Monday 30th March 2015
Flight from Manchester Terminal 3 at 06.20 to Palma Ryanair FR3441, arriving 10.00am £64.99, bag £25, bike £50. Mark drives me to the airport to arrive 5.00 a.m. with panniers and bike already packed.
A short distance of 4km from the airport to Playa Palma and the hotel where I could leave my heavy bike flight bag and carrying wheels but it was a long 4km from the airport, then there were the busy main roads to cross. I gave up and assembled the bike at the Repsol Garage then cycled a further 3km to the hotel. Google map was correct as the crow flies but no crows around here. I was glad to leave the bag at Hotel Sant Jordi on De Grau 5, Playa de Palma then cycle along the front at 12.30. The tourist resort begins here and edged by miles of wide sandy beach stretching out all the way to S’Arenal with plenty of shops and a myriad of seafront cafés, I had an easy ride to begin with along the coast and at the end at Ca’n Pastilla took a left then right then escaped out into a very different scene of open countryside heading for Llucmajor. There’s also a much busier road that I had to keep off as this is a motorway. At first the quieter road follows it to the right but later I took an underpass at a roundabout and the road continues on the left hand side of the motorway and on into Llucmajor. I made the mistake of taking a wrong turning at first and ended up on the motorway. A police car warning soon put me right to that one and I turned back to the roundabout along the hard shoulder, helped along by a farmer in his tractor that pointed the way. In Llucmajor I saw the 17th century convent of Bonaventura and an 18th century church then passed through the narrow streets and past a stone cross indicating a battle between Jaime lll and the army of Perdro lV of Aragon. Turned right up the street where the Ca’n Tia Teleca restaurant is on the corner then followed the Travesia signs through the town then the signs for Algaida and heading north. Soon I saw a sign for Randa leading off to the right. This is an easy road at first for about a kilometre then rises steeply into the quaint hillside village of stone buildings and a popular cyclist café next to the church. After the café it was left then immediate right and I was heading for my first BIG of the tour up to Santuari de Cura BIG 478. The road winds up the Puig de Randa in tight bends. On the way up is another sanctuary called Santuari de Gracia where open air concerts are held on summer evenings. Near the top on the right is another sanctuary called Sant Honorat. Passing the radio mast that’s on the left finally I reach the arched stone gateway leading into the courtyard of de Cura at 548 metres, 1800 foot. I could see the library and stone chapel but didn’t bother with the gift shop. The library contains manuscripts and relics from the 13th century but the main reason for being here as well as conquering my first BIG of the year was the fantastic view from here on such a clear day of the whole southern coast and ahead to my next climb beyond Felanitx across the wide plain. Across to the north is the long chain of the Tramuntana range closing off the northern horizon. I could even see all the way across the island to Alcudia’s bay. Mirador de Cura is 37km (24 miles) from Playa de Palma then a further 42km (27 miles) to San Salvador Monastery BIG 479. The road up is well wooded with the road sheltered by the trees. Just before the top is a viewing platform at the final turn to the right where there’s a large white cross. From there to the top a few yards to the monastery on a final steep rise. I suffered a severe cramp on the way up near the top.
I reached the top at 19.00. there’s a great view of the surrounding countryside and the nearby coast. Close to is a separate hill with a large white cross crowning the hill. This is reached by a track from the road on the way up here. On to Porto Colom to stay the night at Hostal HPC Porto Colom, Avenida Cristofol Colom 5, a further 11km (7 miles) a total distance of 90km (51 miles), arriving at 20.00. The hotel is on the waterfront but my accommodation was behind this on a road to the rear. I had a meal there mainly because there was nowhere else open, retired at 23.00. meal 37€ (£26). 11.30€ (£9) meal and drink, 2.60€ drink. Total 58.90€ (£40)
85km (51 miles) from Playa Palma to Porto Colom. It took me 7.5 hours from 12.30 to 20.00
Tuesday 31st March 2015
Cycle Porto Colom via Ca’n Picafort to Alcudia, 57 miles.
