Wednesday 13th July 2016 Holmes Chapel to Krakow
Hire car kilometre start at Krakow airport 2770km. Holmes Chapel 14.31, Crewe at 14.45. From Crewe 14.57 to Liverpool South Parkway 15.30 then bus to the airport. Flight departure 18.25.
Thursday 14th July 2016 Krakow to Sanok, Poland
09.00 – 12.00 Krakow Airport to Kielce, 12.00 to 13.00 to Gorno, 13.00 – 13.45 to Swiety Krzyz (Holy Cross)
Swiety Krzyz BIG 953. Car left at Huta Nowy, car park on the right. Steep 10% climb for 400 metres then gradual, over crossroads then a right turn later with the radio tower in sight in the trees. Past a camp site then through a wooden archway into woods then to the tower and beyond the Catholic Holy Cross Church. Didn’t go in the church – not allowed as inappropriately dressed in cycle shorts. Beyond the church is a small tower and to the left a view over the countryside. From the wooden archway to the church a horse and carriage takes people along the route.
14.00 to 14.35 to Gorno, 14.35 to 19.00, 371km to Sanok – 230 miles.to Sanok and stayed overnight there at Hotel Pod Trzema Rozami at 120 zloty £30.30 with breakfast. Evening meal of spaghetti Bolognese 12 zloty – £2.40, ice cream, 9 zloty £1.80 and small water 3 zloty - £0.60. Total £4.80
Friday 15th July 2016 Sanok to Kosice, Slovakia
Drove from Sanok to Solina for the first climb, first ½ tank of diesel 35€ or £30.
Jawor BIG 954. Left the car in front of a shop at Sanok at 09.45 near the start of the road from Solina to Jawor and took a left up the road indicated as WZW Jawor 8km, however the top of the climb is only 5km. down the other side the road goes down through the trees to the WZW – waterworks. There is no marker at the top of the climb however at the top of the climb to the left in the trees is a white / red tower of girder construction. I freewheeled down the other side, being only 3km, steeply at first, with a view of the lake partly visible but obscured by the trees. From Solina to Wetlina, arriving at 13.10
Przelecz Wysna BIG 955. Wetlina to the top took me half an hour then down the other side at 13.45 and returned to Wetlina at 14.45. I had left the car there at a roadside parking area in front of a pub and shop on the left. It was good to have distance indicators on the road painted on the side at 100 metre intervals to the 92.1 indicator at the top. There’s a path at the top of the pass to the mountain. Back down to the car and the shop I bought a Magnum ice cream, 52 zloty - £0.95 From Wetlina to Herlianska Sedlo climb at Herlany at 15.00. on the way
I stopped to admire green painted steam trains at Majdan on a private railway line.
Herlianska Sedlo BIG 966. When I arrived I looked for a place in the village to sleep later. I toyed with the idea of sleeping in the car at the large car park in the village – and could even buy pizza from the small store there. It was getting a bit late in the day so hopefully I’ll be able to reach the top of the climb and return before dark. I started at 19.10 from Herlay and reached the top at 19.50 then took the road off to the right at the top of the main road and official top of the BIG and cycled on a further 4km to the red and white striped tower at higher up at 880 metres, arriving there at 20.30 as dusk was approaching. On the way are two 12% climb. There were terrific winds up here, a sign of bad weather the following day. The lower part of the climb on the main road was through dense woods and the road in bad condition with pot holes.
On the upper section to the tower the road is in better condition. I had to be careful when I freewheeled back down to Herlany in the tree cover as it was now getting dark and had to avoid the potholes. I was back at 21.00 just as darkness fell. I drove on to Kosice to just west of the city at Sever and found accommodation alongside the main road at the foot of tomorrow’s climb. Pension Baranok was 45€ - £37 with breakfast. It’s called Restaurant Penzion Baranok.
Saturday 16th July 2016 Kosice to Miskolc, Hungary
Car kilometre start at 3462.
Kojsovska Hol’a BIG 965. I left the car at the hotel and cycled the rough road along the side road from Sever at 07.30 after muesli with yoghurt, / omelettes and three coffees breakfast at the hotel to Kojsovska Hol’a BIG 965 in 1.1/2 hours then returned. At 08.50 I was driving out heading north and parked up at Pracovce to look for the north west route to the top among the old communist housing blocks but couldn’t find it. Eventually I found out from locals that I had to go back to the next village. Perlova to the east. Eventually up from here and later to the right then up to the top on the left. There’s no marker up here but there is a squat building topped by a sphere. Back down from here I headed for my next climb, setting the sat-nav for Sumiac and arrived at 11.30, a 1.1/2 hours drive.
Kralo’va Hol’a BIG 964. 13.00 start and return at 16.45. I experienced severe weather – a blizzard. Reaching the top was extremely difficult and I wasn’t prepared for it except for rainwear but it was also cold and only had my cycle mitts. At the top it was thick pea soup mist and range of vision was only a few yards. Lower down the road surface was better from 1400 metres and the sedlo. The lower section is through woods then the sedlo was reached with one lone building and a height marker then it was a rough pot-holed road to the top.
Sedlo Brezina BIG 963. 18.00 – 19.00, parking at Hnusta in front of a supermarket – Tesco no less it only took me 20 minutes to reach the top on a good surface road. From there 10 minutes down the other side, back up and over. On the Hnusta side there are only two distance indicator markers. From Hnusta at 1km there is a 96km marker then 2km further up is a 98km marker. There are indicators painted on the road at 500metre and 200 metre from the top. There is only a walker’s sign at the top indicating the top of Sedlo Brezina.
No accommodation available at Szalonna near the next morning’s climb so had to drive south to next town, Miskolc. Overnight at 3star Pallonia Hotel, 18509 forint, £49 with breakfast. Had a meal across the road. Steak and chips 2490 forint, light beer 620 and cheesecake 890 - £11.50. Bed at 23.30 after phoning Ruth. Second ½ fill of diesel today at £29
Sunday 17th July 2016 Miskolc to Satu Mare, Romania
Car kilometre start at 3770. Ham and eggs for breakfast at the hotel. It was raining hard at Miskolc first thing. The hotel receptionist told me of alternative visits then cycle in the afternoon. There were large caves nearby of interest. I decided not to but instead to drive back north to Szalonna and to Maronyi village nearby where the climb started. On the way the rain stopped.
Szar-Hegy BIG 967. I had some difficulty locating the start of the climb. I asked around, one girl phoned up a friend and handed me her mobile. The girl on the other end spoke English and directed me. I was to go to the left with the white church in Martonyi behind me and after 200 metres at the village entrance sign take a right turn here. Sure enough this was the road as I could see it before me heading off up to the mountain. I started off at 09.50 and reached the top at 11.15. The first part of the road is in open country for a kilometre and I could see Martonyi down to my right as I ascended. A right turn further up then a left where I entered the forest. This continues to the top. Halfway up I stopped to put on rainwear, the rain continued until I returned to the car parked in front of the church in Martonyi. The way up is progressively steeper to a very steep rise to the right then to the metal gate and tower at the top of the road and took the usual photos. I was fortunate as the rain went off for a while and then only showery until halfway down but then came on heavy. It was difficult to brake on
the way down as the road was very wet and steep. I need disc brakes for these sort of conditions.
I set the sat-nav to the shortest route from Martonyi to Tokaj. That was a mistake as I was guided along narrow lanes and took too long through Rakaka, Baktakek, Encs and Tallya. It would have been better to return to Miskolc and stick to the main roads. I also made the mistake of passing through Tarcal to Tokaj but it was worth a visit. So back along the same road to Tarcal for the next climb
Tokaji-Hegy BIG 968. There was some difficulty finding the correct road out of Tarcal to start the climb. I found a map of the road up on a board at the foot of the climb, the road here is Szolohegy Uhta, up here a short way then a turn to the right then left and continue up and soon away from the town into a narrow road lined with high hedges. It’s useful having the one to five kilometre markings painted in white on the right hand side of the road – and it was also good to be able to cycle the whole way and return in dry weather for once. The road is steeper towards the top where there is a final right hand bend to the dusty car park and radio mast at the top. Much of the way the road is pot holed so had to be careful on the way down not to puncture however it is asphalt all the way. There’s a good view across the countryside around. I started at 15.00 and reached the top at 16.40, returning at 16.45 and back at the car at 17.50 just south of the town where I could park.
