Friday 11th March 2016 Pico do Arieiro and Eira do Serrado
I was up early at 07.30 and away as soon as possible, didn’t take breakfast. Cycling away inland I followed the west canal along Rua 31 de Janeiro, a relentless gradient the whole way. I played safe and cycled on the pavement when I was clear of Funchal following Road ER103 to Poiso through Monte. Not sure if I did the right thing here but on reaching a roundabout I took the right turn for Monte as straight on led only into a factory and to the left was signposted Barcelos and knew that was too far to the west. In Monte I reached the cobbled area where the coaches gather and disgorges the tourists in front of a café and a cobbled way that leads steeply downhill to the right, back down to Funchal. I presumed this was the toboggan run. From there continuing up steeply to Terreiro and the site of the old railway to Monte then passed by Pico Alto where it was cloudy and cool for a few kilometres then to the national park area, past a building on the left then up through what seems to be burnt woods. Perhaps there was a forest fire here and it was over a widespread area. Eventually I reached the pub, a pink walled building on the left at a strategic road junction point at Poiso and the top of the road as from here on heading north the road descends through the woods to Riberio Frio and the trout hatchery where the fish swim like mad creating a whirlpool in the huge round tank. There were many people walking here as a long levada walk crosses at this point, from Balcoes to Monte. From here the road continues on down to Faial and much of the way the brilliant white air defence radar station perched high on the mountain ridge looking down on the valley. I turned back at Achada after a drink at the pub there. Back up to Poiso and took the much easier gradient road to the peak and the radar globe Pico do Arieira BIG 522. It was sunny now and brilliant blue sky but cloudy in the valley. On the way I noticed the stone built pit that looks like a huge igloo. This is called Poco da Neve and was built by an English family who used it to store ice and snow from the area, a bit like the one in Marbury country park in Cheshire. I finally reached the peak at approx 1.40pm and phoned Heiko Linnert from near the top to request his company on the climb to Eira do Serrado later in the day. I had the idea in mind to descend to Monte then take the road west to Pico dos Barcelos then up but as Heiko quite rightly said this would not only be a more difficult route but also the climb to Eira do Serrado begins at the waterfront in Funchal and we must play by the rules of the club! In my defence it would have been a more difficult route. At the top of Pico do Ariero I had breakfast – well – lunch at the café, chicken soup and toasted sandwiches (6€) then took the usual photos wheeling my bike up the ramp to the concrete stone and also the stone plaque with the height and peak name where I posed for photos by a girl I grabbed to take them. From there I was back down to Funchal at 2.40 in only 40 minutes. I’d arranged to meet Heiko back at Hotel do Carmo at 3.15 and was 5 minutes late! He phoned just before I reached the hotel. It’s a pity Anja and Christina couldn’t join him but I appreciated it was getting late in the day and Heiko was concerned that we shouldn’t return back through Funchal in the dark. We set off at 3.30 along the waterfront to the west then through the short tunnel onto Rua Dr Joao Brito Camara heading inland on road ER215 for Pico dos Barcelos then took a left on to Estrada Eira do Serrado for Eira do Serrado BIG 519 soon to leave the houses and into a wooded area. There were roadworks as workmen were busy shoring up the high roadside embankments. The road was closed to traffic but was open for cyclists with their eyes open. We had to be careful of moving earth moving plant equipment but at least we had a traffic free route up the climb, even if it was noisy. Along here we were joined by a dog that insisted on following us to the top, two kilometres away. His nose took a fancy to Heiko and he couldn't lose it, even when we quickened the pace. The mutt followed us all the way but we left it on the way down. It's a pity we didn't have our photo taken with our persistant mascot. We passed a new tunnel not marked on my old map, this leads directly across to the east and to the north section of Funchal. Heiko recommended we return that way later. On a bit further up the climb we came to a second tunnel that goes underneath Eira do Serrado to emerge in Curral das Freiras at the head of the valley. This small town completely encircled by the mountains was a safe haven a few hundred years ago from pirates invasions that would attack the coast. People were flying drones at the top of the pass and one person offered to take our photos as he saw us having difficulty taking a photo of the height marker with our faces next to it. We looked over to the valley below towards Curral das Freiras, the Nun’s Valley. The sun had gone down in the high valley now and it was getting cool so we had to be quick and left at 6.15 to get back