Up as fresh as a daisy and enjoyed my breakfast slowly then cycled Porto Colom to Porto Cristo 21km (13 miles) 1.5 hours (10.00 – 11.30) ½ hour stop (12.00). I took a diversion to Sa Coma as we stayed at the Bouganvilla Hotel here when we came for a family holiday about 10 years ago. The place was just as I remembered – and why should it change? It serves the need of the predominant British tourists that stay here. Back to the main road and past the zoological gardens , bypassed Cala Millor a German centre for holidaymakers and took the lane for Arta. My original plan was to cycle to Cala Ratjada but now had the idea that I could take in a hill climb at the end of the day and cycle from Puerto Pollenca to Mal Pas Mirador. I took some photos at Arta of the church of San Salvador on the hill overlooking the town then continued on for Albufera. The road from Arta to Ca’n Picafort inland is wide and busy and probably the least attractive part of my day’s cycling but when I reached Ca’n Picafort it more than made up for it because from here I could take the cycle path that hugs the coast all the way to Alcudia. I took a look at Albufuria but wasn’t enamoured by the place, it’s just a string of hotels but one point in favour was the long slip road parallel to the main road through the built up area. I had a rest for a while on the coast cycleway and had a cold cider then refreshed I made my way on to Alcudia and asked at the tourist information in the centre on the wooden planking area where my hotel was, showing them my booking.com acknowledgement. It was easily found, took a left by the big Lidl store and there it was in front along the road. My hotel was at Hotel Astoria Playa, Avenida Astoria 1, Port d’Alcudia. I deposited most of my luggage in the room and travelled on light along the coast north wards to Puerto Pollenca and along the front to the other side of the town for the sudden rise up to Mal Pas, signposted for Formentor but I wasn’t going that far. It’s a fantastic ascent up to the viewpoint (Mirador) with some steep sections and crowned with a magnificent view with the coast near Tarragona somewhere in the distance. The foreground is white jagged granite rocks. Back down from here to Puerto Pollenca, another cold cider on the beach then back along the coast to Alcudia. I had a pasta in the town then cycled back to the hotel. My bike went into a large metal lock up and secured by a guard. After looking at tomorrow’s plans it was time for bed.
Wednesday 1st April 2015
From Alcudia,. Cycle Alcudia via Puerto Pollenca to Puerto Soller 120km (80 miles) with BIG’s 476 La Corbata and 477 Puig Major 6 hours add 3 hours for two BIG’s, anticipated time09.30 to 18.30. From Alcudia after a hearty breakfast I collected the bike and cycled to the centre, turn by Lidl supermarket on to and along Avinguda del Tuca then a right turn for the quiet road to Pollenca along the coast then a left turn along a narrow leafy country road after a few kilometres then the same road as yesterday but this time took a left on a narrow leafy country lane before reaching Puerto Pollenca that led me along to inland Pollenca. A slight confusion looking for the road for Soller from here as at first I was on the road for Inca. At first the way forward is a straight road gradually up through a wooded area to Coll Femenia at 505 metres then a drop down to Lluc Monastery. I had a look round but didn’t linger long and dark clouds loomed so wanted to reach the higher ground and on to Soller before any serious weather developed. At Coll de Sa Batalia the road ends and joins the Inca to Soller road then a gradual up most of the way to the viaduct at the junction for the Sa Colobra road. I had a squeezed orange from the roadside stall here among loads of other cyclists parked up who had come over from Sa Colobra. I cycled up the open road 100 metres to the top of Coll de la Reis 620 metres or La Corbata from the Sa Colobra side but that will have to wait until tomorrow as I had no time to climb this road today, I had to cycle on for Puerto Soller. I continued on a little way to see the serpentine road dropping down the mountainside on the other side then turned back. At Coll de la Reis I asked a girl cyclist to take my photo who I was chatting to at the roadside stall at the foot of the climb earlier. I told her about the view over the other side where I had just come from but she would also tackle this climb the following day. I continued on for Puerto Soller on a fairly steep climb to reach Gorg Blau under a short tunnel. From there to Cuber lake then another gradual up to reach the military area off to the right where the road leads off steeply to Puig Major, the highest point on Mallorca. The road is closed off by tall metal gates so it isn’t possible to visit the highest point however the road for Purto Soller continues on to reach a tunnel above Cuber lake. This road passes under the ridge of Serra de Torrellas to emerge at the highest possible public point of Puig Major, BIG number 477. From there it was all downhill to Soller. On the way I stopped to take in the view at Mirador de Ses Barques, a stone stepped viewing platform to the right of a café strategically placed at the viewpoint. From here down further and steeply to join the Soller to Puerto Soller road at a roundabout in the low valley then took a right turn for Port de Soller and soon finding my pre-booked hotel along the front. From Alcudia to La Corbata 35km (22 miles) 2.5 hours, easy from this side. La Corbata to Puerto Soller 34km (21 miles) 3 hours (21.00). staying at Aparthotel Generoso Beach , Marina 4. I had a veranda at my hotel room so went out to buy crackers and cheese and enjoyed this with a bottle of wine watching the setting sun and people watching. I found out that it was the opening season for the hotel this week and I was in one of the few rooms available. No wonder I got the room at a good price. I parked the bike and locked it in a downstairs room that was vacant where workmen were busy fitting in the double glazing.
