Thursday 30th April 2009 Holmes Chapel to Stuttgart
It was hard to visualise what the Ballons of the Vosges would look like or how difficult the road gradients would be when I got there to bike to the top of the passes. The most difficult preparation was trying to connect the Ballons together without having to retrace any of the climbs. It turned out to be impractical as I had to ride up the Col de la Schluct, for instance in both directions.
The hills are rounded and have plenty of tree cover so views are limited. It’s because they are rounded they are called the Ballons – or balloons in English because they appear as balloons on the horizon from a distance.
I bagged the bike the day before, removing the wheels and placing them in the pouches of the zipped padded bag either side of the frame, with the pedals removed. It was a tight fit with the rear carrier attached. I placed hard plastic piping between the front and rear drop-outs and strapped the rear and front gear mechanisms to the chain with quick release straps, so that the chain wouldn’t ravel up in transit.
Ruth drove me to the station and I took the local train direct to Manchester Airport, arriving at 18.00. I had until 20.35 for my TUI-Fly German flight to Stuttgart. The bike was checked in as soon as check-in was open for the flight. Queuing up I got close to the front of the queue when the check-in girl moved away from the desk and didn’t come back. The girl queuing in front of me was a bit put out. We joined a much larger queue but were eventually processed after a large noisy German contingent. On the plane I headed for a window seat but it was soon claimed so directed to another in the centre of the plane next to the fire door so there was plenty of leg room but the German businessman – aka laptop wasn’t pleased to have me there, he wanted his privacy – and I wanted the window seat.
The flight arrived in Stuttgart on time with great German efficiency. I assembled the bike before going through customs and of course I was last out. I went for the U-bahn for the city from the station under the airport and pumped the tyres up then remembered about leaving the bike bag at the left luggage at the airport so rode to the end of the building, realising then that I had no brakes as I avoided travellers with trolleys. I found that I needed to deposit Euro notes in the slot by the lockers. It was too complicated and I didn’t fancy losing Euros if I got it wrong so decided to try at Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof and leave the bag there. I ran back with the bike and caught the 00.22 train into the city half an hour away. The last train of the day from the airport is at 00.52 but I was hoping to catch a train from Stuttgart Hbf to Karlsruhe.
I asked at the station where I could leave my bag but the lockers there will only take luggage for up to 72 hours. A policeman directed me to Hotel Reicker across from the station and to the left across the station car park. I asked in there at their reception if I could pay to leave it there until Wednesday. They would take it in the interest of international friendship but didn’t want me to pay, unless his manager later requested it. At least now I was ready for the cycling – all I had to do was get to the start!
Friday 1st May 2009 Stuttgart to Saverne
I made my way back to the station and enquired about the 03.05 for Mannheim but was told that the train would not accept bikes and was given a train connection at 06.14 for Bruchsal and change for Karlsruhe but waited on the platform until 03.00 for the Inter City Express for Mannheim, changing for Karlsruhe and asked if I could board with the bike. I was refused but wish I had known better because on the last day at Freiburg I found out it was perfectly acceptable to take it on an ICE train with the wheels removed as I took it from Freiburg to Karlsruhe. It would have meant me getting to Annweiler for the start of my riding at an earlier time and getting some sleep in advance. Now there was nothing else for it but to wait on the cold platform until 06.00 for the first train of the day going west out of Stuttgart. At least I had a bench to kip down on for a few hours.
The station breakfast bars opened at 05.00 and I really needed a coffee to get warm again. At 06.14 a very welcome train trundled into the platform and I settled back in a warm carriage and grabbed some sleep – partly. It isn’t very interesting countryside on the way north to Bruchsal. I changed here for Karlsruhe, down the subway and up to another platform struggling with the bike amongst the crowd and knocked somebody on the way up who insisted on squeezing in front of me on the steps. He gave me a mouthful of expletives – long words I’d not heard before! On the train to Landau from Karlsruhe I was smiling at the number of bikes in the carriage – at least 20 with owners and it was very crowded. This would never happen on Britain’s railways – 2 only is the maximum then it’s, “try the next train, mate.”
German local rail services have a whole carriage on most trains to take bikes. People stood and held their bikes and shared the carriage with walkers out for the day, some meeting up with others at stations along the way. At Karlsruhe it was the same platform for the onward connection to Landau. The final connection for the short trip from Landau to Annweiller was shared with more cycles and owners and a very large German with a very large recumbent and fly splattered windshield – he’d never get that on a train in Britain – “on yer bike, mate!”. That final train got me to the foot of my first pass climb,
the Trifels, BIG number 166 and my first BIG of the year.
