Thursday 28th April 2005 Holmes Chapel to Huy
Crewe 16.49, Euston 18.35. Along Southampton Row, Aldwych, Holburn, Strand, Waterloo Bridge and back, Strand, Trafalgar Square, The Mall, Buckingham Palace Road, and Victoria Station. 19.45 from Victoria to Dover Priory 21.30, changing at Faversham. Boarded the 22.30 P&O ferry from Dover Eastern Docks to Calais.
Rain started on arriving in London and didn’t ease off until reaching the Belgian border at Tournai the following morning. No point in hanging around Dover in the rain so thoroughly wet made my way to the ferry alongside the cars. The foot passengers lounge area was closed so continued on to the French customs (still in Dover!). At one point had to go through a customs shed but sensors on door out wouldn’t work for the bike so was stuck in there for a while. Led out through a side door and rejoined traffic. Glad to board the ferry and get dry. Already pre-paid by card so was given a boarding card and straight on. Ferry was a bit late leaving port and was glad of this, as there would be less time waiting around in Calais for the first train of the morning at 05.03 to Lille. On board the ferry some wry amusement at teenagers dressed in yellow shirts and silly hats having a raucous time. Ok they never change, takes me back to the last time on this ferry so many years ago – just the same. Amusing to think of myself on my first crossings wandering around the boat in excitement of all things new, excitedly wandering the boat and ever restless – I did that! On arrival in Calais it was still pouring down.
Friday 29th April 2005 Huy to Revin
Day 1: Start at 2878km, 126m at Revin. Distance today 150.63km, ride time 9 hours. Average speed 16.60 kph. Maximum speed 64.50 kph. Overall distance 2854 km at Huy, 3004 km ay Revin. Trip altitude total 1656 metres, maximum altitude 367 metres, 5% average climb, maximum climb 20% gradient.
It was only 01.00 a.m. and I needed somewhere to rest until 04.30. Shop doorways and chairs stacked outside, pulled one out and sat in the covered area in front of a closed café for a while but there was no real protection from the rain and I would be in no fit state for a bike ride tomorrow if I stayed here. Gare Calais Ville was locked until 04.30 so searched out a hotel to kip down for a few hours. The concierge at the Hotel Metropole around the corner from the station was very understanding and I slept soundly for nearly 3 hours in a comfortable leather chair in front of a fire, clothes drying. Good thing I woke up when I did and looked at the wall clock. It gave British and French time and suddenly realised I had only ½ an hour to go for the train, as I didn’t advance my watch by one hour. This was a bonus as I could now sleep comfortably on the train. I didn’t remember my journey to Lille as I completely crashed out. Time to spare in Lille for a petit dejeneur for 4€ in front of the station – would have been better on the station for 2€ for the same thing! Decided to stay on the 07.24 train to Liege as far as Huy (pronounced 00EE) and tackle “ The way of the Chapels” – Chemin de Chappelles. (Brevette International Grimpeur no. 125) The start of this is at Pied Monte du Huy and a fork right from here, Avenue du Condroz. Look out for the white painted ‘HUY’ on the road to the right on the slight incline. As you round the bend to the right the road rises very steeply past a series of small white chapels on either side of the road, first on the right then later on the left until reaching the large church that crowns the top of the road. I missed it on the way up and continued up the hill some way on the main road, took a right to La Sarte further up and came down the Wall of Huy. At the bottom I turned tail and went up again, taking 30 minutes to reach the top. Back down and returned to Gare Huy and the next train (11.09) back to Namur. The same guard was on the train that checked my ticket earlier and wondered what I was doing. Told him I got off to go up the hill and gave me a strange look, I completely understand and sympathise my own trivial pursuit – but I enjoyed it!
