Scandinavia July – August 2014
Friday 18th July 2014 Day 1 Oslo Moss Rygge Airport to Vastra Tunhem, Sweden
Speedometer reading 5651 km , kilometre reading at end of day 5869 0 to 218km or 136 miles
Drove from Rygge Moss airport, Oslo at 17.00 to the first BIG, Hunneberg BIG 40 arriving at 20.30 after a long motorway drive south on road E6. After parking up there was sufficient time, one and a half hours, to find the top of the Hunneberg along the track through the trees before it started to get dark. I was back at the car at 10.00pm. The gradient indication from Vastra Tunhem is 10% for a kilometre to the junction of tracks then straight forward to the top on the track but first I went off to the left (west) along a forest road to another road junction , taking a right and reached a lake on the right. This road only does a circuit under the Hunneberg itself but it was an interesting exploration along the forest road. Opposite the lake on the left side of the road is a country restaurant set back from the road. From that point I retraced my route back to the track that goes directly to the Hunneberg to the top then returned the same way back to the junction and down the steeper road section back to the car. There was a great view over the river to the sunset at Arlands. I slept in the car on a wide grass verge just to the north of Vastra Tunhem looking over to the lake in the distance near the main road. I ate half of Ruth’s schnitzel she made for me and soon slept.
Saturday 19th July 2014 Day 2 Vastra Tunhem to Ostra Tando, Salen, Sweden
5869 kilometre, reading at end of day 6550km 218km to 681km 425 miles
From Vastra Tunhem through Jonkopping to Huskavarra. An early start at 6.00am to the next BIG. Klevaliden BIG 38 There was hardly any traffic so made good time and parked the car close to the foot of the climb after first checking with a local that it was OK to leave the car in front of the houses and that I was in the correct area for the start of the climb. Across a main road and off to the right where the climb begins and it’s steep right away. I cycled up under the trees towards the lake on the right at the end of the higher village then a left turn to red houses where the road begins to descend slightly, back to the lake and up a short rise which must be the top. I took some photos (road signs) at the lake side. The area is well wooded. I took a different way down as I should have taken a right but came down a bit further along the main road back to car where I’d left it in a cul-de-sac in the small town. Later I drove through Falkopping then took road 184 to Skaro then good directions from there just before Gothne to Hukassen and Kukulle, it was easy to find. On the way, at a retro garage between Jonkopping and Falkopping, I had coffee and sausage followed by ice cream on the way here, needed some breakfast (30 SWK). I could have as many coffees as I wanted for the price of one I was told. This was the accepted norm. I parked at the large car park by the lake and took the road for the BIG across the main road. At the time there were fire engines there as they were hosing a school that had burnt down. The road is called Industry Road and there are shops to the right where I called in on one to confirm the direction to the BIG. The way was forward for 3km to the end of the road then to the right and after 100 metres a turn to the left for a sharp rise to the top. At the top of Hogkullen BIG 41 at the tower I had another ice cream (12 SWK) and signed the visitors book. It was a very warm day! I took some photos of the historical sites at the top and took in the view. I adjusted my rear gear as I couldn’t obtain the top rear ring. The problem was I had not assembled the sprockets between the rear forks correctly and had found the previous BIG a struggle but from this point I had corrected it. I still had a problem with the rear brake to sort. It was now 2.30pm. After Hogkullen I drove off via Marienstad, Lyrestad/Sjotorp (a missed turning here) to Gullspang. Great view of Lake Vanern. Road via Kristinehamn and Karlstad to route 61 – I should have taken route E45 before Lyrestad on E45 going directly north so turned off at Edane and Still, E45 now widened as it was originally route 228. This goes to Sunne then along Ovre Fryken lake to Stopaford for the next BIG. I took a wrong turning after leaving the car at the 45 Diner. I went along a gravel track to the south of the BIG so turned back after a few kilometres as it was evident this road was not going up but merely going round the mountain. Later I found the way to the BIG to a track off this one to the left that soon joined with the hard surface road to BIG 39 Tossbergskalatten summit. The climb begins immediately and steep for 2km and average 20% to the top on a good surface road. I took some photos of the tower at the top and across to the lake below. There’s a toilet and café at the top with a gift shop of local handcrafts but was closed when I was there. Back down and had a burger and chips at the American 45 Diner for 119SWK. There was a group playing Country and Western songs but I found this disturbing the peace! Americans are bad enough but Swedes singing American was torturous. On then to Torsby and dusk at Malung. There were old American cars here; wide chrome Chevrolets and crowds dressed in tassels, braids, Stetsons and pointy shoes. Please can I get away from America! Further north, 20 miles south of Salen at Ostra Tando, I found a place to kip down at 23.00 off the road and put the passenger seat back and soon slept.
Sunday 20th July 2014 Day 3 Ostra Tando, Salen, Sweden to Funasdalen
6550km to 6806km 681km to 937km 160 miles
Into Salen and waited for a café to open at 07.00 (0280 20777 Materum Café). 53 SWK for carrot cake and plenty of coffee and cream, I could help myself to the jug and needed it, sleeping in the car all night I was worse for wear, especially as it was the second night on the run. From there I could change and wait for the sun to warm the air a bit then set off from the café cycling to the roundabout at the foot of the next BIG and cycled to the top. At the big red hotel there I bought a carton of orange 35SWK and stayed a while 09.00 – 10.15. it took me an hour to get up there and back at the car that I left by the café and away again heading further north at 11.15 on road 37 towards Idre, arriving at 13.00. from 13.15 to 15.00 I cycled the BIG Nipfalljet. After 7km there was a dip for 2km then up again the final 3km to the end of the road, however this continues as a track after the troll on the rock on the left and the notice indicating the magic troll section. A notice suggests that motorists put their gears in neutral and release the brake and cars would roll uphill. I never had the chance to try it and it doesn’t work with bikes! The final 3km is a ride-able stony track to the wooden signpost at the end that point to the walk up the Nipfulljelet to the left, a 1.5km walk, worth the stroll for the view and locked the bike up at the post. I took the usual photos and also close ups of a lone heavy antler deer that paused then retreated when it saw the camera pointed at it – yes I shot it harmlessly. Back down to the car at 16.00 then drove on to Tannas. This is a seemingly endless road lined with conifers, lakes and the appearance of the occasional reindeer wandering the road oblivious to the traffic. Tannas is only a small place of scattered houses as I started looking for somewhere to stay tonight. I owed it to myself to get a good shower and a decent night’s sleep in a good bed. The car is OK to sleep in but not for a third night on the run. I continued on along the smooth red surface road to Funasdalen and immediately found a hotel at 18.00, B&B for 400SWK (£37). I went for my rucksack then couldn’t find the room I was taken to when I came in! I had to wait for the hotelier to re-appear for another customer as there was no way to contact. It was too late to cycle the next BIG, Flatruet, this evening, I would need at least three hours so that would be the morning’s ride as originally planned. I went for a meal along the road at a pizzeria 115SWK + 65SWK for a beer (£10 + £6 for the beer!) It was a 5.3% local beer but not buying from a restaurant again. Back at the hotel I texted Ruth. She replied to say that our Crewe house was now filled with tenants again so the money should be rolling in. Also a door for MCC was sold on Ebay and she had collected my car from Zan Drive, Sandbach. It needed to have a new starter motor at £180. I went to sleep at 22.00 and hopefully up and away early tomorrow.
Monday 21st July 2014 Day 4 Funasdalen to Stromsund
6806km to 7328km 937km to 1459km 326 miles
Breakfast at 07.20 and away from Funasdalen at 08.00 then the next 2.½ hours along the hard surfaced road for Flatruet. From the road junction off to the right though the road became smooth surface clay with wheel ruts that made it difficult to cycle out of the ruts because of uneven surface at the walls of the ruts. Further on at Mittadalen it was even worse as road works were taking place and the clay surface gave way to a packed gravel surface. This continued for 4km before returning to clay then it was a long straight road on an up and down route to the top which can be seen from 2km away. There’s a blue marker plate at the top on the right indicating that Flatruet was reached. Up there also is an upright stone slab among a pile of rocks commemorating July 1938 when this route was opened, among the stones one brightly coloured one commemorating a cycling achievement to Nordkapp so took a photo. It was barren and windswept at the top and after the usual photos I turned tail and headed off back to Funasdalen and the car, back at 11.00. The way was now east for Vemdelen and the next BIG. A few kilometres out of Funasdalen I saw a notice for a short 1km walk from the road to a meteor crater so walked across the wooden walkway through the marshy ground to take a look. The crater is fairly deep but since the impact in 1990 the green moss has taken over and a small pool at the base. Back to the car and on to Vemdelen. I bought the second half tank of diesel along the way at Hodeviken at 12.30. I remember it being a hot day Vemdelen is known locally as the ‘who valley’ as ‘vem’ means ‘who’ in Swedish. I bundled the bike out of the car in Vemdelen at 12.45 at a car park in front of the wooden church tower at the side of the road. I reached the top of the BIG at 13.30, down again at 14.00 after the usual photos. It’s an easy road and a good surface of red fine stone for 10km; a slight rise and steeper towards the top by the ski runs. Back top car, bought some food at a small supermarket nearby and ate in front of the church in bright sunshine. Into the car I drove back up the pass and it started to rain – and heavy. I was fortunate! I passed through Asarna, Berg, Marby, Morsil and Are to reach my next BIG, Ulladen. Arriving at 17.30 it took me half an hour to get up there. I posed for some self timer photos in front of the café and ski lift then returned down the steep road to the car. From there I drove on to Ostersund on a very warm day. I was a bit confused at the roundabout on the edge of the town for the direction northeast and had a quick peek at the town before heading off for Hammersdal where I stopped at a pizzeria for a pizza quarto staggione and a couple of beers and taking the labels for collection. I knew I wasn’t going to find accommodation so better to have a good meal before sleeping in the car.
Tuesday 22nd July 2014 Day 5 Stromsund to Kaajani (Finland)
7328km to 8205km 1459km to 2336km 548 miles
From Stromsund at 06.15 when the sun in the car made it too warm to sleep any longer I followed a stream of lorries laden with tree trunks leaving what should have been quiet suburbia and headed back for the main road road. I was glad that the lorries headed south but I took a left heading north for the next town, Dorolea. I found a hotel on the left of the main road on the north side of the town that opened for buffet breakfast at 07.00 and had a bargain breakfast for 6.00€. I know it’s not euroland but that’s what they charged. I had a really good fill and could use their facilities to shower and shave. I left the hotel at 08.30 feeling thoroughly refreshed as if I’d slept in a bed for the night. I filled up with diesel again before continuing on. The next stop was at Arvidsjavur at midday and had a half hour stop for coffee and cake at a roadside café on the one main street through the town, and reached Alvslyn at 13.30 where I stopped for a while at a pool in the town with a water fountain in the centre. By now the weather was getting even warmer so drove with the windows open. I now had 95 miles to reach the coast at Lulea at the top of the Gulf of Bythnia. I missed a turning into the town though and instead drove on through Granon and Bergnaset where I became confused with directions ending up on the road for Avan so turned back and eventually found the E4 main road to avoid Lulea centre and follow the signs for Haparanda. It was now that I was convinced I could claw back one day and arrive near the first BIG in Finland before the end of the day. I felt that now I really could visit and cycle all the BIG’s in Scandinavia and was encouraged that I had got this far in five days so became a little poetic; Earlier in the year I dipped my toe in the Land of the Norse in Denmark, waded in the shallows of Iceland shared with Ruth but now I could swim in the depths of Scandinavia. I had a coffee from a take-away just before the border and used up the remaining Swedish coins (16SWK £1.50). Now over the border and no formalities but it’s a busy wide road along to Olou. I was becoming travel weary but continued, reaching Olou at 18.30 and checked a lay-by map that indicated the exit number off the main road for the road to Kaajani. Seeing this made it easy and it was no problem finding the exit and was soon on the correct road for the last stage of the long drive. I rested for a while at the lay-by then later found a kebab café n45 miles northwest of Kaajani, had a pizza and beer then drove more slowly to find somewhere to park the car off the road and sleep for the night. I found a quiet lakeside stopping place at Vaala, Jaalangan Ankurri shared with an Ukranian lorry driver who came up to me to ask if I had a float to replace his damaged one for his fishing line. Best of it was he asked me in English! I apologised saying I wasn’t here for fishing. This was crazy, I’d driven 877km or 547 miles today and was 113km (70 miles) short of the BIG at Voukatti. It was only 21.00 but I soon slept after a re-arrangement of rucksack and passenger seat for sleeping.
