Friday 27th April 2007 Holmes Chapel to Mizen Head
05.30 Holmes Chapel, Holyhead at 07.15
Ferry at 08.55 on time departing, in Dun Laoghaire at 10.30
Logan had trouble with passport control. Eventually we set off at 11.15 going left from the terminal on back roads through town then on to the southerly route through Killiney, Bray then N11 to Gorey, Ferns and Waterford. Bought diesel 45 € on N25 Cork Road in Waterford. We later stopped at Dungarven for lunch at Tavern on the main square 3 hours into the journey.
I had omelette and chips 6€. We parked in the busy main square. Traffic was a free for all, no lights or even road markings. On through Youghall to Cork. We skirted north of the town at 16.00, very busy with traffic but this was the worse we would see all week until we reach Dublin on the way home. We were on the N71 and the road became less busy out of Cork suburbs and more interesting as we headed further west. Innishannon was an interesting small town passed through. There was a wedding party in full swing on the street, brightly multi-coloured shop fronts with period costume dummies with horse and carts and penny farthings. At Clonaketty we passed over an old river bridge then took a left for Skibbereen. At Ballydehob we took another left for Goleen passing Mt Gabriel on the right topped by an observatory. We arrived in Goleen at 18.30 and had trouble locating our first nights accommodation at a guest house called Heron’s Cove. We went on a bit further west of the village and realised we were in open country so doubled back. On entering the village from this side we noticed the large blue Heron’s Cove sign on the side of the pub wall, real Irish logic. Not many people would be entering the village from the end of the Mizen peninsula. We booked in after a difference of opinion with the landlady. At first we were given a room with a double and a single bed. David piped up “I’m not sleeping with him – or with him. Find another room” The landlady gave us a bigger room with three beds, just as well as that’s what David had originally requested by email. From the room balcony heron’s could be seen flying around the small cove. Later we went for Guinness at the nearby pub up the road, latched on to by an ever hopeful Ulsterman. Later I went for a shower and sort bags out, write diary and back to the pub at 21.30.
Saturday 28th April 2007 Mizen Head to Killarney
Photos at Mizen (6107) at the steps before the lighthouse, reached from the gate that was unlocked and nobody there at 09.00. We were on our way before it was open to visitors at 10.00. We set off in overcast conditions passing rocky scrubland back to Goleen and stayed on the road until a turning to the left at the main road to Bantry, not much traffic. We had a stop at Julie’s café. I had tuna and cheese bake and coffee. Up to Turners Rock after rounding the wide arc of the bay to Glengarrif then a steady climb up to the tunnel at Turners Rock (6108-6110) and down the other side to Kenmare. We crossed from Cork to Kerry having the first county behind us. We had some food at the park in Kenmare then took the wrong road for Killarney. We were following a route east and should be going north so turned back. Fortunately it only took us 10 to get back with the wind behind us. On up to Molls Gap then took a left just over the top to Gap of Dunloe (6111). Great ride along here. We had arranged to meet Logan along here and he was, just as we came in to Beaufort. He told us to head for the main road, take a right and look out for an orange walled pub called The Golden Nugget. Our guest house was next to that. We arrived at 20.30. We sat at the pub and had Chinese meals delivered, downed with a few Guinness.
Trip distance today 148.19km, height at Killarney 74m, 20°C, ride time 8½ hours,
average speed 17.40kph, maximum speed 120kph, overall distance 148km (93 miles),
trip altitude 1668m, maximum altitude 331m, average climb 3%, maximum climb 13%,
total altitude 1668m, top elevation 339m.
