Saturday 5th September 2015 Home to Zagreb
This was a great introduction into Croatia; the Ryanair flight from Manchester was landing in a thunderstorm or if German; Blitzendonnerung. I felt a feeling of disappointment and frustration and hoped I didn’t have to suffer this sort of weather over the next two weeks. Looking through the windows I collected my rucksack and bike bag and must say was really impressed as this was the quickest ever collection from the carousel and soon passed through the customs area to emerge in the main hall. There were many people surrounding the exit with cards indicating arriving customers for car hire, onward connections, hotel bookings etc but I wasn’t one of them because this was independent travel with hired car and bike in boot. In fact I hadn’t booked anything except the flight and car hire and had no idea where I would sleep tonight. I put on my rainwear and made my way to the Enterprise car hire booth just to the right of the arrivals area, a short walk outside. Here I presented my documents and paid the extra 50€ to receive a green card that would allow me to travel across several country borders ; and there were many. I was crossing Croatia/Bosnia, Bosnia/Serbia, Serbia/Montenegro, Montenegro /Macedonia, Macedonia/Bulgaria, Bulgaria/Macedonia, Macedonia/Albania, Albania/Montenegro, Montenegro/Croatia, Croatia/Bosnia, Bosnia/Croatia, Croatia/Bosnia and finally Bosnia/Croatia. I was getting my money’s worth out of that green card. I was given the usual upgrade from the requested Opel Astra to a Citreon Elysee saloon 1.6L. the bike unassembled and still in the flight bag, it fitted into the ample boot snugly but what I didn’t reckon on at this stage was how it would fit in when assembled minus front wheel. I soon found out the following day – a hatchback would have been better. Driving away from Zadar airport terminal in heavy rain at 22.30 taking the road to the left from the car hire area on to Road 502 to Babindub then left on the main road from Babindub to junction 11 and was now on the motorway/autobahn A1 heading for Zagreb. I continued along here to Donji Stupnik and called it a day in the motorway service area and slept the night in the car south of Zagreb within spitting distance of my first cycle climb in the morning. I had driven a colossal distance to reach this point – 338km / 211 miles. I slept well in the passenger seat, reclined back as far as it would go. There was some noise from lorries in the parking area but earplugs and eye shades blotted that out and soon travelled to the land of nod.
Sunday 6th September 2015 Zagreb to Valjevo
Waking at 07.00 I strolled across to the motorway service station and bought a coffee after freshening up. After finishing the sandwiches from home that Ruth made me I was on my way again along the motorway and feeling alert after a good sleep. I took the Belgrade motorway as far as Kutina then headed off north-east to Virovitica then south east to Slatina and Slatinski Drenovac, 214km / 134 miles. Between Kutina and Virovitica and drove into a dead end street at Veliki looking for the direct route across to Slatina via Dulovac so asked the way. More time wasted in Virovitica as the way to Slatina from here wasn’t clear. I asked at a roundabout in the centre and was directed to the right then told to take the next left turn, no signposts. Following that I was fine until I reached Slatina. I now needed the road for Ceralije and Slatinski Drenovac. The way straight through the small town from the main road wasn’t correct. I asked again and was directed a little to the west to take a turn to the left just before traffic lights, the road south from village called Vocinska Ul for 16km to Cetinje. Here was the road that would lead to my first cycling. I reached Cetinje and asked the way and was directed left at the crossroads in the village. Just before I took the right turn but soon found out this wasn’t correct because I remember when travelling with Francois that I should have come to a gravel road sooner.
Driving to the left I soon reached Slatinski Drenovac, however the start of the climb was very different from our aborted first visit where the road ended and track continued. This time all visitors had to park on a grassy field and pay 10 Kuna for the privilege. However there was the assurance that the car was being guarded by national park officials on patrol. I bundled out the bike and assembled it ready for its first adventure in Croatia. A friendly patrol man told me it was 5km to Jankovac however I knew that Nevoljas BIG 888 at 761 metres, at the top of the road before the descent the other side to Velika, was at least 5km further. As I approached the caves and footbridges to the left of the gravel track under the grey cliffs I could hear loud voices coming from above the rocks and soon found out what the excited voices were about. This was Jankovac and it was only a slight detour over a wooden bridge to the left, 200 metres past the cliffs. The track veers to the left then a short rise to a large building with a lawn in front where everybody was enjoying watching fire-eaters, sword fighting and jousting. It was quite a sight with men in armour and ladies in flowing robes and large cone hats with drapes, cannons firing.. I stayed a while to take in the spectacle then continued on up the relative quiet of the track to the top. I remember the building at Jancovac from my last visit but then it was just a place for walkers and nothing like the handsome structure that’s there now. Nevoljas mountain itself is a short walk to the left from the track but I didn’t want to walk the narrow track through the trees. The top of the road is densely covered by spruce trees, there’s no view. The track down the other side isn’t as rocky as the previous year so I freewheeled down the other side of the pass until I reached the tree line above Velika then turned tail and went back down the track to the cliffs and bridges over the narrow stream. The walkway goes through clefts in the rock and there are narrow raised paths across to small waterfalls, an idyllic place. Another cyclist joined me for the decent then I loaded the bike back into the car. It was then that I realised that a saloon car isn’t ideal for transporting a bike. I had to be careful placing it in the hired car so as not to scratch the interior. It had to go in rear first as the handlebars wouldn’t fit in otherwise. I continued on then heading for Valjevo and the second climb. From the grass car park I took a right for the direct road to Nasice then on to Dakavo where the roads were confusing as signs were in Cyrillic. I asked the way and a friendly local family told me to follow their car. They guided me through the town on to the correct road and soon I was at the Bosnia border at Bosanski Samac. It was dark now as I followed the border through Obudavac, Brcko and Bijeljina to the Serbian border and to Loznica crossing a girder bridge spanning the Drina river. This bridge was the epitome of a spy thriller where east meets west. Over the bridge into Loznica and amazed at the contrast to the clean towns and villages of Croatia. Loznica is a grubby industrial town of ramshackled buildings sad looking people. I asked police the way through to Valjevo and was directed up the hill away from the town, glad to leave. This is a tricky road with many pot holes and cobbled in places and all road signs throughout Serbia are in Cyrillic except at major road junctions. I drove through night fog but it wasn’t cold. At 23.00 I reached Valjevo and parked the car at a lay-by just before the town then slept.