Down the escalator with the bike admiring the metal concourse of the huge station interior then left along the road heading for the river bridge then along the road heading for Dinant at midday. The ride today would be 150km or 81 miles from 12.00 until 19.30. The day I was here the road in the town on the other side of the Meuse was in the process of being gated off for an event. I just got through before the barriers were set. My next climb for conquest was the Three Wall Mount – Triple Mur Monty (BIG No. 120) from the Namur to Dinant road up to Lustin village. To begin with there is a pleasant ride through the woods then a fork off to the right among the trees called Rue Monty. This is a steep road from the start but only for about a kilometre where it levels out on reaching Lustin village, first seen with a house perched on the road to the left on the edge of the climb. The main climb is at the beginning and end with a slightly easier gradient midway. I enjoyed the downhill after passing through the red brick village, taking the second right and along to Godinne.
La Gayolle was my next objective, from Godinne back to the main road and along to Yvoir, took a sign for Crupet and passed to the left of a noisy and messy stone quarry where half the hill had already been excavated. The lorries going back and to had really messed the road up. As I had no guards on the bike it left me with a muddy streak up my racing top that I cleaned off later. I reached a quieter area with a campsite on the right and a road behind this. I noticed the café called Pied du Petit Gayolle and still hadn’t twigged that ‘pied’ means ‘foot’ and marked the base of the climb. Asked the way of a couple of people chatting over a garden wall and was directed up the road. One said it was far too steep for cycling and replied that was why I wanted to go up it – again strange looks – funny these cyclists. The way up is easy at first with views down to the road and camping around the small lake below. At the first of 3 hairpins it becomes steeper and leaves the valley behind then steeply up through some woods, two more bends to a clearing at the top. (BIG No. 121). Down to Evrehailles that I could see before me then further down to the road again at Yvoir and on to Dinant along the main road. Through the town and took a right up from the onion dome church on the river, along here for about 2km then took a right indicated ‘citadelle’. An easy road to the top among houses, turned right by a football pitch and along the rough road to the citadelle. Asked where the Montagne de la Croix was in relation to this. Told to go back to the football pitch, turn right (continuing along the road I came up) and along for about 2km. Television masts and an indication to an ostrich farm mark the top! (BIG No. 122). Went on from here along the same road that continues downhill steeply to a junction indicating Neuchatel to the left or Beauraing to the right. I was a bit confused at this because if I took the right I would end up on the wrong side of the river for going on to Givet along the west side of the river heading south. Nothing for it, took this and back to the onion tower church, over the Meuse and left for Givet hugging the river passing more white cliffs and a Freyr chateau that is advertised as a mini Versailles. In Givet stocked up with orange juice and fruit from an Aldi store then left the river at Vireux and up passing through Treignes with its old cobbled streets and large church tower a bit out of proportion to the size of the village. Up then down to Petigny then branched off to the right just before Couvin for the ride to Barrage du Rome. (BIG no. 119). The highest part of this road is after the dam on the road through Bois Couvin at 360 metres. Avoided the main road down to Revin at 19.30, stayed on the lane near to Bruly but continued along the quiet country road, mainly downhill then up a bit through Gue d’Hossus to the busy road junction at Hiraumont then down a pleasant road to Revin and found a hotel for 32€, € for the night alongside the river at 20.00, meal for 11.50.
Saturday 30th April 2005 Revin to Bertrix
Day 2: Trip distance 111 km, ride time 7 hours, average speed 15.80 kph, overall distance 3114 km, trip altitude total 1882m, maximum altitude 520 metres, total altitude 20223 metres, average climb 5%, maximum climb 15% gradient.
