Wednesday 11th June 2008
Madrid to Navacerreda
At Liverpool John Lennon I took the bike apart at the outside seating area by the side of the check-in desks, quizzed by a Swede on how I went about loading a bike on a plane, best tyres and lightweight equipment – passed the time. After slipping the bike into the zip-up padded bag I struggled with it in one hand and the two panniers in the other and queued at check-in. I had to pay £10 extra for the panniers as I hadn’t booked them in on the internet application. From there through customs and a wolfed down a breakfast.
Bike re-assembled at Madrid Barajas then north out of the city. On the way to Guadarrama I got lost in the outskirts of Madrid and went round the same circuit three times before finding the way out. I asked a policeman guarding factory gates who told me to take the road for Toledo. I couldn’t have known that as Toledo is south of Madrid and I wanted to head north. Eventually I reached Puerto Guadarrama, (BIG number 466) Alto de Leon 1511 metres. I placed the BIG sticker on summit plate on south side of pass, facing south. In the middle of the road is a stone statue of a lion on a plinth. I had a chorizo sausage and beer 3.10€ at Asadar del Leon on the west side. Casio Hilario on the east side is just a shell of a building, a former café. Here is a turn off to the west for Peguerinos 13km and Valle Emmedio 11km. From here I doubled back and down to Guadarrama and across to Navacarrada (BIG number 467). I slept out in the open halfway up the pass and was very cold during the night.
Thursday 12th June 2008
Navacerreda to Torres
It was very cold on Puerto de Navacerrada (BIG number 467) and didn’t get much sleep. I was away at 07.00 into a cold mist at the top, the sun just breaking through. I placed the BIG sticker on the large pink and white plate at the top of the road facing the Rascafria turn off. I took this road through the woods, mainly down as far as Rascafria. Just through the village I took the scenic route through the woods that opens out to glorious rocky scenery and along a castellated wall road of brown tarmac up to Puerto de la Morcuera (BIG number 468). I placed a BIG sticker on the northern facing summit plate in a quiet lay-by with only cows for company. I continued down the other side of the pass to Gaudalix. I had equally great views on the way down from Gaudalix alongside a lake that was seen from way above earlier at the top of the pass. Soon I was on a main road then a long laborious trip north on a wide, but very quiet, main road up to Puerto de Somosierra and down to junction of N110 and turned off for Riazzo then Riofrio and up to Collado la Quisera in open country. Unfortunately there is no summit plate at the top and the border posts are about a kilometre north of the actual top of the climb so couldn’t really place a BIG sticker there so BIG number 469 will have to do without. Perhaps a local Spaniard in the club can go put it on a border post – or take hammer, post and plate and do a DIY job. I headed south on the lanes through glorious countryside – some road works north of Razbona. From there on the road is widened, the road further north is narrow and twists erratically. I had some confusion with directions in Guadalajara. I was told to take the Madrid road and turn off for Cuenca on the N320 after two kilometres. I found it – again along a wide but very quiet main road. I was going to eat in a café in Guadalajara but it wasn’t serving, wrong time of the day. I pressed on along N320 and was getting very tired as I’d been awake since 06.30. I had a café Americano from a bar in Canavera – best euro ever spent as it revived me and kept me going to Cuenca and beyond. On entering the town from the north I took the CM2110 signposted Villalba de la Sierra and Tragacete. It’s a very scenic road all the way. This road becomes the CM2105 passing through gorges and Puerto Diablo, the Window of the Devil caves on the right then along to Uňa and followed the course of the lake and the course of the Rio Jucar upstream past Hullamo perched on a hill to the right for a very steep climb up a narrow scenic lane to the area of the ‘National Reserve of many Universal Mounts’ then along a valley through Frias to a road junction just north of Royuela then left through Torres to Puerto Orihuela,
BIG number 448. There isn’t much to look at among the trees but the road leading up to it is very interesting, great views to the left (west). Again this is a brown tarmac road and hardly any traffic, just a few motor bikers so bliss for cycling. On the way back down the same way I took some photos of Neguera in the valley and further down of a village dominated by a very large house perched on an outcrop at Tramacastilla. From there it was steadily down to Torres where I stayed the night for 29€ + 10€ (approx £30) for dinner shared with a young couple from Amsterdam on a geology field trip with Amsterdam University.
Friday 13th June 2008
Torres to Castillon
From Torres at 09.00 passing through Albarrain, a steep town nestling in cliffs and the road passing through a series of tunnels then on to Guadalaviar followed by a seemingly endless straight road across a plain from Celia road junction to Teruel and its industrial north side. I took the wide A23 to La Puebla then TEV600 to Collado de la Sierra and a 9km steady road climb through bushland to the white rocks of Javalambre, BIG number 455. The final 2.3km is track after the ski-station but about halfway along there is tarmac but final section to the red and white masts is track. It’s a bit further to the stone stump marking the top and I placed the BIG sticker 10 metres from the top on a metal indication sign at the left of the final section to the top. It’s a good smooth road from the ski-station back down to the main road and also across to La Puebla and Mora and scenic road to Puerto de Alcala (goes by another name on the summit plate – San Rafael?). Down to Alcala and up to BIG number 451. There’s no summit plate I could see so placed the BIG sticker on the highest metal post to the left of the road, a blue and white plate indication for Rio Pinos. From here back down again same way, turned to the north and where the turn off for Gudor begins the main road becomes narrow and pot-holed – EC funding run out for the road completion? Suddenly it’s a bikers dream, a bumpy lane but no traffic as far as Allepuz. From here I took a right at the road junction to Villaroya and met a group of English cyclists east of here below a domed church on a hill but they were far too slow carrying front and rear panniers at a snails pace up the pass. I continued up to Puerto de Villaroya,
BIG number 449 and placed the BIG sticker on the north facing summit plate. I freewheeled down the same way and retraced my route as far as Moya then straight to La Escaleruela and the busy wide road as far as Soneja then the CV230 to Azuebar, a mountain village overlooked by a castle on a hill. Steeply up the red rock lined road in a series of scary close hairpins to Port d’Eslida. (BIG number 454). I placed the BIG sticker on the south facing summit marker plate just as it started raining. This was the first rain so far but the Amsterdam pair in Torres told me that on the day before my arrival it had rained continuously for two weeks so I was fortunate. Over the top of the pass to Eslida hoping to find accommodation at 19.30 but there was nowhere to stay. I tried again at Betxi and eventually found a hotel in the outskirts of Castellon – Hotel Rostits that set me back 45€. I had only paid 29€ the previous night so didn’t feel too bad about it. I had dinner in the hotel at 24€, total of 69€.
