Pennine Wanderings, Penrith to Halifax May 2001
Saturday 5th May 2001 Penrith to Tan Hill, 2735 to 2805, 70 miles
07.15 train to Crewe, train came via Styal due to modernisation between Stockport and Wilmslow. From Crewe 07.50 train to Penrith. Chatted to a guy on the train taking his bike up to Glasgow and cycling the west coast to the far north. Told him my old fogy story of my trip from Glasgow to Durness 24 years ago. Hope I didn’t make him sleep past his stop. Train arrived in Penrith on time at 09.35. Had breakfast in MacDonald’s by the station. Left Penrith at 10.15, 10 miles to the first pass of the year, Hartside Cross, 1900 feet, a pimple in comparison to the Alps! Even so I reckon this was the truest pass of my tour over the Pennine high spots as far as Hebden Bridge. It has a defined road summit height marker and a welcome café at the top. As far as the Brevet International Grimpeur list of passes goes this is number 107 on my list. From here it was a long descent down to Alston. A picturesque Cumbria stone town nicely laid out on a small hill, a cobbled street with shops on either side. This is a place worth a stay sometime. A long way back up, with a view of Alston behind in the valley, and approaching Nanthead. Stocked up with orange juice in the bottles, further up some steep stretches where the road switchbacks to the top. Worth a picture at the Cumbria / Co Durham border at Alston Moor. From here over to Westgate where I was confused, couldn’t find the road over Westerhope Moor so asked the way. I was directed back to the Langdon Beck sign back in the village then I was on the road up to Westerhope Moor, short but steep then down to Barnard Castle along the valley. Now this really is a handsome small town with its castle walls and wide main-street of local stone. From here, over the bypass and through Story Woods, taking the turning off to the right to Tan Hill, a climb over the moorland to a very bleak and lonely pub in the middle of nowhere. I arrived at about 7.00pm. There were no beds left and the place was crowded. There were more people in here than outside within a 5-mile radius! After a really good meal of steak and chips and a local pint I had to share a room with a big fat chap and wished I didn’t as he snored all night – he had too much to drink. I retreated to the empty bar area with my mattress and covers and slept very well on the floor. I was asked the following morning if I slept soundly. “No”, I replied, “but he did, and plenty of it”.
Sunday 6th May 2001 Tan Hill to Halifax, 2805 to 2898, 93 miles
A smashing morning ride in the hills, setting off at 9.00 along the moor, freewheeling most of the way to Keld and Thwaite but a few ups along the valley through Muker. These are villages built in local stone that blend in with the land, a peaceful setting at the start of the day. Over a carpet of matting for the foot and mouth disease control and off to the right up a very steep hill between the stone walls, to Oxnop Moor then steeply down to Askrigg, James Herriot tourism village full of little shops and tourist attractions. From here I followed the road to Bainbridge along an easy route down the valley to just before Hawes, then just before the village turned off for Gayle, a very picturesque village and stream. On a bridge over the road is signposted Kettwell, 18 miles away. It is very steep up here to Fleet Moss, especially near the top. It is almost a straight road in its approach. Up and over and a long downhill to Kettwell. Loads of cyclists around at the teashops. I took a wrong turning at Threshfield and ended up at Craco. I tried to get a meal at a café but got fed up waiting, I continued on to Skipton where I had a carvery for £5.99 washed down with a blackcurrant and lemonade. Through Skipton, old grey stone buildings to Ilkley along the valley and a busy main road. In Ilkley I looked for the road for the Cow and Calf. I found it at the end of the town, a steep road that goes up to Ilkley Moor. I got a bit lost around Ilkley Moor that made it a long road over to Keighley. I ended up going too far east and had to come back again. Eventually steeply down to Keighley, not so busy on a Sunday.
I went past the railway stations and turned right for Ingrow and Haworth. It was a long hill up to Haworth. Arrived at 5.30, shops just shutting, too late to get liquorice for Ruth. Up the last steep hill through Oxenhope. It was a short but hefty climb to the top of Oxenhope Moor to complete another five more B.I.G. claims. At the top there is a weather station and laboratory where they measure the size of raindrops to check on global warming, and also to check on humidity factors and ozone depletion.
Long sweep down to Hebden Bridge. Made a big mistake here. I could have caught a train from here to Manchester but cycled on to Halifax up hill, thinking that Hebden Bridge was on a branch line. It is actually nearer to Manchester and I could have caught a train an hour earlier and been home for 8pm instead of 10.00, and not had to cycle from Crewe. Ah well!! The joys of cycling.