Wednesday 17th June 2009 Holmes Chapel to Faro, Portugal
Thursday 18th June 2009 Faro to Monsanto and Marvão
I had nowhere to stay so had to settle for a 4 star hotel at €80 but slept very well for a long ride the following morning at 08.00. I ate across the road at a pizzeria and had spaghetti carbonara and salad with pineapple dessert for 11.00€. I drank water as I didn’t want a headache from alcohol – the weather was too warm and sat by the door. I slept very well that night.
Saturday 20th June Sintra to Santana de Serra, north east of Monchique
I couldn’t find anywhere to sleep the following night so slept on the mountainside near a small village. From the hotel in Sintra I biked steeply down to the new part of the town then took a left for Colares then took a right and steeply down to Cabo da Roca and met Wim Van Els cycling up from there with another Dutchman who was living and working in Lisbon he decided to split and I rode with Wim up to Alto de Sintra, BIG number 515. He had a Garmin sat-nav for direction – the girl’s voice told him where to turn but as he knew it wouldn’t work under trees and it was wrong with the direction as we started to descend into Sintra, 2 kilometres down. We knew then that the road we had passed on the right before the descent was the correct road up to the palace and Alto de Sintra. It was steep cobbles on the way up. Later in Sintra we had orange juices at a bar before the parting of the ways. I started off south through Lisbon and met up with Spanish cyclists who allowed me to drive their van and bikes and mine over the Rio Tejo and through the busy city. It was good thing really as I would not have gotten over the bridge that spans the estuary – it’s a motorway. I stayed with them the following day also. Together we ride the Arrábida, leaving the van just short of the bottom of the pass west of Setubal then ride anti-clockwise up the mountain. It would have been better to have tackled it clockwise as I found out when I reached the coast on the other side of the mountain as it’s a one way system and I was going against the flow. If I was driving it would have been impossible to get through but even cycling I was jostling with the cars and crowds of people. Many of them complained as I tried to push past against the flow. Climbing the Arrábada was a hot ride – stehl as the Dutch call it – steep to the telecom masts where the road levels of a bit then a further four kilometres to the top. After the usual photos it was back down to the coast in two stages; the first section ends at a the small white convent overlooking the coast, the final section veers to the left as the continuation carries on for Aldeia. After the left turn to the coast there’s a road to the left for Porthino then a short climb up over the headland and down to coast again and reached the one way system and crowds of people coming and going from the beach. They were blocking the way much to the annoyance of drivers trying to get away and to top it all there was me squeezing through cars and crowds in the opposite direction. Here was one instance when it was a good thing I didn’t understand Spanish!
Back along to Setubal admiring all the bronzed bodies on the beaches along the way.
Rejoining the car we set off again along the avenue through the town and head south. We follow the IC1 road through Alcácer, Grândola and Ourique where we part company after me driving most of the way. I unload the bike and ride south late in the day heading further down the IC1 road to find somewhere to stay the night. I couldn’t find anywhere. I got as far as Santana de Serra and a farm track just south of the village and kipped down for the night in the open above the main road but far enough away from it to be able to sleep undisturbed. I had the sound of crickets for company, one farm vehicle – I don’t think the driver saw me or he may have stopped. There were dogs barking a short distance away, they may have heard me, but they soon quietened down and I was able to sleep in the warm night air.
Sunday 21st June 2009 Santana de Serra to Vila Real de Santo Antonio
This was longest day in more ways than one!
Waking up as soon as the birds stating twittering, I was on my way. At dawn I was out on the road heading south again and into the Algarve on the look out for somewhere to get some breakfast, hopefully at São Marcos da Serra but although a sizable place of white houses huddled on a hillside after crossing the Lisbon-Faro railway then steeply up, I couldn’t find a café – but then it was only 07.00. Through the narrow streets but back to the rail track again as the road west for Monchique branches off at that point before the village. I passed on through Alferce and a really scenic smooth road over the barren hillsides of Serra de Monchique. I arrived in Monchique at 09.00 and had a couple of coffees and a warm croissant before setting off on the ¾ hour climb to Fớia, BIG number 517. I was passed on the way by another English cyclist but don’t know what happened to him at the top, there’s no other way down. He asked if I was going all the way and was hoping he’d ride with me but he upped the pace and was well ahead. I took the usual photos and also at the large stone pillar that indicates the exact summit. There’s an army installation point here, Ministry of Defence. Other cyclists arrived and tried the café but it wasn’t open yet so they turned tail and went back down. I waited for the café to open at 10.00 and had ham and cheese on toast – tosta mista. Looking at postcards at the shop later I met an English couple from Bradford, now living in Holland. They were amazed at my exploits – well, I did have a little help from my friends! At this point I’ve now completed all of the Portuguese BIG’s on the European mainland, the remaining 7 these last few days. There’s still BIG’s on Cape Verde and Madeira but that may be possible some future year.
