Wednesday 17th June 2015 Olbia
Olbia airport to Olbia. Collected the car but had to pay €10 a day extra for Ruth to share the driving, total €100 then a further €40 to drive one way only, depositing the car at Cagliari Airport. The car hired was a Peugeot 3008 diesel that we called Evie as her number plate began with EV ! It was a black high suspension car and just big enough for the bike minus front wheel and our suitcase. We drove into Olbia and found the large parking place by the port that our seating companion on our flight told us about. Just across the road was our hotel, confirmed by a local as we parked. This is the Grand Hotel President, the largest hotel in Olbia and in prime position overlooking the port. We were amazed that within half an hour of leaving the airport we were parked so close to our hotel right by the ferry terminal. We changed and went out for a meal, again on the recommendation of our flight travelling companion we eventually found the Antica Trattoria on a side road to the right off the main shopping road, Umberto, in the town. It was really good and we were pleased with his recommendation. We had pizzas that were exceptionally good with half a carafe of wine each, red and white for Ruth, followed by tiramisu. This all came to €39 or £27.95. We thought it good value for what we had. From there back to the hotel and sat on the balcony admiring the view over the port to the mountains to the south, to bed at 10.30pm. For Euro conversion at home we exchanged £200 for 250€, that’s £4 for every 5€.
Thursday 18th June 2015 Olbia to Castelsardo
We woke at 08.00 to an exceptional breakfast in a high class dining room – smashing coffee., we ate well. All told €90, £64. To leave Olbia the receptionist directed us along Umberto where we were last night however there was a music festival on and the road was closed so we took the next right turn down a narrow back street then another right back to the far end of Umberto then straight on and out of the town. Further on we took a right at Telti for Calanglams. These are mountain roads so couldn’t really get any speed up heading for Tempio then turned off on the road for Oschiri at Monte Chi Deu (now a road) and parked at a white Madonna statue at Curadureddu at 11.00am at the foot of my first climb. I assembled the bike from the bike bag, it’s not seen the light of day yet in Sardinia. It took me ½ an hour to re-assemble meanwhile Ruth observed good Italian Catholics crossing themselves before the white Madonna at the foot of the climb then she went for a walk in the woods while I started my climb of Balestrieri on Monte Limbara, BIG 820. My first BIG took me from 11.50 to 14.15 there and back, reaching the top of the road at the radio masts at 13.15. I was ½ an hour there taking photos, taking in the view and talking to an Austrian couple from Innsbruck who offered to take my photo – my camera of course. It’s a military base at the top with a high metal fence topped with generous curves of barbed wire and tall metal gates at the steep section at the end of the public road. It goes on a little further into the military area but I wasn’t going to risk being shot at. The final section to the top is very steep. It’s a good surface road the whole way up, many hairpins. At 10km from the top the road narrows at a picnic area. At 4km from the top there is a black Madonna statue on the right called Madonna Neive. Back down to Ruth who was waiting patiently, a great downhill glide in 40 minutes then bundled the bike back into the car removing the bike front wheel. We drove back to Tempio, this time passing through the town then down from the hills along straight valley roads and scenery to Perfugas but took the wrong road and ended up at a dead end road along the coast at Vallederia. The road was closed along the coast heading south to Castelsardo but we relaxed for a while at the beach but turned the car round first in case we were blocked in. Later we drove back to the main road at Padaleda then continued west and took the right turn for Lu Bagnu to the west of Castelsardo. We found our second hotel, Hotel Domus, a bit more difficult than yesterday. At first we were directed down the road past the hotel by a local shopkeeper who should have known better. We thought it better to park the car and look for it as Lu Bagnu is only a small place. We eventually found it at 15.00 so had enough time to have a couple of hours on the beach. We unloaded the rucksack and got changed for the beach and later had showers and changed and out to a restaurant we had spotted when we walked off the beach earlier. The Vie Blu restaurant was good, we had two big pizzas, water and beer then stayed to watch the sunset from our table. Total 21€, £16. From there back to the hotel and on the way bought some boxed wine at 1.20€ each from the small supermarket then sat on our veranda looking out across the ocean, Ruth with memories of Shirley Valentine look-alike.
