Saturday 27th September 2008
We leave home at 11.50 on the train to Manchester Airport at 12.20 then a shuttle bus to British Airways Terminal 3. When we arrived there we found out that the 15.30 flight to London Heathrow was cancelled due to fog around Heathrow. This was hard to understand as it was sunny and bright in Manchester. There was great confusion and some panic but eventually we were matched to the late B.A. 13.30 flight to Heathrow that finally left at 15.05 so we gained on that one – despite initial anxiety as Ruth was concerned that we weren’t on a flight having arranged it all on the internet. In the departure lounge at Manchester we sat on some seats by a window and I wandered to buy a couple of bottles of water for Ruth and we all had a sortie around patiently waiting for our flight call. It was a half hour flight and we no sooner had a sandwich and drink delivered to our seat and we were descending. On the flight we had seats near the front of the plane, flying at 19,000 feet at 486 miles per hour. We were held in the air on the Heathrow approach while the pilot waited for a landing slot, finally landing at 15.50. In Heathrow departure area Ruth and Mark had sandwiches and I went for a meal at Weatherspoons, beef & ale pie and chips with a lager after all I wasn’t driving! We waited until 18.45 before walking down to the boarding gate for the 19.20 British Airways flight to Cape Town, arriving at 07.50 Sunday morning. Mark stayed up all night watching films on the small screen on the facing seatback, using headphones. Ruth watched a bit of ‘Out of Africa’ to put her in the right frame of mind. Later on I reminded her of her new hat that was Meryl Streep fashion so she had a new name for much of the holiday. I read for a while but slept most of the journey.
Sunday 28th September 2008
We had no trouble re-uniting with our luggage, they were very quick. Our taxi driver took Ruth’s wheel case and led the way to his taxi in the multi-story. He transported us to our small hotel in Cape Town passing a large shanty town expanse lining the road to our right between the airport and the city. We were travelling along a busy motorway then he took a left and drove us into Tamboerskloof area of the city and the Parker Cottage in Carstens Street. The taxi fare was 200 Rand (£13). Laurie made us coffee on arrival then Ruth and I had a short walk around the immediate area. Later we went for a walk down to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront but Mark wanted to sleep in, not surprising as he had no sleep last night. He slept most of the day. Ruth and I walked down the main road to the Waterfront. It was a glorious summer’s day – the complete reversal of England. We had lunch at Emily’s café by the Clocktower on the Waterfront. Food we soon found out wasn’t really expensive. Here on the waterfront we were surprised how cheap it was to eat out – 127 rand (£9) for two very large baguettes and two large cool beers. We sat and watched seals swimming in to the quay below where we sat. Later we wandered along the Waterfront to the large Semester ship – a floating university – that was docked at the far end of the harbour. We sat in the sun for a while after looking around the shops then took a taxi back to Carstens.
That evening we wandered down to Kloof Street looking for a restaurant as we found out from brochures in Parker Cottage that there were a few restaurants along that road. We were met by a tall man on the door as we looked at Arnolds Restaurant. It didn’t take much encouraging tempting us in because we were offered a voucher for a free bottle of wine with our meal. I had Sunday beef and salad, Ruth a salad and Mark a burger and the first of his daily Smirnoffs. Later back up the hill and we slept well that night – needed it. Mark was cold in his room. It took us two days to realise the window was open in there. There was no heating in any of the rooms and the whole place was wooden flooring. Ruth and I were warm enough though.
Monday 29th September 2008
It was a rainy day after a really sunny, warm day yesterday. We all take a taxi from Carstens to the V&A Waterfront, 40 rand – only £3 for a taxi – we’ll use this method a lot to get into the centre over the next few days. I was cold and not prepared for bad weather so bought a fleecy sweater with a South Africa motif from ‘Out of Africa’ shop, 330 rand (£21) and wore this most days in Cape Town – and got well used at home later. We have lunch in a very pleasant health store café, Melissa’s on the Waterfront. Ruth has split pea and ham soup to warm up followed by a toasted chicken baguette. I have a traditional fried breakfast and Mark a hot chocolate and chocolate chip cookie. We walk along to Central Station later and get caught in a deluge! Took shelter at a garage forecourt halfway then ask at the station information for trains to Simonstown for tomorrow, also any other destinations and lines out. Later we walk to St Georges Cathedral and take shelter there when the rain started again, the heavens really opened. In there we looked at the stained glass and the hand-stitched mural over the altar while Mark for some reason stood outside in the rain, Ruth called him in so he stood by the door. When the rain went off it wasn’t too far too walk back to Carstens along Queen Victoria Street, past the parliament and planetarium and South Africa Museum to Kloof Street and Beckham Street.
This evening we tried another restaurant further up Kloof Street; Da Vinci’s, where Ruth had Cannelloni, I had Chorizo pasta and French side salad, Mark half ribs. With the drinks this was 227 rand (£13) then back to cold Parker Cottage and planned tomorrow’s trip to Simonstown and Boulders Beach to see the African penguins.