Wednesday 23rd July 2014 Day 6 Kaajani (Finland) to Kuusomo
8205km to 8884km 2336km to 3015km 424 miles
I woke to the birds on the lake at 06.00 and drove south through Kontlomaki then south west to the road junction with road 899 that was easily found then into Vuokatti but had to search a short while before I found the foot of the climb for the short struggle to the top for the BIG. Forward planning on Google Earth showed me the road sign that would appear at the bottom of the road and sure enough it was there. I parked just over the railway bridge on a track where runners were slogging away back and forth then bundled out the bike . This is crazy, coming all this way for a short bike climb but here goes. I started at 06.50 and was back at the car at 07.50. Sheer madness – driving 500 miles from Sweden to cycle 2km to the top of a ski run, short , sharp and steep. It’s a typical BIG though. The ski runs are now just dust sections in the warm weather minus any trace of snow. I met a chap running up there who ran to the end of the wood boarding at the top then collapsed in a heap. Cycling is so much better! I asked him where he ran from and he was enthusiastic about his time improvement from Vuokatti down below. I wasn’t so much enthusiastic but amazed at why I drove all this way to tackle a bike climb for an hour. At 08.00 I drove out heading further south for Koli by the Lake Pielinen hugging the Russian border . An easy drive along route 6 south of Juuka then saw the sign for Koli to the left. I assembled the bike again at the car park by the visitor centre and rode down to the lake then up again, collecting a detailed map (5€) of the climb to the BIG from the tourist office then cycling the remaining 3km on a cycle-path on the right of the road that soon crossed under to the left then rejoined the road just as the incline started. I could have continued on gravel but needed to conserve the tyres so emerged on to the road and continued to the top. There’s a car park by the chairlift to the top and from this point the way ahead is steeper but it’s only a short distance of a few hundred metres. Rounding a corner on a left bend I came to the hotel that marks the top. From here there’s good views past the fir tree woods to the Karelian Lakes and across to the Russian border. I was at the most easterly point of my Scandinavian tour. After photos by the chairlift and rocky outcrop I wandered to the back of the hotel, photos there then went for a coffee (2€) in the visitors centre that just opened at 10.00. Vuokatti and through Kajaani then 200 miles to Kuusamo. The final 50km was monotonous driving a road with either side trees and lakes. You can have too much of a good thing, and as interesting as it was it was too much of the sameness. I arrived in Kuusomo at 17.30 and filled up with diesel again as soon as I arrived (48€) and found the biggest hotel in the town at 84€ with breakfast, swimming and sauna. I lapped it up as I needed to relax after that long drive yesterday. I had a bee from an Irish pub (!) – served by an Irishman! “What are you doing here?”, I asked . He liked the quietness and relaxed ways of the Finns. I bought a big juicy burger from a take-away nearby and shopped for bananas and peaches from a supermarket about to close for the evening. From there back to the hotel and another stint in the sauna before crashing out for the night at 22.00 just after phoning Ruth.
Thursday 24th July 2014 Day 7 Kuusomo (Finland )to Karasjok (Norway)
8884km to 9531km 3015km to 3694km 424 miles
I was now a day ahead of my original planned schedule except for a 28km (17 mile) drive to the next BIG starting in Ruka. I made a start at 09.30 to take advantage of the swim and sauna after breakfast for the last time. I parked the car in Ruka near the main road by a petrol station then started the climb of the Rukatunturi at 10.00 that took me an hour because I didn’t find the road up. Instead I struggled up a track to the rear of the hill passing under a short tunnel supporting the bobsleigh run. I walked from the mountain ski centre village to the top marked by the red and white tower, stayed half an hour taking photos and taking in the view then slid down the grassy track directly back to the tourist village at 12.30. From here the next point of interest was looking for the sign indication that I was passing over the Arctic Circle. I passed it according to the map but it wasn’t until I reached the next road junction at Salla that I saw the large chrome steel globe on crossing struts that indicated the longitude – and this was heavily guarded by a herd of antler deer bucks roaming the road here, slowing the traffic down. They may be scraggly and slow but they weren’t as bad and as dangerous as the old dears crossing the main road in Holmes Chapel. I took a diversion at Joutsijarvi and headed east for the Russian border past Salla. It was a long diversion but was curious and just to say that I’d been there and done that. I took some photos but didn’t go too close to the border control. From here I headed north for Kotala but this was a dirt road hugging the border fence with strict instructions not to venture east from the road. I didn’t go for a walk. Continuing on through Kotala the road became hard surface again and a good long straight road where I could speed safely to Savukoski village and fast again on a long straight section to the main road north at Kairala. Through Sodankyla and past the Museum of the Silent People that was worth a stop then to the next BIG at Saariselka, the Kaunispaa. I left the car at the petrol station asking permission then bundled out the bike at 18.00 for the half hour climb up the barren hillside to the wooden café and gift shop at the top. Also there are boards indicating the beginning of map making by using trigonometry and markers from nearby hills to map the ground. This of course became international and was only replaced decades ago with the introduction of geographic positioning satellites (GPS). I didn’t buy any gifts or food but remarked on the gift shop selling deer dung – it’s only imitation said the shop seller. I climbed the squat tower for the view and photos then an about turn and back down the windy road back to the car. I filled up with diesel (35€) at 19.40 then headed off north again through Ivalo and Inari where I had some traffic problems because of road-works just north of the town. Road 92 after Inari heading for Karasjok was long and straight for many miles so speeded but carefully taking no risks. It’s like a big dipper road, up and down but always straight. I stopped at a Sami camp area about halfway just to have a look at the way they live. Once at the border I was stopped by Norwegian customs who asked me where I was going. I told them eventually I hoped to reach Nordkapp. I was told of a possible threat to Norway from Syrian Jihadists who had warned they will infiltrate the country so the customs officials were being vigilant at the border crossings. They had a quick look at the car and contents and happy for me to continue. The scenery changed from this point and the road was twisting up and down in deep clefts. I arrived in Karasjok at 23.30 and parked in the small town car park by the girder bridge and slept solid all night, despite the midnight sun. I put on a blindfold!
Friday 25th July 2014 Day 8 Karasjok (Norway) to Hammerfest
9531km to 9980km 3694km to 4143km 280 miles
Waking at 06.00 I was in a bit of a daze for a while and shower and a breakfast in that order. I drove north among magnificent scenery with far reaching views to the west and came across a campsite at Skoganvarri. I asked if I could use the facilities and given a slip of paper with a code on it. I thought I needed that to enter the scrub up area and was puzzled when I I wandered round looking for it unsuccessfully so returned to question it. The warden thought I wanted internet facilities and I replied saying that at 07.00 in the morning and still half asleep that was the last thing on my mind. He directed me to the loos and gave me the code to get hot water and so enjoyed a reviving shower and shave. Feeling like a new man I wandered back to the reception for breakfast where a pretty Lithuanian girl working a summer break made me breakfast for 120 NOK (£12). I had plenty; scrambled egg, bacon, other meats, bread, cheese, yogurt, apple and strawberries. That would keep me going for a few hours! I was there 2 hours chatting to the girl and taking photos of the lake at the edge of the campsite on a very warm morning. Leaving at 09.00 I had a fantastic drive north after descending to Laksalv and the northern fjord, Porsangerfjorden. The route along the fjord for the next 180km (113 miles) is breathtakingly beautiful and even more interesting past Smortfjord. I stopped to take a look at the white wooden slatted church at Kistrand where there was a person mowing the grass so asked him a little about the area. He told me about German shipping that harboured along here during the war. After Smortfjord there are two lit tunnels and all the way a rocky coastline, cliffs by the side of the road. It’s stunning scenery past Repvag. After reaching Kafjord the road bends to the left and I could see the continuation of the road below heading for the long tunnel thunder Mageroysundet channel that separates Mageroya containing Nordkapp from the mainland. A descent to the tunnel that drop then rises under the channel and 5km under the water to emerge at Store Altsula and some pretty cottages around a small cove. The village of Sarnes through the next short tunnel is indicated as a film-set area. With it’s small harbour and Sami tent structures behind the stilted buildings it’s easy to see it’s a good location. One more tunnel and I reached Honningvag, the most northerly town in the world – though Hammerfest claims it because this is only classed as a village but it’s plenty big enough to be a town. I parked up at the road junction for Skarsvag and cycled the 17km to Nordkapp in 2 hours. It was up most of the way except for a dip approx 3km before the end of the road and a short dip before it then a final up to the tourist complex#. It was disappointing to have fog drop over the area on the last few kilometres. I wheeled the bike to the large metallic globe over the rough ground at the rear of the complex and took photos and accepted an offer of a person to take photos of me with the bike. A Danish man also took my photo at the complex entrance where there’s an indication of the GPS latitude so had to have that. It was a pity that the time I was there it was in heavy fog and as I left it started to rain. Fortunately I had rainwear with me but my cycle shoes got very wet. Part way back the fog and rain lifted and had blue sky again back to the car but it had been raining here also. I had two hours at Nordkapp to savour the moment of the furthest north I had ever been. Back to the car I changed clothes and drove south back to Laksalv where I filled up with diesel amidst a flurry of excitement by Japanese in a minivan who found it difficult to pay by card at the unmanned pump. From there I made my way to Alta but missed the turning at Skaldi while thinking about calling at the hotel there but didn’t as it didn’t look inviting. I found myself on the road to Hammerfest and it was only at the massive cantilever bridge at Kylesund that I realised where I was so might as well continue on for Hammerfest 15miles away. Hammefest itself is on an island called Kvaloya Fala joined by this bridge. I was welcomed into the town by a huge ferocious looking polar bear before the drop down into the town. I wasn’t impressed with the place as it’s just a sprawl along the fjord and much industry as well as road-works. There are three hotels in the town and I chose the Rica just north of the church. It was expensive, especially the meal later but I told myself that I’ll be sleeping in the car again the next few nights.
Saturday 26th July 2014 Day 9 Hammerfest to Skibotn
9980km to 10361km 4143km to 4524km 238 miles
I had a wander around Hammerfest in the morning visiting the docks and a look inside the modern church on the south edge of the town. I read on a board in Hammerfest that in the war the Germans levelled the town and only an old church was left standing. I saw the small red church further south just on the edge of the town. It was raining in the morning so just as well I wasn’t cycling. I left Hammerfest at 11.00 and took a photo of the huge polar bear that greeted me on entry yesterday. The large cantilever bridge spanning the island to the mainland was worth a stop at to take photos and of the channel. From there back through the string of villages and the speed restrictions and into Skaldi where I went wrong yesterday. The way was now south west a long distance down to Alta, arriving at 12.45. Alta is a fair size place and it took a while to drive through at the low speed restriction of 40kph. Once at the other side of the town and on the edge of the built up area I spotted the indication for the bronze age rock drawings so parked to have a look. I walked the boardwalks off to the left from the museum buildings for 500 metres and there they were on the left etched on the broad flat rocks. The outlines of people and animals are in a light red colour each about 100cm across and there’s plenty of them as you walk the paths that bend down the hillside. Back to the car and heading north now where the road hugs the side of the Altafjordan then east away from Finnmark and into Tromso district then south to Birtavarre village for the start of my next BIG. It was about time too as I’d driven much of the day and it was now 17.45 as I parked the car south of the village for a 20km bike ride to the road. summit (well, track really) at Guoasjavri Lake. It took me 2 ½ hours to reach the lake – 20.15 at the top but no problem with daylight I knew, it wouldn’t go dark. I returned to the car at 21.15. The way up at first was fairly easy following the coming down from the heights. Soon I came to a small car park on the right and a description board of what I could expect ahead. From that point the road begins to rise as it traverses the mountainside in short hairpins and mostly a dusty hard earth track. I came to a long wooden bridge, wide planks span the gorge and metal rails on the sides. There were plenty of sheep acting like Horatio but they soon moved. After the bridge the road continues to rise in short bends, I counted 15, until a clearing and a straight section ahead that leads to a squat white block by a small reservoir. This wasn’t the top and could see the road snaking up the next rise. Eventually I reached a gate that barred the way straight on but the indication to the right and further up the track led to the lake almost at the Swedish border. The track rises further by the side of the lake a little but no point in carrying on as it would end only a little higher. I took the usual photos and displayed my BIG shirt on the saddle for a splash of colour and BIG support then turned tail and carefully freewheeled back down the track to the bends. I hit a stone far too fast and felt my tyre getting soft. I didn’t want to walk the whole way so risked it and rode on. Fortunately there was enough air left in the front tyre to get back to the car cycling. I would fix the tube tomorrow. Back to the car and headed off again further west. It was only 30 miles to Skiboten and I planned to stay there tonight. I arrived at 22.15 and soon found a sign to the right indicating ‘bed & breakfast’, that would do me. I booked in at 22.30 and a good place to stay at a reasonable price.
