Tuesday 2nd May 2017
Holmes Chapel 15.46 to Crewe 16.01.
Crewe 16.03 platform 5 to Birmingham New Street platform 4c arriving 17.22. Birmingham New Street 17.59 platform 9a, arriving Stansted Airport 20.40
Wednesday 3rd May 2017
London Stansted flight cost £28.49 EasyJet depart 07.00 – Asturias arrive 10.00. Met at the corner of the car park outside the airport by the Goldcar mini van shuttle that took a group of English people including me to their office check in 2km from the airport. I checked in and examined the car to ensure there was no damage, accompanied by the Goldcar agent. Leaving at 11.30 I drove the motorway by-passing Aviles to Gijon then south through Caldones and Fano to Pola de Siro then east along N634 through Infiesto, Arriondas and Cangas then road AS114 to Las Arenas, 157km (100 miles) from airport to Las Arenas for Collada Barrada BIG 401, 1325m
There's a large open car park on the south side of the village, just a short way into the beginning of the road heading for Sotres. I bought a litre of water from a shop near the car park then made off along the road for the first climb at 13.00. It took me 4.1/2 hours to reach the top and back down to the hire car at 17.30 cycling 15km and return (20 miles) from 1325m. Much of the way along the lower section as far as Camarmeña the road is lined both sides by a wall of white rock. At one point, on the left, there is a large hole in one of the rocks. From this point the way is a little steeper to the village of Tielve, a farming area. The upper section of the road follows the Rio Tuje then a sharp turn to the left and a steep ascent to Sotres, the most sizeable place along here where there are also hotels and restaurants, plenty of places to get a drink but didn't see any shops. They're probably there. After taking some photos I continued on along the road for Tresviso until I reached the highest point, the Collada Barrada. From Sostres after a few hundred metres the road opens out into the open mountainside and a clear view either side of the road and to the high mountains of Picos de Europe. The top itself is at the Asturias / Cantabria boundary. Later driving direct to Cangas de Onis 28km (17 miles) arriving at 19.00. I found the hotel just south of the town. For a while there was no one at reception but I asked a bartender just down the road to come and wake them up. After the luxury of a bath and change I wandered down the street to the centre and bought my meal from a Dia supermarket; Asturias cheese, Tuc crackers, satsumas, a bottle of cheap vermouth that lasted me until the last date, bananas for the following days, some salad and tomatoes. Just as well I bought it as there were no restaurants open to buy a meal. I contacted Francois and Ruth. I would meet Francois and Irene tomorrow at Santa Eulalia as he suggested then we would all cycle the 6km to La Vega and the foot of L'Angliru. For tonight I settled down at 23.00.
Driving 117 miles. Cycling 25 miles
Thursday 4th May 2017
No breakfast at the hotel and left at 08.30, arriving in La Vega at 10.45. It was a little confusing finding Santa Eulalia and especially negotiating the centre of Oviedo which I really had no need to do. I should have followed the motorway sign for Leon but looked in vain for it on the Asturias Michelin map. I didn't find the indication because Leon is well south and off the map. Once back out of town and finding Leon signs I reached Soto de Reibera and the small road to Santa Eulalia and asked directions at an open market, showing them my map. I was to return to a small roundabout, take a right, rejoin the Leon road, pass through a tunnel then take the next right for Riosa. Sure enough 6km along here I came to La Vega. I recognised this road from my previous two visits however the road for Leon has changed; it's more like a motorway than the small road I remember. I arranged with Francois and Irene to meet at La Vega and the foot of the climb for L'Angliru. BIG 393 . Oviedo to La Vega 20km (13 miles) 13km and return (16 miles). It was good to see them both again. We started the ride at 11.40 and took 3 hours to reach the wide open space car park at the top. The first 200 metres out of La Vega is a drop to a river bridge then a gentle rise for a couple of kilometres becoming progressively steeper. We stopped in the fog to take a photo of the Angliru indication sign, today indicating green for 'open'. Just as well having come all this way. At approx the 7km from the top of the road I recognised the inner bend that my Euskadi friend I cycled with all those years ago was