Saturday 25th July 2015 Home to Rennes, Ille Et Vilaine, Brittany
Now this was a real cycle tour, not the usual hire of a car and cycling only the BIG’s. Where’s the challenge in that? It’s only because my touring area this time was confined to an area no larger than the south west of England. It’s only because of that I could enjoy the privilege of a true tour otherwise hire a car would be a must. It was also enjoyable not to have to put the bike on a plane. Instead it was the joys of Eurostar through the channel tunnel, first class too with a meal on board. This was great relaxation, especially after two bottles of good French wine but then suddenly everything went dark outside – oh, I was in the tunnel – 20 minutes later to emerge and seeing the lorry queues on this side of the water too. I was apprehensive before the trip, keeping a careful watch on the news to see if Eurostar would be affected by the trouble at the ports but it was all so easy and in fact arrived in Paris early. I claimed my bike in its bag from the staff unloading it from the train. This was a good thing to do as the GeoParts despatch area is a long walk alongside platform 1 on Gare du Nord. Collecting the bike I made my way down to the Metro with a ticket already purchased on board Eurostar then followed route M4 direction Marie de Montrouge to Gare Montparnasse Bienvenue Metro. This only took 30 minutes. My bike bag has wheels and just as well as it’s a fair walk to Gare Montparnasse from its Metro station, passing Gallerie Lafayette. Once there I had plenty of time to board the TGV for Rennes, arriving two hours later then along to my hotel in the cobbled street where there’s plenty of places to eat and my hotel nearby, arriving at 23.00.
Sunday 26th July 2015 Rennes to Erquy, Le Val Andre, Cotes D’ Armor 2015 10.30 – 20.30 From Dol de Bretagne to Erquy 120km, 75 miles
Today the adventure begins but first of all I unpacked and assembled the bike and left the bike bag at the hotel. I would stay here on the final night of my tour and return home the same way I came. It’s a short distance back to Gare Rennes, especially now I knew the route. I boarded a train at 09.30 to Dol de Bretagne to cycle my first BIG of the tour. The weather was against me though. As soon as I arrived at the small station I fished for my rainwear and put on the lot as the rain was coming down like stair rods. This was a bad introduction to my return to cycling in France since May 2009. First off I headed south to see the huge menhir stone standing erect in a field a short way off the side road, Menhir De Champ Dolent. I took a couple of photos when the rain stopped. I was hoping now that I could dodge the rain and cycled back into Dol de Bretagne, a quick look at the church there as I was passing then followed the signs for St Malo and Le Vivier. Soon the isolated hill of Mont Dol could be seen and I kept to the main road until the indication for Mont Dol BIG 210 off to the right. It’s a slight rise into the village but then at the church the climb begins abruptly with a turn to the left. It’s only a short distance but a steep rise with an acute turn to the left nearing the top. Soon after that I could see the windmill ahead and the observation tower to the right a little higher behind a group of trees.
I continued on past the windmill and café along a short track to reach the top amongst bracken, took a couple of photos then went to look at the windmill. Inside was a man happy to give a description of its workings and history. From there I pushed the bike up the grassy mound to the chapel and took in the view from there. Mont St Michael could be seen in the distance but today it was just a grey triangle in the distance with grey swirls of cloud that soon became black as it started to rain again. My last port of call was to walk the stone spiral steps to the top of the observation tower then carefully slide back down the steep road in the rain back to the village. I stopped for a coffee and chocolate crepes at the café by the church 7.00€ but was told that I must leave by 12.00 as they were having a wedding reception there. The owner laughed after he asked me where I was going today. From Mont Dol it was a ride in the rain most of the way to St Malo along the coast road. When I reached the town the rain subsided for the rest of the day, almost. St Malo is an interesting town encircled by high stone ramparts. Behind the walls it’s mainly narrow cobble streets and high old buildings. Just off the coast are two small islands, one with an old fort. There’s an interesting long beach with series of stakes by the wall for boat moorings. From St Malo I followed the coast road around to Dinard.