I set off at 09.00 from Bindersbach along the valley north of Annweiller to discover this only led to the end of the valley. I asked a man at a house at the end of the village – “Wo ist der weg nach Trifels Schloss?” – bad sentence construction I know but the words were good. He directed me to the end of the road and to take the track to the right that would eventually bring me to the road. I could also go for the track to the left, shorter but steep and may not be ride-able. At the end of the track to the right after about 2km I took a left on the road and 3km later I was at Trifels. It would have been much quicker to take the road west out of Annweiller then up and save some time but at least I was here, on a long route. I lost some time in the day as I really wanted to reach the Vosges (pronounced Vowsch-e – as in low) for early evening. The way up is an interesting forest road and great views of the red sandstone castle ahead through the trees on the approach. I wheeled the bike up the steep track to the stone archway and through to the castle entrance. I didn’t go in but was content to take in the view and place a BIG sticker on the rear of the Richard the Lionheart monument.
I took a few photos from the narrow walkway then made my way back down the track under the arch to the café at the pied-foot and took a right as it’s one-way for a few hundred yards further down, soon rejoining the road up at a stone sign indication to the top and continued down to Annweiller. It’s quite a way down and easy to see why Trifels is in the BIG category. A frantic cyclist at the foot of the climb was looking for her husband and asked me if I’d seen him but I came across no other cyclists on the way down.
From here I now needed to make up time and reach France as soon as possible. I took a left for Schwanheim, a pretty village of small colourful houses. Passing on and over the Dahn – Bergzabern road to Erlenbach and eventually to Nothweiler after some confusion at a road junction at Neiderschlettenbach seeing the indication for France but it was a right turn I needed for the shorter and more scenic route into France through Nothweiler and its German pubs. I stopped for water and took a cyclist and walker route along a wide track over the border and down through the forest to Lembach from Col de Litchdorf. There was plenty of activity here with cyclists and walkers as I passed over and followed the Steinbach river into Lembach. This is also a pretty village of houses and a church along a main street. From here south to Woerth and a steep rise up to Froeschwiller passing a First World War monument at the top on the left. The tall spire of the church ahead appeared as I reached the top of the rise.
From here down to Reichshoffen (Kingdom Hope – Reich’s Hope – they didn’t succeed as it’s now part of France) – on from here to Neiderbronn and right turn before reaching the main road then right again up a steep, narrow forest road for the Grand Wintersberg, a turning to the left as approached the top and a loop through the forest reaching BIG number 216 and a viewpoint, continued on and back to the lane for the descent down towards Phillipsbourg, entering on to the main road to the left of a farm house. From here left and back to Neiderbronn at 15.00 and took the road steeply up for Oberbronn, cobbles at the top by a town hall. From there a short way to Zinswiller where there was a diversion to the left for Engwiller.
I took this and reached Uhrwiller – and it really did take an hour as its name suggests because I became thoroughly confused and lost a lot of time on its maze of streets churned up with roadworks ready for tarmac to be laid. It was hard going so rode on the pavements. It was May Day celebrations in the town, and throughout France a national holiday – not the following Monday as in the UK. There was a wine festival going on at the village green. I didn’t do very well asking for directions to Zutzendorf, the next place en-route to reach Saverne on the diversion. I was directed – after free wine at their table – and reached the way out of the confusing maze having now lost too much time.
It seemed unlikely that I’d reach Schirmeck as planned at the end of the day. At Bouxwiller I dodged a rain flurry then passed through open country to Saverne. There was a festival in full swing on the green area north east of the town. I checked at l’Gare for a possible train south but there wasn’t one. All trains only go direct to Strasbourg and I wasn’t heading that way. I looked for a hotel in Saverne as it was now 19.00. There are two near the rail station so booked in at one of them, Hotel Europe. I parked the bike in a shed at the rear with other bikes. I bathed and changed then explored the town in search for somewhere to eat. I had a large Alsace beer at a pub and then pasta at a restaurant on the main street. After that it was back to my room and bed at 22.00, really tired after no sleep the previous night.