waiting and recovering from his part ascent. He was here for a breather and at the time I knew why. Here then was the beginning of the really steep section – a challenge for any cyclist. None of us could ride it. I made it as far as the metal cyclist sculpture on the right side of the road on the long section but had to walk until we came to the next hairpin veering to the right much further up. Below this we were above the fog and clouds and we were looking out over what resembled the sea with the nearby mountain tops as rocky islands jutting up from the white mass. It was hard to walk, let alone cycle. Francois shouted up “This is terrible”. It was David Millar, Scottish cyclist who threw his bike over the side of the road here. In 2002 he pulled out of Vuelta a España in protest at difficult racing conditions: he stops half a metre before the finish line on the Alto de L’Angliru and removes his race number “This is organised torture, not a bike race”. Fortunately we had plenty of time to reach the top, time wasn't against us. Just as well because perhaps we are the slowest on record on the BIG website! Fantastic views on the way up and there are many boards along the road telling of the exploits of cycle racing over the years. I can't imagine the agony of the Vuelta a España competitors attempting this killer. It makes the 2km / mile 'killer mile' of Mow Cop in Cheshire a child's play. We took our photos at the top and were soon met by another cyclist coming up. I smiled when he spoke in a Welsh lilt. He comes from Cardiff but works in Oviedo. I can't imagine the Spanish he must speak in a Welsh accent. He took photos of the three of us together, we chatted a while then he descended ahead of us. After all that effort it didn't take us long to return back down to La Vega. I stopped many times to take photos and now the fog had completely disappeared lower down. Cycling time: 4 hours 11.10 – 15.00. Inserted here is Daniel Gobert's account of his climb of L'Angliru (Google English translation):
“Here I am back in Belgium after three weeks of travel in the northwest Spanish and Languedoc. With an unforgettable memory, the incredible Angliru from La Vega, south of Mieres and Oviedo in Asturias. I NEVER HAVE NOTHING SEEN. Yet I climbed into nearly twenty different countries, faced with atrocities like Halltal or the Zoncolan, but that I had never seen. Of course, the total points of endurance or difficulty is high but is not the top: this is normal. It is too short and not high enough, but in intensity of effort the last seven kilometers are unbeatable. And what about the "scary" view offered to the eyes !! Brrr, to give the thrill. Our terrible Mur de Huy (the equivalent of Mont Saint-Clair about) raises 110m in 1km with passages to 23%. In Angliru, the last seven kilometers are all worse and the 11th student (almost in a single straight ... unforgettable) 175m in 1km with 23.5%. Inouï with an impeccable covering, a wide and marked road: it is the infernal paradise of the cyclist, the marine cemetery of the cyclogrimpeur, the therapy room of the masochist with pedals and without motor, a cross without cross where all the inscriptions on the road Are so many prayers. At the 6th kilometre, in Spanish, one of them says: "Here, all the cyclists of the world have suffered". Point. Let me tell you a few lines because August 2 will remain forever engraved in my own legend. "A trucking road connects the Oviedo-Mieres national road and the village of La Vega, in a southerly direction. In the middle of the village, an alley on the right lets you discover a large sign" Alto del'Angliru - Pic'u Gamonal ", With the encrypted notification of all the data necessary for this climb, which is enough to make the client flee, which inevitably attracts the cyclist.The first five kilometers traverse a winding road with frequent percentages in most of the massifs of average The gradients on the ground are numerous and evocative.It is felt the legend, one moods the l, The road that comes from Santa Eulalia, is granted a kilometer of flatness, even of descent. Left is striking, that on the road to come up even more! The slight downhill that precedes the "6km" sign, with parking, signals the beginning of the true Angliru. From there, and it feels right away, there is no more flat, even only twenty meters. We close our eyes and we go. Today it is from 35 ° to 10 am. And the shadow is very rare. Here, our worst memories become derisory: the turn to the left of the wall of Huy becomes an anecdote, the chicanery of Mont Saint-Clair a junk, the