HOLMES CHAPEL, depart 00.15 (Thursday)
CREWE arrive 00.32
CREWE depart 00.46 04.24
MANCHESTER AIRPORT arrive 01.14 05.12
FLIGHT OUT, Thursday I7thJune 1999
MANCHESTER depart 06.25 FlightNo.BA2901
GATWICK arrive 07.30
GATWICK depart 10.30 FlightNo.BA259
VERONA arrive 13.45
FLIGHT HOME, Sunday 27th June 1999
VERONA depart 16.55
GATWICK arrive 18.05 Flight No. BA2597
GATWICK depart 20.30
MANCHESTER AIRPORT arrive 21.30 Flight No. BA29I2
Italian Railways web site : WWW.FS-ON-LINE.COM
ALTO ADIGE, FRIULI – VENEZIA GIUILIA
Wednesday 16th June 1999
Ruth stayed up to midnight and even got up again at 02.15 to say a last goodbye! She heard the front door gently click shut!
Thursday 17th June 1999 Verona to Brixen (train)
I cycle to the airport - first time I’ve done this but it worked - a very pleasant evening too, warm and hardly any cars (counted 15 the whole way) Set off at 02.20 and arrived at the airport at 03.50, so it took just 1.½ hours via Chelford, Alderley Edge and Wilmslow – streets almost deserted. From Wilmslow it was a very quiet road through the two runway tunnels then the service road to terminal 3. Booked in after a long wait in the B.A. area until the check in opened at 05.00. Came to disassemble the bike, took off pedals, let the tyres down but didn’t need to turn the handlebars. Found out on arrival at Verona that there was slight damage to the teeth of the outer chainring but this didn’t affect the bike’s performance. I noticed at the start of the ride from home that my computer reading was at 48.4 miles. I cycled 19 miles to the airport and a further 11 miles from Verona Airport at Villafranca to Verona railway station. This made a total of 78.4 miles. Both plane trips were superb, totally unlike last year. There was a slight delay arriving at Verona but then it started off from Gatwick half an hour late so that wasn’t so bad. Phoned up Ruth from Gatwick at 07.40. Read a magazine, which I left behind at a Gatwick coffee lounge. Had a large espresso served by an Italian lady so told her I was on my way to her homeland. I fell asleep for half an hour but soon awake when the announcement came for the Verona flight. Not many on this plane. I had a whole row free to myself. It was a cloudless sky from Gatwick and it was possible to make out many coastal areas over the channel and across to Germany. It was easy to recognise Dover but not others. The route was over Holland and Germany, mainly over the coast as far as Bremerhaven. The route was then along the Rhine and over the Alps then over Luzern, Lugano, and Lake Como, descending over Lecco to Verona. It was a warm 82 degree Fahrenheit and dry.
After assembling the bike and customs clearance I was finally ‘on the road again’, my only problem now was how to avoid an autostrada and risk a 50,000 lire fine if caught taking my pleasure along one!
I achieved the inevitable and took the first turning from the airport - signposted in blue - for Verona. So far so good, down the ramp onto a quiet dual carriageway. The blue signs soon changed to green ones - I was on an autostrada. I raced along on the hard shoulder to get to the next exit. Got off and found a much quieter road to Verona station. Caught the 14.45 train to Brixen, arriving at 18.00. Slept a lot on the train - needed to catch up on a night awake.
Searched round for a hotel at a reasonable price in Brixen, eventually found one on a road climbing away from the town to the east, on a minor road to the Dolomites, a four star hotel called Hotel Templehof at 80,000 lire. Bike parked well out of the way in the hotel service area.
After a shower and change I enjoyed a good meal in the restaurant. An old waiter who was like a frantic mother hen, running around like an old fusspot, served me. I had spaghetti followed by a meat dish then ice cream - and I was full up! I slept contented that night.
Friday 18th June 1999 Brixen to Forni di Sopra
Out from Brixen at 10.30, I needed the lie in, uphill most of the way to Muhlbach then a more gentle up to Bruneck, 35 km from Brixen. I caught a train from here to San Candino / lnnechen as I wanted to get to the first of the passes quickly and get up at least three today. Good views along the Val Pusteria to Bruneck but a fairly busy road. Didn’t want to cycle along this - I needed to get some fresh mountain air! At San Candino there was some doubt of the route at first but soon worked this out, I was through the village and up through Sexten to the KREUZBERG PASS. There is one hotel at the top of the easy ascent. Good views of the Dolomite peaks, photos taken then down to Cornelico. Turned off at Padola for the ascent of the next pass, the SAN ANTONIO or PASSO DEL ZOVO, more photos. A steep descent to Auronzo along a main road to Bagni di Gogno where there’s a reservoir on the west side of the main road, not shown on the 200,000 scale map that I use. At the busy junction before Lozzo I took the road up to PASSO DI MAURIA via Pelos. At about 5.00 p.m. I bought a load of fruit here and already scoffed the lot with a light cold beer that had no effect. Rode up to Passo di Mauria which was easy enough but not very scenic. At Lorenzago I was in time to see a funeral cortege entering the town church while I sat in front of a grocers shop eating a large yoghurt (bought chocolate and a large pineapple juice too) The cortege left while I was still sat there munching. Such was the remembrance of his life - all over by the time I devoured a tub of yoghurt. What is life - it’s just a vapour - here today, gone tomorrow.
Took the usual shots at the top of the pass, then tumbled down the other side to Forni di Sopra where I spent the night at Hotel Edelweiss.
Saturday 19th June 1999 Forni di Sopra to Sutrio
Slept so well but up before the alarm, raring to go. Up at 7.30 and out at 8.45. Had my fill at breakfast; ate all the jams, butters, 3 rolls, and biscuits and had 3 coffees so I was full up and had plenty of energy for the next few hours. Lifted the bike from the ramp under the hotel then set out, downhill for a while as the continuation of the pass but at Vico it was up again, followed by another sweep down through a gallery aptly named Passo Di Morte - it was pitch black - the pass of death!
From here up to the first pass of the day at 10.00 the SELLA CORSA, which is only an incline from the Mauria Pass, a hiccup on the way down. I was making good time, saw the turning for the next pass, the PASSO D PURA at 10.30. It now took me until 4.00 p.m. to arrive at the other end of this range, at S Stefano di Cadore -5.½ hours! The climb up the Passo D Pura, 5.½ miles, took me 1.½ hours. It was so hot and steep but very scenic through the woods. Great views down towards Ampezzo. The pass is scenic at the top, a sign to mark the top made of polished wood with a small chapel next to it. People were picking flowers up here. A few buildings dotted about, mainly holiday apartments. From here steeply down through meadows of wild flowers then woods and a very dark, long and scary gallery, just before Lago di Sauris. I let rip with a few choice words but I was scared out of my wits. It was raining along the lake but it didn’t last too long. There was a vehicle count checkpoint at La Mama as I emerged from the gallery along the lake. I was counted along with the cars. They should have told me that the road after Sauris was closed! Steeply up through wild flower meadows and being passed by endless sports cars (what is it about the colour red?) as far as Sauris di Sotto (Under Sauris - as in sottopassagio - underpass), then a slow meander through more flower meadows to Sauris di Sopra (Upper Sauris) where I bought a litre of milk. I should have asked for latte not latche - was told that was Slovenian. It was a very quiet road above Sauris -no cars passed me. I wasn’t surprised later when I found out why but I was surprised there were no road signs further down the valley to say that the road was closed! Shortly after I donned overshoes and leggings as the rain came down then I came face to face with a notice that said ‘ Strada interrupto’ per 2km’ Oh no! What now -didn’t want to bike all the way back. Nothing else for it, I ignored the warning and carried on then came face to face with a mechanical digger.
