Saturday 1st September 2001
Exeter – Chineway Hill (Ottery St Mary’s) – Exeter – Postbridge – Barnstaple
Speedometer reading 3872 to 3973
Left Holmes Chapel on the 22.48 to Crewe and waited for the 00.13 to Exeter, loaded the bike in the guards van and slept as far as Exeter. The train had long scheduled stops in Birmingham and Bristol, arriving in Exeter at 05.43, just as dawn broke.
(Crewe 00.13, Stafford 00.45, Wolverhampton 01.03, Birmingham 01.31 – 2.30, Bristol 03.30 – 04.40, Taunton 05.14, Exeter 05.43). Set out from Exeter St David’s at 6.00am on the station tower clock. Up St David’s Hill just as dawn was breaking. Through the empty streets, past Central station and along the main street in the town past the old Guildhall on High Street, right onto Paris Street to the roundabout then along Heavitree Road on the A30 heading for Honiton. The new by pass takes the bulk of the traffic away from the old road so I had a quiet ride along the old A30, passing through a fair amount of morning mist on the way to Ottery St Mary. It was worth a photo at one point with the mist on the ground in front and rising behind it was the long green slope of the ridge from Ottery to Sidmouth. This was were I was heading as one of England’s Brevette International Grimpuer (B.I.G.) is Chineway Hill, a steep rise up and over on the Ottery to Seaton road. Where the Ottery road leaves the A30 from Exeter there’s a rise up then down again to Ottery. In the town I made the mistake of turning right, ending up in Wiggaton to the south – a pretty little place of thatched cottages huddled together. Instead of turning back I took a turning up the side of East Hill hoping to loin Chineway Hill from the south but there was no road through. Instead the road went up for a short distance along a typical high hedge and shadowy Devon lane then a long sweep down to Ottery again. The town is known as the ‘Clavering of St Mary’ in Thackery’s Pendennis. It’s known for its church of many styles, a miniature of Exeter cathedral. Near here is the birthplace of S.T. Coleridge, poet whose father was a vicar and head of the local grammar school.
At least I could say I was discovering the area and not just taking the climb. Back down, almost back into the town, then right and up on the right road signposted for Seaton. A steady rise up at first then the steep bit started through the woods. It was a mile to the top – can hardly call it a ‘pass’ in this area but the steepness made up for it. Great views back down toward Exeter but nothing to the east as the road goes up further to reach the top proper at the Hare of Hounds pub on the Sidmouth to Honiton road crossing the road to Seaton, so I continued another mile to that point. This is Gittisham Hill, 812 feet. A quick look around at the top, took in the view of all around but couldn’t see the sea from here. Back down the road, descent of Chineway and a stop for the view. One last linger on East Hill then down to Ottery and returned the way I came into Exeter. At Heavitree there was a lot of traffic going in to the town, a complete contrast to the lonely road at dawn. It took a while getting through the slow moving traffic into the centre of the town. I had nothing to eat on my mini trip so I had breakfast in Macdonalds then at 11.15 left the town along Fore Street, over the Exe, past St Thomas station and a right turn onto the well signposted road to Moretonhampstead. It’s a long grind up out of Exeter but great views back over the town, dominated by it’s cathedral. There’s no real let up along this road as most of it is ‘up’ especially on the early stages out from Exeter and later up from Steps Bridge over the Teign. There’s another steep section just before Moretonhampstead where the road goes over Mardon Down, the most easterly of the Dartmoor Tors. There wasn’t a lot of traffic on the road, which helped a lot in slow progress. Down to the woods along the Teign, over the old stone Steps Bridge and a short stop. There’s a youth hostel here on the left with the car park on the other side of the road. It was long climb up through the woods to Morden Down, down then up again on the last mile into Moretonhampstead. It’s an old fashioned town. There’s a row of old almouses, a stone church and a few old style cafes – like going back in