Saturday 14th June 2008
Castillon to Tortosa
I headed directly inland from Castillon to la Arcola through a huge industrial complex as far inland as la Arcola. After la Goia I was back in countryside. I checked water outside Castillon. Lluena is an interesting place; white houses huddled together on a hilly ridge, where I took photos. Up the first climb of the day, Puerto del Remolcador BIG number 453, not too difficult and took ¾ of an hour. I placed the BIG sticker on the west facing summit plate. Back down to La Foia and turned north through Costur passing houses on a hill topped by a church tower in the centre. At Atzeta I took the road indication for Vistabella. It took me an hour to reach the 1015m height marker. There isn’t one for Port del Vidre as the road goes down again on the other side. There is a turning to the right to Benafigor where the road goes slightly higher but no height marker here. I placed the BIG sticker on the south facing Port del Collao BIG number 452, 1015m summit plate on road CV170 and rode back down to Atzeneta and took CV165 to La Torre road. This is bushland and semi-barren. On from there to Albocasser, a sizeable place and along the narrow street and joined CV10 to La Janin, another pretty village, passing a roadside plate indicating the Greenwich longitude. From here on to Triguera, to Elcastell then El Pas and narrow pot-holed lane towards la Galare, St Barbara and Tortosa. From Tortosa I took a left and rode a pot holed lane heading straight for Monte Caro, BIG number 450. I was glad that the pot holed road gave way to smooth tarmac road at the foot of the climb to the plateau before the top or it would have made for a hard climb. The final 5km section reverted to pot-holes but at least the end was in sight, the masts at the top perched on the rocks could be seen from a good distance. The final section from the right turn-off to the restaurant is indicated as 44m to Monte Caro – I don’t know what that means – I guess it should read 4.4km. At the top I asked two Spanish girls to take my photo – they got me to do good poses. It took me three hours to climb the mountain and ½ an hour to descend! The final section is a white gritty road. There’s a monument at the top. Back down I found a *** hotel at the roundabout in the centre of Tortosa at 55€, bed and breakfast. I had a meal in a nearby restaurant.
Sunday 15th June 2008
Tortosa to Soria
A long way from Tortosa heading north for the direct road over to Gandesa, great views on the way down from Pandoles then west to Alcaňiz and confusion in the streets at Zaragoza in trying to get away from the busy main road. I stopped for a coffee at Atagon and took a left onto a quieter road for Tarazona, leaving it at Vera de Moncayo to enter the national park of the Moncayo area. First of all I passed an old monastery then took the leafy lane through bracken to the wooded area at the car park and on up to the next climb, El Moncayo BIG number 447. This was a very pleasant, tree sheltered route all the way except for the clamber over the rocks for the last kilometre to the sanctuary. At Moncayo, BIG sticker placed on plate to the right before the track up the mountain, as far as any bike will go, after the restaurant next to a water tap and fountain. It was a long trip to get here from Tortosa. I was confused in Zaragosa and asked directions from a cyclist. All ways out were busy main road and so confusing. I followed all signs for Soria. At the turnoff for Moncayo first came the old sanctuary then through the woods to an interpretation office and car park. From that point it’s 12 kilometres to the top. The final 5 kilometres are on a dusty road of fine stones. The final point for cars going up is a small parking area a kilometre from the top where the rest of the road is narrow on a ledge and a surface of large stones and shale. I walked the bike up the final part to El Moncayo.
Some motorists were still driving to the very top but can’t do car suspensions any good. Back down and took the road for Tarazona which was a mistake because it took me a few miles away from the direction I needed to head for. I needed to go through Agreda to save time, followed by 59 kilometres to Soria at 20.00. I found cheap accommodation at the quieter north end of town but still set me back 35€. Later I went for a meal in the better part of town.
Monday 16th June 2008
Soria to Logrono
I left Soria at 08.00 for Cidones then followed the side of a huge reservoir and took SO830 road to El Quintan along a rough pot-holed lane then a smooth climb up to Laguna de Urbion, BIG number 446. The final 300 metres walking over large stones then a rough clamber up 33 stone steps to the lake enclosed by white rocks. I placed the BIG sticker on the left hand side of the information board on the wooden platform at the top of the steps, overlooking the lake. It was a peaceful place while I was there, nobody around. There were low clouds around the lake but this didn’t obscure the mountains opposite. I went back down again, the restaurant just below the top was closed for renovations. I took the smoother, wider road back to Vinuesa, a pity really as I was hoping I was on the road to Durueto to save time but missed seeing the turn-off. Vinuesa may be a holiday place as most of the buildings are neat in appearance and all made of the same local brown stone. It rained from Durela but went off when I reached Quintanar. I passed a man walking alongside a cart leading a donkey pulling a cart with two dogs in tow – a local rag and bone man perhaps. Up to Laguna Negra, BIG number 442, on a side road to the left, an immediate climb away from the road I came in on. I went up as far as the bike can go as only a rough path continues to the lake a few hundred yards away. I placed the BIG sticker on a loose metal plate so somebody else must go along there and secure the plate! I can imagine a cyclist climbing up there with hammer and nails – might need a power drill as well! I took a look at the view from Mirador San Francisco and could see one of the lakes a long way down below among the rocks to the left as I was leaving. Motorists can’t go beyond the locked gate to the lake so have to take to the footpath to reach the upper lake. Back down via Huerta in the hope of getting up to Ezcaray over Cruz Demanda from the south but as I found out later at the top of that BIG, it just wasn’t possible, there is no road up there only a track and very steep. I got confused and couldn’t find any road north from Huerta de Arriba anyway. I continued west to Barbadillo and up to Puerto Manquillo and a long way round via Pineda where coaches were lined up by some old building. Following that is another large reservoir to the left (west). The road suddenly widens after Pineda. After Fresneda there is a sudden climb up again with great views as its all open country. From here it’s down again and on to Ezcaray. I had a hot chicken roll and cool beer at a café here, great to know that the couple who run the place speak good English. He was telling me of the best places to do mountain biking and suggested the area around Valdescaray. I had set my sights on getting up the next BIG which is Cruz de la Demanda, BIG number 443. This was a long climb that begins at Posadas where the road narrows as the climb starts. It’s an interesting climb through woods then open country to a barren windy area and a sudden end to the road with no summit marker. There may have been one on the solitary metal pole up there. I wrapped the BIG sticker around this and could see clearly there was no road up here from Huerta to the south. Back down to Ezcaray and north to Santo Domingo and east to Logrono for the night in the rain. I found a hotel on the main road and ate in a pizzeria nearby after a look around the narrow cobbled streets of the old part of the town.
Tuesday 17th June 2008
Logrono to Aguilar del Campoo
Paid up at hotel and got the bike out of three story underground car park. Took wrong turn out – heading for Zaragoza, turned back to Logrono and eventually found Soria road and later turned off for Mandresa. Road to the next pass starts 1km from Rioja then 10km on a road to the left that gradually rises through the bracken. About 2/3 of the way up I pass over a cattle grid then the real climb begins. The road is pot-holed most of the way. Trees line the route and I meet another cyclist on the way up, he was on his way down. We exchanged words but of course I hadn’t a clue what he was saying! There are four masts at the top of the road, Moncalvillo BIG number 444, then the road dips a bit on the other side, and a bend to the right. After 700 metres the road ends at a gate by an electric outstation. I placed the BIG sticker at the traffic sign indicating no cars or motor bikes allowed – as if they would – it’s a field. I took a photo, draping my BIG shirt over the sign. Back down the hill in fog, there’s only one way up and down, cows looking on inquisitively. Back to the main road then headed south 18km to Villaneuve and up to Pena Hincada, BIG number 445. This name was the only summit marker plate I could find, there are none higher as the road falls away again on the other side. I placed the BIG sticker on the only sign facing east. I waited for two loud farmers to wander off to feed their sheep before I could take photos. I wish they had moved their landrover as it was right in front of the sign so would have to include it in the photos. It was a pot-holed road up the pass but smoother down the other side but a lot further down this way, seemed to take forever.