There’s a pleasant beach here complete with blue and white striped material changing cabins along the shoreline. I must find out why there’s a statue of Alfred Hitchcock here and what’s the association with Dinard? Bird figures on his arms depict the wild birds in his film ‘Birds’. On from Dinard at 4.00pm along the coast road through St Lunaire and St Briac to Ploubalay and its windmill. From there along a dull and busy main road, steeply down to the coast then an equally steep bike up to St Aide. I took a right at the top for Plevenon then on to my second BIG of the day, Cap Brehel BIG 209. The climbing though was over back at the main road. First off I took a road off to the right that led for 4km to Fort La Latte that was worth the diversion. The fort overlooks the sea at the extreme east point of the Frehel Peninsula. I returned the same way then took a right to the tall lighthouse and structure. I asked a visitor to take my photo and another person offered at the squat tower by the rocks at the rear of the lighthouse. The cliffs are impressive and took some photos of the landscape. From here it was about time I headed off to Erquy and my pre-booked hotel as soon as possible. From Cap Frehal it’s up and down along the 8km to Sables-d’Or les Pins. At that point the heavens opened so on with the rainwear and head down until I reached Erquy where it was dry again but I needed the hotel and a good warm shower. The proprieter was just about to leave me a note on the door for me to ring her as she was just going out. I made it there just in time. The bike needed a good clean after a wet day so gave it some attention. Later I walked along the bay and found a pizzeria near the harbour, enjoyed soup and a pizza with a beer then walked back to the warmth of the hotel.
Monday 27th July 2015 Erquy to St Aignan, Mur de Bretagne, Morbihan 10.00 – 19.30 115km, 72 miles
After a wonderful breakfast and plenty of doggy bag for lunch I took a left heading south for Lamballe against a strong wind but at least it wasn’t raining. I saw a board alongside the road indicating a nearby chateau so I took a left after a few kilometres and along a wide track that led to Bienassis Chateau. It wasn’t open until 10.00am but I only wanted to see the building from the outside., taking a few photos. Back to the main road and continued then a left turn off the St Brieuc main road and heading now for Lamballe along a mainly straight road and slightly down and into the town. I took a right going through the town passing a quaint fountain surrounded by horse head statues then up to the main road and on along an easy open road to Montcontour heading for my next climb. Along here I had some rain, but it was the only rain of the day.Just before the town is a memorial to French resistance fighters and to General Patton. From there it’s a steep uphill into the small quaint town of old buildings and cobbled streets. Classical music was filling the main square by the church and I took a look around the area before taking a narrow road through the town heading north again then first turn to the right for the start of the gradual climb at 15% to Bel Air, BIG 208 south east of the town. Along the way, outside houses at Notre Dame du Haut, are painted bicycles strung up. I couldn’t resist taking photos of them. I followed the signs for Bel Air and eventually reached a clearing and a steeper rise the metal masts that crown the top. Just before the top I reached a chapel that was open and signed their guest book – no other English visitors had signed it so had to be the first. Just past the chapel is the name board marking the road top of Col Bel Air. I freewheeled down the other side as far as the beginning of houses at Ville Orio then biked back up again to the top, took some photos then back down again, this time to Plessala on a slight rise then on to Langest where I stopped at a pub for a drink and to eat my breakfast doggy bag. After a rest for a while and revitalised I passed through Plouguenast then right at Pontgamp heading for St Herve along a dark tree shaded lane, mainly up. Over the main road then I was on my way down steeply to St Herve then took a left to join the main road heading for Mur de Bretagne. The place itself is the other side of a busy main road then a sweep down into the small town, arriving at 5.00pm. Once there I finished off my doggy bag at a picnic table by the church then psyched myself up for the climb of the Wall of Brittany, Mur de Bretagne BIG 207. From the pub on the road through the town opposite the church it’s a steep downhill to the main road, then a level section followed by the wall itself which is not really difficult but I had sympathy for the riders of the Tour de France who finished a stage here only a week before having started