Sunday 27th July 2014 Day 10 Skibotn to Jerisjarvi, Muonio (Finland)
10361km to 10687km 4524km to 4850km 204 miles
I started off from the country hotel at 11.00 after talking for too long with the receptionist. I paid 600NOK for the B&B (£60) I left the car at the hotel and cycled the E6 flat road along the fjord then took the E8 that rises immediately away from the coast. The first point of interest was a brown sign on the right indicating that this was the Northern Lights route but not much chance of seeing them in the summer months. For the next 5km at the time there were many roadworks taking place and noticed that the road was being re-routed in places to remove bends. Following this the road goes up gradually passing heather and gorse and rocky outcrops before reaching a gushing waterfall passing under a bridge. From this point the way ahead is steeper and becomes more wild. I pass some buildings to the left then reach the Norwegian/Finnish border just after the blue height marker of Galggogobba which is higher than Kilpisjarvi. To reach Kilpisjarvi I dropped down to the lakeside to reach the redwood café in the village, 2. ½ hours from my start of the day. I took a look round, a few photos then back up the road to the road summit at Galggogobba and the border. On the way back I took some photos of the waterfall under the bridge and of the fjord above Skibotn. I took an hour to return to the hotel, returning at 14.45. at the reception I remarked how hot it was as I asked to refill my water bottles. The receptionist asked would I like to take a swim and use the sauna? Yes please! I had the indoor swimming pool and sauna to myself and enjoyed two and half hours relaxation before moving on at 17.15. I drove back over the same road cycled, called in at Kilpisjarvi café for a drink and sat by the lake for a while then drove further south heading for Muonio. Rain suddenly started then a terrific thunderstorm. I was so glad I was driving as it was really ferocious, so much so that the windscreen wipers couldn’t cope so I stopped and sat in the car until it eased. By now it was getting late but at least I didn’t have to be anxious about darkness. The rain stopped and the air was fresher and made up time on a good road to Kaaresuvanto where I filled the tank again, a garage by a large wooden café. From here to Muonio and took a photo at the Swedish border then headed east for Jerisjarvi lake where I found a quiet off-road spot to park up and doss down for the night in the passenger seat at 22.30.
Monday 28th July 2014 Day 11 Jerisjarvi, Muonio (Finland) to Narvik
10687km to 11000km 4850km to 5163km 196 miles
Very warm in the car and couldn’t sleep any longer so bundled the bike out of the car and rode the Pallastunturi climb, taking 2 ½ hours at my slow speed made more of a challenge by being half asleep and unkempt and missing any chance of eating breakfast as there was nowhere to stop on the way. From the lake there is one left turn then the road continues onward and upward with only the pine trees for company either side of the road, no views until the top was reached with the wooden building of the Hotel Pallas directly ahead on a plateau. Guarding the entrance were a herd of dark reindeer. The first defence was the muck they made on the road before the hotel. They’re docile enough though so parted and I was spared the closeness to the antlers. I walked into the hotel in my dishevelled state and asked if I could take breakfast and have a shower, I’d brought my shaver and travel towel with me expectantly. It was OK to take breakfast but unlike other morning I would have to pay 5€ to take a shower. On the east side of the road I thought that was a bit steep but I badly needed it and can’t face the day without a shave. The breakfast set me back 14€ so wondered what the cost would be to stay here overnight, glad I didn’t. at 10.30 I freewheeled back down to the car waiting for me at the lake and made my way east then south to BIG 46, Tunturi-Yllas through Muotkavaara and Akaslompolo. It was really easy, too easy so biked down the other side and approached the top again from the south, it was more of a challenge from this direction. From the north there is a smooth surface cycle-path all the way to the ski-centre hotel at the top. I thought it easy because I completely forgot about the 1.8km track to the left (east) of the hotel car park that leads to the top of the ski run and is the top of the BIG. I’m not going back to complete 1.8km and hopefully the Challenge-BIG will allow me to claim it as I came up the south side from Yllasjarvi. Then drove back over at 13.45 heading for Kolari and the Swedish border. I crossed over the open border and drove along the Muonioalven valley to Pajala the headed west along route 395 from Juhonpieti following the Tornealven river to Vittangi. I remember there were huge roadworks taking place along much of the length of this road and at the Vittangi junction. At Merasjarvi I took a break at an outdoor centre wooden café. From Vittangi along a scenic road heading west towards Svappavaara, most of the way it was roadworks so couldn’t appreciate the scenery. Heading north on a right turn and along to Kiruna this road was much better and made good time. I had the evening to cycle the Lousavaara BIG just north of the most northerly town in Sweden. I found it easily enough as there are good road indications pointing the way to the disused mines of Lousavaara. It was very windy at the car park below the hill. The climb begins to the left of the car park and totally a wide gravel track to the top. On gravel it’s difficult with a road bike but not too steep so it was possible to cycle with thin road tyres. It took me half an hour but half an hour down also because of the tricky surface. At the top I took plenty of photos of the old mine workings and of the girder structure that was to be a hotel but the project was abandoned due to strong objections from the Sami community. I was away from Kiruna heading north west for Narvik. Along the way the drive along Tornetrask lake is scenic and enjoyed the drive. From the Swedish border across the narrowest strip of Norway to Narvik is also interesting scenery and mainly downwards to the coast. Once there I looked for a hotel as I thought I deserved it tonight – badly needed a real bed and not a reclining passenger seat. I tried a couple of places comparing prices, the best – even though it was the biggest- was the large Rica Hotel tower, the largest building in Narvik. I sorted my rucksack into a nuch neater and organised shape then walked across the road to a pizzeria and enjoyed a pizza and beer then back to the room and collapsed at 23.00.
Tuesday 29th July 2014 Day 12 Narvik to Saltfjellet
11000km to 11568km 5163km to 5731km 355 miles
I was ahead of myself by a day so took time off from driving and cycling to explore Narvik on a walkabout. The hotel cost was 965 NOK (£96), not cheap but it was a good night’s sleep and a really good breakfast – with doggy bag for lunch! I was up at 08.30 with the sorted rucksack to move the car from the pay site below the hotel before the traffic warden plastered a ticket on it. From 09.00 the day’s charging fees apply. I moved the car to a back-street then went for breakfast. The only drawback was the huge noisy crowd in there presumably from a coach tour as they were talking across the tables – to make it worse they were American, don’t dig the terrible loud twang in a half awake state. The breakfast was good though. I had three hours exploring Narvik later and took the advice of the hotel receptionist who gave me a route around the town taking in the sites worth seeing, mainly a circular tour around the old houses and the quiet harbour area and the war museum. I drove out of Narvik at 12.00 midday along the E6 heading west then south. On the westerly route I noticed the main road included a ferry crossing from Ulvik to Ulsvag and thought it wouldn’t be a pay ferry but part of the road system. How wrong I was, the crossing fee is 90 NOK, £9 one way. On reflection though thinking back a few years to a crossing from the Italian mainland to Elba that set me back 100€ so this was a bargain by comparison. From here it was a long drive south to Storjet for BIG 10, Saltfjellet. I arrived there at 18.30 and parked at the country motel /restaurant/petrol station at the northern end then took two hours to cycle to the top. -30km. I reached the highest point, the blue plate and noticed the BIG sticker on one of the poles. I turned back at this point and would visit the Polar Circle centre in the morning. Back to the car, it was filthy. I gave it a good wash from a bucket next to the petrol pumps and ate in the café in Storjet. Later I drove back up the pass and parked for the night in a wide lay-by near the top and soon went to sleep.
Wednesday 30th July 2014 Day 13 Saltfjellet to Saxnas (Sweden)
11568km to 11937km 5731km to 6100km 231 miles
Woke up in the warm car and strong sunlight at 07.30 and pulled out the bike to continue the ride along to the Polar Circle building at 07.30 for the final 8km along the top to the café/shop. While there I had some breakfast (170NOK) and bought a magnet and made sure I filled in the ‘I’ve crossed the Arctic Circle’ certificate request for the staff there to email to me. I bought a magnet 39 NOK that says the same, got to boast of a small achievement, after all I did it the challenging way even though it was in two stages by bike. This morning’s early ride was really no effort though as I was merely cycling the upper valley, hardly any road gradient – just the southerly wind to contend with. There were plenty of troll objects on sale and said to the staff member that my wife would throw them at me if I returned home with any of those ugly souvineers. Arriving back at the car waiting for me at 10.30 I was on my way again and down to Mo I Rana heading for BIG 11 Umskardett. I left the car just south of the town in a roadside lay-by and cycled 2.1/4 hours to reach the road summit 13.15 to 15.30. I had 15 minutes there and took an hour to get back down to the car at 16.45. Near the beginning of the climb the road passes through a long cutting of red-brown rock then a steady uphill towards the tunnel. Later I drove back up and over to the other side. The top is by two small lakes either side of the road on the old road branching off to the right, 3km further on from the tunnel entrance. Down the other side of the pass now driving I passed through Umbukta village 2km from the top then it was a further 2km to the Swedish border but I would never have known, there’s no defined border point here but the border is alongside the lake. Passing through Blavagan district it was a long drive through this part of Sweden to approach the final Swedish BIG of my tour. I drove lake scenery along the E12 to Forsmark then turned off for Dikanas hoping to find accommodation there. The road to Dikanas through Umnes and Marken is not much better than a cinder track for 27km though and slowed me down. Dikanas ,I discovered, wasn’t a place to stay. There’s a small quaint wooden tourist office there on the open green area bedecked with a variety of European flags and a grass roof but other than that just signposts four ways. I took the south west road for Vilhelmina and stayed on this pine tree-lined road hugging the shore of the long lake Vojmsjon as far as Stalon then to the west to Bangnas where I stopped to take a photo of the rapids by the girder bridge. I had a great deal of rain along this road and glad I wasn’t cycling here. Even so the road is scenic with the long lake, river and more rapids. I was really fortunate not to be caught out cycling in the rain today. I found a YHA and a hotel complex at Saxnas, opting for the YHA at 420 NOK (£42) – only 9 NOK for a really good meal as meal time had finished and the staff apologised that it was warmed up therefore only a quarter of the price – I was even given a free beer! It didn’t bother me – a great meal! I’m not sophisticated! To the room and I sorted my bags out again and to sleep at midnight. I had the small dormitory to myself.
