to Braunlage 155km, 97 miles, 2.5 hours. Parked up in Braunlage to climb Sonnenberg and the Brocken following. Braunlage to Sonnenberg is 11km and not so difficult, the first section on a quieter road out of the town, taking a right on to the main road then left in front of a café /pub to Sonnenberg and continued on over to St Andreasberg and back again the same way. Perhaps I missed something here because I didn’t see anything of any indication of the top of the Sonnenberg on the road. Should I have taken a road off? All I got was some photos of the top of a main road climb, not very exciting. Where is the Sun and where is the Berg? Both are hidden in the fog.
BIG 184 Sonnenberg (Harz) Direction: Between Osterode am Harz and Braunlage take road south for Bad Lauterberg on L519. From Braunlage 11 km 2 hours
Cycled Braunlage through Eland and Schierke up some steep roads through wooded country. From Eland it was quieter away from the road to Blankenburg. It’s a pleasant ride from Eland and enjoyed passing through sleepy Schierke with its many guest houses. On the way down from the Brocken later I called at a few for accommodation for the night but each time I was told bezetst. The climb took the Brocken took 3 hours; ½ hour Braunlage to Eland, ½ hour further to Schierke then a further hour to the top. It was a steady climb, not difficult. The way up is mainly through woods, the final 3km through open clearing however I saw nothing in shrouded mist conditions. The conditions at the top were disappointing, nothing to be seen except in close vicinity. The metal tower behind the building at the top was completely hidden. To make matters worse the café was closed. I took some photos of a steam train and coaches about to leave for Wernigerode then made my way back further down over the spiral track slowly through Schierke and on to Braunlage in 40 minutes and loaded the bike back into the car. From there I drove on for via Wernigerode searching for accommodation there along the road from Eland, Friedrichstraβe, but no success so drove on to Blankenberg.
BIG 185 Brocken (Harz) Direction: At Eland east of Braunlage take road L99 Hagenstraβe through Schierke on Hauptstraβe, off at roundabout where way forward is on Hagenstraβe. From Eland 14km, 3 hours
In Blankenberg I filled up with petrol, its first fill since leaving Cologne, 50€. Time was approx 9.00pm now and dusk approaching so resigned myself to knowing I would be sleeping in the car again tonight.Eland to Blankenberg 21km, 13 miles, 30 minutes. I bought a kebab and beer in Blankenberg at a pizza and kebab stall on a cobbled square near the roundabout for the Quedlinburg road.
I was toying with the idea of parking up for the night at a car park in a back street on the other side of the road but thought i might not get peace so drove on a little way heading for the next climb for tomorrow. A took the second turn on the roundabout and headed for Thale. It was dark now and approaching 11.00pm and needed to sleep. I parked up in Thale village just before the centre, a right turn then right again to a cul-de-sac that continued to a path, possibly a disused rail track. This was at the foot of the Roβtrappe. A perfect place to stop, very quiet and this meant I could enjoy an early morning climb. Total 17.5 hours, 06.00 – 23.30 Sleep at Thale at very foot of the the next climb.
BIG 186 Roβtrappe (Harz) Blankenberg-Thale-Guntersberge road, right - southwest for Thale, then right before Thale, From Blankenburg, 9km, 2 hours
Set off at 06.30 for an hour’s climb through the woods on a twisty route to the top of the narrow road then a left turn at a pile of logs for approx 200 metres to the green Roβtrappe marker and a slight down through a shingle car park to the two sleepy hotels either beside of a courtyard. There was nobody about until just before I left when a stocky gent came out for a smoke at the viewpoint. There was no view; the valley below was shrouded in low cloud. The usual photos taken then back down the road the same way and back to the car. Later driving through Landenberg, Nordhausen, Heilbad, Witzenhausen, south to Abterode on Eschwege road 122km, 76 miles, 2 hours. On the way I stopped off just north of Hasselfelde because I noticed a curious word carved out of the grass in huge letters indicating Westernstadt. I thought of the cold war barrier that the communists called the Anti Fascist Barrier but it was nothing of the kind. A few metres further along I saw the answer was a Wild West town called Pullman City. I parked up to join the people walking around in stetsons and stringy trouser sides. I couldn’t go into the site without paying but I could see enough from the outside and didn’t really want to be sidetracked. On through Hasselfelde, an interesting town of wide streets bordered by old wooden buildings. It’s an interesting place. I took a photo of the place name sign at Heilbad Heiligenstadt – Holy spa heavenly town – it’s literal English translation. At Uder I took the lane for Allendorf and came to an old watchtower of the East German death strip and nearby a brown / white roadside plate indicating the demise of the DDR and the unification date with the outside world. Down to valley along the main road south then headed west to Abterode for the next climb. Parked up and biked through Vockerode where there was a street party going on, I returned to this later. At this point the road rises abruptly for the next climb.
BIG 153 Hohermeiβner, east of Kassel From Abterode, west, right fork, right again then left off the road going north to Witzenhausen or between Velmeden and Vockerode/Germerode on L3241. Take road north L3242, then left again further up then 2 more right turns to top. From Abterode 5 km, 1.5 hours
There’s a viewpoint and hotel at the halfway point and a great view across the valley, for once there was no low cloud. Today the weather was just great. At this point the road goes to the right then immediately a left turn the continuation to the top of the Hohermeiβner. At the top of the main through road the top itself is reached at a left turn to the red masts and expensive looking restaurant where the name Hohermeiβner is engraved on the white walls at the entrance. The road ends just a little further on at the end of the car park. There’s a sign by the red masts along the road warning that this is an electric field charged area. The usual photos then an about turn and back down to the festivities in Vockerode where I bought an apple juice 1.20€ and milled around for a while. Nothing else on offer except alcohol and a pig spit roast I cruised back down to the car.
Drive Abterode, head for Eschwege but south before that on Fulda road through Bad Hersfeld, Alsfeld, (go to south German map from this point)Lauterbach, Herbstein, Ilbesten, 123km, 76 miles, 2 hours.
BIG 154 Hoherodskopf, north east of Frankfurt. On Schotten-Breuengeshain-Iberhausen road east of Buzbach, north of Frankfurt. Direction: between Eichelsdorf and Illbesthausen – Hochwaldhausen south of Herbstein. Eichelsdorf-Rainrod-Schotten-Breungeshain, From Illbehausen 8km 2 hours
Later drive Ilbesthousen through Fulda, and east for Poppenhausen 55km, 35 miles, 1 hour. The road from Herbstein to Ilbehausen was closed due to roadworks and diversions were in place (umleitung) directing traffic to Grebenhain then north from there to the village. I parked up at a large car park there next to a tourist information building in the centre then unloaded the bike for the climb to Hoherodskopf. The climb is up through woods again, left turn to reach a road top at Wasserhein where there’s a large skier’s car park on the left. Another left turn after a 500m distance and a dip in the road and up to the large car park and huge concrete tower with a flying saucer at the top (with a little imagination). At the top of the road there is a road circuit with plenty of eating places alongside and a car park in the centre of the circuit. There are indication boards indicating the history and geography of the area. This is another mountainside like so many in the area that are extinct volcanoes. Photos taken I do an about turn and return down the mountain to the car. My plan was now to continue to Batten east of Fulda for the next climb tomorrow however on the way the weather turned nasty. It was dry most of the way as far as Hauswurz south of Fulda. I decided to take a direct route east avoiding Fulda along minor roads through Crainfeld, Hauswurz, Neuhof (all road indications led to this point)
After Hauswurz the heavens opened. I couldn’t find the road after Rothermann that would take me further north on a route directly east from Fulda so had to make do with the road to Gersfeld to the south. There were roadworks along this road that compounded the problem together with the rain deluge. I needed to find somewhere to stay tonight; I couldn’t sleep in the car. I had a meal – bratwurst and chips – at a café in Gersfeld, 3.00€ and a fruit juice, 1.00€. I asked if there was anywhere to stay in Gersfeld tonight. The girl in there was very helpful, well beyond the call of duty, and rang round for me and found me a room in a small hotel for a good price, breakfast included. She directed me there and as she telephoned ahead they were expecting me. Another girl in there told me to follows her car as she drove a short distance out of the town to the north where I was shown a small hotel on the hill slope north west of the town, Pension Weinig. This would do me nicely. It was a good time to sort my rucksack out and also dry some wet clothing and rinse out my sweaty cycle clothing. My first night’s accommodation and I needed it. Ah, the dusch was bequime!
