Friday 25th June 2004, Home to Luton Airport
Ruth drove me to Crewe for 19.50 and I caught the 20.10 train to Milton Keynes, arriving at 21.27 on time. From there at 22.05 for a train to Leighton Buzzard, arriving at 22.35 — the closest I could get to Luton Airport at this time of the day.
I set out at 23.00 through Stanbridge and Tilsworth then onto the A5 through Dunstable then the A505 to Luton Airport, arriving at midnight. That was 24 km, 15 miles. I didn’t wear padded shorts and rode in ordinary longs but comfortable enough. I didn’t have any gloves but it wasn’t cold. It was dry weather for once and no wind.
Overall distance (ODO) start 709km, at Luton Airport 733 km
Leighton Buzzard is a lively place at night, and Dunstable. Stanbridge has its church and old village pub lit up, the same at Tilsworth nearby with its village green. At Stanbridge there is an army camp. I biked out from Tilsworth on to the A5 but it wasn’t too busy. Up Chalk Hill then down to Dunstable, nightlife and all the butterflies were out. It’s a busy wide main road past Luton. This skirts south of the town then steeply up to the airport to the noise of jets coming in to land. I had a croissant and hot chocolate at 00.25. 2.85 = 1.50 for the drink = £4.35 then sat and waited.
Saturday 26/6/04 Zurich to Flums
Trip distance today 95.17km, ride time 6 hours, average speed 16.O0kph (10mph), maximum speed (down the Pragel Pass) 59.00kph (37mph). ODO total 828km, trip altitude 1349 + 258m adjustment, 26 degrees, maximum altitude 1267 ± 258m on the Pragel Pass, average climb 6%, maximum climb 18%, total altitude 5393m
Started out from Schwyz at 13.30 and reached the top of the Pragel Pass (BIG No. 554) (Photo 4899) at 16.00, arrived in Flums at 17.30. It seemed to take ages to reach the top of the Pragel Pass and was very steep to begin with. Down the other side the road follows a lake for a distance into Glarus. There were no vacancies at the hotel in Waldenstadt but I left my bags there after having a coffee and biked up the Hochrugg (BIG No. 556). On to Flums and found a small hotel there for 45SF (€21.00) bed and breakfast. I had spaghetti carbonara and a Feldschlossen beer 16.00SF + 4.00SF then went up the road to draw 100 francs from a cash machine. In the village I watched the UEFA game between Holland and Sweden then went to bed at 23.00 and totally crashed out after no sleep the night before.
Sunday 27th June 2004 Flums to Dalmus, Austria
Not getting as far as I planned! This morning I biked up the Tannenboden (BIG No.571), (Photos 4900 to 4904) leaving my bags in the Flums gasthof. Later on I biked along a cycle path to Mels near to Sargans as I couldn’t find the final part of the cyclepath into Sargans. It was very warm as I passed on to Balzars over the Rhine (Photo 4905) and into Liechtenstein. I cycled the full length through Vaduz to Schaanwald then down to Feldkirch. Along to Gotzis through Rankweil then right by the church taking the red signs for to Mulrutti (BIG No. 601).(Photos 4906, 4907) I took photos near the top and rested the bike on a tree. I learned a hard lesson — never leave a bike leaning on a tree above a downward slope from the road. The bike and panniers fell a long way and I had to tread carefully through the bracken and loose earth on the steep slope to rescue them and drag them back up. One bag was a problem and took me a while to find it hidden under a tree. From Mulrutti back to the centre of Rankweil then took the road for the Furkajoch (BIG No. 602), (Photo 4909) turning right just outside Rankweil centre, helped by a local cyclist who told me it was very steep. It took me from 15.00 to 19.00 to reach the top of the Furkajoch. He was right, it is very steep! Up to Laterns and later on towards the end out of the Alpine valley. I rested a while then down the pass to Dalmus and found a gasthof after the second try. (Photo 4910) This was 29.00€. I had goulash, rice and salad with 2 beers and a Johannas beer. Watched the TV for a while then to sleep at 23.30.
Trip distance today 120.94km (75 miles), ride time 8 hours 44 minutes, 18 degrees at Dalmus in the evening, average speed 13.80 kph (8.5mph), maximum speed 60kph (down the Tanneboden Pass in 10 minutes), ODO total 949km, present altitude (Dalmus) 1421 + 103 adjustment. Furkajoch is 1761 metres, total alti 3047m
Monday 28/6/04 Dalmus to Biberweir
Trip distance 145km (90 miles), 21 degrees centigrade in the evening, ride time 8 hours 10 minutes, average speed
17.70kph (11mph), maximum speed 60kph (37.5mph), ODO total 1094km, 09.15 to 19.00, maximum climb 17%,
trip altitude 1942 metres, total altitude 4989 metres, maximum altitude 1669 metres (should be 1675 metres), average climb 4%, altitude now 1036, should be 1042.
From Dalmus down to Au, quite steep all the way down from Au to Schoppernal. The road is level and straight then the climb begins to the Hochtannberg Pass (BIG No.604) (Photos 4911, 4912) with clefts on either side, through avalanche shelters to arrive at Schrochen (Photo 4913) then the climbing really begins. At one point the road leaves the hillside and the flyover is supported on large columns. There is a final very steep section then an easy final 2km to the top, a bit unexciting. I met an elderly man and his wife cycling the other way to St Gallen where they live. He said it was too cold so was heading back home. They took my photo at the road height sign. It was only a short distance down to Warth. I bought some milk and bananas (1.60€) from the Spar shop then down to the river and following that slightly up to Lechleiten then down all the way to Stanzach. I took a photo of the church at Hagerau on the way. At Leux it started raining so took shelter under the roof of a house. A farmer was delivering cheese to the house where I was sheltering under the wide roof. He offered me some cheese as I ate my breakfast roll, I declined to buy some but his sample tasted good.
I could have taken the road from Stanzach to Namlos and over to Berwang to claim my next BIG but carried on along the valley to Reiden, along the lanes from the main road then to Reutte. From there along the main road to Lermoos, steely up out of Reutte then a sweep down to Heiterwang then Bickleback where I took the road up to Berwang, one hour to the top. At the end of the day I wished that I had taken the road to Namlos before as the road was closed from Lermoos to Imst over the Fern Pass due to road resurfacing. I would have reached Imst otherwise. On reaching Berwang (BIG No.605) (Photo 4914) the road narrows on the other side and climbs steeply to the top, however road works stopped me venturing further. Back down the pass and a long sweep down along the main road (Photo 4915) to Lermoos with a great view of the Zugspitze ahead. I enjoyed the ride across the flat area on the tracks across to Ehrwald. (Photos 4916 to 4918) I had a bratwurst and lager from a wooden stall on the main street at the start of the road up to the Ehrwalderalm (BIG No.611) (Photos 4919 to 4922) then took the road to the cable car station and through the gate in the woods to follow the cable car route on the left and climb steeply through the woods to the end of the road on the shoulder of the Zugspitze. The road ends just before the German border. It’s extremely steep through the trees and to a clearing at the top. Back down and along to the left and into Biberweir. I started off up the Fern Pass at 18.15 but only reached halfway. The police at a road junction ahead told me that the road was being resurfaced and it would not be possible to pass for a further two hours – at 21.00 - and I really didn’t want to arrive in Imst at an hour after that. I reluctantly returned to Biberweir and called at the first hotel on the left, Hotel Alpina. Room and breakfast here set me back 48€ and a further 12.50€ for an evening meal - 60€ or £42.00. This was a contrast to last night at 21€ for the room, total with meal £35 and included a telephone call to Ruth. Tonight I was disappointed not to have been able to pass over the Fern Pass to Imst and up the Hahntenn Pass but that will come tomorrow.
Tuesday 29th June 2004 Biberweir to Landeck
08.45 to 20.45 (no lies!) 12 hours
I was so glad that I booked a room in Landeck early this afternoon (or ‘land hits a corner’ as Google translator translates the German to English but then surely place names shouldn’t be translated?). Trip distance today 148.58km (93 miles), current height at Landeck 831 metres, current temperature (evening) 22ºC, ride time 9 hours 57 minutes, average speed 14.90kph, maximum speed 56.00kph (35mph), overall distance total (ODO) 1243km, trip altitude 3037 metres, maximum altitude 1905 metres (above Imst), average climb 6%, maximum climb 19% (at Pillarhohe), total altitude 11038 metres.