Monday 7th September 2015 Valjevo to Gacko
Waking early, must have been 06.00 and in zombie fashion half awake cycled down to the town and took the first right turn for Pocuta and Rogacica. The road was indicated as Bajina Basta. It took me 2.1/2 hours from Pazna Ravan to reach the top of Vincina Voda BIG 899, climbing away from the village in a clearing then into spruce woods further up then finally a clearing and the brown road summit plate. I returned back down the same way, back to the car then took the Pozega road south from the town after a coffee at a petrol station and checking the road direction out of the town because all signs are Cyrillic. The scenery was similar to the road earlier and I crossed over the Maljen height through spruce forest then down to Pozega to join the main road for Uzice. I don’t know how I did it but took the wrong road here and was heading south for Podgorica. I soon rectified it by taking the next right for Kremna then continued on for the Serbian/Bosnian border heading. I was stopped by the Serb police just short of the border, oh no! I was driving safely. They told me I was driving too fast at 6kph over the 60kph speed limit – that is 4mph above the limit. “Oh come on I said, only 6kph above, I was driving safely”. No way, I was charged 20€ and the officer laughed when he found out my name was Speed. I continued on more speed conscious but no way they would have another camera so close and reached the border. I left the car at Bare near a bridge over the Drina river south of Gorazde and took the road signposted Cajnice and was now on a pleasant lane leading to Metaljka BIG 894. I reached a border control where the laid- back Bosnians were cooking sausages by the side of the road. I didn’t dare ask for one. One handled my passport, gave it a cursory glance with a one word ‘hummf’ and handed it back, lifting the barrier. From there I continued on up through the tree lined route to eventually reach the Montenegro checkpoint where I was kept waiting for some reason. I told them I only wanted to cycle to the top of the road then back again. My passport was stamped and carried on 200 metres to the top among the trees and returned but this time no customs officer emerged. So according to officialdom I’m still in Montenegro weeks later as I wasn’t checked out. I wondered what would happen a few days later when I approached the Montenegro border again… Returning back down, my passport was checked again entering Bosnia then I returned to the car and drove on for Cemerno hoping that I could squeeze in the climb of Cemerno BIG 895 before darkness fell. I parked up at Tjentiste as there was only two hours of daylight remaining but took my lights to be cautious. Cycling the west bank of the Drina river then climbing away west I made it to the yellow Cemerno plate and returned as night fell. From there back over Cemerno and south to the next town to look for accommodation – I needed a shower after two nights in a car! I found a motel at Gacko and thought it would be splashing out but the cost was only 20.00€ - with breakfast! Why was I sleeping in the car? I strolled down the hill after taking a shower and ate well in an isolated restaurant – and it was Italian! I enjoyed a really good steak, chips and side salad with a couple of local beers and went back to the hotel happy and slept easily.
Tuesday 8th September 2015 Gacko to Berane
Breakfast was a lonely affair. The two members of staff were sitting at a table in the corner supping coffee and smoking while I helped myself to the Spartan offering. I made do with bread and jam with some coffee then back to the main hotel building and lumbered the rucksack from the room to the car. I drove back down to the small town, took a left and soon on the edge of town. I came to a road junction indicating Trebinje straight on and Niksic to the left. I took the left then passed through barren countryside of scrubland seeing only two other cars and reached the Montenegro border near Kazanci – a few buildings standing alone in the barrenness. I continued on and eventually reached the Trebinje to Niksic road and plenty of traffic. I was stuck behind a convoy of lorries so parked up for a while at a viewpoint high up and overlooking a vast expanse of lake and mountain to the south. Others were there taking photos so perhaps a known beauty spot. Just before Niksic I took a right indicated for Zabljak. This leads north to enter the Durmitor National Park north of Savnik. Through Slatina to Virak and an innocuous turning off to the left – missed at first so doubled back. Virak only consists of a few houses and scattered farms. There was a slight confusion here to find the road to Durmitor Sedlo, BIG 902. From the main road shortly after a turn to the right on the narrow open road left then the next left. This is the road that leads to the col, I parked the car at the second road junction. At first the road climbs a little past a farmstead then after passing over a cattle grid the hedges give way to a wide expanse of mountain ridge as far as the eye can see. I traversed the right hand slope of the valley as it curves upwards to the ridge on the right. I could see ahead where the road would go as it bends round to the left then a right swing to the saddle, hidden until the end of the valley was reached. About halfway stands a solitary tall slender building to the left of the road that turned out to be a café. It wasn’t much use to me as I didn’t have any Montenegran currency – or so I thought but found out later that I was in Euroland. There’s one switchback close to the end then the wooden sign indicating Durmitor Sedlo could be seen on the embankment to the left of the road at the top. There’s no café or other building here but the view both ways really made up for it, especially the view back down from where I came as I could see the long sweep down the mountainside crowned by a conical hill on the left at the foot of the upper valley. The silence at the top was interrupted by a group of bikers that parked in the lay-by opposite so it was time to go and I freewheeled back down and to the car. some motorists were confused at directions to the saddle where I parked so was happy to direct them. From there I returned to Niksic, taking a left through the town and on to Podgorica, the former Titograd until 1992 after the death of Tito. I passed through the city but wish I hadn’t as I passed the long slow queue of traffic coming the other way then realising I had come the wrong way and was heading south when it should have been north. I had to join the long queue and patiently wait my turn. At the crossroads I took a right and was then heading north. I soon found out that I needed to follow signs for Kolasin to enable me to park up and cycle the road to Crkvine BIG 904 At 4.00pm I parked up at Bloce north of the capital as there was not only very few places to park but also that it was far too busy with traffic near the city. I had to ask the way of some police (who were busy booking a driver in front of me!) Following that I missed a direction sign for Kolasin and came to roadworks where I had to drive on the pavement following a helpful local in his small clapped out car who cleared the way ahead of me and directed me back to the correct road. I wasn’t happy about the approach to Crkvine. The area is industrial and noisy, not helped by much of the road passing through gorges. The gorges themselves were interesting but the road was unpleasant. I was glad eventually to reach higher ground, especially to escape the series of tunnels which are scary on a bike with so much traffic on the road. The road leaves the valley and climbs abruptly to the top of the pass through a few more tunnels but less traffic. At the top is the summit marker and a café on the right. A police car was lurking behind the café to pounce on speeding motorists. I took the usual photos then turned tail back down to the car. Daylight was fading now at 6.30pm but I reached the car before dark, just as well as I didn’t take the bike lights with me. The tunnels in fading light were not a pleasant experience but at least I could pass through at a good speed. With the bike back in the car I returned back up to Crkvine where the police had now disappeared so was wary of my speed just in case he was parked ahead of me somewhere. I drove down the other side of the pass and eventually reached Berane and booked into the first hotel I found, Luka’s Hotel on the left as I came into the town. I enjoyed a pasta meal of chicken, saffron, courgettes and almonds with wine – all for under £10 - after a shower and change and phoned Ruth later. I stayed in the hotel, read and had an early night.