Saturday 2nd May 2009. Saverne to Gerardmer
At 08.00 I collected the bike from the shed at the rear and took the road south out of Saverne after a coffee and croissant at the rail station café. I didn’t want to pay the hotel breakfast price of 9.00€ for only rolls and coffee. After 3km and slightly uphill I took a right for Wangenbourg but before that at Obersteigen the road drops to a deep valley. I was glad I wasn’t going uphill at this point as a horde of really noisy motor-bikers ploughed up the hill in the opposite direction. I could have taken the road here for Col du Donon and followed some German cyclists who stopped to ask me the way up there as I stopped for milk and chocolate biscuits from a shop on the left. It was tempting but I didn’t want to lose time today and hopefully regain the miles lost yesterday if I’m going to keep on course through the Vosges and Black Forest to reach Frieburg and eventual train back to Stuttgart. I wanted to make good headway so continued downhill along a very pleasant forest road then up steeply through Nideck Forest and past Nideck Cascade.
There are a couple of off-road viewpoints along here perched high up on rocky outcrops above the trees. Eventually I followed a long sweep down to Oberhaslach and south to the main road. At Urmatt the road becomes an auto-route – cars only as indicated by the blue signs ahead so had to take a track to the right parallel to the road that led me to Wisches then a road to the right following the rail track into Schirmeck. I was glad I wasn’t staying here as planned as personally I don’t think it’s an interesting place to stay, nor did I see anywhere (sorry Schirmeckians!).
I started off up my third BIG of the tour, Col du Donon BIG number 217 and left the heaviest pannier and covered it with leaves behind a tree alongside the road as the climb begins above Wackenbach. The route up isn’t difficult, only a couple of steep sections. There’s a pub at the top on the right at the junction of roads. Just beyond I placed a BIG sticker on the west side summit marker. I took a few photos and also of the road off to the right that leads to a red/white radio mast along a rough road. I filled up with water from the pub bar but didn’t buy anything then floated down again to Wackenbach and collected my bag – but troubled at first because the avenue of trees all looked the same and I was so sure before that I would recognise the point from the position of the houses below – I should have counted the trees!
Back down again to Schirmeck and headed south on the main road for my next climb, the Champ du Feu, BIG number 218. At Rothau a sign indicated that the preferred route for the col is further along the main road so continued on to Fouday and up from here, as indicated. I left the heaviest bag behind again, this time behind a pile of logs and hidden between them then commenced the climb. I stopped for a light meal of cheese salad and orange juice at a small café in Waldersbach. The weather was hot and I needed to rest. After about ¾ of an hour I set off again to get to the top of the pass up a road that passes through dense woods then emerges into open countryside at a road junction then off to the right for a short distance to the top of the Champ du Feu, BIG number 218.
It started raining on the way up and it was too wet to stay up here for long so did an about turn and retraced my route down where it was drier in the valley, retrieved my bag and continued on south for St Die. In my haste to get down the hill I didn’t place the BIG sticker but in a brief look in the rain I couldn’t see anywhere to place it. Just before Bourg I spotted a small rail station and a train coming in but heading for Strasbourg, not in my direction. I took a look at the timetable there, being curious to see if there was a train heading for St Die or further. There was but not for a further 40 minutes at 15.50 so I continued on along the main road to Saales and maybe catch it there to boost my progress south into the Vosges – but once there I couldn’t find the station! I plodded on to St Die and wasn’t enamoured with the place – it’s just a sprawl and a bit grubby.
I found L’Gare and a train heading south at 17.12 for Epinal. I asked around to find out what the best intermediate stop would be for getting to Gerardmer.
This was at Laveline then take the D423 road south east for 12km. I took the train then biked that road through Granges and Vallee de Granges on a direct road arriving just before dark in Gerardmer. I found a hotel in the centre on the main square, Hotel Viry, then went out for a meal across the main square and had an Alsace traditional pizza. It’s made with a very thin base and I had it with cheese and ham. My bike was safely tucked away in the hotel workers mess area and I was tucked away in bed at 23.00
Sunday 3rd May 2009 Gerardmer to le Thillot
I was up early and after rolls, croissant and coffee breakfast I headed out at 08.30 for the first BIG of the day and was glad I hadn’t far to go to reach it. The past two days were a race against time to cover a lot of ground and only four major climbs. Now I was on the edge of the Vosges and had the possibility of climbing three easily today, maybe more. I set off directly east for Col de la Schlucht, BIG number 220 along a smooth level road to Xonrupt then a sudden climb to the right of Lac de Longemer and the start of the Col de la Schlucht. The lake soon appears down below between the spruce trees. Soon either side of the road became rocky as I reach the Roche du Diable (Devil’s Rock) through a natural archway spanning the road. Just before this on the left on the way up is a small monument in memory of the French Maquis that fell here during the war. Further up through the woods and into open country about a kilometre from the top I pass the la Bresse road coming in from the south and round a few more beds reach the road summit.