No sooner had I placed the bike back in the car and ready to go that it started pouring down again, how good is that? Thick clouds were also obscuring the mast that I saw above the trees so I was fortunate to cycle at the right time. I now set the sat-nav for the quickest route to Baia Mare in Romania via Nyiregyhhaza and Mate-Szalka to the border at Petea. I needn’t have rushed as the border control was slow progress. I thought that now both Hungary and Romania are in the EC that it would only have been a formality. I had to shorten the journey at Satu Mare and found a hotel, Hotel Cardinal £20.50 with breakfast, short walk from the city centre. I thought it best to obtain Romanian Leu so drew £195 worth from an ATM. I tried to find a restaurant but at 21.30 they had all closed so had to be content with a take-away kebab for 16 leu - £2.70. Phoned Ruth who told me that Mark was entertaining his sister Sophie who was visiting and they went to Hannah’s for a barbecue. It was very warm
at home in complete contrast to where I was.
Monday 18th July 2016 Satu Mare to Arad, Romania
Car kilometre start at 4090. A little rain to start with but cleared when I reached the foot of the climb at Baia Sprie at 12km from the town as from Baia Mare it’s housing and shops and lack of parking. At the village I found a large parking area to the right.
Pasul Gutai BIG 981. Started at 11.00, reaching the top at 12.20. An interesting road of hairpins and tree covered all of the way from the village. There’s a height marker at the top. I needed to go somewhere and saw the simple restaurant to the left as I reached the top. There was one table of old customers playing cards (could have been my age!) The totally fed up owner said there was no electric so had to be very careful in the small room with the door open – with the old men looking in! back down the same way at 12.45 and returned to the car at 13.10.
I now had a long drive from north to the west of the country at Arad, however it’s a good smooth road from Satu Mare where I got lost around the streets - should have re-set the sat- nav to a point further on from the city. I lost a bit of time there and also the roads from Baia Mare to the city and in the city were extremely busy. Through Oradea took a left for Livada just before Arad. Passing through here and taking a left I reached Sirea along a bumpy narrow road.
Monastirea Feredeu BIG 982. From the west and taking a right in Sirea I reached the foot of the next BIG just south of the village where there’s a left hand turn with a brown sign indicating Monastirea Feredeu. I parked the car between Sirea and the left hand turn at a small car park on the left. The monastery is a kilometre down from the top marked by the 12th station of the cross. I could understand if devout catholics were to walk the stations to the top it would be a tough walk as there are some steep sections. Between stations 8 and 9 and 10 and 11 the gradient is approx 25%. Gradient from the 4th station up and between 9and 10 it’s approx 20%. From the foot to station 4 it’s a warm up however just after the lower monastery at 1.5km from the start there is a sudden rise round a right hand bend. The first couple of kilometres from Sirea are easy. The second 25% rise between stations 10 and 11 have stone slabs lining either side of the road through a cutting. It took me from 19.15 to 20.00 to reach the top and 15 minutes down at 20.30, just before dark. On the way down I could take some glorious sunset photos across the countryside. The climb was done in dry weather but it started raining again as soon as I slid the bike back into the car. I rang Ruth and told her I was in Sirea – I was kidnapped!
I drove back through Sirea and Livada back to the main road just north of Arad and passed through the city looking for accommodation. I couldn’t find any so decided to drive on a while heading east for my next climb in the morning. Four kilometres out from Arad on the Deva road I found Hotel Casa Verde on the right in Vladimirescu at 100 leu upfront, and had to pay in cash (£18.60) and had beef soup 14 leu and beer 6 leu (£3.70). £0.90 for a good beer isn’t bad! One BIG, one cheap beer.
Tuesday 19th July 2016 Arad to Fagaras, Romania
Leaving early – 07.30, no breakfast just a couple of coffees at the counter I drove east for Brasov, 413km or 258 miles. That’s a huge distance that I’d never consider back home but then the cost of diesel here is cheap – about £0.80 a litre. Romania is a big country and it’s BIG’s I’m after. It took me six hours to reach Sinaia south of Brasov and was getting fed up with driving. I wanted to be on the bike. I bought a second half tank fill of diesel at Rasnov, 200 leu - £37.36. Sinaia is a spa and ski resort and there were many tourists.
Cabana Piatra Arsa (Transbucegi) BIG 985. This climb is huge! Passing through the busy town and had
some difficulty finding the foot of the climb south of Sinaia. After searching I found the only road heading up the mountain was indicated as the road to Targovista but that’s to the south of where I wanted to be. After 7km of pot-holed road through a cover of trees I reached Judetul Dambovita but could see a long downhill after that. This can’t be the way. I turned back and took a left indicated as several Cabanas on road 713. I risked it as there was no other road. A kilometre further on there’s an indication for Cabana Arsa in front of the first cabana on the right. I thought this wouldn’t be too difficult as I passed another one further along but how wrong I was! There were plenty of cyclists hurtling down this road so thought it was getting warm. I soon found out though as I approached an upper valley where the view opened out that Cabana Arsa was still a long way off, across the open country I could see the hotel perched on the mountainside with a chairlift structure nearby. There were still a few kilometres to go across open country among fabulous scenery but it spurred me on seeing the end in view at one I think is one of the highest hotels in Europe? It took me 4 hours to reach the top and an hour down and all I was capable of achieving today.
I was hoping to reach Sibiu tonight to stay at the same hotel we stayed at a couple of years ago but had to be contented with reaching Fagaras 88km, 55 miles away and stay for a second time at Hotel Bulevard in the town centre by the huge church. Last time here there was a carnival in full swing but it was quiet tonight. I had a pizza, 16 leu, 2 beers, 5.50 x 2 leu, and banana split, 10 leu at the hotel in the courtyard for 37 leu - £8. Accommodation 140 leu or 32€ - £26
Wednesday 20th July 2016 Fagaras to Slatina-Timis, Romania
Pasul Urdele BIG 984. If yesterday was a huge pass I was in for bigger challenge today. Pasul Urdele is the highest of the new eastern European climbs has selected for inclusion. It’s over 200 metres and I was apprehensive. Leaving the hotel at 08.00 after a large breakfast, the best yet, I was even more apprehensive when I drove in torrential rain to Petrosani, however the rain subsided when I started the ride. From Petrosani the climb starts with the Exodus pub on the left and Banca Transilvania on the right at a roundabout then straight on. The road takes a turn to the left then goes down a short distance to follow a wide stream that leads alongside some waterfalls and passes through rock tunnels for 19km. When I was there roadworkings were taking place over a long distance. I came to a café near the 66km to Voineaia marker where a motorbike was perched on a tree trunk – the only vehicle I’d seen since I left the town. From near here the road abruptly turns right and heads up under a bridge. Because of the road workings the road to this point was extremely rough – mainly stony and was thinking I should have brought a mountain not a road bike on this trip. Going further up and back on asphalt where the road takes on an appearance to the Bonette in France towards the top as it skirts a final hump. It took 4 hours to reach the top, 09.30 to 13.30 and 1.1/2 hours back to Petrosani at 15.00.
Driving 140km, 87 miles took 2.½ hours from Petrosani, through Hateg and Caransebes to reach Slatina-Timis.