Back down to Monchique and south through pleasant countryside with a definite Mediterranean air about it then a left turn for Silvas recommended by the Bradford couple as it was worth a visit to see the whitewalled houses and village topped with a medieval castle. The road up to the castle is steep and cobbled but well worth the stopover to see the castle. I only viewed from the outside because of time constraint. There’s a café and gift shop by the entrance but all I bought was an ice cream. Back down again and on the outskirts of the town took a photo looking back at the castle across the Arade River on the road to Albafeira. On through Alcantarilha heading for the sea. This was my first look in at the coast but first impressions count and it was busy, loads of traffic and heavily built up high rise blocks although the area is clean. I rode along the coast then inland again through Almancil to Faro. It was early afternoon now and had made good time today starting at dawn. I passed Faro airport then as close to the coast as possible through Olhão and Tavira to reach Vila Real de Santo Antonio at 18.00 and the Spanish border. The road wasn’t too busy but it was a long hot ride in the heat of the day. I had one break along the way for a small beer and an ice cream at Altura, 8 kilometres from Vila Real. I followed a red surfaced cycleway the final few kilometres but then had a great difficulty finding accommodation on the narrow criss-cross cobbled streets. I eventually found a place, bike safely stored inside in the front room but a very basic small room, though it was clean – 30.00€. after a shower and change it was a ‘night out on the town’ and on the main square had soup followed by spaghetti Bolognese and Super Bock beer followed by two large Erdinger beer at an outside bar later. I phoned Ruth from an outside phone near the street café before the meal. With the beer at the outside bar I caught up with the travel diary and wrote 5 postcards. At 23.30 I found a post-box nearby then had some difficulty finding my way back to the B&B so needed help. To bed at midnight.
Monday 22nd June 2009 Vila Real de Santo Antonio (border) to Seville.
Leaving the small town house I had a coffee on the waterfront that separates Villa Real from the Spanish side and wrote a couple of postcards bought at a koisk opposite for the remaining two Portuguese stamps I had then posted them further along the road. I made my way for Spain at 10.00 heading for the border crossing thinking it was just a short ride inland for the river crossing. It turned out I had to bike north to Castro Marim to join a motorway type road for a large cantilever bridge that spans the Guadiana. Thinking I was on as motorway I asked another cyclist who told me it was acceptable to bike across. I had my heart in my mouth when I joined the fast traffic going over here then took a right as soon as I could on the other side and came into Ayamonte, my first bit of Spain on this holiday. I asked at a garage and was directed along to a second round-a-bout then take a left on to the N431 road that would take me through Lepe, Cartaya and Bellavista into Huelva. It was a long, hot ride and longed to get back to higher ground inland but that would follow tomorrow. This was the hottest I had experienced on any bike trip and was in excess of 40°C. I stopped at just about every garage along the way for an ice cream or ice-cold coke for energy. Lepe was a bit of a sprawl on the way and the largest place en-route. Cartaye nearby, a bit further on is smaller but had a stop here before taking a right 8km further for Bellavista and one last garage before passing over the long man-made causeway into Huelva.
I asked at a garage for the railway station after sorting out bags opposite at Macdonalds. I was directed through the city to the other side and caught a train two hours later to Seville at 18.55. I bundled my bike on board but the conductor insisted I shift it to a position where it sat in the door- well so that passengers could pass. This was a 1.½ hour train journey through interesting countryside. Seville has a huge station and was a bit overwhelmed by it when I got there but saw an advert for a nearby hotel at a reasonable price – 33€ and with breakfast. At first I took the wrong direction from the station to the left and could only find a hotel that would charge me 85€. I made my way back to the station to get the direction again then found the hotel. It was 21.00 and too late to discover Seville so settled for a meal in the hotel of fish soup, cannelloni and wine – but wasn’t charged for the wine. All told that was 12.00€ - and so to bed at 23.00 to be ready for tomorrow’s adventure.
Tuesday 23rd June 2009 Seville to Gibraltar
What a day! Two BIG climbs done today and slept under the shadow of the mighty Rock of Gibraltar for the following day.
It was difficult negotiating the streets of Seville as there are no signs leading out of the town but later I caught site of small blue roadside signs but none for Utrera, my first section of today’s tour. Eventually I found the road A92 for Malaga so took that and hoped to find a road off to the right later that would lead me to Utrera. At Torrelengua I saw the first sign for Utrera along the A8100, previously A3201 on Michelin maps, and this took me across much quieter countryside. I was glad to be away from the busy main road linking the two cities Seville / Malaga. The quieter road is also far more scenic with wide fields of poppy and lavender as far as the eye can see across the flat plain. Eventually across to Utrera where I asked the way for Ronda at a Repsol garage just south of the town. At 58 kilometres south of the town I came to the turning for Algodonales and Zahara de la Sierra for my first BIG of the day, Puerto de las Palomas, BIG number 480 and my first Spanish BIG on the tour. It’s a long road up in semi-desert to the top. From the white houses huddled on the hill at Zahara and the deep blue water of Zahara Lake up to the hairpins on the barren landscape of the upper part of the pass, it was amazing to see how the road snakes its way up among the barren rocks to the gap of the pass then it was down steeply to Grazalema and its white houses closely packed along the valley leading back to the lake then north alongside the lake back to Zahara. This was a hot but extremely scenic round trip. The road along the lake is vey smooth and a pleasure to bike along – also just gentle ups and downs leading back to Zahara. From there it was back uphill to the main road and right for Ronda, slightly uphill most of the way. Once in Ronda I asked the way for la punta for the famous old bridge that spans the upper Rio Guadiaro that empties out into the Med north of Gibraltar. There’s a lot of souvenir shops and cafes along here. I had an ice coke and leant over the bridge for a better view – it made me dizzy. I didn’t realise it was such a long way down. I was glad I wasn’t drinking alcohol! Across from the bridge it’s a great view across the countryside outside of the town. From Ronda I took the road for San Pedro and the coast from a gate and tower to the south of the town. From here it’s a gradual ascent of the Alto de Cascajares, or Puerto del Madrono, BIG number 482 through the barren and rocky Serranía de Ronda. It isn’t an interesting pass and it’s a main road route – much traffic as at no point is it really steep but just a gradual incline negotiating the curves for the easiest route up the mountainside. White rock and shrub-land abound. Coming up the other side from the coast is more challenging – but I didn’t try it! It would be more interesting as there would be more to see on the way up, looking back down to the coast – but it’s also more green. From San Pedro there’s a choice of main road or motorway. The toll charge is 2.70€ but the main road is also busy along the coast. It’s amazing that that despised word ‘Gibraltar’ is never mentioned on road signs until La Linea is reached. The road signs heading south are all for Algeciras and Cadiz. Even when approaching Gibraltar there are signs for Estepona, San Roque and Soto Grande. Only at eight kilometres from Gibraltar there is a sign for La Linea. I was a bit confused coming off the main road but then the narrower slip road also becomes a wider busy road leading to La Linea and its car parks where plenty of money is made for those wanting to visit Gibraltar because the streets there are jam-packed enough without taking a car in. I bike across the airport after showing my passport at customs. I tried Hotel Bristol in the centre for a night’s stop but a bit steep at 63.00€. I found a better one for the second night at 33.00€, the Cannon Hotel.
