Austria and Bavaria, June 2005

Austrian and Bavarian Cycling Tour, June / July 2005

 Overall distance at start 3685km

 Wednesday 22nd June 2005

From Kings Cross Thameslink to Luton Airport station. Put bike on the airport shuttle bus that takes ten minutes to the airport because I didn’t know how to get there from the station. I slept for a while in the departure area but it was a bit noisy even with earplugs in. The security and safety announcements every 15 minutes were becoming annoying even if the voice was a sweet one. I tied myself to my locked bike so it couldn’t wander by light-fingered hands.

 Thursday 23rd June 2005

Check-in started at 08.30 but I had the bike apart before then and packed away in two Wilkinson’s bags bought in the store for £3.99 each. At that price they will do for the outward and return trip then I’ll dispose of them. Put the deflated wheels either side of the frame, chain on to largest rear sprocket to protect the rear gear and also on to the smallest chain-wheel and bubble wrapped both rear gear and large chain-wheel. Pedals removed and bars turned parallel and strapped to the frame. It took me about ¾ of an hour to disassemble and bag the bike, secured with nylon string and furniture tape. On to a trolley then wheeled it along to the check-in with my two panniers tied up in a Royal Mail sack. Having checked in then had to wheel it along to the oversize check-in. Relieved of all except a cloth carry bag with camera, passport, tickets, food and reading I walked outside to the airport chapel across the road and committed the holiday to God for protection on the roads, hidden dangers, success in finding accommodation each night and for glorious weather. At the end of the holiday I got all this except for some rainy days but none so bad as to disrupt my planned agenda. The plane left on time and the pilot announced we would be flying at 30,000 feet – suppose that’s the highest my bike will get! We would fly out over Brighton, Koln, following the Rhine down to Frankfurt, Munich, and Vienna and on to Bratislava. We would arrive 15 minutes ahead of schedule as good weather helped as well as a vacant slot in Bratislava before the scheduled arrival time. In Bratislava the carousel wasn’t working so everybody was scrambling about for their cases. I wasn’t in too much of a rush so I let the mêlée die down before grabbing my bike and panniers. My bike was once of the last things off so just as well. EasyJet took very good care of it. The only fault was that the chain had come off the chain wheel and was wrapped around the bottom bracket but that was soon remedied.  It took a lot more time to untangle the string and tape off the bags. I re-assembled the bike in the arrivals area by the outer doors then changed for the ride out to Bratislava. I was told at the information desk that the main station was 12 kilometres away but on cycling it found it was only 6km. I was out of the airport at 15.15, the roads were busy and dusty and along the way there were plenty of trams, trucks and buses. Most cars were quite old and I could smell the bad fumes so was glad to get to the main station but this was hard to find as there didn’t seem to be any directions to it. On arrival at the old station building it was equally as hard to understand the train information boards. I finally found out from the ticket office and was given a timetable. There was a train going soon to Vienna and I had 4 minutes to catch it so dashed for it – fortunately there were no steps to tackle. From Vienna Westbahnhof I had intended to get off at Melk but the doors wouldn’t open in the guard’s van but then they shouldn’t – I was trying to get off on the wrong side of the train. I made sure I didn’t make the same mistake at Pochlarn 10 km further along! I biked back to Melk via Ordning and tried to get in at the youth hostel on Abt Karl Strasse but it was full with a school party and the warden was absent. Soon found a night’s rest at Hotel Goldenes Ochs on Linzerstrasse for 25€ and had a salad (cheese, tomato, bread) and beer at a pub beer garden down the road (10.30€). It was enough as hardly any distance today.

Trip distance 42.79km, overall distance 3725km, height at Melk 190 metres, cycling time 2 hours 40 minutes, average speed 16kph, maximum speed 42.50kph, trip altitude 290 metres, maximum altitude 239 metres, average climb 3%, maximum climb 10%, total altitude 31932 metres, top elevation 1905 metres.