Wednesday 9th September 2015 Berane to Kapaonik
A really good night’s sleep followed by an excellent breakfast – eggs and bacon! My next climb was relatively close but it wasn’t easy finding it. I was looking for a road that led off the road through Berane so first of all retraced my route out of the town the way I came in last night but there was no turning, so went the other way through the town. I found a turning to the right and asked the way. This wasn’t the turning I was told but I was to carry straight on. This led along the long straight road to Andrijevica. I was confused here. I asked at a garage and they told me the way ahead was blocked due to rockfalls and if I wished to reach Murino for Cakor, my next climb, I should go back to Berane take the long diversion via Rozalje and Pec. I wasn’t willing to do that and it was a huge diversion that would set my schedule back. I risked going on and see just how bad the rockfall was. Andrijevica is a busy small town, people milling around everywhere, mainly shopping. I passed through and downhill to reach a wooded area and saw the first part of the rockfall. It was easily passable and the road wasn’t closed. I continued on slowly to the next and final section but this again was no problem. I arrived in Murino and took a left on a mini roundabout by a café. The road here is very narrow but 100 yards along the road I found a place to turn the car round and park up alongside the road at 09.00. I pulled out the bike and assembled the front wheel for the climb of Cakor BIG 900. This was a climb I really enjoyed. The road is narrow but a good surface and wasn’t passed by a single car all the way to the road summit. This climb was one of my favourite in the Balkans. It took me three hours to make the climb and eventually reached the top where the road makes a sudden turn to the left at a war monument. Cakor village before the top is a few kilometres lower on the mountain slope. I thought when I reached it I was nearing the top but there was plenty more climbing to do as I passed through dense woods to emerge at the top in a clearing and a great view over the other side at midday. In less than an hour I was back down to car through farm country and returned to Berane the same way, carefully passing the rockfalls. In Berane I explored the centre then went past my hotel and took a right turn for Rozalje.This was open country, only a few villages. Eventually I reached the Serbian border at Spifjani where there was some delay then on to Ribarice where I took a left for Novi Pazar. This was an interesting place. It has a run-down appearance of strings of old shop hoardings and too many people so had to drive slowly through. The place resembles something like ‘out of Africa’. I patiently followed a slow moving lorry for some distance towards Raska and was conscious of time. I really wanted to cycle Kapaonik BIG 898 and reach there before dark. At Raska, another dishevelled town, I took a right for Rudnica at the foot of the Kapaonik climb. Here were just wooden buildings and a rail stop. I began to wonder what I would find at Kapaonik. I decided to drive to the top at 15.00 to find out then freewheeled back down to Rudnica to cycle back up at 16.00. I was grateful that there were hotels at the top so I would stay up there for the night. The climb was quite a tough one but I was determined to climb my final Serbian BIG. The first section has 6 hairpins followed by a steady climb to three more at Novo Selo village, finally reaching a road junction then a right turn to the top. At the top are many hotels and took photos here where the BIG indicates the location of the top, however the way up is further. I continued on to a dip in the road with a large white and wood building on the right the past the mast on the left to a position where the road begins to go down the other side to Brzece. By now it was becoming dusk but had time to take more photos before returning to the car parked at a wooden bridge over the road. Before this though I’d taken a right turn on the way down at the road junction passed on the way up – I’d gone the wrong way! I only discovered my mistake after a further 4km down so retraced my way then took a right and back to the car and it was now dark at 19.00. I was so glad I parked the car next to a bridge over the road as it was total darkness here. I went down a little further, this time in the car and enquired in the main hotel complex area for a room. I was offered an apartment for 16€ but I needed somewhere to eat also, and breakfast in the morning. Down a little further and found a homely smaller place and restaurant called Komita. I bought a local beer for 180 dinar. That evening I had a set meal of Hungarian goulash and a soup with ¼ litre of red wine and a comfortable but very basic room and breakfast all for 20€. The room was so basic that the shower was over the toilet so had to plan when to have that shower. The owner in there was friendly, he was telling me he served in the Serbian army but didn’t agree with the politics but had to keep his mouth shut because of possible recriminations to himself and his family. He proudly told me of his grandfather’s actions fighting in the Yugoslav resistance in WW2. He said he had a brother who worked in London but then don’t they all! It was very cold that evening when I took a short walk to a nearby large hotel just to compare prices. The four star Spa Hotel was charging 24€ but no evening meal or breakfast so knew I was getting a bargain. During the night it became foggy and even colder but I was snug in my room, sleep came easily.
Thursday 10th September 2015 Kapaonik to Ginovej near Bulgarian border
It was a good breakfast, simple but filling. I loaded up the car at 08.30 and drove back down the mountain. I was low on diesel and asked for the nearest garage before I left – there wasn’t one before reaching the main road at the foot of the climb. It became apparent, however that on the way down the diesel quantity indicator was rising in kilometres so it had been estimating on the way up if I continued on going up I would need the fill but on the way down it was increasing again. I still had approx 100km of diesel in the tank but thought it prudent to fill up again at the next garage I saw. From Kapaonik down to Rudnica then took a left heading south for the Kosovo border and found a filling station just after the border where I was made to buy a border insurance policy for 12.71€. The attendant at the petrol station at Lesak was unable to insert the filling nozzle into the tank and this scared me. There were police sitting in the small café and I asked them to help. They couldn’t get the nozzle in either. I was told that there was another larger garage 9km further on towards Kosovska so feeling a bit anxious continued on to that point. The attendant there managed to fill up with diesel but it was a slow process, it only trickled in and he showed me that the cap to the tank was nearly closed. Later on however, at the next fill the following day there was no problem. I believe it was the extreme cold at the top of Kapaonik and with the car exposed overnight that the cap had sealed itself. I continued on, much relieved, into Pristina the capital of Kosovo. There was traffic congestion all the way to Urosevac. I didn’t want to use up time in Kosovo’s capital so continued following a slow moving fruit lorry until I reached a right turn for Tetevo. The road climbs and reaches the Macedonian border at Jazince. Before crossing I bought a burger and coke from the café and feeling very safe among a group of loud teenagers with a group of border guard police sitting at the next table – until they got up to leave – so I did too! It was a long road from here through woods and it was raining slightly. I reached busy Tetovo and caught up in traffic jams in the town, I asked police at the side of the road the way through to reach Papova Sapka to begin my next climb. I was directed through the town then take a right at the next roundabout then continue on. I found this easily enough but it took me a while in the queue. At the roundabout turn I was free of the traffic but then came to a crowded fruit market jam packed with people trying to avoid the pot holed road holding mud puddles. It was amusing watching women in nice shoes trying to avoid the mud but unsuccessful. I had to crawl at snail’s pace to avoid people but once free of them I drove up the sudden rise at the other side of the market and parked up on the left at furniture store and asked permission to park indicating that I’d like to cycle up to Papova Sapka, BIG 905 and would be gone for two hours. The girl in there agreed and it was a safe place to leave the car. It took me two and half hours from Tetevo to Papova Sapka ‘The Priest’s Hat’ and half an hour back down. I reached the ski resort and I had a lot of rain on the way back down. It was fortunate that I had more than one pair of cycle shoes because those had to dry off for a couple days. From Tetevo I drove the motorway to Skopje but avoided the city and continued on for the Bulgarian border via Kumanovo where I took the normal road east in total darkness to reach Ginovej and a hotel on the left. This was a good choice as there was no other place to stay until the approach to Sofia the following day. I filled up with diesel and accommodation here was extremely cheap at less than 17€ and it was a great place to stay and ate well.