Sunday 29th April 2007 Killarney to Limerick
It was 7.00 a.m. and Logan drove me out to Ballyvourney on the Cork Road out of Killarney before breakfast. I climbed the leafy lane into the clearing but it wasn’t exactly clear with the thick morning mist at Mullaganish. I was up there in 50 minutes, reached the highest point of the road and back down in 10 minutes to where Logan was waiting with the car at the foot of the climb at the orange walled pub in Ballyvourney. The only clue to the direction of the climb was a walkers blue sign indicating the Mullaganish Way. Logan then drove us back to the other side of Killarney at the junction of the R563 Milltown road with the Killorglin road N72 and breakfast at 9.30 at our digs at Beniska House, Fossa, 4 miles west of Killarney. Breakfast was really good. David left the landlady there his ‘justgiving’ site address as she showed me – so I left her mine too. May as well be hopeful. After all this is all for charity, I’m not exactly doing it for pleasure (heh, heh!). We were away at 10.30 along the A563 on an upward slope heading for Milltown, a long straight road. There was a horseshow going on at Milltown and we were sure that Logan would stop by there and take a look but found out later that he didn’t. From Milltown a short way along to Castlemaine, through the village then we took a left for Knockwaddra Pass. To avoid confrontation with David at the top it would have been sensible to have arranged a meeting point in Tralee. David rode up as much as possible but I was in my element having not been up here from this direction, only the other way. We had a difference of opinion at the top! Logan met us up there and we took our sandwiches that he’d made. Down to Tralee by a roundabout and left into the town and took the N69 out towards Listowel on a not too busy main road. We had a short stop at the Halfway House to eat Logan’s cheese and ham sandwiches, being stared at by motorists passing by as we sat at the bench by the side of the pub. Near here I took a photo of a large thatched pub across the road called “A Day in the Bog”
It doesn’t say much for their food. Listowel wasn’t too busy, an interesting town with a grey spire church facing the road on a slight rise, the church contained by colourful pastel buildings of the town square. Out the other side and we were still on the N69 heading for Tarbert and the Shannon estuary, another long straight road with views across both sides as it slopes away on either side for a good distance. In Tarbert I made a slight diversion to see the old courthouse and county jail by the Shannon ferry crossing. There’s a model of an Irish soldier outside the museum. Into Limerick county (6113) and along the Shannon River south bank as far as Glin where we stopped to eat the remainder of Logan’s sandwiches. Here there’s a small castle on the right of the road. It’s a long road along the Shannon to Foynes Point, passing shipyards. At Askeaton the village is by-passed and the rest of the way uninteresting and became busy the nearer I got to Limerick – alone as David had ploughed on ahead.
We met Logan at a roundabout at Clarina in Limerick suburbs. He had a hotel fixed at Clifton House on Ennis Road 061451166. We finished our ride at 19.30 and bundled our bikes into the van before the city centre. At the first bridge in Limerick from the west we crossed the river on to Ennis Road. We had pizza and canned Guinness in our room at 22.00.
Trip distance 133.36km, 83 miles. Ride time 7’52”, average speed 16.20kph, maximum speed 104kph (down Knockwaddra), odo total 148km, maximum altitude 468m, average climb 4%, maximum climb 23% (going up Knockwaddra, south side), total altitude 1253 metres.
Monday 30th April 2007 Limerick to Athlone
We left Limerick at 10.00 following the R463 along the Shannon River to Killaloe at 12.00. (6115) Over the bridge to Ballina (6114) and a scenic route after the initial up through the woods, opening out to a grand vista of the Lough Derg, inland width of the Shannon. Stopped here for a while for a photo (6116) and break then on to Portroe perched on the hill and steep descent past colourful houses and across tree lined lowland route into Nenagh through Newtown, a small village. I stopped at the crossroads in the centre of the town and met by John, as he introduced himself. He asked me where I was from when he found out I wasn’t Irish – soon deduced that of course – and what was my trip. I told him I was cycling with a friend from Mizen to Malin. “Oh that’s easy enough”, he said, “I did it in 3 days when I was younger”. Well I don’t want to do it head down and bottom up and want to see something of the country. I asked him if there was anywhere in the town I can get some decent sandwiches and was directed just down the road. He said he’d join me shortly and was to ask for Marie and to tell her that John had sent me. Well I found Marie but she had no idea who John was. “Well he knows you. Perhaps he’s attracted to you. He said he’d be in here shortly” That produced a few