time. I even bought a couple of yoghurts in the Spar shop for 10p each – old fashioned prices but the sell-buy date was yesterday, 31/8 and I was warned by the shop assistant. They tasted OK though and I had no ill effects after. After that and a pint of milk I had the energy for the steady climb up for the next B.I.G. of the day, Bush Down 5 ½ miles southwest on the road to Postbridge. There are two steep sections, one just before the Manaton turn-off and further along a very steep section with a viewpoint and car park at the top a mile before Bush Down. Great views all around and ahead was the television mast at Hessary Tor, Princetown. From Bush Down, descent to Warren House Inn below Water Hill, a rise up to Merripit then a long descent to Postbridge. I stopped for a while at Postbridge, at the clapper bridge over the East Dart then darted off back up the hill to Warren House, a short stop up to Bush Down, photos at the top then took a left turn striking north, signposted Jurston for Chagford. Mainly down but a few twisty bits among the high hedges and blind corners up Meldon Hill to reach Chagford, one of the old Stannery market towns of Dartmoor. The stone market cross is interesting, from here I wanted to go to Sandypark on the Exeter – Oakhampton road but the road was closed so took the road to Easton then along the Oakhampton road as far as Whiddon Down to strike north at that point for North Tawton. Cycling the A382 was slow progress as it was mainly up and high heges, typical of Devon roads so no view. The lane north was closed so I carried on to South Zeal. Again the road to the north was closed. I couldn’t go past this point to reach Barnstaple so pushed the bike through a fairground covering the lane, blocked by a fire engine but I could get through. Into South Tawton then Spitlar Cross, Langdown and north to North Tawton. Had a stop here for a Cornish pasty from the Spar shop, a bit confused with the direction from here so asked the way to Lapford and the nearest railway station along the Tarka line to Barnstaple. Very pleasant lanes along high ground and low hedges so had good views back to Dartmoor and to Exmoor ahead. Past the radio tower I was directed to and down to the Exeter – Barnstaple road. Reaching Lapford railway station I found out that I had a 70-minute wait for the next train so I didn’t bother. I pressed on ahead through the Taw valley, a scenic stretch and the train passed me about 5 miles south of Barnstaple so I was glad I made the right choice as it was late! It was a long road but again, very little traffic for a main road. Plenty of ups and downs but mainly down so I made good time and arrived in Barnstaple at 7.30. I had a bed booked at Ilfracombe youth hostel but that was 10 miles further and had enough for one day. On reaching Bishops Tawton above Barnstaple it started raining so that decided it for me. I had enough after 101 miles and was in search of the nearest hotel. I found one close to the centre by the river, the Park Hotel on Taw Vale. At £45 it was a little more than I could afford so I bargained the lady down saying I was hoping for a single room at a more reasonable price. I got it for £30 and had a really good evening! I watched the TV briefly to unwind. There was a wedding party on in the hotel and most of the guests there were in the party. After a long soak in the bath and a change of clothes I looked presentable enough and took a look inside the main hall where it was all happening downstairs. They knew I wasn’t part of it but I was invited in! I enjoyed a free buffet and as much wine as I wanted! I went for a walk around the town later and turned in at 11.00 after all those miles, a good feed and wine I was well away as soon as my head hit the pillow.
Sunday 2nd September 2001
Barnstaple – Lynmouth – Porlock – Minehead – Bridgwater
Speedometer reading 3974 to 4044
I was up at 7.00am, anticipating breakfast at 7.30 and out of the hotel on my Exmoor challenge at 8.00. It wasn’t to be. Getting down there for breakfast I was gently told breakfast wasn’t served until 8.30 on a Sunday – but I could start at 8.15 when the cereal and juice would be out on the buffet table. So I waited, watched the news, had a snooze, then down at 7.45, a walk along the river then back in for breakfast at 8.15.
