Wednesday 29th April Home to Thessaloniki
Leaving home at 08.30 and into London at 10.30 I was loaded up with baggage on the wheels and trundled along to the bus stop in front of the station. On reflection I suppose it was amusing to the bus driver at Euston Station when I boarded the bus with a bike and a rucksack and showed my pensioner’s pass. “Oh come off it mate! “, he said, “Just how old are you?” “Well my pass proves it – over 60” “OK then, hope I’m as daft as you are when I’m your age” He let me on and later I got off the bus dodging sheets of rain at Liverpool Street station at 12.30 for the train to Stansted Airport. I arrived with plenty of time for the flight to Thessaloniki and passed through customs as quickly as possible to enjoy plenty of free samples of biscuits, sweets, liquors and after shave then settle down at the departure gate for the flight. The flight went smoothly enough and quickly as I was engrossed in a book. I was met at the airport at 22.30 with impressive efficiency by the agent of Green Motion car hire that I booked through Thomson agency a few weeks before. He phoned me at the baggage collection to ensure I’d arrived. He walked me to his van, loaded the bike and rucksack, and then drove me to the office a kilometre or so away from the airport. I had already paid £216 for the car hire and opted to take the full waver insurance for a further £44. It wasn’t needed fortunately as I had no incidents during my tour of Greece. I requested the agent to explain the controls to me and ensured everything was working then drove away in the dark on the not so busy main road into Thessaloniki. I had some trouble finding the road off to the right that led to Diakonia Hotel on Nikolaou Plastira but after asking at a few petrol stations I finally arrived before midnight. The problem being that all the signs are in Greek – all Greek to me. I drove past the barrier into the courtyard and unloaded the rucksack and settled down for the night quickly as Greek time is two hours ahead of UK time so would have only six hours sleep
Thursday 30th April 2015 Thessaloniki
The BIG contingent didn’t arrive until the evening so I went to conquer my first BIG after breakfast. Breakfast was non-descript and not much of it and I was alone in the restaurant except for three members of staff jabbering away in Greek. Later I assembled the bike minus front wheel and drove off heading north through the city then west for the climb of Seli Ski Centre BIG 912 from Naossa. I made the mistake of driving through the city centre which was extremely busy as it was still rush hour with cars jam packed jostling with one another for supremacy and getting nowhere, even overtaking on the inside. This was scary and I had some close shaves but safely emerged north of the city having driven 4km in about an hour. I can never understand why peak traffic times are called rush hour when everybody has to drive at a snails pace. Once through the city I was on the open road across the flat land through Giannitsa to Skidre then south to Naossa. I parked the car at the bottom of Agiou Theologou in front of a school at a small parking area then unloaded the bike and took that road that has an indication for Seli. I asked a local to be certain but made the mistake of asking an old man who went off on a huge tangent reminiscing of his experience in the past cycling to Seli when he was younger, I listened politely looking at my watch and eventually tore myself way and up the road. It took me two hours from 12.15 to 2.15 to reach the top after 17km. Seli itself is a straggling village of red roofs nestling across the mountain slopes and after a short down into the village it rises again to the brow of the mountainside and to the small ski centre. I returned back down the same way along the tree lined route, collected the car with some trouble starting it as I’d locked the steering wheel and rang up the hire company for assistance. I returned back to Thessaloniki the same way and only realised the following day that if I had driven east from the hotel I would have found the ring road that would have brought me north of the city without any hassle. That evening I wandered around the local area, bought some drinks for tonight and bananas for tomorrow then relaxed on my balcony eating remaining food from home and greeted some of the BIG contingent as they arrived. Most of them arrived around midnight and were busy assembling their bikes in the first floor lounge. I met Martin (Vinny) Taylor, Christiaan Weytmans, Michel Pierre, Peter and Marlou Notten.
Friday 1st May 2015 Thessaloniki to Florina
The group had decided to go to Serres first then climb Hortiatis later but I can’t do this as I had to reach Florina in the north-west of Greece to keep to my own itinerary, and then hopefully join them later in a few days. I would climb Hortiatis then drive to Florina for the two climbs from there, south then later west of the town. We shared breakfast together around a large round table then they all prepared for their drive to Serres. Saying goodbye to them, later I drove from the hotel east to Panorama and parked up and bungled out the bike for the bike climb to Hortiatis BIG 911. It took me two hours to reach the top. At first the way is along a wide road with concrete blocks on either side and views back down the valley then reached a bus terminus which I should have taken notice of because just past this is a road junction where I took a right turn for the climb. To the left the road returns back down to Thessaloniki. I went wrong at this point on my return back down from Hortiatis. From the road junction the road opens out to a level section for 2km then there’s a right turn into Hortiatis village and the steady climb up along bends to reach a clearing where there are radio towers to the left and straight on for the upper section of the road leading to the Greek Air Force base at the top. At Hortiatis I can’t see any harm in taking