Tonight I had a meal – steak and ale pie with chips and a Tennants beer on tap (GIB£6.95 +£2.50), turned out to be 13.50€ as I didn’t draw out any GIB sterling from the ATM. I should have known they used sterling here so there was a high exchange rate. I enjoyed the meal at the pub by the two cannons and spoke with a local at the bar, a construction worker who was saying that the Spanish had ‘lost it’. Villas, he said, were far too expensive, prices are out of all proportion to what they are really worth. Bed at midnight.
Wednesday 24th June 2009 Gibraltar
Gibraltar and The Rock. I decided to stay a second night, this time at the Cannon Hotel, a lot cheaper, despite the hotelier at the Bristol Hotel saying I wouldn’t find anywhere cheaper. I sat in the beer garden there drinking Guinness and Old English cider at £2.00 each and catching up with my diary. I rode up the Rock twice in the day. I was planning to do it all in one day at first and move on but looking at my plans for each day if I was careful I could complete this and get to Alicante with a day to spare as I was making good time so far. I make my way up Europa Road and Windmill Hill Road to Jews Gate and the Pillars of Hercules, pay my toll – 50p, then on up Queen’s Road and St Michael’s road to claim the summit, BIG number 481. The ride up took about ¾ of an hour from Main Street. I was watching the RAF flying old propeller planes over Gibraltar Harbour towards Algeciras and dropping parachutists into the sea near to the town. I continued on to the Spur Battery where the gun emplacement is situated facing south across the Straits of Gibraltar. An army cadet asked me if I was ‘Army’ I said no so he asked me to move on. I took a few photos and he was quite insistent, “Take your photos and go!” So I coasted down the hill and along St Michael’s Road heading for the cable car station and the second peak where all the tourists go – and the ever hopeful Barbary apes in search of tourist pickings – they almost picked my pannier bag! I had an ice-tea from the café and went to the top for the view. It was a pity but it wasn’t possible to get along the path to the Rock Gun at the north end of the Rock. The cable car building and café was the highest vantage point. From there I went down to Queen’s Road and tried to find a way to Rock Gun and took a right at Great Seige Tunnel but this ended very soon at a dilapidated building. Turning back I tried to get round the tunnel side but it wasn’t possible. From there down to the World War 2 tunnels and the Moorish Castle then Willis Road and Flat Bastion Road but this is now a cul-de-sac. Back down to the town and another try to see if it was possible to find another way up. I rode Europa Road to the south end of Gibraltar at Europa Point and saw the Shrine of Our Lady of Europe and the mosque of the Two Holy Custodians. I presume these are the two Pillars of Hercules at either side of the Strait of Gibraltar, the other being Jbel Musa in Morocco. From Europa Point I took a sneak peak around Europa Advance Road to the south east of the Rock and this led along the quietest stretch of coast to the Dudley Ward Tunnel. I remember some shooting going on at the beach here and I rode up a steep, nameless road into the restricted area at the south end of the Rock. This is the steepest section of road up the mountain apart from Windmill Hill and recommend it to any BIG climber! I passed through the restricted area that was populated with car wrecks and back out onto Windmill Hill Road half way up to the toll. I paid the toll again and enjoyed a couple of hours cycling around St Michael’s Road and Queen’s Road. Later I coasted down to the town and wandered along Main Road. I bought a little bottle of Pastis for £4.50 and settled down at Hotel Cannon for a while and went out in the evening and had a pasta for tea on the main square in Casements. Bed at 23.00
Thursday 25th June 2009 Gibraltar to Granada
This morning after breakfast at the Cannon Hotel shared with other English people I rode along to Casements then wandered along to North Mole and across the border point to Catalan Bay Road, a side road to the coast worth a few photos. From there I biked along to the other end of Dudley Ward Tunnel along Sir Herbert Miles Road and its hotels then back to the airport and made my way back across Winston Churchill Avenue into Spain at midday. It’s strange biking over a runway. The traffic police must work in conjunction with the airport control tower. It’s just a formality crossing over into Spain but I was warned about taking alcohol across. La Linea de la Concepción is full of parked traffic both along the streets and in numerous underground car parks. I made my way out along the quieter A383 road closer to the coast and joined the main road north of San Roque heading out for Marbella. I continued on along the busy A7 and N340 roads through Estepona, Marbella and Torremolinos and entered Málaga along the coastal drive. It had difficulty finding the next BIG just inland north east of Malaga and asked at a garage. I was told to take the sign for Montes de Málaga that would take me up the Puerto del Lino, BIG number 483 but it wasn’t easy to find and needed to go back to the harbour and start up the pass from there. It’s a scenic road that rises sharply from the coast then traverses the mountain in two spirals and the way up is quite barren but great views back down to the coast. A further 66 kilometres along the minor road hugging the coast from La Cala to Nerja and main road rejoined from there to Almuňécar for the final BIG of the day over to Granada. Mirador Cabra Montes, BIG number 485 is best approached from the south as it’s a long way down the north side to Granada. The climb really starts from Jete that soon reaches Otivar where the scenery really starts. This had a kick in it because the final three kilometres are really steep just when I thought I’d reached the top. The top is reached at Venta de la Marino and not the house on the left at the first top reached as it goes down from there to a stream then up a steep rocky incline to an unexciting summit that if coming from the other side would be something of a surprise as it would be unexpected. The way over the top and on to Granada is through open country with great views of Spain’s highest mountain, the Mulhacén with snow visible in patches. There’s a slight rise up to Puerto del Suspiro del Moro then the main road is joined coming in from Motril. It became progressively busier the nearer I approached Granada, visible from a long way off down in a valley before the Sierra Nevada. I spotted a sign indicating the Ibis Hotel at 53€ at junction 132 so left the main road here and soon found it. It was getting late and had no time to search for somewhere more quaint in the centre of the city. I ate at a Chinese restaurant just down the road from the hotel at 12€ and ‘eat as much as you like’ – and I did – I needed it! I phoned Ruth before going out for a meal and so to bed at 23.30.