giggles. I enjoyed fresh turkey and salad sandwiches and a coffee for 5.30€ and paid up. “Your friend never turned up” she said. “I didn’t expect him too!” I emerged from the café into rain but as it turned out it was only a light shower for the next ½ hour and we experienced no more rain the rest of the week – and none until this point. I found the N7 road around the back of the town heading out for Roscrea. Though it’s a main road it wasn’t too busy. I left Nenagh at 13.15 and arrived in Roscrea at 15.00, re-living memories here as last time I had a long wait in the Croft Hotel on Castle Street waiting for a bus to Dublin as I’d split my chain attempting to ride up Slieve Bloom. This time I was out along the same road past Roscrea station, Ianrod Eireann and the R421 gentle ups and downs to Kinnitty then a turn to the right between the shop on the left and pub on the right then on a couple of hundred yards that took me to a right fork and up through the woods to the top of Slieve Bloom – eventually. It was hard going and could see why Passacol list this as one of their best in Ireland. It was great weather though and very pleasant slowly up through the pines to a road junction where I turned left for about 200 yards more up to the county boundaries of Laois and Offaly (6117-8) that marks the top of the Slieve Bloom road, BIG number 63 achieved at last. I turned tail at the top and continued on past the road junction and took the right uphill a short distance – but going too fast coming down to notice it – then heading for Kilcormac on the narrow road with a grass rut through the centre. There was some confusion at the foot of the mountain as the signs had been turned round and I couldn’t figure out the way forward. A farmer appeared in an old tractor taking the entire road so I had to move into the hedge. I asked him the way to Kilcormac. “Hey?” he said, “I only speak English”. “I AM English!” “Sorry you sound foreign”. “Well that’s because I’m English” He directed me and I continued on to Kilcormac then on to Forbane with the setting sun in front. The lanes along here were interesting, passing through wooded areas and over two level crossings and impossible railway tracks level with the road that couldn’t keep an engine on tracks. At Forbane I was on the main road N62 heading for Athlone. Logan met me just past the junction on the N6 outside the city. I was amazed to see him as David had arrived two hours previously. He had found us an apartment with 2 bedrooms and bathrooms at 100€ all in on the river next to the Subway sandwich shop. We had fish and chips downed with Guinness and back to the digs where Logan found gold in the sofa, 6€ in change.
David took the road direct from Nenagh through Borrisokane and Birr to Athlone.
10.00 to 20.30, 162.80km or 102 miles, actual ride time 8’ 50”, average speed 18.30kph,
maximum speed 78.50kph (descending Slieve Bloom), navigator 444.38, odo 1 310km, odo 2 133m, odo total 444km (277 miles), top elevation 534 metres, maximum climb 13%, total altitude 2981 metres, trip altitude 1313 metres, maximum altitude 534 metres, average climb 3%
Tuesday 1st May 2007 Athlone to Sligo
We set off from Athlone at 10.00 after breakfast down the road in the Pakastini owner’s other property, breakfast wasn’t up to much but at least it was filling. I took photos from the bridge of the castle (6120) and church (6119) then we took the road out past Hodson’s Bay on Lough Ree to a roundabout before Roscommon with its main square and grey block bank and other local stone buildings, emerged on the other side at a castle then on to an uphill road heading for Tulsk on an open road of grey stone walls. We had coffee and some of Logan’s sandwiches at a history and visitor’s centre café, a small area by a stream. Along to Boyle, slight divergence towards Elphin to see a monument to Irish freedom fighters then an easy road to Boyle that’s on a slight ridge with views both sides over the stone walls. A steep drop down to the town, past the old ruined abbey and we soon reach Lough Key. I took the old road to the left to pass over the edge of Curlew Mountain, a couple of photos of the county boundary markers of Roscommon and Sligo (6121-2) then steeply down through pines and a great view of the Bricklieve Mountains ahead on the descent, one on the right looks like an extinct volcano, then a sharp turn to the right to rejoin the new road and David waiting further along at Lough Arrow. We stop up the road at Castlebaldwin for the remainder of Logan’s sandwiches then continued along the busy, narrow road to Collooney. I had to get off at one point to let a lorry past, on to the busy N4 there and met by Logan 2km south of Sligo where we were staying tonight at Park House on Pearse Road on the outskirts. We arrived at 17.00. It had been a very warm day and we enjoyed the remainder of the day supping canned Guinness in front of the guest house at their bench. Later a shower, phoned Ruth, sorted bags for tomorrow, write up the diary and at 20.00 out to the town.