last kilometer of the Tower of Madeloc a benefactor rest, the "here begins hell" Of the Guidon du Bouquet ", a false advertisement, now with additional traffic poles showing the percentages, the walls follow one another at an unbridled pace, and an indication in Spanish" here, all the cyclists in the world have suffered. " Part of the cyclists of the world It is hot, the flies attack, horses, hoofs turned towards the road, occupy certain laces.I pass from the 42x26 which had allowed a good ascent until then to 32x24 then 26. I keep 28 I can not resist, my two cans being empty.I stop, I can not resist, my two bottles are empty, Straddles the existing rock E, and filled the two future saviours. First station! To restart in this 15%, I stall my right foot but after a half turn of the wheel the slope prevents the left foot from stalling in turn. It is the fall on the spot, stupid and without appeal. I find myself obliged to go down again to go back 50 meters. Or here, at the rate of 2m50 the turn of pedal, it is 20 muscular sufferings in the left thigh and 20 in the right thigh. The 8th kilometer is regular at 13- 14%. Breathing becomes difficult, the dancer is almost obligatory in places. A very long straight line going from left to right occupies a whole kilometer and the end of it is still recovering. A left turn: manipulation VV allowed me to swallow ten centiliters of water. I'm suffocating. At km9, an upward look nails you to the ground. Unthinkable, unimaginable! Two laces raise up as in an amusement park and a straight line from right to left this time seems to come out of a hat on all sides; I manage to go through the first two laces as well as the turn before the infernal straight line”
Once back in La Vega we went our seperate ways back to the hotels near Las Caldas but I had time to make a return visit to achieve another BIG further south, climbing the Cobertoria BIG 394 1173 metres. I park up at Pola de Lena at 16.15 and immediately hemmed in by another car that parks behind me which gave me no choice and also the impetus to go for this climb. It's just over 10km to the top and I took two hours over it, returning back down in half an hour (15.30 – 18.00). The way up to begin with is through two villages above Pola de Lena then into woods that shaded me from the sun. It's not a steep climb, but it is monotonous. The gradient never gives up. At the top is an open clearing. After a few photos I returned back down then came back up with the car. Return 35km (23 miles ) to Las Caldas at 19.15 Cycling 54 miles. I met up with Francois, Yasmine and Irene later at the restaurant before the Las Caldas hotel. I wasn't too impressed with the meal of rice and overdone chicken portions though. Cycling 48 miles
Friday 5th May 2017
Drive Las Caldas to Cedeira 267km (166 miles) via Ribadao to Cedeira west of Mera. 3 hours. 09.00 – 12.00 Cycle Vixia Herbeira BIG 377 604m 15km to the stone building opposite the line of wind turbines on the ridge of the hill, this marks the top. It was a very strong westerly wind today that made the way difficult in places, especially coming up the other side from Pedra later. From Cedeira town we found our way through the streets and across to a right hand turn for Vixia Herbeira as this road continues on for the huge lighthouse; Punta Candieira which we didn't see but it's an attraction in this area mainly because of its size and position on the cliff top. Francois drove his car to the top of the climb then later decended a few kilometres to join me but he would climb the mountain from Pedra later. Alone, I cycled up through the woods and into an open clearing over cattle grids then hugged the coast for quite a way. There's some good viewing places of the coastline on the way up with cliff and sea inlets. Part way up the road reaches a ridge at a large stone crucifix to the right then descended down for 3km to a road junction. Not having a map with me I had to ring Francois to ask the way – was it to the left for San Andrés or to the right for Carino? I didn't remember either location nor did I realise I was cycling west-east not east-west as I thought. On then to the right for Carino and started to ascend again and a sharp turn away from the coast. Before the next bend to the left I saw Francois coming down. He retraced his way back and now had the wind behind us blowing us to the top. The final 3km are very exposed in open country and now mainly a straight road on to the top marked by numerous wind turbines. I took a look at the stone building to the left overlooking the cliff. This marks