September 2018
Final Three French Alp Climbs and Italian border 2nd Visits
Provence Alps and Piedmont
Tuesday 11th September 2018
Leaving home this morning by train to Liverpool South Parkway for the EasyJet flight EZY7065 Liverpool to Nice at 12.50, I arrived in Nice at 16.05. On collecting the hire car from the airport then drove north to Saint Etienne de Tinee 111km (70 miles), a 3 hour drive. 17.00 – 19.00, along interesting gorge scenery, especially north of St Sauveur. A little further on and parked to assemble my bike for morning – easier to do it now rather than in the morning. Overnight in Saint Etienne de Tinee after a pizza at a hotel but didn’t stay there – slept in the car. The sight of the stars from the unlit lay-by to the south of the village was a wow factor – so clear and often unseen because of light pollution was the belt of the Milky Way and many more stars not seen except here in total darkness. It was total quietness too and slept well in the car until the first noise of passing cars at 07.00
Wednesday 12th September 2018
Half asleep drove the kilometre to the village and parked up then a walk around Saint Etienne, very quiet at an early hour. There was a cafe open so asked for a coffee and croissant and dived into their toilet to wash and shave and change into cycle clothing. I took my time, had a second coffee then back to the car parked in the village car park and pulled the bike out and set off at 09.00 for Cime de la Bonette BIG 308– 2803 metres. It took me 4.1/2 hours to reach the top of the climb after 26 km. I was slow however and stopped many times along the way for photos and food. The return was easy – one hour. At St Pre on the way up the strength of the sun was intense even though I started the ride in jacket and longs. Now it was cycle vest and shorts. A few kilometres from the end I recognized the road from col to the cime that resembled a coal tip – completely barren. Also there was the steep road for the half kilometre to the top. My first visit to climb the north side was July 2010. When I reached the upright rock at the top there were cyclists but also motor-bikers there, mainly German. I asked one to ‘macht mein foto’ and stayed a while to admire the view = of the landscape that is, not my photos. On returning to the car I bundled the bike back in then drove back up to the col and on to Jausiers, arriving at 15.00 then cycled Col de Vars after some supermarket shopping in Jausiers to eat for energy for another climb up the south side of Col de Vars. Having cycled the north side many years ago I started from part way up because I wanted to reach Guillestre and my fixed accommodation in daylight. The climb took me three hours from 15.00 to 18.00 to reach the small cafe at the top then back to the car and over to Guillestre. My accommodation at Cap Verb was at the foot of the Col de Vars road at the start of the town. Drive 43km (27 miles) to Guillestre. Later a burger at a cafe in the square by the Marie.
Thursday 13th September 2018
After breakfast at Cap Verb – simple but good – can’t complain at £19 for the night, I drive from Guillestre to Chateau Queyras 19km (12 miles), 30 minutes. I remember this road from the other direction, cycling from Briancon over Col d’Izoard then west along the gorge road in July 2010. This morning there were plenty of cyclists, most of them heading east for Col Agnel. I parked the car at the small car park by the traffic lights west of the village centre then lumbered the bike out of the boot and passed through the traffic lights and took the first turn to the left a kilometre away and down to the river bridge to begin the climb of the Sommet Bucher BIG 295 2210 metres, distance 11km. (7 miles) 10.00 to 12.30, 2.1/2 hours up, 1 hour down and back to the village at 14.00. At first the road is asphalt and narrow. After several kilometres at a picnic area the road becomes a gravel surface with some asphalt sections. The final kilometre is all asphalt. First I go to the left which seemed to be the obvious point for the top at a radio mast – however it isn’t. The top is to the right of the road surrounded by trees with a stone hut and orientation table at the top. Great views of Chateau Queyras on the way down. Later I cycled Col d’Izoard from the south at Avoiraz from 15.00 to 17.00 with steep sections after 8km to reach the top and passing the long sweep of the Cassa Deserte area of fine shale stone steep slopes and standing stones. At the top I was taking photos then a police contingent from a parked control car took an interest in a lone British cyclist and one madame officer wanted a photo taken of her with my bike – happy to oblige as long as she doesn’t impound it. It was one hour return at 18.30, arriving back in Guillestre at 19.15. Out for a pasta at Le Portillon restaurant nearer to my accommodation. I stayed in Guillestre for a second night at Cap Verb, CIAL Rue de Fontloube.