Friday 26th June 2009 Granada for a circuit around the Mulhacén
Today I wanted to do a circuit of the Mulhacén and set off from the Ibis Hotel at 08.00 for a very long day taking in 4 BIG’s; 489,493,494 and 488. I was hoping to go up 488 yesterday but ran out of time. I was also hoping to climb BIG number 486 north of Granada today but was on the wrong road as I left the city – and the Ibis wasn’t helpful with directions. They pointed out the climb as being along the main road A92 but as I found out the following day it’s on the A4002 road, the Carrerda del Murcia (see sketch map).So today I followed the A92 and turned off this busy, wide road, very hill and mainly going down. I reached an indication for the Troglodyte village which I thought was what Ruth was referring to when she visited Granada with her Mum. She told me on the phone the following day though that it wasn’t – she was referring to the Albicain hill opposite the Alhambra in Granada. I found that easily enough the following day. Today was a long trip and was hoping to complete the circuit around the Mulhacén and back to Granada but it wasn’t to be. I stopped short at Orgiva having run out of daylight hours. I took photos of the Troglodyte village near Purullena / Gaudix then followed what I thought was the minor road leading south for La Calahorra but ended up on a steep rise on a narrow lane between Beas de Gaudix and Policar then a long level road to the sudden left turn over a stream and steeply up to Lugros. This was a mistake! All this climbing for nothing – well there were great views! I couldn’t find the way through the village and it’s narrow streets that radiate from the small square. One of the streets was ploughed up with a digger that was strategically situated across the whole road width. I turned back rather than try to find my way down to Gaudix on a back route. I had coffee and chocolate pain at a petrol station café at the junction of the main Almeria road then took this road for 20 kilometres to La Calahorra with its huge sandstone castle perched on the hill to the right, guarding the road forward to Puerto de la Ragua, BIG number 489, like a sentinel which I suppose was its original purpose. I followed a clearly marked brown sign that led me off to the right from the Almeria road. Most of the way up the pass is through woods but there were glimpses of the surrounding countryside as there are many open patches of heathland on the ascent. It took me 1.½ hours to get up there. At the map Michelin indication of 1700 metres there’s a viewpoint off to the right so took a breather here then continued on to the top. Up there is a wooden building to the left but no café. At the brown signs at the top I took the usual photos. The top itself is in a wooded area and more so seeing the descent on the other side but I was going back down the same way. I took to the Almeria road again and 32 kilometres further to Abla and took the sign to the left for Escúllar and began the climb up the Sierra de Baza, BIG number 493. In contrast to the previous pass this road is all within open country – and it was hot! At the top my cyclo-computer showed 2000 metres. On the way up the road ahead is deceiving looking at the hills around. It didn’t seem to be too high, even from the main road further back but I’ve found out many times before that hills in the foreground conceal higher ground beyond and there were some surprises with this one. It seemed four times that I was approaching the top of the road but the BIG list height showed it differently – it really must be 2000 metres after all. At 1900 metres the road drops tantalisingly – by a mere 100 metres – then rises 200 metres to reach the top. There’s no summit marker up there but there was a police car rumbled across the field track to the left towards the road. They mustn’t have had a share in the cost of the car as it couldn’t have done their suspension any good. It went down the pass on the other side before I could acknowledge them. They weren’t after me then. He did pause though to make sure I was putting my helmet on! Just as I reached the top the gathering clouds gave way to something more menacing – it was thundering and lightening and raining heavy in the valley I had come from and had to go back to, in the south east. I hoped I wasn’t going to get caught in it later. Fortunately I wasn’t and descended again with only slight rain – hardly enough to wet my rain jacket. Back down to the main road then a further 17 kilometres to the turning for the next BIG, the Caler Alto BIG number 494. The road indication was clearly marked with the brown sign for Caler Alto off to the left. First it was a long straight stretch on a lane for three kilometres heading north back to the same mountain ridge then a turn to the right just before the sign for Aulago then 22 kilometres from there to the top along open hills and very few trees top the top. At the road summit is a white observatory dome. It’s a very scenic road all the way to the top but again no summit market – just as well I forgot the BIG stickers I left at home on this trip! Back down again and a further 22 kilometres on the wide and busy main road and stopped to take a look at Mini Hollywood at the end of the road where it joins the Almera to Lorca road. I had a peer over the wooden fence boundary as there was no time to look around – I wanted to complete the circuit. Over the fence I could see the film props that were used in films such as A Fistful of Dollars, The Magnificent Seven and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. I took a few photos then headed south for Almeria and took the A7 road that was extremely busy, but at least it’s a dual carriageway – all the roads are today on this circuit. I travelled 60 kilometres along here until early in the evening then took a road to the right for Polopos then negotiated a tough road up, a crazy narrow and very steep road up that eventually led to a sharp right turn to Polopos then through a wooded area to Passo del Lino, BIG number 488. It’s not a pleasant pass summit. There’s a rough looking café up there facing the pass and many houses. I took a left turn at the top and started to descend. It looked at first as if the road was beginning to fall away back down to the coast and was beginning to get disheartened – had I come all this way for nothing? Not only that it was getting dark and would have to find somewhere to stay soon. It was obvious now I wouldn’t be able to reach Granada to complete the circuit. A bit further on and it was relieved to know it was obvious the road wasn’t going to go south to the coast but inland. The last chance for a way back down to the coast was a left turn that I passed for a deep plunge down to Rubite but I continued on through a gap in the hills followed by a sharp descent to join another road coming in from Puerto de la Ragua, joining at Las Alpujarras then left for a further descent in the dark to Orgiva. I found a hotel to stay that night and paid 35€ for a room and breakfast. I had a really good meal of macaroni and wine for 12€ and collapsed content at 12.30