photos around the road area. I took the photos even though there are notices strictly forbidding photos in the area. It took me two hours to reach the top then half an hour down to the bus station point but then I took the wrong road and continued straight on for Thessaloniki and should have turned left by the bus terminus, this wasted an hour as I had to cycle back up again for 6km and it was hot now. Back down to the city finally finding the car again when I found the correct road from the bus terminus. I found out later, not knowing before, that really there’s no need to suffer the traffic congestion through the town but there is a ring road east of the hotel at Panorama that would take me north of the city. I wish they told me earlier as I was now in another snarl up through the city trying to get to Florina in good time to do the two climbs there. Too late I joined the melee and eventually escaped the city at Diavata. Now I was on the open road. At Halkidona I took the road to the right that avoids the archaeological site at Nea Pella. I continued on to Florina, passing the roads indicated for FYROM (Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia as opposed to Greek Macedonia territory) and also another road and customs point for Albania and reaching the town at 15.00. I filled up with petrol for the first time at Florina, 56€. Scenery on a 10km approach to the town is interesting open country. In Florina by the roundabout I headed north and saw the indication for Kastoria on this minor road so knew I was on the right road but still had confusion as I took a left when I should have gone to the right and ended up at a farm track! Soon rectified I parked up the car south of Idroussa and pleased to see that the road was closed to traffic because of a landfall. I had a quiet bike ride up to the top of Vitsi, BIG 908. At first there’s a river valley, a small very inviting small hotel that was almost hard to resist then a climb away on a peaceful road without traffic over a bridge at the head of the valley then a left turn and on up into the trees for the gradual climb up and away from warm weather to the cooler and higher conditions to reach the snowline. Near the top there was old snow on the road then soon I reached a clearing past a welcome water well where I filled up to emerge at the open top and the Greek Air Force military area where it was forbidden to take photos but blow that, I’m a friend not foe! It took me from 15.00 to 17.45 to reach the top then 40 minutes back down at 18.35 being careful of the ice on the descent. Back in Florina I was conscious of the daylight hours and immediately made my way up to Pissoderi Ski Centre BIG 910, leaving my car a kilometre above the town in a lay-by. It was an interesting cycle up along the tree lined road with the setting sun in front of me so needed shades. It took me two hours to reach there at 20.00 and the daylight was going. There is nothing much at the top except for a wooden café opposite a stone bust of a patriarch and a memorial to Second World War atrocities. I had enough time to return back down the mountain before dark but on the way up I noticed a hotel so returned to the car and drove back up. This was the Hotel Veltsi where I paid 35€ for a good night’s sleep and excellent breakfast in the morning, reaching there at 21.00.
Saturday 2nd May 2015 Florina to Kalampaka
From Florina I drove back over the Pissoderi road and down to Kastoria for a wide open but empty road to Neopoli. From there I took the mountain road through historic Pendalofos to Konitsa and found a minor road to Vikos for Megalo Papingo BIG 915. It’s a narrow but open country steep winding road up to touristy Vikos. I was soon in the cobbled streets and parked the car at a small grassy area just north of the village on the Papingo road in front of a figure monument. Bundling the bike out of the car I asked the way at a café just to be certain of the direction and sure enough I was on the correct road. It was deceiving at first because the way to Papingo is steeply down a high hedged road to reach a stream after 2km where many people enjoy kayak activity. From there the road was obvious as there are at least twenty tight turns followed by a long section skirting the upper valley on the left that swings round to the right to a ledge along which Megalo and Mikro Papingo villages perch under the looming bulk of Mt Astraka. If not too busy watching the road to stay alive a view to the right is the Vikos Gorge, 900 metres depth. The villages consist of grey stone and cobbled roads. I stopped for a while at the pub opposite the slender round church tower and had a large iced Mythen lager 3€ and took a break for an hour before returning back down the hairpins to the stream then back up to Vikos. The adventure took me from 12.00 noon to 14.30. From there I drove back down on a wider road to the main road and on to Ionnina then to Katara Pass BIG 916 at 15.15. I left the car at an exit of the motorway at Metsovo to reach the slow plough station of Katara. I wasn’t really impressed with the place, nothing much to see at the top. This must have been a busy road before the motorway was constructed. Back down to Metsovo with its many hotels and drove on from the motorway junction to Kalambaka. The strange shape of the smooth hills loomed up on the horizon long before I reached them. At 20.00 I searched around for a night’s stay after filling up the tank for the second time. I found a hotel at a reasonable price at the\ eastern edge of the town, unpacked and showered then went off in search for somewhere to eat. I found a good pizzeria where I ordered a large pasta and beer. I read up about the area from the Rough Guide Greece guidebook and planned tomorrow’s tour of the Meteoro. I was really looking forward to it as this seemed an interesting place to cycle. Later I was able to use the hotel computer and send a few hotmails and texted Ruth then had an early night.