Tuesday 30th September 2008
We take a taxi from Parker Cottage to Central Station (20 rand) then queue for tickets for the train to Simonstown. These were 25 rand each return, total distance there and back about 40 miles. That works out at about 45p for 10 miles. At home our rail prices are ten times that amount. We board the 10.23 metro train crammed with blacks but we felt safe. Seating was along the walls of the carriage with a wide space between where buskers walked down the train, in our case a blind busker playing a keyboard strung around his neck and led on through the carriage by a girl holding a hat out for money. There were no problems on the train except for loud excitable voices. As we left Cape Town suburbs our carriage thinned out a bit. Soon we reached False Bay and the rail line hugged the coast the rest of the way, ending in Simonstown at 11.40. We rang for a taxi to Boulders Beach from outside the station, a wait of about 15 minutes. The taxi man gave us a brief outline of the area and would come back for us later but then we weren’t sure how long we would stop to take in the sights and we also wanted to see Simonstown so we didn’t bother with the return by taxi.
Once at Boulders Beach we started off by walking the top path but Ruth suggested it would be better to pay the 75 rand to go through to the beach itself where we could walk among the penguins. We walked the length of the beach and saw plenty of the cute little creatures and Mark scrambled up the rocks at the far end with the digital camera to take more photos on the other side. Jackass Penguins were darting in and out of the water and running past people; they’re only about 18” tall to 2 foot maximum and are Africa’s only penguin colony. Later we passed the kiosk and some penguins on a slippery rock to the left, watched their antics as they slid down the rock into bushes and on down to the water. We continued along the top path passing many penguins breeding in the bushes and came to a kiosk where we showed our tickets again and passed a souvenir shop to the left where I bought a 6 pack magnet set of Boulders and along to two board walks that also went down to the white sands on the beach. From these view points we could see penguins all around but we thought it a bit insensitive of people jumping up and down on the boards to scare the penguins out into the open from their shade from the sun. We took plenty of photos then continued along a walkway away from Boulders Beach, past some souvenir stalls and up the rise to the main road and walked pat the naval buildings down hill into Simonstown. We had lunch at Harbour View Restaurant on a veranda overlooking the yacht harbour. We had some very big baguettes, one chicken, one bacon and one vegetable ciabatta for Ruth. I tried a Windhoek draught, Mark a coke and a coffee for Ruth, total 196 rand (£13).
We read in an information sheet with the menu there that there was a statue worth seeing in the small market area along the front. We asked where this was and soon found it. This was ‘Just Nuisance’, a dog with a story. The dog was around at the time of the Second World War and he used to hang around with the British Navy when they were in port. He even followed them on the trains into Cape Town and graduated to boarding the same trains on his own to hunt them out to be with them. Eventually he was adopted as the navy mascot in Simonstown naval docks. Some top brass were not happy that the dog could walk everywhere in the docks where the sailors were and ordered the men to eject him. There was only one thing for it, to keep him he would have to be made a naval cadet. On signing him up his name was asked for – “Nuisance, sir, just Nuisance” He then started tagging along with airmen in the same area…Nuisance was seven at the time and lived on to reaching 13.
We took the train back to Cape Town at 16.30 and got off for a look around Fishhoek but we weren’t there long. We walked across the track to the front and sat at a bench looking out for whales. From Fishhoek back to Cape Town on the next train at 17.07. Back to Parker Cottage by taxi then down to Kloof Street later for Da Vinci’s restaurant again. Tonight we had lasagne and pesto pizza bread (me), tuna salad (Ruth) and London beef (Mark), together with drinks this was 193 rand (£13).
Wednesday 1st October 2008
A day out with ‘Day Trippers’ having rung yesterday evening from Parker Cottage. This cost 425 rand each (£86 total) and well worth it as we had a great day out. We were collected at 08.30 by Isaac from ‘Day Trippers’ and thought at first we were being taken in his mini van to meet others then transported on the trip but we were surprised when he told us we were his full contingent for the day. It hardly seemed worth it for just us as it would cost at least £30 in petrol to take us the 100 mile trip around the Cape Winelands.
Isaac explained about the political situation on the way to the vineyards along the motorway. He was hopeful about the future. Our first stop was Anura Vineyards near Paarl at 09.30, near Frog Hill. We were taken around wine cellars to see the way wine was made, then around the kegs where they are stored. We tried six wines and recorded our verdict on the listing supplied. From there to Solms Delta for more wine tasting and lunch that Isaac prepared. We ate outside and the wine was brought to us. Isaac joined us later and we insisted he ate with us even though he said his company do not like the drivers to eat with their guests. I didn’t see why not and besides there was too much food for us to eat. People passing by smiled as we tucked into our salad and wine. The wine went well with the cheese. We said to Isaac that we weren’t wine experts and preferred to see the area around Winelands. He laughed and agreed, as he had already deduced that. On from Solms Vineyard to Van de Caab along a private driveway with guards at the gate. Isaac told us of the times of apartheid when slaves would pick the fruit and get rewarded with a bottle of sour wine hung at the end of the fruit row. This was their payment and eventually made them ill but reliant on the owner as they were addicted to the wine. All this changed only 15 years ago now blacks were employed. We were shown around the small museum here by a guide. She spoke with a lump in her throat as she explained the horrors of apartheid on the vineyard, and she was a slave here too, as well as her parents, now dead. We bought the museum paper for 38 rand that explained what went on here. From here Isaac drove us to Franzschoek for a brief look at the old Huguenot settlement and the memorial in the field in front of the mountains to the east, we took some photos. Later Isaac drove us to Stellenbosch, an Afrikaan town with a university where only Afrikaan is spoken. We had an hour here so I withdrew some money from an ATM and we looked around the shops. At a shop called Indaba in Andringa Street we bought some wooden serving spoons with giraffes engraved at the end of the wood, 50 rand or £3.20 and a penguin postcard. . Following this Isaac drove us to a cheetah sanctuary at Lynedoch close to a country rail station - Spier.