On to the Herrera to the north, marvellous scenery on the way up but the top is uninteresting and a disappointment as it’s covered by trees with a small electric sub station on the right coming up from the south. I placed the BIG sticker on the north facing summit plate, BIG number 415, the Balcony of Rioja and managed to damage the paint on my top tube as the bike slid down the marker post. At 16.00 and still a long way to go from here to reach Aguilar de Campoo 160km (100 miles) away where I planned to reach by the end of the day. I had some confusion at Haro as I couldn’t find the correct road so followed signs for San Domingo. I eventually reached the N232 road and on to Pancorba where I had a slight problem again. I didn’t realise the N232 road merged with the N1 Burgos road for 8 kilometres and was completely thrown. I asked the way in Pancorbe in my slight Spanish then all became clear. I stayed on the N1 as far as Cornadilla and down a lane to the sleepy village where two old gents pointed the way to Masa for me. This was probably the best excitement they had all day, guiding foreigners. I realised then that I had taken a turning too soon and should have gone round the village where the way would have been obvious. Poza de la Sal along the road to Masa is a gem and the area above the village should be considered as a BIG, perhaps to replace BIG 405 Puerto del Escudo as Poza is very scenic. The road twists and turns through and way above the village to reach Don Quixote style giants, a whole series of gigantic proportion whooshing windmills, so many that I couldn’t count them. This is a long, straight road and slightly up all the way to Masa and 6km across to the N627 road then right for Aguilar. There were roadworks a few miles before reaching the town where a cement mixer was in the middle of the road pouring cement into ditches then men were ready with large plates to cover the road but it wasn’t possible to get past so joined the ever longer queue of cars for nearly an hour. In Aguilar I found a hotel then a pizza place.
Wednesday 18th June 2008
Aguilar de Campoo to Felgueras (Pola de Lena)
Leaving Aguilar at 09.00 I followed the Embalse, great scenery as an introduction to the Picos de Europa to Cervara over an old bridge then north climbing to the top of the Piedrasleuagas and a viewing platform to the left of the road at the top, great views of the area over the other side of the pass. At the viewing platform are photos of the old viewing platform in snow conditions, now demolished. It’s a long way down from here to Potes. In the town I wasted a lot of time trying to get somebody to look at my digital camera but didn’t succeed. I tried the tourist information office but that was closed, also two shops that sell photo equipment, remotely. On from here to Puerto de San Glorio, BIG number 402. I met an English guy up here who is on leave for 2 weeks from studying at Cambridge University and returning home from Santandar by ferry to England tomorrow. I asked him to take a photo of me at the summit plate, having placed the BIG sticker on the west facing plate. He said that I was only here for the photos, and I suppose he was quite right! I turned tail and back down then over to Portilla then struck north along a brown gritty surface narrow road to the right, fantastic scenery up to Puerto de Pandetrave. I took a photo here of the Picos de Europe roadside brown plate with a mountain as a backdrop. It’s a very good road as far as this and also down the other side but at the foot is a turning point and thought this was the end of the road, however there’s small gap and a very narrow lane with high hedges that leads through Saint Marina de Valdeon after a few kilometres and on to Posada. Presumably the road is intentionally narrow to discourage coaches and tourist traffic passing through the villages. I had a meal at the open air restaurant in Posada with the couple I had met on the climb up to San Glorio earlier at Mirador de Llesba. I had tuna salad and orange juice. While I was here I asked for accommodation details for a possible future walk with Ruth. This area is the 6th most popular walk in Europe from here to Carmanmera, 12km to the north along a mountain ridge. The couple I shared the meal with are walkers and suggested this would be well worthwhile. I relaxed in the sun after the meal then started the steady climb up to Puerto de Panderruedas (BIG number 399). After Posada the road to the left and top from across the restaurant becomes wider again out of the village and reaches the top of the pass. I placed the BIG sticker on the west side surrounded with great views of some of the highest peaks of the Picos de Europa. On from there to Bura but there was a great hold up between here and Lario as workmen were filling up with concrete over water pipes under the road in several places. One wait took ¾ of an hour and there was much annoyance from many lorry drivers queuing up behind. On to Puerto de Torra, not quite obvious the turn here but over the gravel then to the left where the road opens out to a wider road. Up and over and down the other side to Puebla – and a police station on the corner – so watch it! I took a right here and climbed the San Isidro (BIG number 397). It’s not very impressive from this direction and an easy climb that was over in no time. The other side is more interesting and a longer climb. I had a low alcohol Heineken at the pub on the left at the top and took a photo of the summit plate after placing the BIG sticker on the plate facing east. A long descent down to Ujo then south along familiar roads cycled last year then to the left for Pola de Lena to Felgueras after asking at Hotel Christina to phone them to see if I could stay there. It was amazing that my hosts recognised me after a year, I must have made an impression first time! I had a meal after shower and changing; tomatoes, asparagus, lettuce and egg salad and bread followed by bacon and egg with a bottle of red wine. I repacked my bags for the attempt at l’Angliru tomorrow.
Thursday 19th June 2008
Figueras to Ponferrada
I had great night’s sleep in Figueras and left there at 09.00 after toast and coffee. Armed with the paper that I requested the girl at the Christiana Hotel reception write for me in Spanish to explain my camera problem I set out from Figueras to Pola then tackled the mighty L‘Angliru and finished in Ponferreda tonight. First though I had the continuing saga with the digital camera, soon to be resolved – and it was so simple. I tried a chemist and an electric shop wasting 2 hours in Pola before being directed from the chemist nextdoor to a paper shop where a wizened but wise old man pointed out that the gauge on the camera screen showed white for full memory – not empty memory. He took a photo of me with my camera to prove his point and proved himself better than all the places and persons I visited who should have known better. I should have known the difference and felt a fool. The electric shop even told me that I should go to Oviedo 30 miles away to visit a reputable Sony shop. I withdrew 300€ from a bank in Pola with a 2.½ % interest charge then I was on my way to l’Angliru, BIG number 393, with all that I needed. I started the climb from La Vega and retraced my route of last year relieved that the sticky tarmac of 12 months ago was now a perfect smooth road. The crunch point came at the flat area above the houses as just around the corner and past the gradient warning came the first few series of short hairpins followed by more serious stuff as the longer stretches of road loomed ahead where the straight sections are longer and the hairpins steeper. I met up with a Spaniard at the second larger section bend who was waiting for me. He told me he wasn’t Spanish but Euskadi from Donastia and not San Sebastian! He wore a yellow cycle vest proudly displaying ‘Euskatal’. We rode together to the top but before that we both had to get off and walk at the last long steep section before the road swings into the mountain and over to an upper valley where the large car park in the gravel is the turning point and the end of the road. He asked two motorists near the top where two cars were parked about the road conditions at the top as it was in mist. As we passed over the edge away from the hairpins the mist was also left behind and we had a clear view at the top, perfect for photographs – and a lot of them! This was also the reason why he wanted someone to bike with him; he wanted his proof on camera that he reached the top, I was glad to oblige as long as he returned the favour. The bends spiralled upwards from the parked cars but eventually a slight down then the car park was in sight. He must have taken a couple of dozen photos, not that there’s much scenery up there as the car park is surrounded by rocky crags but it didn’t stop him taking photos of cows, silly moo. I placed the BIG sticker on the only board I could find up there, a wooden board on a wooden post to the left of the car park on the way down. More photos on the way down and he warned me not to pull my brakes on too sharply on the descent as there is a danger of the rims overheating and bursting the tubes. Halfway down, and I think at the same point I met my Euskadi friend on the way up, we met an English cyclist from Runcorn (!) riding an expensive looking ultra lightweight Italian bike, a beautiful job with white frame, red and silver piping and expensive fittings, the Harley Davidson of the cycling world. His front gear seemed high and he had only two chainrings but of course he’d make it. He mailed me at home later to say that he’d taken a note of the BIG website from the sticker I placed on the wooden board and promptly joined the club when he returned home. The last I saw of my Euskadi friend was when we left the Englishman to his climb, but then I was too slow on the way down camera clicking.