The digger was in a huge mucky hole, ten foot down below where the road should have been. No way was I turning back. Commando style I lifted the bike and bags and struggled past the occupied workers huts, they didn’t see me. If there was any real danger in this I would turn back but as I emerged past the digger I could see the road again on the other side, ten yards away. It wasn’t too difficult to carry the bike across. Looking up it was clear there had been an avalanche. Having arrived back at the road I soon found out that there was no tarmac surface - just loose stones. I had to push the bike most of the way to the top of PASSO RAZZO. The road was gradually being rebuilt but for sure it wouldn’t be ready this summer - and certainly not today!
It wasn’t so bad struggling up as the pass wasn’t steep. I reached the barrier at the top that indicated the road closure as being for 4km and not 2km as indicated on the other side. So glad I didn’t attempt the climb from this side, it would have been demoralising. From here the road was surfaced with small stones, perhaps the whole of the higher part of the pass was like this. Where the road ended it emerged on to tarmac road at the summit marker. Took the usual photos and decided not to go left and up to SELLA CIAMPIGGOTTO as it was only 30 foot higher but 5 km away -could see it anyway from here. Instead I turned right to go down the pass in an attempt to catch up on time lost. I reached LAVARDET PASS then made the mistake of adding more to my delay by descending road number 465, which, according to my map, was a road, not another stony track! It was loose stones most of the way. At least it is all downhill. The lower part of the road followed a mountain stream. In the middle of this was a tarmac section - fortunately - that descended the mountainside in a series of 20 regular hairpins. Looking back on this after the descent it resembled a spiral staircase in some country estate. There are classic short hairpins down into the valley, the road continuing at the bottom of this over a wide wooden bridge spanning the river. From here it was a fast descent later on a smooth surface down to S.Stefano but at first there were more loose stones to negotiate after the bridge. On this section there was another road closure notice. This was because the bridge was down and in it’s place was a steep ramp down and up again through a ford. On reflection it would have been impossible to cycle this road in the opposite direction even on the best mountain bike, as it would have been too steep on large stones and numerous obstacles. I was so glad to arrive at S. Stefano a long time after I’d anticipated. At S.Stefano I began a fairly easy ascent of the SAPPADA PASS. It was raining a little but it soon went off. After about 3 km there was a fantastic waterfall to the south of the main road near Lerpa. Sappada village is just a load of tourist shops selling spirits and cigarettes, probably because of it’s proximity to the Austrian border. The actual pass summit is much quieter and 2 km further up away from Sappada - just when I thought I’d gone past it as I was looking for the summit marker in Sappada village. From the top it was a long sweep down through well-wooded scenery, a right turn at Forni and past what was evidently a motor bikers popular cafe in Rigplato, on the right down to Comeglians. Took the right turn just through the gallery, signposted Ravascletto and Austria. It’s a steep climb for 7 km to VALCALDA PASS (the hot valley!) This is a relentless climb to the road summit, wearing at the end of the day. There is a four star hotel just before the top, on the right but I continued up and over the top. There’s no hotel at the top as hoped for, not even a sign marking the top of the pass. So I swooped down through the woods to Sutrio near the foot of the pass and found it’s only hotel, Hotel Negro. This cost me 35,000 lire plus 5,000 lire for breakfast. (Forni di Sopra last night was 65,000 lire; the first night at Brixen was 20,000 lire, meals extra.)
I cleaned the bike from today’s rain - in the hotel hallway! Also cleaned my overshoes and cagoule in the room’s sink. Had a shower and then a walk around the village. Had my meal back at the hotel at 9.00pm - pasta followed by steak and a mixed salad, a litre of red wine and ½ litre of mineral water. Took the wine back to the room and tidied up my bags, read a lot and slept so well, out like a light!
Sunday 20th June 1999 Sutrio to Pontebba
It had been raining during the night but now it was just damp - perfect for cycling. I left the hotel at 9.00 after breakfast. The way ahead was only ½ a mile to the end of the Valcalda road, over a wide wooden bridge spanning the river coming down from the Austrian border. Turned left at the end and I was on my way up the PLOCKEN PASS. It is a long, straight gentle up at first, becoming steeper as I approached the narrowing valley. From Cluelis to Timau the road is level on a plateau but after that the road climbs higher as there was nowhere else for the road to go. For a few miles ahead the way is through woods, which was just as well because if I’d have seen those hair raising hairpins way above I may have been put off. It was a long grind up that took me 2.¼ hours in all. At the red cantonal building in the woods on the way up, the sign indicates 12 tornate. Some of these are through galleries, made worse and a bit scary by the number of motorcyclists thundering through. Great views down to the valley but didn’t want to look up as the road winds up much higher through the barren rocks. This pass was more difficult than I first thought. The last part was very steep. Centuries ago I’m sure the Italians and Austrians had very little to do with one another. I stopped for nearly an hour at the top, enjoyed spaghetti and a couple of Segafreddo espressos at a cafe up there. There were a few parties of bikers in here. There are the usual souvineer shops at the top but none on the Austrian side as the road immediately enters into a tunnel behind the unmanned customs posts. This brilliantly lit tunnel is a lot more up market than the Italian galleries that have no lights. The road on the Austrian side is super smooth compared to the potholes on the Italian side. The tunnel does away with the very steep ascent near the summit from the Austrian side - much more humane but a lot more boring! I would have liked to have gone down the Austrian side but then I wouldn’t have had the pleasure (or the pain?) of the Italian passes to the east of here to the Slovenian border and it would have meant a long way back again through Austria. There’s a large wind propeller at the top on the Austrian side, the only structure up there on the Austrian side. Was this for wind energy or did it serve as air filtering for the road tunnel? I left to go back down the same way at 12.00 noon - it took me twenty minutes to reach where I started from earlier - at 30 mph and fully wrapped up for the descent. I had some confusion at Paluzza looking for the road to Treppo and beyond. Asked an old lady who was staring at me from her window, as I was puzzling over my map. The distance to Treppo was easy but the remainder of the way to reach the LUIS PASS took me 1.½ hours. There is a very steep ascent to Ligosullo - but this is only the beginning, after six steep and winding hairpins. There are glorious views back down the valley from the top of these hairpins - looking down the road to Treppo from the way I came. I thought I had reached the top when I reached a restaurant, strategically placed complete with Italian flag, beyond which was a downhill. How wrong I was! The pass goes on further through wonderful alpine meadows in full bloom. One driver was driving ever so slowly while his wife was walking through the fields picking the wild flowers. Another climb, a last gasp the road - and -me and I reached the top, which was unannounced as there was no marker as usual for all the effort. Perhaps the Italians don’t have cyclists in mind but this one had been a real challenge. Swiftly down to Paularo, the road a bit rough in places. In Paularo I had a look around the Sunday market on the main street then took the long winding road, very narrow at first, this road took me the rest of the day! The way up the ZERMULA PASS / PASSO D. CASON is very narrow and steep, and a rough, lonely road. There wasn’t much traffic the whole way but I found out later why this wasn’t a popular pass. There had been a landslide just below the road summit on the other side, to the east. For 2 km the pass was closed because there had been a serious rock fall. It was a long, hot struggle and lots of stretches so steep that it was impossible to ride my bike in many places. For the last 4 km there is a gallery above Paularo, then a brief respite of very little climbing where the road hugs to the hillside, clinging to the edge for the gap to strike up again. About half way between the 1063 and 970 metre heights shown on the map, I came to a large wooden hut called Cason in the middle of the pine trees, no other buildings around. This