Total 13.5 hours 06.30 – 20.00
Monday 20th May
Breakfast was back at the first hotel – Hotel Krone- in the centre of Gersfeld so I drove back there at 08.00 and had a fantastic breakfast with plenty taken in a doggy bag for my lunch later. Paid my dues, 32.50€ and made myself some rolls with cheese and ham, took a few bananas and yoghurts. I asked the way to Wasserkuppe and was shown the yellow road indication sign along the road in front of the hotel. I took the road to the west of Wasserkuppe through Poppenhausen and Abterode. The second village lies in an upper valley and a sweep down to reach the road junction after a long climb up from Gersfeld – such a waste! From the road junction the way up was along a fern bordered road up to Wasserkuppe from the west. It was clear weather and sunny all the way up from Gersfeld but the final kilometre and the top itself was shrouded in heavy mist. I was getting some bad deals in hilltops in Germany. I took some photos and had a look round the ski centre, not many people around. Even the Tourist Information Office was closed. At about 10.00 I made my way back down the other side of the pass on a more direct road to Gersfeld. Steeply down to the main road through an open clearing then to the right on the main road from Eisenach. For a main road it was quiet through much green countryside.
BIG 180 Wasserkuppe, east of Fulda. From Poppenhausen to the east on L3307 heading for Ehrenberg, head west at Wasserkuppe village past the museum. From Poppenhausen 10km, 2.5 hours
I returned to the car left on the cobbled square in front of Hotel Krone and drove out back up the same main road and on through Batten, Vacha and Eisenach to Wutha to the east of Eisenach 100km, 62 miles, 2 hours, where I was hoping to drive to Tabarz and park up for the next climb. Just before Buttlar I came across another old DDR watchtower in a field and stopped to take a look at what was one ‘no man’s land’ – and for many the death strip. At Wutha I discovered this road was also closed so drove along to Mechterstadt on the Gotha road then headed south from there to Tabarz. I parked along a street of houses to the left in the village then pulled out the bike for the next climb. It was steep most of the way and caught glimpses of the tower at the top on the way up but soon all views were hidden by dense woods. Further up there’s an indication for Groβer Inselberg. The final 3km are along a steep cobbled stretch and for the first time I was glad to be using a mountain bike and not a road bike. Approaching the top the road goes to the right after a fork junction in front of a restaurant.
From this point it’s the final cobbled stretch to the radio/TV tower and workings at the top beyond a high metal gate that marks the end of the road. Before it is a rough car park but no indication of a name board marking the top of the road so made do with the ski sign and asked someone to ‘macht mein foto bitte’. From there back down the same way to the car, reversed the car out of the street and made for the autobahn at Laucha. There was some confusion here as I followed what seemed to be the through route through the village but I should have taken a right and followed the road beside the rail track to the autobahn. I parked up by some strawberry – erdbeeren- sellers to eat some of my breakfast rolls to get myself ready for a long drive from here to Dresden.
BIG 179 Groβer Inselberg, west of Erfurt. Tabartz to Schmalkalden, south west of Gotha. Direction: Between Tabarz and Floh-Seligenthal/Schmalkalden to the west on K10 to top – Stoy Denkmal (left fork), from Tabartz 9km, 2 hours
Long drive, Bad Neustadt, Meiningen, Eisfeld, Zwickau, Chemnitz, Dresden 320km, 237 miles, 4.5 hours. I didn’t stop along the autobahn and later took the exit for Radebeul and Dresden Neustadt. I asked at a garage soon after coming off the autobahn for the directions to Bischofsweg and was directed along Leipzigerstrasse then to follow the Elbe and the tramline to Bautznerstrasse. From there I knew my way from memory. I drove along close to the river and found the old hospital and Bischofsweg soon after. I parked just up the road from Hans and Eva’s house and called at the door at 18.00. They were overjoyed to see me which was nice. Embraces and kisses and embarrassment I settled down in his house and had a beer. Shortly after we went to my car and he instructed me how to drive up the road to his garage where I was to leave it. The car was more secure there than anywhere else I left it on this holiday as it was behind six foot high metal gates down a driveway in front of the garage. I turned it round on the grass to the side of the garage so that it was facing up the drive towards the gates. Eva prepared a very filling and tasty meal of potato salad, gherkins and wurst and Hans brought out the beer. We then settled down for the evening and talked about our families and health and much praise for the Olympics Book (I wish he would forget it!). Hans finished the evening by breaking open a bottle of champagne –sekt. Eva had prepared the children’s room for me to sleep and I really slept well
Total 9 hours, (09.00 – 18.00)
Tuesday 21st May
I was up at 07.00 but didn’t leave until 11.00. Eva prepared a wonderful breakfast. Hans sketched me a map of how to drive out for Pirna and Bad Schandau. I was to take the river bridge then take road 172 for Heidenau. It would be a mistake, he said, to take the road east and along the north bank of the Elbe as this was a smaller road and only went to Pirna where I would join the main road 172 further east. I was sorry to leave so soon. They walked with me to his garage and I took their photos before saying goodbye. Drive to Schmilka, 62km, 40 miles, 1 hour. The traffic was quite bad as far as Bad Schandau but less so from there to Schmilka after crossing the Elbe at Bad Schandau. It was interesting seeing the centre of that town with its narrow main street and pink towers. In Schmilka I paid 3.00€ car park fee and cycled to the border crossing then back 100 metres to the narrow cobbled road and under an archway that led on to a track for Groβer Winterberg.
BIG 162 Winterbergstraβe, south east of Dresden. From Schmilka on the Elbe take Wurzelweg road by side of Ilmenbach stream then first right on to Winterbergstraβe. 6km, 2 hours
I took a wrong turning a short way along. At the point where the main way up veers round to the right there is a parallel path that had an indication board for Groβer Winterberg and this seemed to be the right way as the main way up, not knowing any better, veered round to the right again and I thought this can’t be the way as it would only head back to the river again – I later found out it didn’t! I followed the other route, the footpath and this really was a hard slog pushing the bike. It seemed hopeful when I reached the sheer rocks, a sure sign that I was now in Saxon Switzerland. A while later I reached a junction of paths and asked a German family I met the directions to the top. I was told it was still a long way to go off to the right so I turned tail and went back down the footpath carrying the bike down. When I reached the point where I made my mistake I rode up the track that eventually led to the top through dense woods and many twists and turns. I encountered a truck dropping gravel for the track on the way up which was a bit of a bind as it stopped my rhythm. I had to get off and walk and get on again on a not so steep section. Eventually I reached the top and got a person to take my photo and I took some of the small restaurant and out-buildings up there. From there I doubled bike, glad of the mountain bike again on this rough surface.