Because of yesterday’s disaster I couldn’t stay in Imst as planned but it didn’t take too long to reach the town as the Fern Pass is an easy option from the north but not from the south though and I was glad I wasn’t going that way. However that was my route in 1978 on a Carlton bike when I cycled from Landeck to Garmisch Partenkirchen via Seefeld – good gosh, 26 years ago! There are a couple of steep sections but early in the day these didn’t present great problems. I reached the point where the police car was parked yesterday afternoon. This was just before the halfway point to the Fern Pass. From there to just before the largest lake, the Blindersee, I could see why it would have been impossible to pass either side of the new asphalt section as there is a wall to the left and a steep drop to the lake on the other side. This was for only about 2km but it made a diversion via Garmisch and Seefeld the only practical way to reach Imst – and this was much too far. This morning I reached the top of the Fern Pass in half an hour then it was a long way down to Nassereith that isn’t obvious on the map, as it seems that the north side is steeper with its double chevrons. There was slight confusion at Nassereith but I soon worked out the way over to Imst. On my map there is no autobahn indicated but it really is an old map – I may have used it last time I was here! At Tarranz I checked out the road for Hahntenn Joch (BIG No.606) (Photos 4923 to 4925) and the climb started right away, a right turn off the main road then a bend to the right and straight up. From the start the climb is relentless. Leaving Imst the road continues up past spruce trees to beyond Linstertal into the clearing. I was further than I thought. The road continues with a rock wall to the left and a larch trunk fence to the right. At one point I thought I was nearly there when I saw the road ahead going down slightly but on reaching that I found it was a blip on the road’s snaking round the mountain to find the best way up even further. As I rounded that corner and down I could see the pass ahead, a true col with a dip shaped like a bra-less woman! My speedo was almost at the right height, it registered 1903 metres altitude so I corrected it later at the end of the day. It took me from 10.00 until 12.30 to reach the road summit but then who’s counting? I was a very enjoyable morning’s ride. I was back down in Imst half an hour late at 13.00 and had two pretty Austrian cyclists for company but the girls turned north at the bottom and I headed south along the road to Landeck. The route isn’t very interesting and wouldn’t recommend it as it’s also a very busy road but fortunately it was only 20km to Landeck along the valley road. On reaching there at 14.00 I found a hotel near the station (Hotel Mozart) and left most of the weight there and set off further west with only what I needed for the afternoon essentials. I had three BIGS before me that I wanted to conquer before the end of the day. The bike was now more responsive being lighter and made for easier riding. First of all I set off to climb the Fisserjoch (BIG No.608) (Photos 4926 to 4928) and this was really hard work in the heat. Leaving Landeck on the main road to reach the old Roman bridge over the river – or at least the base of it is – the top part is now a girder construction. Past the eagle of the Wars of the Liberation with the French 200 years ago and along a lane reminiscent of the Vale of Llangollen (!) and on to Prutz. From that point and back on the main road over a bridge, cyclists are not allowed on a stretch south of that point. Instead I had to take a road up east of the Inn to the chairlift station for Fendels then down to Reid, under the main road. From there began the stiff 7km climb to Fiss. On reaching there I filled up my flasks with a two-litre bottle of Coke (2.30€) for that caffeine I needed to give me a boost. I was exhausted after a hard climb in the heat. The road continues up in Fiss as an extension to Via Angers, to the left of the Seilbahn to reach for the clouds. I went along this someway but it’s much too steep to seriously ride any bike up there! Besides I can claim my pass conquest for the 7km rise to Fiss. The road along the ridge continues along to Serfeus but there is no climbing involved here as the road only continues round in the upper valley. I freewheeled back down the same way to Prutz and on to Kauns for the long steady climb just after the village to Weiβsee (BIG No. 612) that was fairly easy except for a steepsection leaving Prutz and again at Kaltenbrunn. An interesting ride along the scenic valley of the Kaunertal. The road rises steeply above the lake. Back down to Prutz then to Alter Zoll on the first hairpin 50 metres up after Neu Zoll off the main road for the last pass of the day. Continuing on up to the Pillarjoch (BIG No.609) (Photo 4929) and this was further than I thought. The map indicated the top at a height of 1349 metres but on reaching that point just above the straggling village of Fliess it was obvious I still had a way to go. The road up is very steep just past the castle and also very narrow. I finally reached the top at 13km from Neu Zoll at 1600 metres, not the 7km at a height of 1349 metres indicated on my map. I met another cyclist at the top who was doing the circuit up from Imst and down to Landeck, back to Imst. He willingly obliged to take my photo at the top. “Macht mein photo bitte?” “Kein problem!” I rode back down the same way and reached the hotel just before dark. I had a meal at a pub just across the road from my hotel; chips, steak, salad and bratwurst with beer and ice cream. This was called a Grillteller and I was full for 12€. I went to bed at midnight and took the beer back to the hotel and left the glass back on the pub table the following morning when I set out again.
Wednesday 30th June 2004 Landeck to Sellrain
Trip distance 114.35km, current altitude at 1265 metres in the evening, current temperature in the evening at 23ºC, ride time 7 hours and 44 minutes, average speed at 14.70kph, maximum speed at 71kph (45mph) – highest ever and this was descending the Rettenbach, ODO total 1357km, trip altitude, 2189 metres, maximum altitude, 2762 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 14%, total altitude 7179 metres.
I left Hotel Mozart at 08.20 for the train station. I had just missed the 08.31 to Haiming so will cycle back along the valley towards Imst. If I had waited for the next train it would not have benefited as I arrived before it as I made a good time along the valley, arriving at the head of Otztal at 10.10. I had mixed feelings about cycling from here to Solden and waited for a bus but gave it when it zoomed past my stop! I reached Solden in good time and really enjoyed the ride despite earlier misgivings. I enquired about a taxi to reach Rettenbach, the highest tarmac road in Europe but it goes nowhere – ends at the snowline. At the tourist information I found out I could get a minibus taxi up there for 32€. I decided to do the adventure as that’s what I had come for but it took me 3 hours to climb to the very end of the road,taking the right fork at the junction for Rettenbach (BIG No.613) (Photos 4930 to 4941) by the restaurant and reaching a point where I couldn’t cycle any further unless I fitted skis to the rims. The highest point is just over 3000 metres but unfortunately the road was closed for the final 250 metres by a snowdrift! Was this justice on me? I slowly cycled down after a long stay at the restaurant among an English party, and also taking in the view from the white chapel just along from the restaurant. On reaching Solden I boarded a bus at 17.00 as far as Oetz. My bike was securely clamped to the rear of the bus and I clambered aboard and slept for a while. From Oetz at 17.30 I set off up the Kuhtai Pass (BIG No.610) (Photo 4942) and arrived at the top at 19.15. It was a long hard slog but I passed through some really interesting country, mainly through woods that eventually gave way to a clearing at the top occupied by free roaming Jersey cows and horses that had no road sense. Part way up I had to contend with road works on a very steep section in the woods. I looked for a hotel at the top of the pass but everywhere was closed up except for the first one I came to but I wasn’t going back down a kilometer for that. I took the usual photos, put on extra clothing, as it was getting cool now the sun had gone down. Summer season had not started up here yet and I was too late for winter season, I hoped for a hotel further down the pass. I found one at Greiss Sellrain at 19.30 for 43€ including breakfast. The set evening meal was a further 12€ and consisted of rice, meat, side salad (almost as big as the meal so I took it upstairs to my room later!) I caught up with the diary and crashed out at midnight.
Thursday 1st July 2004 Sellrain to Zell am See
Trip distance 68.63 km, current altitude at end of day 864 metres, ride time 3 hours 42 minutes, average speed 18.50kph, maximum speed 55 kph, ODO total 1426km, maximum altitude 1291 metres, average climb 3%, maximum climb 11%, total altitude 11584 metres, trip altitude 545 metres.
I took it easy today, needing a rest day so only cycled down the Kuhtai Pass, taking in the two BIGS on the way to Jenbach and finishing there. It took me 40 minutes to reach the foot of the pass and an hour along the Inn valley to reach Innsbruck. There was a lot of traffic along the road flowing into the city so it was slow progress. I located the area of the Golden Roof and took ages waiting for an opportunity to take a clear photo of it, patiently waiting for delivery vans to move. (Photo 4943) On the way out of the city I came across the International Youth Hostel where Ruth and I stayed once. I remember having to sleep in the boot room, as they didn’t book us in after we left Graz and Petra had phoned ahead for us, assuring us that they would reserve our two beds. Ruth had been fortunate as she had a bed but they had no record of our reservation. I had a quick look round the hostel just for the memories. It hasn’t changed a bit and I think it was about 15 years ago when we were here. On from there along the busy main road, heading east to Hall in Tirol. I turned off to the right just before the town as the traffic was unbearable and it was another warm day. The traffic fumes were beginning to give me a headache and I saw my escape to the left to a village called Thael along an inviting quiet lane. (Photo 4944)
I continued along under the shoulder of the hills to the north then took a steep left that soon became impossibly steep – I had to walk – but not for to far. The road continued to the first BIG of the day, Issjochl (BIG No.617 ) at Halltal. Along to Gnaudenwald later then across the wide valley to the other BIG I could see directly in front. Down to the main road again through Fritzons and Wattens and slowly up the Saga Alm (BIG No. 619) that took ages but it was worth it. The road climbs up from the side valley. From there back to the other side of the valley again to Terfens then Vomp and along a quiet road to Jenbach. I stopped at MacDonald’s for a drink then passed the old castle, Schloss Tratzberg (Photo 4945) on the slope of the hills on the northern side of the valley a few miles from Jenbach, took a photo then arrived in Jenbach. I arrived at the train station, watched the old steam train about to leave (Photo 4946) for the lake below Plummersattel and found there was a train to Salzburg at 14.45 but on reaching Taxenbach the heavens opened and the rain continued until the evening. I spent a miserable hour on Salzburg Hauptbahnhof watching the rain and wondering what to do if the rain continues and which direction to take. I toyed with the idea of going north to Linz and on to the Czech border for the Moldaublick and also of going south to Leinz. Eventually I decided I would take a train back to Zell am See at 18.04 where I had passed through before on the way from Jenbach and see what the weather would do tomorrow. I arrived in Zell am See at 19.30 and booked in at a hotel in the main part of town then went for a pizza by the station later. The hotel was very expensive but I needed to be in this area that would give me a choice of direction tomorrow, based on the weather.