Friday 11th September 2015 Ginovej to Karlovo
This morning I drove from Ginovej to the Bulgarian border then into barren open countryside sliding downhill into I didn’t know what, I’ve never been to Bulgaria before. The only link I had with it was watching Great Uncle Bulgaria in the Wombles when I was a bit younger, however I didn’t see much rubbish around the country. From the Gyueshevo checkpoint it was a drive down a long empty road to Garlyano then over Kanyavski Prohod and into the suburbs of Sofia. The main road in and through to the city is cobbled and on a busy tram route. I was confused without sat-nav and relied on my too small a scale map to show any detail to head for my cycling this morning up to Aleko Vitosha BIG 935 overlooking the city. I asked directions from parked up taxi owners and eventually found the road for Boyana church at the foot of the climb, south west from the centre, passing Boyana film studios on the way. I was told to follow the number 64 bus route and sure enough these buses were plenty and kept me on the correct route. I parked in the cobbled square on the right where there were many yellow taxis and cycled the cobbled road up the mountain in thick fog. This wasn’t a pleasant experience as I was cycling with no view forward or back and enveloped by a canopy of fir trees, it wasn’t a pleasant ride and should have been. I was so looking forward to a pleasant ride with a view of the city down below and I had no intention of coming to cycle this route again. I reached the ski station at the top in zero visibility. Maybe some year in the future I’ll have the opportunity to visit the capital again. Apart from its proximity to the country capital Sofia, another reason why Vitosha is so popular with the Bulgarian mountaineers is hidden behind the historical leg. In 1897. popular Bulgarian journalist, writer and mountaineer Aleko Konstantinov published in local newspaper a manifesto in the name of "Vesela Balgarija" (the "cheerful Bulgaria" ) club, inviting anyone who might feel interested, to climb the Cherni Vrah on Vitosha at Sunday noon exactly, in order to establish an Alpine club. That occured just 2 years after Konstantinov's failed attempt to establish Alpine club at national level. To his amusement, more than 300 hundred people saw his manifesto and climbed the Cherni Vrah peak. Right at the spot, they've founded first Alpine club of Sofia. 20 years later, Bulgarian alpine club already counted 8000 membership. Bulgarians tributed their mountaineering pioneer by naming one of the most important peaks in Rila massif "Aleko". Main chalet on Mt. Vitosha is also named after him "Aleko chalet" and in his hometown Svishtov a small museum was founded, hosting various momorabilia from Mr. Konstantinov life. If you ever visit Bulgaria and decide to change some cash into local currency, you may have a handgrip on Aleko Konstatinov, hence he is featured on the front side of 100 Leva banknote ( Back side of the banknote features various Bulgarian mountain trekking movement motifs).
Returning to the car 3 hours later in the early afternoon I drove away from Sofia on the Burgas road, however this wasn’t easy to find. I had to join the queues of traffic threading the way stop/starting through numerous interchanges to reach the ring road then away from the city, picking up speed because of lost time. I stopped near Zlatista to admire and photo a huge communist edifice in a clearing to the right - and also to recover having been shaken by a car overtaking me on the inside on a rising road. I was really angry at this as I could easily have had an accident. Later at approx 15.00 I reached Karnara and parked up in a roadside clearing below trees a short way up the start of the climb north of the village. I rode the first 8km then returned as the rain became fierce and hadn’t taken sufficient rain covering. I returned to the car and drove back up to the point I reached then cycled the remaining upper section in full protective rainwear. I needed it and although I managed some road photos and reached the top of the road I couldn’t see the white arch monument. I returned back the same way and could hear thunder with the lightening in the valley below. I returned back to the car just as it was becoming dark and drove into the ferocious thunderstorm and carefully and slowly drove down the mountain then east along the valley to Karlovo. In my Lonely Planet Bulgaria guide I read of the best hotel in the town, Sherev Hotel. This was in the prime position and central on the town square so opted for that. It was still raining and I parked up at the town hall and grabbed my rucksack for the short walk to the hotel in a pedestrian area and booked in. I ate at the restaurant next-door and had a wonderful meal. Prices were inexpensive by western standards and had a comfortable night’s sleep while the rain continued.
Saturday 12th September 2015 Karlovo to Plovdiv
Today it was clear weather for a change and I was up early to take advantage of it. I had a coffee from the bar next to the hotel then drove away at 08.00 heading east for Shipka, taking a left at Gabarevo and parked up at the edge of Shipka at 09.00. The way up is through dense tree cover. Sipcenski Prohod or Shipchensky Prokhod or Shipka Pass, BIG 937, 13km along a winding road north of Shipka village is the Shipka Pass, 1306 metres then 900 steps leads to the top of Mount Stoletov, 1326 metres, dominated by the impressive 32 metre high Freedom Monument. It was built in 1934 as a memorial to the 7000 Russian troops and Bulgarian who, in August 1877, died while successfully repelling numerous attacks by 27000 Turkish soldiers desperately trying to relieve their besieged comrades in Pleven. I reached the ram-shackled row of buildings with some cafes and gift shops with the hotel on the other side of the road on the left then I took an acute right turn and up to the monument at 11.00 a.m. clouded in thick mist. I did manage however to take some photos of the monument surrounded by cannon. I returned back down to the car at Shipka in 40 minutes then drove back to Karlovo for the roads south towards Plovdiv. I was told at a garage near Paval Banya that the road through Brezevo to Plovdiv is damaged and should go back to Karlovo. Here I took the road as far as Trud then on to the E80 motorway at top speed then leaving it at Pazardzhik where I became so totally confused through the busy streets. I asked a young family just getting into their car where the road was for Dospat. They told me to follow them as they were going that way, at least to the edge of Pazardzhik. At the edge I left them and waved thanks. It was bit like how an airplane pulling a glider releases it in mid flight, and I was now winging my way south. After Peshtera the road takes on a different aspect as the car purred up the Batashka Planina on a narrow road through woods to reach the Dospatski Prohod then down to Dospat Dam. At Dospat I parked by the white and gold crowned mosque to check for directions to Devin for the final bike climb today. The way forward was a left hand turn at a fork junction through the village and I passed through an interesting scenic area over hilly country with lush grass and streams and eventually reached Nastan and the shape of an elephant’s trunk in the white rock to left of the road just before the road junction and the start of my next cycle climb to Snezhanka, BIG 942. I parked by the road junction and cycled 14km following the river upstream to picturesque Shiroka Laka where I took some photos of the wooden bridges and quaint buildings alongside the river, white facades and wooden roofs, then further on up to the ski resort hotels at the lower point of Snezhanka at Pamperovo. There are numerous hotels here and the music piping from Hotel Finlandia made it especially inviting. I was tempted with the thought of booking in here and cycling to Snezhanka but this would set me back on tomorrow’s programme as I would have to go back for the car. I cycled the short distance up to Snezhanka. The way up the remainder of the climb was totally unexciting, it’s gone to ruin. The ski resort has seen better days. There are collapsed buildings, even collapsed street lighting and the road up is full of potholes. After Studenets and dilapidated hotels and on to a better road west and to the radio mast above the woods. It was becoming dusk at this point so had to return to the car at Nastan promptly. In Nastan I returned to Pamperovo and over the top to join the main road to go north to Plovdiv. It was dark now. At Narechenski Bani is one of the most famous balneological and climatic resorts for treatment and prophylaxis of the functional disorders of nervous system –m thanks but will stick to cycling! Through Asenovgrad next and looked for a hotel but didn’t find so continued on to Plovdiv at 21.30 to search there. One I found near the city centre was uninviting and I got the vibes so found the biggest and best next to the city casino, Hotel Leipzig – could be expensive but wasn’t at Bulgarian prices, only £33 with evening meal enjoyed on the top floor with a view of the city below. It was four star luxury at one star price.