Friday 24th June 2005

Melk to Schromenau

Out from Melk to the Jauerling 961 metres, Brevette International Grimpeur  number 663, along the river Danube then over the Donaubrucke and right for Gossam from where the Jauerling is signposted. The road dips slightly at Maria Laach then a short distance up to the two red and white radio masts for 1km to the top from Oberndorf. At the Franz Josef Stone on the left at 961metres the road becomes a track. From here down slightly to Donaublick jauserstation Back down the pass the same way and collected my bags from the hotel, a look at the huge monastery train to St Polten. This is a busy place, took a quiet route parallel to the main road heading south through Altmansdorf and Ochenburg to rejoin the main road south of St Georgen. Along an easy road from Rainfeld then south and slightly up to Kleinzell then off to the right where the climbing started up to Ebenwaldhaus, BIG no. 675. It was a tough climb up here on a hot day, four hairpins and a cobbled road up through the woods with a clearing near the top. Not a very interesting area at the top but the climb made up for it – some resemblance to La Redoute in Belgium though much higher. At 1000m at Ebenwaldhaus I carried on a little way as the road continued going slightly down, left at a white farm building then through a gate and up a little way to Ebenwald, total distance 7km from Kleinzell, then returned the same way. It took me 10 minutes but an hour to climb up from Kleinzell. I missed out Rainfeld by taking a right then continued along a very windy main road through Hainfeld then a long up to a place where a pub marked the top near Kollmannhof then down to Kaumberg, turned right through Wissenbach. There are plenty of places to stay here alongside the river but I wanted to continue to Furth and look for accommodation there – but once there found there was nowhere to stay. The one place there was full tonight. I rode back 2km to Schromenau and there was only one place to stay here on the inside corner of the main street, 36.20€ for accommodation and dinner.      

Trip distance 151.42km, current altitude at Schromenau 415m, ride time 8 hrs 21m, average speed 18.10kph, max speed 106kph, overall distance 3832km, trip altitude 2081m, max altitude 1000m, average climb 5%, total altitude 24299m, top elevation 2762 metres.

 Saturday 25th June 2005

Schromenau to Prein                                                                                      

Heading for the Hocheck (BIG no. 668) at the start of the day, along to Furth. Dodged under the barrier and had a sweaty climb up to the Hocheck. I didn’t stop on the way up; encouraged by another cyclist in front who was finding it was a very sweaty ride with his shirt off. I wanted him to stay in front all the way up and at the top I thanked him for ‘pulling me up as if by an invisible rope’. At the top, through woods and into a clearing I headed for the Hocheck house that is partly a farm and stopped at the restaurant on the wooden veranda. I later freewheeled down to Schromenau, this only took 20 minutes. I collected my bags from the hotel then made off in another direction, left for Steinwandklamm on a very interesting narrow lane that ends at Singerin. From here there is a steep gravel track over to Thal. I came a cropper on the way up here when I hit a stone. I was glad that one of the panniers cushioned my fall or I could have been badly grazed, however the panniers were part of my downfall as it’s difficult to steer on gravel with even a light weighted pair of panniers. Without the panniers there wouldn’t have been a problem – but then I need to take clothes, food and tools on the trips even though I try to leave them in places whenever possible. I pulled a leg muscle and lay there for a while waiting for the spasm to ease. Along the steep gravel track I turned right at the top wondering if this was the right way as I could also have gone left. Along here for about a kilometre to reach a lane at crossroads. I asked a walker the direction to Pernitz as was directed to the left. To the right is a pub and a sign indicating ‘Furth’. Surely there wasn’t another way up from there? Must check a more detailed map. Taking the turn it was a long sweep down to Thal then left at the bottom and through Muggendorf to Pernitz. Taking a right (east) it didn’t take long to reach Gutenstein at the junction of the Klostertal. Distances on my too low a scale map (1:300,000 of all Austria) are deceptive as the stretch to the top of the Rohrer Sattel, BIG no. 667 is a lot longer. Hardly any tree cover, this is an open green road with some sharp bends near the top and no marker up there to say you’ve reached it, only the long view down the other side. Did an about turn and back down the same way. Nothing to take a photo of up there to say ‘I’ve been there’. Back in Gutenstein battled against an eastern wind  heading for Hohe Wand (BIG no. 669) through Dreistetten where I freshened up at a pub but when I emerged the sky had turned an angry black.  On through Maiersdorf then 3km up through the woods to the top but it started raining then distant thunder began to crack overhead. Approaching car lights warned of heavy rain ahead but one positive point is that in the rain it made the climb much cooler – just like being in England! Cyclists don’t pay along this toll road but it puts many motorists off wanting to go up there, a dead end road so it was fairly quiet. On the way down the rain was getting worse as well as the lightning which by now was getting scary so thought it prudent to get away from the mountains for a while until the storm passed. I headed east to Welkersdorf then south for 10km along a flat dead straight road to Neunkirchen that I could see in the distance for miles before. I passed through the spa town of Reichenau, an historic place favoured by Franz Josef and other royals as depicted on Payerbach railway station with many old photos. The place has similarities to Matlock Bath with small bridges for genteel walks. I took a left for Edlach where I stopped to Vaseline a delicate part of my anatomy when at that very moment a nun passed by on a bike! I tried to find accommodation in Dorfl, the next village, but no go, one place was too expensive anyway at 48€. Continued on to Prein, 6km from Reichenau and found a gasthof on the left where they prepare their own organic food, a stay here cost 26€ including breakfast. I took a room and showered, feeling much better. Left my bags then continued on for 8km to the Preiner Gscheid, BIG no. 670. It wasn’t a difficult ascent, especially without bags. It took me ¾ of an hour to reach there. The Rohrer Sattel earlier today was more difficult but that was in the heat and with the panniers. I said ‘prosim’ to some Czechs up there who had got out of an old coach parked. Donned jacket and helmet for the quick descent down the pass. I followed a car down staying in its slipstream, 15 minutes later I was back at the gasthof. I noticed a road at the side of the pub that wasn’t on my map and it’s signposted for Semmering so must take that route tomorrow rather than go back to Reichenau. This would be a quick way to Sonnwendstein Alp.

