Burgundy and Rhône Alps, April 2018
Saturday 14th April Holmes Chapel to Macon
All packed and ready to go with the bike in its flight bag and a rucksack as hand luggage and took the train for the 20 minute trip to the airport with plenty of spare time, booked the bike in and boarded the EasyJet flight from Manchester at 16.15 direct to Lyon, flight arrival at 19.15. I walked around the airport terminal to the car rental shuttle service pick up to arrive at Interrent car hire at 20.30. The Interrent agent had gone home. There was one person manning the desk for Europcar who wasn’t too concerned about my particulars or on checking the car out. He didn’t block my credit card or inspect the car so I made sure there was nothing wrong with the Ford Fiesta I was allocated. This wasn’t too easy though because there was no street light where the car was parked. I checked it well, bundled the bagged bike into the boot then drove away at 20.45 heading for Macon, 93 km (58 miles) away, taking 2 hours. At 23.00 on the southern suburbs of the town I parked up in a quiet industrial area and slept in the reclined passenger seat with a blindfold and ear plugs. Drive Lyon Airport to Macon 93km (58 miles)
Sunday 15th April Macon to Château Chinon
A short drive into Macon Centre and found a parking spot by the side of the river close to the town centre. I took a walk around Macon 08.00 – 9.30, quiet streets on Sunday morning. Finding a cafe open had coffee and breakfast then drove from Macon to Chalon Saone 48km (30 miles) 1 hour 09.30 – 10.30. From here I followed the small signs for Chagny that took me on back streets through Chalon realising I was on a bike route. I emerged on the main road for Paris north of the town then spotted the signs for Santenay that would lead me through to the beginning of my first climb from Dezize les Maranges ‘Duzize lu Moronge’ 24km (15 miles) Mont de Sene BIG 228 505m 6km 1.5 hours 11.00 – 12.30. As I drove from the airport yesterday and landed in the evening it was time now to assemble the bike from its flight bag on arrival in Dezize and also get changed into my cycling gear. I parked up by the caveau Domaine Jean Louis Bachalet and asked if I could use their building to change clothes. From there I cycled the narrow street through the village and down the steep hill to the junction of the road to Sampigny then started the first climb, taking a left turn in the village indicated for the three crosses – Trois Croix. From here it’s a gentle ride up to the hill above the woods off to the right. On reaching the end of the road at a wide gravel car parking area I passed a bollard of boulders then cycled the gravel path to the top where the level ridge has the three stone crosses along its length. Before the crosses there’s a pictorial orientation semi circle with the horizon’s landscape indicated. After some photos taken around the crosses I returned back down the gentle rise to Dezize.
Driving from Dezize I took the road for Nolay and Autun then on the Chateau Chinon road took the right turn at Polroy for St Leger and parked up at a verge just north of the village for my second climb. Drive 55km (35 miles) to St Leger 12.30 – 14.00.
Mont Beuvray BIG 227 821m 16km (10 miles) 14.30 to 17.30. From St Leger’s village triangle the ride is along a pleasant quiet minor road gently uphill through woods until reaching Bibracte La Croix du Rebout where there’s the archaeological museum. The way forward is off to the left from here where the road RD274 begins to rise steeply through the dense woods. Soon passing through the rampart that’s either side of the road then La Côme Chaudron metal workshops bordering the road. These had been excavated and refilled to ensure preservation. Further up are Roman excavations, a Franciscan monastery and in an arewa called LeTheurot de la Roche are the remains of more Roman structures. At the summit, La Chaume 809 metres, is the monument to the memory of Jacques Bulliot who led the excavation work in the late 19th century. From here the view looks south east over the Arroux Valley and I could make out the Alps some 250km away so it was worth cycling up here today! The way back down the hill is different as it’s a one way road system so had to take left just below the summit that led past La Porte de la Terrasse on a longer road passing through dense woods and returned to the main road a short distance to the east and back on the same road 6km back to St Leger.
Driving St Leger then D27 road through Forét de la Gravelle to emerge in Château Chinon from the south 35km (22 miles) 17.30 – 18.30 to Château Chinon Hotel Restaurant Du Lion D’Or £33.Before I could have access to the room though the proprieter insisted on a game of ping-pong for half an hour. Apparently this was obligatory as the following guests had to go through the same ritual. When he found out that I lived near Manchester he asked which team I supported. I replied that I had enough on my plate supporting myself. Had a meal in a Moroccan kebab restaurant on the main street in the evening. Total drive: 162km (101 miles) 9.0 hours
Monday 16thApril Château Chinon to La Puley
I was the only one down for breakfast which was a simple affair but filled me up. Driving Château Chinon to Marolles 55km (35 miles) 09.30 – 10.30 then ready for the next climb.