Thursday 31st July 2014 Day 14 Saxnas (Sweden) to Trondheim
11937km to 12388km 6100km to 6551km 282 miles
I had a wonderful breakfast made even better by smuggling out a huge doggy bag that would keep me going all day, probably more. The breakfast was a real smorgasbord of meat and cheeses. From Saxnas the way was the continuation to the west along the lake and parked the car at Klimpfjall at the end of the lake Klimpviken. On the way the road crosses the meeting of two lakes by an interesting girder bridge near Stornas so worth a photo. Parking at the village shop and information centre unloaded the bike for its next conquest, the Stekkenjokk, BIG 33. After yesterday’s miserable weather it was a wonderful warm sunny day and really enjoyed this climb, 25km. it took me from 11.30 until 13.15 to reach the top then one hour down. The top is indicated by a Sami tent structure and in there is an information board. The whole area here is mined for minerals and the road has to be kept open all year for transporting the ore. At 14.30 I was back at the car then drove back over the Stekkenjokk to Lidberget where I read on a notice board that the forests were habitat for arctic fox, reindeer, Siberian jays, otters and golden eagles. I found a Swedish flag on the road near a petrol station at Stora Blasion – my last chance as the next border crossing is my last before returning home. At Gaddada just before the border I filled up with diesel (254.29 SWK) as it’s cheaper than in Norway, then called in at the tourist information office. I was told the waterfalls in the valley south of there around Gussvattnet were worth a visit so I had a short cycle ride to explore the area. From there I drove on through the non-existent border point and followed route 74 on a long descent between cliffs and river scenery, rapids and lakes, then on to the main E6 road that runs north-south through Norway and continued on into Trondheim. These were busy roads driving into the city and of course there were toll charges. When I arrived I had difficulty finding reasonable price accommodation asking at the hotels. It was soon dark so decided to park the car art a central place and walk to the hotels to enquire. Eventually I came back to the first one I tried near the rail station as this worked out the cheapest, but far from cheap. Parking fees were extortionate so parked the car a mile away at the edge of the city in Sluppen at the first houses I saw. It was too late to eat after 22.00 so settled for fruit from my rucksack and an early night
Friday 1st August 2014 Day 15 Trondheim to Hjerkinn (North- East of Dombas)
12388km to 12675km 6551km to 6838km 179 miles
It was raining this morning. After an unexciting bland breakfast and depositing my bag in the left luggage at the hotel I wandered around the city for the morning and visited the King Olaf fair near the cathedral, apparently it was a celebration day today. I saw archery, mediaeval sword fighting, blacksmith craft and plenty of people in costumes. I took a look in the cathedral and wandered the harbour area then wandered back to the hotel to collect the rucksack and walk the mile back to the car. it was still raining and this clouded my opinion of the city as it’s probably an OK place but I thought it dismal and wouldn’t spend the day here as planned. I drove out and away from the city suburbs at 12.20 heading for Melhus and Storen then took a left at Ulsberg, keeping to the main road north of Tynset to Alvdal where I parked up at a petrol station and waited for a heavy deluge to subside. After that there was no rain the rest of day, in fact the late afternoon and evening was really warm again. I cycled off to find and climb Tron, BIG 12 but had great difficulty finding it. At first I took a road that didn’t appear to climb as I was cycling north above the valley that had driven before, from the north. I saw leaflets in a box by the side of the road describing the route up to Tron and this spurred me on but along the wrong road. I did an about turn and headed back to the garage and asked there. An attendant assured me that the road I took was correct and that I should take a right turn off it so this time I took the car and looked for the turning. Again I couldn’t find it so asked some locals to told me to look for a board on the other side of the road about 2km from Alvdal – I couldn’t find it. I turned back, parked the car and poured over the map and just then my ‘angel in disguise’ stopped in a car behind me and asked if I needed help- yes please! Some angel- he looked almost like Laurie Bradley back home – and had the character to go with it. He told me to follow him and he would take the road for Tron then I could go on ahead. Sure enough, there it was 2km from Tron and it was a wide track that before I ignored as thought it was a farm track. ‘Laurie’ told me of a 53 year old man he knows that regularly cycles Tron and once cycled to the globe at the top in 55 minutes. After I cycled it myself later I found it hard to believe as the upper part to the globe isn’t just gravel but also a great thickness of shale, so much that I couldn’t ride the bike and can’t believe it’s possible with a mountain bike either. If it was true then I realised how super fit that man is. It took me 2.½ hours to reach the globe and the final zig-zags from the small monument at the bottom of the final section took well over an hour. I was in sight of the globe but cloud was descending quickly and it was now becoming dusk. It would be foolhardy to continue even though it was less than a kilometre. It was difficult braking on the way back. I made it back down to the wooded lower section just as it was going dark, and back to the car at 22.00. There’s a hotel near the garage – perfect for tomorrow’s continuation – but the room cost was over 1000 NOK. I drove on, took a left turn and headed for my next climb for tomorrow on the way to Dombas. I saw another hotel at Folldal but it was closed. The next one was at Hjerkinn so stayed there. This was also expensive at 950 NOK. It’s a beautiful hotel but I should have stayed at the one in Alvdal to take the climb tomorrow from Folldal. As it was I would have to go back there now to Folldal to complete the BIG – Dovrefjall BIG 13. The hotel at Hjerkinn specialises in horse riding and there’s a large stables and many horses there. I found out that horseriding from here to the top of Dovrefjell and the highest point of Snoheim is very popular for people staying here. There was no meal for me this evening, far too late at 23.00 so I took to the room and slept.
Saturday 2nd August 2014 Day 16 Hjerkinn (North- East of Dombas) to Andalses
12675km to 12920km 6838km to 7083km 153 miles
A fantastic breakfast, another wonderful morning smorgasbord variety with plenty in doggy bags for later. I now had plenty of apples and bananas and made up bread, meat and cheese. At 08.00 I drove back down to Folldal and deposited the car, out with the bike and cycled back again up open countryside and wild hilly country, passing the hotel and horses and reached the north-south E6 artery road Kirkenes in the extreme north east on the Russian border all the way to Trelleborg south of Malmo on the southern Swedish coast. This must be the longest single number road in Europe. I crossed the road following the signs for Snoheim but only as far as the viewpoint as the road ends here. After crossing the main road there is a road fork on the minor road. The left fork leads to the youth hostel and railway station for Hjerkinn. I was impressed with this as it’s all in dark wood and very ornate. I took some photos. At the YHA I asked for a printed list of all hostels between Trondheim and Oslo as I really don’t want to pay exorbitant hotel price accommodation. The right fork on the minor road goes through a village and past a fenced off army barracks, tanks etc. Shortly after this the road veers to the right and up where there’s a large car park for people who want to take in the view or walk the 2km along the well worn path to the higher viewpoint of Snoheim, the highest point in the area. I decided against the walk, I had reached my objective. The car park has upright stakes all the way round, to protect cars from reindeer? I took my bike to a suitable spot by a small radio mast for taking photos and got to pose! Back down to the main road after seeing the ornate rail station then descended again to Folldal to pick up the car at 13.00. From there it was back up to the crossroads below Dovrefjell for the fifth time then I drove south passing an interesting area of dark wooden houses on the right so took a look at this along a drive in. this wasn’t a village as such it’s just a tourist area of typical wooded houses with grass roofing containing gift shops, cafés and a museum of local wildlife – human and other. Back to the main road I continued on to Dombas being careful of the speed restrictions as most of the main roads have cameras. In Dombas I filled up with diesel and continued south to Nord Sel, north of Otta. So far the day had been wonderful for the weather, really bright sunshine but as I drove under the south flank of the Blaho mountain the sky was becoming very dark. When I parked up at the Kiwi supermarket car park in Vagamo at the base of Blaho BIG 14, the heavens opened . it was another huge deluge like at Tron yesterday so I waited patiently – and hopefully – for it to go off. Eventually at approx 16.00 the rain eased so I risked it, however I put on rainwear. I started the climb away from Vagamo and soon took the rainwear off. I was climbing below tree cover and it was steep from the start. It was a real bonus because minutes later the sun appeared and the rest of the day it was glorious. The only drawback was a slow puncture in the rear wheel but for this climb I continued pumping it and it got me up and down but the tube will have to be replaced. After approx 4km the road becomes gravel but perfectly good enough for my 30cm tyre widths. Higher up there was a barrier at a ‘T’ junction by wooden houses with grass roofing. I slipped under the barrier. Motorists have to pay a toll to raise the pole. I continued on under tree cover for a while but soon into open barren country then reached a group of houses where the track bends right then left then a pay booth is reached but not for motorists, this time it was to purchase fishing tickets for the lake nearby to the left of the road. From this point the road becomes steeper and also rougher as the gravel gives way to a stony surface. Either side of the road are vertical poles to indicate the road in snow cover conditions. I reached a plateau and a few pools then could see ahead of me the final section of the climb on the dark hill in front, topping it is the tall tower that in my mind was taunting me to ‘come and get me’. I took up the challenge and struggled on up the steeper section and aware that the weather could be against me as dark clouds now covered the mountain top. A final shift of direction to the south (right) and I reached the top at 19.00 – but it was raining heavily again. I was disappointed as I couldn’t take photos. All I got was the last lake at the foot of the final climb. Back down the mountain braking carefully over the stones my hands began to ache with the pull on the levers but I didn’t dare to let go. At the lake on the plateau below that final climb the rain eased and it was dry again before the tree-line and freewheeled back to the small town with great views looking down to Vagamo and the lake Vagavatnet. Back to the car at 20.30 and drove back retracing my way to Nord Sel then north again to Dombas but this time I took the road heading north west for Andalsnes. I stopped at a lay-by at Bresnas to eat some of the doggy bag bread and cheese then continued on in warm weather along the valley where the lakes gave way to cliffs ahead that became narrower and higher the further north I went. To the left is the backside of Trollstigen that I would climb tomorrow. I passed through shadowy Remsdalen, the road hemmed in from both sides and overshadowed by the huge Romsdalshornet to the right. The huge white cliffs came right down to the road. Eventually the road emerged into a flat area a few kilometres from Andalsnes and at Bronsletta the road to the left begins innocently enough over a narrow bridge but eventually the trolls begin to act and churn up this quiet road into a Peer Gynt spectacular as the hairpins tackle the huge ascent of the Trollstigen, Norway’s match to the Stilferjoch. This was to look forward to tomorrow though. Right now I was just concerned with eating and sleeping, hopefully in that order. I parked up in npisy Andalsnes as there was a rock festival in full flow. The cacophony was emanating from the edge of the fjord from a set up stage complete with strobe lighting. I didn’t want to hang about here. I found a pizzeria on the parallel road a block back away from the fjord and sat and had a quiet pizza and beer, quiet except for some youth letting off steam in the street down below. I was sitting on the veranda looking down at street life. Later I made my way back to the car parked in a side-street and drove south again for the Trollstigen turn-off and parked just before it on the left, next to a French mobile home caravan for company then organised my passenger seat bed and kipped down for the night.
Kiwi supermarket, Vagamo 4 beers 76 NOK (£7.60)a litre carton of orange drink 19 NOK (£1.90) and crisps 19 NOK
Sunday 3rd August 2014 Day 17 Andalses to Leikanger (Vestkapp)
12920km to 13168km 7083km to 7331km 155 miles
Woke after a warm night in the car at 07.00. There was plenty to eat in the car from previous hotel days so after a wash, shave and change of clothing I drove on a little way to the first campsite at the foot of Trollstigen BIG 16, bought a couple of coffees there and took a shower then at 09.00 feeling as refreshed as I’d slept in a bed all night. I pulled the bike out, put a new tube in the rear wheel then began the climb of Trollstigen. The climb took me 2.½ hours and one hour back down with 1.1/2 hour at the restaurant , gift shop and walkway viewpoints., returning to the car at 14.00. Trollstigen is fantastic, a classic hairpin smooth surfaced mountain road. One major waterfall that falls among the hairpins, or could say that the road winds itself around the waterfall as it threads its way up the mountainside. The road always comes back to and crosses the waterfall at one point by a single span bridge half way up. On the way there are smaller waterfalls. At first the road begins innocently enough through a wooded area following the river upstream then a couple of turns up through the woods to reach a viewpoint with information boards about the construction of the road. There were plenty of people here staring up at the winding road and I was excited about the prospect of the challenge ahead. From this point the trees are left behind and it’s barren landscape all the way up. I reached the café, gift shop and walkway to the viewpoints overlooking the road now below but I continued on for 3km as this wasn’t the top of the climb. From this point though it’s a tamer gradient, just a gentle rise around several bends to the top among the rocks. The top itself is indicated by blue metal plates for the equivalent of county boundaries – and there’s a BIG sticker on the first board to the left! I took the usual photos and asked a tourist to take some of me posing then I freewheeled back to the viewpoint complex and walked the boards to the three viewpoints that overlook the snaking road below as it careers down. It was a fantastic view this day and the weather was perfect. I was a little anxious before as I’ve had bad weather on recent days and read before leaving home of the frequent low cloud conditions here obliterating any view but I had the lot, a wonderful experience. I bought a magnet for home and a certificate to prove I’d cycled here then slowly made my way back down the mountain with frequent photo stops. Back to the car I returned to a much quieter Andalsnes, shopped for some fruit and drink from the supermarket at the road junction then took a left in the direction for Alesund. The road immediately goes through a tunnel to Innfjorden then follows the coastal line of the Romsdalsfjorden to Skorgeneset then over Landedalen following the northern edge of Storfjorden to Sulesund for the ferry across to Hareid. There was plenty of traffic along here on the way to the ferry and the final 12km was a narrow road. I didn’t have too long to wait for the ferry, about ½ an hour so took in the views from the old jetty here. This was a wide crossing so the ticket price (98 NOK) was more expensive than later crossings on the way to Bergen. From Hareid the road goes island hopping along causeways to reach Arvik for the ferry to Koparnes (67 NOK) to the south. From there it’s a good road to Aheim where there’s a large Sibelco quarry then a really scenic road to the right, west to Leikanger. For the first section the road skirts an arm of fjord and an interesting small harbour at Kjode. At the end of the small estuary the road becomes narrow and enters woods as far as Sandvika where to emerge on the wider road from Selje. From this point from the road there’s open views across the fjord to enter straggling Leikangar. One observation I must find an answer for; I notice on many Norwegian cars there are green registration plates. I parked the car just above Leikangar and cycled the final climb of the day, Vestkapp, BIG 15. The correct starting point for the climb is from the small lake at Dalsboen but I thought that was only a short distance. I soon found out why the climb begins from there! Not only is there a long downhill section from above Leikangar to Dalsboen but the climb from the lake is particularly steep. I wish I had started from the lake as I missed the sunset from the tower on Vestkapp and this would have been a perfect view worth a a few photos as the sun sets across the North Sea. The bike ride was 10km to Dalsboen then a very steep 5km on a gravel road to Vestkapp – and I thought before reaching here that it would be an easy one! I started from Leikangar at 20.00 and arrived back at 23.00. I had half an hour at the tower topped with a white globe on the barren hillside and ¾ of an hour to return to the car. when there a Norwegian had just taken photos of the sunset and was packing up. I asked if he would take my photo here and said I think I deserved it for getting up here! It was a pity that I’d missed the setting sun in my struggle to get to the globe. Although on the way back the sun had set it was still only dusk and I could ride back safely in half light and even back at the car to sleep the night I could still see. I drove back down to the coastal village and parked up at a quiet grassy driveway above the fjord and slept.