Difficult to find my way out of Revin on to the road for Mont Tranet. Knew that I wanted to cross to the river and somewhere to the left of the hotel as I faced the river but couldn’t find the road. Did a complete circuit of the town before finding a town map on a board – only 200 yards or so from where I started. Out to the right past Place de la Republic then took a left fork over a disused railway track then immediately up through the woods. Soon passing the monument to the Marquis with black pigs flanking the memorial to the brave fallen from 1940 to 1944, their heroic resistance to the German occupation. Mont Tranet (BIG No. 213) is reached after about 3km of steady climbing, twists and turns at first through the woods with great views looking back to Revin. For the last kilometre the road becomes dead straight as it heads for the radio masts to the left, these mark the top of the climb. There is only a gentle rise up the kilometre and down the other way, heading east, the road drops gradually through the woods with hardly any view until a drop out of the woods to les Hautes Butts. A long sweep down from there to Montherme. I really enjoyed cycling along the Semnoy valley. The highlights were the Col du Loup, Bohan and its cafés, Rochehaut and the view down to Frahan surrounded by the loop of the river Semoy and watching the paragliding from here, also Col du Corbin and down to Bouillon. The Col du Loup was reached from Tilhay and along to the sleepy village of Navaux and steeply up through the woods followed by a long grind uphill to the col and the junction of roads. Nice to be greeted by a French col marker only ever seen in the French Alps before now. Steeply down to les Hautes Rivieres, a place with an exotic name but doesn’t look too interesting! On from there to Bohan with loads of cyclists lounging at the cafes by the river bridge then over the Col des Fiances du Chatelet 235 metres. From Bohan to Membre followed by the Col de la Haizette 277 metres, Vresse to Mesnes and to Rochehaut after turning off at Alle. Over the Corbion and arriving in Bouillon sweeping downhill and through a tunnel under the castle I stopped for Duvel beer and nuts for 1.50€ taking in the view of the castle along the river, bought a Duvel bar mat as a souvineer for a euro. Asked the way for the minor road taking in the next pass over to Dohan. The pass topped by a 12th century chapel called Notre Dame of Walcourt, it was steep ride up for a kilometre above the town, lined with houses most of the way then open farmland. I had a painful ride as the shorts became sweaty in the heat and developed blisters. Dropped down through the Bouillon forest along a lane to Four Ways (les 4 Chemins) and enjoyed a pleasant hour along country lanes to Carignan then along the main road to Margut and up the short but steep St Walfroy Ermitage (BIG no. 215) then returned the same way to Dohan and through Auby, steep down and up on the main road then off to the left for the road to Bertrix. I caught a train from here having already cycled the St Hubert pass to the north of here back in 1980 with Andy – 25 years ago! The train went a short way to Libramont then caught a connection a few minutes later and settled down for the comfortable trip to Liege via Namur. Found a quiet hotel in the city not too far from the station but the girl in there had no other staff with her and wasn’t able to man the desk and make a meal so I wandered the city streets a short way and found a good place to have a pasta and a couple of beers. (Beers bought from a local shop!).
Sunday 1st May 2005 Liege to Trois Ponts
Day 3: Trip distance 128 km, altitude reading at Trois Ponts 302 metres, ride time 8 hours, average speed 15.90kph, maximum speed 19.50kph, total overall distance 3242 km, total trip altitude today 1937 metres, maximum elevation 737 metres, average climb 4%, maximum climb 20%, total elevation 2697, top elevation 1905.