It’s easy to see why the road is popular for motor-cyclists as there are so many cafes up here and places to lounge about. I only stopped briefly as I wanted to carry on down the other side and up to Petit Ballon. I placed the BIG sticker on the east side of the pass, took the usual photos then enjoyed a long downhill to Munster. On the way down, at Soultzeren, I noticed a clattering noise coming from the back wheel. I stopped and discovered that some of the rear rack screws had worked loose and one was missing. The chain side lower screw had fallen out and derailleur gear guard was loose, also one of the seat stay bolts was loose. I called in at the Total Garage a kilometre further down and asked if they could replace a screw and tighten up the allen screws that had worked loose. I’d left my tools in the heavier bag back in the hotel at Gerardmer. The mechanic there tightened the screws but didn’t have a replacement for the lost chain side screw. He fixed it with a piece of wire twisted around with pliers to give a firm join. It was just as well because the next pass would have shaken it loose again. The wire is still in place after 2.½ weeks in Portugal / Spain and numerous other trips since later in the year.
Down to Munster and asked the way from an old gent standing at the right place at the road junction. He directed me to the right then to go over a stream to the left over a bridge then immediately steeply up through the woods towards Petit Ballon, BIG number 222. There’s no scenery all the way up because of the thickly wooded climb. I was confused as well as I didn’t see another road coming in from the left as I thought a road would join this coming up from Munster via Eschbach if I had turned left in the town.
Just before the road junction coming in from Wasserbourg were two motor bikes and side cars – something you don’t see too often. Here were two older men driving their large dogs who seemed to be enjoying the experience, tongues lolling out. The men wore goggles and helmets but not the dogs. I thought passengers had to wear them? The road now entered a clearing above the woods and the rest of the way I enjoyed the great scenery across a large expanse. About another kilometre and past a road junction to the right I reached a public house – Ferme-Auberge Buchwald at 1050m. I took a few photos, used the pub facilities then back to the road junction and took the left up to the larger public house ahead under the mountain ridge. Passing this I was close to the top of the Petit Ballon, BIG number 222. The road passes in front of the pub then bends to the left and climbs behind the building to a car park then a turn to the right and immediately after a turn to the left where the top was reached. It was a bit disappointing not to have a road summit plate here so stuck a BIG sticker on the gradient road sign indicating a steep hill down the other side. Perhaps this descends to Lautenbach? It was tempting to see if I could reach the Grand Ballon but needed to get back to Gerardmer to collect my other bag. I freewheeled back down through the trees in about ¾ of an hour along the pot-holed road back to Luttenbach.
The bottom section of this road is quite steep. Back along to Munster following the stream for a hot ride back up the Col de la Schlucht, stopping once at a lay-by and pleased to see that the BIG sticker was still there as I approached the top. I had a coffee at the top then fast down the other side and back into Gerardmer to collect my heavier pannier. Perhaps the rack had come loose earlier because of the weight of a single pannier pulling on the rack on the descent around road bends and the cobbled road in Soultzeren?
Back at Hotel Viry I paid my bill – forgot about that earlier this morning in my keenness to hit the road! I left Gerardmer at 15.00 and took the road south for Col de la Grosse Pierre, BIG number 219. First of all it was a short rise up to Col du Haut de la Cote – a long name for a short climb! The climb was wasted on a rapid descent to Bas Rupts. Onward and up again with woods to the left – north – and a steep ascent to begin with that becomes less steep – a true ‘ballon’ steeper at the bottom up the side of the ballon to a more rounded top. At the top there’s a pub to the right and I placed a BIG sticker on the summit plate opposite. I noticed for the first time that the BIG had already been stickered, a pleasant surprise and heartened by the fact I’m not the only sticker-upper! John Timmermans has beaten me to it but sorry to have to tell you John that the sticker has faded and is now light grey and almost illegible. I took the usual photos.