was like an oasis, there was music coming from the hut and a wonderful smell of burning charcoal. In the darkness of the hut were a briquette fire in the centre and 2 Italian lads with a saxophone and an accordion. They didn’t have all the right notes though! I had lemonade and a coffee in there - coffee served from a flask. It was a fly swatting, hot ride / walk along the hot ascent to Passo di Cason and the building appeared like a mirage at the top. (Was it really the top? Yes it was!) I was so relieved! Here I developed rear end soreness, it was bad enough yesterday evening but now it was even worse. I had a V shaped sore that needed Vaseline cream relief urgently! After coffee and mineral water in the cafe and photos of the top I set off at 6.00pm down the pass, hoping to make up time to get to Tarvisio. No such luck. Landslides for 2 km below the road summit blocked the road. I clambered down, wheeling the bike over boulders of fallen rock. I fell once but very carefully and slowly made it to the other side. I asked some walkers who had come up the other side. They said it was OK to carry on. Back on the road again, after a few hundred yards along the narrow road through the pine trees, some motorcyclists came up the opposite way. They didn’t come back again and I heard their engines being switched off higher up. They would have had a real struggle pushing those bikes up. They never did come back again so either they reached the top or fell in. There was nowhere to stay on the way down. About halfway I met a herd of cows blocking the road. My brakes were still working. Then there was a bridge down over the river, which was a struggle, as I had to clamber down and up the riverbank, fording it very slowly on the bike. Much of the way down on the road was stony. It took me an hour to get to Pontebba. I arrived at 7.00 pm. so the further 26 km to Tarvisio wasn’t possible - unless I could catch a train. Eventually found the train station along the Tarvisio road but there were no more trains to Tarvisio until much later which would have made it impossible to find somewhere to stay. I found a hotel in Pontebba at about 8.00pm. Pontebba had been the border town between Italy and Austria before the First World War.
On the bridge spanning the river there are two cylindrical concrete pillars on the east side, either side of the bridge. One was in Italian, the other in German:
Kaiserthum, Oesterreich / Herzocthum, Karnten / IX 3/10 Myriameter von Klagenfurt. Grenzstein der Ehemaligen Grenze ltalien - Osterreich (bis 1918) Kronland Venedig X meilen nach Udine, Karnten XII 1/2 meilen von Klagenfurt. Lippodel Vecchio Confine ltalia - Austria ( Fino al 1918)
The west side of the town has Italian buildings; on the east side there are distinctly Austrian buildings in contrast. I took some photos then found a hotel after a second try. Perhaps my first attempt was a rebuff because I asked in German. At the second hotel in a side street I was welcomed. I caught up writing my diary after a Lapriccosa pizza and a ½ litre carafe of red wine (15,500 lire total - £5.00). Bed at 11.00 pm
Monday 21st June 1999 Pontebba to Venice Mestre
No breakfast as I wanted to get an early start. Out at 8.45 and bought some fruit and yoghurt from a shop near the railway station. Asked the way to Tarvisio, as the only road seemed to be the dual carriageway. The shopkeeper assured me that was the right way. The man tried so hard to make conversation. He asked me where I came from and my route. I told him about yesterday’s blocked road below the Zermula pass and showed him the position of the landslide on the map. He told me that it would rain this afternoon. I set off along the main road for Tarvisio. It took me an hour to get to Tarvisio, 26 km. It was a good smooth road and not too busy. In the town I tried to find a chemist to buy some Vaseline - there was a chemist - but it was closed. Had a cappuccino and breakfast roll in a street cafe, 4000 lire, and then made out along an unusual road for the PREDIL PASS and Slovenia. This road was totally un-Italian -more like what I’ve ridden with Helmut in Slovenia. From Tarvisio to the road summit of the Predil Pass it was overshadowed by the mountain range to the east, the border between Italy and Slovenia. On the right hand side (west) for much of the way there was a high barrier of raised earth. The road is narrow and lonely - very little traffic. It was dark because of the impending rain but a fairly easy road most of the way to the foot of the Predil Pass. It was a doddle climbing the Predil Pass, 4 hairpins and a gallery halfway. It took me half an hour to reach the customs gate - not really a pass more like a short rise to a gap in the mountain profile. I was asked at the top by a Slovenian customs officer “Where you go?“ I said I wasn’t going down the mountain but was turning back for Italy again. He let me through. I had 5 minutes in Slovenia and another 5 minutes down the pass, then an easy ride through forest scenery heading gradually up with the wind behind me, now heading west for the first time. I was on my way up the PASSO NEVEA. It was easy getting up from the east side. Only a few zigzags to the road summit. At about half way up is a small brown road sign indicating that this was the extent of the Austrian front line in 1915 - 1918. Four zigzags to the top of an easy climb through quiet woods to the top. There is no road summit marker. It wasn’t obvious at first as the slope was gentle up and down at the top but then a short steep descent to the village of Sella Nevea. Some middle aged Italian cyclists were watching me from the Hotel Julia window on the other side of the road. I had pulled up at a bus shelter and foraged in my bag for a tin of a good old English tin of pasta and tuna - Italian style. Importing Italian food from home to Italy, like bringing coals to Newcastle. This together with a packet of Scottish oatcakes and a drink from my bottle must have made an amusing sight to them. We exchanged how do-you-do’s as they went the other way, standing in the hotel doorway and holding out hands to test for rain before pedalling off the other way. On with my helmet, it is a long descent west down the other side of the pass. There are many twists and turns through short galleries at first then less steep sections on the long descent to Raccolana, to the end of the road where it emerged on to the main road from Tarvisio to Udine. The galleries on the steep upper descent of the pass are perched on top of one another, probably an avalanche shelter down the mountainside. I turned left on the main road for Udine. This road was very busy with lorries, one after the other. It is a gradual down hill all the way to Carnia. What with this and the traffic volume I thought it would be a wise precaution to keep my helmet on. I stopped at a supermarket undercover to stock up for my trip to Tolmezzo then the passes to the west, heading for Bolzano. Just as I stopped the heavens opened. I sheltered for a while, hoping that the rain would go off - but it got worse. Soon it became a thunderstorm, and it was hailstoning. I tried to be optimistic and continued along my planned route to Tolmezzo when the hailstones eased. It was pelting it down and blitzen donnerungen all the way to Tolmezzo and it became worse along the road. I was very wet on the outside but I found out that my rainwear was completely waterproof. It was a great opportunity to try out that new Gortex outfit. I put the hood under my helmet; the inside of the helmet was soon soaked, though. Finally found a chemist in Tolmezzo where I got some soothing Vaselino for my backside. Ah bliss! It worked a treat. It eventually gave me a new lease of life but it seemed that I’d better rest for a while. The weather was too bad, and it would be silly to continue towards the next pass, the SELLA CHIANZUTAN and eventually west along the passes towards Belluno and on to Trento and south back to Verona. I had to change my plans. What I thought I would do was to take a train to Bolzano and go up the Nigra Pass then Costalunga Pass head east then eventually south. I had another wild idea too. If the bad weather continued I would check at Udine if I could head south to Rome and cycle around there. I made my way back to Carnia from Tolmezzo now that the thunderstorm had stopped and the rain had eased. I could have stopped at the hotel in Carnia and continue the trip tomorrow on the planned route but needed a rest at this point of the trip so planned to go to Bolzano and do the passes from the west side. Asked at the hotel for directions to the nearest station. Carnia was the nearest and it was 2 minutes away! There was a train in now, the Calalzo to Udine train, departing at 6.03 pm. I pedalled furiously and just managed to catch it. Dried out on the train. Nothing was too wet except for some clothing in the top of the panniers that I would dry later in a hotel. I had ½ an hour on Udine (pronounced oodinna) station and caught a train to Venice Mestre. Made enquiries on the possibility of taking a bike to Rome - it wasn’t possible.