Friday 2nd July 2004 Zell am See to Lienz
I started off late after a lie in, setting off at 10.30 along the lake. I could hardly see the mountains over the other side of the lake because of low cloud. The weather forecast was for overcast conditions in low lying areas and rain in the mountains so I attempted the most illogical venture and turned south for the Grossglockner. (BIG No.625). The forecast was also for better weather south of the pass so I risked it and headed up after a 27-year absence. It was interesting but it was just the same as in 1977 – I saw nothing, as Manual would say. The weather was so bad at times that it was difficult to make out the road ahead and that wasn’t just because my glasses were steamed up. Through the tollbooths at Ferlielter after first checking the weather conditions on the web cam in the tourist information there. The web cam showed the top of the pass to be very misty with hardly any visibility. That really cheered me on! The man in the information office did say however that it was only patchy rain so I took that in a positive way being very optimistic. I was to learn later that I would have misty optics because I could hardly see ahead of me. Two Austrian cyclists at the barrier wished me ‘viele gluck’, I appreciated their concern – and I was concerned when they didn’t follow me up as I charged away up the mountainside. It was a long drag up the mountain, especially with no view to take in, only the road immediately ahead and behind. Rain started a few kilometers on from the tollbooths so I took shelter for a while at a café to the left of the road, a wooden structure with an indication of great views from here. I didn’t know which way to look. I didn’t go in but ate my breakfast roll outside and put on over-trousers and cycle shoe covers then continued up almost non-stop to the Fuschertor.
I had a look inside the shop at the top, up the steps to the left and asked for soup but they were hardly having any tourists here today so it wasn’t worth their while. I told the girl in the shop that my wife told me to come up here for the glorious views she enjoyed a couple of months previously and asked if it was true. She old me to try the café 1 km down the other side of the pass on the left so with socks over my cycle mitts to keep warm I had a rapid, steep descent to that point and was really bitterly cold. After washing and getting warm again I had noodle soup and a cup of tea for 4.60€. In came a man with a marmot balanced on his shoulder and he showed off the animal to everybody in the café. Outside again and warmed up, I thought the road would continue down but soon found out that there was still a few kilometers of gentle up before the Hochtor (BIG No.625) tunnel that marked the top. (Photos 4947 to 4949). The road was still enveloped in a thick white mist with banked snow on either side of the road. Eventually I reached a tunnel and thought it was the Hochtor but that was the next one after a final stiff climb. Once in the Hochtor tunnel the road descends slightly and emerges at the other end to what would have been a great view but the only object worth seeing was the web cam perched on a metal pole to the left of the tunnel entrance as I emerged on the south side. I put on a pair of dry socks over another pair of dry mitts as I negotiated the steep descent to Heilingblut. Before reaching there I left the mist behind but it was still overcast, however the weather was better than on the north side of the mountains so hopefully I have made the right choice for a few days in the Lienz area. From Heilingblut the way down was easy going. I had a look around the village and it’s tall, slender church tower. I saw some suitable scale cycle maps at 8.20€ each but thought I would see them in Lienz. I continued on down to Dollach and turned off up the valley to Weisssee. There was no indication from the road of the valley. I took a photo of the waterfall at Stampen then continued down to Winklern at 18.30. From there steeply up for approx 2km to the Iselsberg Pass, steeper near the top (Photo 4950). From there a long sweep down to Lienz, arriving at 19.30. I found a good hotel run by an elderly Swiss lady for 28.00€. I phoned Ruth from the bar with the phone set to a timer, which was a bit unnerving. It was a bit like watching Countdown with Carol Vorderman. I wandered later into town and had a kebab from a Turk shop advertising Antalya all over it so told him I had been there a couple of years ago. I later caught up with the diary and separated what I needed for tomorrow’s trip as I would stay here for two nights and have the luxury of traveling light. I washed some clothes and went to sleep at 00.20.
The trip distance today was 100.69km, current altitude (in Lienz) 655 metres, ride time 7 hours 37 minutes, average speed 13.10 kph, maximum speed 55.5 kph, overall distance total 1526 km, maximum altitude 2479 metres, average climb 7%, maximum climb 15%, total altitude 9835 metres, top elevation 2658 metres, trip altitude 2359 metres.
Saturday 3rd August 2004 Lienz
Started the day along the main road towards Sillian, turning right from the hotel then 3 km further took a right turn indicated as Pilstaler Hohenstrasse. The quiet road off the main road climbs immediately. It was a hot, tough one and half hour’s ride up to Bannburg and the Hochstein (BIG No.629), (Photos 4951 to 4954)1hour, total 14km. After about 8km the road traverses a ridge that sweeps round to the left and into Bannburg. Once there I had a rest and shade from the sun in the wooden bus stop shelter then just past that, to the right is the narrower road that climbs all the way to the Hochstein. The first kilometre is in open countryside with views back down the valley but had to be careful on the diagonally placed drainage channels that cross the road on the way up. Soon into the trees then to an open clearing at the top, 6km from Bannburg. Back down the same way, down to the village again and right following the road along the ridge with great views looking across to the mountains on the other side of the valley. Stopped to take a photo at Schottendorf then left the Hohenstrasse and down to Thal – Aue and to the valley down below. The road rises slightly all the way to Tassenbach where I turned left and up to the Kartischer Sattel (BIG No.628). (Photos 4955 to 4957) This wasn’t too difficult. There are hairpins at first then gently up to a point where the col is. The actual marker is over the top a little way, near a hut on the right well past the houses but this is about 0.3km past the true top. I had an orange then turned tail and rode back down the pass the same way taking about twenty minutes back to the valley having taken an hour to get up there. I took a photo at the top then back down to Pustertal. In the valley were a group of about 20 cyclists boarding a van on the train specially laid on for cyclists. I found out at Leinz station later that there are five trains each way during the day from Leinz to Toblach that have these cycle vans. At Heimalt in the valley, just before Sillian, I took a photo of the old wooden bridge spanning the stream, decked with geraniums. From there I took a road off to the north at 14.45 up the Villgraten valley to Ausservillgraten. There was a bridge down about half way to the village and the road was diverted through a narrow gap, traffic controlled by lights on a steeper road – I was glad they were on green. The road starts at Panzendorf Castle, this overshadows the entrance to the side valley.(Photos 4958 to 4959) Ausservillgraten was soon reached easily enough and reaching this point wasn’t too difficult. (Photo 4960) In fact this was the only real climb of the whole pass as the rest followed a narrow valley at a right turn in the village, a gradual ascent by narrow road that gradually became a rideable track. There were no shops open in the village so I plodded on at 15.15 and reached Volkseiner Hutte (BIG No.627) at 17.00, so 2 hours and 15 minutes from the valley to the pass. I rode back in about 40 minutes and took some photos on the way. (Photos 4961 to 4971)
Volkseiner Hutte nestles in a valley at a junction of paths. The last 7km are on track, 0.5km further this crosses a small wooden bridge. At 4km from the hut the track becomes stony and only at 2.6km (marker indicating) does the track involve considerable climbing. The last 0.5km is a bonus as the track dips down into the alpine valley to the hut. There is only one point along the Winkeltal valley where there is a restaurant, at 7km where the road becomes a track. Back down to valley I caught a train to Olang and climbed the Stallersattel (BIG No.623) in 1 hour 30 minutes but this again was easy enough. I returned to Olang but rode back from Sillian in one hour to Lienz, as it was an easy road, a gradual down all the way. Back at 20.30 just in time for last servings at the hotel restaurant. I had Swiss soup ‘Berner Gurstlesuppe’ at 3.50€. This was very good, thick soup with vegetables. The main meal was a sirloin steak and fried potatoes, total 10.90€. I caught up with the diary later at the table and had a walk round town later, packed my bags for tomorrow and to sleep at 23.00.
09.45 to 19.45, current altitude 701 metres, trip distance 133.02 km (83 miles), ride time 8 hours 26 minutes, temperature in the evening 25ºC, average speed 15.70 kph (10 mph) – and with 4 passes climbed today that’s not bad! Maximum speed 55.50 kph (35 mph), overall distance 1659 km, maximum altitude 1866 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 18%, total altitude 13948 metres, top elevation 1905 metres.
