Crete October 2016
Friday 14th October 2016 Holmes Chapel to Heraklion
Took the direct train Holmes Chapel to Manchester Airport with the bike already bagged and carrying the rucksack. Flight EZY1937 departed at 16.00 on time and arrived in Heraklion, Crete at 22.10. I was given a room on the top floor of the hotel in what’s called ’Eagle’s Nest’ as the better accommodation wasn’t ready until tomorrow.
Saturday 15th October 2016 Amoudara, Heraklion to Giouhtas BIG 932
This morning I cycled into Heraklion and took a look at the Venetian Harbour then continued along the coast to look for the airport. I should have taken a left turn at the port but continued on uphill and inland to Arkalohri along the main road and back again. From there back down to the city and took a right for the airport at 12.30. Once there I rang Heiko who had just arrived with Irene, Julia and Angelika all from Amberg and colleagues at his place of work at the hospital. I bundled the bike into our Enterprise hire van for a trip back to our hotel. On the same flight was Andreas and Heiko’s boss, Wolfgang. Also on the trip was Art Oostra from Switzerland. Wim Van Els and Tineke were already at the same hotel where we were all staying but I hadn’t met them until later this afternoon, on the road up to Giouhtas as Art and Wim were on their way down. We met them near the aquaduct above Knossos. So all told there were ten of us on our adventure in Crete, however Tineke wasn't cycling. This afternoon the group were busy assembling their bikes in front of their white chalets in the hotel complex. Later we started out on our first cycle climb from Knossos inland from Heraklion to the top of Giouhtas. Heiko and Andreas chose to cycle from the hotel to the top of the first BIG (932) while Irene and I took the hire mini bus up to the car park for Knossos Palace and started from there. We left the hotel at 15.30 and started cycling from Knossos at 16.05, arriving at Giouhtas at 17.40. Actual distance measured is 17km. The bulk of the mountain can be seen most of the way from Knossos and on a clear day like today the cross and chapel crowning the top are clearly visible. Seen from Knossos the mountain has a human profile identified with Zeus. Underneath the mountain, so the ancient Cretans claimed, Zeus is buried. As the Greek gods are considered immortal this furnished the proof to the rest of Greece the assertion that all Cretans are liars – could have been the original basis of the reputation. Maybe also where Brits call people not to be trusted as ‘cretins’. On the way up are many vineyards and the traffic volume becomes thinner. About 2km up from Knossos on the right at a left hand bend is an unusual two-tiered aquaduct. It looks sort of Roman but it’s really only approx 200 years old, built during the year Egyptian rule in the mid 1800’s to provide Heraklion with water from the mountains. At the top the white chapel is reached from broad stone steps. The chapel stands at one side of a rough paved area and a structure with a huge metal cross on the other. We had a great view over the edge to the west, a sheer cliff down to the valley floor with large birds circling overhead. It’s a good road most of the way up, a bend to the right then 5km further with hairpins ending at a track. The final 100 metres is extremely steep on a short paved section and ends at the green sign indicating the top then the broad steps to the right that lead to the flat paved area. After admiring the view and obligatory photos we returned the same way however it was dusk then nearly dark when we reached Knossos at 18.30. I only had my prescription sunglasses and of course couldn’t drive with them on so relied on Irene to follow the road sign indications back to the hotel as I could only focus a short distance ahead and some anxious moments on the busy town centre roads as we passed through. Later it was meal all together in the restaurant at 19.30
Sunday 16th October 2016 Amoudara, Heraklion to Idean Andhron BIG 931
After breakfast we all set off at 09.15 after posing for a group photo at the hotel. We cycle from the hotel, off to the right then follow back roads past the ugly oil power plant that’s a real blot on the landscape. We by-pass Gazi and take the road west and inland and gradually up through Damasta to reach Anogia and a road junction for the left turn just before the town. I remember watching a TV documentary on Crete some time ago that described the antics that good Anogian people get up to. Most of the people there carry guns. It is no secret that Cretans own guns, especially in mountainous areas. Road signs are easy targets and you will see many of them that resemble Swiss cheese after some shooting practice. Cretans usually fire their guns at weddings and other celebrations. In Anogia especially so because of the Nazi atrocity committed against the townspeople there in 1944 when the whole village was razed to the ground and the people murdered or moved to other areas because the Cretans had murdered a high ranking German general. Even a few generations later the locals have dislike for Germans. I was partly joking but partly serious when I suggested to my German friends to pass through the area quickly on their way up to the mountain. The road continues on for a further 22km to the cave or 21km to Skinakas Observatory off this road further along before reaching the ridge for the downward route the Nida Plateau; now more barren and if this was summer it would have been unbearable. Current temperature however was 28 degrees as I slogged my up alone