There was a train to Rome at 02.00 arriving in Rome at 07.30, the Eurocity, but there was no space for bikes. It would have been very impractical to carry two hefty pannier bags around Rome and that wasn’t what I was here for. I wanted to bike not walk!
I decided to catch a train at 06.15 from Venice Mestre to Verona, then on to Bolzano. I stayed the night at Hotel Piave in Venice Mestre for 100,000 lire (£35). I ate at a fish restaurant near to the hotel as it was about 10.00 pm. Had spaghetti neopolotina and a red wine which I took outside to finish. Bed at 11.00pm. Asked the man at the hotel reception to give me a wake up call at 05.00 am.
Tuesday 22nd June 1999 Venice Mestre to Meran
Woken up at 05.30, soon downstairs as I packed last thing yesterday. I was served with cappuccino, orange juice, and 2 croissants and as much fruit as I could eat and stuff in my panniers, as I wanted, only because I wasn’t having the full breakfast - too early in the morning. Collected the bike from the small secure compound by the hotel entrance, could only just get through the electric gate. Went for the 06.15 train to Verona arriving there at 07.52 in the hope of catching a connection to Bolzano. I saw one on the departures board listed at 09.50 but later found out that this didn’t run today. I had to wait until 11.45 and arrive in Bolzano at 13.29. Half the day was over and I hadn’t started yet! Cycled around the city for a while. Juliet’s Balcony, Piazza Bra, Castelvecchio and so on - then back to the station for a crowded train to Bolzano/Bozen. It was sunny for a change today; the rain of the last few days had now gone altogether. Set off along the station front and on the Brenner road as far as Prato lsareo against the strong wind. At this point I took the road up, through a tunnel that goes under the main road then steeply past Presule to near Brie, hoping to get to the NIGRA PASS then continue east for the Costalunga. but it was so tiring against the wind that I turned back and rode back to Bolzano. I caught a train to Merano, staying the night at Hotel Flora where I stayed last year. It was in an ideal part of the town, a short walk from the centre and close to a very good pizzeria on Via Roma. Had the house piazza and a large beer. Both the hotel and pizzeria were excellent. I needed the rest day, showered and went to sleep at 11.00, exhausted and hardly any miles to show for it.
Wednesday 23rd June 1999 Merano/Meran to Stelvio/Stilferjoch
After a really good breakfast and stocking up with rolls and meat for lunch I was out on the road at 09.00 along quiet roads leading out of Merano, past the old railway line and the dead centre of the town! (cemetery to the initiated). Asked the way to Forst, the brewery village which I knew was on the road heading for the STELVIO / STILFERJOCH. It is a long drag out of Merano and the Adige valley to the waterfall at the side of the main road that I knew was at the top of the valley, at Toll. From there it was a very good road through pleasant villages such as Naturns and Castelbello with its castle perched on the rock overlooking the valley, and on to Schlanders. It is a gradual uphill most of the way but with the wind behind me I made very good time to Schlanders / Silandro , a typical old Austrian town, very neat and ornate with it’s colourful buildings and narrow cobbled streets. I stopped at a supermarket to stock up for the Stelvio. There was a vintage open top car rally just about to start when I arrived in the town piazza. The motorists were doing a turn for the crowds around the cobbled square. Back on the road between here and Eyres the vintage cars were gliding past me in the same direction at a sedate speed. It was interesting to see the costumes the people were wearing - checkered suits, deerstalkers and necks wrapped around with long scarves that flowed in the wind. Many of the cars were chrome plated, had footplates, and carrying wicker picnic hampers over the boots. The road west out of the town is a fairly steep rise for 2 km through vineyards of dark grape and apples with water sprays everywhere circling around. Once above this it is an easy ride in the Lasa valley for the remaining 10 km to Spondinig / Spondigna. It took me 3 hours to get here from Merano, 35 miles away. It would take me another 4 hours to do the next 17 miles - the climb up the Stelvio yet again. It was 1979 (?) when I last rode up the pass from this side so I was about 28 at the time. I’ve tried it since, about 10 years ago, but a thunderstorm was so bad that the Italian military insisted on picking me up from above Trafoi and transporting me with the bike in the back of a landrover to the top. I had to hang on to the bike around the hairpins! This time it was bright, sunny weather, the perfect day to have another bash at it. I checked the map at Spondigna to be certain that I’ll do it this way and not via the Umbrial Pass route, but this was the way I wanted to go. Those 48 hairpins of agony had become a masochistic fascination to me! The first 1½ miles to Prato was easy as this was a road crossing the Adige valley, which is wide at this point. The road toys with the senses because just when you think this is going to be plain sailing the mountains close in to put a stop to any such fantasy at Prato. After this tree lined avenue the road begins to rise, gradually at first. The River Solda gushes down over weirs as it rushes headlong from the Ortlers above. The road becomes narrow as well as steeper as Stelvio village is seen, high above to the right. This can only be reached from Gomagio, the next village on the road further up, past the Stilfersbrucke and the first bend - not one of the fabulous 48 tornate just yet. The real road twists start at above Trafoi. The road becomes even steeper after the narrow bridge. At Gomagio there is a tourist information office and a couple of cafes. Gomagio to Trafoi is steeper again as a tantalising prelude for what’s to come after Trafoi. It’s just as well that most of the distance to this point is covered by trees, or so it seems at a glance to the map, it blocks the view of the gasp you will make when you look up after negotiating the last bend above Trafoi village! The 48 hairpins beyond Trafoi make up at least 40 per cent of the overall climb and the view of a true mountain road zigzagging up the steep mountainside is truly awe inspiring Here you bow to the mountain but determine to conquer with the challenge ahead. The col can be seen from Trafoi village. At Trafoi there’s plenty of cafés and hotels to choose from and it’s a good stopping off point for places to stay if the climb to the top doesn’t leave you with 3 hours of daylight to reach the summit marker. There’s only one other hotel after Trafoi before the summit is reached and that’s half way up at the 24th tornate. At the summit there are 6 to choose from but they’re all expensive! The last hotel out of Trafoi is Hotel Madaccio at 1500 metres on the first hairpin above the village. It’s a good place to rest away from the road at a seated area on a terrace, overlooking the village. A good place to sip cold lemonade perhaps - don’t drink wine or beer, as you’ll soon get dehydrated climbing the pass. The hairpins - Kurve - tornate are numbered from number 48 at this hotel to number one which you’re so relieved to see if you’re doing it under your own steam! Marked on each numbered stone, under the number, is the height above sea level in metres. On the Ortler Carta Topografica map published by Tabacco at 125000 or 2.