Monday 4th August 2014 Day 18 Leikanger (Vestkapp) to Grotli (Dalsnibba)
13168km to 13390km 7331km to 7553km 139 miles
I started off early from Leikangar. There was nowhere to eat here so drove in search of breakfast and a shower. I had a long way to go before I found somewhere at Nordfjordeid 75km. I searched for a hotel where I could have breakfast, found one but it was closed on Mondays. Soon though I found a café, and it was good one – Caffe Toppen. I had warm two pizza pieces 41 NOK each and as much coffee as I wanted for 26 NOK, total 108 NOK (£10.80) and this filled me up. No shower but I was able to lock the door and shave then wash thoroughly . I was there for over an hour at the café but felt just great when I drove off again. I drove on following the fjord coasts to Hjelle to begin the climb of Gamle Strynefjellsvei BIG 18 at 12.30. it took me 2.1/2 to reach the top of the climb and 45 minutes to arrive back at the car at 16.00 then drove back up part way to the 14km tunnel for the Dalsnibba area. Gamle Strynefjellsvei was a really enjoyable route as the majority of the traffic takes the tunnel route rather than the scenic road over the top. Starting from Hjelle the first 8km is along a wooded section but a busy road until the waterfall and sweep to the right away from the tunnel. A road off to the left here is narrow and pleasant with great views back down to the valley to the fjord and this road continues upward steeply and past the white old hotel on the left overlooking the valley where the road opens out into an upper valley with sweeping mountainsides on both sides of the road. There was still snow on the mountains and even more further up as I followed the rushing stream and cascades. At the upper section there were walls of snow either side of the road. Finally at the top there is a small deserted skiing area with an old chairlift. The small café and chairlift were closed in the summer months. A little further on I reached the top of the pass alongside a lake off to the right and took photos at the top at the lakeside. From here I made my way back down again, some curves near the top then the road winds its way back down to the hotel then some more final curves back to the main road and to the car parked near the tunnel in Hjelle. I later drove back up and through the tunnel to arrive in the wide barren area of Breiddalen. From there it’s a classic scenic lake and mountain road up to Djuppvasshyttsa but after that a fog shrouded the northern side of the lower Dalsnibba climb most of the way down to Geiranger. I parked up by the port in the small town then began cycling the Dalsnibba hoping that the fog would lift by time I reached the higher section – it didn’t. I started off at 17.00 and took 3.1/2 hours to reach the car park at the top and I had it all to myself, no one there. It was no wonder I was alone, the café and gift shop were closed anyway after 18.00 but there wasn’t much point in anyone except silly cyclists being here as the view was totally obliterated by the fog. I could only see a few yards in front of me, just occasionally it would be clear where the mountainside breaks up the fog from the north. I was really disappointed and planned to cycle the mountain again tomorrow. On the way up the lower section I came across a young couple from Brighton who were really laden with camping equipment, rear and front panniers. We chatted for a while and I gave them a positive indication that when I drove over here earlier there was no fog past Djuppvasshyttsa. When I cycled back to that point I could see there was still no fog on the south side and it was not as bad on the higher section looking up but it descended as I reached about the halfway point from Djuppvasshyttsa. A couple of German women in a car stopped me to ask about the weather conditions before I reached the hotel on the way up. They spoke no English but my German came in handy. I told them to drive slowly and carefully as it was bad until about halfway down. I took a couple of photos at the top just in case the weather was also bad tomorrow. I noticed a BIG sticker on the pole at the top left of the car park. On speaking with Heiko Linnert a few days after I returned home he informed me that a Swiss member, Ard Oostra, had placed it there a month before. He’d also placed the sticker at the highest point plate at Saltfjellet. I picked up a black stone at the top to keep as souvenir back home. At 20.00 I made my way back down the road to the road junction then the lower section where it started to rain. I became thoroughly soaked before I reached the car at 21.30. I quickly dried and changed feeling very cold so put the heat on in the car and drove back up slowly in the fog to the junction where I noticed the couple from Brighton at the doorway of the hotel and pleased that they had made it to that point safely. I carried on over in better weather and looked for a hotel. There was no way I could sleep in the car tonight and badly needed a warm shower. I came across Hotel Grotli Hoyfjells to the left of the road wasn’t too concerned about the cost – not too bad though, 850 NOK with dinner extra. I was getting late – 22.30 but I was still able to take dinner but only just. I was advised to go straight in there. I would have preferred to shower first but it was warm in the hotel and I must have looked like a dishevelled tramp among those well dressed people. I enjoyed a much needed filling warm buffet meal and ate loads. No doggy bag taken though1 I took some fruit for later that’s all. As I was eating the staff were setting out the breakfast utensils for morning – nothing like a good hint to eat quickly! I needed plenty of coffee to warm up. I took room 316. I phoned Ruth on my mobile from the room. She told me she had been in contact with Cheryl. I wrote up the diary and slept well after a long hot shower and collapsed before midnight into a sound sleep.
Tuesday 5th August 2014 Day 19 Grotli (Dalsnibba) to Gaupne (Lustrafjorden)
13390km to 13581km 7331km to 7522km 119 miles
After a really filling breakfast and stashing away of plenty of extra food for lunch I sorted the car of rubbish then drove the 26km to the Dalsnibba upper section and unloaded the bike and freewheeled down to Geiranger on a beautiful summer morning – what a difference from yesterday. I had a look around the jetty area for a while then started cycling the Dalsnibba at 09.30, taking 2.1/2 to reach the top. It was easier this time as there was no bad weather to contend with. Even the upper section seemed less effort and reached the top in half an hour from Djuppvasshyttsa. This time there were plenty of tourists up there. It was crowded with cars and coaches and not much space to move with the bike. I got a tap on the shoulder – it was the young couple from Brighton met yesterday. They had been able to camp last night but wasn’t easy putting the tent up in the driving rain. They had hitch-hiked up here this morning. I asked them to take a photo of me against the pole with the BIG sticker and told them about the club suggesting they join it. I took plenty of photos with a good view down to the fjord and a ship that was anchored down there in Geiranger Harbour. This final section of the climb was a 500 metre height difference in 5km up from the hotel. I returned to the car and drove east again past last night’s hotel and on some distance to Lom. I stopped for a while to look at the stave church from the outside, a few photos then to a bank to change the remaining Swedish kroner into Norwegian then drove south west to Galdesanden, arriving at 14.30. I parked opposite the small youth hostel and asked the warden there how far it was to the next petrol station west as I was now less than half full. I was told the next place that way was Fortun. I was now at the foot of BIG 22 Juvasshytta, a 15km climb that took me 2.1/2 hours to reach the old wooden café and hostel at the top. It ‘s a long laborious road especially past the tree-line at the only village. The village though seems to be a hotel complex with individual dark wooden chalets and is surrounded by a tall fence of wood stakes. In the centre is an expensive public house. I took a look inside but kept money intact, don’t need anything especially their prices. Just past the village the road comes to a pay barrier, a drop pole. I said to a German dutifully paying his money “Das ist ein pech, ich gehen frei mit fahrad”. Just after the barrier there’s a really steep section. A few more kilometres where I thought I was near the top I saw the road ahead rising steeply again for a few kilometres and could see cars coming down at the end of the straight section from a bend to the left so it was a few more kilometres yet. Further up I could see the glacier to the right where people can stroll over the boardwalk directly into the glacier and try their luck hunting for gold. In recent months the remaining few kilometres of gravel road had received a hard surface. I was so glad of that. The only remaining rough section now was the final 300 metres on a slight descent to the hostel. I had a couple of coffees there and took a look at the mountain walking clothing for sale – about four times the price at home that are not in a sale! I was up there for about ¾ of an hour and back down to the car in an hour at 19.00. I picked up a shiny white stone up here to take home. The descent was scary coming back down, so steep. My hands were aching from pulling on the levers so had to stop frequently to let blood flow again. I decided I would adjust these brakes so that I didn’t have to pull the levers, just to touch them gently. This meant adjusting them so that on the downhill the blocks would touch the rims but for the uphill I could move the calliper levers up to widen the blocks from the rim. I would do that this evening. Back to the car and shortly on the right at Elvesaeter I noticed a huge column the height of Nelson’s column in Trafalgar Square. It’s very ornate with many faces of noblemen and knights. Must look up on the web what it is. From here 15km to Rustasaeter, the base for the 15km bike ride to BIG 19, Sognefjelhytta. Starting at 20.30 it took me 2 hours to reach the top at 22.30. There are s0me fantastic waterfalls on the way up on the left of the road. The final section past Krossbu consists of curves to the barren road summit above a lake. It was cold up here as the sun had dipped and arrived back to the car at dusk. I drove back over the climb, some snowy mountains to the left at a distance then attempted to drive as quickly as I could westwards to reach Fortun and fill up again. Ascending this side would have been far more difficult and it’s not as scenic. I asked at a hotel at Skjelden at the end of the Lusterfjorden but it was far too expensive so continued along the fjord in the dark now and eventually found off road parking in a church car park on the edge of the fjord just to the east of Gaupne and kipped down for the night in the car at 00.30.