There were quad bikes parked alongside the pub but wasn’t tempted. I continued steeply down from here along the hairpins into la Bresse, a long street of shops and houses alongside the Moselotte River and some industry at the far end of the small town. It was an easy road along to Cornimont then sharply up to Travexin. It was tempting to stop here for the evening as there are a couple of interesting hotels and restaurants. I thought better of it but wondered about taking the road for Oderen for the Petit Drumont climb but glad I didn’t as I discovered the following day – it was a busy road in from Mulhouse over the Col du Bussang. I chose instead to go over the picturesque Col du Menil, a short rise then a long gradual descent to le Thillot.
I looked for somewhere to stay as I entered in at 19.00. There was nowhere to be found in the small town so carried on for Fresse and saw a sign for a hotel over the Moselle river to the south. The hotel is an attractive looking chateaux that stands in its own grounds. It set me back €60 but I enjoyed it! I leave my bags and after a bath under an open Velux window and lying back looking at the deep blue sky and changed and in search of somewhere to eat. Le Thillot isn’t a tourist spot as it’s devoid of restaurants and cafés. All I came across was a kebab take-away on the road I came in on earlier. The Turk serving joked with me – as they do the world over. From there I wanted a beer and went across to a pub on the Remiremont road. I was glad I did because the group of lads in there were friendly and tried their best with English. They asked me where I came from and why I was here. When they found out I was cycling they wanted to talk. Conversation led from cycling – to Manchester United – to politics – and 3 more Leffe beers bought for me. One of the group was so drunk on Pernod and orange at 10.30 closing time he was reeling and had to be carried home by his friends. Shortly afterwards I unlocked my bike by the landlords’ torchlight and biked back to the hotel, asleep at 23.30.
Monday 4th May 2009 Le Thillot to Mulhouse
I enjoyed a really good breakfast and in a huge wooden floored room with high windows and all alone. Nobody else was staying here last night. The whole chateaux is very clean and spacious but a Spartan interior. I paid the lady in cash and asked if I could leave my bag here while I cycle the Ballon de Servance, BIG number 224. It was a warm morning as I set off at 09.00 for a short 4 kilometre rise to the top of Col des Croix but once there I was unsure of which road to take as there are three choices here. I soon discovered that Ballon de Servance is the road to the left that rises steeply from the road junction. It’s a rough road, some pot-holes but a very pleasant climb through forested areas.
About half of the road up follows a stream on the left then at a point indicated on the road by a descriptive diagram of the area it shows the remainder of the road in detail to the col, and I knew what I was letting myself in for. There are two very steep sections further up then the clearing comes into view leaving the trees behind. The top is dominated by a large radio mast. There was snow at the top that day in complete contrast to the warm valley at le Thillot. I needed my yellow jacket, extra vest and gloves for the descent but these were out of place when I reached the bottom at 11.30.
After collecting my bag I followed the cycle lane that passes in front of the chateaux. It’s a disused railway track that goes as far as Bussang village as a cycleway. I followed it at first as far as St Maurice coming off it just before it continues under a bridge. I passed over a car park on to the main road, over the same bridge and almost immediately right where the Ballon d’Alsace is indicated. It’s 9.5 kilometres to the top of the Ballon d’Alsace BIG number 225, and the road has kilometre markers that indicate the distance to the top, the average gradient for the next kilometre and the current height. These markers are reminiscent and identical to those on the ascent of Alpe d’Huez from Bourg d’Oisans – and they’re very useful! There were a couple of cyclists ahead of me so I followed them up. This spurred me on and at 2km above St Maurice I left my heavier pannier behind at a tree in a grassy ditch and covered it with leaves. Now I must remember to count the trees now for retrieving it later! It was a fairly easy climb to the top, no real tough gradients and could manage it the whole way on my middle chainring. The gradient remains mostly at a 7.5% gradient. On reaching the top I asked the two cyclists I caught up with if they would take my photo at the top with the summit marker as I had just placed the BIG sticker up there and told them what it was. They insisted I place my bike on theirs for the photo. I took another shortly after. There’s a couple of cafés at the top on either side of the road. I parked up at the one on the left and had croquet monsieur with chicken – two layers of toast topped with thick cheese – 4€. The man behind the counter asked what I would like on it – but my French is so hopeless; I wasn’t sure what he said but with some slight intelligence I said ‘pollo’. The word must have come out completely wrong because he laughed and did a chicken sound waving his elbows! I bought a couple of postcards and would have bought a cowbell but they were so expensive. The smallest one at only 3 inches long and 2 inches in diameter was 14€.