Butte de Montenoisen BIG 226 414m from Marolles and over to Marsiges and return 14km (9 miles) 2 hours 10.30 – 12.30. From Marolles the way forward is just a gentle incline for two kilometres to Aubigny along a narrow road with a grassy central rut. Once at the road junction and a left turn the road begins to rise a little but no real steepness until just before Montenoisen village and another left turn. Once in the village the final kilometre to the church and crucifix at the top is seriously steep. The final section around a right hand bend passes through an avenue of birch trees and past a gravelled car park. At this point I was 180km from Paris. Looking at a large map it seems that Montenoison west of the Morven national park is at the geographical centre of France. I continued over on the short steep section of open road to Marciges and return then back down to the car at Marolles.
Driving back from here to Château Chinon through St Saulge and first fill of petrol at Chatillon-en-Bazois 35€. 40 km (25 miles) 12.30 – 14.00. Through Château Chinon 55km (35 miles) over Mont Beavray to Mesvres 60km (38 miles) 14.00 – 15.15 for the next climb. Signal d’Uchon BIG 229 678m 8km, further 10km (10 miles) to La Tagniere and return 2 hours 15.30 – 18.30. The climb begins in the village just south of a rail level crossing where there’s a free gravelled car park on the right at the road junction for la Chapelle. The way is almost level for a while as it follows a river, the road passes over two river bridges in quick succession then rises after two kilometres on the approach to la Chapelle. At la Chapelle I took a look at the church then back to the road junction for the left turn at an acute angle from where I came up from Mesvres. There’s a sharp rise here as the road enters the tree-line and for the next few kilometres it was a shade of trees for company then out into the open where I could see a range of hills ahead but unsure at this stage where i was heading. The road, of course, goes for the lowest point along the ridge, the way up was in a clearing now and came to the blue plate of Col de la Croix de Messire Jean 676m just past a restaurant and bar on the left. I asked a couple the way to the summit and was guided along the road to the right just before the blue height plate. A coach was parked and had disgorged its people load at the orientation semi circle pictorial map. This was good enough. Just along here are the rocks along the short grass where people were lounging, taking in the view. I took some photos then wandered to the orientation platform then back to the road. From here i freewheeled down the other side to la Tagniere. The road is in woods much of the way. No stopping, I turned back and over the top and back down to the car.
Driving 40km (25 miles) 1 hour 19.30 to La Puley via Marmagne, St Laurant, Monsanin and country road along to La Puley. I was met in the village by an elderly gent, gardening who led me to the owner, a lady who spoke good English who directed me to the room at. There was no where to eat in the village. The nearest place was further south in Germagny. I sat and had a beer waiting for the restaurant to open but the prices were a bit steep. I declined and continued on down the road and found a supermarket in Buxy. I bought a selection of cheeses, crackers, wine and yogurt 19.40€ just before the shop closed at 20.00, drove back to the guest house and put the table by the window and had a meal and a bottle of wine with a view of landscape and farm animals. A meal far cheaper than the restaurant and a good view too. An early night for once.
Total drive: 245 km (155 miles) 10 hrs
Tuesday 17th April La Puley to l’Hopital Rochefort
Breakfast was a lonely affair but I could help myself to anything I wanted so had bio-muesli, yogurt, coffee and cake. Another sunny day ahead – no rain seen all holiday. Driving 37km (24 miles) to Ruere via Joncy and St Bonnet. On the way i noticed on the map an interesting circuit from Joncy up to Mont St Vincent. This was 17km (11 miles) and worth an hour’s exploration 09.00 – 10.00
Butte de Suin BIG 230 593m 9 km (6 miles) over to Tillay and return.10.30 - 12.00. I parked up at Ruere on a grass verge by a farmstead at the foot of the climb as the way here from St Bonnet is up and down but no significant rise, however at Ruere the rise begins. I cycle to a road junction after a sharp rise then take a right turn indicated for Suin and a gradient indicator for the rise ahead. Most of the way is up through woods. The final section on approach to the village after lonely country is fairly steep. There’s a cafe and public toilets – don’t think much of the crouch down type in the gents though! Behind the church there’s a Madonna statue perched on the rocks. Behind that is an observation tower with the orientation circle around the inside of the round squat tower. This is reached from some steep stone steps. A saying proclaims that "from Suin high perched, we see fifty two bell towers". When conditions allow, it is even possible to look east to see the Mont-Blanc massif emerge. An orientation table, erected in 1963, restored in 2008 by the municipality and co-financed by the State and the General Council of Saone-et-Loire, allows to read the panorama. From here I took the road down to Tillay, and returned to the car through the woods on a circuit through Chalantigny and Availly back to Ruere. Loading up the car I chatted as best as i could to a local farmer – mainly in sign language! Not concentrating I discovered too late, sometime later, that I had dropped one of my speedo’s on the road. Fortunately I still had my precious altitude computer.