Friday 19th June 2015 Castelsardo
The breakfast was very good but not a scratch on the Grand Hotel President in Olbia. Ruth was disappointed there was no fruit. We set off walking along the coast for the two mile walk to Castelsardo but the footpath was closed on the headland due to a landslip. An old couple on their way back through the small park area were a bit annoyed that they couldn’t get over there. We walked back for the car and drove over the headland and left the car at a lay-by on the other side of the headland just before entering Castelsardo. It was just as well that we went back for the car as my sandal was rubbing on my ankle and changed to my new Aldi trekking socks under the sandals. We walked ½ a mile to the centre of the town. We could see the car from the town on the headland. We followed the street up to the town square then up steep steps directly up to the castle. Good views from the top and it was free, really unusual for such a prime spot. We could see all the countryside around Castelsardo. Later back down and to the cathedral and its separate tower or Campinale. In the past this served as a lighthouse. In another church nearby we saw an unusual and effective metal sculpture of Christ on the cross with the roman soldiers banging in the nails and behind this a much larger scaffold to the cross. Back through the labyrinth of narrow streets under the castle passing several places where ladies were weaving in their doorways. This art is famous in the town. Lower down near the harbour Ruth bought a Sardinian flag for our collection and a magnet. We trudged back up the headland on the safe side of the roadside crash barrier and back to the car then drove back over the headland, passing the hotel and along to Porte Torres. We left the car at a free space alongside the coast and spotted something odd. Two carabinieri were escorting a man off the beach who had been sunbathing by some rocks. We didn’t know why but the police were then talking to onlookers. We hung about a short while to make sure the car was OK where it was parked then walked along the coast to the large cruise ship we saw ahead. People were pouring off the boat, we walked on a bit further but were disappointed with the place. We walked to the non-descript centre then headed back to the car. We sat on the beach for a short time then drove on to Marina Sardo halfway back to Lu Bagnu where we had cool drinks in the shade. Ruth had a large beer, 2.50€ and I had a Fanta orange 2.00€ then back to the hotel. We sat on the beach there for an hour soaking up the sun then showered and changed and out to the Trattoria Excalibur across the road from our hotel, Hotel Domus. Ruth had spaghetti carbonara and I had pasta gnocchi wishing I’d had spaghetti carbonara (!) so had ham and cheese warm sandwich, together with water that came to 22€ (£17). We met a couple from Rutland that flew over from East Midlands airport for their 40th wedding anniversary and here’s us just on a normal 10 day holiday. We watched the sun go down from our balcony and Ruth marvelled at the moon with Mars and Jupiter noticing they had changed position from yesterday. She tried to text Helen but had no signal on her mobile so used mine.
Saturday 20th June 2015 Castelsardo to Orosei
We leave Lu Bagnu at 09.00, paid our bill Casa Per Ferie Castelsardo 50€, £32.29 and drive via Tergu, Nulvi and Chiarmonti where there’s an interesting castle on a hill, a pleasant small country town with cobbled streets. It was a long uphill to reach this then an equally long downhill to valley scenery. This could easily be another BIG – but there’s enough on the island. From here on to Ozieri and steep up through the busy town. We were confused by the road system here but I thought if we continued going up we should reach the edge of the town from where we could find the road for my second cycle climb to Passo Punta Masiennera, BIG 821. From here it was downhill to Nughedu di San Nicolo. Ruth was happy to look around the village and visited the church, walking to the top for the view and visited the shop and read. She remarked how friendly people were and acknowledged her even if she couldn’t speak Italian. I started off from the village at 11.00, a right turn and round the back of the village as the road soon climbs above it. It took me 1.½ hours to reach the top. I returned to the village 20 minutes early at 13.40. What is indicated as the top in the BIG website is not the top. At the road junction I took the acute left turn heading back for Pattada, the top is 2km along that road from the junction, reaching there at 12.45. on the way up from the village the road reaches Monte Pirastro at 847 metres then descends 3km to a point 1km from Madonna di Fatima then climbs again towards Punta Masiengera topped by a mast but no road up there. It was an easy climb on middle gear to the top. From the Pattada road I reached the point where I could see all around so here was the top. Returning to the village and to Ruth we drove on, Ruth driving for the first time. We reached Budduso then Bitti where it started raining. We took a road for Onani and Lula but the road was closed a few kilometres from Bitti so we turned back and found a better road south of Lula that took us to la Traversa. This is a good road and mainly along a ridge so we had views along the way. This road passes over the main north-south road by bridge so we had a good run to la Traversa where we took a left on a main road indicated for Dorgali and on to Orosei, passing through Irgoli. We reached our accommodation at 17.00 and booked in. Ruth remarked that the approach reminded her of Mabula in South Africa but we soon found out there were no wild animals here. We wanted to make the most of the sun so went swimming at the spacious pool in the centre of the grounds. Later we showered and changed and drove 2km into Orosei for lasagne at a quiet piazza. We had bought some lagers from a supermarket we found between the hotel complex and the town so settled down on the patio in front of our chalet and listened to the crickets as we relaxed.