Saturday 27th June 2009 Orgiva to Granada and Puerto de Lobo
A rest day for once – well partly. From Orgiva to Granada 52 kilometres and down the mountain and bright roads through Lanjarón to rejoin the main road over from Almuňécar and my route into Granada yesterday evening. I passed interesting mountain villages along the way and a very scenic route with plenty of cyclists on the descent. At Béznar I was on the main road and continued into Granada in the bowl of the wide valley. I found a hotel in Granada after a bit of searching. It’s right in the centre below the Alhambra for 48€ per night and I booked in for two nights. I had a look around Granada later in the morning and afternoon went out to find the Puerto de Lobo, BIG number 486. I asked at the hotel and he gave me an indication of the road but wasn’t certain. I was directed along the Passo de la Cartuja road and to take a right at traffic lights for Viznar. I found the road and took the right and came into the village of white houses after about 8 kilometres on a continual hot ride up. Once in the village I took a right then a sharp right again along a street called Puente del Fuenta and entered an area with signs for Parque Natural and eventually came to a main road on the left coming in from the A92 Almeria road north east. Here was the Puerto de Lobo. From here it was all downhill with glorious views of Granada along the A4002 for 7 kilometres and eventually to the Albecain where I diverted around the old cobbled streets and down to the main road again, the Carretera de Murcia and one of the gateways into the city at Puerta de Elvira. From there I passed along the narrow shopping area of Calle de Elvira to the Plaza Nueva and my hotel. I stayed in this area under the Alhambra for the rest of the day sunbathing. I wasn’t feeling well in the evening, probably too much sun. I had a lasagne in the Plaza Nueva below the Alhambra near the hotel. I asked at the hotel and they booked me a place for tomorrow to visit the Alhambra at 10.00. This evening though, caught up with the diary and went to sleep at midnight.
Sunday 28th June 2009 Granada, the Alhambra
For breakfast all I wanted was a roll with marmalade and plenty of coffee.
I had a full morning and early afternoon at the Alhambra. From the hotel I walked up the long avenue from Plaza Nueva, the Gomérez. It was very quiet along here at 08.30. I was allowed in at 09.00 for 10.00 and was exploring this wonderful place until 14.00. There was much to see and took many photos. Although there were plenty of people up there, especially later on, it’s a peaceful place and so much to see with the Moorish architecture and the colourful gardens and fountains. In the afternoon I sunbathed on the benches under the Alhambra at Plaza Nueva.
Monday 29th June 2009 Granada to Pico Valeta and on to Jaen
As well as the Alhambra yesterday, today was the highlight of my summer tour. It took me a full day to ride up the Pico Valeta. The climb starts from Cenes de la Vega then slightly down and under a road bridge, crossing the Rio Maitena then left and it’s up all the way from there. I started off at 09.30 but it took me until 13.30 to reach the summit, the highest road in Europe. That was four hours up and one hour to get back to Granada! The road is scenic all the way and worthy of a whole day to take it all in. Cycling from the warm valley with one stop at a café on the left at about a quarter of the way up for omelette and chips then continued along the wide, smooth surface road to reach the side road for Sierra Nevada or Pradollano and had another stop for an ice cream and orange juice and took in the view there. From that point the ski lifts start up the mountain and looking the other way Granada can be seen way down in the valley. (As Solly would say!) The ski resort was quiet but I can imagine it will be busy in the winter. There was hardly anything open and there were not many people here. I could have continued from here up a steeper road to join the road to the summit further along but decided to get back to the main road so that I would be sure of the way. I freewheeled back to the road junction for the next stage. There’s no indication for the Pico Valeta here. The only indication is for apartments and ski lifts but a bit further up after passing along a wooded section there’s a turn to the right and a simple signpost indicating ‘Valeta’. From here the road becomes barren and after a couple of miles I reached the final buildings and a kiosk café to the left and stopped for a while for an ice tea then past the final building, an army place where I passed by the raised pole barrier where the road becomes narrower. From here I could see where the road was going to end up as the peak of the Valeta seemed close but it’s still another 15 kilometres of twisting road to reach it. At this point I met up with three Spanish cyclists on mountain bikes, a father, his son and friend on their way over to Orgiva on a side road over to the right from near to the top of the Valeta. I biked with them to their turn off. I offered to take their photo as a group and after that we stayed together and took plenty of photos on the way up. It was great because I could pose for many shots on the way up! Between their sparse English and my very scant Spanish we communicated. We exchanged email addresses at their turn off and we promised to email the digital photos to each other. The peak of the Valeta loomed near but there was still a way to go. The final two kilometres of the road is a narrow, dusty track leading to the summit, a final bend to the right and a short section to the pole at the top at 3394 metres where I had to lift my bike. I stayed a while and took in the view and some photo clicking then turned tail for the descent. I stopped again at the kiosk where the buildings and the wider road begin and bought a beer there to celebrate. From there just a few stops to take photos but I was back down to Granada and the warm valley in an hour. I took the road north from Granada on the busy A44 to Jaen, 122 kilometres. I found a hotel eventually but it was a bit expensive.