From here it was on to the next climb driving 70km (44 miles) through Charolles and la Clayette to Lamure sur Azergues (12.00 – 13.30). I parked at la Clayette to admire the views of the huge château with its moat and took several photos. South of here the road forks and I had to be certain to follow the left fork for Chauffailles and on to Lamure. However at this point I overshot and retraced 2km for the indication for St Nizier for the next climb, but first I bought sandwiches and water from a shop in the small town. I parked up at the foot of the climb below St Nizier and bundled out the bike for the second climb of the day.
Col de Favardy BIG 231 862m 18km (11 miles) 2 hours 13.30 – 15.00 From the start the climb is fairly steep. The way passes through St Nizier and it’s narrow street past the church. The road continues on fairly steep but easier later approaching the road junction where the road continues for St Bonnet or to the right for Col de Favardy. It’s a short rise from the junction to the left to look down into the valley and St Bonnet nestled in the hollow. Back to the junction and I continued 3km to the col in the woods. There’s a blue plate marker at the top. After a couple of photos I made my way back down again the same way to the car. From here I drive 80km (50 miles) to St Just en Chevalet via Lamure, Amplepuis and Roanne. I had some confusion in Roanne finding the correct road and had to ask a couple of times – at a garage first then parked up in an unauthorised stop before a police car and asked the gendarme standing there. I was surprised that I was almost there – take a left at the rotunda ahead they said. From here it was direct – and I mean direct – on a dead straight road to Villemontais where the road climbs, over and down to St Just-en-Chevalet. 15.00 – 17.00. I parked up just west of the village for the final climb of the day.
Col de St Thomas BIG 242. 938m 9km and return 2 hours. 17.00 – 19.00. Starting from St Just-en-Chevalet it’s a climb up but then a 2km descent to la Bombarde – so could see know why the eastern side of the climb in the BIG starts from that point! It’s only 4.5km but the gradient is consistent to the col. On the way are kilometre markers for cyclists that indicate the next gradient, height at the current altitude and height at the top of the road – that’s helpful. The blue plate at the top stands alone, there’s no cafe up there. About turn and back down to the car. From here I drove back over the col and emerged at the main road, turning right at Chabreloche for the St Etienne road. And on to l’Hopital Rochefort for the night’s accommodation at Chez Hélène et Patrick Saget. This is in a small village just to the right of the main road. It was particularly pleasant as there were a couple also staying there who were very friendly even though very little English could be spoken. The proprietors brought out there two boys to practise their school English! The meal was local meat, chesses and plenty of red wine. I slept well that night! 42km (26 miles) 19.00 – 20.00 Total drive: 229km (140 miles) 10.5 hrs
Wednesday 18th April l’Hopital Rochefort to Montbrison
From l’Hopital Rochefort at 09.30 after a good breakfast, a sort out of the car then a short drive 8km (5miles) to Leigneuz.
Col du Beal BIG 248 1390m 28km (17 miles) return 56km (35 miles) 4 hours 10.00 – 14.00. a long ride this time along a gradual ascent on a good road surface. Chalmazel along the way is a point of interest. From above the town I could see a château on the approach. There is a downhill to the small town and across the upper valley, the string of buildings, then the large château. There was a street market of fruit, cheese etc taking place when I passed. From here the country turns barren and reaching the top where its very open there’s a cafe so went in fror a celebratory Pelforth beer and relax for a while. Photos taken of the old stone cross and crucifix at the top and asked a passer-by to take photos of me. From here back down to the car.
Driving on 18km (12 miles) to Montbrison 14.30 and a turn for the next climb. I parked just above the town at the end of the built up area
Col de Baracuchet BIG 249 1230m 19km (12 miles) 14.30 – 19.00 Reaching the top at 16.30 after a gradual ascent through wooded landscape and past workers felling trees I stopped at the height plate and took photos then through farm land down to St Antheme where i bouight some water at a shop at 17.00 just before closing.