Sunday 3rd May 2015 Kalampaka to Amfissa
A crowded breakfast time as all the hotels were full, had some difficulty finding a room last night. It was good that I found this one at a reasonable price. The breakfast was nothing to write home about but it was filling. Coffee was continually served by an attendant. Later I took the rucksack back to the car parked on a road opposite that slopes steeply up towards the smooth rocks but can’t possibly go up that way but only to the back of the town. I unload the bike from the car and cycle out in a clockwise direction through the town to the west then a fairly steep road climb to the left of the smooth rocks to reach the first of the six monasteries. The road at this point passes through a valley gap between the huge rocks then climbs up further, round to the right then left past another monastery on the right to emerge eventually at a road junction. The left turn goes up for a final gradual incline to the highest monastery Great Meteoro BIG 917. Once there I took some photos and admired the view of the monastery perched on the rock and the landscape of the smooth rocks and clefts between. The area resembles a mini Dolomites – with a bit of imagination. Meteoro means ‘suspended in the air’, I suppose that’s also the meaning of those lumps of rock flying through space. While there at Great Meteoro another cyclist appeared and we chatted. This man was amazing. He was Ukrainian and had cycled 6000km from Kiev to reach here as he really wanted to include this on his tour in Greece. I’m getting old – all I can manage is to cycle from my hire car in Kalambaka and felt a bit ashamed when he asked me how far I had come. I handed him my camera and asked him to take a photo of me in front of the monastery, he obliged then shortly after he was on his way. I felt like a tourist now rather than a cyclist after that encounter. There wasn’t much point in trying to explore the monastery because the monks might not take kindly to cyclist lycra. I carried on around the circuit, having started at 8.30 and reached the monastery road summit at 10.00 followed by a ¾ hour cycle back down to where the car was parked. On the way I took a road off to the right that’s a cul- de-sac to a monastery on the eastern edge of the rock formation. From there it was back to the circuit road then a 2km drop passing through luscious green open country of grass and bush and to reach Kalambaka. Once there I loaded the bike back into the car and followed a coach along the straight road to south east to Trikala. It felt a bit strange after the mountain circuit to be suddenly in a valley where there are no hills and just a straight road. From Trikala to Karditsa and road works there as it seems that the motorway is being built, this will come from the Metsovo junction heading for Lamia. It was a long drive to Lamia. Once there I took a right heading back west for the next cycle climb from Timfristos. This wasn’t easy as I had a problem finding the road for Karpenisi to the west and passed through the narrow town streets trying to find it. Eventually I found out that I needed to follow the Athens road a short distance then take a right at the edge of the town as this now by-passed the town streets. A pleasant drive along the green valley to Aghois Georgios. From there to Timfristos there’s a series of twenty hairpins leading up to the village. This is a typical mountain village not for tourism but for farming. I saw one shop and a bar and some clapped out farming vehicles. This place is at quite a height and stands alone as shortly after it the road descends again to reach the choice of the tunnel or over the mountainside by the old national road. I cycled the old national road having left the car behind at Timfristos at 15.30. This then is a triple climb from the east if cycling however I only cycled the double climb up the old national road and down to Karpenisi at 16.30. Then up the long climb to Velouchi Ski Centre, BIG 919. It was difficult to find the start of this. I was told at a garage on the edge of the town to go to the mini roundabout and up from there however I made the mistake of taking the turn above the town and not to the right. This was the old road that led to the top but at first I thought it was only a track as the narrow steep road has centre ridge of grass. This road soon took me well above the town and soon become the typical mountain road leaving the lower green slopes for a rocky landscape then the snowline was reached. I passed a radio mast and caught a glimpse of the ski centre over the rise. A few more bends and a kilometres and I was there. The whole area was deserted; in fact no traffic passed me the whole way up the mountainside. Again my praise to the founders of the BIG because this is a perfect challenge for cycling, a lonely traffic free road! At the top at 18.30 where there is an older building to the left and the more recent ski centre to the right. Just over the rise at the end of the road are the ski drag lifts. The slopes at the time were still snow covered but surely not enough now to ski. I took the usual photos then did an about turn after putting on helmet and more clothing – especially gloves. It was quite cold up here compared to the heat in the valley. From here back down to the car at 19.15 with a final climb back up to Timfristos. Here I had a decision to make, whether to drive west for Patra on Sparta or sleep somewhere tonight near Itea or Delphi for the climb of the next BIG tomorrow, the Fteroloaka Ski Centre. I decided on the latter because if I had gone direct to Patra the Fterolaka climb would have to follow the climb north of Athens and that would be too energetic and not achievable in one day’s daylight cycling. This meant however that I would be driving south from Lamia this evening in the dark. Driving from Timfristos it was already dark as I came into the town. I found the road for Athens easily enough having come this way before but now the way was straight on. I was glad I drove this way in the daylight before. A few kilometres further I took the road for Amfissa in the total darkness. I needed the beam but oncoming motorists weren’t pleased. I found a hotel for the night in the centre of Amfissa but no breakfast included no matter as I could have some at a nearby bar in the morning. I had a kebab and chips with beer from a large local sit in take-way place then back to the hotel. I had parked in front on the road and lumbered the rucksack into the room and settled down for the night.
Monday 4th May 2015 Amfissa to Killini for Kefalonia
An early start because I wanted to reach Killini port this evening to enable me to catch the first ferry to Kefalonia the following morning. I allowed myself 3 hours to reach the top of this morning’s climb, Fterloloka Ski Centre BIG 921. After breakfast at a bar I was away at 08.00 and drove 7km along a fairly flat road to the road junction for Itea. The coastal resort is 5km down steeply. I left the car at the road junction and cycled steeply up to Delphi, the road bordered by tall cypress most of the way. Approaching Delphi there’s a fantastic view of the Gulf of Corinth that separates Greece from Sparta. It’s a long twisty road to the top and Delphi is only part way. I stopped here for a while at 09.00 to visit the ruins. The ancient Greeks believed this to be the centre of the world. This was proved by releasing two doves in opposite directions and waiting for them to return which they did both at the same time – fast doves. There are columns, remains of an amphitheatre and more. The sanctuary of Apollo is to the left of the main road heading for Arahova and just to the right of the entrance is the brickwork of the Roman Agora. Steps lead up to the Doric Temple of Apollo. There’s a well preserved 4th century theatre complete with ushers and ice cream vendors and from the theatre the path continues up to the stadium, the best preserved in all of Greece – even down to the sprinters’ etched stone starting blocks and to crown it all