Ride time 5’53”, Height at Sligo 133m, average speed 17.8kph, maximum speed 44.50kph, trip distance 105.43km or 66 miles, ODO 1 320km, ODO 2 238km, ODO total 549 km or 344 miles, trip altitude 749 metres, maximum altitude 256 metres, average climb 2%, maximum climb 9%, total altitude 2003 metres, top elevation 468 metres.
Wednesday 2nd May 2007 Sligo to Letterkenny
We rode out together and in company as far as Donegal where Logan met us at 14.30; we were ½ an hour or more early. There are interesting hill formations inland from the coast road between Sligo and Bundoran on the Leitrim boundary before Donegal, after that though was a not so busy main road through cuts before a long descent before reaching Donegal. We stopped at Grange seaside resort to fill up our water containers at a garage. The mountain called Benbulbin covers a lengthy area to the north east of Sligo and has a long flat top that looks unnatural but because of the size of it, it must be, the northern edge ends abruptly, plummeting to the ground near Grange. Beyond here is another flat top mountain called Truskmore that David christened ‘the chocolate slab’ as its wall is smooth and again, a level ridge. (6123) We rode on with great scenery seaward as far as Bundoran, deciding to go through rather than take the new wide by-pass round the town. Bundoran is another sea resort on the thin neck of land between Northern Ireland and the coast. It’s like a Mediterranean town with all its white houses. (6124) We continued along the N15 new road keeping to the left of the yellow line through cuts and soon reached Donegal where Logan was driving toward us a few miles south of the town. We stopped for a while at the Aldi supermarket grassy area by a roundabout where the Killybegs road branches off. We ate our sandwiches here then parted company. David rode on for the direct road to Letterkenny 2 ½ hours away through Barnesmore Gap and Logan drove me along the Donegal peninsula westward to Carrick, 43km. It’s an interesting coast road with a fishing industry at Killybegs, some confusion here with the road sign as the way west was a sharp left at the top of a rise behind the town, it wasn’t obvious. An hour later at 15.30 I was on my way up the first new BIG of our tour, the Glengesh Pass (number 55). The pass starts at a signpost by a stream to Ard an Rath and follows the stream to the only village, Glencolumbkille (6125) and its fishing container warehouses. Slow progress up the stony road and a mountain to the right then a turn to the left at the far end of the valley and up and over, followed by a turn to the right and the final section to the Glengesh Pass. It’s a barren summit with warnings of sharp descent and bends into the valley (6126-8). On either side of the valley are steep slopes and isolated village communities before reaching Ardara. I took a right, over the Neck of the Ballagh and down to Bruckless, through Inver and back to Donegal. In Bruckless I stopped at 18.30 for an energy drink at a garage, in Donegal at 19.00 and took a last stop at Drumhinen then up Barnesmore Gap (6129). The top of the rise is only reached after passing Lough Mourne, but great scenery on the way up. Down to Ballybofey and after passing through the town took a left and up to Drumkeen. I stopped to put on helmet and high vis. Jacket as it was getting dusk. At 21.15 and six miles from Letterkenny Logan and David came towards me and flashed me down, bike bundled into the van. We went for pizzas at Domino’s and ate pizzas and Aldi lager at the digs. We shouldn’t have eaten in the lounge as the landlady didn’t take it kindly but we soon cleared up – she profusely sprayed aerosol! Bed at midnight.
10.00 – 22.00, trip distance 153.27km or 96 miles, height at Letterkenny 49 metres, 44°C, Ride time 8’23”, average speed 18.20kph, maximum speed 51.50kph, navigator 703.06, ODO1 164km, ODO 2 238km, ODO total 703km or 439 miles, trip altitude 1385 metres, maximum altitude 316 metres, average climb 2%, maximum climb 13%, total altitude 4367 metres, top elevation 534 metres.