Tuesday 30th June 2009 Jaen to Santiago de la Estada
I didn’t bother with breakfast, that can come later. I made my way out of the town and its busy one way streets then along open country for 14 km to the turn off to Mancha Real for my first climb of the day, El Almadén BIG number 484. The streets of this overgrown village are in straight routes and many are one-way so it’s hard to find the way through the other side to the start of the climb. When I reached there the road here was ploughed up as they were being relayed, I asked the way and was told of two possible routes, one to avoid the road works but I went for the direct route. The first kilometre is nothing but rubble to contend with and it was hard going up to the trees out of the village but soon the pot – holed tarmac road was reached and continued up through the trees and eventually into a clearing for most of the way to the top, marked by transmission masts and small white buildings.
Back down to Mancha Real and along the valley to Jódar. I met up with some fully laden cyclists from Scandanavia heading the other way and wondered how they could possibly enjoy cycling in 40°C heat with front and rear panniers and a tent. They weren’t young either. If anybody reads this, was it you I saw out that day, man and wife? I couldn’t find the road heading east from Jódar to Estaciôn de Quesada so continued on a bit to the north then a road across open country of low bushland and switchbacks from Estaciôn de Jódar to Quesada, right at a roundabout. Once through Quesada the end of the valley is reached and the climb of the Puerto de Tiscar, BIG number 490 begins. The road is smooth all the way up and a pleasure to ride. On the way up I passed some caves. These are called Cueva del Agra. At the top of the climb are some steps to the right so up here I went to take some photos of the road summit and the area around. As it’s such a smooth road I set my digital camera for movie selection and held it to my handlebars for the descent from the cool air to the crickets in the bushes further down, complete with commentary – I hope it works!
Back down through Quesada then first right for Cazorla. I had a great view of the town with its white houses from up above on the slow descent down the valley and took photos. From Cazorla down at first which is confusing but then up through Burenchel on the last BIG of the day, Las Polomas de Cazorla, BIG number 491. Through Burenchel there is a pole barrier at the start of the climb and a box for the attendant on the left. The pole was up so no problems today. From here it’s only a few kilometres to the top reached by easy zig-zags to the viewpoint at a stone hut on the left at the mirador – viewpoint. There are great views from here looking north over the Coto nacional de Cazorla and meanderings of the Rio Guadalquivir and the remainder of my journey for today. It’s wooded on the way up but there are breaks through the trees to look across the valley below. Over the other side and down to the river and a road junction. I asked a sleeping policeman (literally!), who woke startled from behind the wheel, how to get to Tranco as there are two roads to choose from at the bottom of the pass. He directed me to the left and this would take me along a scenic route following the Rio Guadalquivir and long lake through the de Cazorla Segura area to Tranco, finally reached by narrow road and traffic lights over a dam and past hydro- electric works and eventually to Caňada Morales in different country, more hilly, with views of the Yelmo mountain ahead. A left turn and steeply uphill on a wider road up through Hornos, white houses and narrow streets, where I tried for accommodation but there was nowhere. I had to contend with a very slow moving group of circus trucks and containers that eventually parked up for the night at the side of the road near La Platera. I continued on along the forest road and eventually, hours later at Santiago de la Espada and booked in at the only hotel there, had soup and chorizo sausage, eggs and potatoes. The place was cheap and I slept well – catching up with diary it was 01.00 before lights out.