Friday 14th September 2018
This morning I drove back over Col de Vars and through Jausiers because I wanted to take a wander around Barcelonnette to relive memories of le tour de Grande Alpes of July 2010. I had met up with an English guy belonging to the UK version of the CCC –Club des 100 Cols and we had a meal together in a restaurant on the main square after cycling Col des Champs to the south. That day I had cycled the circuit Barcelonnette-Col d’Allos-Col des Champs-Col de la Cayolle-Barcelonnette. Parking by the church and square in the centre was no problem. I recognised the places and also took a walk along the main street remembering the Mexican theme of the town. From there I drove on heading for Gap but first wanted to revisit Col de Pontis BIG 303 that I had cycled from the north in July 2010. This time I would cycle from the south. I parked up at the foot of the pass at Ubaye. It’s only 4km to reach the top of the road however it’s tough going with some really steep sections. I was passed by an older cyclist on a featherweight bike, a Frenchman who was col bagging and had a card to punch. He inserted the card into a small punch on a wood pole at the top that pressed on the embossed indication to record that he had reached Col de Pontis and was cycling on from here to his next climb from Barcelonnette. I noticed that the blue plate, indicating the top of the road, was no longer here. Continuing down the other side on the narrow road through the woods I passed through Pontis village to emerge at Lac de Serre Poncon and took a left on the main road for a short rise for 2km to Demoiselles Coiffees, the unusual capped earth pillars with what appears to be rounded rocks balanced on the top of them. There were road-works here which slowed traffic down so it was possible to walk the road safely and take in the sight. From here I continued on along the lake to Sauze de Lac then a steep downhill for 2km and several bends back down to Ubaye and the parked car. From Ubaye at 10.20 it was 70 minutes to reach the top and my cyclo recorded 5.3km. I was back at the car completing the circuit at 12.30. From here my car sat-nav directed me through Savines and over the long causeway bridge then Chorges was by-passed to Pont Sarrazin before Gap then over Col de Manse through St Laurent to avoid Gap then north to the foot of Col du Noyer below Poligny. From Guillestre drove 90km (56 miles) for east side climb of Col du Noyer BIG 300 1664 metres distance 13km. (8 miles) Starting at 14.00 it took me from 14.15 to 16.30 to reach the top, 1 hour down at 17.30 to reach the car parked at the turn off by the main road. Filling bottles with water from the fountain by Poligny church then began the climb but for the first 4km as far as Noyer village it’s only a slight rise through the pleasant countryside. Each kilometre is indicated with a brown plate for cyclists indicating current height, gradient for the next kilometre and distance to the summit. A point of interest along the way is a chapel to the left of the road standing in an open green area. From Noyer, a turn to the left and the climb suddenly begins along a narrow road, 6km to the top. Two kilometres from the top the gradient is 11.5% but the average overall is 7%. Once there at the top, the usual photos then back-tracked the same way. From Poligny the drive is 186km (116 miles) to Romans, north east of Valence @ 35mph = 3 hours. 17.45 to 20.45. Stay overnight in Romans-sur-Isere at Au the a la menthe, 8 Rue Hugues de Lionne.
Saturday 15th September 2018
My BIG day has arrived. Francois had contacted me to say he would leave his car at the road top of Col de Tourniol then cycle down and across Romans sur Isere to my hotel. He arrived at 10.30. We chatted a while then cycled down to te bridge over the river by the cathedral. Heiko, Anja and Irene would arrive at 12.00. unknown to me – as Heiko had only mentioned it as a possibility – Ard Oostra would also join. I was extremely grateful and humbled by the fact that Francois had driven from Normandy, staying overnight in Lyons. Also Heiko and contingent had driven from Amberg and stayed over with Ard Oostra at his home in Montreux and driven from there this morning. Enrico Alberini from Italy staying with Thierry Labour and also Daniel Coulon another French man had also arranged to meet at the foot of the climb in Bourg de Peage south of the river. Heiko and Irene had parked their large vans just north of the A49 crossover in a lay-by. There was some confusion as to where and how to meet up. Heiko and Thierry had cycled down to the river bridge to meet us. I had suggested a parking place on a quiet road near to where I was staying a kilometre to the west of the cathedral but they wanted to park at the starting point. We cycled back to the vans to join the others then set off at 13.00 to climb the western side of Col de Tourniol BIG 297. 1145 metres. Distance 24km. (15 miles) It took 3 hours to cycle up, 2 hours down. 13.00 to 18.00.