Thursday 2nd April 2015
My original plan was to cycle back up to Pug Major and down to Sa Colabra then back up to La Corbata, down to Soller and climb Coll de Soller but this would have been a tough day. I found out this morning that I could take a boat with the bike on board from Port de Soller to Sa Calobra, cycle to the top of sa Colbra BIG 476 then visit Soller and up to Coll de Soller BIG 475. This would be more sensible. From Sa Colabra to Puerto Soller it’s 60km (39 miles) and I planned this for a 3 hour trip 11.00 – 14.00. I took the boat trip from the harbour at 10.00am, the fare was 17€ (£12). The boat trip was great, it was interesting to see the cliff scenery and waterfalls from the boat and the weird shapes of the rock formations dropping sharply to the sea. This area is a far cry from the sandy beaches along the south coast. Before the climb I took a look at Es Torrent de Pareis or the twin torrents, down here dwarfed by sheer rock faces and vertical cliffs I was surrounded by a fantastic wild landscape. The blue sky seemed so far away and there was the screech of wild birds and occasional bleat of mountain goat echoing around the canyon. It’s a small white pebble cove surrounded by sheer height.
Starting off for the La Corbata BIG 476 I soon left the tourist area and tourist coaches sheltered in the cove behind and began the ascent, fairly easy at first along a leafy lane that soon led up to rocks on either side. In front of me was one huge standing rock that overhangs the road from the right. Once there the road passes through a narrow funnel with rocks towering on both sides. After this there is a steady twist of hairpins to reach the top and I was one of dozens of cyclists on this climb this morning, most of them the lightweight sporty heads down bums up variety but one stood out – it was a family on a tandem pulling a trailer with two children in and behind the trailer a wheel extension carrying their luggage. This was really impressive and told them so! Shortly after this I reached the point where the road does a full circle and passes under itself then there’s a café just underneath on the right on the way up. I continued on about another 500 metres to reach the top where I was yesterday, today I felt better for conquering it as it’s far too easy coming up from the south side. Cycling the Serra de Tramuntana, Bradley Wiggins once called Mallorca hill cycling a Scalextric set for cyclists and it’s where road and track racing professionals like to limber up for the Tour de France. This wild mountainscape of pockmarked limestone peaks, serpentine roads and cliffs that sheer down to the Mediterranean is a cycling wonderland, offering the most challenging terrain of this bikeable island. Top of them all is the 12km hairpin riddled road down to the overshadowed narrow bay of Sa Calobra. There’s giddy ravine views all the way up and at one point the road squeezes between an impossible cleft in a huge rock. Bradley Wiggins took a casual 20 minutes to climb to the top of the road. It took me one and quarter hours – ah but then I was taking photos! The serpentine road is pure drama, carving through the rock and skirting narrow ridges as it unfurls to the coast. It’s the feat of an Italian engineer Antonio Paretti who built it in 1932. Its twists and turns were inspired by tying a tie, whatever else?
From La Corbata I went back over Puig Major road but it was easier today as I’d left most of my luggage back at the hotel. Puig Major is inaccessible by road as it’s fenced off by the military. This is the only dowdy area on this road as the road veers to the left. The highest point by permitted road is the north side of the road tunnel north of Cuber Lake. I continued on over, repeating yesterday’s ride and back to the roundabout down in the valley however this time I took a left turn and headed for Soller but bypassed the town and continued on south for Coll de Soller 497metres, BIG 475.
The main road section to just before the tunnel is a fairly easy rise but busy as this was the main road between the two populated centres. From Soller to Col de Soller it’s 10km (7 miles) and I allowed myself 1.5 hours but it was really 3 hours because from the main road it was a tough climb up through the woods following the Torrent des Teix along 25 hairpins to Ca’n Topa café at the top of the road. I stopped for an hour and relaxed in the sun, feeling at home because the place is owned by English ex-pats. They’re from the south of England but they can’t help that. It was good to have some conversation with other Brits. From here back down the same way at 6.00pm after asking the man in charge to take some photos of me posing at the top by the summit marker. Back in Soller I took a look at the railway station and one of the old trains that stopped on its way to Palma. This train sets were given to Mallorca by the city of San Francisco. So good to know when they become unusable in the USA they get sold off to the Spanish. I heard the same is true of cable car cabling in Switzerland that when it was past its sell-by date it got sold off to the Italians for their cable cars. I had a look at the impressive cathedral in the town centre and cycled the old streets for a while then made my way back down to Puerto Soller before darkness set in. I bought some more cheese, crackers and wine and settled down on the veranda but I was later tonight, it was already dark. The Brit at Coll de Soller had told me about a great restaurant that I should look up and have a meal this evening. I weighed up the menu but preferred to relax with some good food at my hotel staying at Aparthotel Generoso Beach , Marina 4 for a second night.