It was only five rand each for entry and I offered to pay for Isaac but he told me as a tour guide he went in free. It was interesting to see the cheetahs so close. We paid for Mark to in with the cheetah cubs – called cub encounter for 130 rand but it was worth it for him. The money goes towards cheetah conservation and also three members of staff were in there with him just in case the cubs got too frisky. We took loads of photos and were very impressed with this – I think Mark more so. We bought a cheetah poster there for 85 rand and lingered around for a while. In the distance was a wild dog enclosure. These are bred along with the cheetahs as the dogs have to know the cheetahs and guard against them in the wild to protect farm holdings in cheetah populated areas. He’ll remember this for a long time. Isaac then drives us back to Cape Town via the airport and shanty town.
I go for a walk later in to Kloof Street when we arrived back at Parker Cottage while Ruth and Mark slept. I got a bit carried away and walk all the way up to Kloofnek on a reconnaissance mission to see where the top of the hill is and the roads for Signal Hill and Table Mountain, and to see over the top to Camps Bay on the other side.
It was a three kilometre walk but rewarding at the top for the view. Later I sat on the veranda at Parker Cottage with a bottle of wine and caught up with the diary to 20.00 – Ruth and Mark still asleep after my walk and wine!
This evening we walked down to Kloof Street to Arnolds and greeted at the door by the same tall slim white guy and another voucher for a free bottle of wine. We were enticed in and had a basil pesto pasta (me), chicken salad (Ruth) and chicken lasagne (Mark), with drinks this was 227 rand or £15. Back to Parker Cottage up the rise and noticed the moon had a low horizontal crescent, like a smile. We don’t see the phases of the moon like that at home. Also the star patterns are totally different. I could make out the Southern Cross but the others were unrecognisable. At Parker Cottage we read in the cold lounge area while Mark watched some TV (in Afrikaan?) then late bed at 23.00 to be ready for tomorrow’s adventure.
Thursday 2nd October 2008
After breakfast at 09.30 Ruth and I walk along Tamboerskloof to Gilmour Hill then up Kloofnek Road to Kloofnek where I went for my reconnaissance mission yesterday evening. When we reached Round Nek up the steep road we took a right along Signal Hill Drive, much quieter along here. We continued walking up along this road past an indication sign of the possible fire danger in the area, to where the path to the Lions Head hill begins on the left. A gravel track begins here - cyclable and certainly walkable but we continued on past the warden hut and on up a bit further to the brow of the hill then down slightly parallel with the city roads down below to the right, started the walk around the spiral to the left on the Lions Rump that led to Signal Hill at 11.30. There isn’t much to see at this point but the view around is very good and Table Mountain and the city below are impressive from this point. There are toilets there and a small (but closed) information hut and car park. We remarked that so much could be done here by an enterprising company to set up a restaurant and viewing area. We asked the black car park attendant where the noon day gun was, he walked us along to the point where we could see it down the hill above the town. We were expecting to see it on the hillside up here. He walked us back down to Lions Rump and pointed it out to us. We waited for the gun to go off at 12.00 and watched the firing then headed off back downhill the way we came except on Signal Hill we cut out the spiral section by going through the short grass and on to the road a quicker way. We walked back down Kloofnek Road as far as the Dinkel German bakery where we tried their coffee, rolls and plum and poppy cake on the way down (89 rand). From there we walked back down to Parker Cottage where Mark was still in bed. Soon after though we were out again, three of us this time and took a taxi (20 rand) from Parker Cottage up to the lower cable car station on Table Mountain. It was 366 rand (£23) for the three of us to go on the cable car to the top. On the way up the cable car turns around 360 degrees so that everybody can see the view on the way up. The last section is through a gap in towering cliffs. We walked around the area of the upper cable car station and Ruth and I walked further as far as the end of the wheelchair area at Klipspringer Gorge but she let me carry on to the highest point at Maclears Beacon, about two miles further. She was anxious about Mark so wanted to turn back. I carried on down into a gorge with ropes to hang on to then up again and over a series of wooden boards over boggy areas and through heather to reach the rocky area where Maclears Beacon is. Ruth waited for me at the lower cable car station then we walked back to Parker Cottage. We called in at an off license in Tamboerskloof and bought six Smirnoffs for Mark at 39 rand, a lot cheaper than restaurants.
While in there the girl behind the counter was saying she was desperate to get out of South Africa and also that her name was Holmes and her mother’s family side is Portuguese and would like to find out if there was any connection. I took her email address and promised to find out. Many weeks later I found on the internet that there as a link with a Holmes family in Portugal and mailed her the link.
Later that day we went along to Da Vinci’s again for our evening meal. Ruth had grilled chicken alfredo, I had Cannelloni and pesto pizza bread and Mark alfredo. With drinks this was 241 rand (£16). Back to Parker Cottage at 21.00 we passed a tramp sleeping rough on the street corner walkway.