I put my helmet on but didn’t need a jacket as in contrast to Ballon de Servance earlier it was now warm. I freewheeled back down the pass and collected my pannier from behind the wire fence, down a slope and behind a tree, well hidden under a pile of leaves. Back in St Maurice I took the main road but soon discovered the continuation of the cycle-track so rode across the grass divide and followed it until I reached Bussang village for Petit Drumont, BIG number 221.
Having problems with my biking shorts sticking to me in the warm weather and desperately needed to change them, risking it with nobody around I changed along the track, hoping no one would suddenly appear. The track was clear both ways but from off the track appeared a woman walking her dog! She went red and shouted at me. I was so glad I couldn’t understand French!
At Bussang I crossed over the busy main road at the end of the cycle track and took a quieter parallel road under Col de Bussang then veered off to north for a 500 metre climb, short but steeply through the woods to Petit Drumont. Two hairpins and a road junction of a road coming in from Urbes on the other side of the Col de Bussang then a further kilometre along the ridge. There’s a round viewpoint indicator at the top. I didn’t stay long as time was against me and wanted to spend time on the Grand Ballon to end the day. I made the mistake of going back down to Bussang that meant I had to slog up the Col de Bussang with too much traffic for company, I should have taken the road for Urbès but it wasn’t indicated on my 1cm=2km Michelin #87 map. The mistake cost me precious time. Up and over Col de Bussang where there is no indication of the highest point but it’s not possible to stop here anyway. There is no lay-by and traffic zooms past continually – it’s just not safe, at least it’s a god surface. I was glad to get over the top and freewheeled down to Urbès. The gradient suddenly ends on entering the village. The traffic volume thins out after St Amarin, a sizeable place. My next calling point was Willer sur Thur for the much quieter road for the Grand Ballon, BIG number 223 to complete my tour of the Vosges climbs. It was a relief to be off the main road but knew I would have to join it again later as I headed for the Rhine.
I still hoped to reach Germany before nightfall but over the next couple of hours it was obvious I wouldn’t make it. I biked about 3 kilometres until just before a steep climb to Godbach, passing through pleasant fields with picnic tables beside a stream. At a convenient point before the first steep section I left my heavier pannier, this time behind a woodpile and under a tarpaulin on a track to a ramshackled hut, itself hidden behind trees - and a gap in the crash barrier leading to it. I took a good look around to be sure I wouldn’t miss it on the way back down. It was the only gap in the crash barrier before the 3km indicator post. I continued on passing through scenic Goldbach village with its stone church and similar stone houses. It was a bit steep up here through the woods and eventually levelled out approaching Col Amic at the junction of the road coming up from Cernay. At the road junction I took the left and began a steeper ascent towards the Grand Ballon through woods and over two cobbled sections of road over sharp bends. I told myself I must watch out for those on the descent at speed. On reaching a clearing eventually I came face to face with the classic balloon shape if the final section of the climb, and could see the top clearly from about 3km distance. The climb was sudden for the final 2 km to a steep well rounded hill that levelled off for the last half kilometre. The highest point is topped with a mast and could see all the final stretch of the climb before me. I placed the BIG sticker on the south facing road summit marker plate and took the usual photos. At the top on the west side are two cafés well set back away from the road. I gave them a miss. Over a cattle grid at the top the road suddenly descends down the other side for le-Markstein. I did an about turn for the descent back down to Willer and collect my pannier on the way. This is one drawback of depositing weight to make a climb; it’s always the same way back. I really needed all available clothing on as it was cold up here in the early evening. Gloves were needed for a firm grip on the brake levers down the cheek of the ballon. After collecting my bag – always a relief to recognise the exact spot – I biked through Willer and emerged on to the main road then made my way through Thann as quickly as possible to reach Mulhouse before dark. After Vieux Thann the road becomes a motorway but bikes are allowed on as far as Lutterbach where the blue sign for cars only appears. It wasn’t a problem from here as I headed for Dornach on the outer suburb road heading straight for the city. It was just getting dark so lights on. In Dornach I followed the signs for Centre Ville and found a hotel in Mulhouse centre at 20.00 I locked my bike up in the parking area at the rear, washed and changed and out for a meal at 21.00. It was getting a bit late now but had cervelat and chips served by a Chinaman! A side street café but it was clean and the food was good, washed it down with a strong beer and back to the hotel and bed at 22.00.