½ inches to the mile, the curves have the heights printed and you can see in vivid detail how the road snakes up the side of the mountain and how much more you have to sweat it out. The first 12 curves are under the tree line so the summit can’t be seen but when you emerge out of the tree line at lucky 13 at Weisser Knott / Rocca Bianca (cafe) you see the remaining hairpins writhing up to the sky and the summit towering above. The only other building above the tree line is at the 24th curve, this is the Hotel Franzenshohe at 2189 metres, set back from the road on a drive in. The road continues up seeking crazy crevasses in the mountainside to emerge at the dizzy height of 2758 metres (8963 feet) This compares with the highest pass in the Alps - the Col D Bonette in France at 2802 metres - 9106 feet - 143 feet higher. The only other higher one on a main road is the CoI D lseran. At about the 30th curve I noticed a car parked and a man with a mobile phone to his ear and looking in my direction. Five curves later he was there again doing the same thing. My curiosity was answered when I reached the last hairpin. He was standing by a radio car. The person inside shouted ‘bravo’. I was impressed that they kept a check on shaky cyclists on the climb. At the top there are six souvineer shops in a line, all selling the same things. Having a close look I saw that the goods weren’t tacky. I bought a cowbell for 21,000 lire (£7) with Stelvio 2758m painted on. It’s now got pride of place hanging on the hearth bricks at home. Ruth said when I got home that there’s no cows to be seen roaming around the Stelvio at that height so why buy a bell - too true! You can buy postcards and get them rubber stamped at any of the shops just to prove that you made it up there - unless you go by coach or car then you have no rights to buy one!
On the Stelvio a lot is made of a famous Italian cyclist called Fausto Coppi. He has a monument at the top, on the south side of the road - a sort of cyclist shrine that some Italians make a mecca for judging by the cycle shoe footprints in the snow on the steps up to it.
I stopped at Hotel Genziana, which put me back at 135,000 lire (£47.25) for dinner, bed and breakfast. I remember stopping here last time I came up the pass last year. I phoned Ruth from the hotel to gloat at my achievement. I enjoyed a 3 course meal -spaghetti followed by a pasta dish for main course with a red wine, ½ litre carafe -later I read a lot, planned tomorrow’s hopeful climb of the Gavia Pass and watched TV and went to sleep at midnight.
Thursday 24th June 1999 Stelvio to Breno
Had plenty to eat for breakfast, asked permission to take food away. I thought this wouldn’t be a problem as they favour the cyclists up here! Sure enough I was told I could take with me whatever I could carry - so I did! Breakfast cake, loads of fruit, and a couple of rolls for lunch, yoghurts and jams. I was made! The only thing I couldn’t get was liquid but later in Bormio I filled up my bottles with fresh orange juice. I went for a walk first. At 09.00 I clambered up to the stone building that looks over the huddle of buildings on the summit. This is called Dreisprechenhutte to the north of the road. The grey stone building is the actual border of Italy and Switzerland, and until 1918 it was the point where Austria met these borders too when Sud Tirol was Austrian - hence the name. It’s still the geographical meeting point of the three languages. (The third being Romansch in Swiss Grisons / Graubunden / Grey league canton. There’s fantastic views around but peaks to the north and south are higher - the Forcola / Furkel in Switzerland and the Cristallo in Italy. Stupendous views down the pass in both directions but especially to the east down to Trafoi where you can count 30 of the hairpins before the road disappears into the pine forest. The view the other way, towards Bormio is restricted after the Umbrial road because of the plateau below that. The road eventually descends by a long series of short hairpins then after the road for Switzerland comes a straight section followed by a series of hairpins before reaching a straight section through avalanche shelters then a shorter series of hairpins to reach the Val Breglia above Bormio. The descent from this high valley down to the town is good for views towards the Gavia Pass. The town nestles in the valley between the two passes. Just above Bormio is a turn off to the right for Livigno and Switzerland. This has been my route on three trips before in years gone by in the opposite direction and up to the Stelvio from Switzerland. This turning leads to another fantastic playground explored last year from the opposite direction. Had a look around Bormio. It’s got an interesting cobbled square and a church with an ornate clock tower but not a scratch on the one at Spondigna yesterday. This one is much simpler, more natural and definitely Italian. I asked at the tourist office in the town if the road up to the Gavia Pass was asphalt surface or rough stone. I could make it to the top if it was smooth even though the other side might be stony, as I found out last year when I had to turn back on attempting the climb up from the south side. I was so pleased to find out that it was now surfaced all the way on both sides. He took me out and pointed to the road outside, as I couldn’t understand his Italian. Last year I cycled 5 km up the pass from Ponte di Legno below the Tonale Pass to find that the stones were too large for my tyres to ride on. After filling my bottles up with orange juice from a small supermarket I started off with a lot of excitement up the north side of the GAVIA PASS. I was now on my way heading for my great ambition to be at the top of Italy’s second highest road summit. The climb starts right away at Uzza. It was so hot a drink from the bottle was needed then I was off again to S. Nicola then through a very picturesque wooded route following the Frodolfo stream to S. Caterina where the easy route up the Valfurva ends abruptly after 660 metres up from Bormio. A couple of coffees at a pub together with my breakfast rolls, jam and some fruit then I was full of energy for the steep 10 hairpins above the village for the 13 km (8 miles) to the GAVIA ROAD SUMMIT. I was passed by a few other cyclists but they weren’t carrying any weight. Next year should I travel with just a toothbrush and a credit card - and smell like a tramp on the airplane home? It was still quite a climb on the newly surfaced road, (1998/9) with a couple of rests in-between. At Rifuge Berni - not a Berni eating house- I stopped to take a photo of the First World War memorial with the Italian Eagle on the top. From there it was easier up to the summit. The Rifuge Berni is the first building since the 8th hairpin above S. Caterina. The first thing I saw at the Gavia road summit was the lake to the east of the road. I took a photo by the snowdrift opposite then on to the end of the lake, around the corner to the top of the pass. A personal achievement had been reached and I was elated. I stayed at the top of the pass for about an hour. I had a lemon tea and a clear liqueur (grappe) to celebrate. I got a biker to take my photo next to the summit marker then took plenty of photos of the area around the