Back in La Vega I tried a hotel for food but outside was too noisy and dusty with workmen repairing the road. I had coffee and tapas at a bar at the bottom of the Angliru then carried on through Pola to Campomanes and along the main road for the Pajaras Pass, BIG number 396. This is a gradual climb and an uninspiring road as its wide and very busy, too noisy for cycling. I placed the BIG sticker on the road summit plate facing south, risking it crossing the road at a blind bend at the summit as lorries were passing along. Fortunately a very slow one was on its way up so the coast was clear on one side and I could see down the other. At La Polo de Gordon down the other side I took a right turn to Embalse Luna. Once there I was impressed with the huge span of the cantilever bridge carrying the motorway from Pola to Leon. The road to this point is very scenic with a short pass at Collado de Arclia. It’s an interesting road from Embalse Luna on to Villablino. It’s a smooth wide road in barren countryside and very little traffic except on the approach to Villablino. Towards Villablino I was retracing last year’s route in reverse to Somiedo but carried on west eventually reaching Ponferrada but first to look out for Puerto de Ancares BIG number 381 to the north. I took the road south west and made the mistake of going to the pretty little village of Paramo del Sil, worth a diversion though as it’s an interesting village of close houses around narrow cobbled streets with central water channels. Turned tail and passed a lorry picking up dead crushed snakes from the road, don’t fancy their job. I found the road I wanted, almost opposite across the main road and indicated for Fabero on LE711 passing through Sorbeda. Fabero is an open cast coal mining area, the small town reminiscent of a Welsh mining town in the valley surrounded by the scars of mined hill slopes. From here south to Vega and found the road from there to Ancaras, BIG381 but the road was undergoing heavy repairs and hard to get through along the loose stones and gravel but at least I attempted it. I did an about turn and headed south for Ponferrada and found accommodation near the castle bridge. It would only cost me 28€ but it was nothing more than a glorified doss house so found another hotel through the streets a bit more. It was 3*** and cost me 48€ but at least I could sleep and enjoy a relaxing evening. I went back to the first hotel to grab my bag from the room and handed in my key and apologised. Around the castle bridge were many walkers coming in from over tomorrow’s first climb, Foncebadon. It was late in the day and they were intently looking at a town map so presumably looking for accommodation. I pointed out my hotel to them but they declined. I went out for a pizza in a restaurant at the roundabout near the bridge. From there back to the hotel with the remains of a bottle of red wine, read for a while and to bed at 23.00.
Friday 20th June 2008
Ponferrada to Alto de San Clodio (BIG number 378)
After a good breakfast at the hotel – and I really stocked up for later! First I had more breakfast at the café opposite the castle then took a stroll along the castle walls, taking a few photos. Soon I was out on the road heading for Molinaseca where the road starts to climb among short ferns and castellated walled road sides up to Acebo, a very nice village of one cobbled street and a few shops and a bar / café that sells local wines and ciders (sidre), I sampled some on the way down from the next pass. The road climbs more and becomes narrow to Acebo village perched at the point where the real road to the Foncebadon pass road begins (BIG number 384). Acebo village is on the Camino de Santiago route and is always full of walkers, today being no exception. The village is one long street of houses huddled together over a cobbled narrow road with a central water channel barely wide enough for one car to pass through – and if it dares to the walkers will frown as they lounge in the shade of the buildings on the cobbles. It’s old and rustic, maybe it s touristy-rustic but its still a pleasant and peaceful place and I would like to come here again and pass over the whole pass and not have to turn back the way I came. One day maybe a bike tour of the Camino de Santiago – especially as I have not been to that final destination. Also I could include the final Galician pass that I’m avoiding because of the distance north from this year’s route – BIG number 377 on the north-west tip at Cabo Ortegal. Back to present day to Foncebadon and I’m on my way to the top flanked by many walkers heading the other way, some on the road but most of them on a parallel path to the north. I passed many metal crosses, one at the highest point of the road but I couldn’t place a BIG sticker there. That would be totally sacrilegious! Instead I saw a road off to the left (north) that led to an old disused military camp and this was higher than the road over to Astorga. This went up to a radio mast and so planted the BIG sticker there on the gate to the left hand side. On the way down I had a sidre at a bar in Acebo and had a look at the history of the place on the wall hangings then made my way down until I came to a road junction soon after the village. I asked a German walker if the road to the left led across to Espinoso to short cut the route for my next climb to the south west, the Morredero, BIG number 383. He wasn’t sure but in conversation told me he was walking the whole Camino from Pied St Port in France to Santiago de Compostella (Santiago on the Compost is far less romantic) and covering 25km each day and taking him 3 months to complete it. That is mind boggling! Ninety days x 25 km each day is 2200km.I carried on down the road back to Ponferrada and took a left almost immediately and biked up through Salas, a narrow cobbled street through a huddle of houses then steep and direct but not a difficult road to San Cristobal, another village of the same layout but this had only a bar and I would visit this on the way down later. Morredero is a long, tough climb through barren countryside to reach the top, a true sierra. I was only passed by one car. I placed the BIG sticker at the summit plate facing north on the west side of the road then turned around and freewheeled most of the way back to San Cristobell except for one short climb crossing a valley. Back down to Ponferreda for the last time and I asked at a hotel, a posh place on a main road with suits of armour inside. I needed direction along the N536 and was soon on the right road for the next conquest. I took a stop at Barco to buy from a supermarket. Shortly afterwards I was told off by the police at Medua for having my bike parked over a white line! I stopped to look at the map to decide if I should take a narrow hilly road to the left from where lorries were coming down, maybe this was the road to the next climb I wanted to do.