I loaded the bike back into the car and drove Schmilka, Dresden, Freiburg, Marienberg, Schwartzenberg, Breitenbrunn 130km, 81 miles, 2 hours. – well that was my intended route but after Freiburg where i was tempted by an outdoor MacDonalds drive in there was a road diversion – umleitung – on the way to Annaberg Bucholz. At Mittelsaida the diversion took me through Sayda, Olbernhau, Marienburg (a sudden heavy rain shower), Reitzenhain, and Johstadt that is right on the Czech border. I ended up at a road that ended up at a track into Czech Republic so turned back, up the hill back into the town on a hill and finally into Annaberg Bucholz then Schwarzenberg and south to Rittersgrun where I parked up for a double BIG tour of the Fichtelsberg and Auersberg, arriving at about 13.00 I tackled the Auersberg first through Breitenbrunn and later back to Breitenbrunn for the steady climb to Fichtelsberg which was fairly easy but disappointed with the barren top. All I could see was a large car park and a large TV/radio mast but then the weather was miserable, low cloud, hardly any visibility and rain showers.
BIG 187 Auersberg, south of Zwickau, also starts from Breitenbrunn but start at Aue. Also from Breitenbrunn between Aue and Auerbach take road S272 then right (north) on road Sausschwemme to top. Then a right turn off Elbenstockerstrasse. From Aue 12km, 3 hours
BIG 188 Fichtelsberg, south of Zwickau, from Breitenbrunn heading for Oberwiesenthal take S273 then S271 through Rittersgrun then left to top. 14km, 3 hours
I freewheeled back to the car and came back over Fichtelsberg and droved south over the barren area into the Czech Republic and down through Jachymov with its old communist style block buildings and on to Ostrov and joined the motorway for a very quick drive west passing Karlovy Vary. It would have been interesting to stop to see if the town has changed much since our last visit in 1985. I remember the spa and ‚taking the waters‘ – also taking the waters of a public lavatory that collapsed on me when i pulled the chain, much to the amusement of Karel, Vlasi’s son who we were with on a few days out from Dresden. The toilet ladies weren’t amused though. Their job was to stand at the toilet entrance giving out rationed pieces of toilet paper to the users entering. CSSR, as it was then known was saving money on toilet paper but now they would have to repair a toilet. It’s a wonder I wasn’t sent to a Gulag! None stop on the motorway though, I would just remember it. Soon i was in Cheb then parked at Schirnding just over the Bavaria border. I phoned Heiko to say i would be very late as it was 20.00 now.
He was so surprised that I was telephoning and wasn’t expecting me to arrive in Amberg until tomorrow evening. He was working and had to tomorrow. When I rang him he was with a patient, maybe performing surgery as he immediately told me he would ring me back in a few minutes as he had to find a colleague to cover for him. I was embarrased again. He rang me back to assure me that to meet tomorrow evening would be fine to meet at his home, as arranged and he looks forward to my visit but did I not realise I was a day ahead of my planned itinerary ? It gradually dawned on me that I was! I had made allowance to stay with Hans longer and only visit Schmilka and the climb of the Groβer Winterberg that day. The climbs in Ertzgebirge were meant to be visited tomorrow – Wednesday then the climbs on the Czech border to the east of Regensberg on the following dsay. Now I was a whole day forward. It really was a long day too! I apologised and said I would visit Schwarzrigel, Arber and Pancir tomorrow then drive west to Amberg. The following day I would drive further east. That evening I drove south from Schirdning through Mitterteich where I was tempted to eat at a pizzeria but thought it best to drive on for Cham. The route was now through Weiden and Oberviechtach to reach Cham. It was raining again a good part of the way but glad it was dry while i was in Cham, sleeping in the car in a car park just off the main road by the Rege river bridge leading up into the centre of the town. I wandered up into the town and bought donor and chips, being the only place open after 22.00. It really was a long day – too long, and didn’t take long to nod off in the car. Breitenbrunn, Schwarzenberg, Aue, Adorf, Weiden, Cham, Furth im Wald 204km, 127 miles, 3 hours
Total 11 hours, 11.00 – 22.00
Wednesday 22nd May
Early start from Cham as there was nowhere open to buy a coffee let alone a breakfast. I had a walk around the town centre, a cobbled area around a church on the hill. Next to it is one of the colourful Bavarian poles with emblem shields hanging down the sides of the length. On top was a large tree branch. The area here is picturesque. I took the main road for Furth Im Wald but there were diversions so had to take smaller roads, slow going because articulated lorries also had to take the same route, I’m sure the locals in the villages weren’t pleased. In Furth by the rail station I found a cafe open at 08.00 and enjoyed a good breakfast for 4.90€. this set me up for my first climb shortly after. From Furth to Rimbach due south, a very nice but expensive looking hotel here on the left, the only real activity in the small village. I turned round in the road because I knew I had to take a road off to the left 1km before reaching the village from the north, this would lead to Schwarzriegel.
BIG 189 Schwarzriegel, east of Regensberg near Czech border. Southeast of Furth in Wald near Czech border on Rembach/Kotzling road. Start at Furth Im Wald road St 2161 Aussere, Kutzingerstraβe for Rimbach then right on Diensthuttenweg. From Furth 8km, 2 hours
Before taking the turn off before Rimbach I cycled along the road between Furth and Rimbach, then to the right. Coming from Furth this is an acute turn to the left for Eschlkam. I made sure the climb to Schwarzriegel wasn’t along this road before striking off up the hillside to the forest on the lower slopes. I soon reached a road sign indicating a 14% steep rise and knew this must be the correct road. At the top there is a track off to the left that leads to a simple café in the woods and direction indicator board. Further on the road skirts the side of the hill and slowly descends to the Regen valley again. I continued on along Diensthuttenweg then a right turn along Grenzweg to Jagerriegel then left to Schwarzriegel and the two stout towers. At first I had only reached Burgstall. Back to the car parked at a side road on the left just north of Rimbach then drove on for Lam, a turning to the left just before reaching Kotzting. Drive Furth, Rimbach, Kotzting to Lam 22km, 15 miles, 30 minutes. I parked up at a road junction between Lam and Lohrberg and biked the scenic road through the forest past Lohrberg mountain animal zoo and a large rock to the left of the road, called Beethoven Rock. There’s a viewpoint here but pointless stopping as there was low cloud and had now started raining. The road was now down slightly to reach the road junction off to the left for Bayerisch Eisenstein. I stayed on the same road and came to the foot of the at the bottom cable car station.