the story of the Oracles of Delphi. From here I biked on further up to Arahova and passed through the narrow streets, took a left, a couple of curves and then on up to the avalanche shelter and chapel at the top of rise then a long downhill into a straggling village, Kalivia Arachovas in the upper valley. At this point 14km from Arachova I was at the road junction indicated by a small empty hut to the right of the road then up 9km through the forest and eventually a clearing among wild rocks at the Parnassus Ski resort. There are two I’m told but I only went to Fterolaka Ski Resort, arriving at 13.00 and took the usual photos and retreated back again. At the time there were workmen up there at the centre. Snowploughs were busy up the mountainside. From the forest the road dips a bit when the open road is reached, coming to a right turn the ski centre is that way. There is another road coming away from the ski centre to the right that rejoins the Amfiklia road further along. I returned the same way, took some more photos of the valley and wayside shrines and must have a photo of the avalanche shelter with my bike where the words ‘silent progression’ describes our activity! I later had a mousaka and beer in Delphi and returned to the car. From there I followed the cypress tree lined route down to Itea then 45 miles skirting the coast to Natpaktos and the cantilever bridge over the Corinthian sea for Patra, however I headed west along the north coast until Diakofto. I suffered a setback financially at the bridge as I had to pay 13.00€ for the privilege of crossing then a further 2km as I was on the motorway. I drove on among road works all the way, left the motorway at Egio after filling up with petrol and a fill up of my belly then took a minor road into Diakofto. From there I headed inland at approx 15.00 conscious of time to reach and cycle the second BIG today before darkness approached. It seemed a long way up to Kalavrita then along upper valleys to reach Klitoria and the road junction for Tripoli. I was relieved to get to that road junction as I only had three hours before dark. It was a further 24km, 15 miles to Levidi. I asked about a hotel from a shop kiosk at the road junction. The only hotel was close by and could see it wasn’t up to much so made my decision to head for Killini night driving later. I bundled the bike out and started off for Oligortos, BIG 926 at 19.15 on the Nemea road, confused at first because the first kilometre was going down away from Levedi then a gradual 10km rise to Kandila over a road with pot holes followed by the serious stuff, a 9km rise to the top of pass marked by a radio mast and white rocks where the road was in a deep cutting, limestone cliffs on either side but just beyond the cliffs give way to a great view south across the valley. I reached the top at 20.30. Looking back the way I came through the rocky gap I could see the ruby red sun and a deep rose coloured sky as it was now fast approaching dusk. I took the usual photos with the bike as a model perched up by small rocks then quickly made my way back to Levedi. Only a few kilometres away it became dark but I was fortunate there were no cars. I bundled the bike back into the car and followed the road signs for Olympus. It took me until midnight to reach Killini along the narrow twisty road that never seemed to end. The only pace of any size is Stavrodromi before reaching Mouria then a string of buildings passing Olympus before reaching Pirgos where I was relieved to be on a wide dual carriageway but I still had to contend with too many traffic lights along the way so it was stop-start to the Killini junction. This wasn’t clearly marked as the way to the port so made one mistake by turning off at Andravida but soon corrected. Once on the Killini road off the highway it was a partly rough surface sandy road part way along but I soon emerged in Killini and booked in at a hotel on the green facing the ferry port. An old couple who ran it charged me in cash as it was cheaper and I paid 5€ for an evening meal there with plenty of tea as there was nowhere else open now. I arranged to leave the car in front of the hotel the following day. I sank into bed at 1.00pm satisfied.
Tuesday 5th May, Kefalonia
Poros 8.45 to Sami 12.00, to Enos 17.00, Enos 17.15 to Poros 18.30
I hadn’t paid for breakfast so leaving the car and rucksack in front of the hotel packed my side pannier bag with what I needed, tools, spare tube, jacket, helmet and food then biked along to the ticket booth at the ferry concrete where the traffic queues up and bought a ticket for 8.50€ one way on the 08.15 ferry to Poros. I had my breakfast on board; ham and cheese toast and a couple of coffees. An hour and half later I was biking off the ferry ramp and uphill for the Argostoli to Sami road and picked up some fallen lemons on the way. They’ll do for when it gets hot later. It was a\ steep uphill through Agais Nicholaos to Digaletto. I ate two bananas at the small square in front of the war memorial and bought a litre of water from a shop opposite and a friendly chat with the shopkeeper. From there it was downhill all the way and into Sami. I took a look around the waterfront, every shop a café or car/ferry hire place. On the street behind are the real shops – grocers etc. I took a left hoping to be on the Argostoli road for Enos BIG 922 but this was only the coast road north. A fellow at a garage said he was a keen cyclist, had and still does take part in bike races that includes the Enos and was keen to explain how to cycle to the top. He gave me a map of the island and explained that I should take a road to the right by the Avin petrol station and continue for 3km to the ridge. It is steep he warned – and it is! Along here there’s a wall on the right and views back down between the trees of Sami and the north of the island. Much of the road was under trees but it was still hot. Eventually I reached the green Enos road indicated as 15km to the top. The road surface is fairly good, potholes but on the whole good if careful where to ride. The upper section of the road inside the national park has a better surface and is not exposed to the harsh sun as it’s under trees all the way. I was hot and bothered when I reached the trees and needed to rest a while and drink plenty of water. I chatted with a German couple here. In my very poor German I asked, “haben quelle brunnen im strasse?” They replied saying they hadn’t seen any wells further up so I saved some water for later. I wouldn’t need it on the way down. I passed an outward bound centre near the top, a place that encourages youth for the outdoors. The top was an anti-climax. It’s crowned by radio masts that I eventually reached. There’s a small road circuit around the masts. I took some photos then returned the same way. Just past the satellite dishes there’s a road junction for Poros 20km and this is 11km down from the radio masts. It made good sense to take this road rather than retrace my route as it would avoid having to cycle the climb from Sami to Digaletto. I took this but still ended up taking a wrong road just before the mountain top village. I took a left instead of right for the church at the top of the hill – indicated as sports centre, that’s the right way. A slight uphill to the church then it was all downhill back to Poros. The last ferry of the day was at 19.15 and I had plenty of time so bought my ticket and had a needed beer at a bar by the ferry. I boarded the ferry and took some parting shots of Enos from the back of the ferry just as the sun was setting over the mountain. I was back in Killini at 20.45 and checked in at the other hotel away from the coast, collecting my car from the first hotel. This was a bit more plush. It was cheaper and breakfast was included. I parked the car around the back, took a shower and went out for a meal at a pizzeria near the ferry. I had to change money at an ATM later as they wouldn’t take a card. From there it was back to the hotel and slept at a decent hour tonight.