Trip distance 131.15km (82 miles), Altitude at Prein 624m, ride time 8hrs 23mins, temperature 26 degrees even late in the evening, average speed 15.60kph, max speed 57kph, overall distance total 4003km, trip altitude 2255m, max altitude 1060m, average climb 5%, max climb 17%, total altitude 34187m, top elevation 1905m. Cycling times 09.00 to 17.50 and later at 18.15 to 19.15.

Sunday 26th June 2005

Prein to Weiz

This was a day of four passes to catch up with my planned schedule – and at the end of the day I was absolutely shattered! I had an interesting ride up to Orthof with some company – the girl from the hotel wanted to accompany me to that point to make sure I got on to the right road at the top, climbing steeply all the way. She told me what life was like living in the area. I set off at 08.15 with her and said goodbye at Orthof then I continued alone joining up with the road from Reichenau. From there it was a long downhill to Breitenstein – what a waste! Uphill and passing under a huge two tiered arched railway viaduct. There was train going over making the whole thing look impressive. Eventually reached Semmering, a spread out spa town but took a wrong turning when I emerged on the main road so turned back uphill to head for the Sonnwendstein, BIG no. 671 that starts from Semmering Kurort (spa). From there to the left then right and second left up a surfaced track for 305km to the top of the pass, the road completely covered by trees all the way up and I was glad of this in the heat of the day. I left my bags in a café after having coffee. The top is marked by a radio mast. Back down the same (and only) way and along the cycletrack to the north of the main road, indicated Steinhaus and passing into Styria. It was easy going at first as I branched off south in Steinhaus heading for Pfaffen Sattel for the Stuhleck, BIG no. 672. I soon reached Froschnitz with a small castle ruin to the left of the road, after that the road started to climb and after a few kilometres came an abrupt rise that seemed to go on with no end in sight and the pesky flies were having a field day buzzing around my neck and landing on the bars to feed on my sweat – not nice. I was determined to get some effective insect spray as soon as I passed the next pharmacy – not many up here though. I could have done with a portable shower fitted to the bike, I was soaked in sweat – (ahem – perspiring profusely!)...And I wanted to drown the flies. At Pfaffen Sattel I stopped for an apfelsaft and spritzer, partly to get away from the insects. I left the bags at the pub and set off up the gravel track to Stuhleck, 4km away and fairly steep in places. My 32mm tyres were tricky to manoeuvre on the gravel but an hour later I reached the open top from 1368m at the Pfaffen Sattel to 1782m at the Stuhleck. There is nowhere to eat at the top so back down again – and I fell off taking a turn too sharply. I think it was rather dangerous coming down as I tend to relax the brakes! At Pfaffen Sattel collected the bags then a long sweep down the other side to Rettenegg then slightly down to Fischbach stream on the main road to Weiz where I would spend the night but before that I wanted to take in two more climbs. Followed the stream then very steep up to Fischbach, a beautiful village on a plateau just a couple of kilometres below the Auf der Schanz, BIG no. 673. Although only a small climb from Fischbach it’s an interesting road with views back and at the top but there is no marker up there. The only indication is when you start off downhill so then I knew I was over the hill (speak for yourself!) I had plenty of trouble with pesky flies again as it was a very hot day. Back the same way and collected my bags from behind a tree above Fischbach then back through the village and a very interesting wooded road, some ups as well as downs at first and on to Birkfeld where I was a bit confused with the road layout as I came in. I shouldn’t have gone into the village but continued on along the minor road heading west. My next climb was the Strassegg. It was steep up from Birkfeld but this is the steepest it gets along this road. Left my bags at a restaurant after eating and asked if I could leave my bags for a couple of hours – no problem. Slightly down to Haslau then up gradually to Gasen. This is a pretty village. I called at the tourist information to ask how far to the top – 4 or 5 kilometres. Measured the distance and I compromised – it’s 4.5km. Easy going as far as Gasen but then a steeper climb but only at 11%. I was told in Gasen that there was a party going on at the top – some party! It was an oompah band and the full works! Auf dem Strassegg (BIG no. 674) could be seen from about 2km away as this final part of the road is a long upward curve negotiating the curving ridge to the top and from that distance I could see the whole area was packed with parked cars. A short distance from it I heard the band in full swing. I had a wurst and beer and a friendly clink of glasses with the locals. Didn’t need language but Steirische is far too difficult! There was a large marquee and a large barn housed the band and the eats. For once there was a road height marker at the top. Stayed about an hour then away and back in Schroberkogel above Birkfeld to collect my bags. Took another road from this point through St Georgen and back to the main road south of Birkfeld. From there through Anger and Grub into Weiz. Weiz was a long time coming with some hilly sections after Anger but a good road and kept up a good speed to the end of the trip arriving at 20.30 just as the sun was setting.