Semenic (Statiunea) BIG 983. Through the village to a river bridge, right then immediately left through the back part of the village and parked the car at a café just over the bridge on the right. It was nearly 17.00 and thought to have a bash at the next climb but with 32km – 20 miles – even if I kept to my average pace I wouldn’t reach the top until 20.00 with only an hour’s daylight after that. I risked it to see how far I could get. The first part is mainly up through woods until I reached a large wooden post on the left at the top of a climb before the road
descends to Brebu Nou village. I chatted to a Romanian here –he spoke English. I told him what I was planning to do and warned me that it was at least two hours from that point cycling – he knows, he’s done it. Along the way there are clear blue kilometre markers and 100 metre posts between. After Garana and the wood sculptures the road climbs to reach Pasul Prislop at 100 metres where the final 6.5 kilometres to Semenic branches off to the left. I took it but not hopeful now of reaching the top. Most of the way along here is cobbled road with some tarmac overlay. I rode the twists and turns through the woods and reached a clearing with a disused brick hut on the left. I could see ahead there was still some way to go but it didn’t seem to be steep. I decided to call it a day and return back down to Slatina. I didn’t relish the idea of cycling in the dark, no lights and under tree cover.
It was 20.00 and would be dark in an hour.
I knew there was no accommodation in Slatina. The only small hotel in the lower part of the village was closed. I returned back to Caransebes, walked the streets in the centre but again couldn’t find accommodation there so called at a kebab take-away for a burger, ate in the car then returned to Slatina to sleep in the car. I parked up at one point but there were dogs barking continually so drove into the lower part of the village and parked by the side of the road, cleared the passenger seat and reclined it as far back as possible, blindfold on and earplugs in and slept until morning.
Thursday 21st July 2016 Slatina-Timis to Pirot, Serbia
Waking at 06.30 with people walking past I drove up the road slowly still in half zombie sleep state and drove the road as far as the large post at the top of the first climb short of Brubu Nou to continue the climb at 07.30
Semenic (Statiunea) BIG 983 (continued) I cycled back to Prislop and the road junction for the final 6km to the end of the road just past the crumbling hotels. At the very end of the road there’s a turning circle in front of a rocky outcrop. There are some smaller buildings nearby. There’s a ski village at the top that’s seen better days. One of the large hotels has detereated to a near ruin. There’s one little café as all the few others were closed as it’s out of season. I bought two croissants and coffee 9 leu. The coffee was needed to wake me up. Where I left off yesterday evening I was only 3km from the top of the road so could have completed it. On the way back down there’s a large rusty wind turbine and chimney blotting the landscape. Soon I was back to the brick hut and into the trees for the descent to Brubu Nou then up 1km back to the car at the wooden post.
I set the sat-nav for Orsova on the loop of the Danube further south. I had some breakfast at a large café before Orsova then continued along the northern Danube bank to the bridge over the Danube where I crossed over into Serbia. A short way along in Serbia I changed the remaining Romanian notes for Serb dinar then followed the Danube then inland and over a rise cutting off section of land jutting out into the curve of the river. Back down again to a small Serb resort on the Danube bank.
Miroc BIG 991. This is the right turn for Brza Palanka where the road west begins to climb and left the car at this point. The yellow road sign indicates Miroc and Suvaja on road R104Over a river bridge then an immediate steep climb into the village then on to the open road that climbs away from the river. There are great view of the Danube a little higher up until tree cover. A few kilometres further the asphalt ends and the road becomes fine white gravel. Continuing on there are very few buildings. Not far from Miroc I reached a large covered crucifix in a field on the right just before the road takes a turn to the left and heads downward. Going on a further kilometre the road continues down so I turned back having reached the top. It took me 1.¾ hours from the Danube to the top, 12.30 to 14.15
From Brza Palanka it was a fairly long drive south through Zajecar to Knjazevac and a direct road over Cerova to Pirot. This direct road passes through gorge scenery, the road enclosed by white cliffs. A few kilometres from Pirot this road joins the road from Nis. There is a new motorway being built here and a one-way system in operation to enable construction to continue on the other road section. I arrived in Pirot at 17.00. I booked in at Hotel Gali and charged the equivalent of £17 for the accommodation with breakfast but it was a student type accommodation; noisy corridors, thin walls and no curtains – I’d never sleep. I asked for an upgrade and wanted a room as shown in their brochure. They apologised that I would have to pay more – turned out it was only approx. £5 and for that I had the best room in the hotel! Later I went for a meal at the main square; the only place to eat. It’s a very good pizzeria and I enjoyed pizza, beer and cheesecake all for £5.50. Pizza 350RSD, beer 150, water 90, cheesecake 190; total 780RSD) I slept well that night.
Friday 22nd July 2016 Pirot to Aytos, Bulgaria
Koprivstica – Zavojsko Jezero BIG 992. Leaving the car a kilometre out of the town at a grassy verge I unloaded the bike and started the morning’s climb and cycled on a continual up in open country with great views back to Pirot and the other directions. I didn’t find it particularly steep and was able to keep to a middle gear for much of the way, reaching the road junction in a clearing. To the left the way is to Brana, to the right to Paklestica.
I took the wrong turning! I should have gone to the left which would have taken me through Nisor to Koprivstica. Instead I took the right turn that climbs up through woods, down to a fountain on the left and eventually up to Dobri Do. I saw the fortress at Stara Planini and on to Rsovci where the road descends for the south part of the lake; Zavojsko. I didn’t go down to the lake but turned back. I think the way to the lake this way is longer than if I had taken the left turn at the road junction and passed through Nisor to Koprivstica.
Returning to the car, I had a quick look at Pirot Kale Fortress where I entered into the town yesterday from the north. Now I set off east for Bulgaria, my aim was to reach Sliven east of Sofia for the next climb. This was a huge distance just to cycle 20 miles so can’t only do one climb but include the other climb further east by the Black Sea to make the driving worth the distance. Because of the distance though my next climb would be enough for today. I drove 346km – 216 miles to reach Sliven. I also had to contend with 1.½ hours at the border checkpoint. From Pirot it was only one hour to the reach the Bulgarian border. I spent up my Serb coins and bought sandwiches and enough water and orange juice near the border to last for a day in Bulgaria as I had no intention of exchanging for Bulgarian leu as I would be back in Serbia the following day. Passing through Sofia streets without too much trouble from traffic congestion I followed the sat-nav instructions and was soon on the Burgas road and heading east, reaching Sliven in the mid afternoon.
Balgarka BIG 987. Leaving the car in a wide parking area north of Sliven I cycled past about 2km of industry, some of the buildings dilapidated. Soon I was in the woods and cycling towards Vratnik Pass which was a mistake as I should have taken the road for Rakova directly north and passed through Bayla after 3km on a good surface road. I passed a cyclist memorial on the left of the road. The final 3km to Vratnik is hairpins.
I took a photo with my bike before the mast at the top. The only consolation for my mistake is that Vratnik is further from Sliven than Balgarka. Just below Vratnik road summit I took a left by a white house. The road bends to the left and heads for Rakova along a well wooded road. Realising my mistake then made my way south from Rakova to Balgarka. At a road junction the mountain is to the west on my way south back to Sliven. It took me 3 hours to reach Sliven and two hours down.
By name it was late in the day and I headed south from Sliven to return to the motorway, the road from Sofia to Burgas. Reaching Burgos at 21.00 I looked around for a hotel as it would be interesting to see Burgas and walk the front to see something of the Black Sea. I couldn’t find anywhere. It was total darkness at the docks so I suppose I did see the black sea! I headed back out of the city and took the old road to Aytos to find accommodation. I asked a guy on the road through the village just closing his shop where I could find a hotel. He was very kind and suggested I follow him as he drove ahead and took me to Hotel Complex Slaveite ‘Nightingales’ on Ul Parkova. He booked me in at the reception. I wanted to buy him a drink but he wanted to get back quickly. The hotel was cheap enough at £17. I bought a couple of beers from the bar and took them to my room, phoned Ruth and went to sleep
Saturday 23rd July 2016 Aytos to Gjilane, Kosovo
There was some confusion at the hotel this morning as I thought I was getting breakfast – but then what can I expect for £17? I asked for coffee – given it and a bill for 100RSD - £0.67 – but I didn’t have Bulgarian money. I was chatting to an old Italian gentleman and explained my predicament. He gave the lady 100RSD for my coffee! He was from Bari and was visiting his son living in Aytos. From the hotel I made my way out of the town heading east again via country lanes on a sunny, warm morning and parked up at Gyulyovtsa village north of Burgas. I filled up with diesel, this time ¾ tank for £40 plus sandwiches, coffee and crisps for £5.