Friday 3rd October 2008
I have a bike delivered by ‘Day Trippers’ at 09.00 and after breakfast ride up Kloofnek Road to Round Nek. Ruth and Mark go down to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront to buy a few items and we arranged to meet there at the Clocktower later at 13.30. Ruth bought a wall hanger picture cloth that now has pride of place in our new lounge (135 rand, £9) from Our Heritage shop. She also bought a calendar for Tammi at work, whose mother helped us with some details for our holiday here as she lives in Durban, also a bookmarker for Iris, a taxi magnet for the fridge at home and a T shirt for Sue next-door as a thank you for looking after our house these two weeks (130 rand, £9).
From Round Nek I took a right along Signal Hill Road up to the shoulder of the Lions Head, slightly down then along to Lions Rump and Signal Hill, reaching the top at 10.30, an hour from Parker Cottage. A coloured person (Indian, not black) selling his paintings of Table Mountain from Signal Hill, these were in the region of 1800 rand (£120) and he accepts bartering. There was no way I could carry one on the bike though. I took a few photos from the grassy area in front of the car park of Table Mountain and the view down to the city. On the way back down I took a turn to the right to take a look at the unusual green and white round house with a dome. There was a black man in a jalaba standing in front of it. He waved and beckoned me forward and told me that he lived here but I was welcome to take a look. He told me that an Afrikaaner had just passed him and was arrogant with him and told me English people were more civilised. He’s obviously never been to England! Back down to Round Nek, across the main road leading down to Camps Bay and started the short, steep climb along Tafelberg Road to Table Mountain lower cable-car station. First off I stopped at the tourist office on the left at Round Nek to ask how far I could get along this road with a mountain bike and if there was a track to go as high as possible. I was told it was four kilometres to Kings Blockhouse at the highest point then a further two kilometres down the other side to the Rhodes Monument by the university but it wasn’t possible to ride down there – however it was I later found out. I continued up the road along three hairpins steeply to the cable-car station then just a slight rise to the end of the road. Two kilometres from the end, the road was closed with a barrier across warning of possible landslides. The road past this point must have been disused for some considerable time because there was plenty of grass growing through the tarmac. Through the open metal gates past the turning for cars at the end of the road then a gravel track for about a kilometre up to the Kings Blockhouse. It wasn’t a steep rise but the gravel surface made it difficult but manageable on a mountain bike.
From the top is a good view of the city down below. I went down the track a short way then retraced my route back to the lower cable-car station. On the way back at 12.00 noon I heard the noon day gun explosion across the city on Signal Hill. Down to Round Nek and a long freewheel back down to Tamboerskloof. I stopped at Dinkel German bakery to buy some rolls for our lunch as requested and arrived back at Parker Cottage at 12.50. After a wash and change I ordered a taxi from the taxi company, ‘Excite’ down to the Waterfront dry dock entrance, arriving at 13.15 and met Ruth and Mark at the Clocktower ready for the Robbin Island ferry at 14.00. We ate our German rolls at a Waterfront seat by the Clocktower then queued up for the ferry having bought our tickets a few days before. We were told it wasn’t operating as the American Navy from the cruiser USS Monteroy had arrived in port with the aircraft carrier Theodore Roosevelt anchored up close to Robbin Island. There were plenty of complaints in the ticket office as it was peoples’ opinions that tickets shouldn’t have been sold if it was known that the ferry service would be cancelled due to the U.S. navy presence. Some had travelled a distance to go on the trip across to Robbin Island. We made the best of it and took a harbour trip around Table Bay on a pleasure cruise sailing boat, 350 rand, around Table Bay for 1½ hours. We were served champagne which helped counter the bouncing over the waves. Also on board was a group of Korean businessmen. The boat was operated by three blacks and they were great fun. We ate at Arnold’s restaurant again this evening, 263 rand to be full and satisfied.
Saturday 4th October 2008
This morning we were collected at 08.30 by ‘Day Trippers’ for the Cape Peninsula tour. We set off over Round Nek and down to Camps Bay, a place where the wealthy live at one million rand plus for property (£67,000). We were told that the minimum wage is 1600 rand per month (£108) so there is no way that many people could afford one of these. Properties to rent start at approx 3000 rand per month (£203) and average earnings are 6000 rand (£410).
From Camps Bay to Llandudno, not unlike to its namesake in Wales as this is also on the coast with high hills around. This is also a place for the rich to live. From here along to Haut Bay where we queued up for the glass bottom boat trip to Seal Island. To send us on our way with razzmatazz were the Haut Bay minstrels who we had to doff a few coins to when we came back into the harbour. The ¾ hour trip out to see the seals on the island only cost 114 rand. It was interesting to see them trying to get up on the rocks and relying on the rising surf to push them up the slippery sides.