summit, and of the valley down to Ponte di Legno. I didn’t realise just how far it was down to S. Appolonia where I turned back from last year. If I had realised then just how far then there was no way I could have ridden up the gravel track. There are great views down the valley from the top. The Giro D’ ltalia had been up here, maybe earlier this year - the evidence was painted all over the road in many places, especially at the steeper climbs up from this side. Panini was there, Veronque and so on. At one point there was a very large artwork of an elephant riding a bike in very large detail - I almost fell off! There are spectacular views down the hazy, sunlit valley to S. Appolonia. When I reached the highlight - joining up at my retreat point of last June, much praise and thanks! From here quickly down to Ponte di Legno with the crazy uphill past the town, which I should have avoided by turning right through the place. Decided against going up the Tonale Pass to head for Trento and the passes around there and down to Verona that way. I continued on to Edole, a long downhill and caught a train from here to Breno. I wanted to use my free pass but embarrassed to find out that this was a private railway - at least the train was - also I wasn’t supposed to put a bike on it. “Mi scusi, Inglisi”/“Excuse me but I’m English!” The conductor let me off, I paid 4400 lire (£ 1.50) single to Breno and the bike went free but I had to move it further along the train and lie it on the floor in the vestibule. I arrived at 7.30 pm and found the only hotel along the main road, the Albergo Giardino. Had a really good a la carte meal in the restaurant at a fixed price. The man at the reception helped me with tomorrow’s route from Croce Domini road summit across the ridge of three other passes on the high road that led to Brescia. He told me that the road was rideable but after the Croce Domini it was a rough surface. There was no way of finding out how rough but he did say that the surface had been levelled except for the first kilometre from Croce Domini - perhaps to deter motorists. I decided to try it the following day, having already been up the Croce Domini in June 98, but that time I rode down to Bagolino and Lago d’ Idro. Tomorrow the plans were to turn east at the lowest pass after Bala and to go to Lago d’ldro for the other three passes on the private roads leading to Lago di’Garda (Lake Garda) at Gardone Riviera, on to Sega and back to Verona.
I had the pleasure of a bath tonight after so many hotels with only showers. I had asked for con bagno and got it at no extra charge, after a bit of TV and sorting out of the bags I went sleep at 1.00 am
Friday 25th June 1999 Breno to Venice
At breakfast I filled my flasks with orange juice, took plenty of yoghurts and fruit with me and set off along the main road at 09.00 immediately up the CROCE DOMINI. I was hoping to get to the top before the heat of the day. I came up here last year and remember the route well; first the road climbs out of the valley, past the castle of Breno, standing on a small isolated hill to the south, left of the hairpins at the beginning of the pass. From here the road goes all the way down again to a place called Bienno. It would have been better to strike south along the main road from Breno to Deirzo then along this valley heading east and onto the Croce Domini Pass All the first ascent from Breno was for nothing! Through Bienno, at the commencement of the climb again, there was a load of coaches with old people getting out and walking to a shrine. Nearby is a miniature village between houses at the start of the real climb as the pass really begins at this point. The first part of the climb after Biennois is through very pleasant green countryside overlooking the valley below but all the time the road goes up as it winds steadily up the hillside gradually away from the valley. The road is also narrow at this point as it ascends through lush farmlands, where every other field is full of wild flowers, buzzing insects and butterflies. You know this can’t last and it’s not long before the scenery begins to get wilder at Degna where there’s a waterfall. After the turning coming in from Astrio, which is the really steep way up from Breno, the road twists and climbs some more. Before Degna is a pleasant and very simple restaurant, only a few tables on a sunny patio on the left hand side of the road, but good food. I stopped there in June 98 on a warmer day than this. It wasn’t open yet (only 10.00 am). After Degna the way becomes really steep after a series of hairpins and it’s a really welcome sight to see another restaurant on the right after a long climb up through the woods. This is at Fonte Minerale di Salice with a veranda overlooking the valley where I came up. Magnum Ice here, in my rush to get to the top, toilets are right by the entrance door which is very useful if not buying anything! Last year I had a long stop here, eating a spaghetti Bolognese. A little further along from this is another restaurant on the left. After this the road curves to the left and leaves the village, past some farms on both sides and a new church building just below the road on the right. I rode with an Italian cyclist for a short way but as language was difficult and he was travelling light, he soon rushed on ahead. I met him again later. As I was nearing the top he came hurtling towards me and braked hard just in front. ‘Fini’ he said, I was doing the best I could to pedal on, the last thing I needed was someone causing me to brake! The road narrowed after Fonte Minerale di Salice and there was plenty more climbing through pinewoods to reach the cascade where the road twists around to negotiate the rocks. The torrent was worth a stop to take in, this was the last gasp of the climbing of this pass. A couple more hairpins where my Italian friend narrowly avoided me as he dived down the pass, then an avalanche shelter and into an open clearing above the tree line. I was now on the barren topcoat of the pass, devoid of trees. It is only a short way along now, experiencing the only gentle slope of the pass, the only breather possible. The road was still up but it was now an easy push to the top. Over the bush land to the biker’s pub at the top, this can only be seen from the last few hundred metres. In the pub there are two long tables, one occupied by Austrian bikers, the other by Italian. It seemed like World War One was really forgotten as they used to fight one another around these passes - now they drink together. I was the lone cyclist who ordered a ‘citron thÉ’ but what I should have said was ‘tuh’ and I would have been understood right away - stick to English next time - so I asked about the surface of the road across the ridge toward Brescia. I was told much the same as the receptionist told me at the hotel in Breno - rough at first but generally level gradient and easier surface after the first gentle climb for a kilometre from Croce Domini, a rough stony track then a short climb to the top of the BALA PASS. It is dusty but scenic. I could see the enormous military defence structure ahead, at Goletto d Crocette. This is a very large dish and a huge building next to it perched on the highest point of the mountain, facing west. I was told back at the hotel that this was part of NATO defence system during the Cold War, and it’s still operating today checking on Russia.