While I was pondering this they came alongside and to me to move it beyond the line. I explained why I had stopped and told me that the turning was the next road to the left, a wider and safer road. They then escorted me – a motor bike in front and behind me to that turning. People in Sobradelo at the road junction must have been wondering who the famous cyclist was to have police escort. The leading motor cyclist pointed out the road and they carried on and left me to it. I was on a wide road up to Casaio where there is a turning to the right for lorries going down to a huge open cast coal mining area. From there the road is narrower and steep in places, eventually reaching a very barren road summit, the Fonte da Cova BIG number 382. To the right (west) is the open cast mining area in a huge bowl cut out of the side of the mountain. At the top on the other side of the road is a large gravel area and except for the road summit plate there is no other object or growth up here. A road goes down to the right for the mining area and many white vans were on the way up carrying workers who waved at me as I took photos of the BIG sticker on the one and only plate up here, this faces north on the east side of the road. Back down the pass the way I came and along a wide road through A Rúa then took a right for Quiroga and up to Alto de Boi (BIG number 379). Again there were road workings on the way up, many loose stones. There are many bends in the ascent on a steep and narrow road following cliff edges. I placed the BIG sticker on the summit marker plate facing south on the west side of the road. Back down again the same way and I crossed from Quiroga to San Clodio and became confused trying to find the right road for the next climb, Alto de San Clodio (BIG number 378). I asked at the railway station café but got no response as I couldn’t ask in Spanish so tried to find the road by taking a left parallel to the rail line along a narrow road but soon discovered this was taking me too far out for a right turn to the mountain, I was heading for Sequeiros. I went back into the village and came to a road junction and asked a local. He told me to take the next right – which wasn’t far from the station and over a level crossing where the climb starts straight away. Towards the top I succeeded in stopping traffic as the setting sun was directly in my eyes. It was getting late at 21.00 and couldn’t find anywhere to stay the night. I found my way to the top but found there is no obvious road summit to the Alto de San Clodio. I rode on further south and took a left that seemed to go higher. This reached a stone quarry and seemed to be the highest point but nowhere to place a sticker and certainly no height marker. I went back down and retraced to where I came up but there are no higher roads and it was now getting dark quickly. It was warm enough to sleep out in the open at 22.00
Saturday 21st June 2008
Alto de San Clodio to Viana do Castelo
Down the mountain, BIG number 378 and had a couple of coffees and croissants in A Pobra and asked the way to Manzaneda (BIG number 380). I reached the ski resort at the top of the road and placed the BIG sticker on a plate by a noisy go-cart area but on the way down about 50 metres to the left I saw a sign indicating Manzaneda Superior. I had just been to Manzaneda Inferior. I took the road and soon discovered the climb was a lot further yet. Though narrower and steeper this is much more of a pleasure to climb. I reached the radio mast after many twists in the road, a final left turn taking me round the back of the radio masts then slightly down to reach the top of the ski lift and the refuge area. There’s a short grassy rise to the right where a viewpoint is situated on the top. I placed the BIG sticker on an indication board in front of the refuge. Two large upright boulders in the centre of the turning area mark the centenary of the opening of the road by the Spanish President. Back down the pass and on to the large reservoir at Chandrexa to the west. I took photos by the dam and of the reservoir. From here it’s a scenic road up through Parades to a short rise, Alto del Rodicio then down from here on to the road OU536 to Ourensee. I passed straight through the town following signs for Vigo on the coast. It was a long way along a busy main road so took a stop halfway at Caniza for a paella and mixed salad as well as two bottles of coke (mainly in stock) for energy. I don’t normally go for coke but the caffeine gives a good energy boost. I turned off south later at Porrino for BIG number 376 south of Vigo. When I reached Tui I ignored the turning to the left for Portugal and carried on until I reached a café on the right on a left bend, called Café Unclex, where I asked the way to be certain. A turning to the right here leads up to Monte Alhoya having passed through the not so nice lower part of the climb through the upper part of Tui then and a beautiful rise into the national park area. The area is well wooded and pleasant in the shade all the way to the top. I placed the sticker on a covered wooden information board at the road summit, opposite a large grey building. A posh motorist up here got in the way too often as he cruised round and got in the way of my photography. I had an ice-lolly from a shop here – and needed it. Back down the pass and called in at the information centre, really good because the girl spoke English. I was give English brochure details of the parkland and in return was asked statistics for her records. Back down and across from Tui, turn right and over the metal girder bridge over the river Mino and into Portugal. I posed with the bike at the Portugal sign just over the bridge. From here I came to a roundabout, a turn to the left then after about 100 metres a turn to the right and an indication for the next climb, my first ever in Portugal. It was easy to find and I was given detail of how to find it from the information centre on Monte Alhoya. Soon I was climbing Monte do Faro BIG number 501 following open grassy slopes to end at a turning point and closed café. In the far corner of the turning point is a narrow cobbled way that goes steeply up all the way to the radio masts in a meandering route. I planted the BIG sticker on an upright supporting the wire mesh fence surrounding the radio masts, there was nowhere else to stick it. Back down and on along a very busy main road, scary motorway type, as far as Viana do Castelo on the coast where I found a cheap 4**** hotel for 40€ including breakfast. It was dark when I arrived so didn’t see the coast.
Sunday 22nd June 2008
Viana do Castelo to Vila Real
I followed the coast a little way then joined the busy main road to Braga, stopping part way to take a photo of a huge Portuguese flag by the side of the road. It was carnival atmosphere in Braga, I went straight through and followed the signs for Bom Jesus, the next climb, BIG number 508. It was a fairly easy climb up from the car park. The road is paved stones most of the way until I reached the cafés and souvineer shops where the smell of donkeys encouraged me to carry on up, I don’t know how anyone can eat there. The road from here to the dome at the top is smooth. Part way up to the cafés a stone bridge crosses the road. Over this a long series of zig-zag steps that goes to a church halfway up the hillside. I bought some postcards and stamps from a kiosk at the foot of the steps next to the road, (stamps for the rest of Europe are 0.61€ each). I posted these at Caramulhino a couple of days later. The final section of the climb to Bom Jesus is a gradual up, nothing steep to the large dome church. I placed the BIG sticker behind the church away from where the majority of tourists wander, on the right. Down again and took the road through Guimaraes then succeeded in getting lost on the road past Fafe. To the east of there I passed through the area from Fafe to Varzea Cova before finding the right road to the south that took me to Gandarga then along the valley to Mondim for a very steep and hot climb up from the garage at the road junction to the start of the climb and immediately up. There’s a church at the top of Nossa Senhora da Graça, BIG number 502 and the area is built on three levels and stone paved. I placed a BIG sticker near the top on a metal box to the right of steps leading to the church. I soon found out that the box was hot – a lit candle box so that sticker won’t be there long! I placed a second sticker on a metal frame on the second level at the rear of the church, on the right hand side facing away from the church and outward so hopefully it won’t be peeled off by tourists.