to the highest point and wished I’d brought something to eat. I had water but should have drunk more because I developed severe cramp in my left inner groin. I had to walk a while once I was able to. This helped to reduce the tension and push the muscle back but I lost time walking approx 4 km. I mounted up again as soon as I could and reached the top of the road marked by a single pole above the Nida Plateau and rang Heiko to say where I was. From here it was down the other side into the plateau where I could see the lone building and car park. This was the Nida Taverna and was surprised to find I wasn’t too far behind some of the others at 14.45 and met Irene as she was walking with the bike down along the rocky path down from the Ideon Cave. I walked up there; cycling on a road bike was out of the question. From the tavern it’s only 1.2km to the cave. I was disappointed to find it closed but could see the cave from the metal gated entrance. I read later that’s its not possible to go into the cave anyway as excavations were in progress. There’s a small rail line with trucks to remove the rubble. The Rough Guide Crete describes the place where in mythology Zeus was brought up and suckled by wild animals – maybe of the Anogian variety. Plato and Pythagoras visited the cave and cult offerings to Zeus were brought here from all over the Eastern Mediterranean. The only way in here now was to befriend a local archaeologist, or like us stand and stare at the black hole as you squint in the bright sunlight. I walked back down with the bike at 15.10 and had spag bol and a beer in the tavern with a long wait so was now far behind the others. At 16.00 I rode back along the Nida Plateau and started off up to that pole again that marks the top of the road with great views back down to the upper valley called Nida Plateau and past the observatory. On Saturday Heiko, Wolfgang and Andreas would climb this mountain from near the top of the road to a place called Skinakas and the observatory at 1750 metres height. I would like to have cycled but equally I wanted to enjoy some relaxing time catching up with reading and lazing on the beach and some swimming and besides I had an appointment with the hotel masseur! I freewheeled back down the mountain and other than an incident with a sheep crossing it was uneventful all the way back to the hotel at 18.15 via Heraklion and a supermarket for a bottle of red wine to sup quietly in the evening after the meal.
Distances: overall 48km (30 miles). After Gazi 3km to Tilisos then 18km to Gonies, then 12km to Anogia then 20km to the cave. 5 hours up and 2 hours down
Monday 17th October 2016 Amoudara, Heraklion to Diktaeon Andron BIG 934
After breakfast we drive east along the coast to Malia and start cycling at 11.00. We start as a group and I accompany Angelika, surprised as I thought she was one of the fitter faster cyclists. We reach the top of a plateau then downhill into an upper valley and the tourist village of Krasi at 12.00 ½ way to the top of Diktaeon Andron. We took a left into Krasi rather than the right turn for the main road that skirts the village. I was glad really because although touristic this is a pretty village. Krasi in English translates as ‘wine’ but really water is the attraction here as it’s a spa village. In the centre is an ancient enormous plane tree claimed to be 2000 years old and the largest in Europe with a circumference that can’t be encircled by a dozen men. The curative waters in the village are supposed to be very good for stomach complaints – really good if you had a bad moussaka the night before. Angelika is concerned we were lost (we were but I wouldn’t admit it) so I phoned Heiko for directions. He had come this way and told us to continue on through the village for a kilometre then take a left that emerges back on the main road. Sure enough we were back on the route to the top. We reached the windmills at the top of the col at 13.20, put on extra clothing for the short descent to the Lasithi Plateau. Is topped here for a while on the return trip but for now we descended to the upper valley that skirts the rim of the mountains to the right with the wide expanse of the plateau to the left and so many windmills along the way. Eventually we reached Psichro village along the rim of the Lassithi Plateau then took a right for a short distance up (500 metres) with a bend to the left to reach the tavern at the foot of Diktaeon Andron cave and reached the top at 14.00. I carried on up on the paved path a further 1.2km to reach the cave, a contender to Ideon Andron as the birthplace of Zeus. Irene, Julia and Andreas were on their way down as I reached the top. I didn’t want to pay the 6 Euros to explore the cave, besides there wasn’t really time. I took the usual photos at the entrance then took the bike back down. First though I asked if the mule walkers could carry me and the bike back down to the tavern. I knew what the answer would be to that. Back at the tavern at 14.50, a large beer for 4€ to celebrate then back down and on to the Lassithi Plateau at 15.00 and the short rise to the col and windmills where Angelika went on ahead and I cycled alone until I caught up with her again just before reaching Malia. I stopped at the windmills and also at the ‘Human Being Museum‘ part way down for photos then on to Krasi village at 15.15 and the short rise up following that then down all the way to Malia to join the others waiting at the vans. They had only been there for a short while. From there back to Heraklion in the vans and our meal at the hotel.