the top of the climb. From here we both descended 9km 5.5 miles to Pedra. The higher section is exposed and descends as a long sweep with a right turn leading down a long section to the treeline. From there down to the small town of Pedra. The road ends at a 'T' junction then we turned left along a flat section into the town. Francois found a shop to buy food and while in there it started to rain; a little at first but then a deluge. It only lasted for about 20 minutes and it was so fortunate that we were in shelter at the foot of the mountain. We returned in a little rain but it went off as we ascended back to Vixia Herbeira and the car. From this side it's an easier climb under the shelter of the trees and by now the air was much fresher after the rain. The upper part was easy enough but as we rounded the bend in the exposed area the force of the wind hit us for the final 3km to the road summit. Cycling 15 km from Cederia to the top then 18km there and back from Pedra, total 33km 21 miles. 12.00 to 16.30 both sides then return to Las Caldas for 19.00. After a shower and change we all met in the same restaurant again. Tonight I had a selection of cheeses rather than a warm meal – a much better choice. 16€ + 4€ for a beer. While we were in Galicia today Irene had cycled two BIG's to the west of Oviedo but unfortunately had experienced bad weather for much of it. Cycling 20 miles
I shared with Irene my intention of cycling from Soto de Cangas to Lagos Covadonga tomorrow and she keenly agreed that we cycle it together.
Saturday 6th May 2017
From Soto near Cangas de Onis 19km to Lagos de Covadonga BIG 400 1187m and return (24 miles) 4.5 hrs 11.00 – 16.30. Met with Irene Schneider at 11.00 and we parked our vehicles at Soto de Cangas on the Covadonga road just to the right of the roundabout at the entrance to Covadonga valley. We cycle together 7km to Covadonga village then take the much steeper narrow road from the roundabout here, second exit indicated for Las Lagos. From here it's 12km along a twisty road leading up to the lakes. For the first 4km the way up is tree covered but later we were cycling under the white rocks along a road with many turns. A kilometre after passing Mirador Reina the road drops a little to an upper valley with farmsteads but then rises again to a greater height to reach the highest point overlooking Lake Enol. This is a spectacular view with the lake framed by the mountains and contented brown cows in the upper meadow before the lake. There is a constant steepness to reach here, above 10-12% for some time. I thought it would ease higher up, but it is surprisingly steep most of the time with up to 15%. When we reach the upper sections there is a false summit where the road descends, only to rise again to the last summit before the descent – here is the 'wow' factor mentioned earlier, following this a descent along Lake Enol and then little rise and descent again to the highest lake - Lago de Ercina at 1135 metres. We stop for drinks at the cafe at the end of the road, take in the view and the usual photos of the area that wouldn't be out of place in the Swiss Alps then we turn around and head back down. I took plenty of photos on the return and met up with Irene again at Covodogna village as she descended at her own pace. Only on the return did we notice the huge red edifice of Basilica of Santa María la Real of Covadonga. Irene went for a look around while I returned to the car and back to Las Caldas at 18.00. Drive 75km 46 miles. On return I packed the bike away in the bag ready for the flight tomorrow. Total driving distance 150km 92 miles Cycling 38km 25 miles. We met again the restaurant by the hotel this evening. I had the cheese again. Francois and Yasmine had already eaten this afternoon on their visit to the coast but came along to the restaurant for a drink. Cycling 48 miles
Sunday 7th May 2017
This morning I woke to the reception call at 05.30 and had a good breakfast but without the hot food. I left there at 06.15 and drove left out of the hotel then the right turn at the end of the road on to N634 then through the tunnel. Passing Oviedo to the left and followed motorway A66 then A8 to the car drop off in Carcedo, arriving at 07.30. I checked the car in then was given a lift in the car to the airport at 08.00. I checked the bike in and passed through customs check with the small pull case ready for my flight home. Total distance in the hire car was 562km. 351 miles (my car only) Total Cycling 141 miles
Asturias flight cost £24.49 EasyJet departure 10.35 to Stansted arriving 11.25