Friday 3rd April 2015
After a good breakfast at the hotel I left Puerto Soller for Andratx with BIG 474. 64km (40 miles), I estimated 5 hours 11.00 – 16.00 but it took me longer, arriving in Puerto Andratx at 18.00. Puerto Soller to Valldemossa, taking a right turn over a river bridge where the road follows the bay westward a short distance before climbing away for Deja and on to Valdemossa 27km (17 miles) 2.5 hours . Deja is an interesting large mountain village perched on the hillside where the road does a loop around the town and leaves to the west much lower down. After all the climbing to reach it I felt cheated but then I had great views across as the road passes above the sea most of the way to Valldemossa. This town was worth a detour as its all on the flat but there were an enormous amount of tourists there, coachloads. The coaches were lined up on the approach to the town. It’s a nice place, full of interesting old buildings but definitely done up for the tourists with all available space given to cafés and souvineer shops. I passed on for the contrasting peace of the country lane to reach La Granja at the foot of my final climb of the tour, well the final BIG that is as I still had to negotiate the area between Puerto Andratx and Magaluf tomorrow. La Granja is another tourist spot where there were plenty of coaches. I took a quick look at the entrance to the large hall and grounds then back and took the right fork leading up to Galilea BIG 474 24km (15 miles). The large house can be seen from a much better angle at the start of the climb above the grounds. Climbing over then down to Puigpunyent village where there are only locals then begins the climb on the narrow road up to Galilea. This is Mallorca’s highest village at almost 500 metres. The top is marked by the little white church of the Immaculate Conception built in 1810. Next to is the very welcome restaurant called Bar Parroquail, the village meeting place where I had tapas and a large beer. From the wall at the end of the small square is a fantastic view looking south west across the corner of the island around Andratx. From Galilea to Puerto Andratx through Capdella and Sa Coma 20km (13 miles) 2 hours. From Andratx its all industry until reaching the port. I had my one and only mishap when mty front wheel caught in a road dip and sent me flying with a lorry braking behind me as my pannier bags flew off in his path. I was ever so grateful! It was a never ending ride along to the port along a causeway and had to ask where the road was where I was staying but it soon became obvious. I’d had too much sun today and my arms were sore so needed something to cool them so went to a chemist. I was staying at Hostal Catalina Vera, Isaac Peral 63, Port d’Andratx and was welcomed with open arms – literally. “Welcome home!”, the owner said as he greeted me. He took me to my room and I could place the bike inside. The room was Spartan but comfortable and I had my own sun lounging area but for that I needed sun cream. As the owner was so friendly I asked him for some sun tan cream and he gave me a whole bottle. “You keep it”, he said, “you’re home now!” I must check my map, I think I’m still in Mallorca. I enjoyed a good meal out on my last evening at a restaurant on the waterfront then back to the hotel after a wander along the front.
Saturday 4th April 2015
After a good breakfast at the hotel in the quaint old main house I made my way out of Puerto Andratx and found my way along the narrower short coast road to Camp de Mar and on to Paguera. This place is so touristy and blatantly Germanic, no English holiday makers would feel comfortable here. There are heissewurst and beer kellers everywhere and not a fish and chip shop in sight. I biked on along the cobbled main street keeping a low profile and found a cycle path as I wasn’t allowed to cycle the motorway that begins here. It seems that the Germans have their own private autobahn leading to Palma. It was one final climb as it was quite a hill over to Palma Nova where I got confused with the roads where the cycleway ended but soon found the right way and passed Magalluf on to the broad bay of Bahia de Palma. I continued on slowly in the heat along the waterfront to reach the harbour of expensive yachts lined up at Terreno and reached the main city. I was really impressed with the cathedral and the water fountains in front of it and took far too many photos. I stopped for an hour, sat and had an ice cream then made my way back to the start of my tour, slowly along a good cycleway most of the way to Playa de Palma and found the hotel where I’d left my flight bike bag at Sant Jordi airport hotel 40km (25 miles) 1.2 miles from the airport. I enjoyed a good meal in the hotel that evening and probably ate too much – but content.
Total mileage for the whole tour 339
Sunday 5th April 2015
I took a bus from just outside the hotel to the airport and wished I’d known about a bus when I arrived on the first day. My flight from Palma was at 10.35 to Manchester at 12.25 £33.99, Bag £25, bike £50. Total £248.98. Ryanair flight FR3442. I took a train from the Airport at 13.12, changing at Wilmslow 13.21, from Wilmslow 13.30 to Holmes Chapel at 13.44