Thursday 3rd May 2007 Letterkenny to Malin Head
We left the digs at 09.30 after a really good breakfast. Logan drove us to the other side of the town and deposited us on the N13 Londonderry road just north of the Lifford road N14. We set off along a slight rise all the way to the Buncrana turn off where David continued alone on Inishowen through Muff, Carrowkeel and Carnodonagh to Malin village where he and Logan waited at the pub on the village green – for 2½ hours – but he missed the best scenery. I arrived there at 16.30 taking a different route to the west side of Inishowen through Fahan, Buncrana, Linsfort, Mamore and Clonmany to Carndonagh and Malin.
First though I left David and went in the opposite direction past the round church at the bottom of the hill that is representative of the stone circle named Grianan of Aileach at the top. The climb was my second new BIG of the tour, number 54. It’s steep from the start (6130), up to a turning on the right and ignored the sign for the stone circle at this point and continued over to take the next right turn at some white cottages on the right. From here it’s a narrower lane that goes down for a short distance then a gradual up through high hedges to a junction where I took the left, past a farm to another junction and took a right, gradual up again with great views looking across to Inishowen and Fahad peninsulas. Through the gorse to the top of a rise and right again at the signpost to the stone circle (6131), very steeply up for a few hundred yards, veering round to the right as the road winds its way up the hill and to a small car park with the stone circle a short walk away. Over some erosion protecting boarding through the only entrance to the three-tiered inner circle, steps up along the edges (6133). The description board at the car park (6132) indicates that five counties can be seen from up here and it really was a clear day to see far (6134-5). I stayed about ½ an hour then back down to the junction, took a right then left to the point where I saw the first sign for the stone circle and back down to the round church – the descent only took about 10 minutes – over the main road and headed for Buncrana. Looking back the stone circle is prominent for many miles heading for Buncrana. I joined the road coming in from Londonderry after passing over a very flat area on to the peninsula. Passing Inch Island and Fahan coastal resort through Buncrana and had a look round the town then took a left on a small road indicated for Dunree Fort, steeply up through woods but left at Linsfort, slight confusion with direction but took the right road and into farmland high open country along a lengthy straight road always up in stages with views across to the estuary on the left and low hanging clouds over Fahad to a crossroads before the Gap of Mamore. Looking at the gradient from a distance it was amazing that a road could be so steep, it’s the steepest road I’ve seen in the British Isles and measured 24% on my computer. Mow Cop may be steeper and Holme Moss near Sheffield but not for this distance up. I took some photos, Bulbin Mountain to the right (6136-9), before climbing and managed to get up in low gear but it was tough. I was at the Gap of Mamore, BIG number 53. (6140) At the top I rested my bike on the stones for photos (6141-3) and police (garda) car stopped alongside. They asked me where I was from, being foreign, who was I with, where were they. I was beginning to feel guilty but had nothing to declare. I thanked them for their concern and told them I loved their country (just in case they thought I might be bombing it). Steeply down the other side, boulder strewn hillside to three roads at the foot of the pass on the north side. There was slight confusion here but I took the correct road to the right for Clonmany I knew as I passed Tullagh Point. I bought a strawberry milk drink at the shop opposite the church then right for 2km to Ballyliffin and a quick downhill to Carndonagh on a smooth surface road then along the river estuary, a last stop to change camera film, and over the old bridge into Malin village where David and Logan were patiently waiting. It’s a long way to Tipperary! David wondered if I needed a drink but they had waited long enough. All bags bundled into the car we rode past Crockalough hill to the right into sea mist. This was a disappointing as we wouldn’t get a view at Malin Head. Past Ballygorman we were met by our mascot, a small dog decided to tag along with us the last couple of miles to the headland.
We took the circular route anti-clockwise past the metrological station to pass along the waterfront but couldn’t see anything. Logan was waiting at the final turn off to the right up the slight rise to Malin Head. We started the final assault to the disused buildings on the headland followed by our mascot. It was then we found out that he only chases red cars and Logan warned me not to take my white Cancer Research T-shirt off to reveal – bright red cycle vest! He went berserk when we started blowing into the bottles that Logan brought out of the car as celebration drinks but nuzzled into our photographs. Up to the headland, the end of the road and back down to the ‘Welcome to Malin Head’ board, the only indication that this was Malin Head. We arrived at 18.00 and left at 18.45, bundled the bikes into the car and back through Malin village and along the R240 to Carrowkeel, through Londonderry (I slept through it!) to Limavady at 19.30. Logan had booked us pub accommodation but we were disappointed that there was live music on here tonight and might be kept awake, however it wasn’t late finishing. I drew 20€ from an ATM and we walked the town later in search of a take-away. We found a Chinese take-away but amused as we were served by an Irish girl. We had several Guinness at the bar later. The music had long finished and we sat at the bar talking with the bartender after closing supping too many Guinness but we slept well that night, at about 01.30am.