Sunday 4th July 2004 Lienz to Salzburg
Current altitude 444 metres, trip distance 92.08km, ride time 5 hours 41 minutes, average speed 16.10kph, maximum speed 58.50kph (down the Lofer Alm), overall distance 1751km, maximum altitude 1448 metres, average climb 7%, maximum climb 19%, total altitude 10632 metres, top elevation 2762 metres, trip altitude 1097 metres, temperature in the evening 26ºC.
I went for the 09.16 train from Leinz to Spittal but first I had an early morning ride north from Leinz up to the Spottling Taurer Pass (BIG No. 626) as far as Gier. It was steep to begin with and a further steep section before Kals but otherwise a fairly easy 12km from main road and an easy 21km to the pass road, total 66km (40 miles) 3 hours
The train to Spittal was easy enough, just like our local trains but from there to Schwarzerach St Veit it was an express without a guards van. I bundled the bike on anyway at the very back of the train and hoped that I would be allowed to continue. I had valid train tickets, and for the bike but not on this type of train. The conductor let me off and told me I shouldn’t be aboard. I pleaded ignorance of the timetable! I got off at Mallnitz just before the long tunnel to the north of the Alps then rode up the short valley to the Jamnig Hutte (BIG No.635) with ease, only 10km and not really steep. The way becomes a track after 2km from Guttenbrunn. Back down the valley and boarded another train for Schwarzerach St Veit then a local train from there to Saalfelden (Photo 4972) with loads of excitable school kids doing the same ride to Lofer along a really interesting cycle track to the east of the road into Lofer. Called in at MacDonald’s in Saalfelden for a large orange juice then along the track and past the school kids some way along. Through the trees all the way to Weissbach where I joined the road again then an easy ride over the Luftenstein Pass and down to Lofer. I found the Lofereralm(BIG No.624) road in the village. There is a post office on the corner where the road begins for the ascent. I left my bags at a café and went up with just camera and helmet and said I would be back in an hour for coffee. It took me an hour to get up there though and 20 minutes to come down. In the hour I cycled to the tracks after the restaurant to the mast, which marks the true top. The restaurant although on a level area, was just below a ridge on which the track goes over and one to the left to reach the mast. (Photos 4973 to 4974) Back down to Lofer, collected the bags after a coffee then over the Pass Strub back into Tyrol and a sweep down to Waidring for the easier Durchkaser Pass (BIG No.621) (Photo 4975) with another buschenshank at the end. This is only 5km up and not as steep as the Loferalm. Back down and return to Lofer (Photo 4976) then took the road for Salzburg through the Bavarian extension of Germany that juts south below Salzburg. At Unken in Bavaria there is a tunnel where cyclists are not allowed so had to go through Unken village and join the main road again further along. I followed the Saalach River along a cycle path. This was very interesting but I made slow progress along the track. It would have been a lot quicker along the main road and would have crossed the border point at the Stein Pass. I took a right turn over the river then left to Bad Reichenhall. From there I had a great view of the high cliffs towards Berchtesgarten and could make out the flat section way up on top of the white cliffs to the right where, until it was demolished by American troops, stood the infamous ‘Eagles Nest’ that was Hitler’s central command outside of Berlin and his summer residence. It was totally destroyed in 1945 to stop devoted Nazis ever making it into a shrine. (Photos 4977 to 4979) From here down to the Austrian border where I took photos (Photos 4980 to 4981) of the border point then past well stocked flat fields to Wals and past Salzburg airport and took the cycle path under the runway then on to Salzburg. I called it at one hotel but they were charging 86€ for a single room – no way! However they were good enough to hand me a map and suggested I try for more reasonable price hotels at the rear of the cathedral area. Sure enough I found a place for 42€ or £29 but it was plenty good enough. I had spaghetti carbonara and a grosse beer for 12€ (£8.40) at an outside pizzeria in one of the town squares. I sat in the hotel bar later, watching Greece beat Portugal in the EUFA cup final. Greece scored in the 84th minute by a header from the corner. With only 6 minutes playtime left there wasn’t any opportunity for Portugal to score even though they were the strongest team and had loads of chances but they were playing rugby shooting over the bar. In my room I caught up with the diary and wrote postcards and to bed at 12.30.
Monday 5th July 2004 Salzburg to Bad Aussee
I paid my dues at Gasthof Hubermann and couldn’t really expect any cheaper in the centre of Salzburg. Breakfast in the hotel bar was simple but plenty of it. I had locked the bike up just inside the main door at the bottom of the hotel steps. I could have tried just outside the city and probably would have found somewhere cheaper but it 20.00 when I arrived here last night so really wanted to find somewhere quick before it went dark and also ensure that I get out for a meal before the restaurants finish serving. I set off at 09.00 this morning, leaving my bags in the hotel until later. I took the road out of the city over the Salzach road bridge to Platz then straight on through a pedestrian area for the road that becomes the St Gilgen road and Salzkammergut but it wasn’t heading that far. I continued for 7km out of the city and turned right, taking the sign for Gaisburg (BIG No.631). (Photos 4982 to 4988) The indication was 9km to the top of the road. It’s steep to begin with then not too bad until reaching 3km from the top when I came to a clearing through the trees. It becomes steeper there but great views down to Salzburg. The final 2½ kilometers are very steep but rewarding when the large red and white radio masts looms into view in the last 0.3km. The actual distance measured to the top is 8.8 kilometres. I asked an elderly gent, who just happened to be walking my way, to take a photo of me next to the pass marker. It took me 50 minutes to reach the top on a middle gear, except for the last section. I careered back down again in 15 minutes. I collected my bags from the gasthof two hours after starting out. I had a lemon tea in Salzburg before reaching the Salzach Bridge. Having collected my bags I wandered the streets looking for the bahnhof and it wasn’t easy, as I could see no signs for it. Eventually I boarded the 13.02 train to Bischofshofen then the 14.13 train from there to Selzthal arriving at 15.40. There was a local train connection from there passing through Trieben to arrive at 16.06. I cycled up to the Oberst Klinke Hutte (BIG No.651) (Photos 4989 to 4991) and down the other side of the pass and eventually to Leizen at 18.30 with 40 minutes at the buschenshank Oberst Klinke Hutte. I took 1 hour 45 minutes to cycle over and this was a continuous climb passing through woods of spruce trees on a semi alpine climb. The turning off for the buscheschank is tarmac for the first 2 kilometres, however the final 3 kilometres is quite steep on the loose white stones. The actual distance from the road over from Trieben to Admont and to the hut is 8.7 kilometres. The end appears all of a sudden around a final left hand bend. I requested a business card stamped with the location address and also bought two postcards of the restaurant area. Back to the road and turned right for Admont. The upper part of the road was recently resurfaced and now work has commenced resurfacing the lower section. I rode on to Liezen and just made it before the heavens opened and casually made it under cover of the station canopy when I was surprised to see the rain. I took a train from Liezen at 19.46 to Stainach Irdning where I had to change for a bus that was laid on as a rail replacement to Mittendorf. (So it’s not only an English quirk replacing trains with buses for engineering work) My bike went in the boot of the coach. From Mittendorf there was a waiting train for the final leg to Bad Aussee, arriving at 21.30. I stayed at the Hotel Sonne, 42€ (£29.40), bed and breakfast. I went for a beer and wurst at the internet café along the road, being the only place open still serving food at 22.00, 6.70€. Talking German and English with a tiler who did his very best with his limited English. Back from there to the hotel at 23.00.
Current altitude (Bad Aussee) 651 metres, total distance 92.64 km, ride time 6 hours 12 minutes, average speed 19.40kph, max speed 59kph, overall distance total 1844 kilometres, maximum altitude 1459 metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 18%, total altitude 1567 metres, top elevation 1905 metres, trip altitude 1729 metres.