BIG 190 Groβer Arber, east of Regensberg near Czech border. Lam then road ST2154 for Bodenmais to the top. From Lam 24 km, 3 hours
I freewheeled down to the lakeside and asked in the restaurant for directions. I should have continued further on the road for Bodenmais and I would have come to the top of the pass, instead I took notice of the instructions I was given and took the first left through an archway back up the hill on the left on the way back to the cable car station. All this was is a walking circuit that brought me back again in a circular, very nice path through the woods though! Perhaps he meant further up towards the cable car station? I continued until I reached there but still no way up so continued on back to the road junction for Bayerisch Eisenstein. Here there is a wide track off to the left that led to the top of the Groβer Arber itself, never mind the road pass, this was higher! It was tough going though along a rough track but not too steep so was able to cycle most of the way. The top cable car station was shrouded in thick fog and by now it was raining more. I took shelter for a while in the cable car station and also asked there to have a card ink rubber stamped just for the record. Later I walked the bike the short steep narrow and rocky path surface to the globe and cross at the top but there was no view. I took some photos then turned back. I had to be careful on the way down as the track has many loose stones. I was glad of the mountain bike and good brakes. I was so cold – and very wet – when I arrived back at the road junction. I had a large coffee followed by a gluhwein in the café off to the left, rested a while then rode back to Beethoven Rock and back downhill to the car. From Lam over side of Groβer Arber to Bayerisch Eisenstein 22km, 15 miles, 30 minutes. From there I took the road off to the left to the border town and parked up at a side road off to the left in front of the Tourist Information Office. From here in the late afternoon I cycled over the unmanned border crossing to Zelezna Ruda for Pancir from the south for the next climb. I took the wrong road. What was meant to be the last climb was my penultimate climb as I stayed on the main road heading north for Klatovy instead of veering off to the left in Zelezna Rud for Spicak and Pancir. On the main road at the top of the rise 5km from Zelezna Ruda I took a right on road 190 thinking this was the way for the Pancir and seeing a place name entirely different, Narodni Park Sumuva. I should have checked the map before I started! Back down to the Czech town then up through Spicak. I crossed under the railway three times as the track negotiates its climb up through the valley and finally reached Spicake Sedlo. There’s a café here and off to the right the indication for Pancir. Most of the way up is though wooded areas.
There’s a left turn further along where the way to the top is steeper, then a building higher up looming out of the fog with a large flat wheel pulley with cable doubling back down the hill, the top of a rudimentary cable way. Here at the top is an old café but everything was closed today in the bad weather. I took a photo before my camera packed in. It had become damp and the lens wouldn’t close properly resulting in lens error. I was a bit miffed because I left the other camera in the car.
BIG 841 Pancir, (Czech Republic). Take road north again heading for Nyrsko, through Spicak take a right, later a left fork then second left to the top. From Zelezna Ruda 14km, 3 hours
I freewheeled back down to the Czech town where I noticed it was possible to buy loads of duty free goods. Wooden windmills seemed to be the star attraction. I wasn’t going to stop, couldn’t fit one of those in the rucksack. Back to the car and I texted Heiko at 19.00pm from Bayerisch Eisenstein to say I was just about to leave for Amberg. He estimated it would take me 2.5 hours to reach him. I drove south to Regen then west through Cham and Schwandorf to Amberg arriving at 21.30. I sent a text from a car park in front of a big store where I was parked having arrived in the town from the main road in, I was completely lost but to make matters worse at first I couldn’t find my mobile. After a 10 minute panic and the thought of another night spent in the car when I needed warm food and a warm bed, I found it jammed between the two front seats by the handbrake. He told me to stay there and would come out to meet me in 5 minutes. (He was that near?). He phoned me from the Burger King restaurant from across the road and I met him there, parked up and he and his son Finn greeted me. Finn sat with me in my car while Heiko led the way back to his home. I greeted his family, his lovely with and two daughters and I must have smelt! I badly needed a bath and change so did that first. Carmen was very kind and made me macaroni with salad, a couple of beers to wash it down. Later Heiko and I in his study talked until the early hours on arrangements for the Jurgens Reckhaus memorial ride in Eastern Europe in August. At first I wasn’t so sure about joining them but it made sense to me that precious time will be saved finding the climbs and directions between when I can’t possibly understand road signs in the Slavic languages and that the planning of the tour was so precise. It would also be so much easier for me to ride in good company, and safer also. I didn’t take much convincing. A few days after arriving home I mailed Heiko to say if he can put up with my slow cycling I would like to join him and others. Bed that night (morning) was 03.00!
07.00 – 21.30, 14.5 hours
Thursday 23rd May
(original plan was Zelenza Ruda, north to Klatovy, east via Strakonice and Vodnany to Cesky Krumlov. 155km, 97 miles, 2.5 hours. From there cycle BIG 842 Klet then continue south over the Austrian border at Bad Leonfelden and drive to aigen and cycle Moldaublick and over to Ulrichsberg and back to Aigen then drive on to Stubaital south of Innsbruck - Drive Cesky Krumlov, Wullowitz (Austria) , Rainbach then take a right (west) for Summerau, Aigen 90km, 56 miles, 1.5 hours, drive Aigen, Passau, Burghausen, Freilassing, autobahn through Rosenheim, Kufstein, Innsbruck to Schonberg for Stubaital 352km, 222 miles, 5 hours. Because I added Auesberg and Fischelsberg into the same day as Groβer Winterberg this was amended. On reflection I knew that I needed two days to cycle Mutterbergalm and Nebelhorn, one day to cycle both would be too arduous.
I left Amberg after Carmen’s wonderful breakfast at 09.00 and put petrol in the car before leaving the town. It was a long drive to return east, to Schwandorf then took the autobahn to Regensburg and on to Passau, reaching there at 11.30. The weather was wonderful today after so much rain and fog the past few days but this would be short lived – it would be even worse tomorrow – snow forecast! Today was glorious! Passing over the Austrian border at Wegscheid then scenic Austrian farmland country up and down gentle hills through villages Kollerschlag, Peilstein and Julbach to Ulrichsberg. I parked here before a garage and crossroads on the road to Klaffer and cycled up to Moldaublick through Lichtenberg to the hotel and outward bound complex Schoneben. From Ulrichsberg the road dips before ascending up through Lichtenberg, from there it more steeply up to Schoneben where the road to Moldaublick skirts the mountainside on an anti clockwise route passing the first forest tower, Alpenblick then a swing to the left to reach the second tower at Moldaublick. Alpenblick can be seen on the way up from Lichtenberg. The wooden café building was closed at Moldaublick. For the tower itself beyond that there is a metal barrier at the bottom of the steps and by inserting a euro into the slot the turnstile pushes so the tower can be ascended. I asked some walkers to take my photo and I took a few more then headed back to Schoneben, only slightly down at 50 metres. Halfway I took a look at Alpenblick tower, again, a metal turnstile for the steps up to the viewpoint. I returned back down to the car the same way as the route to Aigen is along a track, route 802
BIG 636 Moldaublick. (Austria) 1023m Between Ulrichsberg and Aigen to the south. From Aigen through Berghaus, Grunwald off Bohmerwald Landstraβe on road L590. Do a circular over to Ulrichsberg and back to car. From Aigen, 2 hours
Back at the car I set the sat-nav to Cesky Krumlov and that was a mistake because I was guided by the soothing German ladies voice to the edge of the huge lake through which the Danube flows (Moldau or Vltava in German and Czech). There’s a ferry for Horni Plana on the other side then the direct route from there to Cesky Krumlov but there was no sign of life on the other side of the lake for a ferry to come and collect. The route back over Schoneben in the car then on to a much narrower road crossing the border was very interesting. Passing places exist on the road across low lying country to reach the lake at Blizsi Lhota where the only sign of life is a carefree drinking from a quiet pub at the road junction leading down to where the ferry should be. There’s a ticket machine to the left of the jetty but after staring across the water, no sign of life so I turned the car round and headed back over Sconeben and took a right turn in Ulrichsberg for Aigen, St Oswald, Haslach, Vorderweiβenbach and Bad Leonfelden then headed north over the border and through Vyssi Brod and followed the bank of the Danube up to Cesky Krumlov. I had to ask the way in the town how to reach the mountain, Klet but of course no English. I had to ask the best I could in German. I was directed to Srnin north east of the town and opposite the rail station at Zlata Koruna take the track that would lead directly to Klet. I left the car by the Koruna restaurant/station building then set off along the tracks through the woods to Kokotin on track 1135 for 6km. hostinec na letne track E10. At first it was straight forward and I could see that if I kept in the same direction I would meet a road, number 1166, that would take me to Klet. However I tried to be clever and keep in the same direction along the tracks. I reached the road then took a right off that, the same direction I started from, came to Kokotin then off to the right – a mistake – after a kilometre the track was going down again and I could see ahead it was only lower ground so I turned back to Kokotin and took the track to the left in front of the farm building. Sure enough there was the sign for Klet. I continued on up along here, reached a crossing of tracks at Mouckova after 12km. Klet was now signposted as 2km away. I reached another point, slightly down then a steep up at Spojce. It was track all the way but I finally reached Klet 1084 metres and took some photos and had ten minutes up there taking in the view. I had an hour of daylight left and prayed that I would arrive back at the car back along the tracks before dark. I managed it but only just. I went back the very same way, had to.