Sunday 21st June Orosei
Ruth was happy to relax at the hotel complex for the day while I had a full day cycling to conquer two BIG’s. It was a beautiful warm day as she relaxed at the pool and wandered the grounds of the ‘Ponderosa’. I drove to Nuoro along mountain roads then south to Mamolada then unloaded the bike to cycle to Monte Spada Sporting Club that is no more, BIG 822. It’s a pleasant ride along a good surface green road to the roundabout at Monte Medalu then continued on to Fonni. It’s still a pleasant country road and Fonni is an interesting place perched on the hillside. The streets consist of terraced buildings near the centre and I was a bit confused with the different levels of roads, at least three that run across the hillside. Fonni is a sizeable place but retains its rural feel. From Fonni I saw the directions for Monte Spada on the brown board and followed the road to the end of the village then took a right turn direction Desulo then a 6km gradual climb to reach the left turn for Monte Spada at an agricultural complex. From here it was only 4km to the top of Monte Spada. It’s a narrow road and passes another agricultural complex that’s on the right then a leafy lane to Monte Spada Sporting Complex that no longer exists, it’s just a dilapidated ruin well past its sell-by date. Here the road ends and continues as a stony track almost level. I pressed on a little further on the track to where it veered to the right and up slightly through some old metal gates. Past there the track begins to go down as it traverses the side of the mountain. Here was the top, nothing to look at so it’s the climb itself and not the height ending that’s the attraction. I took the photos and did an about turn, returning to Fonni. From here I took the scenic road across to Passo di Caravai rather than return to Mamoiada as the road from there to Arcu Correboi, BIG 823 is a busy main road, no fun for the cyclist. There is a parallel minor road but didn’t want to share the traffic noise from the main road that runs alongside. From Fonni it was down to begin with then a long sweep to the left and gradual up for much of the way. After 2km there is a slight rise then down again after the road to the lake on the left. At San Cristoforo there is a chapel then no other buildings as the road passes through a thicker wooded area to the top of the pass marked by a small white Madonna statue perched on the top of the road cutting to the right. Passo di Caravai in the woods is followed by a slight dip for about a kilometre then up again to reach the highest point. Below to the left is the main road , far down below in the valley where it passes through a tunnel to emerge the other side of Arcu Correboi. If I had taken the other road it would have meant a sharp 3km rise from the valley after a level ride along most of the way. The way I came was more interesting. At the top of the pass I took the usual photos then turned tail and back down again, a long sweep down to Fonni and Mamoiada. I had some trouble in the village finding the car so must remember in future to take note of a road name near the parking place should I need to ask a local. Reunited with the car I drove back to Orosei through glorious scenery via Orgosolo, Oliena to Dorgali and back to the ponderosa and Ruth at 17.20. I told Ruth I’d be back at 17.30 so there was a slight bonus! I still had time for a swim and sunbathe at the pool before we had our tea on the patio that we‘d bought from the nearby supermarket; bread, cheese, ham beer and wine. Such is the joy of holidays! A whole lifetime is not long enough to get to know the island properly. Whether we’re sports buffs or ardent trekkers and native lovers, keen on the sea or archaeology, lovers of gourmet food or passionately interested in sacred art: - rest assured the sights not to be missed within the range of a day trip there are just too many things for you to see them all. Even the night is full of wonder here, the starry vault of the heavens is so much larger, mysterious and brilliant. It’s difficult to tear yourself away from Sardinia
Monday 22nd June 2015 Orosei
No bread for breakfast! – and the coffee machine was kaput. Nevertheless it was still a good breakfast, coffee came eventually. I set off at 09.45 for my next climb, only one today but it was big one. I drove to Cala Gonone, approx one hour and parked up by a small café above the coast road as it’s impossible to park there. Cheeky enough to use the loo before I started then bundled the bike out of the car, assembled the front wheel and was away by 11.00. It took me until 14.15 to reach the road summit of Genna Silana, BIG 824 and an hour to return to Cala Gonone at 15.15 then ¾ of an hour to return to Orosei and Ruth at 16.00 and I had estimated to Ruth that it would be 14.00 so returned to her with tail between my legs. She was OK about it, she knew I had to chase