When we got back we had a quick look at the craft stalls but didn’t buy anything then we boarded the mini-bus again for the drive up Chapman’s Peak where our driver said the slopes of the road climb sees off a lot of cyclists from the annual 109km cycle race around the Cape Peninsula. We took an unscheduled diversion to Constantia wine shop at the request of the Malaysian in our group who wanted to buy as large bottle to take home, its much cheaper here than in Malaysia. We passed over the Cape interior to the other side of the peninsula at Muizenburg where we saw whales from high up over False Bay, and a fantastic view from the height right over the bay, then down to Fishhoek where even to this day no alcohol can be sold in the town because of a Huguenot ruling 150 years previous. We went further south along the coast to Simonstown where we were told the story of ‘Just Nuisance’ but of course we knew about this from last Tuesday. Following this we had a repeat visit to Boulder’s Beach to see the penguins again – only ½ an hour this time so we were glad we came here ourselves for a much longer visit. This time we only went to the kiosk and down the two walkways to the beach but not on to the beach itself. From Boulder’s Beach heading south once more we passed groups of baboons and were told not to feed them as they take full advantage and even raid cars, make off with bags and cameras mistaking objects for food. We continued along from here to Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. I noticed at the toll gate it was 55 rand for an entry by car. We drove in the reserve for a few miles and stopped at the visitors centre for lunch that our driver prepared. We met Isaac there, our driver from last Wednesday; he had also taken in a ‘Day Trippers’ party and we continued with him to Cape Point now as two vehicles.
Our driver prepared a salad with orange juice. From here we took to bikes for the two mile ride slightly up then a sweep downhill to the coast and along to Cape of Good Hope point, a half hour of stunning scenery. Along the way we saw ostriches with their babies on the coastal rocks, more whales and a few roebuck. After a few photos at the Cape Point we loaded our bikes on to the mini-bus trailer. We all walked to the same point as I had had gone there alone with the bike. We then walked up the hill to the old lighthouse and eventually reached the restaurant at the end of the walk, and our mini bus waiting up there. On the way up over the headland we saw some dessies and took loads of photos among more stunning scenery. Mark went off with the Chinese / American (Peter) and jogged up to the higher lighthouse where a rack and pinion railway follows the path to the top. This was totally uncharacteristic of Mark but we’re glad he enjoyed it! They jogged back down just in time as our driver was getting anxious. Our next stop was at an Ostrich farm to feed and pet a few in a field. Their precision in grabbing food out of our hands was impressive! We continued back towards Cape Town via Scarborough Beach, a good viewpoint and last of all across Silvermine Hills and back into the city past the international airport, arriving back at 18.00. We ate at Da Vinci’s again this evening and went out at 19.30. I had a large bruegal, Ruth a large pizza and Mark a chita. With drinks we ate well for 190 rand (£13).
Our day out with ‘Day Trippers’ cost 425 rand each less 55 overpaid for the bike a few days ago. All considered when taking into account our driver paying 55 rand to get into the Cape Reserve and 75 rand each for Boulders Beach penguins and 45 rand for lunch then the actual trip each was only 250 rand or £17.50
Sunday 5th October 2008
Ruth and I go for a walk into the city after breakfast, down to Kloof Street, Beckham Street to the South Africa Museum and walk the length of the Parliament Gardens seeing unusual trees along the walkway. We passed statues of South Africa’s notable figures of the past and came to the cathedral where we were the other day sheltering from the rain. It was so different today in bright sunshine. We found the craft market among the city streets and I bargained for a leather belt for 100 rand. Asking price was 350 rand but I was determined as I only took a 100 rand note in to the market, leaving Ruth in charge of the rest while she finished off her coffee at the outside table. The bargain was clinched for one belt when I offered him the same amount for two!
Ruth was looking round later and was approached by one black Stallman who called out to her, “hello beautiful!” The flatterer didn’t succeed in selling her anything but it did her ego good, and still remembers it months later! We walked on to the Castle of Good Hope beyond Central Station but didn’t go in; we just had a wander around the grounds. There’s a great backdrop from this point of Table Mountain. We walked back from here along Long Street where there are loads of cafes and backpacker hostels and looks a bit like a Wild West town, along to Kloof Street and drew some money from a cash machine, feeling safe as there were two policemen standing nearby. We were back at Parker Cottage at 13.00; we ordered a taxi and were collected from Carstens at 13.30 and asked for the Clocktower. We wandered around the shops and the V&A Waterfront. I bought a second memory card for the digital camera, 300 rand, approx £21 and we ate at Melissa’s food shop again. Around the shops I bought some packs of sweets for taking back to work and a mosquito killer plug in for taking along to Mabula with us as we thought it would be much warmer there and may have trouble with insects, as it was we didn’t. We took a taxi back to Parker Cottage, 40 rand. In the evening we ate out at Arnolds again and had a free bottle of red wine. As we’ve been here a few times and we were recognised I thought I’d be cheeky and ask to try some crocodile meat. Ruth had beefburger and salad, Mark had fillet steak (110) and I had sirloin steak (95).
Monday 6th October 2008
The taxi arrived to take us to the airport.