I could have risked taking the road down but could I be sure I’d have the correct road, better to trust what I knew.
BIG 842 Klet (Czech Republic) 1083m climb starts from Cesky Krumlov Direction: In Cesky Krumlov at north part of town over river at Latran take road to Miru which becomes Vysenska then later right at Vysny, another left then right. Mast and grey tower marks the top. From Cesky Krumlov 12km, 2.5 hours
From Cesky Krumlov I drove in the dark back into Austria retracing the road that follows the bank of the Danube and through Vyssi Brod and Bad Leonfelden. I tried a restaurant just before the border at 22.00 in Studanky but they had just closed. I now took the road for Linz directly south. I found my way into the city, no problem but what I really wanted was something to eat before finding somewhere to stay but it was nearly midnight so not much hope of that. I found a doner cafe in the city and parked there on the main street. They were just closing but i was in time to buy what was still available. I had a weinerschnitzel and coleslaw with a couple of beers that i didn’t touch until i found somewhere quiet to park up for the night on a back street. It didn’t take long, found a small road away from street lighting and my food was still hot so changed to the passenger seat, got out what I needed for a night’s kip in the car and settled down. Only disturbance was a person driving into his automatic up and over garage door opposite and eyeing me up suspiciously and an hour later in total darkness a cat jumping over the glass roof of the car, that made me jump. Reclined the passenger seat to sleep in, earplugs in, blindfold on and slept peacefully until dawn.
Total 16 hours, (09.00 – 01.00)
Friday 24th May
I woke at 06.30 and set the sat-nav for Innsbruck. Immediately I was directed away from the quiet suburb road where I spent the night and into the bustle of a busy city just waking up with hundreds of cars and people everywhere on their way to their working day. It wasn’t as casual as last night. Everybody was in a rush to meet their appointments. I had to go careful through the city streets as people were running across the road and motorists taking uneccessary risks on their way to where that had to be. It was a relief to get on to the autobahn and to be following the indication for Salzburg and Innsbruck. Between Linz and Salzburg I stopped to have freshen up at an autobahn restaurant, posh toilets where there was music playing, I could even have a shower there for a euro, ah luxury! Feeling so much better and wide awake now I wandered across the lorry park to a transport cafe and enjoyed ham and eggs and plenty of coffee. Totally re-juvinated I rejoined the autobahn and reached Salzburg but not into the city, I stayed on the autobahn following the Innsbruck signs. The sat-nav took me off the autobahn and on a more direct route through Bad Reichenhall, and bad it was as the weather had changed. From Linz to this point it had been bright, sunny and warm now for the rest of the day I would have rain, and worse. Sat-nav guided me on through Lofer where I remember climbing the Durchkaiseralm some years back. I recognised the road i had cycled from St Johann. Now I was driving it in reverse and rejoined the autobahn at Kitzbuhel. It wasn’t any quicker on the direct route from Salzburg as I had to contend with slow lorries before me, probably better to have stayed on the autobahn. I now reached Inntal and drove along the valley reaching Innsbruck at 11.30. I parked up at a MacDonalds restaurant just over the Europa Bridge in Schonberg. Now I know the climb for Mutterbergalm starts in Innsbruck but I really didn’t want to cycle in the rain among heavy traffic over the Europabruck, it was too risky. I noticed there was a 2.50€ toll for motorists heading into the Stubaital. I cycled down a little through Meiders then started the gradual ascent passing Fulpmes and stopped at the roadside and small car park information office and picked up a Stubai guide brochure that would be useful along the road for a more detailed map. At this point the rain went off. I prayed in Innsbruck that it would – and it did. I wasn’t specific enough in asking though because I sensed snowflakes. Sure enough by the time i reached Neustift it was sticking. It made a great photo at the signboard for Hotel Eidelweiss. At Gasteig the climb to Mutterbergalm really begins. The rise suddenly begins at a pub on the right at Ranalt then I was in winter wonderland, no more buildings just fir trees heavily laden with snow.
The sky was white and snow was dropping with more force the further up I went. Funny enough I wasn’t cold. My body temperature was up with the exercise and was really exhilarating. I was in summer vest and cycle shorts but passing through the two avalanche shelters and facing the higher valley there was wind and i needed to put on the long sweater. Approaching the Mutterberg cablecar station I was amazed by the force of the waterfall to the right. Riding past the cablecar station I propped the bike up at the larger nameboard for Dresdner Hutte and took some photos of the bike in the snow. I was getting a bit cold now off the saddle so took a look round the ski and gift shop in the station complex, bought a post card of the Mutterbergalm with an inked rubber stamp mark then put on all my available clothing for the descent. I had two rain jackets, a hood, bike helmet and gloves so I was ready for the descent. I took photos in front of the Mutterbergalm Hotel, the large signs there certainly spells out the name in huge letters on a long bow of wood. It took me about an hour to get back to Schonberg. I was fortunate that the snow eased on the way down and it wasn’t raining lower down however when I reached the car it started raining. How wonderful is that? Skirting round the edge of Innsbruck and driving along the valley to the west past Zirl it was serious rain again.
BIG 615 Mutterbergalm, Austria. South of Innsbruck. From Schonberg. 40km, 7 hours
Drive autobahn Schonberg , Innsbruck to Telfs where it finally stopped raining and dry for the remainder of the day except for a flurry of snow at the the Fernpass south of Lermoos. I bought two ham and cheese on toast and two coffees here. I needed something after the Mutterbergalm experience.I asked inside and was told that the same weather was expected again tomorrow. That was disappointing as I wanted to ride the Nebelhorn. I continued on the main road Lermoos in dry conditions. Took a wrong turning at Bichelbach and ended up in Berwang. I remember this from a previous year’s cycling with the fantastic views across to the Zugspitze ahead of me on the descent, Germany’s highest mountain. It was a wonderful scene as I cycled further on nearer to the Zugspitze to Ehrwalderalm but today i couldn’t see the mountain because of the low cloud. On now to Reuttethen a quiet back road to Weissenbach. I was getting tired now and needed to rest so took half an hour at Halden See to doze for a while. I filled up with petrol at Zoblen at the foot of the Oberjoch Pass, another pass cycled from the Sonthofen side a few years ago. I stopped at the top to remember it then slowly descended the many hairpins to Sonthofen. I hadn’t the concentration to continue on to Obertsdorf for the Nebelhorn climb tomorrow so began looking for accommodation in the town.