Tuesday 6th July 2004 Bad Aussee to Steinach Irdning
It took me 1½ hours to reach the top of the Loser Hutte (BIG No.637) road, 10.00 until 11.30, in contrast only 20 minutes down from 11.55 until 12.15. It was easy going to Altausee except for the road works out of Bad Aussee then a diversion that I ignored but it was great as there were no cars to contend with as I maneuvered past the fresh tarmac over patches of road recently filled in. I turned left just before the lake then began a steady climb for 2 kilometres that was easy until the tollbooth was reached then it was progressively steeper but easier a bit further along. I counted 17 hairpins on the way up through the trees then mostly in a clearing with great views back down to the lakes. It is a very good surfaced road that is indicated as the Alpen Panoramaweg. Only in the last kilometer was it possible to se the Loser Hutte. I bought a cowbell and three postcards from the restaurant shop. I must send one to Helmut. I enjoyed the ride up here. It was dry for once and very warm but this wasn’t to last the day. At the top I could make out the rain clouds coming in from the north. I took photos at the top (Photos 4992 to 4996) then descended, stopping a couple of times to admire the view but conscious of the impending rain and I didn’t want to be descending the pass in wet weather, the brakes are slower to respond. Sure enough just as I reached the hotel to reclaim my bags that I had left in the hotel garage it was getting dark and ominous, as the staff were busy scurrying about folding up the parasols and tablecloths. I got up the road a little way towards the station when it started pelting down. I took cover for a few minutes in a shop doorway then rushed for the station when it eased off. There was a train at 12.24 to Steinach Irdning or so I thought but it was now cancelled. The next one was at 13.18 and I was a bit peeved because I could have biked along the valley instead of waiting. Eventually in Steinach after changing for the bus again at Mittendorf then train that was waiting by the roadside at a convenient stopping point at a grassy area, so lumbered bike on to the last carriage. I clambered off at Grőbming. I cycled along to the other side of the valley in the rain then the road bends to the right then sharp left up a hill and in to the town to the right at the top. I found a place to stay from the small tourist information office at the end of street that wouldn’t look out of place in Holland with its green wooden houses and stream rushing under planks that gave access to the houses. I booked in at the friendly guest house at 24€ for the night including breakfast – the best yet! I must use the tourist information facilities more often. I also asked about the weather – bad for the rest of the day I was told but only cloudy tomorrow, no rain. Thursday would be dry and hot but thunderstorms expected Thursday night, then dry on Friday. I will have to wait and see if Austrian forecasts are reliable. I left my accommodation at 15.15 after a coffee from my room then back to the tourist information place to say the digs are just great and check out directions for the road to the Steinhutte. (The young girl in the tourist office looked at me suspiciously going in twice!) The way up was the same road I had just come down from the guest house so I turned tail and went along to the first left, signposted Stoderzinken Alpenstraße (BIG No.638) (Photos 4997 to 5001) at Hotel Stanberger then left again shortly afterwards where the indication was Hohenstrasse Alpin Strassenweg. At first this is a fairly easy ride up through the woods. After about a kilometer it begins to get steeper as I passed a sign indicating that the gradient is a consistent 12% for the next 10 kilometres but yet further down at the last turn-off, another sign indicated 9% - no matter it was steep enough! It took me from 15.15 to 17.45 to reach the Steinhutte. I had cream soup and a cup of coffee in the quiet restaurant, not many customers today in the bad weather. I took the usual photos and bought two postcards then descended. Although the weather was overcast it didn’t rain much, just a light shower after all that heavy rain earlier. I was glad I caught the train as not only did it save time but I also kept dry. I careered down the mountain to Grőbming and down to the village and across the valley to Steen and up the Solker Pass (BIG No.653). It was steep at first to Großsolk then a steady climb on a not very busy road, considering this is a through route over the Alps – but then this is near to its eastern extremity and they are lower here. It took me an hour to reach the road high point. In the last kilometer there is a vicious climb and a few hairpins – the Solker Pass trying to assert itself, as a major pass but isn’t. Down from here and back to skizentrum in the valley and back to the gasthof at 20.00, plenty late enough. I changed, showered and walked down to the village in search of a good place to eat. I found a pub and enjoyed grilled cutlets, chips and salad for 7.20€ and a small beer for 2.00€. I caught up with the diary while I sat there and walked back to the gasthof in the dark, a very different scene in the mountains at night, then to bed at midnight. I must do my speedo settings in the morning as it’s still on the bike in the garage.
Trip distance 73.45 kilometres, current altitude 771 metres, ride time 5 hours 24 minutes, average speed 13.50 kph, maximum speed 64.50kph, overall distance total 1918 kilometres, maximum altitude 1783 metres, average climb 7%, maximum climb 15%, total altitude 12711 metres, top elevation 2762 metres, trip altitude 2078 metres. Information gathered at the gate of the gasthof before setting off the following morning!
Wednesday 7th July 2004 Steinach Irdning to Katschberg
Current altitude at the top of the Katschberg Pass 1627 metres, (should correctly be 1641 metres), trip distance 124.67 kilometres or 77.5 miles, ride time 8 hours 37 minutes, average speed 14.40 kph, current temperature on the Katschberg 27ºC, maximum speed 60 kph, overall distance total 2042 km, maximum altitude (on the Rossbrand) 1744 metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 18% on the last part of the Katschberg, total altitude 18510 metres, top elevation 1905 metres, trip altitude 2832 metres.
I set off at 08.30 along the main road heading west to Haus. This was mainly downhill but it’s a very busy road with plenty of passing trucks – well it was the day I was riding it! I could have taken the lower road across the valley from Grőbming but this would have ended at Auch so I may as well get some speed up going downhill with the first stop at Haus to relive my memories of our last visit here when we stayed with Petra from Graz. I had a look at the church but I only remembered the interior and I couldn’t gain access today. Petra had met us at the railway station, took us to the large house near the church where we were staying for a couple of nights then to the service in the church. Ruth and I later wandered around the village and had cold refreshing beers to slake our thirst, sitting outside in the hot sun. This was about 10 years ago. The following morning Petra took us on a long walk to the Hochstein Mountain to the south of Haus. I later continued along a lane parallel to the main road but later rejoined it and slowly in the thick of the traffic down to Schladming. The climb from here to the Hochwurzen (BIG No.640) took me an hour from Rohrmoos at the head of the valley but it was worth the effort even though getting up to Rohrmoos from Schladming was an effort in the hot sun. The road up here is very impressive, through the woods and eventually emerging in a clearing on the shoulder of the mountain. The white hutte at the summit could be seen clearly from a distance, always a long way off until finally I reached it. Back down at top speed, as I wanted to put some miles in today.(Photo 5002) I left my panniers at Rohrmoos tourist information office and did the same late on at Radstadt. They really understand the cyclist dilemma! To tour away from home you need cloths, tools and food but you don’t want to carry the weight along up a mountainside only to return back down the same way. Another useful thing to do is to buy a drink at a restaurant, request to leave the bags with a promise to buy another drink on your return! It took me 1½ hours to reach Rossbrand. (BIG No.639). I bought two stamped postcards, took some photos (Photos 5003 to 5008) and made my way back down in 20 minutes after half an hour up there. At 15.15 I set off from Radstadt, shopping at Aldi (Hofen here) then an easy ride along flat countryside to Untertauern but then down, then up through a windy gorge to Gnadenalm. I was past by two elderly English cyclists, well one of them was. The other one said, as he passed “Wouldn’t want to swap my bags for yours!” I replied; “Wouldn’t want to swap my age for yours!” “Cheek! I’m only 45!” said he. “Well I’ll take that back, I’m 53 and carrying a lot more weight than you but you’re not going any faster!” That shut him up. Further up the pass I was overtaken again by two other elderly English cyclists, was this a club run? It was very windy on the way up and the going got more difficult after Gnadenalm. It leveled out a little bit towards the top where an podgy American woman in skin tight cycle shorts and clingy vest that looked like the wife of the Michelin man shouted out after me, “Geud Jowb” which I think meant ‘good job’ without the drawl. I said it wasn’t really as the hill was a drag. “Owbsolootly” she said, and I cringed. I would rather be in Europe where I find it difficult to understand the language than be in the States and cringe at the awful corruption of the English language. Shortly afterwards I saw the curved structure over the road on a bend to the right with the words “Wilkommen zu Obertauern”. I was glad this pass was nearly over as it really lacked scenery on the way up from the north. The southern side is better for views. First came a false top called Alpe Tauern Weniger” (The small Tauern Alp) then I saw the buildings ahead that cluttered the top of the Tauernpasshöhe (BIG No.641) (Photo 5009). I didn’t want to stop here and anyway it was only 17.15 so I careered on down the pass, steep at first but at Tweng the wind was strong and I wasn’t going down as fast. I saw the two elderly English cyclists in Tweng outside a hotel, presumed they were stopping there. I carried on down until I reached Mautendorf at 18.00 with its castle to the right of the road near the foot of the pass (Photo 5010). Down further to St Martin. It was a pity the road went down as far as it did, as I would have a lot of climbing to make up later on the Katschberg Pass (BIG No.643). At Stranach 18.30 I thought about half an hour should be enough time to reach the top of the Katschberg. How wrong I was, it is so steep that it took me over an hour to reach the hotels at the top. The gradient is a continuous 15% with only one slight respite 3 km from the top. The final 1500 metres is sheer masochism – it’s 18% at one point. I was glad to see the Katschberg sign over the road, ahead. This indicated the top was reached and the ‘Wilkommen zu Katschberg’ was a welcome sight. I took a photo at the top (Photo 5011) in the failing light just in case it was raining in the morning. I asked about a room at the big hotel on the right, facing south. It looked expensive but they offered a special price for cyclists, as they all needed a good bath, feed and sleep having made it up the pass. I was told that to come up the south side would be even steeper and found out it was the following morning. In the Dorling Kindersley Austria guide at home it listed this hotel at 70€ a night and I couldn’t possibly afford that. I was offered the room at 27€, just below £19 then another 14€ for a set meal - £9.50. I thought that was reasonable. My bike went in a room off the lobby and saw no reason to lock it. For the meal I had cheese and lettuce starter followed bouillon soup then vegetable and turkey mix with a side salad. I couldn’t eat the side salad so asked the friendly waiter who spoke good English and was also good at smashing glasses behind the bar if I could take this up to my room. “No probs” he said. I had a glass of red wine and a large bottle of gas mineral water with the meal. In my room I reorganized my bags, demoting used clothes and putting out others ready to wear tomorrow. I caught up with the diary and went to sleep at 01.00
Thursday 8th July 2004 Katschberg to Tarvisio, Italy
Trip distance 160 km, 110 miles. Current altitude 546 metres, ride time 8 hours 3 minutes, average speed 19.20 kph, maximum speed 58.50 kph (down the Katschberg Pass), overall distance total 2201 km, maximum altitude 1632 metres, average climb 4%, maximum climb 20% on the Falkert Pass, total altitude 14109 metres, top elevation 2762 metres, trip altitude 1398 metres.