Trip distance 157km (98 miles), current altitude at Weiz 459m, ride time 10 hrs 18mins, average speed 15.2kph, max speed 62kph, overall distance 4160km, trip altitude 3137m, max altitude 1433m, average climb 5%, max climb 17%, total altitude 37436 metres.

Monday 27th June 2005

Weiz to Bad Eisenkappel

It’s 29 kilometres to Graz and hillier than I anticipated. A long sweep down to Raab and a view of the Shockli to the north. Up from Raabthen down again to Rabnitz, up again then a long downhill through Maria Trost into Graz. Eventually found the station after a lot of wandering. I queued a while to buy a ticket and was told I had to book a bike on a train 6 hours before! I wasn’t having this, I ran down the escalator with the bike with no time to spare and boarded the train just before it pulled out. I had an immediate connection in Bruck to Klagenfurt and took it even though only minutes before I was pondering the idea of carrying on to Kapfenburg and cycling the Windgrube then on to Mariazell and head west from there over more passes but I will approach them from Klagenfurt heading north later in the tour. I got off at Scheifling and rode the Neumarkt Sattel, BIG no. 655. This is a short but steep climb into open country for a few kilometres. Only a brief trip as I then caught the next train on to Klagenfurt from Mariahof. In only 3km the road rises abruptly at 21% to the summit. I was glad to board the train for a breather! The road rises further past Mariahof on its way to Neumarkt but I didn’t experience this. Perhaps this should be the real top and not Neumarkt Sattel? On to Klagenfurt and I got very confused on my way south east from the city after Ebenthal. I asked several people for directions – one extremely useless as he didn’t know the way down his own street! I received the best help from a driving instructor who didn’t even live in the area. From the roundabout south of Zell I was directed through Gurnitz then a steep road up through woods to Rottenstein then a long way down with Pantani’s name painted on the road to the river Drau, some great views ahead. Past a lake then over the Drau Bridge to Moos and a struggle up the steep hill in the heat to Gallizien. I stopped to buy milk (0.30€ & 1.19€) and Leib Wachter Krauter – der feinherbe Krauter Bitter aus 58 wohltuenden Krautern, Wurzeln und Fruchten, made in Salzburg, very nice – cherry flavour - for this evening. It tastes like what we had in Sinabelkirchen at Petra’s uncle’s house. From Gallizien it’s an easy road to Bad Eisenkappel. I found a room at Pension Besser for 36€. I left the bags here and continued up to the Seeberg Sattel, BIG no. 661 at 1218 metres. The small restaurant at the top was just closing at 20.30 but just made it and so did two motorcyclists. The owners were upstairs so could have pulled myself a drink! Shouted upstairs and they came down, bought a beer at the top to celebrate. This is the most southerly part of the country. Took a photo of the road summit marker and customs (photo 5372) the back down the same way and counted 28 road turns back to the small town. Turned off part way for a 5 kilometre diversion to Paulitscher Sattel but by the time I got there it was dark so no photo opportunities. There is a road summit marker at the top, back down in 20 minutes, glad that I had effective lights. Back to the hotel at 21.50 and just enough time to get a pizza and beer from a pub across the road, the only place that would serve meals at this time. I tried to ignore a drunk at the next table who shouted across asking ‘Wo kommen aus?’