Dyulinski Prohod BIG 988. I wouldn’t make a mistake reaching the top of the road here. There’s only one road to the top. It was a pleasant ride in open country even though the road is pot-holed. There is nothing at the top, not even a building. There’s wide views across the open country bush land but I was disappointed not see the Black Sea from the top of the road. I started the climb at 09.25 and was at the top in 25 minutes. I rode down the other side to Panitsova and back up again.
I phoned Ruth before I set off again to say I’d reached the furthest out point and was on my way back west then north. I now had a long drive ahead of me to reach the Serbian border for the next climb; 502km – 320 miles – that’s twice the distance from home to London. It’s approx. the distance of the whole length of England from the south coast to the Scottish border. Leaving the area, I did catch glimpses of the Black Sea in the distance. On a sunny day it was shimmering light blue in the heat haze. The sat-nav took me south through Kableshkovo then to Balgarovo where I joined the motorway then drove at fast but safe speed back to Sofia with a couple of stops. In Sofia I found the road for Pernik then north west to the border at Strezimirovtsi. Just before the border I took a photo of fields of sunflowers and a. huge communist type statue called Slishovska Mound:
After September 9, 1944 in place of the belfry people's power built grand memorial and museum. It is claimed that even had an ossuary and kept the bones of about 300 Bulgarian soldiers and guerrillas. Today, this monument was abandoned to decay. In the preserved inscription with the names of those killed in battles traces of fire with high-calibre weapons
I expected some delay again returning to Serbia as I noticed when I entered Bulgaria there was a long line of cars at that checkpoint, motorists waiting to return to Serbia. I was pleasantly surprised and relieved to be the only vehicle at this quieter smaller checkpoint. I had a 10 minute wait for my passport return, wondering what the police were doing but there was no problem. I was beckoned forward and curtly handed the passport.
Vlasina Lake or Vlasinsko Jezero BIG 993. From the border it’s only a slight rise to Klisura village, an
interesting place of old white buildings with red roofs. I left the car just beyond the village on a grassy area under the trees. It’s well wooded here up to a clearing and entering Vlasina Okruglica with the lake on the left. I continued on some distance where the road hugs the lake 1.½ hours from Klisura (16.30 – 18.00). I bought some bananas from a shop on the left set back from the road. Abruptly down then up again quite a way to the highest point still alongside the lake, but only a little higher than my first stop. It took me two hours and about ¾ hour return to Klisura. I took photos of the lake. The road on the other side of the lake heading west is far more scenic. There are hairpins and a gorge in the lower section with hydroelectric workings. Through Surdilica to the foot at Vladicin Han.
From here I wanted to reach Gjilane, second town in Kosovo as there are two climbs in the small country surrounded by mountains. In Vladicin Han I was confused with the road system and the sat-nav couldn’t help as there is a new flyover here that’s not on the sat-nav database. I asked a taxi driver who guided me on to the flyover. Later at Bujanovac there was a delay owing to a traffic accident. One driver was so distraught. The car was his pride and possession. The distance from Klisura is 125km or 78 miles. I reckoned on two hours to reach there, 19.00 to 21.00 and look for a hotel. It wasn’t to be as I had a long wait; there was a great number of cars; motorists waiting patiently to pass the checkpoint into Kosovo. Everybody was so friendly and patient as perhaps they must experience this often. In contrast though there were a few motorists, mainly not Yugoslav, who drove on the left and at quick speed to pass the long queue and reach the border. As I got closer I could hear the shouts of annoyance from others who had waited patiently for an hour as the risk takers pushed into the queue
at the head of the line. I got out of the car to stretch my legs a few times, as did others. In fact, many people were just walking the road and their drivers pick them up further down the line. I was on the phone with Ruth to pass the time. Eventually I reached the border and had to pay 15€ insurance as Kosovo, being a new and disputed country, doesn’t have an international green card agreement with the rest of Europe. It was getting late now. I tried Kmetovce for accommodation but it was too noisy. At last I entered Gnjilane and liked the place. At first I took a right turn in the town following other traffic but then found out that they were going to a night club! I had some difficulty trying to reverse out and had to ask others to be patient and more motorists were coming in. This called on good driving skills as I reversed out through two lines of cars. Back on the road I parked up illegally and walked quickly to find a hotel. Again asking around I found Hotel Kristal, rushed back to the car and was guided into a space there by one of the attendants. It was 22.30 and I needed a room and something to eat. I booked in at the hotel and was given a really nice room with tea and coffee making facilities
and a large bed for £33 with breakfast included so couldn’t complain. I was relieved to be here – would have paid more. I showered and relaxed outside at the front of the hotel and enjoyed spaghetti carbonara and a large beer for 4.50€. I phoned Ruth and went to sleep, happy with my day.
Sunday 24th July 2016 Gjilane to Dubrovnik, Croatia
I was woken up by a loud bang on the door and a foreign voice - somebody banged on the wrong door.
It was good though as I hadn’t set my alarm. It was 07.00 and I walked down to a really sumptuous breakfast with plenty of bananas, peaches and apples to stuff into my bike shirt for today. I was out at 08.30
Zhegoc BIG 994. Start at Kambec ‘PTL STN’ (yellow sign) Leaving the Gnijane to Pristina road 25-2 the
waypoint to the left at Bresaic is for Grdime and Lipjam road R209 then take the right fork 50 metres along indicating Zigovac. The road steadily rises, dips a little then a long steep rise to the woods. Just beyond it is the Kosovo memorial that marks the top. There is a track to the right of this but rises only slightly to an open field. It took me from 0900 to 10.00to reach the top and 15 minutes down.
Back through Gnjilane then took the road to the right of Kristal Hotel for Pozaranje and Urosevac then south to the right turn for Doganovic R115. A few kilometres further a right turn for Prizen. The left fork is for Tetovo. Downhill from after the junction then steadily up. I passed an interesting memorial to fallen Kosovo soldiers past here. I parked up by a well on the right in Brezovice then started cycling the next climb.
Prevalla Ski Centre BIG 995. The road rises steadily Kosovo peace keeping force were in evidence at the top of the pass. There were far too many people there, too many cars and with it too much rubbish. Part of the road at the top had swaives of rubbish covering the road. There were many stalls up there with people selling honey, alcohol and souvineers – though I did buy an ice cream! It took me 1.½ hours to reach the ski centre.
The road is mainly through woods. On the final approach a line of buildings can be seen on the ridge before the final bend to the left to the front of these buildings that line the top of the road on the right. There’s a pub on the left, best place for a celebratory beer. Further along on the left the view to the mountains of Sar Planina beyond open up. It’s a pleasant green area to relax and view the mountains. The ski chairlifts are to the left.
Although I drove down the other side it would have been better to cycle up this way as it’s more scenic. There are hydro-electric workings near Prizen but a little higher up the road passes through a gorge of sheer white cliffs where the road and river squeeze through.
Going back down the mountain to the car I bundled the bike into the car and drove back up to Prevalla and over the other side to Prizen and took a left to reach the Albanian border. Although I expected a delay here I was the only car and passed through in minutes. Passing through the northern part of Albania the scenery is really good.