I set off down the Katschberg Pass at 09.00 (Photos 5012 to 5013) and enjoyed the long sweep down to Gmund (Photo 5014), a good way to start the day with wind in your face and miles on the speedo. From Gmund along the valley to Malta Wasserfalle (BIG No.642) (Photos 5015 to 5016) at 11.00 (at Feistritz) then further along the valley, which is a toll road for motorists. I took some photos of the waterfall then back to Gmund. This is an interesting medieval walled town with passageways and narrow cobbled streets. I thought better of taking the high road from Leoben as this is advertised as the Hochalpen Straße, It would have meant going back uphill then taking up a lot of time negotiating the high road to Saureggen but then if I had done this I would have missed the 2km road works on the way up the Turracherhöhe later, but wasn’t to know that. I carried on down to Seeboden following the Drach River watching the canoeists weaving their way on the rapids. In Seeboden I bought some milk to have with my breakfast rolls and searched out a place along the first part of the lake, Millstattersee to settle and eat with a view, but this was impossible as the lakeside was taken up by private lido areas with turnstiles and I couldn’t be bothered with that. (Photos 5017 to 5018) One year, in Lucerne I did just that and went swimming in the lake but today I wanted to climb some more mountains! I rode along the lake for a way and found a place along the lakeside cycle path with a picnic table and a view that will do nicely. I had my litre of milk delicately balanced on the handlebars and my two breakfast rolls. I must remember to fish out the two bananas later or they will be mush! Through Millstatt where Hans and Eva stayed a few years ago. This had been the first holiday they had in the west after visiting us. From here to Dellach at the other side of the lake then an easy ride slightly uphill to Radenthein. There was nowhere to leave my bags here so continued further up a steep incline to Bad Kleinkircheim (photo 5019). It took me an hour to get up there, as that’s one steep road. From there is a road that heads north on to the high alpine road. I should have taken it as it would have taken me to the Falkertschutzhutte direct instead of heading further east to Patergassen. However I continued to Patergassen to climb up the Turracherhöhe (BIG No.646). Downhill again over the other side from Bad Kleinkircheim that will add to the agony of climbing the Turracherhöhe but at least I was able to leave my bags at the tourist information office while up there. The south wind was very strong blowing me up the valley to Ebene Reichenau, but now to suffer the road works on the pass that starts immediately after the village for 2km then the remaining climb of 12km to the top of the steep pass on a good surface. Back down again then almost to Patergassen but turned off up a very steep road to the right to Falkertsee (BIG No.647), 8km. Up through trees and stopped for a while at Vorderkoflach (Photo 5020) where there is an interesting new wooden development on the right overlooking the valley. From there up a 13% through the woods to a clearing in an upper valley to the lake at the top with the buschenshank alongside it in an interesting alpine setting (Photos 5021 to 5023). Back to Bad Kleinkircheim to collect my bags then downhill to Radenthein again. I appreciated the climb I had going up little realizing at the time what I was letting myself in for. This time I took the road south for Treffen and Villach. It was 19.00 as I reached the first lake along this road at Feld am See then a slight rise over to the next lake, Afritzersee. This lake is the more impressive of the two, more closed in by the mountains. After Afritz I thought I was in for some serious climbing again but the road goes down rather steeply all the way to Treffen, finding a way twisting through the gaps in the wooded hills that hem in the narrow passage. I passed the sign for the Gerlitzen then the Kanderhohe at Treffen, both of which I would climb on my last day here as my final effort but today it was late and I needed to reach Villach and find somewhere to stop the night. The last part of today’s trip was to leave the mountains at Winklern and enter a broad plain with a castle in front at Landskron overlooking Villach. I passed under the autobahn then slightly uphill on Villach outskirts then followed the signs for Villach Ost and the bahnhof. I asked at the station about the possibility of a train conveying the bike on the train from here to Venice via Trevisio and Udine. I was advised that this wasn’t possible but there were regional trains from Tarvisio direct to Venice if I could make my own way there either over the Wurtzenpass or the more direct busy route avoiding the mountains through Arnoldstein. It was obvious which way I would choose! I was given times of trains from Tarvisio. There was one at 15.30 arriving in Venice at 18.30 with a change at Udine. That was ideal as I would have sufficient time on Saturday to ride the Gerlitzen Pass and on to Tarvisio over the Wurzenpass leaving the bags in the hotel and coming back for the final climb over the Wurzen but I must get up early on Saturday to do that! For today I wandered round the city for a while and found a reasonable priced hotel at 20.00 just over the river bridge on the left, the Goldenes Lamm. This was 44€ less breakfast but there was a MacDonald’s over the road that opened at 07.00 so would have breakfast there. I went along to an Italian restaurant at 21.00 that the man behind the desk at the hotel recommended. I had pasta followed by a pizza and two glasses of beer all for 23€ then back to the hotel and to sleep at 23.00.
Friday 9th July 2004 Tarvisio to Villach, Austria
Up at 06.30 and across to MacDonald’s for breakfast as soon as they opened. Made my way to the station with only bare essentials in one pannier bag, the rest left in the hotel room. The local train departed Villach 07.57 for Hermagor, arriving there at 09.06 but I got off the train at Rattendorf at 09.30 further along as it was nearer the Nassfeld Pass (BIG No.644), my first objective. It had been raining during the night and there was still light rain in Villach as I left for the station but this soon cleared and no more rain the rest of the day. I slept a lot on the train this morning but was wide-awake at Rattendorf for a really interesting day up three passes; the Nassfelden, the Poludnig and the Dobratsch. When I got off the train at Rattendorf station I made my way to Tropolach for the bottom of the pass. Where I got off the train is a continuation of the road from Kartitscher Sattel where I was a few days ago. From Tropolach to the top of the pass was 12km, although it said 10km at Tropolach. There is still a further 1.5km to go after the ski resort near the top and it was a difficult pass to conquer, the first part is extremely steep at 20%, it was a real challenge though. It is also a very scenic pass, much to see along the way that made up for the steepness. Past the ski resort and to the top where there is an open border with Italy. (Photos 5025 to 5027) It’s strange to see an Italian restaurant separated from the Austrian one by a small fence and marker stones. On the Italian side is a wooden walkway on the right over the open marshy ground next to the lago. It was interesting to see the large blue and white sign for Pontebba ahead. As I was there a few years ago approaching it from Passo del Cason di Lanza. I put my cycle mitts, jacket and helmet on and joined a few Austrian cyclists that had unloaded their bikes out of vans at the top of the pass then ploughed on at top speed down the pass. At least I could hold my head up high and say I had gone both ways. You can’t have the ecstasy of the descent without the agony of the ascent to enjoy that ecstasy to the full! I was down the mountain and back in the valley at 12.00 just as the church clock struck the hour in Tropolach. From there at a fast pace, even beating the slow train on its way to Hermagor. I took the road south just before the town and rode along to Garnitzenklamm, signposted as Eggalm. I had apple strudel and a small beer at the klamm then continued up through the woods on a steep 15% section, glad if the trees in the heat of the day. This was the hottest day of my holiday. I took a right for Poludnig (BIG No.645) and followed the narrow winding road eventually into clearing where I could see the hut tat the top around to the right where the road has to negotiate a wide circuit around the upper valley rim to reach it. I lay on the grassy knoll for a while soaking up the sun then descended back to Eggalp and down to Hermagor. I took a train from there to Villach Warmbad and enquired at the tourist information office and received some good maps of the area around Villach, Dobratsch and the Gerlitzen for tomorrow. This could be my last big effort before taking the road over the Wurzenpass and out of Austria for Tarvisio and Venice. From Villach Warmbad I was directed along the road to look out for two huge plant pots then on to the main road for a short way, take a right that leads over a flyover and straight up the road indicated as Villacher Alpensraße. This is the Dobratsch road, 18km long. At least it isn’t steep but it’s a long way and tiring in the heat. There are two dips on the way up, one at the alpine garden but other than these it is continually up all the way at a steady 10% on average. At about halfway I stopped for a while at curve 5 and rested for 10 minutes then continued on without a break to the end of the road. At 3km from the end I was overtaken by two Austrian mountain bikers but they were rather slow and I easily kept up with them. I slowed down to keep behind them to give me support to the end of the pass. I really didn’t fancy a race on a hot day up a mountain. On reaching the top we were disappointed to find that the restaurant was closed but the two Austrians knew of another one along the track towards the Dobratsch (BIG No.648), (Photos 5028 to 5038) only a few minutes away. This was open. We all had locally made apfelsaft at 3€. We stayed a while then continued up on the steeper but rideable track for 3km to the top of the mountain. Part of it was very steep and one of the Austrians had to walk. I was rather pleased about that – the Austrian walks! We reached the two chapels at the top and collapsed! Later we turned around and they left me at the top of the road where I took some photos of the Karawanken Mountains and the white Slovenian mountains around the Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia. In the other direction was the Gerlitzen over Villach. I sped down the mountain and collected the full-unopened bottle of Bacardi rum I had found on the train earlier. I had left this at the Zollampt sign at the foot of the pass, hidden behind an upright support to the sign. I took a little as a celebration drink for conquering another pass. I entered into Villach at 20.00, thoroughly shattered but very satisfied with the day’s achievements. Back to the hotel for a shower, change and a short nap then out to another Italian restaurant across the road from the one as last night. This was actually the recommended one and I had tagliatelli and salad, two beers and a side salad and loads of bread sticks that I demolished. Later back at the hotel I left a message for Ruth on the answer-phone that I would phone later. It was 22.00 and not sure if she would be back from collecting Mark from Crusaders so rang at 22.45.