We bought some sandwiches to eat on the plane and I had a cup of tea – that did me good. On the sandwich wrapper it said “sharpen your bra” – this seems to be the South African expression for “get a load of this!” Our Kalula flight left on time at 13.00 from Cape Town Domestic Airport and a two hour flight to Johannesburg. There were no customs formalities as this was an internal flight but we were a long time waiting for our cases to appear on the carousel. It was a nice touch to be greeted in the arrivals area by a black man with a wide grin dressed in yellow shirt and slacks and had my name as “Cevan Speed” on the card he was holding up as passengers spewed out of the baggage reclaim area – it must have been my English accent on the phone to get it so wrong! He was very noticeable with black skin and pearly white teeth when he met us with his broad smile! He took Ruth’s case and wheeled it along to the multi story car park with all of us in tow. The taxi pick up to Mabula had been pre-arranged by phone yesterday evening before we went out for a meal. We were told this would be 790 rand each, total 2370 rand (£160). I still owe him 20 rand of that and will pay him when he collects us next week. The drive from the airport to Mabula took 2½ hours and the driver stopped halfway at a Total garage undergoing reconstruction north of Pretoria. There were workmen everywhere. He bought us drinks as this was the company policy on long taxi rides, we had water and coke. The driver paid road tolls twice on the motorway, 29 rand and 6 rand. Together with the drinks at 30 rand, totalling 65 rand the actual taxi fare was reduced to 2305 rand. It was a quiet ride and unexciting, a busy motorway as we passed through Johannesburg and Pretoria until we reached Bela Bela where the countryside is more rural and our first sight of true African bush. The roads were wide and fenced off on either side from wild animals. As we approached Mabula it became more dramatic with the setting sun in front of us. We arrived at Mabula Game Lodge at 18.00, just as the sun was going down. It was a fantastic sunset and soon got dark. We found our hut along the path, hut number 111. It has two rooms and a shower / toilet area. Ruth and I had showers and we all changed for our meal in an outside area called Bula at 07.30. This was lit up by candles in brown paper bags and our meal that evening – buffet style- was delicious. On arriving at Bula we were given a welcome drink and had our faces painted then guided to our table where we sat with three South African people; a man and his wife and daughter – and Solly, our tour guide and ranger for the week. We watched local tribal dancing around the fire in the centre of the Bula.
They were dressed in tribal costumes. We ate eland and warthog kebabs and went to bed at 22.00 because we would be woken up by Solly in the morning at 04.45 for our first game drive. He apologised that we had missed our game drive this evening even though he waited some time for us but we were too late arriving in Mabula.
Tuesday 7th October 2008
We were woken by our guide, Solly Lebudi at 04.45. Ruth answered the phone, “Good morning, madam, how are you?” We all got dressed and were quietly amazed at Mark – he must be keen! We went along to Reception at 05.15 for tea, coffee and biscuits then boarded Solly’s landrover at 05.30. it has four sets of seats and higher towards the back so everybody could see the animals when we out on the drive. It was just beginning to become light when Solly drove out of the enclosure into the game park. We took photos of the sunrise and saw zebra, giraffes, wildebeest, eland, klipspringer, impala and springbok before we entered the lion enclosure through a tunnel under the road outside where Solly opened the electric gate by remote. Once on the other side he brought out his rifle and placed it across the dashboard for rapid use if needed. We weren’t inside for long before Solly noticed lion prints, dung and a bent perimeter fence – then saw the reason. A male lion was walking away from us, Solly braked and reversed slightly to a group of lionesses tucking into a wildebeest carcase, the others waiting their turn. The lion then walked toward us, came close the landrover then turned off the track and walked past a lioness, giving it the cold shoulder to lie down. Solly said he would have had his fill before. Just as well the lioness was tucking into her cold shoulder. From there Solly drove back through the tunnel and we saw zebra, gemsbok, baboons, kudu, and later ant lion where we stopped by some rocks for coffee. Solly laid out a collapsible table with a cloth and produced metal flaks and biscuit containers. He explained that the ant lion are insects that make series of holes in the ground to attract smaller insects and lies in wait for its victim which it pulls into the hole. Solly found an ant lion by prodding the holes until he came to one that caved in and the ant lion appeared to grab its ‘prey’ Later we saw some ostriches with young and Solly told us that the mass of an ostrich egg is equivalent to the mass of 24 hen eggs. We were back at the game lodge at 08.00 for breakfast, shared with the South African family and Solly. I soon found out that I mustn’t have chilli in my omelette again, I needed a drink quickly! Solly told us he had worked at Mabula as a tour guide ranger for 23 years.
Ruth and I sunbathed by the pool until lunchtime, Mark went back to sleep in his room and later watched TV.
At 16.00 we met up again at the reception for our second game drive at 16.15, returning at 19.00. Solly took us out to see hornbill (like Susa in Lion King), Egyptian geese in water with young; 13 of them, hippos; male, female and young, small crocodile on the bank of a lake, kudu cow and calves, eland – the second biggest deer in Africa, glasbok (meaning ‘white face’ in Afrikaan), zebra, black back jackal that stalk ostriches, waterbuck, gnu or blue wildebeest, black horned buffalo and white rhinos who are white not by colour – as they are black-grey- but wide jaw for grazing as opposed to the black rhino which has a thinner jaw.
Later we washed and changed and made our way to the Bula where the dancing was happening again the same as last night and we overfed as usual. If we stat here long enough we’ll get fat. Maybe that’s the idea, the locals might not be dancing around the fire for our pleasure but they have their eyes on us!
Wednesday 8th October 2008
Out for the game ride again this morning meeting again at reception at 05.15. Solly enjoyed making a gift announcement to Ruth at the land-rover and gave her the sunglasses back as she had left them in his land-rover yesterday evening. This morning Solly took us around tracks where we saw giraffe; a huge black male, crocodiles and a turkey –type bird by the lake that was being pestered by other birds taunting them. We went with the South African family again and later shared a meal with them. We left at 05.30 and had 3 hours out in an attempt to find elephants. Solly drove up two hills and around two lakes but there was no trace of them except for their large round prints that Solly knew was recent.