that day in Rennes. After that distance the finish to the Mur – or Wall is enough for any man. For me it was just a matter of a steady slow rhythm in a low gear and reaching the top in 15 minutes – I know the tour riders probably did it in three. The spectator matting was still piled up at the top of the road yet to be collected. I took a few photos then made my way down again and through Mur de Bretagne to St Aignan to look for my accommodation at 7.00pm. I couldn’t find it. I biked through the village and back again to the main road. It’s a pleasant enough place but my digs wasn’t in this area. I asked at a Chamres d’Hotes place and met the English owners. They guessed the place I was looking for was a few kilometres further south so he took me in his car to the right place, asked for and sure enough this was where I needed to be – at a place called Croix-Even. He drove me back to my bike then I cycled back to the bed and breakfast run by an elderly couple who spoke no English but somehow we conversed. I asked where was the nearest place to eat and it was suggested I go back to Mur, however she offered to drive me there after phoning up the restaurant to reserve a place for me. She also collected me afterwards. I had a slight disagreement with a Frenchman in the restaurant who was upset when I mentioned about Chris Froome winning the Tour de France. I distinctly heard the words ‘ass hole’ after giving me the raspberry! I had steak and chips ‘bein cuet’. I was glad of the lift back as it would have been a 7km walk! Veneer shesh say SVP! I wasn’t charged extra the following morning for the personal taxi service.
Tuesday 28th July 2015 St Aignan to Huelgoat, Finistere 164km, 102 miles 09.00 to 20.30
An earlier start and a longer day. It was breakfast alone as nobody else was staying the night. It was cool to start with and I had rain later on. I climbed back up the Mur and then over the top along undulating countryside but quiet roads through Corlay to Guingamp. I passed over Col la Clarte then it was mainly downhill from there. The final 15km to Guingamp is through a pleasant wooded area. Just before Gungamp I had some rain but went off when I was exploring the town. The main street is pedestrianised, cobbled and has many old buildings. Through the town and following the for Pedernec soon found the minor road D712 off to the south that runs parallel with the busy N12 road Rennes to Brest. Suddenly the sky turned black and it was soon chucking it down cats and dogs again! The minor road takes a straight course for 12km to the turn off for Menez Bre BIG 206. It was off to the right and immediately after another right turn then steeply uphill under a tunnel of trees eventually to a clearing to reach the isolated chapel at the top. I was glad of the cove on the way up as I had on total rainwear but still felt like a drowned rat when I reached the top. The rain went off for a while, I was fortunate and able to take photos. The rain started again so took shelter at the covered stone seating area before the main door. I shared it with a cat, also cold and wet so gave it some of my doggy bag! From there back down the same way and along to Belle Isle en Terre. The rain went off at that point and was dry the remainder of the day. I wanted to reach my second BIG of the day north west of Huelgoat so threaded my way along country lanes through Loc-Envel, Le Dresnay, Loguivy and Plougras to the interesting small town, Guerlesquin. In the cobbled square is a four pinnacle squat tower with interesting old buildings lining the wide street. From here I was Finestere Department of Brittany. From here I took a left for Berrien then on to La Feuillee. From here I should have checked my map to reach the road top of Roc Trevezal BIG 201 but instead took a minor road and headed for Botmeur but took a right turn too soon and came back to Litiez. I asked the way to the top and was directed back to a stone cross and take the right fork that was track that led to the top slightly east of the radio mast. It was an achievement staying on the bike on the rise to the top through the grass – and pulling panniers. I reached the rock at the crossroads and to the gates and fence around the mast and took photos. From there I felt like kicking myself because it was an easy road up or down, soon passing La Feuillee and as quickly as I could continuing on the main road, mainly downhill for Huelgoat. Off the main road and the direct way to the town it was down through wooded countryside to the town and easily found my accommodation. It was just great to be welcomed by a young couple who had set up their business here coming from Paignton, Devon. I was offered a large glass of wine that was left for me by the bath and I enjoyed a good soak for half an hour – outside and in!