From here up to Col de la Croix de l‘Homme Mort BIG 250 1163m 18km (12 miles) at 17.30 then return. I returned back up and over Col de Baracuchet 37km (23 miles). 19.00 then drove 5km to look for my accommodation in Montbrison. I needed to find the hospital then the road I needed was nearby. I asked some youth at a cafe who directed me. It made a girl look impressive to her friends as she directed me in good English. The accommodation, Chambre d’Hôtes des Lys was very good and glad that I chose this for two nights. It was run by a young couple who spoke English well. In the evening I went down to the town on the bike and found a good place to eat after searching. I had steak and chips at a good price. I cycled in the dark back up the hill later and relaxed after 22.00. Total drive: 31km (20 miles) 10 hours
Thursday 19th April Montbrison – Chaise Dieu – Riotard – St Etienne - Montbrison
Driving Montbrison to Arlanc 62km (39 miles) over Col de la Croix de l‘Homme Mort through St Antheme and Ambert along a dead straight road south to Arlanc 08.00 – 09.30 for 17km ride to BIG 251 Chaise Dieu 1084m, 17km return 09.45 – 12.00. It’s a gradual ascent at first on this busy road. It’s a good smooth road in open country and even though there was a lot of traffic there were good views across the countryside. Near the top there is a dip where there’s a small lake and small hotel on the other side then up again to the small town, Chaise Dieu. I continued on to the point where the private narrow gauge railway crosses the road approx 1.5km after the town. Close by here is the top of the climb. I took a photo then down to the town and some photos of the buildings surrounding the church and of the church itself. I returned back down to the car and a long sweep downhill. I returned back driving and took a look inside the church, parking on the main road behind it. From there I drove on via Craponne, Retournac, Yssingeaux and Montfaucon to Riotord south of St Etienne 89km (55 miles) 12.00 – 14.00. There was nothing open – shops here closed at 14.00. I parked in the main square the south of the main road and assembled the bike
Col de Charousse BIG 254 1238m 12km (8 miles), return 24 km (15 miles) took me 70 minutes to reach the top then over the other side down Vanosc and return 14,00 – 17.00. Most of the way up the higher reaches on both sides is under birch tree shade. The top is indicated with a blue height plate. The lower slopes, where the road is steeper, meander through open farmland. The whole area is very rural and quiet. At le Setoux the road divides where the left fork continues up to the col. At the church here is a useful water fountain. Return to Montbrison 76km (47 miles) 17.30 -19.45. I was confused with the roads as the huge bridge over the Loire was busy with roadworks and diversions so missed the Calaoire road D108 for the route back to Montbrison. I was on my way for Aurec before turning back and finding a way through Roche la Moliere and la Fouillouse before joining the road back to Montebrison at Bonson. Accommodation at the same place as last night. Total drive: 227km (141 miles) 11 hours
Friday 20th April Montbrison to Chavanay
Driving from Montbrison after a good breakfast outside of the room overlooking the town I was on my way to my penultimate climb from Bourg Argental 82km (51 miles). 09.30 – 11.30. my route was along the straight road through Sury and Bonson then at St Just I found the D108 road through Caloire that I really wanted to find yesterday evening. The descent down to the Loire is quite scenic. It’s well wooded but there’s still great views down to the huge river as the road follows it for approx 16km. On reaching the bridge at the St Etienne – St Bonnet road I could see why I missed finding the way up this road yesterday. There are diversions leading traffic away from the bridge as it’ds undergoing heavy renovation and traffic is encouraged not to use it , however cars can but there are concrete blocks to reduce the width at each end so that only cars can pass. It was a relief to get through then continue on to Firminy by-passing St Etienne. From there i retraced yesterdays route back to Riotard then to Bourg Argental.
Col de la République BIG 252 1161m 12km to top from Bourg Argental and return 3 hours 11.45 – 13.15 to top then 13.15 to 13.45 return. There is a cyclist memorial stone at the top of the road on the west side to Paul de Vivie, a Frenchman from the area who lived from 1853 to 1930 and is credired with inventing cycle touring through his magazine, ‘Le Cycliste’. He always signed his work ‘Velocio’ and was also one of the first cyclists to use multiple gearing including one system where the rider pedalled forward for top gear and backwards for bottom. He penned ten commandments that all cyclists should live b. The fifth is not to drink wine – fat chance of that – at any rate not while in the saddle. The seventh is never to pedal out of vanity. Every June hundreds of cyclists cycle Col de la République to ride the Journee Velocio, a time trial up the climb from the St Etienne side. The col is considered by the French as being the dividing line between northern and Mediterranean France. I took the usual photos then enjoyed the exhilarating sweep back down to Bourg Argental where I stopped for a meal (and broke a tooth on crusty bread!) This col often features in a the Paris –Nice bike race that’s run every Marchand is called the ‘race to the sun’because it starts in the wintry north and ends on the sunny Côte d’Azur.