Along to the station for the 09.18 train to Luxembourg. Pretty good going as I only woke up at 08.45 – no alarm. I got off at Aywaille half an hour later after chocolate biscuits, banana and yogurt in the empty carriage next to where the bike was hanging. From Aywaille I asked the way to Remouchamps as unsure of my direction, Aywaille station is in a side road off the main road and there are no signposts. Five minutes to Remouchamps then right at a roundabout that has a railway coal wagon in the centre on the main road towards Spa. Off to the right, over a river bridge and under the motorway bridge. Totally ignored the turning off to the right parallel to the motorway – at my own peril – as this was the correct road up to the La Redoute BIG No. 128). Instead I pedalled on up the logical way, straight on and up but then the road petered out into a track. With a few twists and turns (I think 6) on the way up then following a hedge to the left I emerged just below the top of the road below the radio mast. It would have been much easier on the road as I found out on the way down later so came up again to do it the right way. Well that BIG was truly conquered! I pushed the bike up the one kilometre up the track, took a photo at the top of the road then back down. Noticed there is a one-way system halfway down because of a sharp bend and narrow road. I really should have noticed the painted road near the motorway bridge. Back over the river and left on the N697 on the long grind out of Remouchamps towards Spa as the road gains higher ground into the Ardennes. At the crossing of the N606 a Belgian cyclist told me my best route would be to go south to Haute Desnie then north again to avoid the steep hill down and up. I said I would do that not wanting to ignore a local’s advice. After a chat he went on his way and I continued straight on down and up the steep hill – ‘cos I like the hills. After that it was glorious sweep down the hill in open country into Spa. I made a stop in the town to buy a small pizza (1.50€) from a shop near a bar on the main road then sat down with it at the bar and requested a Leffe beer (2€). It was really warm now but fully energised I negotiated the town streets and took the road up to the airdrome. Once there I turned off to the left just after it and cycled the quiet road through the dense woods of Bois de Hatrai, really pleasant. When I met the main road thought if I continued following the cycle path route I would be on the right track from Cokaifagne to Xhoffraix. How wrong I was! The way became a very rough track following the Hogne stream along what seems to be a disused railway track. I left this at a bridge as I scrambled up the embankment first the bike then the panniers, then down to a clearing over the Hogne over a wooden bridge and wooden walkway, past a group of horse riders and on to a forest road to emerge at a lane where there’s a choice of ways. I asked some women (wo)manning the drinks/eats stand for the cycling event that I found myself taking part in where the route was from here to Signal de Botragne. They looked at me strangely as I was miles away from it! I was told to continue to the left into Solwaster – after some drinks and biscuits from them. After the village with its quiet pub and church it was up and down then steeply up to Jalhay. From here along the N672 to the right to Bella Croix. At the time this was being resurfaced and the road for about 4km was just a wide, dusty, pebbly track going slightly up on to the busy N68 coming up from Eupen. The road I was on was closed but a few cars passed me, just as well as they created a lot of dust in the air as they passed. On joining the N68 though I was back in the flow of traffic crossing the heathland here at the highest point in Belgium. It was very warm and needed a stop at the Mt Rigi café on the right side of the road before the left turn to Belgium’s highest point at Signal de Botragne BIG No. 126. I had a coke and shared the bench with a few Germans. We had a chat and they seemed surprised that I was from England, congratulating me on my attempt at German conversation. I freshened up then moved on the short way to the road pass. I took a few leaflets of the area from the tourist information office up there, took the essential photos then back down to the road junction only this time I took a left for the long freewheel down to Malmedy and up the hill to the right to get to the Malmedy road pass (BIG No. 127). From Malmedy the way was level then uphill as far as the bridge under the motorway then an easy road along to Stavelot. I had a fresh orange drink (2.00€) from a bar while weighing up where the Stockau road was in relation to this. I turned off to the north along a cobbled street past an old castle keep then up to some houses and left. I soon found the Stockau indicated as a street sign. Into bottom gear, past houses to emerge in the woods. Past a large house on the left then leaving the houses behind I reached a metal monument to Eddy Merckx. Half of his profile and half a bike embedded in an upright flat stone surface to the right of the road at the top of the climb. (BIG No. 133) It’s a steep road up to this point but only for about 2km. From here it’s less steep to the top on a quiet lane in farming country. Down from here to Wanne where there is a monument to American paratroopers and the Belgian resistance in the war. At this point there’s a signpost, a quick check of the map and decided to go right for Grand Halleaux and the Wall of Wanne (BIG No. 132). This is a short steep section along the road to the village and steeper coming from that direction. Down the roads pass and right in Grand Halleaux to emerge on the road for Trois Ponts (Three Bridges). A steady downhill all the way and found a hotel on the corner of a street at a reasonable price. I booked in at the room and left my bags there and continued on with camera and map north to La Gleize then took a right for Col du Rosier (BIG no. 131). The road rises steadily to the top then a long down to the right into Andrimont and on to Ruy and Roanne, all farming villages. It’s a steep road down to Ruy then back along the easy road to Trois Ponts in the gathering dusk. I ate at another hotel at a bridge (presumably one of the three bridges) and had tagliatelli with ham and cheese, and washed it down with a Hoegaarden beer and a Duvel, all for 12.00€. Back to the first hotel at 22.45 only to find the main door locked and the place in darkness, however I had a key to get through the door to the rooms. Bed at 23.00.