Back down the mountain to Mondim then a long arduous effort on the road up and over to Ermeto through great scenery. It was back down from there to Campea. I took a right along the very busy main road over Alto Espinho, then a right to Marao and took the next road to the left, the old N15 that only lead me down to Vila Real. What I should have done, I found out the following day, was to take a right (south) after 3 kilometres where there is an indistinguishable yellow sign – the road that leads to Marao mountain. The road sign was obliterated and may have originally indicated Marao. I continued on and came into Vila Real. It was confusing at first and took me a while round the town streets to find a hotel, I asked a policeman on points duty. It was a 3*** hotel but not expensive. I went out for a pasta meal in the shopping complex over the high a long bridge over the river deep in the valley gorge, left and left again into the shopping area. It was very busy here and totally unlike the outside area from the hotel to here where there weren’t many people. There were loads of shops open for a Sunday. I had a wonderful pasta and took most of the wine back to the hotel, retracing my route in an unknown town. I slept at about 23.00
Monday 23rd June 2008
Vila Real to Caramulinho (BIG number 510)
I was directed at the hotel on how to get to the Marao mountain, BIG number 504 and again where I asked at a small hotel below Espinho. I asked how to reach the radio masts at the top. It was a long trip but well worth it. A pot-holed road leads to the top, very steep to begin with through the woods that eventually gives way to a wide clearing with the red and white radio masts in sight a long way ahead. Here it isn’t as steep, especially the last few kilometres with the peak with the masts getting close – or rather me getting closer to the peak! I placed the BIG sticker on the highest piece of metal I could find. As usual it was on an upright pole supporting mesh that surrounds the radio masts. There really isn’t anywhere else where the stickers will stay for any length of time. Tell Daniel Gobert this is a new game; not ‘hunt the slipper’ but ‘hunt the sticker’. The sticker can be clearly seen though on the approach along the final section of a short steep rise along cobbles. The sticker is close to the white concrete stump marking the actual summit of Marao. I was being watched suspiciously by an African worker as I stuck the sticker on the post. I hope it remains. It was a long ride but well worth it. Back down and along the main road back to Vila Real then a long haul up to Barragem do Alvao BIG number 503 on Alvao marked by the lakes at the top. I had no choice but to place the BIG sticker on a wooden post at the top, to the left of the road before the top lake. This can be seen from the road. A Portuguese member must check that it remains and renew it. The climb up is paved on the lower section through Berbela but the road is wider and smoother after that and 8 kilometres to the top according to cycle road race scrawling along the road at every kilometre. Plenty of favourite cyclists’ names chalked on the road, for sure this is a mediatic climb. After this I took the road south from Vila Real and glad to see the back of the town after three times in and out. I continued along the very busy and very wide NZ road. It was alright most of the way but then I got confused at Castro Daire and continued on to Carverhal instead of taking the road N228 through Pepim. I realised afterwards where I went wrong as I saw my turn off but as it was a narrow road close to bridge on a bend I thought it lead back to Castro, it wasn’t obvious because the road goes back towards the town, it must bend to the left shortly after. At Carverhal I took a road across to the N228 at Alva, a pretty little village of narrow paved streets with old houses huddled together. I rode on from here to the correct road, more of a country road this than the wide motorway resembling main road. At St. Felix I took the sharp turn to the right for Sao Macário (BIG number 513) that hardly rises as far as Sal then makes up for it after passing through the narrow paved streets by rising steeply to Macieire where locals wear their old traditional costumes. Following on up to the radio masts at the top of San Macário, I took some photos of the interesting landscape around. As usual the red and white masts and this time I was completely alone up there and placed the BIG sticker at the highest metal post in the same way on an upright pole supporting mesh surrounding the masts. Back down and into San Pedro and a country road to Viseu and had no choice but to take the busy wide motorway style main road to Tondela for the country road that rises all the way to Caramulo, through Campo, a sprawled out village of shops and bars along the main street. At Santiago there’s a viewpoint. I took a look at this then up from there saw a large hotel perched high on the hillside where I was heading. I would stay here the night, a 4**** but not so expensive and I could have a very full breakfast. I finished the day with a short ride up to Caramulinho (BIG number 510) and placed the BIG sticker on a board at the end of and to the right of the road, west side.
On the way up I passed a huge wind turbine that looked eerie in the low cloud with sun breaking through in the last hour of daylight. The road to the top is a spur road to the left for the final kilometre that ends at the rocks of the mountain top, a short walk away from the end of the road. The road up passes over past the spur and down to villages on the other side but I didn’t venture that far. Later I had a wander around Caramulo to find a café for a meal but the only two there had stopped serving so back to the hotel for bath and change and had a meal in the restaurant later in the evening; salad and pasta and took wine and dessert to my room later – or rather the pretty waitress did. I could enjoy the Jacuzzi, gym, sauna and swimming pool at 10.00 the next morning.
Tuesday 24th June 2008
Caramulo to Covilha
Well I was going to enjoy the hotel facilities and take the morning off riding so had a lie in to enjoy the hotel luxury, only to be told at the reception at 10.00am my time that it was really only 09.00am. I wondered why there were so few people in for breakfast 2 hours ago! Portuguese time is the same as British Summer Time, I should have changed my watch after crossing in from Spain. Of course, it’s the same longitude. Disappointed I rode out and made another visit to the Caramulinho, a clear morning unlike last evening’s low mist. I took some more photos then back down through the woods to Campo and back to Tondela and along the busy main road for Coimbra as far as Figueira where I turned off for Luso to the north.
It was a very pleasant ride through woods from the main road to Luso, about 10 kilometres, rising steadily on a wide road and not too busy. It seemed a long way along here through the woods to Luso and the gate that led up here to the hotel and eventually to the top of Bucaco and the cross at the top. I reached the stone gateway to the right on entering Luso then through the gateway and up to the ornate hotel, the road consisting of grey stone paving. The large ornate grey-brown hotel on the way up after 3 kilometres is worth a stop for photos. From there it’s 6 kilometres to the stone cross at the top of the Bucaco (BIG number 506)
I placed the BIG sticker on a green metal post to the right of the base of the steps leading up to the cross from where there’s a great view of the country below. I took some photos of the ornate hotel and gardens. Coach visitors spewed out around the grounds and seemed I was included in some of their photos. I felt out of place here and may have been looked down on – but on my achievements I can look down on them. From Bucaco I headed south through Penecova then avoided Coimbra by way of Vale de Vaide then a country road to Lousa and asked the way to the mountain. Superman answered in excellent English. He directed me to the mountain, Alto do Trevim (BIG number 509). He told me to go through the town and look out for a hotel on the right. The start of the mountain road is to the left from there. Sure enough, he was right. I saw him again further along the road, maybe he flew there.