Sunday 13th September 2015 Plovdiv to Melnik
After an excellent buffet breakfast I drove out of the secure car park and realised how fortunate I was because the driver side window was open all night! Away to the right and north along the Ruski Boulevard passing a park where a statue high on a hill should be photographed, perhaps a communist hero. I crossed the river and took a left on Bulgaria Boulevard that led me on to the Sofia motorway and I was retracing yesterday’s route as far as Pazardzhik but this time continued on to the next exit for Kostenets heading for the Rila Mountains and my first cycle climb of the day. I asked police the way through for Samakov. The road west gradually climbs through a forested area to reach the ski resort of Borovets where I took a right for the top ski resort of Beli Iskar but needn’t have done this as it would have been quicker to continue to Samokov. I had some trouble finding the correct road through the next village, Govedartsi. I should have continued on the lower ground following the river at the junction where there is a fence of upright skis. Eventually I found the correct road and parked up west of the village for climb to Maljovika Complex, BIG 938. After a few kilometres following the river I entered the forest area passing many people picnicking and barbecuing in the woods, many cars parked alongside the road. Eventually, on a climb the road to Maljovika goes off to the right and soon ends at a dusty turning point and a simple wooden café to the left. I asked in there if this was the top and they confirmed. It’s a busy place with cars everywhere and plenty of people eating in the café, Vada Hut. I turned tail and back down to Govedartsi and drove on through Samakov then took a left for Dupnitsa, passing to the north of the Rila Mountains on a flat road west. Once there I was on the Sofia to Greece road that was extremely busy. I was glad to leave it at the turn off for Kocherinovo, passed through and took a right for Stob village to a small car park by a white church on the other side of the village. Parking, I took a short walk on the well worn path to view Stob’s Pyramids.
The Stob Pyramids are a natural rock phenomenon (a set of earth pyramids) located 7 km (4.3 mi) to the northeast of the village. The Pyramids have been under state protection since 1964 as a protected site encompassing 74,000 m2 (800,000 sq ft). The Pyramids are rock formations up to 12 m (39 ft) high and around 40 cm (16 in) thick at the base. They vary in shape from sharp through conical to mushroomlike. Some of the columns are topped by flat stones. Groups of individual Pyramids have been named The Towers, The Pinnacles and The Samodiva Chimneys.
According to a popular local legend, the pyramids are in fact wedding guests who were petrified because the bride was so beautiful that the best man attempted to kiss her. Based on the legend, the local population has identified some of the pyramids as the best man, the groom, the bride and other attendants of the wedding ceremony
From here a short distance to Rila and parked at a grass verge and bundled out the bike again for the second climb to Rila Monastery or Rilski Monastir BIG 939. This was a pleasant ride gradually up through the woods to reach the huge monastery at the top. The road becomes cobbled as it skirts around the left side of the monastery wall and there are numerous gift shops selling icons and other paraphernalia. I was amazed to see so many Japanese camera clickers here, how do they get to know about such places and why do they buy catholic souvineers? I couldn’t go into the courtyard in my cycling garb but took a look from the two gateways either side and took photos. There were men at the entrances dissuading people entering who were dressed inappropriately. The road continues on up and narrower the other side of the monastery for a few kilometres following the Rilska river however this is the recognised top of the BIG. I returned back to the car, loaded up and drove back to the in Rozen vmain Sofia road to rejoin the mad traffic. It was slow progress until I reached the turning for Polenitsa and my objective for the day at Melnik. At least the main road bypasses the towns on the way south. Through Polenitsa I was on country lanes and soon reached Melnik. The first sight was more sandstone pyramids. I drove on up to Rozen village to see accommodation there but thought better of it and booked in at Hotel Melnik, the biggest in the village and overlooking the valley where the village continues on upstream. Again it was a reasonable price- £15.73 on my bank statement – and I ate a pasta later after dark in one of the outside cafés alongside the stream. After phoning Ruth and reading for a while I had an early night as tomorrow was a long day and hoped to reach Resen west of Prilep in Macedonia.