these BIG’s. We still had time after my wash and change to go sunbathing. Back to the climb of the BIG, it was a difficult and challenging climb in the heat to cycle the twists of the road up to the tunnel from Cala Gonone then to the left after emerging from the tunnel and up gradually along the wooded road to reach Punta Santa Marina national park café where I bought a beer and rested a while then continued along a broad sweep to the right passing a huge standing stone like the Old Man of Mow to reach the Cantoniera Bidicolaiex canton check point on the right. Eventually I reached the Cantoniera building at the top with the cafe on the left just below the road summit but here was the brown plate that marked the top even though it was 500 metres further on by a mobile home park place overnight stop. At this point I could see the avalanche shelters on the other side of the pass and satisfied returned back down from there. I took the usual photos but scanning the brown height marker I couldn’t see a BIG sticker that somebody may have planted. I returned back down the same way, the car was glad to see me and we drove on together passing the Sardinia Stone Works to Orosei and on to the ponderosa where Ruth was at the pool engrossed in a book ‘Call the Midwife’. Later we went into Orisei for a couple of hours on the beach at Marina Orisei 16.30 – 18.30 and sunbathed. We had callippo lollies after leaving the beach then back to the pond0erosa, showered and changed and came back again later after seeing a trattoria that we liked the look of on the road to Marina Orisia. The trattoria is called Mauro so how could we forget it! We went back later and had the best pizza in Sardinia so far then wandered into the small town later and bought delicious ice creams and sat in the small piazza in the centre by the church,. Ruth had liquorice and lemon ice cream and I had a single chocolate cone. Later it was back to the ‘village’ to pack our suitcase and slept well (despite the continual coughing from a neighbouring chalet but she nodded off eventually!)
Tuesday 23rd June 2015 Orosei to Arbatax
We set off at 09.30 and a bit sorry to be leaving this wonderful relaxing hotel complex, our ponderosa. We paid our bill Santa Maria Resort, Orosei equivalent of £147.70. Maybe we’ll be back again one year. After breakfast we drove to Dorgali past the stone works and through Dorgali taking the road over the top avoiding the town and to the tunnel. I was glad I came this way yesterday so that I knew the way. Through the tunnel and down to Cala Gonone we parked at the same parking space I found yesterday as there’s no free parking along the beach road. We walked the short distance down to the beach and walked along the footpath to the end to the south where there’s a large beach and sat for a while admiring the views with the mountains to the south as a backdrop, then went back again to the car. From there we drove the same way I cycled yesterday up and over Genna Silana. I wanted a photo at the top with me posing with the bike but Ruth wouldn’t hear of it, said I should have taken it yesterday. I suppose it would have been a time waster as I would have to change into cycling gear and assemble the bike. We took some good photos on our way south from Genna Silana and before reaching Baunei, a bottle net for traffic not helped by the local bus stopping to let people off. Ruth was driving this section; I kept quiet when we approached the crash barriers with inches to spare. Our next stop on the descent of the other side was at Santa Maria Navaresse. We parked up near the water’s edge and collected a local map from a tourist information cabin from a smiling wench and meandered through the small town passing the small squat turret and to the harbour then returned and had callippo lollies at an outside café by the beach then returned to the car, then drove on across flat country to Lotzoral and rejoined the main road. Soon we spotted signs for Arbatax but were confused by the road indicators. We chose the industrial road leading to Arbatax port which is where we wanted but all we got was industry. We had to ask the way a couple of times and on the second time of asking and following the directions we were so close to it. The last time we asked the woman emerging from a restaurant who was a bit disgusted as it was only round the corner to the right but how were we expected to know? Perhaps we should have had sat-nav at the dashboard but my maps have not let me down yet! Finally arrived at the hotel at 15.00. We changed after depositing our suitcase and went down to the swimming pool at the front of the hotel; we swam and sunbathed and read for about 3 hours then went for tea. We found the Pizzeria Baih halfway to the seafront walking through a residential area. We had pasta and pizza with water and coffee that set us back 28€ (20). Back to the hotel and sleep.