Great breakfast – it kept me going later until midday. It was buffet style so I had as much as I wanted – so I did. I tucked into about a litre of orange juice, a grapefruit, meusli and yoghurt, a big fry up – followed by seconds, toast and marmalade and coffee. The waitress knew I was cycling and she was saying to the others, rather loudly, that I needed it for my bike trip! I pocketed a couple of yoghurts for later. All in all that was a good £30 worth with a wedding feast thrown in! One of the staff brought my bike out of the lock up and at 9.15 I was on my way. I decided against going up to Ilfracombe as I wanted to go over Lynton Hill, Oare Post and Porlock and maybe Dunkery Beacon so I made my way direct to Lynmouth. Here was another road that was mainly up but there was a glorious sweep down near Arlington Court and again between Blackmoor Gate and Parracombe, and the descent into Lynmouth. Other than that the road was mainly up as I entered into Exmoor National Park. I had a long stop in Lynmouth, taking in the coastline, the funicular up to Lynton (not a scratch on the San Salvatore in Lugano, but worth a look at). Coffee and ginger cake in a café, a look at the tourist information office in the RNLB building on the front, then into low gear, across the bridge and a very steep rise out of the village. Lynton’s Hill is 438 metres and I was about to find out just how steep the road to Countisbury Hill could be, beyond that. It was a very steep section out of Lynmouth, less steep after ½ mile but a long climb along the coast road to Countisbury village marked by a white pub at the top, popular with the bikers as there was a lot there today. Great views back to Lynton and Lynmouth and across the Severn estuary to Glamorgan. Past the turning for Oare and Lorna Doone country, along the A39 to County Gate. There’s a visitor centre and a series of footpaths that starts from this point. From here Dunkery Beacon can be seen in the distance. It’s nothing spectacular, just a high ground in the distance. Nearer to though, Dunkery is more impressive, especially on the approach from Luccombe village. Dunkery Beacon, west of Wheddon Cross, follows around the edge of the Beacon then descends through Coombes to the A39 near Porlock; at 1706 feet (519 metres) it’s the highest point on Exmoor. Along a bit on a slight slope up to Oare Post, the highest point between Lynmouth and Porlock then a rapid descent down Porlock Hill after the toll road turn- off. The last bit is a 1 in 4 into Porlock, a dangerous twist in the road through the woods. I should have bought that clotted cream for Ruth here, shops selling some nice stuff. From here, uphill a short way then right for Luccombe. I was running out of time to catch my train home so couldn’t continue the few more miles up to Dunkery Beacon. This would have added about another 1 ½ hours. Got to within a short distance of the climb up, did an about turn back over the pack horse bridge to rejoin the Minehead road. I was overtaken by a group of very muddy mountain bikers – I know where they’ve been! Dunkery Beacon will have to wait until some future time. Down the hill and left down into Minehead. The main street is full of cheapie shops and second hand stores – a poor man’s paradise! The only place I really noticed was the West Somerset Railway on the seafront. Had this brainwave of travelling on the steam train as far as Williton then cycling the rest of the way into Bridgwater – not a bad idea if it worked but it didn’t…Went for the 2.50 to Williton, due to arrive at 3.34 and I would easily catch the 15.10 from Bridgwater to arrive in Crewe at 19.55. Enjoyed a pint of real ale from the temporary set up on the platform, drank it on the train as the glass would end up back in Minehead later. Paid 50p for me and £1 for the bike! (Privilege fare) and got stranded at Blue anchor as the train coming the other way was late and likely to be at least an hour delay.
I decided to bike it or I would miss the later train, having now missed the first one. The guard gave me some useful tips on the best way to bike to Bridgwater. At that price I gave up and cycled along the coast road to Watchet, over a headland and bypassed Williton (as directed) to arrive on the edge of the Quantock Hills at West Quantockhead, then up through Kilve and round the back of the Quantocks through Holford – the road was heading straight for them and I thought I was going back over them – at the last moment the road veers east through Nether Stowey. Past Coleridge Cottage to Cannington. I came off the by-pass hoping to buy some clotted cream but they sold out. A few more miles, downhill and into Bridgwater. I enjoyed my trip around the Quantocks, and I’ll definitely be back for a closer look in the future and tackle Dunkery Beacon and Porlock area. This should only take a day so something to look forward to. Had a last ditch effort to buy clotted cream but very few shops open in the town. The area by the station is a bit dowdy, a bit like the west end of Crewe on a miserable day! An inglorious end to a great weekend. I caught the 18.06 to Taunton, then to Crewe, arriving 23.00.