Wednesday 1st July 2009 Santiago de la Estada to Gebas (Murcia)
Today the way was over two BIG’s to Gebas a few miles north of Alhama de Murcia and leaving Andalucia. It doesn’t look much on the map but the route goes from Santiago de la Estada south for the road up Sierra de la Sagra, a long and hilly climb through bushland and heat even in the morning. I was still in Andalucia, right on the boundary with Murcia and from the nature of this climb I could see Andalucia wasn’t going to pass with a whimper. It was steep enough up from Santiago to the road junction for La Losa. Once reached and following the road junction there is a drop down to a stream on the A7300 road then it’s up in open country all the way to the top of Alto de la Sagra, BIG number 492. It wasn’t so much the gradient of the climb but the heat that got at me. It’s not a continuous climb the whole way. The road summit is nothing fantastic. There are no buildings or transmitters or a road summit plate up there but over the edge there’s a great view down the valley on the other side and the road twisting like a snake to get down there in the heat haze. Coming up that side would have been gruelling as it’s steeper than the way I went up. I took the usual photos and saw silvery snakes by the side of the road basking in the sun. I continued on for Puebla de Don Fadrique and joined up with the main road coming up from Huéscar and away from the mountains for a few hours. I was now on a long road across the plains and into Murcia. I stopped at El Moral for ice cream and a drink and continued on to the turn-off for Mula. Past Caravaca the road suddenly turns into an autostrada and it’s busy but it’s not solely for use by motorists as there’s no other road heading for Murcia. From Pliego the road south climbs up the eastern edge of my next playground, the Sierra de Espuňa. It’s scenic along here among green fields for once. At Gebas I took a right at crossroads then down a deep ravine and up again among white rocks into another village of white houses, El Berro. From here a left then a right and a steady climb but then it drops again – so confusing. Eventually it rises but I took a right as it seemed to head up the mountain but only reached an outdoor pursuit complex – and went back down to the same road again! I took a right though and was on my way up the mountain and the road to the top of Cerro Espuna, BIG number 473. I biked along some way through the woods and reached a long series of tightly packed hairpins that took me well up towards the mountain. I could see the weather station globe clearly now, this marks the top. Looking at my altimeter the curves took me from 700 metre height to 1200 metres so I knew I was on the right road now! At the mirador I had a rest, a drink and a lie down on the stone bench in the sun then took a sharp right passing through some gates that I noted were closed at 18.00. it was only an hour to go and I’d still be up there then but to the left of the gates is a gap wide enough to wheel a bike through so onward and upward I went. It was further 4 kilometres to the globe and mostly under tree cover. The last section has two fairly long straight sections then the top is reached round a final bend to the left. The globe is within a military area and there is a notice alongside the road there not proceed further. Only a few metres to the top of the road though and no one around so I took the usual photos then did an about turn and back down to the gates, now locked. I squeezed the bike through and retraced my route down the hairpins but this time took the road to the right further down, into the valley then up again a short way then the final descent with a turning to the right for El Berro. From there down and up the ravine to Gebas and was about to pass through the village looking for somewhere to stay in Alhama but spotted a sign on a villa that reads ‘Rooms and breakfast 39€’. I should have twigged that the owners were English!
Through the gates and began to ask for a room in Spanish but it was obvious they were English. They had come to live here from Okehampton to escape the tax and have a more peaceful way of life. I had a large cold beer and was shown my room, an all wooden interior, very modern, airy and comfortable.
I asked for a meal but was told they had rest days on Wednesdays! A great pity. I made my way down to Alhama – a long way to go for a pizza! I found Café Tivoli and had a quarto staagione quesa – four cheese pizza – and a beer, total 5.50€. Back to Gebas later in the dark and had a couple of Kwak beers served with a wooden handle support to hold the long slender glasses. I chatted with an English couple from Bradford for the evening – his name’s Wayne. They’re also on holiday and have a villa here too, 8 minutes down the hill past the hotel swimming pool in the garden. The hotel here has a snooker table outside so played a while later. The whole area is secured by high red walls so they can leave a lot of stuff outside. I’ve taken their business card for future use – you never know, Ruth might like to come. I went to bed at midnight after catching up with the diary, having a read and sorting out my bags and planned tomorrow’s expedition.
Thursday 2nd July 2009 Gebas to Benidorm
The English ex-pats made a very good breakfast! I had toast, cheese, jams, coffee and orange juice. The man’s son, Tom is clever- I found out from Wayne last night that Tom speaks four languages so it’s no wonder the family can make a real go of it here with the accommodation. It was one of my cheapest accommodations on tour but one of the best. From Gebas it was down again to Alhama then along the busy main road and passed north of Murcia and Elche – I even passed Buenos Aires! I took the next road off and headed north for Villena. I became confused in Novelda to begin with and again later in Villena. They were both towns with very busy streets – shopping day! In Villena there’s a red castle on the hill overlooking the town. Eventually I got through the busy cuidad and spewed out on to the CV81 road for Ontinyent and headed for my next BIG, the Alto del Compello BIG number 470. I took the sign for Ontinyent Oest on the CV665 and headed for Vallada. I followed a smooth surface road past a quarry and over two river bridges spanning the valley below then an easy climb to the fire tower in the woods at the top. I presume this is the BIG but was expecting to find the Ermita de San Sebastian at the top but took some photos anyway. Over the other side I was looking out over the massive nature reserve of Muela de Cortes. I freewheeled back down the pass and took a road to the right at the foot of the climb near recycling bins and an indication for the Ermita. I had followed the sign for Moixent. This time I was biking up a pleasant narrow lane of heather and gorse rising steeply up to the Chapel of the San Sebastian Hermit. There are many twists and turns then one straight stretch for about 300 metres to the top, abruptly to the right on to the stony ridge with the chapel and view point ahead. It was closed when I was there and some renovation work was going on but nobody there when I was looking around. There are great views from the top and I took the usual photos. There are stone seats and tables on the east side. A track goes further up the mountain ridge but I couldn’t go much higher with the bike. I freewheeled back down to Ontinyent and headed south for Albaida and the main road for Alcoy. I got really confused here and was back tracking between Muro and Albaidia and roadworks were in full sway which didn’t help as there was dust everywhere in the heat. Workmen a plenty were busy making this road into a dual carriageway to join up with the same road south and north. Eventually I was down the hill to Alcoy. I was so thirsty and called in at Macdonalds to the right of the road and had a large coke, 2.10€. I pressed on south and hoped to pick up the CV70 road just south of the town for Benilloba and in line for the remaining two BIG’s of the tour leading over to Benidorm. I couldn’t find the road. I went a little further uphill out of the town and came to the CV785 road for Benifallim and on up here in open country to Benilloba. From here it was a short rise up to Benasau. It must mean something all these place names – including Benidorm the biggest all beginning with the same prefix. Maybe a Spaniard can answer that one? At Benasau I came across the turning and an indication for Port de Tudons, BIG number 472 and took this road, first downhill and into the pretty white- housed village of Alcoleja at the foot of the pass worthy of some photos. It was only about another two kilometres up from here to the top of the pass with a few hairpins to negotiate. There’s a road summit plate at the top for a change, they seem to be a rarity. It’s not possible to continue up the mountain to Sierra de Aitana to the left as the Spanish Military own the area and it’s well and truly gated off with high metal gates – so there’s no hope of making this BIG higher! At the top is a white globe that can’t be seen from the top but can only be viewed from the descent to Benidorm on the CV70 road.