Wednesday 24th June 2015 Arbatax to Cagliari
We had a wonderful breakfast and I had my stock of fruit tea bags for the remainder of the year! It was a good view from the top floor where the restaurant is situated. It was really hot already even though it was only 09.00a.m. We had our fill and needed it as we had a long drive ahead. We had planned to stop at Villaputza for a break ¾ of the way to Cagliari but couldn’t find the beach through the town so turned back. We needed a diesel fill for the first time and called at an Esso station but no fuel available. The notice said ‘black out’. Other drivers saw it and passed on so we must do the same. We were told by an angel that the nearest available fuel was at San Veto, a short distance away. We found it right away after only a few minutes from Villaputza and we were only 20 minutes before the siesta –and and got the tank filled up for us – now that’s guidance. We were relieved and happy as we made our way further south, heading for Cagliari along the coast road. This was quite a distance and we were getting a bit travel weary and glad that we had finally arrived – or so we thought! We were on the edge of the city after passing through a series of tunnels and parked near an ancient burial mound where others were walking. We checked the map. The hotel direction map wasn’t very clear and we were under the misapprehension that it was alongside a lake reached by a causeway but really it was by the port some kilometres further on. We couldn’t find the hotel and asked people in several places. Three men on separate occasions gave us wrong directions, sending us inland at Quarto but it was a few kilometres further on. When we stopped to ask a lady she told us to drive towards the port then finally a young man gave us really good clear directions to head for and made it obvious. Even so when we were only metres away we couldn’t find anywhere to park – isn’t that just the way with driving in cities? It took us nearly two hours to find the hotel after much driving back and to across Cagliari but we finally arrived two hours later. We parked the car on a slope by the castle area and asked at our hotel where we were told to leave it at the railway station car park for 100€ a day. Perhaps this better under surveillance cameras because of my bike in the back in full view. We booked in at a hole in the wall but really it was very pleasant inside where we were stopping for two nights. We went out for tea later in the old town quarter and had pastas at an outside restaurant called the Duck – well the equivalent in Italian. Ruth had ravioli with cheese and I had pasta with chilli and basil wishing I had the ravioli! We washed it down with two large beers then when we finished stuck out for 3.00€ change from 30€ as we’d already been charged twice for the ravioli even though I wished for it. We waited and finally received it. A German couple sitting next to us were amazed about the cover charge so we told them to be careful. Their little boy wanted chips and red sauce – he got crisps! Crisps don’t go too well with red sauce but he ate them. Later we walked along the front by the harbour as it was fast approaching darkness then back to the hotel at 21.30.
Thursday 25th June 2015 Cagliari
The day of the final BIG. Ruth was happy to stay in Cagliari and discover the city, wandering and sightseeing while I revelled in masochistic activity in the heat climbing my last mountain, Punta Serpeddi BIG 825. We had breakfast from the café around the corner that belongs to the hotel then after changing I went to the car and took out the bike to cycle the city streets north east to Quartucciu then Selargius to reach the outskirts of the city. I set off at 09.15 and reached Sinnai at 11.00. Some of the points along the road that we had driven yesterday when trying to find the hotel were seen and directions that we should have gone became obvious. From Cagliarihead to Sinnai, turn right after the petrol station towards the village St Isidore, arrive at roundabout, turn left and go straight to Serpeddi then turn right in the St Helena area. The first 4km are paved then gravel, the road becomes gradually more bumpy, fraught and winding up to become in a few flights, almost stony. At 15km through a beautiful oak forest arrive at crossroads; on the left continue up to Serpeddi, on the right to Burcei. Along the road leading to the top at 100 metres there is a dirt road to the left to Dolianova. From Burcei crossing the village exit from the only road connecting the town with the rest of the world with curves galore to the main road then 30km back to Cagliari with plenty more curves to start with. At Sinnai I was confused with direction as I couldn’t find a right turn by a petrol station that would lead me to the mountain. I asked an elderly gentleman with his wife who was very kind and drove in front of me to guide me through to the right road. He couldn’t speak English but made it plain that the way to the mountain was a gravel surface at the next turn to the left. Sure enough there was the turn. I was not to take the road that eventually becomes a track signposted Tratzalis but instead take a left on the gravel track at the brown indication board for Tratzalis. About 500 metres down the track is another brown board indicating Serpeddi and a blue board indicating Burcei. I knew then I was on the correct route, 5km after leaving Sinnai on the open country road. Eventually after 4km this track becomes serious as it begins to climb towards the shining antennas glistening in the sun. The elderly gentleman had told me to head for them, not to take any other track. Only met three cars on this route to the top and was grateful for that as the way is steep and narrow. It was fortunate that cars passing this