From here I drove 26km (16 miles) to Chavanay 14.30 – 16.00. I became confused at St Julian and took the road north for Colombier and wondered why the tower on Crét del’Oellion appeared so near – I was heading straight for it. I retraced and took the correct road through Lupe, on the way taking a look at the medieval village of Malleval perched on the hill to the north of the road. I found a car park area opposite a pub in Chavanay and began the last climb.
Crét de l’Oeillon BIG 253 1361m (pronounce ‘Oy-en) 20km (13 miles) and return 20km (13 miles) 4 hours 16.00 to 20.00. I was saving the best to the last. The road to Pelussin is fairly easy but a lot of traffic between the valley floor and thisa town. After Pelussin the traffic thins out – as does the road width. From here the way is left – twice – following the the signs for le Bessat and at Soyere the road steepns. Away from the main road the way up twists to find the easiest route up the steepest part of the climb. An 8% stretch leads to the Pelussin Forest and up to the Collet de Doizieu where the gradient slackens off to 5% Shortly the pub at la Croix du Collet is reached then its four kilometres to Col de l’Oellion. Before that are some weird looking rock formations near the belvedere on the left then the final kilometre is easy. From the col its a steep two kilometres up to the telecommunications tower at Crét de l’Oellion. Here there are great views – some of the best in France I was told. Walking by the side of the high military fence and clambering over rocks I came to the orientation viewpoint and on a clear day – and I could just about make out- Mont Blanc, towering above everything else on the horizon. It’s said that Mont Ventoux could be seen from here in the other direction – I didn’t – the sky wasn’t that clear.I slept in car at Chavanay. Total drive: 108km (69 miles) 11 hours
Saturday 21st April
I cycle the Crét de l’Oeillon from Pellusin and return, this time taking longer at the top to take in the views. I chatted with a Frenchman at the orientation post who described the views from here - a complete 360 degree view. He considered it the best view of the Rhone area from any high point. Later I drive Chavanay to Lyon 45km. View Lyon but wasn't too impressed. I bundled the bike out of the car to tour the city but was back to the car within an hour. I drive to airport in extreme traffic conditions and totally confused with direction away from the city. In 26km (16 miles) arriving at hire car drop off by 16.30. Flight departs 19.50 for Manchester 20.45 direct. When I arrived time went so quickly and not a great deal of time to reach the departure gates. Back in Manchester I caught a train from the airport to Wilmslow then another from there back home. Total drive 72km (45 miles In Order of Route In Order of Height
13 Mont de Sene BIG 228 505m 1 Col du Beal BIG 248 1390m
14 Butte de Montenoisen BIG 226 414m 2 Cret de l’Oeillon BIG 253 1361m
10 Mont Beuvray BIG 227 821m 3 Col de Charousse BIG 254 1238m
11 Signal d’Uchon BIG 229 678m 4 Col de Baracuchet BIG 249 1230m
12 Butte de Suin BIG 230 593m 5 Col de la Croix de l‘Homme Mort BIG 250 1163m
9 Col de Favardy BIG 231 862m 6 Col de la Republique BIG 252 1161m
8 Col de St Thomas BIG 242. 938m 7 BIG 251 Chaise Dieu 1084m
1 Col du Beal BIG 248 1390m 8 Col de St Thomas BIG 242. 938m
4 Col de Baracuchet BIG 249 1230m 9 Col de Favardy BIG 231 862m
5 Col de la Croix de l‘Homme Mort BIG 250 1163m
10 Mont Beuvray BIG 227 821m
7 BIG 251 Chaise Dieu 1084m 11 Signal d’Uchon BIG 229 678m
3 Col de Charousse BIG 254 1238m 12 Butte de Suin BIG 230 593m
6 Col de la Republique BIG 252 1161m 13 Mont de Sene BIG 228 505m
2 Cret de l’Oeillon BIG 253 1361m 14 Butte de Montenoisen BIG 226 414m
Rental Cars £206.61 with full waiver insurance
Three fills of petrol totalling £101.66
EasyJet flight with bike and return £133.36
Accommodation total £205. Total £461 Driving 1166km (728’ miles). Cycling 380km (237 miles)