Monday 14th September 2015 Melnik to Prilep
After a hearty breakfast buffet on the hotel veranda I left the car at the hotel and cycled down the steep cobbled drive into the village at 08.00 then along the really scenic road to Rozen village passing through another small village, Karlanovo, on the way. I couldn’t help notice the old Trabant perched high on a rock in the village by the side of the road. On the way to Rozen Monastir BIG 940 the road resembles an inland seaside – sand everywhere but a good road surface. There are so many demoiselles coiffées ("ladies with hairdos") on the way to Rozen. Here they are called Melnishki Paramidi. The formation consists of a number of hoodoos, described as a set of narrowly-tapered rock columns....topped with a large rock balanced neatly on the tip. The last time I saw these strange objects was in Pontis near Embrun in the French Alps located on the edge of the Lac de Serre-Poncon. They are such strange geological formations they have stayed in my mind. It was a very warm day so stopped in the village for a coke then cycled the final steep kilometre to the small monastery. I chatted with a young couple who took an interest in my bike as I was taking a photo at the padlocked metal gate to the monastery. They suggested I follow them to the left where there was a stone archway and another way into the monastery. Unlike Rilski I was free to walk into the church and observe a chanting and incense waving priest but photos were not allowed. It was too dark in there anyway. The approach to the monastery is a small road between a grassy meadow but on the way down there’s a fabulous view across the mountain range to the east. Back down to the village and up a way then down from the middle village back to Melnik and the hotel. I drove off along country lanes to. Katuntsi village and asked the way to Gotse Delchev, the town on the other side of Popski Preslop BIG 941. It was a left turn in front of shops then a level road for a while following a river upstream through woods to the foot of the climb, I had left the car near Katuntsi at Gorno Spanchevo and returned the same way. The road became wider and there are many turns on the way up there but it’s an open road with plenty of views. At the top is a statue that seems the epitome of communism. The Bulgarian flag flutters from the base. After the usual photos I returned down to the car and met my first refugee sighting, an older couple walking down from Popski Preslop towards Katuntsi. The man was desperately waving me down with both arms but no way could I stop even though I felt very sorry for them. I drove on through Katuntsi to Marino Pole then across the main road to Petrich then across no man’s land to the Macedonian checkpoint at Zlatarevo. To use up my remaining Bulgarian currency, only 10 lev I bartered at the border for a ham sandwich, packet of biscuits, a beer and a 2 litre bottle of coke – approx £4 the lot. From the border it’s a country road to busy Strumica and a left turn at traffic lights for an ascent to Valandovo then the Skopje road to Gradsko. Some confusion as my map doesn’t show the new road and almost ended up on a track heading for Udovo but turned back for the road north. A diesel fill at Negotino then on to Gradsko and left for Prilep. Trying to follow an out of date map I passed through the centre of Prilep to the west side and seeing the road for Bitola I took the road the opposite direction that I thought led to Babuna – how wrong I was! I parked up at the west side of the town and cycled totally the wrong way to Dunje on a road going south. It was a very pleasant ride but in this direction I was heading straight for the Greek border. The road rises over really scenic countryside and took some great views of the sunset on the way back. Back to the car and took the main road the skirts south of Prilep to the east side and asked at a garage for directions to Babuna. I was given detailed instructions. I was to take a right turn here from the garage and take the road to the centre, taking a right off the Bitola road then at the first roundabout took a right – third turning – then a right again at the next roundabout with a giant globe on a pedestal in the centre, again third turning then continued as far as the white mass ahead which is a quarry of white stone blocks. At this point the road becomes a track of fine white stone. This is the old road over to Veles. I would come back to this in the morning and cycle the Babuna Pass. Following this, now after dark, I drove to the centre and asked in the street tourist information office for the location of hotels. The girl in their spoke perfect English and was able to give me direction to the first one called Crystal Palace to the west of the centre, however the receptionist there told me there were no vacancies so I spread the town map out on the car front under street lighting to look for a second hotel. A local man who bore a striking resemblance to Andy G came across to help. He couldn’t speak a word of English and there wasn’t much hope as my Serbo-Croat is zilch, however he insisted. He took me along to the same hotel but I told him I had already enquired there. He looked non-plus at me but just then a girl came to the rescue and interpreted. She told him to try the Hotel Salida to the south of the town. We went back to his car and he drove me there and asked for me at reception. Sure enough they had vacancies. We had a drink there then he drove me back to my car. Once there he came back in my car and of course he directed with shouts of ‘levo’ (left),’desno’ (right) and ‘pravo’(straight on) We had some laughs at this because by practising the turns and saying the words as well as banging the dashboard (!) I soon learnt the words. I could remember ‘gauch,’’links,’ ‘izquierda’, or ‘droite’, ‘rechts’’derecho’, or even ‘tout droit’, ‘geradeaus’, ‘todo recto’ but Serbo-Croat doesn’t come natural! Once there he asked for 200 diner, about 3.50€ just so that he could catch a bus back to his car. He was worth more than this and I gave him 500 diner, approx 8€. The receptionist told me that her earnings were 200€ a month at 8 hours a day, 6 days working and 8€ a day. At that calculation I just gave the Andy G look-alike the equivalent of a day’s pay for his hour and half assistance. No wonder he came back to the reception later when I received a phone call to go down there. He came back to say that if I needed any further help he would be happy to assist me! I enjoyed a quiet meal with a bottle of wine in the hotel restaurant and slept well.
Tuesday 15th September 2015 Prilep to Qafa e Llogorese
After omelette and coffee I was on my way to my first climb of the day and drove north to the centre then to the road, Boris Kidrich, leading to Babuna Pass, BIG 907. After the end of the tarmac road at the quarry to the left I was at a crossing of tracks and the way was forward on fine white quarry stone but was easy to cycle, much of it loose small stone. Eventually the road rises as it passes a small monastery on the right. I had a look in the grounds later when I returned back to Prilep. The road isn’t steep, just as well on the stony surface. Most of the way the route is open country, just bushland so it was good views all the way. The road summit wasn’t too inspiring. It’s in a bit of a cutting and descends down the valley on the other side. When I was there all I had for company was a shepherd in the near distance leading his sheep to higher pasture – that and a clapped out car minus the wheels. I was truly in the back of beyond and was hard to think that once this was the main road between Prilep and Veles. Perhaps it’s the proximity of the stone quarry that’s put paid to the through route. I returned back to the car by the quarry then back to Prilep and through the town on the old road leading to Bitola. Again I was at fault with an old map. I could see a parallel busy road to my left and knew that’s where I should be but couldn’t find a way on to it. If I continued along here I would be in Obrsani to the west when I needed to head south. Soon I found a junction then I was on the correct road. I passed straight through Bitola then headed west for Resen and my second cycling exploit. The road continued on for the huge lakes south of Ohrid but I took a right for Resen.