Later we sunbathed and read by the pool where children were playing but they weren’t too noisy.
This afternoon’s drive was leaving late because Solly was waiting for new arrivals to join us after all they had paid for this game drive session. These were two Americans, a man and his wife from north of New York and two business people; one a South African from Pretoria and the other a business colleague from Spain and these two were only here this evening and for tomorrow morning’s game drive. We left at 16.45 and arrived back at 19.30 on another attempt at sighting elephants. We thought we saw one in the dark but Solly insisted it was a hippo moving in the bushes by a lake, I was almost certain I could make out a trunk though. Later we saw rhinos in the dark by Solly’s searchlight.
We had a stop at a lakeside just before sunset as Solly had found out by intercom with other rangers that the elephants were on their way to the lake but then get a second communication to say that they were at another lake further away so he made a quick drive in the dark to get there but it was too late and that’s where we saw what Solly told us was only a hippo in the lakeside bushes.
We had dinner at the Bula again, complete with the same African dancers and the same dancing – but the food was different. While we were there the buffets were varied each night. We went to bed at 22.00 to be ready for the early morning game drive.
Thursday 9th October 2008
We had to get away promptly at 05.15 this morning because the two business men were leaving at midday. Solly was determined to track and find the elephants but he didn’t have any success. We were amazed how the largest game animal could be so elusive. Solly found rhino tracks and we saw plenty of warthogs, gnu, ibex, glasbok (oryx), zebra and the rhinos but the elephants were teasing us. Arriving at top speed at the rhinos another ranger who got there first said to Solly “You go and find your own animals”, which tickled Solly. Following this he drove into the lion enclosure and took a great deal of time trying to find the lions and was eventually rewarded with a kingly Aslan casually padding along the track towards us. He had received an intercom message from another ranger who got there first. The lion veered off our track and padded along sedately through the undergrowth on a path at a tangent. We could follow it some way then Solly drove around to where he was heading to head him off. We had another sight of him heading toward us, satisfied we returned to the game lodge.
We sunbathed after a big breakfast while Mark slept, and had lunch at 13.45.
Later we were out on a game ride extra early at 16.00 until 19.30. Solly was so determined by now to find the elephants and vowed we wouldn’t return until we had seen them. We had four new people in our land-rover, two South African ladies and a couple from Manhattan Island, New York. We had a good start with sightings of rhino and buffaloes and then a long time was spent searching for those elusive elephants. Solly was very close as he found fresh prints. He got a call from another ranger and apologised that he would have to drive fast to meet up with him as at least one elephant was found. We met up with a huge bull elephant heading toward us. Mark and Ruth took plenty of photos with our two cameras. Solly explained that he now knew in which direction the other elephants would be as the bull is heading towards them so we would find them tomorrow. The bull was busy eating its way through small trees as it plodded on a straight course for the others. We had a lot to talk about with Solly that evening at dinner. As usual it was bed at 22.00 to be up early in the morning.
Friday 10th October 2008
It was another eventful day today. This morning Solly scouts for the elephants and finds tracks leading away from the hills but continues on to the lion enclosure. He discovers a fresh carcass so knew the lions were close. Solly receives a message from another field guide nearby that he has a puncture so Solly took a diversion to drop off his spare wheel – which would leave us stranded if we had a puncture. I was amazed that they would change a wheel in the lion enclosure! Driving the tracks he eventually finds a pride of lions; two brothers (if they weren’t they would fight for dominance of the pride) and three females but they were on the other side of a wooded depression. He could see them clearly through binoculars and we were amazed that he could make them out while he was driving. At first we could only see the head of one lioness but the others were close by on the other side of the gap. He had to devise a way to get round to them as there was no recognised track to get to them and would involve some off-road driving. Solly, being only a field guide ranger would need permission from the park rangers who patrolled Mabula and adjoining game parks in their white van. He contacted them and they soon came and tested the way in their van, bumping and jostling over grassy mounds and negotiating a way through the trees to reach the lions. Coming back the same way they gave the all clear for Solly to take the land-rover over the grass to the edge of the depression where the lions were resting. Another field guide ranger draws alongside and all squeeze into Solly’s land-rover. Solly tells him to bring his cocked rifle as we were going to go very close to the lions. He told us a few days ago that there is no real danger as long as we don’t step on to the ground as our scent is disguised by the stronger smell of petrol from the engine. No changing car tyres at this point though! From here he drives us back to the lodge.
Ruth and Mark slept later while I sunbathed after breakfast on a recliner pad borrowed from the side of the pool and placed it outside our hut door as it was quieter here, except for baboons crossing the ground across the field in front of us. Later we had a light lunch at 14.00 then went for a short walk down a bricked walk near the reptile house leading to a covered area in the game lodge grounds. The covered area is in front of a reed pool and fenced off as there are notices around warning of crocodiles and hippos. Solly said they come to this point when the water is higher.
Ruth and I go along to the gift shop and bought a lion poster for Mark, a small round wicker basket that now has pride of place on our lounge wall, a necklace, a DVD documentary of Kalahari lions and a black leather belt.