Tuesday 18th October 2016 Amoudara to Choura Sfakion for Akones, BIG 930
This morning was a long drive along the north coast west 96km to Vryses then south over the mountains to Hora Sfakion on the south coast. To Akones from Vryses distance is 25km, from Choura Sfakion it’s 22km. We parked our mini bus at a public car park for the Imbros Gorge near to where Wolfgang, Julia, Andreas and Angelika parked for their walk along the gorge while Heiko, Irene and I prepared for the downhill freewheel at 11.00 to the coast at Chora Sfakion. First we passed along the road with views to the left down the Imbros Gorge. We passed through three tunnels into a wide open area after the narrow sheltered upper valley. We were immediately hit by the strength of a wind coming from the coast. As we rounded a series of hairpins among the red rocks the wind became more ferocious, sometimes it was difficult to move forward even though we were cycling down the mountain. The closer we were to the coast and the hairpins became more shallow the wind became a wall that was hard to battle against. Irene was just ahead of me but I could see Heiko further down really fighting against the force. A few kilometres from Chora Sfakion (Hora as the locals call it) there was a road off to the left but we carried on down to the coast. The final section into the town is quite steep. We stopped at the water front for photos and to get our breath back and psyche ourselves up for the return trip back up the mountain at 12.00; then further on a couple of kilometres to a right hand turn for Akones at the top of the mountain. Hora was the evacuation point for the British defeat in Crete in 1940. It was another Dunkirk of 10,000 soldiers but another 100,000 were destroyed by Nazi bombers. But many of these were helped to escape by locals who aided the operation and later dealt with by execution squads. Memorials are along the road by the waterfront. At 13.45 I reached the head of the first road tunnel above the Imbros Gorge where Irene caught up after the wind battle and took photos of a poser. We had experienced a battle coming up the climb but it wasn’t as bad as thought because at every alternate hairpin the wind acted as a pushing power force. On two occasions though when riding against the wind it was impossible to stay on the bike so had to walk to the next hairpin. After passing through the tunnels the high mountain walls offered some protection against the full force of the wind. We met up with Heiko at the main road to Akones junction and he offered advice. The road continues up 5km to the satellite dishes that mark the top. First there is a left hand bend further up followed by a right hand bend after a short down then left again, down about 500 metres then at a road sign take a bitumen track off to the left, a right hand bend then further up a long gradual bend for a kilometre to the satellite dishes. I followed Irene up who stayed about 500 metres in front but lo9st her at a left hand bend. I continued on down from the road sign by the bitumen track thinking this was the downhill that Heiko described but found out later that I’d already cycled that! I was now heading down and away from the satellite dishes and heading for Asfendos. I turned back, against a wall of wind so had to walk, past a farm then back up to the road sign and Heiko parked in the mini bus! I indicated I was taking that drive up to the satellite dishes! The final section on the rough road to the top and the schuesseln had to be walked. Irene was on the way down as I walked up so glad that I wasn’t too far behind. I took some photos at the top then back to Heiko and Irene at the mini bus 900 metres away after 3.5 hours up from Hora at 15.30. We congratulated Heiko on his achievement of his 600th BIG but it was a pity that more of the group weren't there to celebrate with him. From here an hour back down to Vryses then 1.5 hours back along the coast heading back to Heraklion and later a welcome big meal at the hotel. We all thought this particular climb from the south was the most impressive climb we experienced on Crete.
Wednesday 19th October 2016 Amoudara, Heraklion to Asfendilia, BIG 933
Today we all drove out 70km south at 09.00 through Tefeli on road 99 then on to Pirgos then Mesochorio. This time it was mass expedition; Heiko, Irene and I in one mini bus; Wolfgang, Andreas, Angelika and Julia in their hired white van and Ard, on his last day with us, alone in his car as we all sped ‘hell for leather’ like Wacky Races to invade the village with intrepid cyclists. We took a right turn by a garage and parked at the bottom of the climb under a Greek flag in front of a large church. It’s only 88km to reach the radio masts at the top but it was a tough climb. We started off at 10.00 as a group but I had to stop to put my air in my rear tyre. I caught up a little but the other men were too far ahead. I cycled with the girls but Angelika was finding it difficult on the heavy hired bike. I cycled on with Julia up the hairpins with fantastic views back down to the flat valley. The Asterousia Mountains are red and barren, many twists and turns to the ridge then a sharp downhill into an upper valley and pass through Achentrias village then up again until we reach a road junction for Ethia straight on and the descent down to Pirgos but to right is a 100 metre gravel track that becomes tarmac again leading up 3km to the Achentrias antennas crowning the mountain. First it’s a road up to a right then a left bend to the ridge and a final left bend to the antennas. I could see Irene ahead negotiating the final kilometre. When I reached that point at 13.15 Heiko and Art were taking in the view from the top sheltered by one of the buildings among the antennas. Irene kindly took some photos of me posing at the latest conquest, then we made our way up the final climb to Ethia with cross and church on a hill. Through the village and over the brow of the hill we met up with Wolfgang and Andreas before the long descent, however Julia and Angelika had either gone ahead of us down to Pirgos or had returned the way we came. The rest of us had a glorious descent on a long sweep past the red rocks down to Pirgos, stopping frequently to take photos, but only took an hour to reach the valley. From there we cycled the uninteresting main road back to Mesochorio to complete the circuit. All told, 2.5 hours up and one hour down excluding stops. Irene joined the others at a taverna on the south coast (somewhere – where?) while Heiko and I drove back to Heraklion.