I tried in Hindalang first at the foot of the Oberjoch and found a pension asking for 50.00€ for bed and breakfast. I thanked the lady, her young daughter spoke English, but also needed to find somewhere to eat and there was nowhere. I continued on into Sonthofen and tried several places but all bezetzten so bought at MacDonalds and sat in then made my way back to Hindalang and requested the room. That evening I enjoyed a long shower, sorted my rucksack out and slept well from midnight. 180km, 112 miles, 3 hours.
Total 15.5 hours, (06.30 – 22.00)
Saturday 25th May
I enjoyed a really good breakfast at Hindalang and of course prepared a doggy bag for later. I wasn’t in a rush to get away this morning and relaxed in the room for a while. At 09.30 drove through Sonthofen to Obertsdorf and parked up a kilometre from the town in the nearest lay-by opposite the swimming baths. I had to ask at the tourist information for the road up to Nebelhorn as I went wrong the first time. What I did first off was to take the road to the right of the ski-jump and a steep road up at Kuhberg but this only took me to Oytal and an upper valley. It’s very pleasant cycling country but only follows the mountain stream. Great walking country too with benches along the way. I came back to the start of the valley where there was an indication for the Nebelhorn. Lifting the electric fence clip I pushed the bike through and cycled the loose stones. Shortly though I reached larger stones on the path making it difficult to cycle. I reached a concrete bridge spanning a water outlet forming a small waterfall, coming from waterworks above I found out later. I couldn’t get any further with the bike so turned bike, this couldn’t be the way. I later found out that if I had gone a little further I would have emerged on the correct road. I turned back, asked at the tourist information and given a scribbled paper with road names to follow. I asked a couple along the way in the town. They directed me well. They were Dutch be he was South African. In the course of conversation I found out that he had a timeshare at Mabula Game reserve. This was the first time I had met anybody else who had been there. They go at least once a year and never tire of the place. We shared our experiences. I was now on the correct road. The way up is to the left of the ski-jump on a narrow road that at first goes under the seating area then emerges by a waterfall to the right then up in a series of hairpins up through the woods. The road is a good surface but not particularly steep at this point. I reached the middle cable-car station. There’s a small country museum and a pub there that serves meals in wood rooms. I continued up, taking the right hand road as the left fork is only a footpath – I asked a walker. From here the next ½ kilometre is easy enough to reach the end of the upper valley at some wooden information boards of wildlife that can be seen in the area. From this point the road veers to the left and rises steeply. There was plenty of snow on the ground from this point on, the higher I went the whiter it was and there were raised banks on the side of the road. I can see now why members of the BIG strongly suggest riding this mountain on a mountain bike. The following rise up was long and very steep. I reached a wind turbine after a left bend and series of hairpins. There were walkers on the road finding the climb difficult and for sure I was in my lowest gear but soon had to walk. Following the wind turbine there is a right turn to reach a section where the road goes through an area with a steep wall of rocks on either side. At this point the road was totally blocked by snow. The walkers ahead were walking through it knee deep. I was told by a walker with his sat-nav that we were 350 metres from the top cable-car station. This was disappointing but of course I couldn’t continue further. He went on and I took some photos at this position ten carefully freewheeled down pumping the brakes on the steep section. It wasn’t only the steepness but the road was wet also. I called in at the café for a drink but it was so long coming that I gave up and carried on down into Obertsdorf and back to the car
BIG 192 Nebelhorn, Germany. From Obertsdorf, south of Kempten. Direction: In Obertsdorf east Am Faltenbach becomes Schanzenstraβe after Schattenberg Ski station, road goes to top. 9km, 3 hours
At 15.30 Drive Obertsdorf and bypassing Sonthofen under a bridge crossing the east-west road from Oberjoch , then take the autobahn from Immenstadt through Kempten, Memmingen to Westhausen then east on main road through Nordlingen to Hussingen then left for Wassertrudingen. 265km, 165 miles, 4 hours
Cycled Wassertrudingen to Hesselberg and return 17.30 to 19.00 Left the car in a small car park in Wassertrudingen then cycled 6km to Gerolfingen on a gentle incline, a road with far distant views south and to the north the green range of the Hesselberg. In Gerolfingen, just past the church, took a right indicated Hesselberg and took a video while cycling of much of the route and sent it to Heiko for his son Finn. I also placed it on my website when I returned home. The ride to the Hesselberg is in complete contrast to the ride up to Nebelhorn earlier today. The tours couldn’t be so different. The weather here was bright, sunny and warm even though it was early evening. I could see the mast at the top for most of the ride from Wassertrudingen but now near the top it was huge. I passed this and reached the mound at the top with the circular stone. From this point there is an uninterupted view for many miles in every direction. It was worth a long pause at the top before returning back the same way. I was impressed by the pole and shields in Gerolfingen so took a photo.
BIG 164 Hesselberg, south west of Nuremberg between Wassertrudingen and Wittelshofen go right along Hesselbergstraβe road AN48 at west of village of Gerolfingen, 3km, 1 hour
Back in Wassertrudingen I changed into other clothing for another night in the car but first had a meal in a pizzeria, bratwurst and chips with a light beer. At about 20.00 I set the sat-nav for Balingen and was directed west through Gerolfingen, Dinkelsbuhl and Crailsham then on to autobahn to Heilbronn then south and still on the autobahn passing Stuttgart and Tubingen and arriving in Balingen off the autobahn at 22.00. I parked up in a side street from the town centre in a quiet spot where there were no street lights, my resting place for the night. First of all though I went to find a café to eat and perhaps have a couple of beers to help me sleep. I had a pizza followed by a couple of cakes and two dunkel beers. At this time of the day there wasn’t any choice for hot meals and could only offer this, but it was plenty. From there I wandered back down the town street to the car and sleep. 243km, 152 miles, 4 hours 09.30 – 23.45
Sunday 26th May
Woke at 07.00 and walked the pedestrianised street in search of a café and a place to freshen up. Walked to the top of the road but nowhere open. At the top I found out later I take a turn half left on to Wilhelm Krautstrasse that leads to the Lochenpass. For now I walk the street the other way and arrive at the rail station. This was the direction I came from the autobahn last night. There were no cafes open along here but some bread shops were preparing to open. There’s a town map by the car park in front of the station. This helped me understand the area better and I could see where I was in relation to the autobahn, main street and my goal, the Lochenpass. I walked back to the car and found there was a café open now on the corner of the street where I had parked the car. I shaved, etc then had a full breakfast, 9.50€. After an hour in here I was well prepared for my ride to the Lochenpass. I drove along Wilhelm Krautstrasse a short distance until outside of Balingen and parked on the right in a lay-by in an open clearing and unloaded the bike. While unloaded an older chap cycling passed me and said ‘Guten morgen’ I soon caught him up and we cycled together to the Lochenpass. I was impressed, he was 78 years old and lives in Balingen and rides the mountain often. Today he was making a circuit via Tuttlingen and Rottweil. He didn’t speak any English but was patient in his German and we had a good laugh on the way up. He pointed out the Lochenpass rock just above the car park on the right at the top of the pass. We would have to leave the bikes to walk to the rock for the view. On the other side of the road is the jugendherberge, youth hostel. This is the very top of the pass and asked him to take photos of me in front of the Lochenpass nameboard on the wall there. After that he wished me ‘gute fahrt’ and carried on over the other side of the pass. I took another photo at the metal post on the other side of the road indicating Lochenpass then turned back the same way down the road. It was a clear sunny day today, good views at the top and on the way down however my temporary friend told me it would rain later today.