From Resen to Bukovo BIG 906, through built up area after the town where I couldn’t park so continued through Jacovic then parked on the left under trees and cycled to the top, nothing eventful. This is a busy wide main road between dense tree cover. The top was reached but nothing of any significance. It’s marked by a large black wooden hut among the trees at the top on the left, back down from this point to the car then drove back over Bukovo to Ohrid then along the north shore of Ohridsko Ezero to Struga then left the lake uphill on a long empty road to the Albanian border at Cafasan checkpoint. I changed some money at the border and waved off. What was I letting myself in for? It was a surprising long descent from here down the Thanes Pass Prenjas. It didn’t seem so far up coming from Ohrid Lake.There’s a great view looking down the valley from the pass. I followed the river valley to Elbasan then took a left at Bradashesh for the road over to Rrogozhine. There were market stalls here on the side of the motorway. On the busy motorway from Rrogozhine to Vlora heading south through Albania I was amazed that cars allowed to go to a 120kph speed limit could share the road with cyclists going in the opposite direction, but even more amazing were shepherds herding their sheep and goats across and at one point wild goats meandering across the motorway. In the slow lane were horse pulled wagons – well I suppose it’s a motorway that allows some horsepower. I was flagged down by the police towards Vlora and I objected saying I was not speeding, I was only doing 80kph. The policeman reached in and switched on my headlights and I breathed a sigh of relief. The new motorway only goes as far as Vlora on the coast but could see that this is being extended. Currently the dusty streets of Vlora are the only way south. This is a busy town and there are no clear directions of where the main road passes through and there are turnings to take. The main street is a wide dual carriageway and very dusty and noisy, the two headed black eagle motif of Albania is everywhere on metal structures. Through the other side of town though it’s a complete contrast as the road hugs the dramatic coastline for many miles to Orikum. From Vlora to Dukati its 45km and at the foot of Qafa e Llogorese BIG 944. From here it’s an interesting rise up a few hairpins however by far the most dramatic side is the south ascent but that would have to be left until tomorrow. I drove to the top for the view, took a few photos with the setting sun then drove down 8km to the start of the climb again and found a simple hotel in the woods to the right on the way down. I booked in then cycled back up to the top, telling them I was climbing the Lollobrigida which they appreciated being Italian. This is not the BIG recognised climb but it was still an effort and as it was gathering dusk the heat of the day was gone so it was a fairly easy climb to the top then back down having worked up an appetite. I enjoyed a good meal in the hotel, pasta carbonara and wine, phoned Ruth, read a while then an early night for an early start in the morning.
Wednesday 16th September 2015 Qafa e Llogorese to Kotor
Leaving the hotel and the car I cycled back up the north side of Qafa e Llogorese BIG 944 and slowly descended to Dhermiu taking in the view and many stops to take photos. It’s an open road with great views all the way down to Dhermiu. The white buildings from a distance look better than they are close up. I sat on the golden sand for a while and ate a little then psyched myself up for the return trip. It took me 2.½ hours to reach Qafa e Llogorese and back over to the hotel. It was now midday and needed to push on to reach my next objective, Shkodër and Rozafa Fortress. Driving back through Vlora I was on the motorway heading for Durres but by-passed by keeping to the main road. After Durres I headed for Tirana but turned off to the left at Vore heading north then to Lezhe which I mistook for Shkodër Rozafa Fortress when I saw the castle there. I parked up and asked a policeman controlling traffic. I still had 40km to reach Shkodër. Once there I could see the fortress on the approach to the town. This is the second largest town in Albania and I was fortunate to find the start of the climb to Rozafa Fortress BIG 943 as soon as I entered. I parked the car on the side road just below the fortress and removed the bike just as somebody parked in front of me and was entering their house. I asked for permission to park and that I would be two hours maximum. It was just as well as this area is private parking on Rruga 6 Maji. It may only be a short rise to the fortress but it extremely steep and cobbled on Rruga Kalase to the gateway into the castle, after rounding the corner to the right from Rruga Qafes. I can proudly say I stayed on the bike all the way to the gateway. Somebody shouted to me “Eddy Merckx”, “no,” I said, “Sir Bradley Wiggins”. At the gateway I had to beg, I didn’t have any Albania lev remaining. There was no problem but I had to leave my bike at the entrance. It wasn’t permissible to even walk with it into the grounds of the fort. It was difficult to walk the round uneven cobbles in the castle area because of my shoe plates so had to tread carefully. After a look around and photo clicking I returned back to the bike and walked down to the souvineer sellers. I fancied an Albania flag for my collection so took a look and found what I wanted but had to go back to the car for 2€ to pay for it. It now has pride of place at home. Being interested in history and some legend it was interesting to read the account on the BIG website under ‘more’ on Rozafa BIG. I returned to car and made the mistake of passing through the town centre and was amazed at the number of local cyclists crossing the intersections seemingly oblivious to the faster traffic. I slowed down to snail’s pace to let them pass but there were so many of them like bees round nectar. I passed through the town but was on the road for Podgorica not Ulcinj so asked at a garage and was directed back. What I needed was the road over the river then left to Murigan checkpoint to enter Montenegro. It was some distance along here through small villages but eventually reached the border. I took a right turn for Krute that led me on high ground above Ulcinj to Stari Bar on a narrow road but this was more direct. From there to Sveti Stefan along the coast and a supermarket stop for evening snacks and drinks then further along the coast to Budva and inland to Kotor to look for a hotel. I parked up just outside of the town where there were no parking restrictions then walked to the tourist information kiosk by the town wall to ask about accommodation. They gave me several choices and the nearest was Hotel Marija through the main gate and to the left. I booked in and not surprised at more expensive price along the tourist coast, £36 for bed and breakfast. It was a good room though. I went back to the car and parked it on a safer area at a free car park on the water’s edge then trundled back with my rucksack to the room. Later after a shower and change I went exploring the interesting old city and ate a really good pasta at the main square and relaxed. Later I had a wander around the old streets and eventually back to the hotel, read, phoned Ruth and slept.
Thursday 17th September 2015 Kotor to Dubrovnik
After a good buffet breakfast at the hotel in Kotor I walked the harbour back to the car and drove a short distance to a petrol station on the right before the tunnel and asked the way to Njegosev Mausolej BIG 903. I was told that this was the road as I turned into the garage so continued on a short way and parked on the right at a lay-by then passed through Skaljari to reach Trojica then the 16 hairpins through the woods to reach the ridge above Kotor. I had company along the way by a girl from Cambridge who was cycling with her husband but he was a long way behind. She told me that he had suffered a heart attack some weeks ago but was determined to cycle the Balkans. Together they were cycling from Slovenia to Albania. I was anxious that he wasn’t behind us suffering but she assured me that he would be OK and would phone if there were problems. The doctors told him he needed to exercise and how! We rode on to the ridge then she met her son who was waiting so together they waited for her husband to appear. I passed them all a short distance later as they were admiring the view down to Kotor. I continued on to the café at the top where the road goes over to Cetinje. I had a coke and sausage at the café then took a right for Lovcen mountain and Njegosev Mausolej Come with us to visit his resting place, a mausoleum on Lovcen.
Only 30 km from the coast the relief of Montenegro has drastically changed in the rough and almost impassable karst area planisnskog massif Lovcen. This part of the boundary between the Montenegrin coast and continental areas, exposed to influences of the Mediterranean and continental climate. Cetinje town, situated in a karst field and is surrounded by cliffs and icy peaks of Mount Lovcen, which has for centuries been a battleground, and also the shelter of Montenegrins, the seat of the most important Montenegrin dynasty Petrovic Njegos, in which the Montenegrins are very proud. Huxley, the fifth member of the dynasty, certainly deserves a special place in the history and culture of Montenegro. I Njegos chose a special place for their rest, in order to continue watching their country and people.