Wednesday 6th May Killini to Sparti
Today I hoped to meet up with the BIG contingent. I planned to meet them at Andritsena inland from Krestena. Leaving at 09.00 after a good breakfast and doggy bag for lunch I drove to Pirgos but took the wrong turning. The continuation of the main road south is actually a right turn off the road I was on and I continued past Olympus so doubled back and took the turning which led me into Pirgos streets then through on to the road for Krestena. Once there the road was well signposted for Andritsena, a narrow road that gradually came to the mountains. In the Kallithea area before Andritsena there were road works. The road was up and being diverted. This cost me time and didn’t reach Andritsena until 11.30, half an hour after the BIG contingent was scheduled to begin the road climb of the Apollo Epikourios, BIG 923. I met Frenchman Daniel Coulon of the BIG who strolled across to my parked car and introduced himself and told me he had cycled the Apollo and that the main group were still climbing to the top. At least I think that’s what he said as I don’t understand French – the language that is not the people! I decided to drive to the to drive to the top in the hope of meeting them then cycle down, then back up again. I saw Peter Notten and Marlou as they were coming down so thought the others were up there. Parking at the Apollo Temple – Temple of Vasses site I clambered over the rocky path into the canvas covered area that protects the antiquity (3.00€ admission). The temple is situated on a wild isolated spot overlooking rugged mountains and is listed as a World Heritage site. It’s one of Greece’s most romantic and atmospheric archaeological sites. The 14km road from Andritsena climbs along a mountain ridge through dramatic scenery to arrive at the temple at 1200 metres. The striking and well preserved temple is robbed of some of its splendour and immediate visual impact by the gigantic semi permanent steel girded tent covering it as it undergoes a slow restoration programme. The temple was built in 420BC by the nearby people of Figalia who dedicated it to Apollo Epicurus (the Helper) for delivering them from the plague. Taking the bike out of the car, I hoped now to cycle the BIG as soon as possible and meet the BIG contingent on the second pass of the day west from Sparti. The weather was hot and the white rocks up here reflected the sun. At least I was cooler freewheeling back down to Andritsana. There are crumbling buildings with rickety wooden balconies and a stream that gushes down the road through the old square in the centre. There was no sign of the others in the village. I turned round and cycled up the pass in 2 ½ hours (12.00 – 14.30). Most of the way up is bordered by bush land and very little shade from trees which made it a hot ride. I had plastered myself with sun cream and glad of it. Further up I noticed the road off to the left with an indication for Kalamata to the south. I would take that road but for now reach the temple again as the bush land gave way to the white rocks for the final kilometres. Collecting the car I drove south through Kato Melpia and Meligalas where I stopped at the river bridge to eat my doggy bag from breakfast and juice bought from a shop in the village just passed through. On to Kalamata on the old road then took the mountain road over the Langada Pass to Sparti and booked in at 16.00 at the Lakonia Hotel which wasn’t hard to find after driving down the Langada Pass, in the town, take a left and park. I asked at reception if the group had arrived but they hadn’t as yet so requested the receptionist to tell them I had booked in and I would meet them on the pass. Before I went I checked the arranged meeting place, a small park nearby but no sign of them so I started cycling the Langada Pass, BIG 928 at 16.45. At first the road rises gently away from Sparti to Tripi through bush land then where the mountainside converges to the road the climb begins through a gap, the Langada Gorge. I took a break over a river bridge on the way up and was passed by Bas Nieuwenhuizen who recognised me and said “Hello, Kevin”, nonchalantly. He recognised the BIG vest I suppose and presumed it was me. A few minutes later Lina Karbauskiene came over the bridge and said hello and “You’re wearing a BIG vest!” “So I am!” I introduced myself but of course we had all met together previously in Diakonia Hotel in Thessaloniki. After finishing my apple I rode on alone under the overhanging rocks and followed the meandering road through the narrow gorge to the hairpins where the olive groves start. At that point Christiaan Weytmans and Michel Pierre caught me up and stayed with me some way. Following up soon after came Achim John. Christiaan and Achim stayed with me to the top of the pass. Christiaan told me that they were much later getting to the Apollo Pass, about ½ an hour after I started consequently they were also later starting the climb of the Langada Pass. Up from Sparti at 16.30 to 19.30 then an hour returning down just before dark. I met others on the way up. The last few kilometres Christiaan rode with me and we were later joined by Achim, the road was easy as far as Tripi then the climb starts after passing over the river bridge. From there under rock tunnels and overhangs then olive groves to the top. The final few kilometres are hairpins. We took photos at the top then turned around and back down to Sparti. I stopped a few times to take photos. Back in Sparti we arranged to meet and went out for a meal at a restaurant on the square which was to the right of the hotel, on the Langada road but just around the corner we crossed over then to the right of the square. We all sat together outside and enjoyed plenty of starters – feta cheese, followed by pasta for me and others had meat dishes, etc. We were guided to the restaurant by a local girl that we met on the street and it was a good recommendation. Later back to the hotel.