BIG 175 Lochenpass, south of Stuttgart In Balingen take Wilhelm Krautstraβe heading south on road L440 to Tieringen, 9km from Balingen, 2.5 hours.
I returned back to Balingen and drove through Rottweil, Schramberg, Wolfach and Zell to Oberharmersbach, 74 km, 46 miles, 1.5 hours. Sure enough my friend was right, it was raining, in fact it was lashing down. I parked the car in front of the town hall and donned all rainwear. Leaving the village the road is easy with only a slight incline for the first two kilometres.
The next six kilometres to the top of the Locherbergwaβen was steep with some bends but it was up through the shelter of woods so was sheltered from much of the rain so could loosen the rainwear on the way up. Reaching the top there’s a small wooden cafe at the top, a serving hatch and seats outside and also a rough wooden room to the right of the hatch where there were many people crammed in sheltering from the rain. I stood by the serving hatch drinking a gluhwein and watching the rain wondering what to do next. I really didn’t want to cycle any distance in the heavy rain. This was the worst the weather had been the whole holiday. I took some photos and returned back to Oberharmersbach.
BIG 169 Locherbergwaβen, between Strasbourg and Stuttgart. Direction; between Oberharmersbach and Ibach road L94. Talsstraβe from Oberharmersbach. Junction of roads at top.From Oberharmersbach 4km, 1 hour
It was only about 16.00 but couldn’t continue further north for another road pass climb in atrocious weather conditions so drove back over the Locherbergwaβen and continued on through Oppenau, Wahlholz and Ruhestein to Mummelsee. I was hoping to cycle from Oppenau to Schliffkopf if the rain eased but it didn’t, in fact it became progressively worse. It was now a real heavy snowshower – a blizzard. Driving on the narrow road to Ruhestein then the Schwartzwald Hochstraβe – Black Forest Highway – was tricky and had to drive very slowly. The blizzard eased in the evening but it put paid to my cycling for today. I was glad I still had tomorrow to fall back on to complete the remaining three BIG’s before returning to Cologne the following day. For the remainder of the day I would enjoy the sauna and steam room in the Mummelsee Berghotel. I drove through the blizzard and parked at the hotel and booked in. It’s expensive at 75€ bed and breakfast but i would have the remainder of the day and part of the following morning here and enjoy the facilities. I had a meal in the hotel later and settled down for an early night. It was so good to have the comfort of a hotel after sleeping in the car most nights.
Total 7 hours, 09.00 – 16.00
Monday 27th May
The sauna opened at 08.00 so took advantage of that for an hour, showered then after an excellent breakfast and stocked up with a doggy bag I paid the bill and drove down to Oppenau and parked in the town then cycled the route I drove in the blizzard yesterday. It was so different this morning. It was sunny, warm and a deep blue sky so perfect conditions to enjoy the ride up to Schliffkopf. I planned a circuit that would take in the Hornisgrinde climb later. My route was Oppenau, Wahlholz, Ruhestein, Schliffkopf and return the same way then take the road to the right from Oppenau 10km to Buhlbachsee and cycle the Schwartzwald Hochstraβe past Schliffkopf to Mummelsee and the Hornisgrinde and return the same way, total 100km, 60 miles. The way up from Oppenau to begin with is again through woods – well this is the Black Forest! Past Maierhof the road dips to a stream then rises again to reach the viewpoints between the Ottenhofen turn to Ruhestein. My opinion is this area is more worthy of the BIG than the Schliffkopf but then of course it’s about 100 metres lower. At Ruhestein a turn to the right on the Black Forest Highway to reach the Schliffkopf Hotel. The top of the pass is a short distance off the road behind the hotel. Going past the hotel I took the dusty path to the right just after the building and after about 200 metres reached the stone with distance markers that indicate the places around and distances radiating out from this point.
BIG 168 Schliffkopf, between Strasbourg and Stuttgart. Direction: between Bad Peterstal-Greisbach and Ottenhofen or Oppenau and Ottenhofen on road number 500 From Ottenhofen 17km, 3 hours
I took a few photos here and at the wooden cross nearby then back along the scrubland path back to the hotel and a short rise back up to Ruhestein then freewheeled back down to Oppenau the same way. The road always seems so completely different going the other way. Back to the car and ate some food from the doggy bag and checked the map to make sure I knew my turn off for the road to Buhlbachsee. I found this road was a stiff climb from Oppenau at 277 metres to Roβbuhl at 963 metres. There are steep sections in the 9km distance and was hot work getting there. This was the toughest section of the circuit. Later climbing the Hornisgrinde was a lot easier. Once I reached the Black Forest Highway it was a short rise back to Hotel Schliffkopf and the stone on the left beyond that marks the highest part of the main road along the ridge. From here down to Ruhestein then up again from Seibelseckle to Mummelsee.
I stopped off at the chapel to sit in silence for a while and reflect on the holiday so far then passed the hotel to the metal pole drop barrier at the foot of the Hornisgrinde. I was relieved that no traffic could drive this way so had a peaceful climb to the top.
BIG 167 Hornisgrinde between Strasbourg and Stuttgart. Direction: Between Ottenhofen (south) and Sasbachwalden through Seebach on road number 500 Ruhesteinstraβe, to the right at Mummelsee. Tower and mast at top. From Ottenhofen 15km, 3 hours
The sides of the road and beyond were packed with snow from the blizzard yesterday. The snow on the road had melted sufficiently so was no problem negotiating the short climb from Mummelsee to the top. I walked the metal steps to the top of the Bismarkturm viewpoint tower near the wind turbine and asked walkers to take a photo of me near to this with the bike. Back to the old square lookout tower and the remains of the French fortifications and read the boards that describe the period after the war when the French Army used this area as a military base. From this point I descended again and back down to the car the same way. Later I returned up to Mummelsee to buy some gifts for home, write postcards to Ruth and to Morreys to thank them for a brilliant bike they sold me! At 14.00 set off from Mummelsee and down to the autobahn heading for the last climb, Katzenbuckel east of Heidelberg. I set the sat-nav for Eberbach and the route took me from Hornisgrinde to Katzenbuckel 160km through Buhlertal, passing Baden-Baden on the autobahn north to the Heilbronn autobahn junction south of Heidelberg then off this at Dielheim and small roads to Meckersheim, Haag and down to Eberbach over the Neckar bridge 100 miles, 2.5 hours. It seemed a circuitous route once I left the autobahn but once on the lanes I didn’t know where I was! It would have been quicker and less complicated to stay on the autobahn to Heidelberg then go east along the Neckar valley to Eberbach but then the sat-nav knows best. Perhaps there were traffic conditions in the Heidelberg area.