Wednesday 6th August 2014 Day 20 Gaupne (Lustrafjorden) to Ovre Ardal
13581km to 13808km 7522km to 7749km 142 miles
Drove into Gaupre and found a campsite of to the right at 07.00. There was nobody about but the warm showers were open! I had a wonderful refreshing dusche and shave then back to the car and away to the west again following the fjord to Marifjora where I found a hotel off the main road where I could buy a breakfast, the Hotel Torvis by the waterfront. I stayed an hour 08.30 – 09.30 for buffet breakfast at 150 NOK (£15). Later I drove on and noticed the turning to the left for Urnes stave church but soon turned back when I found out I needed to take a ferry across the fjord to reach it. At Sogndalsfjora I stopped to take a photo of the bridge span over the fjord then passed through the small town heading west hugging the north shore of the Sognefjorden and eventually a quiet narrow road to reach Hella for the ferry to Dragsvik, 10.00 – 10.30 crossing. The fare was 61 NOK. From Dragsvik I took a right and headed for the foot of my next cycle climb, BIG 24 Nystolenskardet. After three small tunnels I found a lay-by on the left just before the bridge from where the road begins to rise just beyond it. This is at the end of the small estuary from the fjord at Ulvastad. The rise begins gently enough through the dense tree cover but soon there’s the first bend to the left followed by a series of hairpins rising steadily up the mountainside. Above the trees now and I could see the huge crane from the lower slopes where the new summit café is being built. Currently only the foundations are being constructed and part of the framework for the walls and one day some future cyclist will be able to get a drink and eat there. For now though there are no places en-route to buy fodder for hungry and thirsty cyclists. The climb is interesting enough, passing over the small river after every road loop as it drops down the mountain. I had no water left now in the heat – it was a really warm day. I wanted to get some from this stream after every turn but it was too dangerous to lean over the grassy bank due to the steepness. I had hoped before reaching the top that there really was a café, there was according to my Rough Guide Norway guide book but it serves me right carrying a book that’s now 10 years out of date. It took me 2.1/2 hours to reach the top and cycled on a short way further as there’s still a gentle rise for 2km after reaching the nick of the mountain after the hairpins. After reaching the point where I could see over to the valley on the other side of the mountain I did an about turn and cycled back to the café of the future, took a few more photos and of the hairpins below then tried out my better adjusted brakes for the descent. This morning I had pulled the cable more so that the brake blocks would touch the rim for descent then all I had to do was apply minimal pressure to the levers rather than janking them hard. This saved getting lack of circulation and aching hands on the descent – wish I’d thought of it before but it works. For the uphills I undo the calliper levers so that the brake blocks are released from the rim sufficiently to clear the wheel. Back down to Ulvastad in less than an hour and went for the return ferry from Dragsvik to Hella at 16.00. I was heading east again now, back along the same road I drove along earlier today, however at Sogndalsfjorda I drove over the bridge span and headed south for Mannheller and another ferry crossing. On the way I saw the indications for another stave church so made the diversion to Kaupanger. This one was worth seeing as it’s quite large but it was closed, just as well so there’s not many tourists around to get in the way of photos. The ferry crossing over the Sognefjorden to Fodnes was followed by a road to the left just before the tunnel and road to Aurland. I was now driving on the south shore of Ardalsfjorden to head for Ovre Ardal and my second BIG of the day. This road passes through a series of tunnels as it hugs the shore, a very scenic route – except in the tunnels! I passed through Ovre Ardal and parked the car just beyond the small town and unloaded the bike for its evening adventure. It’s a really tough road to cycle right from the beginning at the start of BIG 21 Tyinosen. There are twists and turns immediately above the town and scary because there are three short tunnels unlit and all on the sharp bends so the other end of each can’t be seen until the turn in the tunnel is made. My heart was in my mouth hoping that no car would dare to come the other way because I would have to jump off on the steep and dark narrow sections. I was fortunate and came out back into the sunlight. Further up I noticed a road off to the right at an acute angle to the main road up, a gravel road that led up to a lake in the Berdalen area. I saw a cyclist heading off up there who had just overtaken me. Shortly afterwards is an avalanche gallery then a short tunnel followed later by the plateau and a lake on the right but this isn’t the top, that’s a further 8km. the road at this point is still an upward gradient but not steep, just windy that day. The whole area is dotted with wooden houses and I wondered if these were summer houses or perhaps Sami homes. I knew that the actual top of the BIG Tyinosen was off to the left for a short distance but I couldn’t find it and I was losing daylight hours and it was becoming colder. I would come back to this point with the car in the morning and search for the final few kilometres to the top. I took some photos at this point then freewheeled back down the mountain to the car and drove back into Ovre Ardal. Back in the town I found a kebab take away but I could eat inside. I bought a kebab with chips and a beer, 115 NOK and 20 NOK. I drove back up the pass and carefully through the scary tunnels and parked up on the plateau for the night and kipped down in the passenger seat at 23.00. my intention was to seek out the top of the pass in the morning.
Thursday 7th August 2014 Day 21 Ovre Ardal to Borlaug (south of Ovre Ardal)
13808km to 14018km 7749km to 7959km 131 miles
It was warm again in the car through the night. The heat wave was continuing in Scandinavia and I thanked God for fantastic weather. It was brilliant sunshine, that woke me as good as any alarm clock but at the time couldn’t help thinking of vivid dreams. Why do I always dream of work days and many of them of many years ago. Is there significance to dreams. Am I a suppressed workaholic? I woke to see the mast on the hillside to the north of the road and scoured the map for the point where there’s a wide track going up there. There isn’t a road I discovered as I did some reconnaissance in the car to Tyinosen lake but couldn’t find a road or track off to the north, left off the road. The only one I could find was near some of the mountain houses so took to the track to reach the mast opposite Sletterust indicated for Store Knippen as a footpath. I didn’t reach the mast as the track became a stony footpath and wasn’t going to risk lugging the bike up there so this must remain a mystery. The BIG top is cruel if this is it! I took some photos of my effort on the way to the mast then rejoined the main road and the car and drove east for Tyinosen and on through Tyin and Tynkrysset to join the wider road from Aurland to Fagernes. Just before Tyinosen I spotted a café to the left, a simple wooden building. Inside though it was like the Tardis, so spacious. I used the loos and had a shower – but asked first this time. “No problem!” said the man in perfect English (as they all do, putting us Brits to shame) There’s soap and towels down there, take your time!” Wow! I was in temporary heaven! I came back later after a wonderful shower and shave and feeling like a new man (my wife wants one of them she warned if I don’t shower more often!) I sat down to coffee. “The flask is there”, he pointed, “help yourself” so I did – about four times. Now feeling mot only refreshed but totally awake and sparkling as if I’d been in a comfy hotel bed all night I sprang out of the café and drove on for my next BIG of the day but that was some distance away yet. Today I would go through Eltun, a nice village with a small stave church worth a short stop at then along the south shore of Vangsmiosi Lake to Ryfoss for the short cut over mountain roads through Oygarden and Melby to Skammestein to Beitostolen for BIG 20 Valdresflya. I was in for a long ride for a change and parked up at the ski resort on the left by some shops, there are many shops and cafes at this colourful and lively resort. I needed to eat as I didn’t take breakfast so had a pasta and coffee 145 NOK then had the energy for cycling the Valdresflya. For the first 3km there is a cyclepath on the right heading north from the resort and I followed some shapely runners. After that the road becomes steeper to reach the false top at the Bitihorn where there is a height marker then it’s down the other side passing an interesting public house at Bygdin where there’s a toll road off to the east following the north shore of a large lake towards Vinstra, then past a large Sami tent on the right complete with reindeer , for the tourists of course. Furs of all types were for sale. From that point it’s a long laborious drag to the top of the pass, against the wind that day. I bought a coke at the top 30 NOK and a small Norwegian flag for home. I asked the lady serving behind the hatch if she was a Sami. She replied saying, “No my name isn’t Sammy” I tried again and we had a conversation about her travels. She was here for several months then would go back to Thailand – oh what a mistake I made! – then return here again. She spoke good English so we talked for a while about our different travels. After the usual photos at the top it was an easy ride back to Beitostolen with the wind pushing me. I drove back via Skammasrtein and the mountain road over to Ryfoss then back to industry at Tyinkrysset but then heded west on the Aurland road but only as far as Borlo. I booked in at the youth hostel that I saw near the road junction, Borlaug Borlavy Turistheim, 420 NOK, a bargain compared to extortionate hotel prices and it was about time I had a bed for the night. I made the decision to attack the Osen-Eldrevatnet BIG 23 before the end of the day. It was 18.00 so knew I had sufficient time before the sun went down. I took 3 hours doing it, 2.1/4 hours up and ¾ of an hour down. The road was extremely busy with trucks and many double trucks. I hoped for safety on this road when I descended later. At first it’s steep then some longer stretches of bends to reach a hostel that’s on the right hand side of the road at Bergstolen. I remember that’s the only building I could see there. As I passed I was amazed to see a coach disgorging 40+ Japanese youth, where were they going? It wasn’t too difficult after that reaching the top. Ahead of me were some wind turbines far away then I reached the lake at Osen and the blue height marker plate on the right, one on the other side also, surprised to be at the road summit so soon. I took the photos of my achievement then did an about tail, put on my high visibility jacket and helmet then freewheeled back down. Every so often I could hear approaching me from behind the deep rumblings of the heavy lorries and prayed that they had seen me. I counted 23 heavy trucks on that descent and breathed a sigh of relief when I reached the bottom just as a double truck passed me, the biggest of the lot. Soon after I was back down to the youth hostel at 21.00. Once inside I ferreted around for food from my rucksack, re-arranged it and caught up with the diary, watched some Norwegian TV in the rest room then went to sleep at 23.30.
Friday 8th August 2014 Day 22 Borlaug (south of Ovre Ardal) to Aurland
14018km to 14103km 7959km to 8044km 53 miles
Breakfast was Spartan compared to hotel breakfasts but I ate enough, no doggy bags today! The warden and his wife were sitting at the next table so they made sure of that, besides there was a noticed with the food to say that anything taken away for lunch would cost 70 NOK. I had enough already in my rucksack to keep me going. I took my time this morning and left the hostel at 09.30 and drove west to Borgund Stavekirke along a minor road. There’s a large building housing the ticket office and a small museum of the history of the church which I casually glanced at as it’s all in Norwegian, all Greek to me. I wandered around the building to see the church itself without an entrance ticket. Of course I was unable to sneak in because there was a man checking tickets lying casually on the grass in front of the entrance gate sunning himself. There’s a walkway at the back of the church through trees so walked up there to take photos and back, some more near the entrance then back to the car waiting for me at the car park. From there I continued on the minor road along what’s described as the historic route following the river upstream. The road and river pass through gorges of white rock and meanders through eventually to join the main road after the small village of Galdane. From here I continued towards Laerdalsoyri and to the head of the fjord where there were a few ships in dock. I took a left here, away from the main road going through the tunnel to Fednes and the ferry across the longest fjord in the country that I’d explored yesterday. Today’s route was to head south. I parked the car 3km from Laerdalsoyri on a wide soil area by the fjord then unloaded the bike for today’s adventure. I biked a kilometre to begin the climb of Aurlandsvegan BIG 26. The first section through the wooded lower slopes of Erdalen is along a narrow road reminiscent of a Welsh valley however it wasn’t long before the road began to rise more abruptly and the Horndalen area is something else again. This area is much more open. The road sweeps around to gain height then the surroundings are rocky escarpments. I asked some other cyclists where the top was. I was misled a bit because I was told only 3km away but found out later that it was at least 7km. it’s fantastic scenery approaching the top, wherever it was. Here there were rock formations, waterfalls and lakes framed by the mountains behind, truly impressive. I found what I first thought was the top as in front of a waterfall was a car park and a large toilet block but when I saddled up again I could see the road ahead continued up so followed it. Eventually I came to a plateau but in the distance the road still rises. Chalked on the road are the words ‘peak’and ‘axis’ in a chalked circle the width of the road but I wasn’t convinced. I carried on for a further 3km and came to a 3 metre high mound of stones to the left of the road and ahead the road descends. This was the realistic road summit, having taken photos of the other areas too as at the time there was no certainty. If I had the equivalent of Garmin sat-nav device I could have entered the co-ordinates but all I had was my 1:250000 map as a guide. I had cycled 27km to reach this point at the 15.5km marker on the road near the mound. From the first point I reached by the waterfall to the mound the road is undulating and hard to define the road summit. It took me 4 hours to reach the top from 11.15 to 15.15 then one hour to descend. Once back at the car I loaded up the bike and retraced the way back up over the Aurlandsvegan and down the other side to Aurland. The view on the descent was breathtaking but couldn’t appreciate it fully driving even though I stopped at two viewpoints. A decision was reached to cycle back up the mountain from the Aurland side in the morning, the opportunity was too good to miss. I would enjoy the area at its best on the bike. I tried for accommodation at the main hotel in Aurland but it was full and was directed to the smaller hotel closer to the jetty. I enjoyed this, and the reindeer burger I had for my evening meal in the outside restaurant. The room and breakfast was 750 NOK and the meal 444 NOK and treated myself to a bottle of wine as I intended to sleep in the following morning and explore Aurland walking. Early to bed at 23.00 and slept solid in a comfy bed.