down to the second tunnel and emerge at the north end of Funchal at Sao Martinho, still at a great height above the city. We parted company at the other end of the tunnel and I found my way through steep narrow streets in Santo Antonio and eventually back to the hotel at 8.00pm, dark along the waterfront so I cycled along the wide pavement. Heiko meanwhile had met with an unfortunate accident on his way back to Orca Praia Hotel, Ponta da Cruz. A woman walking on the bike lane started running just in front, oblivious to Heiko and clipped his right wrist and sent him flying and also caused damage to the bike. It was an unfortunate end to a good holiday after Azores and Madeira. Arriving back at 8.00pm, Ruth was waiting for me and we went down to the hotel restaurant and ordered oy to Heikomelette and chips. Later we relaxed on our balcony with beer and wine
Saturday 12th March 2016 Boca da Encumedea and Cabo Girao
Cycling away from the hotel at 8.30 I followed the road for Camara de Lobos but went too far inland. After going through the tunnel at the landward end of the harbour wall I went straight on, signposted Camara de Lobos nor thinking that this was the main road motorway route rather than the coast road. I should have taken a left when emerging from the tunnel. So heading inland I passed Pico dos Barcelos and was on Camino do Pilar past the hospital and found the way also led on to the motorway. I asked a taxi driver who told me to go back down then take a right before the tunnel – a pity it had taken me 30 minutes to struggle up here for no reason! I asked again at a garage and was told to take a left, pass the football ground to the left then descend Caminho do Regedor into Camara de Lobos. From there I saw the road, signposted Ribeira Brava, steeply up inland but knew this would be the motorway again so continued on into the village then inland and hailed a taxi that would take me through the Cabo Girao tunnel to Ribeira Brava. It was a large taxi for the bike and hardly waited a minute before it turned up – plenty of taxis around. The lady driver explained that the tunnel was a great boon to the west of the island as it opened up the route without having to go over the top. It took 30 minutes to pass under and I emerged at the road junction of motorway to the Sao Vicente road and the climb of the Boca da Encumedea BIG 520. She warned me not to take the right turn just before Serra de Agua as this would only lead to a tunnel under the Boca da Encumedea and bikes were not allowed. I had no intention of doing that but thanked her for the warning. The taxi fare was 30€ but well worth it. While we were getting my bike out slowly so as not to damage her seat backs folded down to accommodate my bike, an impatient woman was demanding a lift quickly and told me off for wasting her time. The taxi driver had strong Portuguese words for her as she didn’t want to damage the car! From there it was an easy read gradually up to Serre de Agua where the real climb starts and the difficult part of the climb can be seen ahead at this point to Pousada. It took me from 11.00 to 1.00pm to reach the top. At Hotel Encumedia about 2km from the top I called at the posh hotel to ask for some string to tie my jacket to the saddle for posterior comfort – I was hurting bad. The waiter put down his tray of fresh orange and gladly gave me service, he even tied the string around my saddle and jacket. Now much more comfortable I made it to the top easily. I stopped at the top for an hour, took photos of the summit height plate and asked a motorist to take my photo at the plate also. I had a beer and toasted sandwiches at the top then descended easily back to Ribeira Bravo and the waterfront. I took in the view but didn’t stop long. The waterfront is narrow between the high cliffs and wasn’t tempted by the insistent persuasion of a restaurant tote trying to get me to eat at the restaurant by the water. I took the road for Cabo Girao BIG 521 through the short tunnel then a series of hairpins through the village and began the steady ascent up to Cabo Girao from 2.00 to 6.00pm. It was gradual but hard going. I found the road off to the right as I reached the top of the main road over. This led to the viewpoint and the tourist area with café and gift shop. I came to the metal platform and glass floor hanging over the second highest sea cliff in Europe and took the usual photos. Some Portuguese girls were creating noise pretending to be skydiving as they lay on the glass having their photos taken. From here I took the new road that steeply descends past hotels and over speed bumps, meeting the old road again further down, taking a right then a hair- raising 40% drop on a very narrow road into the centre of Camara de Lobos, emerging at the white church. It was dusk now and I really needed to get back quickly. I followed the coast to a roundabout and took the road for Funchal signposted Estrada Monumental route. I wanted to call on Heiko and friends but at 7.00pm it was too late so passed their hotel and made my way back to the hotel before total darkness. That evening we had a picnic on our balcony.