BIG 183 Katzenbuckel, east of Mannheim. Start from Antonslust on Eberbach-Mudau-Buchen road. Direction: Between Neckargerach (south) and Eberbach on road L634. At Oberdielbach go north (right) then left at Waldkatzenbach, 11km, 3 hours
I parked on a roadside lay-by along the Neckar valley just to the south of Eberbach. First I tried to find a place to park in the town but it was too busy so better a kilometre or so away. From there I cycled into Eberbach and took the old road that was almost traffic free from by the side of the hospital in the town. It was indicated Alte Dielbacherstraβe in Eberbach and Alte Eberbacherstaβe when I reached the other end of the road emerging at Unterdielbach. From there I took a right through Oberdielbach a left for Waldkatzenbach and a left turn in the village on to Rathausstraβe the right on to Katzenbuckelstraβe that leads to the wooded hill ahead, in the centre of which is the ancient volcano of Katzenbuckel. I took the right fork in front of the wood where there is a café and cycled the track around the woods anti-clockwise to a viewpoint, view west then shortly left and up the steeper track to the tower at the top. There are some steps that I took the bike up but there is a continuation on the track that doubles back to the tower. I asked a walker just coming down from the tower to take my photo and took a few more myself. There’s a small seated area in front of the tower so relaxed there for a while then made my way back down to the car. I took the main road way down, through Oberdielbach and into Eberbach. I had a look at the cobbled streets in front of the river then made my way back to the car and headed for Heidelberg along the Neckar valley road parked for the night on the back road, Gneisenaustraβe leading up the hill south of the Neckar. I walked down to river in search of somewhere to eat and found a pub called Hemingways on Fahrtgasse that served great meals. I had burger and chips and a dunkel beer for 10.90€ and continued on walking later along the bank of the river into the Aldstadt to the main bridge and back again. It was a long walk and on reflection should have lifted the bike out of the car and cycled it. I could have locked the bike at the pub. Having done the walk I could have eaten another meal! Back to the car after another stop along the way and slept the night peacefully on the quiet back road.
Tuesday 28th May
I left Heidelberg at 07.00 and set the sat-nav for Koblenz. I was guided by main road into Mannheim and amazed that the sat-nav took me directly through the centre of the busy city. I was caught up in the morning rush hour and in traffic queues behind buses and people in their cars on the way to work. It was amazing how the sat-nav guided me through but I would never have risked city streets without it. At one point though I took an incorrect turn and came into the entrance of the BASF factory in the city. The guard on the gate told me to take a ‘U’ turn through the entrance and said I was to take the next turn ahead for Koblenz. Soon I was on the autobahn to Bingen then for Koblenz and took the exit above St Goar. It was a beautiful sunny day and had time at 10.30 have one last bike ride. I parked in St Goar just south of the centre by an imbiss and biked along to the ferry for St Goarhausen. Road from St Goarhausen on Forstbachstrasse road L338, the road to Bornich and took a right turn on to Stedlung Lorely that led to the Lorely cliff after approx 4km. I stayed a while up here taking photos and admiring the view along the Rhine then back to the roundabout and down the hill towards St Goarhusen again but took a right on the way down for Patersberg. There are four hairpins on the road called Pionierweg that leads up to the village then it reaches a colourful entrance sign in wood at the entrance to the village. I was impressed with the brown and cream cottages that line the main street. Through the village on Herschelberg that leads to Rheinblick and a covered viewpoint called Dreibergblick in a field that overlooks the Rhine just north of Lorely and directly above St Goarhausen. My opinion is this area has a better view than Lorely. From Paterberg back down to St Goarhausen and the ferry back to St Goar and back to the car. I had a sausage and beer at the imbiss and walked down the steps to the Rhine next to the imbiss to enjoy the view from their wooden tables. I left St Goar at 14.30 and drove along the west bank of Rhine, took a video along the way. I by-passed Koblenz and took to the autobahn again to Bonn, on to Cologne. I arrived in Cologne at 16.15 but had to find out where to garage the car and book it in before the 17.30 deadline or I would be paying for a further day. I found Trankgasse, no problem, but that was the pick-up point. I parked at the point where I started off at the beginning of the holiday and asked at the Sixt office on the station where I should report back with the car. I was told to take a right then left and right again for the Hilton Hotel garage. Sixt Company shares the garage with the Hilton. I drove down the ramp, the metal shutter door opened automatically and I arrived, 17.06 – what’s the rush I had 24 minutes yet. I was in the garage an hour emptying the car, bagging the bike and filling my rucksack.
I used my trolley and wheeled everything to the pre-booked hotel, Stapelhauschen on Fischmarkt in Aldstadt just south of the Dom. It was OK, a bit basic but at least it had hot and cold rat running along the corridor before the eating area. My room was fine. The bike was left in its bag in the café area. My room was a bit musty but it was clean. I went out for a pizza and a few drinks to celebrate now that I was parted from the hired car. I slept well that night.
235km, 146 miles, 4 hours
Total 9.5 hours (08.00 – 17.30) returned car at 17.00
Wednesday 29th May
At 09.00 after a small breakfast I collected the bike in bag and struggled with it to the front of the hotel and loaded it on to the wheels. I then wheeled it to the station and had plenty of time. I made a huge mistake in taking it up on the escalator to the platform but I lost my grip and went hurtling down the escalator, bike following. Nothing damaged, I was alright and so was the bike. I checked it on the platform. Some people helped me to my feet on the escalator. I took a video on the station of an ICE train before mine arriving at the platform. My train was on time and I boarded, relieved to get the bike in up the carriage steps.
Return 11.43 Platform 6 Cologne Hbf ICE16 to Brussels Midi 13.35
Depart Brussels Midi 14.56, Eurostar EST 9141, arrive London St Pancras 15.57
Depart Euston 17.36, arrive Crewe 19.10.
Depart Crewe 19.50, arrive Holmes Chapel 20.02
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Details of car hire:
Your Rental Includes
* Unlimited Kilometres
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When you hire a car through rentalcars.com, your car rental agreement will normally include collision damage waiver & theft waiver. Collision Damage Waiver will waive your liability to pay for any damage caused to the vehicle during the period of hire. Theft Waiver provides coverage for the theft or damage resulting from attempted theft of the vehicle, its parts and accessories up to their full value and any loss that our car rental partner may incur. Both are subject to certain exclusions. Your liability is waived subject to you paying a charge, referred to as an “excess” which limits your liability to the cost of the excess only. In some instances, an excess will not apply and you will be advised of this at the time of making your booking.
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This is your car rental confirmation voucher
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Your Details
Name
Mr Kevin Speed
What's Included
Unlimited Kilometres , Insurance ( - Collision Damage Waiver - Theft Protection - 3rd Party Liability ) , Local Taxes , Airport Surcharge , Road Fee , Premium location fee
What you'll need to know
Fuel Policy - The vehicle is supplied with a full tank of fuel. It should be returned full or refuelling charges will be applied.
Payable at Depot
Special Offers
Requests will be forwarded to the vehicle supplier who will endeavour to fulfil your requirements
Customer Comments
Delivery/Collection
You haven't made any comments
Would like the biggest boot space allowable in Class
Additional information to supplier
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