Saturday 9th August 2014 Day 23 Aurland to Bergen
14103km to 14308km 8044km to 8454km 128 miles
The car stayed put this morning. Breakfast was in a quaint sister building just along the road to the old hotel and a great service by staff dressed in national costume. I enjoyed a really good breakfast and plenty of doggy bag tit-bits for later. I wandered down to the jetty to take some photos after breakfast, an opportunity not to miss as the view along the Aurlandsfjorden was fantastic on a glorious warm sunny morning. The water was so blue and mountains so green! This view could well be on Norwegian tourist information brochures and websites I’m sure. I unloaded the bike and cycled the Aurlandsvegan from this direction, taking 3 hours about it. This way up to the top is far more scenic, glorious views of the fjord on the ascent for most of the way up to the second viewpoint. At this there is a walkway on to a platform raised high above the valley, supported by I don’t know what but had faith in the makers! At the end of the walkway is glass flooring where the valley and Aurland itself can be seen a long way down. For a person with vertigo this is a hell of an experience! On the walkway I chatted to a girl cyclist who offered to take my photo and I hers - “and oh, take one of me with my husband also, he’s over there!” He was frowning. I met them both again part way up and then again at the top but she was the talker. I continued up two kilometres from the viewpoint to the tree line where the road opens out into a wide expanse and I could see a mast off to the right that I had seen yesterday near the mound of stones. I could see now how far I had to go along to the bend to the right passing a flock of sheep who couldn’t care less lying in the middle of the road, then three hairpins to reach the top in windy conditions higher up. I stayed at the mound to take photos and chat to the two cyclists, well just the more communicative one, then freewheeled back down the mountain to Aurland, taking about an hour. Loading bike into car I left Aurland at 14.00, bought some diesel before the tunnel entrance then emerged near Flam and took a peek at the famous railway that runs from here south to Myrdal. Maybe one year I’ll get to experience it. For now my route was 5km through a tunnel north west then a 12km length of tunnel, the Gudvangatunnelen, to emerge at Gudvangen. The valley west from here is framed by huge cliffs either side with numerous waterfalls. Before the next tunnel after the road swings to the right there is a turning on to a minor road to the left indicated Stalheim, here was my next challenge. I thought to myself the road to the top of the BIG at Brekke is only 2km and surely this should be a walk-over. It may be short but I soon found out it was a relentless climb to the top, the steepness being just about manageable on my small front/large rear chainwheels. I proudly state I stayed on the bike the whole way up! There are two huge waterfalls either side of the road at every bend. The road itself is walled on either side and just as well. Thirteen hairpins later the top of the steepness of Stalheimskleiva BIG 25 is marked by a large obelisk on the left side of the road and took a look at that on the way down later. I carried on to the road junction, to the left is Hotel Stalheim and to the right the village of Brekke. I took the right turn to complete the BIG and this is along a gravel road for approx 500 metres between the group of interesting houses to end at a gate where it was possible to continue but on the gate is indicated that the way ahead is private. There was no need to go on further as I had reached the top. It took only 20 minutes to climb the Stalheimskleiva but it was 20 minutes of agony ah but after that the ecstasy of reaching the top! After Brekke I passed on along past the road junction to take a look at Hotel Stalheim. There was a wedding party reception just arriving and was interesting to see men and women in national costumes. After photos I was back at the car after 1.1/2 hours at 16.15. As soon as I arrived back at the car the heavens opened. I could see before that the sky was getting heavy but I’d no sooner closed the door to drive off when torrential rain started. I could see I was being looked after! I passed through Voss at 17.00 not really seeing it in the heavy downpour. The only relief was when I drove into a tunnel that passes under the town for continuing west heading for Indra Arna just before Bergen. I passed through Dale where the best name for Norwegian woollen garments has its manufacturing complex. The rain had stopped on the approach to Bergen but I wanted to bypass the centre of the city and look for the Norske Vandrerhjem youth hostel at Landas just to the eastern edge. I found it after some difficulty after backtracking along the road between Ulsmag and Espeland. I didn’t want to pass the automatic toll as I thought once I passed that I was entering the city but after asking at a garage for directions that was the way to go. I was amazed, calling in at the garage not only did the assistant speak good English and gave first class directions but he also lives in Landas and could describe every turning to reach the hostel. Armed with his sketch map I found the hostel very quickly. Not only that when I booked at the hostel reception there was only one bed still available. I paid 365 NOK (£36) and had a pizza there (40 NOK) and a light beer (21 NOK). Later I phoned Ruth and went for a short walk down the hill towards the city but it was too far away so trudged back up, besides it was too late in the day. Near to the hostel, to the left is a cul de sac with apartments on the hillside that overlook the city. I found a gap to the right and wandered in front of them on to an open area where I could see the lights of the city down below, not so far away so could see the city centre and the bridges over the fjord and the harbour beyond. I phoned Ruth from this point then went back to the shared dormitory. I shared with a Chinese from Beijing who was asking me about my travels and I asked him about Beijing. Later I thought with three others in the room better to put in earplugs but I slept just fine.
Sunday 10th August 2014 Day 24 Bergen (rest day)
14308km
It was supposed to be a rest day today but I must have walked 20km over the course of the day. I hired a mountain bike to explore, especially Ulriken mountain but there was a fault with the gearing so handed it back. It didn’t cost anything as the hostel hires them out free. It was just as well as I couldn’t have cycled the mountain. From Montana hostel I walked Ulriken Mountain 643 metres, starting from the path directly ahead of the hostel , a wide gravel path through trees but it becomes progressively narrower, steeper and rocky as it traverses the shoulder of the mountain to the right of the mast then it would mean walking the ridge to the mast. I was walking in sandals, a huge mistake but the only other footwear I had was cycling shoes and can’t walk in them. I had to give up on this track and returned to the junction of tracks further down and attempted it again on a more direct route with the TV mast directly ahead. This way was steeper, also rocky but it was more manageable, especially higher up where there’s a metal handrail. The first track involved careful walking through marshy areas among the rocks but the second route, although wet lower down it was easier to keep to the rocks. Physiologically having the mast directly ahead on the second attempt was a great incentive. I clambered the final section hanging on to the metal rail then walked the steep stone steps to the mast. Once there I took photos and enjoyed the view. Bergen has a national anthem called Udsigt fra Ulriken – View from Ulriken, and I could see why . There were many people up there and also many wanting to take the cablecar back down to Bergen but it was closed due to heavy winds. People power saved the day though and a cablecar came up to collect us. I paid 90 NOK for the one way ticket because I didn’t want to risk walking down over the wet and steep section of rocks. Was it really safer though as it was very windy? I shared a cabin with a family, the man was fine, his two children enjoying the thrill but his wife was sitting on the floor of the cabin in hysterics. I was taking photos ahead through the window and the cablecar was swaying in the wind. Soon though the swaying became more pronounced and as it approached the second stanchion I could see that it would hit the side rails. It wasn’t a serious collision but it was enough to make the woman scream and she was now writhing on the floor not daring to look out and while this was happening the rest of the family stayed calm. After this though the cablecar stopped so that the pendulum effect in the wind would subside, and it did. We arrived down safely and soon after the lady lit a cigarette nervously. From here I walked to the city via the university area and eventually to the main road into the city centre, a distance of 5km that would have been only 3km if I’d taken a right turn from the cablecar exit instead of a left turn leading to the university area. The route I took walking the city was first of all the cathedral then Lille Overgaten quaint buildings, Ovre Gatten, Bryggen and the colourful houses and shops on the waterfront, MacDonalds (cheap meal! - relatively), Torget, the cruise ship docks where there were many people arriving, the Leif Larsen memorial at the quayside, St John’s Church, Lille Lungeardvann fountain and lake then back to the hostel directly along the main road then left and up past the cablecar exit and the steep path up to Montana hostel. That evening I had a pizza 80 NOK and relaxed after sending texts and a long shower followed by an early night.
Monday 11th August 2014 Day 25 Bergen to Roldal
14308km to 14678km 8454km to 8824km 231 miles
After taking my time over breakfast and squeezing through the crowded room to grab food I loaded up the car neatly with everything now sorted into logical order. I was away from the hostel at 09.00 and drove back through Idra Arna to Voss for Ulvik as recommended by Heiko. Unloaded the bike and explored the quiet Osafjorden to Osa (11.30 to 13.00) but should have continued on from here up to the mountain road east of Osa. It was so quiet, no cars. The only noise came from a barking dog, perhaps I disturbed his slumber. I felt really alone so back to civilisation at Ulrik and took a look at the church then drove on for Eidfjord to cycle the Hardangervidda BIG 27. I crossed the Hardangarbrukke after an interesting road junction within the tunnel. It was raining a little but I wasn’t going to let it spoil my ride – but it did later! Before I reached the top the rain was pelting down. I parked the car at a large brick red visitor centre on a side road to the right, a large car park there and this was at Ovre Eidfjord to avoid the tunnel from Eidfjord. There were still more tunnels but avoidable by using the old road that’s now reserved for cyclists and walkers however smaller vehicles can use it. I came along to a parking area higher up where there’s a path through the woods leading down to the base of the large waterfall Voringfossen, but it was too dangerous to walk it in cycle shoes so turned back. I hoped I could see the waterfall from the top of the drop further along the road – I did later and took some photos. Part of the old road was closed on the way to the waterfall due to a landslide but I risked it and carried the bike over the metal mesh barrier then walked the rocks at the landslide section. This was far safer than cycling through a tunnel along the main road, besides it’s illegal. There are four tunnels along the main road and it was good that there was an alternative route. The old road becomes more barren after Maurset – and then the rain came! I reached the yellow/beige colour public house at the right of the road where this marked the road summit but it wasn’t possible to take photos in the driving rain and I was getting cold! I put on every available piece of clothing I carried and made off back down the mountain before my body really complained. I returned to the car at 18.45, four hours after I started. The climb was difficult in bad weather conditions but this was the only pass I climbed where the weather was so miserable. With bad visibility I was glad of the 2 metre high roadside posts most of the way down that kept me on the straight and narrow. These are for when the road is snow-blocked but equally useful in bad visibility. Back to the car and so glad to be back I changed clothes as quickly as possible and dried myself, no more cycling today. I bought some food in Eidfjord (62.80 NOK :cheese crisps 23.00 NOK, 2 light beers 19.90 NOK x 2). It was sunny here at the bottom of the mountain! I drove south from here to Odda at the base of Sorfjorden passing Hardangarbrukke then along the east shore of the fjord. There are some waterfalls along here. At Odda I filled up with diesel again, put in 400 NOK and bought a sausage while sheltering from rain that started again. I could see the edge of the huge glacier to the west of the road and also soon came to the impressive double waterfall of Latefoss south of Hildal worth a photo stop. I drove on for Roldal in search of somewhere to stay the night. A campsite there could offer me a simple chalet accommodation for 600 NOK so went to take a look at it just up the road between the campsite and the main road but I wasn’t happy with it. It was untidy and dismal so returned the key to the reception but I did have a meal there; pizza and a light beer. I was just as comfortable in the car and parked next to Roldal stave church and slept at 22.00
Tuesday 12th August 2014 Day 26 Roldal to Hylland (Amot)
14678km to 15106km 8824km to 9252km 268 miles