It was so good to cycle with others. Eight of us kept together as we enjoyed the climb and the scenery on a wonderful warm and sunny day. It was a deep blue sky and no wind – absolutely perfect! There were eight – but where was Francois? “Oh, he’s gone on ahead”, said Anja. I wasn’t aware until I reached the top that Francois was providing waiter service when we arrived. A few hundred metres from the end the others urged me on to reach the top first. Then I saw the Union flag and EU flag draped across the road, kept down with a few rocks. I rode the UK flag then back over to go over the EU flag just to show that I’m a Brit who respects the EU ! After many photos and congratulations – so thankful – Francois and Thierry went back to where we came up and produced a folding table hidden behind a large rock. Francois then draped the Union flag over the paste table and brought out champagne – Carod Clairette de Die Cuvee Symbiose Tradition - and a box of chocolate biscuits from the boot of his car. We celebrated my 1000th climb achievement in real style thanks to Francois’ wonderful organisation and arrangement – and his great effort because he driven from home in Saint Marcel, Normandy to Lyon then the following day to Romans then after that had driven to the Col de Tourniol road summit, cycled down then cycled up again before the rest of us had arrived. That was a superhuman effort that goes far beyond the call of duty and really shows the character of the man. It’s no wonder that he has a responsible job in his workplace and also that he’s attracted a beautiful wife to marry. Thank you Francois! But before me showering him with praise – on the day he showered me with a bottle of champagne! It was like a Formula 1 racing driver at the podium! Following that the smell of the alcohol stayed with me in the evening as I went to Thierry’s house for a meal without taking a shower first! I took my time on the descent taking photos on the way down, however we regrouped lower down in Barbieres. Riding together we approached the two vans parked in the lay-by and noticed some movement in Irene’s van. A man had broken in and was still sitting there. We approached and he ran away across the road but not before quick thinking Ard took a photo of him. Heiko came behind shortly after and we shoted to Heiko to follow him but too late, he had a distance lead before we could catch him. I followed Heiko as he tried to catch up. He was spotted crossing into a field and Heiko chased him but he managed to get away. He had stolen Irene’s mountain bike and had gone back for more spoils when he was spotted. He had made off with a computer tablet and a sat-nav. Thierry Labour invited me to his home in Mallisard near Valence for a meal so made my way straight there from the incident. Back to Romans and a stay in Romans-sur-Isere for a second night. Au the a la menthe, 8 Rue Hugues de Lionne, 26100 Romans – sur-Isere.
Sunday 16th September 2018
After a good breakfast drove along the river side and headed for Grenoble. Thierry assured me I would have no problem with traffic through the city on a Sunday. The drive Romans –sue Isere to Bourg d’Oisans is 105km (66 miles) taking me 2 hours 09.30 – 11.30. I then cycled Bourg d’Oisans to Col du Galibier BIG 291 2646 metres 37km (23 miles) 5 hours up, 2 hours down 11.30 – 18.30. This was a fantastic experience along ‘memory lane’ – a repeat of the first time in July 2010 but this time with car assistance to come back to. From the valley at Bourg on the gradual climb to the dizzy heights among cliff scenery and the Chambon reservoir followed by the climb to Col du Lautaret passing through La Grave and under La Meije was exciting. I stopped at a restaurant at Col du Lautarat for a meal and relaxed awhile then tackled the big one. There were plenty of other cyclists up there and an English group that had climbed from the north side. No problem then getting some selfie photos done! On the way down recorded sounds of marmots and a photo of one then descended back down to the car at Bourg d’Oisans. On then to Chantemerle, 47km (30 miles) from Col du Lautarat, where I would have liked to have cycled Col du Granon BIG 292 2413 metres but this would be too adventurous and there was insufficient daylight hours left. Continuing on, drove Chantemerle to Briancon. 9km (5 miles) Arriving in Briancon at 21.30 and stayed overnight at Hotel de Paris, 41 Avenue du General De Gaulle, Briancon. I shopped at a supermarket nearby and ate in my room.