They told me of their escape from the rat-race in the UK and he didn’t miss his daily traffic jam at Drewsteignton. I needed a meal and was directed along the road to a brasserie – again it was English owned. I was greeted by Yorkshire lass Micky who helped me with the menu. I’d hit on an English enclave here! I had a pasta, salad and beer. Meanwhile back at my bed and breakfast the man had repaired my down tube bottle holder as I’d lost a screw, what a service. I slept so well that night after a good bath and good food.
Wednesday 29th July 2015 Huelgoat to Plomodiern, Finistere, 116km, 73 miles 10.30 to 20.30
Breakfast this morning was fantastic! It may not have been a full English bacon, eggs, sausage, beans mushrooms and black pudding but the bread was good. I felt it too cheeky to wrap and make off with a doggy bag so didn’t. I stayed a while to chat and enjoy relaxing at the lakeside in their private garden then had a quick look at the town square, taking a couple photos then began the climb out of Huelgoat to Tronc where the road to St Herbot bridges over the main the main road. After St Herbot church it’s a long slope up to the barren area at Roc’h Beghoer to reach Loqueffret village then a left turn to head for Chateauneuf on a road going slightly down most of the way. In Chateauneuf I took a look at the church and an artisan market then passed on going down to the river then up through wooded country to Spezet. In the Breton language this place is called Speied. This is a very neat village of small quaint houses and a white cobbled long street. I noticed a pub at the other end of the village at the foot of my next climb that sold Guinness but I resisted the temptation! From outside Spezet it’s a steady climb up to Roc de Toullaeron BIG 205 where there’s a blue summit marker plate among the thick woods so no view at the top. I passed some mad dogs on the way up that chased my wheel making me quicken my pace so I got my own back on them on the way down by running through them. I returned back to Spezet then took a left for St Goazec, an extremely steep road going up into the village. I continued on for Laz and passing Trevarez Chateau I stopped to take a look at it then continued on alongside the fenced off grounds of the chateau and a long grind uphill through the woods then followed the D41 road mainly uphill to Gouezec and took the steep road off to the left heading for Les Trois Fontaines then back down again. Gouezec itself is another neat village, a farming community, an interesting statue of figures around a crucifix by the road in the church grounds.
I passed over the busy Brest to Quimper road, a motorway and shortly afterwards took a left for Cast then a turn to the right and immediately up for my second climb of the day, Menez Kerque BIG 203. Along the road to Cast,steep to begin with away from the main road then after a bend to the right it levels out to a crossroads. At that point I took a right turn where the narrow road heading over to Chateaulin rises steeply. At the end of the tree line there’s a drop barrier with an indication board stating private area, military staff only and ahed of me a track that rises gradually to the two masts that crown the top. I risked going under the barrier and cycled to the top, the final section for about 100 metres being very steep then the track ends between the two masts. If there were military personnel there they would have told me to go but the area was unmanned. I took my photos, took in the view then went back down the way I came. On meeting the road I took a right turn and headed off down the mountain steeply into Chateaulin. The road from Menez Kerque emerges by a footbridge over the river in the town. I biked alongside the river and spotted a tourist information kiosk so asked inside for any information on Menez Kerque or Menez Hom. They could give me a colour brochure in English of what Menez Hom has to offer. I didn’t linger in the town as it was approx 6.00pm so pressed on along the busy main road, uphill to the turn-off for Dineault but continued on the main road, slightly down now passing Saint Maria Menez Hom then up a bit to the turning for Menez Hom BIG 202 where the road climbs continually to the top, but it’s only 2km. I took in the view and photos then back down and the turning for Plomodiern to search for my night’s accommodation. I found the road easily enough, opposte a supermarket however Hotel et Creperie de Pors-Morvan was a further 5km along this road at almost halfway back to Chateaulin. I booked in at 8.00pm and after a change walked across to the creperie and had three crepes and a bottle of local cider. I took some photos at the back of the buildings of the sunset and of the courtyard then back to the room and had no problems sleeping after an active day.