Thursday 20th October 2016 Amoudara, Heraklion to Omalos, BIG 929
Today was the longest drive by far. Personally I’m glad we didn’t drive this distance earlier in the week, I would have been put off by the time spent in the car. Starting at 09.00 we drove 146km (92 miles) to Fournes south of Hania, arriving at 11.00. The climb to the edge of Samaria Gorge took 2 hours 40 minutes shared with Irene’s company all the way. She had her Talisker Whiskey cycle shirt on so I followed the whiskey trail all the way. Pity there was no hip flask with it. The lower slopes passed by Crete Botanical Gardens and along here were many fruit trees lining the road for some distance and passed orange groves and vineyards. There’s no real steep section on the climb. Before and after the only sizable village, Lakki, it was a little steeper through wild scenery. In Lakki, a predominantly green and white village, we thought we spotted Andreas speeding down - bit embarrassing after calling out to him to discover it was a complete stranger as he flashed past. We were totally ignored so pleased it must have been a local. Continuing up the scenery becomes more rocky to a top of a ridge from where it was down a steep slope heading down to Omalos in the upper valley. Before the descent we met Heiko 9 km from the end of the road and returning back to Fournes. He told us what to expect ahead. We saw Wolfgang and party relaxing at a tavern in Omalos. We found out later that they had returned to Fournes by a different route to the east via Prases. From Omalos it was an easy road 4 km along the valley, an enclosed little world, a fertile plain ringed by rocky slopes high up in the White Mountains (Lefka Ori). Years of winter rains have washed the top soil down from the encircling slopes to create this upland oasis. It’s a real peaceful area. The final kilometre was indicated but this is only an easy incline to the Samaria Gorge and a tavern to the right. From here the road continues for another 5000 metres to the end, a turn to the right behind the tavern then shortly a turn to the left to reach the old grey brick restaurant, above Xiloskalon wooden walkway, at the end of the road after 28km. From here we congratulated ourselves on completing the BIG’s then went down to the head of Samaria Gorge to find out that the way down is very steep and hardly any view for a long way down as it passes through a narrow schlucht so thought it not worth the effort as much time would be needed to see it properly. Irene contacted Heiko to say we wouldn’t be visiting it so Heiko offered to come to collect us. Irene and I waited at the tavern eating and drinking. I had a beer 3.00€ and a ham/cheese flaky triangular pie 2.50€. Heiko arrived at 15.15 and we bundled the bikes into the back of the mini bus. We arrived back at the hotel at 17.30.
Friday 21st October 2016
I have a day exploring Heraklion by bike and also to find the normal road route to the airport. This is by taking a right from the port and next left after 100 metres for a steady uphill for 2km. in Heraklion I explored the city walls, cycling the length of them and also viewing the old gateways into the city. Following this it was back to the hotel and a gratis massage, swim then relax an hour on the beach.
Saturday 22nd October 2016
Much of the day was spent on and around the beach and hotel just relaxing and reading. Heiko, Wolfgang and Andreas climbed towards Idean Andhron again but turned off to the left near the ridge to Skinakas and the observatory at 1750 metres height.
Sunday 23rd October 2016
After breakfast a laze about on the beach for much of the day. With Heiko to the airport at 18.00 as their Lufthansa Flight departure was 20.40. My flight EZY5464 departure to London Gatwick at 23.20, arriving in London Gatwick South Terminal on time at 01.20 the following morning.
Flights Manchester to Heraklion £99.99, bike included Flight Heraklion to Gatwick £225.99, bike included Hotel Apollonia Beach, Amoudara £690.00 (769€) Linoperamata, Heraklion Share of mini bus hire and diesel £189.00 (210€) Spends £70.00 £1275