Monday 17th September 2018
Drive 31km (20 miles) 09.30 – 10.30 to Bardonecchia along the direct minor road along Vallee de la Claree and later over Col de l’Echelle. My experience here was through a thick morning mist obliterating the scenery. Either side of the road are huge white cliffs and several tunnels to pass through then down to lower ground into Italy and Bardonecchia where I parked up for the climb of BIG 679 Colle Sommeiller 2993 metres. It was good fortune that I wasn’t cycling this climb on a Thursday as this road is closed every Thursday from 15th July to 30th September. (What do they do? Dust the road?) It’s 26km to cycle from Bardonecchia (16 miles) but took me 4.5 hours to climb, 10.30 to 15.00 and later 2.5 hours down. My descent was from 15.30 to 18.00 as there are plenty of photo opportunities. Last cycled – well-walked most of it – July 2010.The start of the climb once out of Bardonecchia is along a narrow thickly wooded area on asphalt pot-holed road to Rochemolles. From that point on the continuation is gravel but the final section is small stones. It’s impossible to cycle Colle Sommeiller on a normal road bike. I had brought my mountain bike from England specifically to conquer this climb. After Rochemolles the way forward begins with some steepness but passing the reservoir further along the climb is more gradual. Ahead the mountains close in and a steeper climb and hairpins, passing a waterfall and further up where the track goes over into an upper valley then a gradual ascent to the stony section that is also steep. At the end of the track there’s an open area with a low wooden barrier to stop vehicles going further to the very top – a 100 metres further to the very top with a lake in front and the mountains surrounding with the view over the other side further into Italy. Back down to the car and drove from Bardonneccia via Col de l’Echelle back to Briancon. 18.00 – 19.00. I stayed a second night at Hotel de Paris, Briancon
Tuesday 18th September 2018
Drive 56km (35 miles) 09.30 to 11.00 to Pourrieres to begin the climb to BIG 680 Colle delle Finestre 2176 metres from south at Pourrieres 11km (7 miles) 2.0 hours up, 1 hour down. Every Wednesday and Saturday in July and August this route is closed to vehicles but not bicycles from 09.00 to 17.00. Last cycled – walked most of it from Susa – July 2010. Scenic journey but busy with coaches and lorries passing over the Col de Montgenevre then through the narrow streets of Cesena Torinese. Asked at the tourist information office in Sestriere for information on the road to Finestre and was given clear direction. I began the climb at 11.15 and reached the top of the road at 13.00. The route is tarmac all the way. On reaching the crossing road coming in from Sestriere to the west at Pian dell Alpe I could see that the surface is gravel however to the east on the ridge road it’s asphalt as far as the junction to Colle delle Finestre to the left and north. To the south and on to Fenestrelle the road it's gravel. I had anticipated gravel to Colle delle Finestre but this was only from the north side commencing in Susa that I had cycled eight years previously. The road to Susa snakes down the mountain as far as the eye could see. The route from the south isn’t difficult but it’s not as interesting as the north side. From the start it passes through farm areas to the road junction then open country to the junction for Colle della Finestre then steeply up. At the top of the pass is an old fort just north of the road summit. On the right up and along a 100 metre path at a flat area is an indication of heights of well known mountain passes in the area together with a rock sample of each area. I asked other cyclists to take my photo then returned back down the mountain the same way - except for some confusion below Balboutet and took the road east instead of west and came down to the main road at Lisseaux then cycled the main road west and back to the car. Later I drove 165km (106 miles) via Pinerolo, Cavour, Saluzzo and Dronero to Bassura below Stroppo for my next climb in the morning. I was hoping to stay in Stroppo for the night but there was nowhere to stay there so returned back down and asked at a restaurant at the head of the road. They directed me the 1km into Bassura and found a good place to stay, La Locanda, a stone built house that didn’t look much from the outside but quite big internally. I enjoyed a three course meal at a 12€ set price and reasonable price accommodation.