From Croce Domini I headed south along a very rough and uneven track that went up for 1 km to the next km marker then it is more or less level across a less stony but still dusty track. It was a short, steep rise to the Bala Pass, only about 1 km up on a tarmac surface for the uphill bit only. How thoughtful of the Italians, just for the cyclists perhaps? Three bends and I was at the top, followed by a dip then another short climb - it’s a sort of double pass road summit, also shown on the map as this. From the top I could see the defence system in one direction and looking back the view was down to Croce Domini and where I came from. A little bit further to the end of the dusty track until I reached the tarmac road that veers of to the left and up to the defence system. The road to Brescia from this point was now a tarmac surface too, so much better. Heading south from here the road was soon enveloped in a thick mist as I rounded the corner before the drop down to PASSO DI MINERVA. It became so thick that it was impossible to see more than a few yards in front. This was probably a good view from here down the mountain toward Brescia but it was left to my imagination. It was hard enough seeing the road immediately in front, and I didn’t dare take the descent too fast. I was riding blind for a few miles until the road dropped below the clouds just above the Maniva Pass. A school group was exploring the rocks that lined the roadside up here. They were picking up and examining pieces, probably on a geology expedition. Two buildings mark THE MINERVA PASS, one was only a ruin but it marks the highest point of the pass on the main road. I took a photo of this. Just a short distance further down was a left turn, this was the road leading over to Lago d’ldro. A short distance up here is another building, a hotel and restaurant. I didn’t take the road as I was getting tired now after the ride up the Croce Domini and the Bala track, decided that this planned route could wait for another year. It was time to say goodbye to the mountains now as I’ve had my fill. I needed to do something more relaxing for the weekend before going back to work! My original itinerary was to take this road, climb steadily across the side of the mountain to Passo d’Ere then drop down the other side to Lago d’ldro and on to passes Tremalzo and Nota on the private roads, eventually to Gardone Riviera but I’ll leave it for another year as all the passes left to be explored are conveniently located in a more condensed area after this tour.
It should be easily manageable to complete in one tour some future year. Next year, 2000, I hope to be able to explore the highest passes of the French Alps while I have youth and energy. (I write this at 48) From Maniva Pass it is a long sweep down away from the Alps to Brescia, through ever changing scenery - barren rocks to pine trees to grassy meadows and finally to more humid conditions as I approached Brescia. From mountain top to a warm valley that reeked with benzine on the approach road into the city. The road from the mountain is very steep and winding passing through Collio. The village can be seen from a long way above. It’s a bit difficult to find the road through the village as it does a couple of sharp turns past the houses. After the village the descent is through pine forest leading to greener scenery towards Bovegno. I stopped here by the side of the road and ate my john West Italian pasta and oatcakes. I couldn’t take English food back home with me! More gentle scenery from here and aware that the weather was warmer the lower I got. I hadn’t experienced this climate since leaving Verona and it made a pleasant change to enjoy some better weather, especially after the experience around the Minerva Pass. I had a last choice to take a road east to Salo and Lake Garda but decided to call an end to the cycling when I reached Brescia. The main road became increasingly busy - a far cry from it’s beginning on the mountain. It’s only a gentle incline down to the city as I passed through Gardone Valtrompia to Concesio where it was diesel and petrol fumes all the way to Brescia. Followed the signs for the railway station, overshot and asked the way. I bought a ticket for my bike and had a take away pizza on the station. I queued up for ages to check train times in and out of Venice for Sunday but gave up in the end. One disgruntled Italian woman was waving her arms about and shouting at the very patient clerk behind the information window. Everybody was becoming tired of her antics and I couldn’t wait any longer. I caught a train at 19.11 to Venice SL, arriving at 21.22. The bike was allowed on the train, travelling via Desenzano, Verona, Padua and Mestre to Venice. I needed to know if the 10.03 from Venice was running on Sunday, and arriving in Verona at 11.50. If so this would suit me fine for riding from Verona to the airport at Villafranca. I would find this out at Venice tomorrow. When I arrived in Venice the station hotel booking office was still open so had my hotel arranged for a two-night stay. I would enjoy a day’s sightseeing around Venice on Saturday. On the way to the hotel an American couple asked me inquisitively if was cycling around the city! I booked in at Hotel Dolomiti for 100,000 lire per night (£35), which was near to the station. After a shower and change I went for a wander towards St Mark’s Square, stopping for a bratwurst and beer from the first canal bridge along this walk from the station. It was too late for a sit down meal but I enjoyed the walk to St Mark’s square before calling it a day. The cafe bands were in full flow even at midnight around the square.
Saturday 26th June 1999 Venice, Murano, Burano,Torcello
Enough of cycling, I’ll take to the boat today. At 2.00 pm I took a trip to the three islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello in the Venice Lagoon, to the north. It was an interesting trip for 30,000 lire (£10). Starting from the waterfront at St Mark’s Square and heading north, around the back of the city to Murano, the only uninteresting part was when the boat landed for half an hour and the party was processed through the glass blowing demonstration. The party was herded up steps afterwards to the factory shop where the systematic prizing of money to purchase glass souvineers that you don’t really want, but you must buy as you might not pass this way again. Had a cursory glance, didn’t buy anything - far too expensive. I tried to find a way out of the factory to have a quick look at the houses and canals but there was no way through, doors locked! I waited, along with others, at the jetty. Found a chair to soak up the sun for a few minutes before the main party came back. The second leg of the cruise was more interesting. The boat plowed along the stretch of water to Burano, passing Marco Polo (Venice) airport, seen in the distance. We had half an hour in Burano, landing at a jetty near the town canals so had ample time to wander and take it all in. The lady guide from the boat took us straight to a lace making factory but most of us were wise to this now and veered off from the main group to wander the canals, view the colourful houses huddled along the canal sides that by local law must always be painted in the same colours. The church tower overlooking the main piazza has a very noticeable lean to the south - the gravity of Venice perhaps? I took plenty of photos and also of the houses and canals. I bought a book of the Lagoon Islands for 10,000 lire (£3.50) to remember the day by. Also bought a couple of beers for the boat trip. I had a good wander along the two canals; a wooden bridge goes over the point where they meet. I made my way back to the boat with a minute to spare then panicked - couldn’t see my boat! I was looking in the wrong place. Asked another boatman who pointed toward my boat further along the sea wall. I just made it, a good thing they counted the numbers before departure. The third leg of the journey was a short crossing over to Torcello. First across the open lagoon then into a narrow channel of deep water, marked by wooden posts in the water to guide the boats along to the island. The channel does a partial circuit to reach the landing stage in front of the imposing church tower on Torcello. This island was the most interesting of the three, and the most natural. I didn’t go into the church, as there were plenty of other sites to see. To go in it costs 5000 lire, only 3000 lire if you show your boat ticket. I wanted to see the island, besides I can see all that’s in the church by reading the guide book bought earlier. I wandered along the path to the bridge and canal at the island’s only restaurant and saw a motor launch with bride and groom about to take off after having their reception at the restaurant - what an ideal place! They went from lunch to launch. The wedding party was waving them off from the front of the trattoria. From here it was back the way I came. I spied a stall where an old lady was selling lace, wouldn’t normally take a second glance at lace but I did notice a white and red tablecloth hanging there that I could just imagine on our table at home, it was the right size and shape of our table with diagonal cut offs at where the corners should have been. I thought it was a bargain at 15,000 lire (£7.50). The last time I bought a tablecloth was in much the same way in Segovia, Spain, some years ago on a trip to Lisbon. The lady told me it was Burano lace so I didn’t need to go to the lace shop there and pay an extortionate amount. A little further along, in front of the church entrance, I saw another stall. This one got my attention as it was selling Murano glass much cheaper than in Murano! I bought five glass sweets at 2000 lire each (£0.75). They now have pride of place on our hearth at home. I handed my camera to a girl taking photos nearby and asked her to take a photo of me sitting on a stone chair, reputed to have been Atilla the Hun’s throne - at least that’s what the Italians tell the tourists. Thanks hun! The girl told me I’d be married within a year. Told her that I was enjoying 15 years of married bliss already and thank you for your offer! Back to the boat, it was non-stop back to Venice, passing between Burano and Mezzorbo along a narrow channel and back in Venice at 6.00 pm. I bought a bag earlier on today to carry what I needed for the day - just as well I did for the problems encountered at the airport the next day. I had a good look round Venice before I went on today’s trip, meandering back and to and getting confused along passages between Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square. Coffee at MacDonald’s, always cheap and hot then headed for the waterfront and the trip on the boat. Later at 6.00pm strolled back along the streets almost to the station where there was a supermarket on the right, along Rio Terra Maddalena, I had just enough time before the shop closed. From here back to the hotel. The room wasn’t ready as it had been hired out for the day - was told it was for people travelling by train tonight, they needed to sleep during the day. Thought it strange. If I were in Venice I certainly wouldn’t want to sleep the day. Had a good look around the hotel for funny business, nothing going on. Had a wander outside while I waited for my room to be prepared, didn’t see any boards or shutters on any of the buildings -so perhaps people really DO sleep during the day.