Tuesday 5th May 2009 Mulhouse to Stuttgart
I didn’t want any breakfast so collected the bike at 09.00 and headed east for the German border in search of the dead straight road through the Harth Forest and flatland either side of the Rhine for Mullheim. I was caught in a maze trying to find my way out of Mulhouse and on to that road. At first I biked along to the station to see if there was a train from here heading east but there were none until later in the day. One thing I really needed though was to find out at station enquires the best way to get back to Stuttgart for this evening.
I was given a time for two journey possibilities both of which could take my bike, both regional trains in Germany; the first from Freiburg to Karlsruhe, the other from Karlsruhe to Stuttgart so I knew I had my connections back for my flight home tomorrow and could carry on cycling (sounds like a comedy film) for today from Mulhouse to Freiburg.
Later in Mulhouse I took the signs for ‘toute directions’ and came to indications for Riedsheim and Rixheim (or was it Romulus and Remus?). I didn’t want either but was in the right area of the city. If I took this direction it would get me east but just a little too much to the south. As it was, I soon found the right road nearby. The indication was for Ile Napoleon and Modenheim. This is what I wanted and headed along here. This soon becomes the D39 – the long straight road for 14 kilometres that crosses the Harth Forest and spans the Rhine. Part way across the heide is a crossing cycleway and plenty of cyclists at Grunhutte. Soon I reached the Rhine and took a few photos and passed over into Neuenberg village. I was glad to see the yellow road signs again – and also relieved to see that if the worst came to the worst I was only 27 kilometres from Freiburg along a direct road avoiding the hills. The road I wanted to take though would take me through Badenweiler to the Blauen then over Sirnitz Sattel to Utzenfeld and the Belchen, Todtnau and finally over the Schaunisland and down to Freiburg. Feeling almost a ‘welcome home’ in Germany – at least I could make myself understood here – I bought a bratwurst and roll from a street van in Neuenburg then cycled on to Mullheim and Badenweiller and began the climb up the Blauen, BIG number 174.
Again I left my heavier bag behind and just carried what was essential. It only contains clothes that would be a great loss but not the end of the earth. I don’t think too many passers –by would be so interested in cycle clothing anyway. I left it in long grass behind a crash barrier and well away from a footpath. About two kilometres further along Blauen is indicated to the left, goes down slightly then another road to the right and the climb proper begins. The road up is narrow but on the day I was up there it was quiet, very few cars and I was alone most of the way. There’s a further right turn at 1.5km from the top then another steep section and finally the top is there in a clearing to reach a café just below a track that goes to a radio mast that is perched at the very top. I had a beer and a piece of schwarzwaldkirschentorte here at 13.00 and stopped for ¾ of an hour. Two other cyclists appeared up there but they weren’t for talking.
Later I wheeled the bike up the track to the radio mast and placed a BIG sticker up there on a metal girder and took the usual photos. From there I did an about turn, on with the helmet, jacket and gloves and freewheeled back down and collected my bag and down through picture postcard village Badenweiller with its pretty houses with a stream running alongside. From there to Schweigehof and began the climb up to Sirnitz Sattel what once was BIG number 175, now taken by the Lochen Pass. It was still a tough climb and if its replacement is tougher then it’s got to be a good one! It’s a long way up through the woods – approx 15 kilometres.
I was told by a German cyclist who rode with me for a short distance that this is one of the longest hill climbs in the Black Forest. It was a hot ride that took up a great deal of time and I resigned myself to the fact that I wouldn’t be able to tackle BIG’s 176 and 178 today, Weissenbach Sattel and Kahler Asten both to the east of Todtnau.
I would only be able to visit the Belchen and Schaunisland on a more direct route to Freiburg before dark. I took some photos at Sirnitz and at the Sattel with great views to the east then descended to Neuenweg followed by a short rise up to Böllen then steeply down to Schönau im Schwarzwald and joined a main road heading north for Utzenfeld.
The small towns along here blend into each other. Off to the left before Utzenfeld I began to climb the 12 kilometres of the Belchen, BIG number 172. This took ages and the rest of the afternoon. The first 3 kilometres are easy enough along the valley where I left my heavier bag behind a tree and away from where walkers would go, then a small climb and eventually to a road junction where the way to the top is to the left – 5 kilometres of real gruelling slog that’s good for your heart but not the backside! There was nowhere suitable to place a BIG sticker on a metal surface and I couldn’t place it on the wooden cross up there! I did an about turn, back down the same way and retrieved my bag from its hidey-hole. Two and a half hours after commencing the climb I continued along the valley to Todtnau and the road for Freiburg.