Trip distance 94.71 km or 59 miles in 6 hours 14 minutes, average speed 15.20 kph, navigator 797.77, ODO 1 464 km, ODO 2 333 km, ODO total 797 km (498 miles), trip altitude 1310 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 24%, maximum altitude 280 metres, top elevation 468 metes, total altitude 3314 metres
Friday 4th May 2007 Limavady to Holmes Chapel
Breakfast at 08.30, pub stodge but at least it was filling. I don’t like Irish pancakes! Logan and David dropped me off at Park, 24 km to the south at 09.30 and we arranged to meet up at Tobermore at 12.00. They wanted to see Giants Causeway and I wanted to climb another BIG, this was number 51 Sperrin Mountain and the first one of only two in Northern Ireland. It was a very misty morning and was impossible to see more than a hundred yards in any direction. I asked at a shop near where they dropped me off and was directed back down the road to Barnes Road. With the shop on the right and river bridge taking the road towards Dungiven for about 200 yards where there is a junction of three roads, I was told to take the middle road, not signposted except for the name on the road side, Barnes Road that would lead through Dreen and past Sawel mountain to the west and down to Sperrin road junction and the Strabane to Draperstown road. It was up all the way on a more or less straight road except for a sharp bend to the left near the beginning. The mist gave way to sunshine when I passed by Sawel Mountain and the weather became clear and warm from that point. Sperrin is open moorland with no hedges, a bit like the Peak District back home. I took photos at the top, especially on the descent to the north where it was clear. At Sperrin village on the Strabane – Draperstown road I was 6½ km from Park, indicated by the road sign and coming off Sperrin Road, 10km from Plumbridge and Draperstown. I was on Glenelly Road at a crossroads, straight on led to Barnes Gap scenic route, 7km. indicated as Oughtnamwella. From here I headed east for Draperstown with plenty of uphill yet to do but on a wider road. Eventually the Strabane / Londonderry county boundary was reached then a long sweep downhill to Draperstown off to the left and straight on through the town to Tobermore arriving 12.00 as arranged. I waited on a bench at a busy crossroads for Logan and David, they arrived at 12.30. I loaded the bike into the car and we drove off at 12.45 through Desertmartin, Cookstown, Dungannon, Armagh, Newry and Dundalk to the M1Dublin motorway – toll road and M50 around Dublin. There was congestion on the ring road and some of it was caused by a lady whose car had overheated and blocked a lane. When we arrived at that point Logan jumped out and pushed her car out of the way and offered to tow it off the motorway. It was a few miles to the next turn off. Logan steered her car being towed by David. We had plenty of time to spare and finally arrived at the Dun Laoghaire ferry terminal at 17.20. It was further than anticipated from M50 junction 7 where we left the motorway. Logan bought diesel just before the ferry terminal. We had coffee at the terminal then boarded, the ferry left on time at 18.00. I bought fish and chips on board €7.40 and bought some Celtic earrings for Ruth from the duty free. The ferry arrived back in Holyhead on time. Logan and David made a side trip to Bangor to get some beer from Morrison’s supermarket and were impressed by the scenery in female form. We drove home along the A55 then Sandiway and Lach Dennis and back home at 22.30. Ruth came out to meet us, we were all glad we were home!
09.30 – 12.00, distance 34km or 21 miles, 1 hour 50 minutes, 15.70 kph,
maximum speed 47 kph, navigator 826.80, ODO 1 493 km, ODO 2 333 km,
ODO total 826 km, trip altitude 407 metres, maximum altitude 333 metres,
average climb 4%, maximum climb 18%, total trip altitude 4774 metres (15663 feet)
Ireland End to End, Mizen to Malin.
April 27th to May 5th 2007