Wednesday 19th September 2018
A good breakfast and away at 09.00 from Bassura where it’s steeply up through small Stroppo village with its orange and yellow horizontal stripe church of San Giovanni then to Cucchailes where there’s a downward section to skirt the mountain and gradually up again through a wooded area then into an open clearing and a ridge to the road junction for Elva to the left and BIG 684 Colle di Sampeyre 2284 metres to the east. At the top is a turquoise Madonna statue and at the highest point off road is a rocky outcrop similar to Dartmoor tors. From the south east it’s 18km (12 miles) and this took me from 9.00 to 12.15 – 3.1/4 hours up, then 1 hour down. (12.30 to 13.30). Back to the car then drove to 56km (35mls) to Demonte at 14.30 and parked up at the car park opposite the road junction. From here I cycled gradually up through the woods to San Giacomo, then steeply west away from the village but this soon became a more gradual ascent. On meeting a cattle grid and into open country the road becomes steeper as the mountains were approached. I was climbing Colle Il Fauniera - or Colle dei Morti – The Hill of the Dead BIG 685, at 2481 metres. It really is the hill of the dead as Marco Pantani’s statue crowns the top of the pass. The statue doesn’t do him justice as his head looks like a skull. After the cattle grid it was a struggle to reach the top as the road became steep until a lone hostel on the right was reached. From there it’s a bit easier until a farmstead off to the right where the road veers round to the left in a wide arc then to the ridge of Col di Valcavera then swings to the right and skirts under a mountain side sloping down from the north to a cut in the rocks, around to the left and a final short rise to be greeted by the face of Marco Pantani. There was no one else there with Marco except for a girl cyclist who had overtaken me a short distance back. I asked her to take my photo – and with Pantani – but of course no comparison – except I’m living a lot longer. It was quite cold on the descent back down the way I came. I was glad of jacket and gloves. On the way down, traffic signs diverted any traffic along two tracks in two places but the diversions were on gravel. I stayed on the road to avoid having to slow my descent. My ascent took from 14.30 to 18.10 and the descent 18.30 to 20.00, 25km to the top.
Thursday 20th September 2018
Last night I found Hotel Belsito hotel at 21.30 at Beguda west of Borgo San Dalmazzo and ate two pastas. Following breakfast I left the car at the hotel and began the climb of BIG 686 Colle di Tenda 1908 metres from the north at 31km (20 miles) 4 hours up, 2 hours down. 11.00 to 17.00. I was flying along as far as Limone where the real climb begins. There are a series of curves towards the tunnel followed by the old road for Limonetto and the colle to the right – no way I wanted to approach the tunnel – anyway – bikes aren’t allowed and no wonder. It’s a narrow tunnel for its 3.5km length. A lot more hairpins on the way to the colle but this made it easier. I passed Chalet Marmotte then the final stage of a kilometre to the end of the surfaced road. From that point it’s gravel down to France – however the top of Colle de Tende is in France. Chalet Marmotte is the border. At the top I took to the forts over to the left on the gravel section. These were built by the Piedmontese centuries ago and the area of the forts covers a wide expanse. Over to the orientation circle to take in the view, especially the 40+ hairpins leading steeply down to Tende village. I last cycled Colle di Tende from the south in July 2001 by road bike on the gravel surface. At the time it was fine gravel so it was possible. The north side is asphalt all the way. Later back to Chalet Marmotte and had a beer with sausage, warm cheese and onion. Later back down to Limone stopping for the usual photos. From there back on the gradual downhill slope to the car then later returned back into France via the Tende tunnel. Drove Borgo San Dalmazzo to Tenda 40km (25 miles) 1 hour 17.30 – 18.30 then drove Tenda to Menton 88km (55 miles) 3 hours. What were the police looking for at Sospel and why were there road blocks? I tried to find a reasonable price accommodation in Menton however the cheapest was 75€ and that didn’t include breakfast. I gave it a miss, parked on the front for a while to take a walk along the seafront then tried to cycle the coast to Monte Carlo but there’s no quiet road so called it a day, back to the car and headed for Nice on the cornice road. I parked up in Eze village and found a simple place to stay at Hotel du Golf. In the evening I had a pasta at Le Pinocchio restaurant.
Friday 21st September 2018
Away at 07.30 for a look around Eze village perched on the hill. Ruth and I explored this area some years ago. I had to move the car at 09.00 or pay the car parking fee. I drove on to Nice and had some difficulty trying to find the seafront, gave up because the traffic was too dense so decided to return the hire car early and explore Nice by bike even though it meant carrying rucksack and the flight bag strapped to the rack. I sunbathed along the front for an hour or so then made my way back to the airport. EasyJet flight EZY7066 Nice 16.35 to Liverpool, arriving 17.55. I took the bus to Liverpool Parkway then the 18.44 train to Crewe, arriving home 20.00.