I went to bed shortly afterwards at 23.00 but there was banging coming from above my room so I asked if I could change rooms. The proprietor said there was only roof space above but he heard the sound too and put it down to water pipes. I was given another room at twice the price but not charged extra for it. Slept well after that.
Yesterday I also toyed with the idea of going for a train at 08.30 for Klagenfurt, arriving at 09.08 then to Sankt Veit an der Glan 09.31 for Treibach Althofen at 09.55 and do some climbing in that area but that can wait for another year and decided to head west today instead. For future use there is also a train from here at 09.02 that conveys bikes to Spittal, arriving at 09.35.
Current altitude 556 metres, trip distance 86.14 km (53 miles), ride time 6 hours, average speed 14.30 kph, maximum speed 59.50kph down the Nassfelden Pass, overall distance 2287 km, maximum altitude 1759 metres, average climb 6%, maximum climb 20% on the Nassfelden Pass, total altitude 20781 metres, top elevation 1905 metres, trip altitude 2270 metres, temperature in Villach in the evening 29ºC.
Saturday 10th July 2004 Villach to Venice
Approaching journey’s end but not before taking in three more BIG’s; the Kanzelhöhe, Gerlitzen and Wurzen passes. After this it was all quite enough and I wanted to go home! My backside was beginning to feel raw and had lasted out well until this point with the necessary cream each day. At Tarvisio I was getting fed up. I had run out of clean clothing except for one pair of clean socks and undies I was saving for the occasion of the homeward trip and also because I think of others!
I set off at 07.30 after breakfast at MacDonalds and along to the station then took a left then followed the road over the rail tracks to the right that eventually brought me to the main road along Treffensraße and into Treffen along the main road to Oeschinsee then left for Treffen along the way I came in to Villach on Thursday. This time I turned right in Treffen and took the road for the Kanzelhöhe (BIG No.649) (Photo 5039) at an average gradient of 12%. I set myself a target of 10.00 at the top but reached there at 09.30, it really makes a difference with no weight to pull up the mountain. All I had was helmet, mitts and camera. Good thing I didn’t puncture! I went on to Gerlitzen (BIG No.650) (Photo 5040) from the Kanzelhöhe, to the left of the ski station along a steep zigzag track through the trees for about 3km but mainly walking. Great views all around with the lake spread out below and Villach in the near distance then a wonderful 12 km drop down to Verditz then continual down through the narrow gorge again as on Thursday, down to Treffen and to Villach at 12.30, speedo read 32 km round trip. I sent my last postcards from Villach and bought a couple of maps of Karnten and Tirol (bargain price of approx £2.00 reduced from £8.00) from the Mozart bookshop opposite the Goldenes Lamm hotel. I collected my bags from the hotel and made my way out of Austria. I risked it going up the Gerlitzen, as I didn’t have a lot of time to cycle over the Wurzenpass and reach Tarvisio stazione for the 15.30 train to Venice. I reached the top of the Wurzen Pass at 14.00 after a long struggle up three 18% gradients. The second one had to be walked, as there was a risk of falling off! I could see why Helmut didn’t want to ride this one a few years ago when we had our four-day trip in Slovenia, instead he met me in Villach and put the bikes on the roof rack and left the car just over the Slovenian border in a lay-by. The first part of the pass was pretty tough but I stayed on. With the SPD pedals there was a risk of falling if I slowed up too much on the steep ascent as my feet were locked into the pedals. It was only 500 metres but safer to walk, however walking up that gradient is almost as difficult to ride as I was walking on tip-toes and that became painful after a while so had to pause a lot for my paws sake. Nearer the top there is a disappointing drop to a river bridge then the last 18%er loomed before me. I knew that I was on the last few kilometers so stuck it out to the top in the knowledge that this was my final climb of the tour. Once there I took the obligatory photo of the road summit sign looking back towards Austria so crossed the dual carriageway but it was devoid of cars (Photos 5041, 5042). Then on to the border control a short way along but first I had a coffee and apfelstrudel and schlag for 4€ on the Austrian side at the last café then showed my passport at border control. (Photos 5043, 5044) From there down the pass that seemed to be over very quickly as the road distance is shorter to the valley on the south side. I was in Podkoren and turned right at the yellow and black sign indicating ‘Italja’ and 5 km later with a slight rise reached the border crossing point into Italy. (Photo 5045) From there it is 11 km mainly down with the Slovenian mountains to the south. I was waved through customs, all he wanted was sight of my passport. Writing the diary for today on the train later and just left a point called Saisegna wherever that is. The road to Tarvisio from the Slovenian border is mainly down but the last kilometer is a short climb through woods and a tree-lined gap before a great descent with the sight of mountains in the distance, the Poludnig and Naßfelden area then I rounded the corner to see journey’s end and Tarvisio Boscoverde stazione below. (Photos 5046, 5047) I reached there at 14.50, half an hour to spare so had time to continue down a kilometer for Tarvisio and buy sweets for Mark. I priced Ruth’s amaretto, 9.70€ (£7.00) - but was a risk carrying it. I remember the last time I was in Italy with a bottle of amaretto in my pannier while heading for Milano Linate airport and the car sent the bag flying! I was not risking it getting smashed. Back for the 15.30 train that I found was going direct to Venice, no need to change in Udine as detailed on the timetable. I paid 3.50€ for the bike and I went free. It was good timing arriving back at the station as it started raining as soon as I got there. On the train it was raining quite a lot through the Italian Alps so I was glad I didn’t decide to carry on riding. After Udine the temperature became noticeably warmer and it was also dry. The train was now passing field after flat field of maize, orchards and Italian villas. I was now at Lancegno at 18.00 and arrived in Venice at 18.40 and it was so warm! I queued up for ages at the hotel reservation place on Santa Lucia stazione but it was just as well as I would never have found anywhere to stay here. The bike seemed to be a problem as the booking clerk was unsure of hotels that would accept it. One would, the Hotel Iris in Sa Coma district. This was priced at 60€ (£42.00) including breakfast, a bit steep but I couldn’t expect anything more reasonable in Venice. I paid a deposit of 17€ to the booking clerk them walked with the bike over the bridge by the station and the agony of more bridges with a lot of weight on the bike, eventually reaching Sa Coma. I was told it was a 10-minute walk and it would be if I knew where I was going and wasn’t lugging this bike over the bridges. It took me 40 minutes and I must have annoyed some people, walking along narrow passageways with a bike in tow. I booked in at the hotel, showered and changed and went out to get some celebration beer for tonight and tomorrow for the journey home. Back to the hotel then just round the corner on the canal side for a wonderful meal at a table for one with a view, canal buildings and beautiful people passing and music from a guitarist, all very emotional and I was enjoying Venice night life at its best. I thanked God for the holiday, to a wonderful wife for allowing me to come for so long to – as Theo would say – achieve my ambitions! I had spaghetti as a starter then another long wait for pizza ‘Humphrey Bogart’ that consisted of mozzarella cheese (as always) and ham, lots of it. I also splashed out on a bottle of red wine. The meal was a bit expensive at 31€ (£21.00) but then this was a celebration of achievement and besides I had a cheap ride on the train down here from Tarvisio at only 3.50€. I went to sleep at 23.00, thoroughly whacked.
Current altitude near Udine 106 metres, trip distance 81 km (50 miles), ride time 5 hours 37 minutes, average speed 14.30 kph, maximum speed 51.00 kph, overall total 2368 km, total 917 miles so far since leaving Leighton Buzzard on 25th June, maximum altitude 1515 metres, average climb 7%, maximum climb 21% on the Gerlitzen Pass, total altitude 15939 metres, top elevation 2762 metres, trip altitude 1830 metres.