 To try to put him off I said ‘Russki – Mokbar’ and asked the landlady to vorgeben mich! Finishing the meal I chatted with an Austrian who spoke no English but was careful to use high German and slowly. I surprised myself with how much German I could recall to have a conversation. He told me about his work as a chef in Gallizien and how much he enjoyed living in this part of Austria.

Trip distance 116km, current altitude at Bad Eisenkappel 545m, Ride time 6 hrs 34 mins, average speed 17.60kph, max speed 58kph, overall distance 4277km, max altitude 1339m, average climb 3%, max climb 18%, total alti 35615m, top elevation 1339m.

Tuesday 28th June 2005

Bad Eisenkappel to Althofen

I thought today would be straightforward, how wrong I was! Chatted to an English guy who wanted to tell me about some cycle tracks in the mountains and would join me. I said I wanted to go to Eisenkapplerhutte but he wanted to go elsewhere on a mountain bike but joined me as far as the first turn to the left where there was another pass. Glad of the company, English too, we parted and I continued up past the toll booth where motorists have to pay to continue further. It was a sweaty and flugen filled ride despite plastering myself with insect repellent – maybe these are a special strain with immunity to cyclists! I had bites on my left leg, even after a heavy dose of spraying- try praying. It was a longer ride than expected and took 2 hours through the woods but with great views in-between the trees of the valley below and Slovenia Mountains in the distance. At the top of the Eisenkapplerhutte, BIG no. 660 is a simple hole in the wall serving hatch in the large wooden hut to buy drinks, snacks and souvenirs. Inside were toilets and showers. I asked about riding on the gravel to the top of the Hochbir mountain 5km away but told it wasn’t possible on my type of bike as the track becomes much narrower and steeper and is a footpath only. It is possible to reach the gap between Minichout and Hochbir 3km away but no further at about 1800m. I mounted the bike again on the gravel but after about 500m a stone had lodged between my rear rim and tyre. I didn’t know it until I rode over a cattle grid on the way down. The pressure on the tube pushed the stone further into the tyre and exposed the metal rim of the tyre that rubbed on the tube – the result was an explosion! It was a long walk back down the mountain as I didn’t have my tools or spare tube with me. It wouldn’t have done any good though as I also needed a new tyre or another tube would blow exposed to the bare metal tyre rim. It was a long walk back down the mountain – about 10 miles and was shattered when I got back about 13.30. I could truthfully say that I knew the pass well after that experience – every mile of it. It rained a little on the way down but only a shower. At the toll booth I asked the man there to request motorists to pick up a cyclist lower down who was having a long walk back to town. One did stop about ¾ of the way down. The man and his wife were from Wolfsberg and it was raining again but stopped when I got out of the car. The hotel keeper from last night at Hotel Besser rang round to find a bike shop but there were none in the area. The nearest garage would have to buy one in and that would take a couple of days – no way! I asked if he could find the nearest bike shop and so he rang round. The nearest was at Unterburg 18km away to the north. He gave me a lift there but that cost me 30€ plus another 12€ at the bike shop for another tyre and tube but it saved the holiday. The new tyre is 38mm as opposed to the 32mm I had before but then if I tackle any more gravel tracks I’m equipped for it. The area around Unterburg seems popular for leisurely cycling as there were plenty of families around on bikes. There are two lakes nearby called the Kleinsee and Klopeinersee and the area north of the Drau is flat. It was a hot ride via Wasserhofen over the Volkermarkter Stausee by the long curved pink railed bridge and along the north shore a way before climbing up to Sankt Magdalena and into Volkermarkt. Along to Aich and down to Mittertrixen then up to Obertrixen (of course!). Don’t miss a trixen. It was long sweep down to the Klagenfurt road then level on a quiet road to Pischeldorf then a right for Magdalensberg. A whole side of a hill has been quarried away here and dumper trucks were ploughing back and to. Took the next right for the 5km road to the top of the Magdalensberg, BIG no. 658. The first part of the road was easy enough but then I saw the road in front on a long upward curve to the right and could see the white church of Magdalensberg crowning the top. I thought at first it is about the same height up as Mow Cop but this church is bigger and it’s about twice as far to the top. The only resemblance is a structure at the top that can be seen for miles around. I left my bags behind a tree and marked the particular tree among many by leaving a twig by the side of the road – hope I twig on the way down! Hope nobody moves the twig! I then tackled the curve that would take me under the hill then approached the summit to the left, passing some earthworks at Ausgrabungen then a steep section for 900m in open country to the chapel of St Helena and Magdalene and the gipfel. Had a look at the chapel, only a shell inside. Turned tail and freewheeled back the same way ¾ hour later. I reached Sankt Veit and on to Althofen. I didn’t want to stop in Sankt Veit as it didn’t seem interesting, mainly an industrial area. At Treibach on the river Gurk a short climb to the east to reach Althofen old town. I asked in my best German at an old inn for a room and the owner replied in English. “How do you know I’m English?” “By the way you speak German!” she told me she is Canadian and from Vancouver, her father is Austrian and mother English. What a mix! She made lasagne and oiled salad for tea followed by apple strudel. She did my washing so for morning I would have 2 clean pair of cycle shorts, 2 pair of socks and a clean top that I’ve been wearing the last few days. I’ll be no different on the photographs! Hopefully tomorrow morning I will ride the Klippitztorl and back, 50km.