Roldal stave church isn’t up to much, it’s quite small in comparison to say Borgund but it does have a good free car park to stay the night, and well away from the main road as Roldal is in a valley beneath it. Apparently there are 28 stave churches in Norway and I’ve seen some interesting ones. There’s was nobody about at the campsite reception just along the road at 07.00 so I helped myself to the shower facilities and had a shave then moved on to a building I’d seen yesterday evening . I called in there last night to check for a room but there was no-one there. There wasn’t now, so I left the car there and unloaded the bike for its next plod up a mountain. This is the Dyrskar BIG 29 and for once the weather was dry but it was still overcast. The building advertised ‘overnatting’, I think I know what that means but I didn’t want to sleep with gnats so slept in the car last night instead. My next pass of endurance took me from 08.00 until 10.30 then an hour back down with photos on the way. It’s a gentle rise for 4km, passing a petrol station and levelling off a little at Viddelen then the climb really begins. It was dry weather most of the way up although a great deal of rain was forecast later – asked at the campsite last night. I took a right turn on the old road to avoid a tunnel – three tunnels in all on the way to the top of Dyrskar then after emerging from the old road there are two hairpins followed by a long curving stretch to the right. Just before the second tunnel I took the old road on the right and was soon overtaken by a convoy of traffic headed by a road maintenance vehicle with red flag leading the way to the other side of the tunnel on the old road as the tunnel was closed for maintenance. I let the convoy pass then made my way back to the main road at the other side of the closed tunnel. I could see the final stretch of road in front now and the final tunnel where the old road would veer off to the right again and at the side of a lake the top of the Dyrskar would be reached. It started raining now but wasn’t too bad. I re-joined the traffic and got more wet by passing lorries spraying than from the rain itself so was glad to reach the tunnel and take to the old road away from the traffic. After a sharp rise away from the main road then a left bend 2km further I could see the lake that marks the top. I took a couple of photos then did an about turn after donning helmet and rainwear and raced off back down the mountain hoping to avoid worsening weather conditions – I didn’t. I got soaked! Back at the ‘overnatting ‘ I checked the building. There was no-one there. I called out, no answer. Something wonderful – there were keys in all the doors! I could have slept free in one of these rooms last night! They weren’t only just rooms but apartments complete with sofas and armchairs and large flat screen TV’s. I risked it, I was cold and desperate. I took a key and locked myself in and enjoyed a long hot shower with sprays from the walls that hit all over the body, oh it was so wonderful! After half an hour of luxury I cleaned up the bathroom thoroughly and put on fresh clothing. The only evidence I had been was a wet towel that I left on the floor for the maid(?) to change, then put the key back in the lock and run the gauntlet to the front door and out, relieved in more ways than one. Into the car and away, back over the Dyrskar and south through Hovden and Brokke. This is unusual countryside of wide open spaces and heather, gorse and small trees, probably a very windswept area. I took a right, heading west and past Brokke. There were roadworks here, in fact the road was churned up for a few miles with heavy lorries taking rocks to deposit in another area. Past this the road was interesting, very scenic as it switchbacks over hillsides and past a huge stone faced dam wall to the right containing the Rosskrepp now a reservoir. Further on the Flogdalen valley is wild and open spaces everywhere. The road climbs a little to reach a rocky plateau. I noticed a road sign pointing to Lysebotn and approx 3km later after a final rise bordered by rocky outcrops the top is reached, marked by the Scandinavian way of placing stones on stones to form numerous little troll statues across the landscape. I left the car at the road summit marker board. It’s now completely obliterated by stickers from all sorts of clubs and societies and many totally irrelevant stickers. I unloaded the bike and freewheeled down the hairpins to just before Lysebotn at Lyse then made my way back up again. The climb back up the 27 hairpins (I think?) took me two hours. The way up at first is green but soon changes to a narrow rocky passageway as the road threads to the top of the mountain. Somehow it was an anti-climax doing it this way as I knew what to expect at the top. From there at 15.00 I loaded the bike back into the car and returned to Brokke then a bit faster along the road north to Rotemo and took route 45 for Dalen. There are long straight sections of road heading for Dalen so got some speed up to reach Dalen and hopefully find accommodation there. Down steeply and into Dalen where there was only one hotel and a B&B both at extortionate prices. The B@B was 990 NOK and the hotel an astronomical 1600 NOK (£160) for the night. It didn’t look like my price range anyway as there were vintage cars lining the approach to the hotel’s huge entrance and marble steps. The receptionist told me she could offer me the executive suite at the same price but I politely refused, not in my price budget. It looks like I’m sleeping in the car again. I continued on slightly north to Amot and looked for accommodation there but there was none. There was a large supermarket just closing at 22.00 but didn’t need anything. I checked the map for the continuation north heading for the final BIG for tomorrows adventure. I soon found it and after 2km slightly uphill among the trees in Hylland came across a campsite on the left so drove in along the grassy track. There was only one light on so asked if there was accommodation to be told that they were visitors too. They suggested I take an empty chalet and pay the owner when he comes round collecting the money at 08.00 in the morning, 330 NOK. I took a look inside the only empty chalet among the trees, there was a key in the door. It was similar to the chalet in Roldal last night, Spartan but OK if you don’t have a comfortable car to sleep in! It was obvious what my choice was. I parked up at a quiet grassy area among the trees and told myself to be away from here before 08.00 in the morning. I used the shower etc then ferreted around in my rucksack for previous hotel or supermarket food and slept at 23.00.
Wednesday 13th August 2014 Day 27 Hylland (Amot) to Oslo
15106km to 15378km 9252km to 9524km 170 miles
I showered and shaved at 06.30 and left the campsite 07.15 before the owner came round to check on his chalet accommodations, after all I wasn’t camping. All I had used was the washing facilities and cleaned up after me. I was out on the road at 07.15 in search of breakfast. Near Brattas on route 37 I came across Skinnarbu Hoyfjellshotell Mountain Lodge, Hardangavidda Nasjonalparksenter off to the right and up a track to the large hotel. I asked at reception if I could take breakfast and paid 105 NOK (£11). For that I had plenty and could help myself to the buffet. I was there for a while. 08.00 to 09.30 and enjoyed plenty of cereal, fruit, bread, cheese and meat and so did the car as the doggy bags went in the back of my cycling vest, and came back for more. I had another shower and was then ready for the road and the grand finale cycle climb later. I approached Rjukan from a height as the town is in a deep valley, Vestfjorddalen. I noticed a large power plant to the right on the way down at the head of the valley. I soon found out when I called in at the tourist information office that this was the area of heroic allied sabotage against Nazi Germany in 1941. The Germans were attempting to build an atomic bomb that would turn the course of the war to their favour and this area is where the hard water was available to manufacture this. Perhaps this is the very powered plant that was sabotaged. I made a note of articles to look up when I return home about this part of the war. There’s a film called ‘The Heroes of Telemark’ and I must look out for it. (I found the film going cheap in Llandudno, Wales a month later!) There is also a book about the area’s happenings in the war by Knut Haukelid, ‘Ski’s Against the Atom’. The foot of the BIG is 3km east of the town along the valley at Dale. Parking is opposite an electric power plant and on the right hand side of the road. The car park is right at the junction then immediately left. On the other side of the right turn, the beginning of the road to Gaustatoppen is a small white church. It took me 2.¼ hours (10.45 to 13.00) to cycle the 15km to Gaustatoppen BIG 28, however the road summit itself has a different name. it’s called Flistjonnskaret (1260 metres) as Gaustatoppen is the name of the mountain. From the top of the mountain on a clear day, today wasn’t as there was a cloud hanging the view, it’s possible to see one sixth of the whole of Norway. After the five hairpins up through the lower wooded section the road opens out and the Gaustatoppen mountain looms overhead to the right, following that is a gentler section then the final onslaught to the top. Ahead is a classic pass framed by two slopes coming down to the road so here was the top at the stone height marker on the right. I arrived back at the car at 14.00, so much to see and photos to take. For once I had really good weather. I was glad of that for the final climb, have to go out on a high. Back to the car and I drove back to the top, parking at the wooden hut on the left of the road north of the road summit then freewheeled down the other side but only as far as Tuddal then cycled the other side of the climb arriving back at the stone marker at 17.30. At Tuddal is an outdoor museum of reconstructed houses once found in ancient mountain villages. I had to get a move on now as I wanted to see the stave church at Heddal and had ½ an hour there but not willing to pay 90 NOK to go inside, there’s all to see from the outside, I can see inside from the doorway! Typical cheapskate English attitude! Later on drove on through Kongsberg and Dramman to the western suburbs of Oslo along very busy roads the closer I approached Oslo. I easily found the Oslo Holtekilen youth hostel in Stabekk, just as well as it was getting late but there was a bed available. I could only book for one night as the following night there were no vacancies. I was given a free pasta by the warden, he even brought it up to my room. I had a room with a view all to myself, even a TV in the room. I texted Ruth and also Yomar to see if he was available to see him in Oslo tomorrow but no reply received. I finally went to bed at 01.00.
Thursday 14th August 2014 Day 28 Oslo
15378km
Having finished cycling now I was in no rush this morning and lay in until 09.00. It’s a popular time for breakfast as there were so many people in there, jostling about to grab food and drink, couldn’t move. It brings a whole new meaning to orange squash. I wasn’t too hungry though even though I had no meal yesterday evening. I unloaded the bike out of the car for its final trip, 9km to the centre of Oslo following the marked bike lane route into the city. At first the route passes along side streets and a business centre then down to the waterfront for the final 6km into the centre. On the way the route passes yacht harbours and the docking area for the Color Line Oslo to Kiel ferry. There was a car ferry in dock with its mouth wide open receiving cars making their way into the ship. Soon after that I arrived at the pleasure ferry area under the Akershus Arsenal. I biked up to the castle area and took a look inside the WW2 Resistance Museum (Norges Hjemmefrontmuseum) and history of the Oslo fortress. It was also interesting to see inside the castle grounds and surprised that not only was it free entry but I could wander around in there with the bike. I locked it up after a while to take a look inside. From the ramparts later I could see across the city. Later I made my way to the old part of the town and locking the bike outside took a look inside the larger Armed Forces Museum, or Forsvarsmuseet and the Cold War museum that described it from the Norwegian, American and Russian viewpoints. From there I cycled along to the cathedral and the main pedestrian area and followed this up the short hill to the Royal Palace (Det Kongelige Slott) . There was a heavy downpour when I reached the top of the rise so sheltered under trees to put on my cycle jacket and trousers. At first I chose the cover of a building nearby to do this and didn’t notice the sentry that I had passed. He came up to me and demanded I move. I asked him what was in there but all he said was, “I cannot say”. Crown jewels? I rode back down the rise shortly after the rain subsided and was going to explore further but then I noticed that my rear tyre was going flat. It serves me right trying to break into the Royal Palace, judgement on me. I cut the trip short and started walking back with the bike but 9km is a fair distance to walk so mounted the bike staying off the saddle. For much of the way it stayed soft and didn’t go right down but had to walk the final section to protect damaging the wheel itself. I didn’t want to get back to the hostel too late as I needed to drive on to the next youth hostel, Oslo Vandrerhjem Haraldsheim, on the other side of the city and arrive in good time to buy a meal later. I became confused on the way back with the cycleway, taking a wrong turning somewhere but was only 3km from the hostel. I asked for directions and was told to go over a nearby footbridge over the main road then down the other side I would come to the hostel, sure enough there it was. I drove on at 17.00 and again became confused with directions. I was heading too far east when I should have gone north. I asked in a café opposite a garage and got a debate going around a drinking party in there, each one was giving me different ways to arrive to where I needed to be and was more confused than ever. Eventually I grasped the route and thanked them. It was easy enough though armed with a rough sketch map given to me, Just to confirm I asked again at another garage at a crossroads as there’s so many roads and busy too. I booked in at 19.00 and had pre-booked a room from the other hostel last night. I had a room to myself on the ground floor again with a TV and comfy bed so was as good as a hotel but at half the price. I wandered out later to see if there was a restaurant nearby but all I could find was a Thai restaurant and a MacDonalds. I wandered back as there was a kebab take- away with some seating nearer to the hostel. Later I sorted out the rucksack and put in the smaller rucksack what I would need for the journey home tomorrow.
Friday 15th August 2014 Day 29 Oslo
15378km to 15464km 9524km to 9610km 54 miles
It’s that dream thing again, it must have been a good sleep . I must look on the internet meanings of dreams and what my subconscious is trying to tell me! In my dream I was crying after killing unreal people who were easy to bump off because they kept coming towards me defenceless. It started with a girl that everyone knew, a face familiar to all. – weird! It was still fairly warm weather and I had been fortunate for mainly dry warm weather all holiday. It was 18 degrees centigrade at 10.00. I didn’t want much for breakfast, probably because the kebab was so good last night 9and maybe that was part of the problem in dreaming). I think I need to go home. I took some time dismantling the bike at the hostel and placing it in the bike bag. Afterwards there was plenty of time to lounge around for the morning. I left for the airport at 11.45 and immediately went wrong with the direction. I found myself heading north on the E6 road and asked at another garage for directions. I had to go over a flyover and go back on the same road and head south following signs for Goteberg and Stockholm. I followed the E6 to Moss and took a break a short while before it and wander around an out of town shopping mall, mainly clothes so no interest there but enjoyed a short walk. I filled up with the regulatory fuel just before returning the car at Rygge airport. They checked the car and a scratch was found on the front bumper, hopefully claim back off the full waiver insurance. Final kilometre distance at Rygge Airport 15464. Total distance driven: 9813km. (6133 miles) Co2 emission 1011 kgs. Distance cycled 485 miles