way had compressed the gravel making it easier to cycle with a road bike. It was also fortunate that it was very dry as coming up here in any other condition on my type of bike would have made it impossible. It was only the very steep sections where I had to walk because my rear wheel couldn’t grip. After one steep section the track traverses an upper valley to another steep rise. I eventually reached a 10% incline sign and a hard concrete road surface and after that reached the junction of the road to Burcei which I came back to later. From here it was a further 4km to the top on hard ridges of black stone then finally a tarmac section after the track swings round to the right for one final steep section on tarmac to the antennas, reaching there at 14.00. I wasn’t pleased with the squelchy goat dung that covered the road at the top and there was a distinctive whiff in the air even if the creatures weren’t there. I took the usual photos then turned the bike round and continued on at the road for Bercei. After the junction it’s a steep descent on track followed by a rise up on asphalt from the upper valley and on into Bercei mountain village where the way forward was a good road all the way back to the main road at Arcu’e Tidu. There are groups of town type houses up there which seem misplaced at this altitude. From Bercei the road is wider and I enjoyed a great sweeping descent along curves leading to the main road. I followed a group of cyclists from Arcu to SanGaetano on the outskirts of Cagliari, proud with myself keeping up with them. I had to take a left turn from here to Flumini as cyclists are not allowed on this section of road going on to Selargius. I took a turn off this one and came to the coast at Foxi and stopped for a beer at a beach café. From here I kept to the coast as much as possible and re-entered Cagliari and back to the car at 17.00. After bundling the bike back into the car I walked back to the hotel and showered. Ruth had left a note to say she had gone out for a walk at 17.15. I’d only just missed her! Later we went for a meal at a trattoria in the old town where we both had spaghetti carbonara and water. Before the end of the day we went back to the car and disassembled my bike and bagged it for the flight tomorrow, then back to the hotel.
Friday 26th June 2015 Cagliari – home
We went for breakfast around the corner from the hotel at 08.30 then had a short walk around the old town and the harbour. We drove off for the airport at 10.00 and had to pay 20€ for the car parking for the two days. On the way to the airport we filled up with diesel for the last time. We soon found out that this was the final petrol station before the airport, only needed 15€ top up so all told we put in 95€ of diesel for the whole tour. We arrived at the airport at 10.45 and deposited the car after some confusion where to leave it. We had a problem finding the car hire return area when we reached the airport. Ruth went searching while I stayed with the car at the lane divide for arrival and departures. Coming back she reported that we were to go down the arrivals lane and turn off into a covered area where all the agencies are. The Maggiore car receiving staff said we would be charged for the cleaning as the exterior was so dirty however this wasn’t in the contract agreement and the agent at the desk agreed. We were asked where the rear shelf was that fits between the rear seats and window but we were adamant there wasn’t one in the car. The desk agent contacted Olbia desk where we collected the car. It would cost us an extra 125€ if it wasn’t there. Ruth said we stand our ground and not leave the desk until he receives his reply. We were relieved to learn that Olbia had found it so we were free to go; we owed Maggiore Car Hire nothing. Distance travelled from Olbia Airport at 23667km to Cagliari Airport finish at 24603km is 936km or 585 miles. We then went to check in the bike and suitcase then passed through the customs. All our activity at the car desk took time – we only had an hour before the flight departure. Past the customs we bought two salad rolls and sat for a short time then went to the departure gate. Our flight was due out at 14.25 – it did but the plane had to return to Cagliari because the computer on board system was reading a defective door. Back in Cagliari the plane was thoroughly checked out by engineers but found nothing. It was down to a spurious computer glitch. However the problem wasn’t over because the pilot couldn’t obtain permission from Luton to fly the plane without signed paperwork that only Luton could do. This was impossible and the pilot informed us that his allotted flying time may run out before we reach Stansted if he couldn’t take off soon. He made a professional decision to fly the plane without Luton clearance and all agreed that it was just red tape. We all clapped the pilot when we were safe in the air. The flight took off at 17.30 and the pilot made up time, we arrived home at 18.45 British time. Our luggage came quickly and we made the 19.45 train to Tottenham Hale but anxious that we only had 5 minutes to catch the tube train – we actually boarded an earlier train! While struggling with the bag and running the platform with it I damaged the cycle flight bag wheels and struggled as best as I could. We could pay the tube fare at the other end in Euston. I struggled with the bag up the escalators and really needed Ruth to carry the rest. We arrived at Euston at 20.30, ample time. Ruth bought us some sandwiches from Boots on the station then we boarded the 21.07 train and arrived in Crewe at 22.57, ten minutes to spare for the last train to Holmes Chapel. Today was eventful in many ways and we had some close shaves both in time and money. That night we collapsed at home.