It’s a further 12km to the mausoleum of the poet ruler, at first through woods then to a clearing where at one point is a wayside café and a place to buy local produce – honey and jam. The way forward takes on a rugged appearance through rocky scenery then a dip down to a road junction and an indication here of a final 2km steep ascent to the mausoleum and at this point another wayside café. From here it’s steeper and only at the last 500 metres the poets resting place can be seen. At the bottom of the steps and the end of the road at a vehicle turning point is a café and souvineer shop. An American from Chicago marvelled at my bike with its wide range of gears and took a photo of it and asked if I had cycled all the way up and promised himself that one day he would do the same. I remarked that he’s a long way from Chicago to return. I took my photos, had a walk up to the mausoleum and freewheeled back down the mountain except for the short climb at the road junction 2km from the top. It was a fantastic descent with glorious views of Kotor with some resemblance to Aurlandsvegan BIG 26 in Norway. Returning to the car I drove through Kotor and alongside the bay of Kotor to Risan. I asked the way of a young couple in a car the way to Orjen and was directed further on approx 5km towards Kamenari then to take a right at a road junction away from the bay. I should have known better and checked my map. I should have realised I needed to go through Risan streets inland and take the hairpins. I left the car at the road junction, cycled and took the road for Vilusi heading for Orjen Sedlo, BIG 901. A few kilometres along I took a road for Crkvice that leads off to the left at an acute angle and continued on as I could see from the map that if I passed through Crkvice I would reach Orjen. It did eventually but it was along a rough road that became a track. taking a left in Crkvice I soon came to a yellow indicator that pointed to Orjen. I took this and I was on a rough stony track that eventually led to the top. I know it wasn’t the correct route according to the map guide on the BIG website but at least I arrived! I retraced the same road back on the narrow lanes and reached the main road and the car, a 3 hour adventure. It was now becoming dark and wanted to reach Dubrovnik as soon as possible. I stopped in Herceg Novi at a supermarket to buy eats and drinks for the evening then drove on to the Croatian border then no man’s land then saw the welcoming lights of Dubrovnik way down below as the road is high above the coast. I drove down into the city but only a short way as I found an accommodation agency on the left so parked the car. they found me a bed and breakfast back up the hill but not far. It was off the main road that I came in on. The man who owns the house walked down to the agency and came back with me in my car. This meant having to go down into the city and back up again as this was a one way traffic system. Back to the main road and parking was a problem. We had to go on a short way to park then walk back a kilometre to where we stepped over a crash barrier and to his electric gate then down steps to the house. It was 22.00 but I needed to eat so walked down 400 steps to the city walls and to a recommended restaurant, the Mimoza opposite the Hilton Hotel. Here I enjoyed a large pasta and wine with 10% off with a coupon that my host gave me. Later I took a midnight walk around the city. The Stradun is just as I remembered from 20 (?) years ago and I wiped tears from my eyes! I was so happy to see the place again and walked to the capstan on the pier where I remember being so sorry to leave this beautiful place and hoped to return to one day – and here I was. I cherished the moment, bought an ice cream and wandered back to the steps and trudged up the hill back to my room at 1.00 a.m., dog tired and collapsed.
Friday 18th September 2015 Dubrovnik – Sveti Jura - Dubrovnik
It wasn’t a long night as I was up at 07.00 for 07.30 breakfast and away at 08.00. Breakfast was pleasant, shared with two pretty girls from Norfolk. They were going on a boat trip to Cavtat and going skin diving. I walked up to where the car was parked and drove along the coast north west through Neum, Bosnia’s port and resort then had a short stop at Gradac then to Podgora. The scenery along this route is fantastic and it was a pleasant drive. Neum is the only sizable built up area on the 133km drive to Podgora. The start of the climb to Sveti Jura, BIG 889 is the foot at the Luk petrol station on the right of the road in Podgora south side, road 512 starts behind the garage then it’s 5km to main road through Gornja Podgora, then took a right for 200 metres then a left turn to enter the national park. At the barrier I paid 25 kuna national park entrance fee and received a small DVD of the Bukovo area. From here through the woods then numerous hairpins to Vrata Biokova café on the left at 16km where I stopped for an ice coke then a further 7km to the top where there’s a huge radio mast after the hairpins on the conical mountainside resembling a huge helter-skelter for the final 2km. On the way following the café is a national park kiosk where I could sign the visitor’s book and buy water. I took a break at the viewpoint bench behind it. The climb was a fantastic experience and for sure my favourite climb of my two week tour. The mountain area is called Biokovo. At 2km from the top is another small café but closed today. When I reached the mast there was a crowd there celebrating with apples, coke and grapes at their cars. I asked them to take photos of me and they invited me to join in their celebration. I think they also celebrated my achievement! On the way down I was joined by another cyclist who waved at me from Vrata Biokovo café and we rode together to the national park barrier. It was dusk when I arrived back at the car and dark when I reached Drvenik. My day’s timing was Dubrovnik to Podgora 09.00 – 12.00, Podgora to Sveti Jura 12.00 – 18.00, Sveti Jura return to Podgora 18.00 – 19.00, Podgora to Dubrovnik 19.00 – 21.30. Returning the same way to Dubrovnik I parked at the same place as last night and walked the road to the accommodation. I changed then walked the steps down to the city and ate at the same restaurant then walked the Stradun. I would return and take time here in the morning but for now I was tired and walked the steps back to the digs and slept like a baby.
Saturday 19th September 2015 Dubrovnik to Zadar and home
After breakfast I walked back to the car and removed the bike and cycled down into Dubrovnik and explored. I was there for much of the morning and enjoyed the sights. Later I cycled the Ul Druge Dalmatinske Brigade away from Dubrovnik towards Cavtat to join the main road then left along the main road above the city and back to the car, leaving at 11.30. I now drove heading for Zadar Airport, 350 kilometres. Over the new cantilever bridge, Most dr Franja Tudmana, through Neum and over a border crossing for the final time and took a break at Gradac where I sunbathed on the beach for an hour then continued on, still continuing on road 8. The road hugs the coast most of the way, the only exception being where the road for Sarejevo strikes inland because of the marshes of a river outlet. I stopped at Podgora and stood on the bridge in the village to trace the road going up the mountain where I was yesterday. I drove into Split but joined the E65 road north of Klis to Zemunik and a left turn for Zadar Airport. At Zagrad I stopped at a rest area to bag my bike and clean out the car before reaching the airport. I arrived in good time and deposited the car. I had a fantastic time but really wanted to go home now! There was a delay with the plane due to an electronic malfunction in the cockpit. The plane took off but had to return after 15 minutes in the air. Back at the airport, all the checks were made but the flight window time was lost and Luton wouldn’t give clearance. The pilot took a unilateral decision to fly home and he was everybody’s hero. There was only a slight delay to the arrival time back in Manchester. Mark collected me from the airport. It was good to be back!