The road up to Candel was steep enough through the twists and turns in the wood. At Candel I left my stuff then continued up for about 4 kilometres to the turn off for Trevim, 8 kilometres further just when I thought I’d reached the top! On reaching the high ground before the 8km turn-off the road levels out along the ridge to the left so that the top with the masts is directly above, but a long way above Candel. Alto do Trevim was proving to be a difficult climb. There are about 8 huge wind turbines in a line along the ridge parallel and right to the road between the turn-off and the radio masts, whooshing in the wind that would have caused Don Quixote to go into a frenzy. These are real giants and noisy too, in a pleasant way. Up to the radio masts and BIG sticker placed in an obscure place so that tourists can’t peel it off and BIG hunters will have to look for it! Back down again to Candel where I met an American couple who have a holiday home on the road where I left my stuff. Back down to Lousa and quickly along through the town and followed signs for Góia then through Arganil. I had an argument with a motorist through Góia who was driving crazily past me. I followed the country lanes to Avo, a pretty little place alongside a river, over the bridge and up the hill for the road junction but I turned off too soon thinking I’d arrived there and got a bit lost, turned back and soon found the right way further uphill. I was clearly told at the bridge to go to the left but I went to the right. I came in 2km to Avo village on the way to Vide.
I turned back and headed uphill through Vila Pouca de Beira then right as I should have done, on to the main road but not so busy and wide for once. Along to the turning for Seia and headed on up a great height and barren scenery through tacky Sabuguerio where there are dozens of stores selling animal furs, mountain equipment, ski jackets, etc. Down to a gorge and steeply up again and followed the road up past the long high wall of the huge dam to Torre Col, BIG number 507, surely the highest in Portugal. I reached the observatory area and placed the BIG sticker at the road sign at the rotunda entrance to the area. I took the usual photos in the late evening light and hoped I could get over the other side of the pass and down the mountain to Covilha before the daylight went. It was getting dark at 22.00 and eventually after searching the town streets I found a reasonable price hotel, the Parque Hotel at 22€ plus breakfast – the best bargain yet! I slept very well after a meal of cheese and ham sandwiches and a couple of large beers (all 8.40€) at an outdoor café opposite the hotel, bed at 00.30.
Wednesday 25th June 2008
Covilha to La Alberca
Out along the busy main road from Covilha to Guarda heading for my final Portuguese climb before heading for the border. I didn’t go into Guarda, a town of white buildings on a hill surrounded by barren countryside. From here there were roadworks as this road was being widened as far as Pionol then I reached a narrow, scenic road in a semi-tropical landscape full of crickets. Over the Rio Cóa then I caught first sight of the Marofa mountain (BIG number 505) ahead, topped with the usual radio masts. From the bottom of the climb most of the baggage was hidden while I took the fairly easy climb along a straight road through pines then gradual zig-zags to the top, about 3 kilometres. The final section is lined with stone huts depicting events of the crucifixion. Finally at the top is a huge stone figure of Jesus with open arms overlooking the valley and Castel Rodrigo below in the plain. I placed the BIG sticker in the usual place, on an upright green post supporting the mesh that surrounds the radio towers, the stone column nearby marks the actual summit. A man in a lookout tower close by acknowledged me. I took a look at the panorama board behind the white chapel then rode back down the mountain, stopping now and again to take some photos of the stone huts on the right on the way down. It’s a long, straight road to the bottom then a 15 mile ride along to the border through flat barren countryside. At Vilar Formosa I passed over to Colonia de la Estacion (Station Colony?), had a coffee and a look around a gift shop at the roundabout. I noticed a man waving a red flag as I started off along the road for Cuidad Rodrigo. The road ahead was blocked by lorries and no hope of anybody getting through. The Spanish fuel strike protests that is all the news at home was seen at first hand and the Spanish were taking it seriously. I headed north then east after about 5 kilometres through small villages La Alameda de Gardon and Gallegos de Arganan where I headed south again and back to the main road and on to Cuidad Rodrigo. There was no traffic on the main road coming from Portugal so I had done the right thing by taking the diversion. Just before the town I turned off to the south along the CL526 then very soon on the lane – almost missed, had to turn back-to Pastores where I took a photo of a large storks nest and storks on top of a church bell tower. An old lady came out to see what I was doing on her doorstep, it was the best place to take the photo! I headed south further and took the middle road to Martiago then an immediate climb for 12 kilometres to the top of Puerto Viego (BIG number 456), a road up through shrub-land to a sign at the top that only gave indication of distances to Martiago and Salamanca. I placed the BIG sticker on the plate here, facing south then passed over the top and down for what seemed a long way to Cadalso and the junction with the valley road heading west for La Alberca. It was a great distance down to the road followed by a hot and tiring ride along the Sierra de los Angeles (the mountains of the angels) and an obscure road to the left heading up to Portillo (BIG number 457) through gorges on the way up and over the top to La Alberca. It’s a great view from the top, looking over the other side. I placed the BIG sticker on the north facing summit marker plate. There’s a short rise here to the left (west) that goes to Portillo las Batuecas but as it’s only a short distance I carried on over, I didn’t fancy riding off-road. I soon found accommodation in La Alberca and met with a very friendly manager there who spoke some English and insisted on calling me ‘Mr Kevin’. After a sleep for an hour and wash and change I went out to discover the delights of the village. It’s a picturesque black and white area around narrow cobbled streets with many tourist shops and restaurantsI bought what I thought were turron in the village but they’re only large round biscuits. I managed to get most of them home without crumbling. It was only at home when Wendy visiting told me this wasn’t the honey and almond fudge called turron. Ruth threw them away but I could understand that!
Thursday 26th June 2008
La Alberca to El Barco de Avila
Left early for a ride along the valley for 6 kilometres for Pena de Franca (BIG number 458), having left most of my stuff in the hotel and pick up again later. The climb from the foot of the pass is 8 kilometres and marked with kilometre posts all the way. This was one of the most interesting climbs of my tour this year, plenty to see and good views most of the way. The white tower at the top can be seen from most of the way up so was easy to gauge just how far the climb would be. On the lower slopes the way forward is through bracken. There’s wildlife living there, not sure what but something of a good size moved behind the cover when I passed. Eventually the road opens out into a clearing. Part way up is a road that goes off to the left (west) and crosses the sierra for Cuidad Rodrigo. Further up the road turns to the right almost in a circle as the white tower on the way up is perched high above. I passed some workmen resurfacing the road over pot holes on the final slopes. They were very courteous and gave way and stopped working to allow me to pass, the lookout blowing a whistle. It was the same on the way down. Rounding the last bend to the left I reach the top, passing the white tower to my right then to the old monastery where tourists are free to visit. It was a welcome shelter from the hot sun. At the very end of the road is a huge stone sundial sunk into the ground with a lower walkway around it and a couple of short tunnels leading out to the rocky slopes by the side of the road. I placed the sticker on the footpath indicator sign but on the outward facing plate so it’s not so noticeable to peel off. I got a tourist to take my photo with the sign and I took a few more at the end of the road then turned tail and descended. Back to La Alberca and collected my belongings, had a coffee and sandwich in the village and bought some more of those biscuits that Ruth threw away! I continued on from there, by the side of my hotel and along narrow congested lanes through Mogarraz, Miranda and Cristobal for a better wider road down to Bejar. I had to stop just before it as there was a controlled explosion just north of La Calzada in blasting rocks for a new road along here. Through Bejar and up through the town to a crossroads then right for the climb to El Travieso (BIG number 459). This was a quiet road as it’s a no through road. First of all hairpins up through the woods then to a clearing and reached a small crossroads where there’s a café – but no customers. I sat there for a while and ate a couple of oranges then continued along the final section of the climb with great views to the right of Bejar and the valley a long way down. I reached the abrupt end of the road at a road summit plate on the right and placed the BIG sticker. A couple of photos and rest for a while then back down again into Bejar. I asked the way for the road to Plasencia and turned off for Banos and Hervas for the next climb, the Puerto de Honduras (BIG number 460). This pass proved to take ages to get over and hoped I could make my way some distance toward Avila before it got late in the day. I took a wrong turning in Hervas and the road got so narrow it eventually petered out into a track, this was despite asking the way. I was told wrong. I back-tracked (literally!) and headed back into the small town. At a crossroads I asked again and was told to go straight on and take a right at the end of the road – last time I took a left. This man was right, and I was on my way up the mountain, however this was scary. It’s a very narrow road with a hedge to the left and rocks to the right – over which is a sheer drop. There are many hair-raising hairpins on the way up. The top was nowhere near as spectacular as the ascent and descent. At the top is a small farm building to the left, set back from the road and metal sheep pens to the right. There was nowhere to place a sticker for my conquest so another BIG member had better ride up there with a pole, board, hammer and nails!