In the Kukes area there are wide views across the river valley from high up. After passing over Shilakut
the road descends and eventually reaches Shkoder with Rozafa Castle perched on the hill that can be seen from a few miles before it. Once there it was over the river bridge then left and followed the narrow twisting road that led to the Montenegro border. There was some delay here as plenty of motorists were passing through. There were small Arabic children milling around knocking on the car windows begging for money. They were in groups with their parents who sat around encouraging them. On the other hand the local police were busy discouraging them and continually moving them away from the queue of cars but minutes later they were back again; a continual battle. I kept my window shut. When it was my turn at the customs window the guy at the window waved a burger at me and said he would be a few minutes – he was half an hour and I was getting impatient while he finished his burger and drink. Others behind me were becoming impatient too and started blaring their horns which he totally ignored. Eventually I was through and passed the Montenegro customs with a “Welcome to Montenegro”. I filled up with diesel near Krute. There wasn’t much daylight remaining and I rushed to cross over to Dobra Voda on the narrow road. It was dark now, I was blinded by a 4 x 4 driver coming towards me on the narrow lane at full beam so I angrily beamed him back. He stopped his vehicle to give me a mouthful in Serbo-Croat. I’m glad I didn’t understand him! Reaching Bar I continued on along the coast heading for Dubrovnik, my goal for the night. It was stop/start in the Budva area with much traffic and buses to contend with and it was getting late. I arrived at the Lepetane / Kamenari ferry over Kotor Bay for the crossing. I was confused at first in the dark as the sat-nav indicated that I should turn left but that would take me into the water. I paid 5€ which was well worth it as it saved a good hour skirting around the bay. More traffic hold-ups around Herceg Novi but soon away from the coast and the bright lights into complete contrast of darkness towards the Croatian border. I was soon through here and along to the coast again at Cilipi and drove the top road looking for the exit of the Cavtat road coming up from Dubrovnik as I knew from my last time here that I could park in the viewpoint lay-by, turn the car around and sleep. This is a one-way road so had to be
careful reversing the car into position with traffic coming up the hill from the city. Once in place I moved the rucksack to the driver seat, put on extra clothing, stuffed earplugs in cut out the light with a blindfold then snuggled up for the night at midnight.
Monday 25th July 2016 Dubrovnik to Bjelepolje, Croatia
Dubrovnik is such an interesting and memorable place to leave too quickly. This is my fourth visit now and I wanted to explore again. I was awake at 06.30 with the warmth and the sun belting through the car window. I unloaded the bike from the car and glided down the one way-road against the flow but there were only a few cars heading up. Entering into the walled city at Revelin I changed some money at an ATM on Stradun then went for a baguette and coffee outside Revelin Gate and sat watching the harbour activity. Later I wandered down Stradun and had breakfast outside Pile Gate. Back to the harbour for a while and said goodbye to the capstan where emotions took over when I left after the first visit. Back up the hill and had a large coffee at the Biker’s Café then back up Petra Kresimira to the car. At 10.30 I was on my way north heading for Split. I parked at the huge bridge span just north of Dubrovnik at Zaton to take in the huge ships anchored at Pile harbour north of the city. From here to Stano where I bought some fig honey and a bottle of fig spirit then joined the motorway at Ploce for Split. I stopped once at a rest area at Rašćane Gornje, a deep valley from the motorway service stop
south of Split. On to Split but passed through as I wanted to head for Kastel Stari to the west and my only climb of the day. I had driven 244km and took 5 hours to reach here from Dubrovnik.
Malacka BIG 959. Starting at 15.00, I left the car between the main Split-Zadar road and the coast on a gravel car park and took the first right, Put Banavin Jelacila and continued straight across the road on Zagorski Put heading for Malacka. The main road here was undergoing road maintenance and there was a lack of signage.8 Asking the way I was directed on up; I was on the correct road. The road veers right in front of a church then left over a level crossing and past Kastel Stari railway station on to Radun. From here the way was obvious. It’s a series of hairpins to the top with a final stretch with the cross before me. It’s a bit like the stations of the cross again but this time it’s one huge cross at the highest point. The final 500 metres on pave are steep at 25%. It’s lined both sides by memorial stones for Croatian soldiers and citizens killed in the Yugoslav civil war. I asked a local family up there to take my photo then I took some of the surrounding countryside with Split beyond.
I reached the top in 1.¼ hours and returned to the car at 17.20.
Setting the sat-nav for Bihac I drove via Prapatnica on to the motorway, 9.60€ toll, then road 52 at Lesce towards Bihac and found Fortuna Guest House in Bjelepolje before Korenica, arriving at 19.00 and just short of the Bosnian border. This was a good place to stay at 180 kuna - £22 and a good evening meal, soup and spaghetti bolognese and 2 beers for £10.
Tuesday 26th July 2016 Bjelepolje to Novo Mesto, Slovenia
Car kilometre start at 8270km. Omelette for breakfast and away at 08.15 heading for Bihac. I entered Bosnia without a hitch. There was no traffic at the large covered customs area at Strmica then followed a river and railway through a long narrow wooded valley from Bosanska Krupa to Bosanski Novi-Novi Grad. The road criss-crosses the railway many times on boards so it’s not possible to get up any speed. At Otaka midway the road crosses the river at a picturesque location. I filled up with diesel. At Novi Grad the road crosses the river bridge and enters Croatia. From here it’s only a few kilometres to the start of the next climb at Komora.
Vratnik Zrinska Gora BIG 960. Cycle climb from Komora at 11.15 just after a terrific storm but it passed over shortly before I started and reached the top at 12.00.
The way up is wooded lower down, passing a church in Dongy Zirovac then into a clearing after two sections of .large gravel stones that make it hard on a road bike, but this was only for a short distance. The top of the road is nothing spectacular but there is a road summit marker for both directions. On the road are warning signs – ‘ostocea kolnik (roadway)’ the road is indicated as a bike route, number SMZ1.
Back to the car and I drive over the pass to Glina and take a left for Karlovac then enter on to the motorway that heads north east, skirts under Zagreb dominated by Sljeme mountain then west to enter Slovenia at Bregana/Samobar checkpoint. This was only a formality. I stayed on the motorway, experienced another terrific storm but it soon cleared up. I took a left to enter a narrow road eventually that led to Velike Brusnice, the foot of my next climb.
Trdinov Vrh BIG 980. This one took ages! A real challenge, 16.00 to 18.30 to reach the top. The return trip at 18.45 and arriving back at 19.30. Leaving the car at Velike Brusnice at a small car park at the crossroads I continued on with the church on the left and entered Gabrje 4km along a tree lined route with only a slight rise. When I reached the village I asked a couple how to get to the mountain. The man told me to follow them and they drove in front of me and I cycled behind to join the road that I should have taken just before entering the village. He told me to continue up here until I reach the sand then continue up. He was right, it was asphalt for about 2km then a sandy, gravel surface the rest of the way up under the trees. There was no view which I found disorientating. About 10km further I came to a road junction in the woods and wasn’t sure which way to go so took the left fork which led upwards rather than the right fork going downhill. The left fork led to an upper valley where people were camping and caravanning. There’s a simple café off the road to the left. I looked backwards and could see the red / white radio mast jutting up from the trees.
That’s where I need to be – that’s the top. Back to the junction and took the downhill this time and 500 metres along the road to the left is indicated as Trdinov Vrh. The final 4km is steeper and the tower ahead is teasing as you go around the top of the mountain clockwise and steep before reaching it. Finally a right turn and 200 metres later at the top shared with Kapelle Svete Jere and Kapelle Ilias twin chapels, picnic tables and the huge red and white radio mast mark the top. There is a small café but closed today.