Thursday 7th May 2015 Sparti to Kosmas and return to Sparti
It made a change sitting around the breakfast table in company! I was going to drive my hired car to the road junction near Geraki however Christiaan offered me a lift in the hired bus, Christiaan then drove to the road junction. We decided against cycling the 20 mile distance to Geraki as there is very little uphill so we continued to a road junction near the village. Even at 10.00 in the morning we felt the heat and Lina looked at her hand computer and read 36 degrees and rising. We knew we were in for a hot ride 18km up the Kosmas Pass BIG 927. We set off individually but we were all more or less within a few hundred metres of one another. I passed Achim and found out later that the fish at the restaurant last night was still swimming up and down in his gullet, he’d been sick earlier. After my trip to Mallorca and feeling queasy after eating shrimps I quite understood! He cycled on up the mountain perhaps in a slower pace than usual. We passed the red rocks past the olive groves and road cuttings through the rocks along a straight road steady up then 4km from the top the road rises in hairpins to a corner then round to the right to the war memorial and took photos to what we thought was the top. Actually the top is a few kilometres further on a minor road out from Kosmas village. It took us from 10.00 to 12.30 then an hour to return to Girake, 13.00 to 14.00. Christiaan and I rode over the top for just over a kilometre to join Michel and Lina lounging at a bar in the square drinking coke in the heat. We sat for a while and had another drink, and I took yet another photo then we returned to Achim with a nice cold coke. Kosmas village is 1km further over from the top of the pass on the south side. It was a long struggle up in the heat, reaching 40 degrees as the morning progressed. There are bends 4km from the end which was a relief as I felt I was getting somewhere. Back down to the vehicle Lina was reading her computer temperature to us it was 39 degrees – then 40 degrees – “and counting”, I said. That was one hot ride. Later we all drove back to Sparti, proud of our conquest and all feeling like Spartans. I mentioned that as this was an official annual meeting perhaps we could have an unofficial meeting and send it to Dan to add to Christian’s financial report as every club should have an AGM each year. We all agreed and would meet in the hotel conference room before going out for a meal. Back at the hotel I booked the conference room and ordered beer and nuts. I asked about the swimming pool – there wasn’t one. “What!” The receptionist phoned up, “You can use the hotel next door free” So back to the room for the towel and along to the next hotel. The pool is situated past the reception and I was allowed in with a smile. Shortly afterwards Bas joined me. It was cold at first but at 40 degree air temperature it was soon just great to be able to swim and sunbathe on the loungers afterwards. Later we had our meeting then all met for a meal and we would try the Square area again but this time we walked straight ahead across the Square to a different restaurant and had much the same as we had the previous night. We talked a lot then back to the hotel
Friday 8th May 2015 Sparti to Ligourio
After a good breakfast we made our way north east to the Argolis Peninsula. I took a route directly north then took a right for Argos at Tripoli, reached the coast at Lemi then north into Argos. Coming down to the coast from Tripoli there’s fantastic scenery of the bay area and the low lying land in the Argos/Nafplio area. I stopped to take photos then passed through Argos where there’s an ancient fort on the hill overlooking the town. From there I struck north heading for the next BIG, which I knew would be an easy one but it was included for its historic and touristic value. From Argos after 12km heading north took a right turn indicated for Mycenae Citadel, then a left after a kilometre or so to Mikines. Mycenae Citadel BIG 924 is only 3km from Mikines and not steep, however it’s an interesting BIG as it rises from the valley floor and the tourist village giving great views across the flat countryside and of the ancient ruins in front at the end of the road. There were scores of people there spewing out of the coaches and walking aimlessly across the road, oblivious to a cyclist trying to get through but then again who am I? I gave way to people power and got off the bike at the top to take a look over the railings to the ruins of the citadel embedded into the rocks of the hillside. Ii didn’t see the point of going in as most of it can be seen from the road and gathered from the reading of the information boards. I took some photos and of the end of the road looking down to the valley then made my way back again after buying a Greek coffee. Down in the village I bought a cold beer from a shop and sat on a bench opposite reading my guide book when I got a beep from a passing mini bus – the group had arrived. We waved and then I made my way back to the car at the bottom of the village and drove on, heading for Ligourio, taking a left turn past Triada to a road junction then took a left for Ligourio. The weather was really hot even with the windows open for the breeze, the countryside being low lying. The road is lined with cypress trees and on reaching Ligourio went past the hotel as it’s before the small town to the right of a roundabout. I asked in the town and drove back again down the road and soon found it. I booked in as an addition to the group as I wasn’t listed. The owner certainly didn’t mind. The place is a simple hotel of rooms situated along an outside balcony. Soon after booking Peter and Marlou Notten arrived. The owner told us all about the only restaurant nearby, across the road and if we wanted anything in particular that may not be on the menu we were to tell him then he would go see them at the restaurant to obtain it before we visited later. We couldn’t think of anything special so we’d risk it. I decided to tackle the second climb of the day and was soon followed by Peter and Marlou. I drove to just before a junction of roads halfway between Adami and Trahai at the top of a hill in a lay-by. This was a mistake as I would have to cycle back uphill later! So the way was now down to the road junction for Corinth and through Trahai then began the climb of Mount Didyma BIG 920 passing olive groves then a gradual ascent to a wide right turn hairpin then up a slope with great views looking back down to Trahai to reach the road summit of the main road. It was a sheer coincidence that I met Peter and Marlou at the top. They had gone over the other way and were just coming back and asked me if this was the top. As far as I knew it was. We posed for photos then they went back to the car that they had left in Trahai. A few minutes later I found another road leading off to the north, only a small road hidden by bushes but they had missed it. This led to the top of the Didyma at the radio masts and metal gates. It was easy to miss this – and Peter & Marlou weren’t the only ones! Michel and Christiaan were aware of it but couldn’t find it and went over the top of the climb almost to Fourni village looking for it. I suggested to them when I met them on my return back down that they claim both sides of the climb for their records. The climb on the small road was a lot more difficult than the way up along the main road, and took longer. I passed farmers herding their goats and rode a ridge that has some resemblance to Bosley Minn only of course much higher and longer. At the end of the ridge I could see the masts but still a long way off. The road has pot holes so was tricky on the way down. The final part of the road circles in a clockwise direction to reach the masts protected by an ugly high metal fence, not very photogenic for the top of the climb but a great view from the top all around. It’s the highest point for many miles around. On the way down Bas and Lina passed me on their way up and later I met Michel who was a bit annoyed having missed the turning for this road. Further down Christiaan was taking a break on the way up. I asked if I could have a lift in the bus from Trahai back to my parked car. He arranged with Lina and passed her the keys. I later waited at the mini bus for them to appear and Lina drove me back. From there back to the hotel and later we all went to a restaurant across the road. This was handy as we were in semi-country and that was the only other building and place to eat. We enjoyed good Greek cuisine with wine outdoors alongside a very quiet road. The only sound came from crickets and our conversation. We returned at 23.00 and so to bed.