Sunday 11th July 2004 Venice to Venice Airport and home
I woke up at 08.15, latest yet but I needed the sleep. I caught up with the diary, had a shower, finished last night’s wine and packed my bags. I took my time this morning, no rush as I have until 14.00 to arrive at the airport. I left the bike and bags in the hotel foyer of Hotel Iris and wandered slowly and casually around the quiet streets to Rialto Bridge and lingered there for a while then on to St Mark’s Square. I had a good look round, loads of time. The water defences to stop flooding are being constructed to the right of the Square after the disaster here in 1966 when the whole Square was flooded. There is now restricted access here. The clocktower is being renovated and has a cover over it with a relief over it with the detail of the clock face and sundial. From a distance on the waterfront it looks like the real thing. The last time Ruth and I were here the Ducal Palace was being restored but that’s now finished and immaculately restored. From there I wandered back, wrote two more postcards to Ruth and her Aunt Dot then back to the hotel to collect the bike. I sorted out the bags for ease of carrying then walked with the bike along the end of the Grand Canal to Piazzale Roma (Photos 5048, 5049) to the point where the cars and buses must park. While there I was asked twice for directions to the international ferries. Maybe they thought I had come from there. Changed into cycle shorts behind some cars at a garage, on emerging I was asked for directions, cycled out of Venice at 13.00 along the 4 km causeway to Venice Mestre. There is a cycle way along the causeway on both sides, separated from the huge traffic flow across here. Once across I took a right for the airport then 8 km along this busy road, noisy and dusty, to the airport. I called at a garage to see if I could borrow a hammer to loosen my pedals to remove at the airport but never did succeed and all other garages were closed along here but then it is Sunday. There was a garage at the airport but again that wasn’t open but I did find a hefty piece of wood there that I could use as a hammer to tap on the spanner – success – at least the one on the chain side was removed but couldn’t budge the other one. I hoped at check-in that they would accept the bike as it is. Just outside the airport doors I sorted out what I needed for the plane then made sure all the rest was securely packed for going in the hold. I checked the bike in with no problems but check-in insisted I have the frame wrapped even though I had a bag to put it in. the plastic wrapping then taping up cost me 7.00€. I removed the front wheel and put it together with the frame. I took the wrapped frame back to the check-in desk and booked it then carried it across to the outsize package dispatch point, gate 27. The plane was due to depart at 17.10 GMT and actually left on time. (Photo 5050) I now had an hour so passed through passport control and bought Ruth’s amaretto and some chocolates and sweets for Mark. I read a couple of magazines on the plane and had a can of beer bought in Venice and landed at East Midlands at 18.30 BST. My train connection for Crewe would leave Derby at 20.55 so biked along to Isley Walton then right for Kings Newton. Ruth and I came to Rodney and Karen’s wedding reception at the old pub here and I thought of them as I continued over the long causeway between Stanton and Swarkestone but then incredibly they passed me heading the other way in the car shortly afterwards. Rod beeped me but it only registered with me as they passed that it was them. I arrived at Derby station at 20.20, half an hour before the train only to find out there was no train! There was a rail replacement bus service and bikes were not allowed. It was left to the driver’s discretion but he let me on as there weren’t many people taking the bus, just as well as it would have been a long bike home! The bus only stopped at Stoke and Crewe. I used somebody’s mobile on the bus to ring Ruth. She would collect me from Crewe station at 22.30. The bus arrived in Crewe at 22.15. I waited outside the station. Ruth collected me at 23.00 and I was exhausted!
At the end of today at Derby the speedo reading was:
Trip distance 3810 km, ride time (Venice to Marco Polo airport and East Midlands airport to Derby) 2 hours 25 minutes, average speed 15.70 kph, maximum speed 64 kph, overall distance total 2407 km, maximum altitude 180 metres, temperature at home 21ºC, average climb 2%, maximum climb 18%, total altitude 21004 metres, trip altitude 222 metres, maximum altitude 186 metres. Overall distance at start of tour, 209 km. Overall distance at end of tour 2407 km, total tour distance 1698 km or 1061 miles. Total altitude at start 1400 metres, total altitude at end of tour 21004 metres therefore 19604 metres climbed or 62148 feet in 14 days. Average climb each day was 4438 feet or about the same height as Ben Nevis each day.
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Original planned trip but this was too adventurous:
Saturday 26/6/04
Zurich arrive 10.10, possible train to Schwyz 10.35, arrive 11.09 or 11.09 arrive 12.01 or 11.35, arrive 12.32
13.00 start from Schwyz to Pragel Pass then Glarus 45km (34 miles) on to Lake Walenstadt then north up Hochrugg Pass, back to lake and south to Tannenboden Pass then to Sargans 76km (47 miles). Total 81 miles.
Sunday 27/6/04
Sargans, Vaduz, Feldkirch 29km (18 miles). Feldkirch to Gotzis and #1,Mulrutti Pass 20km (13 miles). (30 miles) over passes #2 and #3 via Bludenz, 40km (25miles) to #3 then 10km (6 miles) to Bludenz, Total 92 miles
Monday 28/6/04
40km (25 miles) to Flexenpass then 25 km (15 miles) to pass #4, (32 miles) to pass #5 Ehrwald over pass #11, 56km (35 miles) 107 miles
Tuesday 29/6/04
To pass #6, 38km (22 miles). Return same way to Imst 18km (10 miles) then south to Landeck 20 km (13 miles) to pass #8, 38km (22 miles), south to pass #12, 48km (30 miles) and return down (16 miles)
Total 113 miles
Wednesday 30/6/04
To pass #9, 5km (3 miles ) to Haiming then to Solden, 20 miles, Solden to pass #13, 4 miles back down to Solden. Down valley then up to Kuhtai (pass #10) 30 miles over to Innsbruck, 16 miles to pass #15, 20 miles. Total 93 miles.
Thursday 1/7/04
Innsbruck to pass # 17, 16 miles and to Jenbach. Frequent train service from Innsbruck through Hall im Tirol to Jenbach, to pass #18 and return, 24 miles then to pass #19 south of Schwaz for 18 miles and 18 miles return. Stay in Zell am Ziller, 4 miles. Total 82 miles
Friday 2/7/04
To Zell am Ziller for pass #16, 10 miles then 100 km (62miles) to Kitbuhel to pass # 20 Kitzbuhler Horn 8 miles, 8 miles return, 88 miles
Saturday 3/7/04
Kitzbuhel to pass # 21, 30 km (19 miles) then 6km (4 miles) down and across to pass # 24, 18km (12 miles) and 6km (4 miles) down to Lofer to pass #30, 40 km (25 miles) to pass #32, 20km (13 miles), 9km (6 miles) to Bischofshofen, 23km (14 miles) to Radstadt, 6km (4 miles) to pass #39 Rossbrand, 5km (3 miles) to Radstadt. Total 104 miles
Sunday 4/7/04
Rest day. Overnight train from Radstadt at 21.30 to Moldaublick from Rybnik in Czech Republic, arrive 09.00, bike 50 km to pass #36 then train back to Salzburg from Passau at 18.36, arrive Salzburg 20.52 via Wels. Bike OK on these trains, total 80km, 50 miles
Monday 5/7/04
Salzburg to Gaisburg, pass #31, 16 km (10 miles) round trip to Egger, 32 km (20 miles) to St Gilgen, 24km (15 miles) to Bad Ischl, 20km (13 miles) to pass #37, 48km (30 miles) to pass #38 via Mittendorf and St Martin, 11km (7 miles) down, 19km (12 miles) to Schladlming 107 miles
Tuesday 6/7/04
Schladlming 19km (12 miles) to pass #40, 15km (9 miles) down to Pischl, 12km (8 miles) to Radstadt, 22km (14 miles). Train Radstadt to Zell am See, 18 km (11 miles) over Grossglockner to Heilingblut, pass #25 to Dollach, 10km (6 miles) then 10km (6 miles) to pass #33, 10km (6 miles) return, 12km (8 miles) to Winklern. Total 80 miles
Wednesday 7/7/04
Winklern to Lienz 18km (11 miles), pass #29, 15km (9 miles) northwest to Huben, 21km (13 miles) then to pass #26, 12km return (8 miles), 31km west to pass #23, 21km (13 miles) to Olang. 34km (21 miles) to Sillian (or possible train trip) 30km (18 miles) to pass # 27, return to Sillian,. Total 93 miles.
Thursday 8/7/04
Sillian to pass #28, 63km (40 miles) to Mauthen to the east then 20km (13 miles) to Rattend, 11km (8 miles) to pass #44, 11km (8 miles) down, 7km (4 miles) to Hermagor, 10km (7 miles) to pass #45, 10km (6 miles) return down to Hermagor. Total 86 miles
Friday 9/7/04
Hermagor, 66km (41 miles) to Villach taking route north of Villach and pass #48, 17km (11 miles) then further 17km (10 miles) down to Villach, 15km (10 miles) to pass #50, 15km (9 miles) down then 20km (13 miles) via Innere Einode to pass #49, 10km (6 miles) down then 17km (11 miles) to Feldkirchen. Total 111 miles
Saturday 10/7/04
23km (14 miles) to Villach, for train to Venice from Tarvisio (15 miles). Total 29 miles
Space here for extension if schedule is behind by a few hours.
Sunday 11/7/04
Return from Venice to Venice airport Total 1316 miles