The original plan was to climb Korte today near the coast but it was better to cycle the much larger Trdinov Vrh as I had the time to do it and was nearer. Returning to the car I drove to Novo Mesto (Newtown) and found Hotel Pri Belokranjcu to the east of the town. This was £48 with breakfast and evening meal. I sat outside and enjoyed pasta and beer in the balmy night air, so relaxing. I had trouble with the shower that evening but a maid was sent up promptly to sort it out. I phoned Ruth, sorted out my rucksack and slept at 23.00
Wednesday 27th July 2016 Novo Mesto to Keszlethy, Hungary
Car kilometre start at 8592. After a good breakfast I took the road 419 to Straza, then road 917 to Kocevje and on to Stalcerji, last was road 106 to Kocevska Reka where I parked up in a small parking area by the church. 64km, one hour
Strma Reber BIG 979. Starting at 10.15 and arrived at the top at 11.30, 11.45 to 12.10 back down to
Kocevska Reka. From the car park next to the church and along the road through the Kocevska Reka village to a junction and turned left for Osilnica and Borovec, downhill approx. 800 metres to a metal barred river bridge then the climb to Strma Reber starts through the woods to Borovec 3km away in a clearing then for the final 6km a little steeper up through the woods to the top of the road indicated by blue metal height marker plates on both sides of the road, no view. I went down the other side of the climb a little way as there were a lot of people gathered. I found out that there was a motorbike race happening and was told I could carry on down but that would be risky with a race in full swing and the bikers heading up the road. I turned back and headed back the way I came. It was now a long drive from Kocevska Reka to Padna on the Koper to Gragonja road for the short but steep climb to Korte village on the small stretch of Slovenian coast south of Trieste. The /sat-nav indicated 2 hours 25 minutes over 144km. I arrived at 15.00 via Ribnica, Cerknica, Kozina and Koper.
Korte BIG 978. I parked up just off the E751 road below Padna on the Korte road at a grassy area to the left of the road and turned the car round for ease of exit later. The short 6km ride is easy at first until crossing a stream then six sharp hairpins to reach Korte village, an old village and narrow streets. From here across the valley I could see Padna village also perched on a hillside reached from a steep road on the other side of the main road.
A final left turn into the village where there was absolutely nothing happening, there wasn’t a soul around. They must have seen me coming. I wandered through and came to the highest point in at an orchard higher up beyond the church and houses, just for the view – and some free grapes then returned back down to the car the same way.
I now had a 470km drive to Lake Balaton. I was hoping to reach Tihany at a decent time before the end of the day however Keszethely on the western tip of Lake Balaton was enough for today and arrived there far too late at 22.00 after a four and half hour drive. I made a few stops at motorway service areas and there were terrific storms on the way. I tried one hotel but it was full but was directed to their sister hotel and eventually found it in a maze of streets. Loft roof room with Velux window at Admiral Hotel, Keszlethy, Lake Balaton £42. It was too late to eat so bought two bottled beers and ate fruit and biscuits from the rucksack and to sleep at midnight.
Thursday 28th July 2016 Keszlethy to Bratislava, Slovakia
Car kilometre start at 9218. Leaving at 08.45 after breakfast in their annex shared with too many people with kids, I drove along Lake Balaton for 60km to Tihany. The weather wasn’t brilliant but it dried up later – in fact sunny and warm. I filled up with diesel on the way.
Tihany Apastag BIG 970. I left the car in hedged off area near the junction of the main road on the left. There’s a tarmac cyclepath on the right of the main road into Tihany. I followed the cycle route which avoids the road into the village. I entered the tourist village by the church – Apastag. From there I saw radio masts on a hill beyond and headed for them along a track to the right but it’s not possible to reach them except by walking so went back to the church and the viewpoint at a long wall on the left of the church overlooking the lake.
Ruth and I have been here when we visited Lake Balaton but then there were hardly any tourists and I remember it was a very dull day when we were here. From the road there is cobbled steep path leading up to the church and the viewpoint. I took some photos then cycled back to the car and then on to Balatonfuhred.
The whole morning was spent around Lake Balaton as I wanted to explore Balatonfuhred later.
This where Ruth and I had a few days approx. 20 years ago and wanted to see how much the place had changed – it has greatly. When we went we had to collect a key from a lone kiosk along the waterfront that gave us access to an apartment room in an old communist housing block. This was then the only building of any size along the waterfront as it was then just open fields. I remember where we sunbathed on the front, then just a grassy knoll. How the place has changed. Now it’s a long line of tourist shops and a modern yacht harbour. I had left the car in front of a Tesco supermarket and biked along the front.
Driving via Veszprem (by-pass – unlike years ago when our coach went through the busy town), I had a detour to Somloszollos hill that stands on its own in a wide flat country area to the right of the road (north) crowned with a cross The road circles the hill to the top and had an hour cycling this hill then continued on through Janoshaza, Sarvar and Szombathely to Koszeg, 170km, 2.1/2 hours driving and one cycling and arriving at Koszeg at 14.00
Hormann-Forras BIG 969. In Koszeg I parked in front of Geszteenye shop where there’s plenty of parking at the small square then took the road to the right for Szabohegy and Foter that leads gradually to the climb on the edge of the town. The road continues on to reach a wooded area then a turn to the right where the road becomes rough after a kilometre but is asphalt all the way – just pock marked with pot-holes. The first 4km are shallow hairpins on a patched up road through the woods. After that the turn to the left is indicated as a better road but to the right it’s more direct. I took the left turn and continued on for 10km to the top via Velem to the south. The road continues on in a clockwise direction, at a road junction to the left then reaches the top from the right. I could have taken the right turn after the hairpins and reached the top quicker. I came back down that way. It’s a more narrow road and steeper. The top has a small radio mast on one side and a car park with picnic benches on the other.
Driving on from Koszeg heading for Bratislava I was surprised to be crossing the border into Austria. I passed the substantial concrete tower by the side of the road that was the old border post from which no one from the east could enter Austria without good authority, now it standing useless by the side of the road while traffic careered on past - as I did, oblivious of the border point. I was now in Austria through Mannersdorf and Oberpullendorf on to the autobahn past Mattersburg, Eisenstadt and Bruck to the border a few miles from Bratislava. I stopped just before the border at a retail park and ate at MacDonalds then crossed over into Slovakia. In the city I found the road north for Brno and could see Kamzik radio tower in front so headed for it. From Koszeg to Bratislava 141km in 2 hours, 17.30 to 19.30. I attempted to look for accommodation but couldn’t find anywhere so parked up for the night part way up the road Cestamladeze at Zelezna Studnicka and slept the night in the car on Bratislava mountain. Before sleeping I phoned Ruth and also Francois who was busy knocking off BIG’s in Sweden. I went to sleep at 09.30 and slept through until 06.00.
Friday 29th July 2016 Bratislava to Ostravice, Czech Republic
I drove down to the car park at the bottom of the road at 06.30, near the railway bridge and left the car there. I then cycled back up the same road thinking that this was the road that led to Kamzik. How wrong I was!
Kamzik Television Tower BIG 961. I became hopelessly lost on this climb. From the car park at the foot of the Cestamladeze road I cycled up to Zelezna Studnicka Upper Mlynská dolina - (The Iron Well) 4km and continued along this road for another 3km then took a track 5.9km to the television tower across a rough track over tree roots and undergrowth – on a road bike – and only came a cropper once. The route was only meant to be 3.9km but my route was 16km. I approached Kamzik tower from behind. From the tower after the obligatory photos I followed the road down, very curious as to where it would lead me and partly expecting it to meet Cestamladeze road at an un-noticed road junction. I was surprised to find it brought me back down to the Brno road nearer to Bratislava city centre. I then cycled the main road approx. 3km and saw the large Seimans office block on the left and the road to Zelezna Studnicka opposite and back to the car under the railway bridge. Runners and cyclists were emerging as I approached and knew this was the road where I parked. It was all down to assumption last night seeing all the sport activity and jumping to the conclusion that this was the way to the top of the mountain. Still, it was a nice ride, except for the track through the undergrowth.
That was a challenge!
From Bratislava and south away from Kamzik then east on motorway road 1 with a stop near Tematin Castle near Nove Mesto then continuing on the motorway to Belusa then off the motorway through industrial Puchov to the village of Luky north west where I took the turning for Lazy where I parked the car next to a bus stop on the left for the next climb.