Stone plaque at top of Col du Redoute (BIG 128) reads; Dans Cette Plaine Aeulieven aout 1943 un parachutage auprofit de la resistance. In English; On this plain, Aeulieven August 1943 parachutists landed to aid the Resistance.
Monday 2nd May 2005 Trois Ponts to Luxembourg
Day 4: Trip distance 134km, ride time 8 hours, average speed 16.30kph, maximum speed 50kph, overall distance 3377km, trip altitude 1994 metres, maximum altitude 596 metres, average climb 3%, maximum climb 14%, total altitude 22217 metres, top elevation 2762
Up at 07.45 and caught up with the diary, out at 08.30 heading for the station then up the road as it winds up out of Trois Ponts for about 3km to reach the high point before Aissomont (BIG no. 130). There is an adventure play park outward-bound centre up here on the left, a wooden structure. Great views across to the east from the top. I went back down the same way and collected my bags from the hotel then out along to Manhay, the road rises steadily to this point for quite a distance. When there I wanted to try an Ardenne coffee at the pub on the crossroads. This cost 3.00€ and was coffee, and rum in a quaint earthenware flat pot held by the sides between thumb and forefinger, accompanied by a small tub of thick cream. This woke me up! Col du Rideaux was my day’s first objective with Baroque du Frature (BIG No. 134) en route. This is only a short climb to the south, steady but not difficult for 7km along an interesting road. Felt slightly merry on the uphill from here! Back down to Manhay then took a left then right almost immediately on the downhill to Mormont. It’s a steep rise to the village, very quiet crowning the hill then off to the left along a leafy lane down to Fanzel, took a left at the bottom, over the stream then right and a steep rise along Pierrestraat for 2km and 30 minutes to the top of the Col du Rideaux (BIG No. 129), marked by another radio mast to the right of the road among the trees. There is a road junction and a signpost to Heyd and a board here indicating the name of the pass. I turned tail and rode steeply down the same way. From here I had a labourious ride against the wind to Fisenne following the Aisne stream and through woods and open country to Dochamps then up to Samree. Emerging on to the main road, I took a right and careered down hill heading for La Roche but turned off to the left halfway down at a post indicating a forest road and the next pass of the day, the Haussier. It’s a short steep section under the trees for 1.5 km then reaching a sign on the left indicating the top of the pass and the only Cotacol sign seen on this trip I leaned the bike in the ditch before it and took the obligatory photo then enjoyed a long downhill into La Roche, arriving at a campsite on the Houffalize road then turned right into the town. Perhaps the other Cotacol signs are in Flanders – will have to wait and see some future year. The Haussier was the favourite pass of my tour; I really enjoyed cycling through the woods and the long descent on a good smooth narrow road down into La Roche. I stopped a while for a coffee and had a wander round the town. It rained for the first time since arriving in Belgium but this didn’t last long. I back tracked to the campsite and along the Houffalize road and took a right in Maboge over the stream by a campsite to Pied Monte (BIG No. 137) and my last pass. I had to work at this, as it was steep. I returned the same way, along to Nadrin then followed the river, watching the kayaking on the right and down to Houffalize. I stopped at a café to a campsite on the right and had a cheese and ham roll and slaked my thirst in the heat with an orange juice and a coffee then on for the last stage of my tour. In Houffalize I asked in the tourist office in the small centre for the best road to Clervaux as there are a few roads radiating out from this point. I was directed off to the right and up a hill but before that stopped to take a photo of a German Tiger tank on display with its barrel pointing up and a large shell standing next to it. From there up the hill then into open country after the village of Tavigny with