I turned tail and coasted back down to Alcoleja and back up to Benasau and my ultimate pass of the holiday, the Puerto de Ares, BIG 471 and over the top from here to Benidorm.
It’s an easy climb up, no real steep sections but it wouldn’t be the case coming up from the coast. There’s no road summit marker at the top, surprise, surprise and it’s a dull pass and a pity to finish on a sour note. I’ll go so far as to say it was the most un-inspiring of the whole tour. I was in open country and rural, just a hump at the top at a bend in the road. Down I went from here to Benidorm and the attraction would be the climb to the top from the sea.
It’s a series of roundabouts a few miles from Benidorm on the descent to the coast and once there I tried to find accommodation before getting right into the city but there wasn’t anywhere to be had. I asked at one ideal place a few miles above the city with a great view but it was closed. The city stretches northwards inland as far as La Nucia. I stayed the night in an expensive hotel on the seafront. There was nowhere else to go- refusals everywhere. I went out for a meal at a street café and had burgers and chips with a couple of beers then back to the hotel and asleep before midnight.
Friday 3rd July Benidorm to Alicante (Torrellano)
An easy journey today for 42 kilometres along the coast from Benidorm to Alicante then to Torrellano, a further 10 kilometres where I stopped for two nights. I don’t reckon much of Benidorm. It’s one long street of tacky shops and fish & chip shops and Guinness bars, an English outpost. At the time work was going on all along the front replacing paving along the promenade so the beach is cut off except at intervals among the caging for access. The beach is good sand but the whole area is like a mini New York of high risers along the coast.
Moving on to Alicante I stopped off at Villajoyosa and saw the coloured houses there along the seafront and along the dried up riverbed near the road bridge. Originally all the houses were within town walls because of repeated attacks from those nasty Berbers invading from Morocco but when the attacks subsided the locals built houses in bright colours on the outside of the walls as a thumbs up to the decline of the Berber invasion in Spain.
From here along the coast and a quiet road indicated for El Campello to the left along the coast and the headland at Cap de l’Horte. I had an hour here on the beach and an ice cream and soaked up the sun now that my tour was coming to an end. From here I biked on to Alicante. My first and lasting impression was that Alicante is a better place to spend my remaining time than in Benidorm. I called at the airport 10 kilometres south of the city to get some information on hotels near the airport where I could base myself, and also to grab a road plan of the city and beaches in the area. The tourist information office at the airport recommended one that was 4 kilometres from the airport called the Acero in Torrellano. This is the largest hotel closest to the airport and a good centre for the local beaches at Urbanova, L’Altet and Los Arenales. I booked in for two nights and had a meal at the hotel – burger and chips with a beer for 9€ and it was really good. I went to bed at 23.00 exhausted and happy on my tour achievement.
Saturday 4th July 2009 Alicante
I asked at the hotel reception how to get to the local beaches then rode into Alicante. I sunbathed at Playa de la Albufereta on a free deckchair at a beach café with a beer, 3.50€. Later I continued along the coast and found many sheltered coves. It’s not just one long beach. I biked along to Los Arenales and had an hour or so there. Later on I discovered the delights of the swimming pool, steam bath and sauna in the hotel basement. I had a meal in the evening at the hotel restaurant again; burger, bacon, cheese and chips followed by profiterole cake and a beer for 16€. I caught up with the diary and was writing late because I had a lot to catch up on. The TV is hopeless, no English programmes except for Sky News. I rang Ruth at 23.00. She told me she had been to a ‘Winning Women’ conference with MCC this evening and the evening before had been along to Sharon’s 40th birthday party in Winsford. Her husband, Steve made all the food. I went to bed at 01.00 after all my writing and reading.
Sunday 5th July 2009 Alicante and return home
I can’t wait to get home! The sun is hot even in the morning at 36°C. I biked along to the airport to be sure of my flight details later then back to the hotel. I grabbed a bath towel from my room and biked out to L’Altet beach and had an hour there then on to Urbanova beach for another hour and back to the hotel. I enjoyed a cool beer from a local garage vending machine in Torrellano for a euro then back to the hotel for a swim, sauna and relax in the steam room followed by catching up with the diary. At that time it was still only 19.15. I wish I could have gone home earlier but at least it’s relaxing in the hotel garden with its palm trees and free beer from the tap. I made my way finally to the airport at 20.00 and dismantled the bike and bagged it for the journey home. The plane left on time and in Liverpool on time. It was raining in Liverpool. I rang Ruth and Mark answered to say she was on the way to the airport to collect me. This was great because I didn’t feel like cycling to Runcorn in the rain as we had pre-arranged when I set off on the first day. We got confused in Runcorn at 01.30 in the morning having taken a left off the main road after Runcorn Bridge. There was no one about that time of the morning and we were relying on the Cheshire A-Z maps to get through the maze of dark streets. We eventually did and continued on the M53 and M6 and back home at 02.30 – and I was at work in the morning! Fortunately I was still in Crewe, the work move to Manchester didn’t happen until August. Just as well as I was a bit lethargic the next day at work!