Just before the town is a turning to the left for Schaunisland, BIG number 171 and the final climb of my trip. I had a quick look around the small town first and bought a beef kebab and beer then stomach stocked up began the climb at approx 19.00. This is a long and twisty road but not really too steep so was able to make good progress as far as the roads junction for Kirchzarten after about 8 kilometres. I now had about 5 kilometres to go to reach the top and I wanted to see it in the light of day so really pushed myself to get up there quickly to give myself at least another half hour of daylight to get down the other side. It’s a very twisty road, fantastic views on the south side looking back at the road twisting back down the mountain. I passed a hotel on the right and thought this was the top but no – it’s another kilometre. Once there I placed a BIG sticker on the information board under the sloping cover in the hope that it’ll survive the worst of the weather in the sheltered position. Hopefully people won’t try to pick it off.
There were other cyclists up there but they ignored me as I had panniers and they were more sporty – a different breed! I’m pedigree they’re mongrels! I enjoyed a long freewheel down into Freiburg and just made it to the archway over the road at Gunterstal where the tram terminus is and in the failing light followed a final section of open country and the tram line into the city with its cobbled streets. I asked the way to the hauptbahnhof – it was straight on from where I entered then a left – and I found it. It’s located among high rise modern buildings.
I had a train for Karlsruhe almost immediately but it was an intercity express – ICE train and I couldn’t take the bike aboard? I was told I could take it if I took the wheels off and laid them either side of the frame at the end of a carriage. I must remember this for future as nearly all DB trains going north/south and vice/versa are ICE trains. I took it as far as Karlsruhe and enjoyed a hot sandwich and beer from the dining car. I liked the beer glass so much that I offered to buy it but the girl gave me a long look as it to say ‘name your price’ but she insisted I take it as a gift. I said it will have pride of place at home near Manchester and sure enough I use it quite often. It’s got the DB insignia on the side of the glass. From Karlsruhe I had an hour’s wait as I just missed my connection to Stuttgart trying to re-assemble the bike to get across to another platform. The final train I was now waiting for was regional reaching Stuttgart at midnight.
Wednesday 6th May Stuttgart to Holmes Chapel
Once in Stuttgart I made my way across to Hotel Reiker where I had left my bike bag to see if they had a room for the night but they were full. The same man who took my bike bag last Thursday recognised me, but apologised that he couldn’t accommodate me. He rang round for me though and found me a room on the other side of the city centre. I scooted the bike down there as I hadn’t connected my brakes and it was raining. I wanted to get there quickly. The hotel was difficult to find which stands to reason – it’s called Hotel Finde. I eventually found it on a busy dual carriageway on the other side from where I spent too much time looking. I joked with the man on reception on the pun of the hotel name and my difficulty finding it. He just stared at me seriously – of course, he’s German. It was too late to go out in search for somewhere to eat but I had enough in my panniers to finish off. I lay in the twin-bedded loft room watching TV until 02.00. I lay in until 10.00 a.m., had breakfast as part of the price and pushed the bike on a walk around the city centre, taking a few photos and looking round some of the stores. I called at Hotel Reicker for my bike bag and offered to pay for their minding it for me but they refused. “All in good International community relations!” I was told. At midday I took the S-Bahn to the airport after downing a final sausage and beer in the shopping area below the city main station. I was too early for the flight but was allowed to check in and deposit the bike after bagging it. I basked in the sunshine at MacDonalds outside the airport but only wanted the seat – I didn’t buy anything. It was finally time to go for the flight and passed through customs clearance. In the Duty Free I bought some Pernod and a bottle of Dissaronno liqueur for Ruth then I made my way to the boarding gate for the flight. There were no problems getting back home from Manchester airport even though I had to change at Wilmslow. I asked a member of staff at Manchester Airport station if he could radio ahead to Wilmslow as I had to change platforms under the subway there lugging the bike and a pair of panniers. I only had 5 minutes between connections. I rang Ruth from the airport station and she met me at Holmes Chapel car park with my car to take bike and weary me back home. “You could have walked it!,” she said.