Kohutka Ski Centre BIG 962. The start of the climb is by a river bridge on the right with a white sign indicating road MO5R2 Puchov. A gradual rise to begin with, passing the Mladonov war resistance memorial on the right. When I started the ride it was thunder storming but no rain came but the sky became very dark, ominous and threatening. The only rain I had was 5km from the top of the road where the steep section begins but it soon went off. I took shelter but not for long. Further up I took a photo of the valley below that was in thick cloud and raining. Towards the top it was bright and sunny. After Hotel Frantisek on the right the road becomes narrow. The way up continues through woods and road bends to reach Zlinsky Kraj / Trenciansky Kraj blue marker board at the top of the road indicating the division of two municipalities. To the left (west) is the ski centre, public house and hotel with the top of the chairlift. I hung around for a while for another cyclist to take my photo and sure
enough a cyclist soon appeared. I went to the pub to have a celebratory drink 1.30€, 35Cz. then made my way back down the mountain in 20 minutes to the welcome of the car.
Back to the car at 15.30 and just ready to go again when the heavens opened and another storm. Now 92km in 1.5 hours from Lazy back to Puchov then north to Bytca then to Makov and followed the railway to Turzovka and look for the start of the climb for Lysa Hora but couldn’t find it from this direction so passed over the unmanned Czech border to Ostravice postponing the attempt until tomorrow. It was good that I did because it would have been impossible to reach there today. I searched for a hotel. First I checked out the Forest Hotel to the east at Horecky but this was far too expensive. I settled for Hotel Freud in Ostravice £41.40, and later enjoyed a good meal there with wine £1.55, beer £1.24. the hotel is directly opposite the climb to the mountain from the west side.
Saturday 30th July 2016 Ostravice to Prague
Lysa Hora BIG 976. Leaving the car at Hotel Freud car park opposite the level crossing and start of the road towards Lysa Hora mountain I cycled to Ondras on a very steep narrow asphalt road, 25% gradient most of the way. From there to Butoranka where I reached the end of cyclable road. From here it’s a steep, stony track pushing the bike 5km to the top of the mountain. Even though this is the direct route from Ostravice to the mountain, it’s extremely strenuous. On return to the hotel later I found out that I should have taken a left at Ondras to pass Sepetna, Albinovonam to reach a cyclable track to Hradova then south alongside the gradients to reach Lysa Hora. Approx 500 metres from the top on the track there is a laid path of flat rock and a wooden railing that leads to a large wooden cross then a turn to the right and reaches the top with the first café on the right.
If I had found the road up I would have reached the top on the opposite side of the ridge with the same café on the left. There are two cafés up there, a stone obelisk among rocks and a radio transmitter housed in a tall wooden structure. I stayed a while, took plenty of photos with poses getting others to take photos me then had a beer to celebrate. From here I took the road down but what I didn’t realise was that the road descends the other side of the mountain, heading east for Papezov. It was a great descent, and a good smooth road but in the wrong direction! Now to return to Ostravice I needed to head north for Prazmo then west for Przno and south through Frydlant to reach Ostravice from the north. In doing this I had cycled a complete circuit of the mountain, about 50km. Even though I hadn’t started from the correct foot of the climb from the south the way I tackled this was far tougher and time consuming. The trip took me from 09.30 to 14.00.
Setting the sat-nav for Blansko in Czech Republic, 202km 2.75 hours through Frydek, Hranice, Olomouc and Prostejov to Blansko and parked up.
Podvrsi Tower BIG 975. Parked up at a car park at the road junction of road 374 and Mlynska on the right hand side of this road then cycled Mlynska to Cvorska and at the edge of the town the road dips but soon after climbs again through Ceskovice. From the edge of Blansko to Ceskovice there’s a footpath to the right, separated from the road by a hedge. It was good to cycle this paved path as the road is narrow and busy. The path ends, rejoins the road and passing through Ceskovice to a road junction where the way to the tower is straight on as the main road goes to the right. From here past a pub where I called in later on the return then into the woods for 1.5km where the road becomes fine gravel. Through the woods and seeing a yellow sign indicating the tower to the right, walked the short rise. Taking the usual photos I took a look at the tower but not having any kuna couldn’t go up. The way to the tower is an easy rise. It took me 40 minutes to reach the tower and 15 minutes back down
to the car after leaving the pub. I was given a free beer as I had no kuna !
From Blansko I drove on to Prague via Kurim, Tisnov and Velka Bites where I took the motorway, 237km in 2.5hours to Prague. It was dark now and raining. Entering Prague was confusing. I headed for the west side of the Vlatava hoping to find accommodation in the Mala Strana area. I found the Hotel Ibis, Mala Strana, Prague £85. I knew city prices would be expensive. No meal tonight so made do with food from my rucksack and would enjoy a full breakfast in the morning.
Sunday 31st July 2016 Prague to Perstejn, Czech Republic
Strahov Ceske Radiokomunikace (Czech Radio Communication) BIG 974. Left the car at the hotel car park. From Ibis Hotel on Radlicka north to Kartouzska on to Drtinova then right on Holeckova then left to enter Petrin Park then cycled the park path twists and turns up to Petrinska Rozhledna metal tower, Prague’s answer to the Eiffel Tower, in miniature. Took some photos of Prague from here then took the road Jezdecka and past the huge Strahov Stadium Atleticka then right on Skokanska to the Czech Radio Communication Tower just one mile away, then road Za Stra to Belphorska and straight on towards the Vltava river but back into the north part of the park again and followed the cobbled road in heavy rain down past St Nicholas Church to Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) where it started to rain and then a thunderstorm. There were many disappointed Japanese wearing plastic rain protection here unable to take photos. I didn’t hang around either. The rain became much worse so headed back to the hotel along Ujezd road and Stefanikova as quickly as possible. On the way took a
photo of Hotel Roma where we stopped a few years ago.
Car kilometre start at 10350. From Prague to Lazne Kynsvart for the climb of the Vysoke Sedlo, leaving Prague at 11.30 in a drenching rain storm, 2.1/2 hours drive of 190km, on the motorway past Pilzen to Bor then north through Marianske Lazne to Lazne Kynsvart.
Vysoke Sedlo BIG 971. Parked up in the town by a pub to the left of the start of the climb in Lazne Kynsvart. To the left of the white church the climb starts abruptly and is soon through the town and into the woods of Slavkovsky on a compacted stone road. The 5km way up isn’t a difficult climb although there is no scenery as it’s through the woods the whole way with a couple of wide bends. The to has an indication post on the right with a small plaque indicating Vysoke Sedlo above the walking route directions Lazne Kynsvart. Next to this is a wooden picnic table and benches, no more than that. I turned the bike around, took photos and went back down to Lazne Kynsvart. The climb took me 40 minutes then 10 minutes back down to the small town, 14.15 to 15.15
Back to the car and headed for Stara Voda. On the way I passed Schloss Konigswart, south of Lazne Kynzvart. This is a huge white house that stands in its own grounds, many people walking in the vicinity. From there the road passes through a long avenue of poplar trees then to the main road and almost into Cheb, the most westerly point of my two-week tour. I headed east again through Karlovy Vary and stopped for a while to relive memories of the place we visited approx. 30 years ago before the collapse of the Iron Curtain. The place doesn’t seem to have changed. The buildings and spa are just as I remembered. It was a brief respite from the rain but as I started off again heading for Perstejn at foot of Medenik, my next climb, the rain was coming down in torrents.
It’s only 23km to Perstejn – 40 minutes away and I was praying like mad for the rain to stop. So far I was able to cycle in dry conditions even though it had rained most of the time I was driving and hoped against odds that it would be dry for my final climb today. At Rkycany I filled up with diesel.