Saturday 9th May 2015 Ligourio to Lamia
We sat around and had a good breakfast. No meat or cheese though, we asked but there was none on offer. We all packed up and drove off. I went to go and se Epidavros, the Greek amphitheatre that is almost a complete structure. From there I drove the coast route to Corinth. Wonderful bay scenery and some photos along the way. I arrived at Isthmia and took a left for Corinth. I was really disappointed with the place as expected to at least see some Corinthian Columns there! Even the waterfront where I parked after struggling to find a parking space held no interest. I saw a sign for Akracorinthos – Old Corinth so took that direction. I was glad I did. Here was the Corinth I expected. I left car at the fountain at the foot and cycled 3km up the steep hillside to the red stone fortress. I had to leave the bike at the entrance, glad I brought my locks. The way up is over steep slippery round cobbles. A loud Italian coach party was having problems but then they had totally inappropriate footwear. I walked up the steep path to the inner keep. I recognised from the guide book the view across to the other hillside topped by the Temple of Aphrodite where St Paul became angry with the Greek pantheists and intellectuals of the day. It was within these walls at Acrocorinth where he addressed his epistles to the people here. Back to the bike, steeply down to the car and along to the Corinthian Canal, the short 5km cutting through the rock and a chasm that separated Sparta from the rest of Greece. I parked up just past the canal on the right and went to see the canal from the bridge spanning the gorge. I took a few photos and carried on being careful to take the coastal minor road for Athens as I wanted to avoid Athens if at all possible and skirt north of it to Aharnes for the climb of the Karabola Parnithia. The coast road is quite fantastic, had a few stops to take in the views then looked for a way to avoid Athens and head north. At Magoula I found a road then asked at a garage. I was given directions for a cross-country route. The guy wished me well saying “I love you!” “I Iove you too!”TI think it was sarcasm because I ended up in an industrial estate and a maze of roads that I couldn’t find my way out off, at one point it was so narrow that I couldn’t turn the car so had to reverse some distance. Eventually I found my way out of the maze and on to the outskirts of the city. I asked at another garage where they suggested going on to the toll road and head east. I did this and at the toll booth asked again. This time I was given clear instructions so 2.00€ well spent on the toll. I came off heading for Thrakomakedones. It was only signposted in Greek but it was obvious. From there I headed for the mountain but went wrong again and came to the Olympic Village to the east of Parnithia. I should have taken a left off this road when I was driving towards the mountain. Olympic Village was built for the contestants and officials of the last Olympic Games held in Athens. I took the bike out of the car but soon found out there was no way up the mountain even though I could see the huge tower at the top. I asked at another garage and was directed down the mountain, take a right then carry on. Sure enough that was the road. When I was certain I took the bike out and cycled the mountain. I was now on Karabola-Parnithia, BIG 925. The road surface is excellent all the way to the top however this was a long climb. The 22km took me 4 hours and top of that the 2 hours wasted looking for a way up from the Olympic Village. There are many hairpins and from the twists up had unrestricted views of Athens and the ocean all the way to the casino. This is on a side road off to the right however the climb continues a few more kilometres, this time under trees to the military base at the top. Again there are notices prohibiting photography or videoing. I ignored but didn’t take photos of the base, only by the white chapel building on the left and the view down the road from the top. There were many cyclists on the climb but one that stands out in particular was a chap I saw near the top who had already passed me part way up then went down again and when I was on my way down he was on his way up again; extreme masochism! Part way down below the casino I stopped to look at the wood figure carvings, carved out of thick wooden poles. It was approx 17.00 when I joined the A1 road and headed north away from Athens and headed for Lamia. It took me nearly 3 hours on the toll road to reach there and asked around at other hotels in Lamia for directions to the hotel where the group would be stopping. They hadn’t booked in as yet so I texted Christiaan who replied to say they were late leaving Fterolaka and were eating at a restaurant in Amfiklia and would arrive at approx 23.00. I went out for a meal to a restaurant north of the hotel near the centre and had pasta and a beer. Later when the group arrived Christiaan and I went to the square in the centre and sat outside a noisy bar to have beers and chat a while. Later back to the hotel and sleep.