I disgorged my acquisitions in the hotel room, had a shower and changed. Later I was out on the streets after dark looking for a really good pizzeria for my last evening meal in Italy (violins play slowly and sadly) I found a good place to the left before the first canal bridge from the station, sitting outside listening to the boats and the rippling water. Had a capricossa pizza and half a litre of red wine followed by tiramasu. Later I had a midnight walk, past the Rialto to St Mark’s Square. Listened to the classical music by the groups playing at the pavement cafes around the piazza. Some are good at acting as well as playing brilliant music! This would have been a very good time to have a girl on my arm! (Preferably Ruth) After a pensive meander along the waterfront and around St Mark’s Square made my way back along the city walkways, now a lot quieter, back to the hotel at 1.00am and slept well.
Sunday 27th June 1999 Homeward bound
Up at 9.00, the usual for breakfast plus a load of extra for lunch and a fill of my cycle flasks from the drinks dispensers. I had a lot of weight to carry to the station this morning and was so glad I only had a short way to go to the station. Took the bags to the top of the steps then back for the bike. Walked the full length of the platform for the luggage van at the front of the train, loaded the bike and the bags in the first coach. As there was nobody down this end yet and it was a long train, I wandered back to the front of the station to have a last look at the waterfront and the gondolas then back onto the train. I noticed that the train in the next platform had come in from St Petersburg and it had an interesting arrangement of name boards on the coaches as it had been made up from many train converging connections. There were coaches from Belgrade, Bucharest, Moscow and Warsaw. My train left at 10.03 and arrived in Verona at 11.50.
I had plenty of time in Verona to have a last look around the city before riding to the airport on the Mantova road. I didn’t feel too sad as it started to rain again as I neared the airport. I flagged down an Italian cyclist coming the other way and asked the way to the airport, as the airport signs would have led me on to the autostrada. I didn’t want a repeat of last year’s disaster. He told me to carry on along the road we were on and take another turning to the right at the next traffic lights. I got there with plenty of time to spare. When I got there I realised how I had gone wrong when I left the airport on my first day. The road I came back on was the correct way to Verona but I had followed the Verona signs, which had led me on to the autostrada. I should have taken the route signposted to the village on the main road that I had just passed through. Finished off the remainder of the food from my bags, removed the pedals and turned the bars ready for the flight, rearranged my panniers so that one was heavy with all the non essential stuff for the journey home. The other one was to be my hand luggage. Of course it didn’t work out this way, that’s far too easy. At the check in I had plenty of trouble, as they wouldn’t accept my bike on the flight. It was just my bad fortune to be ‘served’ by a bolshy check in girl who was feeling hassled and had a downer on bicycles! ...and I thought all Italians loved a cyclist! For her opening gambit she said this was a vehicle, not luggage! I informed her that I had pre booked my flights in England and ensured that all the connections would take my bike. I had travelled from Manchester to Gatwick, connecting with the Gatwick to Verona flight and on both flights my bike was accepted with no fuss. She told me that bikes were not allowed on this flight. I assured her that they were as I had already checked this with British Airways through my travel agent before leaving England. The holds on all flights were large enough to take bicycles and other abnormal luggage on these routes. She finally conceded but then insisted that I box the bike! Informed her that I had no box with me, as B.A. did not advise this was essential on the outward flights. There was some delay - and a shifting agitation of the long queue now forming behind me - then she went away and came back with two service staff armed with large yellow fluorescent bags and rolls of yellow tape. I had already experienced my share of a load of red tape. The bike was smothered with the bags and made a pretty sight as I wheeled it to the large load check in and said goodbye to it as I let the tyres down. It was an unbecoming end for it’s last few yards in Italy after a glorious achievement in the Alps. The check in girl then took a look at my bags; “You can’t take them on the plane!” “What!” “Let me weigh them… one’s too heavy.” So I balanced the bags and used my black bag that I’d bought in Venice for what I needed to take for the flight home. Let me out of Italy! I was so glad to eventually get processed through the customs. There was no problem here. I checked at Gatwick later just to make sure that the bike would be loaded on to the Manchester flight. I was assured that as a matter of course all luggage for ongoing flights would be loaded. The pilot informed everybody on the plane that the we would be late leaving as the luggage hadn’t been loaded yet and that he would be lodging a complaint with the airport authorities....nagging doubts about my bike resurfaced! I had rang Ruth from Gatwick before I boarded the plane to assure her that I would be home on time - now I knew that wasn’t quite true! When I arrived at Manchester I collected my bags and was still waiting for my bike to appear. I was the last one waiting in the baggage area. I was told there was nothing more to come off that flight! My bike was still in Gatwick. They told me that there was an industrial dispute by the baggage handlers at Gatwick. The flight departure had to be rushed for the flight to make its allotted runway slot, so that’s why my bike was missed. The plane was half an hour late leaving Gatwick and I was hanging about in Manchester for another half an hour waiting for my bike then filling in a non receipt of luggage form at the desk. This was not a relaxing end to a glorious trip. I was assured that my bike would arrive from Gatwick the following day and it would be delivered to the house that day. I suppose the bike deserved an extra day’s holiday around Gatwick. I was jealous. It seemed strange to be back after all those days on my lonesome, but I had had enough and was glad to be back. I was a little disappointed that I didn’t complete my entire planned route but there’s always another year. I should complete the remaining Italian passes of Lombardy I Veneto in one trip as they are in a compact area between Verona, Belluno and the Dolomites.