On the game drive this afternoon Solly finally finds the elephant herd that were gorging on trees near the main gate. It was a great sight and worth the wait. All the remaining elephants were there. A visitor in a car wanted to get through to the timeshare area on the edge of the game reserve and impatiently headed towards the elephants in the hope of passing them but the elephants were on the track. Solly warned the white driver to back up as the elephants quickened their pace and headed toward the car. He backed up to let the elephants past but was cursing Solly. A racist remark came out and Solly was annoyed and would report him. He was instructing the man for his own safety. Solly told us that an elephant could easily lift the car and possibly kill if provoked.
On the way back to the game lodge we saw giraffes then rhinos in the dark with the use of the searchlight that Solly gave Mark to operate.
Back at our hut we packed our cases and bags so that we could enjoy the sun for the last time after the morning game drive.
We had dinner later with the American couple and Solly and went to sleep at 22.00.
Tomorrow’s final game drive would begin extra early at 04.30 to see the sunrise from the top of a nearby hill. We would also have breakfast there.
Saturday 11th October 2008
We went for our final safari, leaving at 05.00 after Solly’s wake up call at 04.30. “Good morning, madam, how are you?” “Fine, thank you, see you later”. Mark lay in this morning. It was the only game drive he skipped and we were amazed he had lasted out so long. Solly took just Ruth and I and the American couple out to the right from the game lodge to an area not explored before and he ploughed up the hill track in low gear to reach the top of Christmas Hill. We were in time to watch the sunrise. Solly performed the ceremonial laying of the cloth on the unfolded table that he kept at the back of his seat. It was cold and we were glad of the blankets that Solly provided in the land-rover. We took some photos of the sunrise and some taken of us by the American couple. Solly insisted they take one of him and send it to him when they get back to America. Just after sunrise we went along the track over the ridge of the hill where Solly noticed some leopard tracks. This was the final of the ‘Big Five’ that we hadn’t seen so far. The tracks led into the undergrowth as we passed some rocky outcrops. Solly told us that the rocks were a favourite area for leopards to rest as the rocks were warm in the sun. Later he found rhinos, crocodiles and a group of hippos wallowing in a lake, some with only their eyes showing. He showed us that both the hippos and crocodiles would do this as with both creatures their eyes are above the body and could swim almost undetected. Our final game drive lasted two hours, shorter this time. Later we had breakfast with the American couple and Solly – we gave him a big tip, he certainly deserved it. We said goodbye to Solly then went to wake Mark. We were ready at 10.00 and left our cases and bags behind reception as we had to vacate our accommodation that morning.
We rested at the covered decking area by the pool at the end of the brick path until lunch time. I caught up with my book ‘Walking Back’ about a couple who lived in Crewe who went out to work in Kenya. We had our lunch at 13.30 and said goodbye to the American couple. The taxi from Johannesburg collected us at 15.40. The driver was a bit late and I was becoming anxious and asked to ring the taxi company from the reception. The reason he was late though was that he couldn’t find the right entrance after Bela Bela. He bundled our cases into the boot and made a short stop in Bela Bela so I could draw the balance of money I needed to pay the taxi, 1500 rand. He parked in front of the machine for our security. Ruth said later his eyes were everywhere and he was ready to intervene if problems happened in the street. We made a comfort stop at a service station for complimentary drinks, toilet etc and arrived at Tambo airport at 17.40 and I paid the 2390 rand fare (£160). Ruth bought a bottle of Aramula liquor for Iris and I spent my last few rands on a candle that even dad pride of place with our Christmas decorations! The airport has a massive shopping area, even bigger than Heathrow – or so it seemed. Our flight to Heathrow left on time at 20.15
Sunday 12th October 2008
Our flight arrived on time at 06.00 and we were all tired of the journey. On the way to Cape Town at the beginning of the holiday I slept but back from Johannesburg to Heathrow I was awake and watched the TV and read a lot so now I was ready for some rest. We weren’t going to get any at Heathrow though! The first customs on arrival was painless enough but Ruth had a problem with her Aramula liquor as she was told she couldn’t take it on the Manchester shuttle – no liquids allowed. The bottle was sealed in a plastic bag clearly labelled with Johannesburg Airport and had the receipt to prove it but the customs insisted it went in the hold. The only way was to take up Mark’s offer of putting his small bag in the hold with the bottle in it however the bag couldn’t be locked. It was a risk that we had to take. At customs our two remaining hand luggage rucksacks were opened as liquid was detected in them – it was a stray bottle of water! We had to take off shoes, belts and empty all pockets. We felt as if we were being criminalised! Eventually we were through – and got dressed again! This was our worst customs crossing since our experience crossing Checkpoint Charlie, only this time there was no East German border guard to salute us.
The flight was a little late leaving and we were no sooner up in the air and served drink and sandwiches that we were then descending into Manchester.
Ruth had prearranged before our holiday for Victoria taxis to meet us at the airport for the flight arrival. The taxi man had checked the flight time arrival and was in the airport waiting our call after collecting our cases, fortunately no customs at Manchester as we had gone through all that in Heathrow. He drove us back along the M56 then A556 to Bucklow Hill and through Knutsford and home at 08.00. Home sweet home!