Medenec BIG 972. I parked up at the large car park in front of Formule 1 Hotel just off the main road south of Perstejn then north into the village and along road Hlavni following the stream up through Vykmanov, Mytinka and Horni Halzi on a 10% average gradient to road 223 and right for Medenec. From Horni there is a dip towards Medenec but I could see the squat tower on the hillside ahead and the craggy peaks of the disused iron ore mine barely out of the undulating plateau. Only the Kupferhübl (Mednik) with strikingly simple Baroque chapel of the Immaculate Conception from 1684 at Měděnec (Kupferberg). Taking a turning to the left at the entrance to Medenec then passing the first building after 300 metres and a stony car park there’s a rough track that traverses the hillside for 200 metres and around to the right leading to the Kupferberg squat tower after a final steep grassy slope to reach it. I took the usual photos. There’s the typical bare branch at the top with place names . on boards nailed to it. I started from Perstejn at 17.00 and took 1.1/4 hours to reach the tower, half an
hour there and back to the car at 19.15. Hotel Formule 1 below Medenic at Perstejn was 28€ and 15.30€ for a meal; soup, steak, chips, banana split and two beers. The owners don’t speak English but got by with my limited German.
Monday 1st August 2016 Perstejn to Dresden
After a good breakfast I drove back up to Horni Hazli and took a left along road 223 then 219 to Bozi Dar and parked up.
Fichtelberg, BIG 188, Vogtland. Although I’ve been here before two years previously the weather was so bad at the time that I saw nothing because of heavy fog. It was the same experience at Auersberg nearby so took the opportunity in better weather to revisit both climbs. I soon reached the open border and into Germany, taking the acute left turn after the wide parking area then a right turn further along that led to a large car park for the winter skiers off to the left then further up to reach the plateau and the large hotel at the top. I couldn’t even see this on my first visit. Today the weather was very good and there were extensive views across the countryside. After the usual photos I returned back the same way, it took me an hour to reach the top.
Driving from Bozi Dar and on through Pernink, Potucky and Breitenbrunn to Sosa to approach Auersberg from the north at Eibenstock I found it wasn’t possible as the bridge was up north of Sosa where it connects to the main road. Sosa lies in a valley and even though driving I appreciated the long sweep down the hillside to reach it from the south – but I had to go back up again. I drove on, back to a road junction where I came in but this time carried on through Johanngeorgenstadt and parked up. From Perstejn to this point it took me 2.1/4 hours, a distance of 196km
Auersberg BIG 187, Vogtland. From Oberwildenthal, just off the main road where I parked and took the direct road up the mountain with the radio telescope dish at the top of the long rise through the trees, about 2km away. From that point a less steep rise to the left to reach the Bergstation. The hotel and café there are closed on Mondays – quiet day – ruhetag. The usual photos then back down again, there and back in 1.1/2 hours.
Driving from Oberwildenthal and through Eibenstock and Aue I came to the autobahn south of Zwickau and followed this to the outskirts of Dresden then south for the Czech border and off the autobahn at Chlumec for Krupka and found a car park behind the shops in the centre of the town. Road 253 to road 13/248 then road 8 to The border, road 17 then road 170 to Krupka. I found the small tourist information office for the start of the road for Komari Vizka.
Komari Vizka BIG 973. From the shops and with the double tower church on the right I took the road over an old level crossing over a disused railway line then began the steep climb up through the old part of the town. Both sides of the narrow road are lined with interesting old buildings. The steep section continues for approx.4km then a 500 metre breather before a turn to the right and steep again through the woods, passing a white painted old smithy on the right. There are plenty of road bends up through the woods to reach the bell tower and restaurant, off to the right then a rough road for approx. 300 metres to the restaurant at Komari Vizka perched on the summit.
There are great views looking over the countryside, a 360 degree view. One BIG, one beer – Pilsner Urquell at 1.60€. I started the climb at 15.00 and reached the top at 16.15
From Krupka I returned to the autobahn and continued on into Dresden and arrived at Hotel Privat,
Forststrasse 22, Dresden Neustadt at 19.00 I booked in for two nights £130 then phoned Hans who suggested we meet in the morning at 10.00. I walked the Elbe river southbank into the city and had a pizza in the city centre arcade and later walked back via Bauzenstrasse but got lost in the streets. I needed a walker sat-nav ! A passer-by led me to the correct route then soon back at the hotel and also found an Ibis hotel on the way, they gave me a street map.
Tuesday 2nd August 2016 Dresden
A day at Hans and Eva’s house near the hotel. I had lunch and tea there and back to the hotel at 19.00.
We talked about Brexit, immigrants, his relatives. Hans was proud of his grandchildren – Ursula’s children. Mostly reliving past events. We phoned Ruth from his house. For a break in the afternoon I walked the river. A second night at Hotel Privat, Forststrasse, Dresden
Wednesday 3rd August 2016 Dresden to Bystrzyca Klodzka, Poland
After breakfast I drive into the city and leave the car at Lidl supermarket car park to the east of the city and cycle around Dresden centre with a smattering of rain and visited the waterfront, Frauenkirche, Zwinger. A quick ‘American Tour’ of the city. Late morning I drive into Poland at Gorlitz on the autobahn. Amazed that the sat-nav doesn’t show maximum speed. There were traffic hold-ups at Bauzen then there was a bridge up and a diversion route. I was over the border into Poland at 13.00 restriction when driving the autobahn – because there isn’t any. From the border the road was south east through Luban then Grytow to Pobiedna just north of Swieradow-Zdroj where I parked up. This is on a narrow leafy lane deep in farmland. Unloading the bike at 14.00 and ready for what I thought would be an easy climb but it turned out to be one of the toughest.
Stog Izerski BIG 951. From Pobiedna I took a right then left at a track that indicated Stog Izerki. The track led up past a couple of forest fire watchtowers and reached a point where it was impossible to continue with a road bike further at Granica 7.3km from the road. I found another indicator back at the road but it led to the same point. I continued on into Swieradow and found a street map on a board that detailed the way to the mountain. From here it was along a short road past a school then over a river bridge to the left then to the right and up on a pleasant narrow lane then 22 to 25% incline for approx. 3km then to the left to a road junction then a right to the top marked only by a covered picnic table and a stone opposite inscribed with the name of the summit, however the mountain Stog Izerski is 2.1km along a grassy track to the left off the end of the road. It was raining hard now and on my way down it was scary trying to brake on the steep descent with water flowing down the road. The climb took me from 14.00 to 17.30.
From Pobiedna I drove 170km to Klodzko, 3.5 hours, via Jelenia Gora and Walbrzych. It was dark when I reached Klodzko. I looked for accommodation, found two hotels as I wandered the streets but there were no vacancies. I drove on for Bystrzyca Klodzka and found accommodation at Hotel Castle, Bystrzyca Klodzka for £25 with breakfast. It was too late to eat, the restaurant was closed.
Thursday 4th August 2016 Bystrzyca Klodzka to Krakow Airport
Czarna Gora BIG 952. from Bystrzyca Klodzka a little confusion trying to find the start of the climb.
I left the town and took a right on the main road then a left at a crossroads 500 metres away, clearly indicating . Czarna Gora on a large board to the right of the road. The way up is through farmland villages, bends near the top at Bazla then steeper with a few hairpins to an uneventful road summit in the trees, marked only by a solitary picnic table and national park notice boards. From here there is a track off to the right and I was hoping to reach the radio mast above the trees but the track was level then began to go down so turned back. It was an easy descent back to Bystrzyca Klodzka on a good smooth road. Straight over the crossroads at the bottom to reach the town from the other direction. The town itself is interesting with its castle and the road goes around it to reach the hotel where I started.
I drove the motorway east for Krakow passing close to Katowice. From Bystrzyca Klodzka along lanes to Jesenik then east along the motorway, 298 km in 3.75 hours.
I left the car at road Bronowicka from off the motorway just west of the city then cycled in to the centre past .the Transport Museum with a black steam locomotive at the entrance and in to the city centre at Rynek Glowny along Karmelicka and Szewska, then south along roads Grodzka to Wawel Hill and the Wisla Dragon below Wawel Hill.
Car left at Hilton Gardens Hotel, Krakow Airport. Final diesel fill at airport £33. Total car hire cost £401
Friday 5th August 2016 Krakow to Holmes Chapel
Krakow departure 10.55, arrival in Liverpool 12.35. Flight EZY7254