Thursday 30th July 2015 Plomodiern to Rennes, Ille Et Vilainie. 09.30 to 17.00 From Plomodiern to Quimper, 56km, 35 miles
Breakfast was simple but filling, just bread, jam and croissants and a pot of coffee. I cycled back up the hill to Plomodiern and went north back to the top of Menez Hom again. It was different in the morning light. There were more people around and plenty of activity. Some were sailing up on frames lifted by wind balloons and others were flying model aircraft. This time I went to the viewpoint a little further than the nearby one by the end of the road. I took in the view then returned back down and had a look around the church, Saint Maria Menez Hom then back to Plomodiern and headed south but at Ploeven headed for the coast at Ty-Anquer. Toilets at the campsite were useful then followed the coast through St Anne La Palud to the main road just before Locronan. Cars are not permitted to enter the village and motorists have to pay 4.00€ for parking then walk. I asked the way to Montagne de Locranan BIG 204 and my last BIG of the tour. As I entered the village it was up by the side of a glass shop then continue. There were no cars on the steep narrow road heading for the top. After a steep climb I reached a road junction where the other narrow road comes up from the village then continued up, steeply again for about a kilometre to reach the chapel on the left. From there to the mast a short distance along and my way was barred by a wheelbarrow with a large plant in, beyond is private ground. I took the usual photos and at the chapel and returned back down the same way. I had a look around the interesting traffic free village and stayed an hour and had a victory drink at a pub by the church. Duchess Anne beer is the strongest at 8% so sat and enjoyed that outside in the sun together with remaining food from my panniers. I asked the bartender to take my photo as I lounged back satisfied with my achievements. All that remained now was to bike on to Quimper 15kilometres to the south. A few kilometres from the town there’s one last hill but then a long downhill at 10% into the city at 3.00pm. I had almost two hours to wait for the next train to Rennes. If I had the bike bag I could have taken it on the Brest to Paris TGV an hour earlier so I went to discover the streets of the city and later boarded a train for Rennes. I must find out why there are British flags – buntings – across all the city centre walkways. I was amazed at the number of bikes allowed on the train – there were at least 10 and mine was hung up as I got on there first. There are three hooks to hang bikes. The others take up floor space in the carriage. Arriving in Rennes I biked to the same hotel where I entered Brittany from Paris and went out for a meal at a cheap stand up type pizzeria later then had a bar drink close to the hotel then retired for the night.
Total distance cycling 571km, 357 miles
Friday 31st July 2015 Rennes to home
I cycled to the station and dismantled the bike and took 10.35 TGV to Paris Montparnasse and wheeled the bike in bag to the metro and on to Paris Gare du Nord. It was easier this way round as I knew what to expect. At Gare du Nord I booked the bike on to the Eurostar but I was far too early so the bike went to London St Pancras on an earlier train so collected it from the Eurostar baggage office at the end of St Pancras station. I wandered around for a while killing time in front of Gare du Nord, had a couple of beers bought from a shop and lazed in the sun at a church frontage south of the station. On the way back I spoke to a Dutch cyclist outside Gare du Nord station to interest him in the Challenge-BIG as he said he was interested in cycling hilly roads. I gave him the web address and gave him my name and email address. Later on board Eurostar I shared table seats with some Nottingham girls who had won cheap tickets but were amazed at the price of mine. They told me of their trip to Paris, one night only. Later I met them on Euston Road outside St Pancras as I was wheeling the bike to Euston. They gave me a metal key ring of the Eiffel Tower! Shortly after I boarded the train at Euston and on to Crewe but as usual had an hour’s wait there and boarded the last train home, arriving home at 11.30pm