Sunday 10th May 2015 Lamia to Litohoro (Mount Olympus)
After breakfast at the hotel we arrange to meet in Volos 110km, 70 miles north at Carrefours supermarket on the outskirts of the town. This is at the foot of the next BIG, the Pliasidhi BIG 918 and made a convenient starting point as we could use the car park today as the store was closed. I arrived there a bit later than the others as I was confused in Volos. I went directly into the town but this was wrong. I found another Carrefours supermarket next to a garage but this also was wrong. I asked at the garage and was directed to the correct road and told to go along there but still no sign of it so phoned Christiaan. He said it was on a wide road north east of the city and opposite an electric power station. From where I stopped to phone him I could see the power station! Christiaan and Lina were about to go when I saw them, they acknowledged. “Oneva!” he said - let’s go. The others had already gone ahead. I parked up on the road at the foot of the climb and followed them soon after at 10.30. From the foot to the girder tower structure at the very top of Pliasidhi BIG 918 is a distance of 24km. Portaria village halfway up is a place to hang out for the view from bar terraces. There are souvenir shops there and some hotels. I passed on because I wanted to catch up with the group. On the way to Protaria there are many twists of the road. After the village country opens up to wide views across to the south and later enters a wooded area and a left turn off the main road at a white hotel for the narrow road up to the military base and final left turn to the base and the metal tower at 13.45. I met Bas and Lina coming down followed by Christiaan so knew I wasn’t too far behind them. I took some photos by the gate at the end of the road but told off by someone from inside the base telling me to move. Back down in ¾ of an hour, the way I came. I took more photos and somehow took a wrong turn as I entered the outskirts of Volos – gone to right. It was soon obvious when I reached the crossing road at the foot that I needed to go left and met the others. Two of them had also taken a wrong turn. I left Volos before them. I didn’t realise that would be the last time I saw them on this trip as I missed them at Mount Olympus as they were already on the climb when I got there. I drove on to Litochori at the foot of Mount Olympus through Velestino and on to the motorway passing Larisa, 115km – 81 miles. I arrived there at 17.00 and texted the others but found out they were already cycling. I parked up at the village park and it took me 2.¼ hours to reach the top of Priona Olympus BIG 914 but this time Zeus was throwing his thunderbolts as it started thunder and lightning part way up. Past Metochi Monastery off to the right on a side road it was still dry but menacing up above and reached the control point and information cabin and asked for a leaflet in English and was told that I wouldn’t have a dry ride to the end of the road. Sure enough I got wet! It wasn’t so bad though, I had my rainwear even though I had to take shelter part way up under the trees until the worst of the anger Zeus was over. The group must have passed me by. I cycled 5km further to Stavros at 945 metres. This is the Dimitrios Bountolas Mountain Refuge, a further 4km to reach Gortsia 14km from Litochori at 1120 metres being the highest point at the information board. From there 2km down to Dionysius Monastery at 830 metres then a final 1.7km climb to Priona at 1060 metres. Actually the weather wasn’t so bad, typical British climate really! When it eased I continued on in the rain past a café and radio mast to the top marked with an information board then a 2km downhill to where the monastery is off to the left then I had a short kilometre rise on gravel to the café cabin at the end of the road, Priona Olympus itself. Met a couple in there who had hoped to go walking. They told me of a waterfall 2km away on the path worth visiting but really I didn’t want to see that, Zeus might be even more angry. I returned back down in the rain and this is where I really got wet! I was hoping to reach Thessaloniki to be at a reasonable distance to drive to Lailas Ski Centre from Serras tomorrow but after the rain and feeling too tired and cold after the return down the mountain I opted to stay in Litohoro for the night and walked into a hotel feeling like a drowned rat. The receptionist laughed at me. She said I needed a shower more than a room. I said I’ll take them both but give me the room first. After a shower and a time to relax I went out for a meal at a nearby restaurant. I must have picked a good one as there were many local people in there and I was fortunate to get a table. Later back to the hotel, bought a beer to take back and sat to plan tomorrow’s adventure.
Monday 11th May 2015 Litohoro (Mount Olympus) to Thessaloniki Airport
I drove to Serras in dry weather, avoiding Thessaloniki by taking the motorway but for once there was no toll. I took the country road after Thessaloniki to Serras but before I reached there it started raining again. It took me two hours to bike in cooler conditions in a rain shower to Lailas Ski Centre BIG 909. Head down most of the way band can’t say I enjoyed it but really wanted to complete my climb of the Greek BIG’s and wasn’t coming back again just to cycle this one! I started at 9.00 and reached the top at 11.00 and rested in a café for a while at the top before an hour return to Serres and the car. from there I really wanted to cycle at least one Bulgarian climb and as Rozen Manastir BIG 940 was only 35km from the border and wasn’t allowed to take the car over the frontier I left it parked in a hotel car park in Promahonas with permission and cycled the short distance on a fairly good road on the Sofia highway then took a right for Melnik then 7km north to the white rocks at Rozen. The monastery itself is a final steep section of less than a kilometre up from Rozen village. From there back the way I came and collected the car and made a dash to the airport in the hope of getting an earlier flight home as it wouldn’t be practical to go deeper into Bulgaria without car back up.
Tuesday 12th May Thessaloniki Airport – home
Aegean Airways flight home fare £83.02 and bike was £39.71 (55€), total £122.73
Depart Thessaloniki 06.40, arrive Athens Int. Venizelos 07.30, flight A3 101 Depart Athens Int. Venizelos 09.15, arrive Heathrow 11.15, flight A3 600 Aegean Airways. Train Heathrow to Paddington then bus to Euston. Train from Euston to Crewe and Crewe to Holmes Chapel