Steeply down the other side with great views of the valley below. I passed some English cyclists who were on the way up and had a long way to reach there. One had clearly had enough and was stopped leaning over his handlebars, I could see he was overcome with heat and gave him some coke and chocolate. Down to the valley and took a right, south for Cabezuela and the next turn to the left for the next climb, the Puerto del Piornal (BIG number 462). I didn’t find this climb very interesting. It’s a main road up through open countryside through Valdastillas, on its own an interesting town of white houses and shops. I reached Piornal and thought that it was a dull place of old drab buildings. I passed through here and the road was now less of a climb and up to the top of the pass in a clearing. There’s no road summit plate up there so again a local BIG member needs to get up there and do a DIY job. I turned around and back down the road and right along the main road heading for El Barco de Avila. I had one more climb to do along the main road before there and was conscious that time was against me, having spent so long on the Puerto de Honduras. It was a late evening ride up the Puerto de Tornavacas (BIG number 461), steep in places but as it’s a main road it’s a good surface up and over and on to El Barco. The climb starts from Tornavacas village and is quite steep, taking me 40 minutes to get up there. I had time before dark to take photos and placed a BIG sticker on the road summit plate facing west. Quickly down to El Barco. Originally I had planned for a stay in Piedrahita further along the main road for an easy start up to Puerto de la Peňa Negra the following morning but there was no way I could reach there at a decent hour. I just managed to reach a hotel on the main road before El Barco and booked in for the night. I washed and changed and had a great meal and collapsed satisfied at 23.00.
Friday 27th June 2008
El Barco de Avila to Segovia
I had really good breakfast after a lie in this morning. Today’s climbs are in a small area and as long as I reached Avila this evening I would be on target for reaching Madrid airport the following afternoon. I woke up with a fantastic view from my window in the morning light, looking across where gardeners were tilling the ground to the Sierra de Grados mountain range and the low sun over it creating an orange hue over the landscape. On the way out I took a look at El Barco castle to begin with and had a walk around there. I could see the castle from my hotel window so wanted to see it close up. From there I set out along the main road to Piedrahita and asked the way at a shop where to go for the road up to Puerto de la Peňa Negra, BIG number 463. I was directed along a narrow short cut through the village and after 2 kilometres met up with the main route up the pass. The way up is easy at first but there are steep sections and hairpins further up in the clearing from where I could see the top. There were some people up there laying out and preparing their hang gliders for take off. The final sections were more difficult, after emerging from the woods the road does a sweep to the left then a long section to the right, another two hairpins then the final section after a left hand bend. At the top, a final turn to the right for the road summit marker. I placed the BIG sticker on the plate facing north, stopped for a while then continued over the pass to Navacepeda, a less interesting side for the descent among bracken. I took a left in the village to meet up with the main road from Talavera (of Sharpe’s fame, the Bernard Cornwall stories of the Peninsula War against Napoleon). I turned to the north then soon after a turn to the east heading for Navalosa then steeply downhill to Navarrevisca for the climb up to Collado de Serranillos (BIG number 464). I passed through Serranillos, one long narrow street then slowly up on a hot ride to the top, about 4 kilometres. I could see the ridge at the top from the start of the climb so could gauge how long it would take. Once there I placed the sticker on the road summit plate to the right of the road, facing north. On that side is another track going up to the radio mast but no point in going up there. Back down again the way I came up, this time avoiding the narrow street through the village and took the main road to the east of it and continued on to Navarrevisca and right along a ridge with views to the north down to the valley of the Rio Alberche and right again to a road junction with the road coming up from Burgohondo and started my last climb of the tour, well of BIG’s anyway. Up through the woods and eventually into a rocky terrain, a bend to the left and to a river bridge and waterfall then a sharp bend to the left and along to one final hairpin to the right for the final section to the top of Puerto de Mijares (BIG number 465). At the top I placed the BIG sticker on the road summit plate facing south then took some photos – and a photo of inquisitive brown cows! A great view over the top down the other side towards Talavera but I wasn’t going that way. I needed to push on to Avila so did an about turn down to the foot of the Puerto at Villaneuva de Avila where I took a photo of the white houses with a large church in the background. I rode straight on from there through Burgohondo and up the final pass for today, the Puerto de Navalmoral on a rocky outcrop with a white chapel to the east. Over the top from here and passing lush fields with a distant view of Avila ahead, into the town on this minor road. I thought about the possibility of finding somewhere to stay in Avila but I had time to continue on to Segovia because I really wanted to enjoy that city this evening, relive past memories and take some time around the Roman Aqueduct and the Alcazar in the morning. I found a hotel to stay at on the main road heading south for Madrid.
Saturday 28th June 2008
Segovia to Barajas Airport, Madrid, and home
Breakfast wasn’t included in the hotel price so I wandered down to the Roman Aquaduct and had a look around there and took some photos then headed for the Alcazar and found a stall where I bought a carton of orange juice and a couple of croissants. I strolled around the town most of the morning then made my way south over the Puerto de Guadarrama, pleased to see the BIG sticker was still on the summit plate there. It was a different place than on my first day as I only saw it in the evening light before and in overcast weather. Today it was bright and sunny. I continued on down through Guadarrama village and a very busy main road all the way back to the airport. I was confused when I was so near it, having to risk main road, almost motorway as I couldn’t see any other way of getting to the airport. I made it back with plenty of time to spare. I dismantled the bike and bagged it. I had to pay 15€ for the two pannier bags as they were not on the original online booking I made. The only mishap was buying some Jagermeister and sweets for Mark at duty free and leaving it on a counter where I bought a cheese roll. The plane was a bit late leaving but arrived in Liverpool 10 minutes early. I left the bike in the bag and hailed a taxi home – it cost me far too much so had better bike it next time. Arriving home, there was nobody there so had a long, long bath and changed ready for Ruth.