its chateaux, took a photo here. I crossed the border among open fields. The area seems so different from the Belgian Ardennes that was now behind me, this was a gap between them and the Luxembourg Ardennes reached on entering Clervaux. Along the country lanes through Troine and Crendal entering the Luxembourg like walking through the back door. The main road I joined was heading for St Vith but I took a right for Clervaux by a row of huge wind propellers. Steeply down to the town and had a look round and checked the time of the train at Clervaux station. Had a beer at the hotel opposite the station to celebrate and boarded the train to Luxembourg City arriving in good time to bike to the hostel just before dark. I had a smashing pasta meal in the hostel for 5.00€ washed down with a couple of beers. I chatted with a Dutchman who thought English people were ‘cool’ but he disliked Germans and Americans. The pub in the hostel closed at 23.00 and wondered if I would like to join him round town to find a pub. I declined because I needed to get up early in the morning and wanted to be clear headed. I needed to go for an early train at 08.00 – the only direct train to Cologne that I could take a bike on. I had a terrible night at the hostel, as there was a huge German snoring in a lower bunk and because of his size nobody dared disturb him. I even had earplugs in but they didn’t serve the purpose so I’m sure nobody else in their slept. He was just so loud. I retreated outside into the corridor and slept on the floor with duvet and pillow. More noisy Germans from the dormitory opposite the corridor waked me at 06.00. I can see why the Dutchman didn’t like Germans.
Train times from Trois Ponts to Luxembourg:
Trois Ponts 18.11, Vielsalm 18.21, Gouvy 18.32, Troisvierze 18.43, Clervaux 18.53, Drauffet 18.59, Wilwerwiltz 19.02, Kautenbach 19.07, Ettelbruck 19.19, Mersch 19.30, Luxembourg 19.45 followed by another train at the same times 2 hours later.
Tuesday 3rd May 2005 Luxembourg to Holmes Chapel
There was no problem going for the early train. I had loads of time after breakfast and for the warden to bring my bike from the garage under the hostel. I had a look around the cliff walls below the main city streets. Here is where the Romans built their fortifications. It now a protected UNESCO site. Putting the bike on the German train was no problem as there was plenty of space – for bike and people. Most of the way along the Moselle and the Rhine I had the carriage to myself. I had a problem on Cologne purchasing a suburban line train ticket for myself and the bike from the automatic ticket machine. I queued up for ages in the DB ticket office then was told to buy it at the machine but I couldn’t understand how to operate it. Finally somebody helped and directed me away from the red machine to the orange one around the corner. He helped me buy the tickets at 2.60€ each for me and bike. I had to stand on the train all the way, holding the bike. The trip took about 40 minutes to the airport – Koln Conrad Eidenuer. I dismantled the bike outside the airport, strapped the front wheel to the frame, removed the pedals, flattened the tyres, turned the bars parallel to the frame and placed it in a plastic bike cover bought from Wilkinson’s store for £3.99. Secured it with furniture tape and nylon string. The pannier bags I strapped together and checked them in. The bike had to go through the oversize baggage X-ray machine and said goodbye to it until it reached Liverpool. After checking in, through passport control and bought a litre bottle of Southern Comfort for £8. The plane arrived in Liverpool on time. Toyed with the idea of taking a taxi to Runcorn as the bike was neatly packaged but decided against. It took time to undo but after re-assembling the bike I cycled along to Runcorn with only a few minutes to wait for a train to Crewe but had a ½ hour wait there for my connection. I arrived home at 21.30. After a bath and pasta I collapsed into bed, glad to be home – and it’s a workday tomorrow!
Total tour was 507 kilometres (316.50 miles) averaging 79 miles a day. Started at 2878km, finished at 3385km