Trip distance 92.37km (58 miles), current altitude at Althofen 711m, ride time 7hrs 22 mins, average speed 12.5kph (good considering I walked a great deal), max speed 55.5kph, overall distance 4369km, trip altitude 1976m, max altitude 1508m, average climb 6%, max climb 17%, total altitude 29413m, top elevation 2762 metres.

Wednesday 29th June 2005

Althofen to Mariazell

What a breakfast! Hot sausages, beans, two fried eggs, bacon, toast and scallop potatoes (chips with skins). It was very nice but a bit too much, Coffee and orange juice as well – she did me proud! I slept during the night but the alarm woke me at 05.00 but soon went back to sleep. I didn’t leave until 09.10 as she loves talking! I left my bags there but just took one with essentials. I set off east and nearly took a wrong turn going up to Gotteringburg. Back down through the village and right past the 4 star hotel (mine was much better and a lot cheaper, probably ate a lot more too!) Gradually up through woods then a long sweep down to Guttering. There were road works in the small town and the result was chaos for the traffic. I wheeled the bike through and on again the other side up a way then down to Mosel. It only took me 40 minutes to reach here and thought the Klippitztorl, BIG no. 657, would take about an hour looking at the map but it took 2 hours as it was very steep, especially past Lolling. The flies were a nuisance again despite spraying insect repellent on exposed skin (does this stuff work?). I could see the top about 3km away after the hairpins that brought me to the ridge but had a long clockwise circuit and gradual up across the mountainside to reach it. I reached there at about 11.40 and asked a parked biker to take a photo of me with the road summit marker. Back down the mountain at a fast pace and returned to Althofen the same way and was back at the digs at 12.30. More talking, she was telling me about the chemical industry in the village below. The inventor of Osram log life gas lighting – some more gassing then I said goodbye and down the hill to the bahnhof. I was fortunate to catch a train that was just drawing in, the 13.32 to Bruck am der Mur. Two and half hours later and an immediate local connection to Kapfenburg as the train was just about to go. No charge for this as I was with two elderly cyclists (probably not much older than me – but looked it!) They escorted me from Kapfenburg Bahnhof a short way and set me off on the road for Aflenz Kurort. Most of the way I enjoyed a new cycle track that the two cyclists suggested I use. It has a very good surface after about 2km from Kapfenberg then its continuous all the way to Aflenz. I turned off to the left at Folz and followed the valley along a straight and level road to Folzgraben. It becomes a track after the first bridge over the stream and I continued along to the jauserstation. It’s very stony from here and only possible with a mountain bike so turned back. I can get to Burgeralm this way but it would be difficult. Folzklamm before this is reached over laid logs and boarding. The klamm is similar to one near Bled in Slovenia. I felt uncertain walking back down over the logs as they are spaced apart and the water is gushing below, a fast flow through the gorge. The logs were slippy and nowhere to hold on to. I could come to no danger though but could lose my glasses between the logs, Plated cycle shoes are not the best type of shoes to walk with. I took some notes of boards along the way with German poems, etc.:

‘Alpinsteig Hans Leitner durem das gross zugige entgegen- kommen der buraeglichen forst und almgemeinschaft Aflenz und den dankenswerten einsatz der soldaten des CWSR55 der kaserne St Michael, sowie der unterstutzung des varkersvereines Aflenz Kurort wurde dieser Alpinsteig im Sommer 1992 erricht diese roste fur welche man CA2 STD gehzeit benotigt fuhrt vom Schwabenbartl (814m) uber feldbaum und ahornreigl zur Burgeralm (1550m)

And also over a water fountain:

Das wasser ist sohell und klar, gluck, gluck

Sein alter ist veil tausend jahr, gluck, gluck

Man kannt es schon im paradies, gluck, gluck

Dir diretigen simmgekt os wundersuls gluck zum nachdenknen!

Das wasser ist fur mensch und tier die grossste gottesgabe, huten und pflegen wires, damit wir immer genug haben (die Steirmark Berg und Naturwacht)

It started getting unusually dark then thundery and it was only 18.30, back along the straight way to the main road, now decidly cooler air. I had the notion that it wasn’t too far to Mariazell but again how wrong I was. I should have looked carefully at the map. Up hill to Afflenz Kurort, the next road to the left and up the valley to the Burgeralm, BIG no. 666. About 5km I reached the top, not too difficult now it was cooler and the impending storm held a while longer, however 666 is a bad omen! Back to the main road, uphill to Jauring and down to Au- then ow- when the heavens opened. It felt like a thousand buckets of water had been thrown at me! I had another 30km to go to Mariazell and there was another pass called the Seeberg about halfway. It was a good thing really as I thought I was nearing the town but took cover in a bus shelter where an Austrian lady burst my bubble – and really she did me a huge favour by saying I had over 20km to go to reach Mariazell- and it was pelting down! One stroke of good fortune, there was bus due in a couple of minutes going to Mariazell. It was the best 4.40€ ever spent as the actual distance is 19 miles and uphill over the Seeberg Pass. It was really thrashing down and very dark. There was no way I could have made it over the pass and into Mariazell before midnight and it would have been impossible to find any where to stay or eat. That lady may have been an angel unawares. The bus arrived in Mariazell at 19.50 just as the rain eased off. Seen in the centre was a plaque showing the Catholic places of pilgrimage in Europe of which Mariazell is one. Others are Lourdes, Loreto, Fatima, Czestochowa and Altotting.        I found a room at the first port of call at Gasthof Jagerwirt just below the huge twin towered church in the centre that Mariazell is famous for. The girls in the restaurant that evening asked me about my holiday and were interested in my trip across the country. I told them I hoped top go over the (phonetically) ‘zeller rain’ in the morning and they laughed saying that’s not how you say it. The pronunciation  is ‘tzell e rran’ OK  - I’ll be corrected. I’m English – how could I know?

Trip distance 88.76km, current altitude at Mariazell 921m, ride time 6 hours, average speed 14.60km, max speed 65kph, overall distance total 4458km, trip altitude 1650m, average climb 5%, max climb 16%, total altitude 37529m, top elevation 1905 metres.

Thursday 30th June 2005

Mariazell to Admont and train to Bischofshofen

Usual bland continental breakfast so had meusli, yoghurt and some meat but packed some rolls with meat and cheese for the trip that I ate later, did this most days. Out at 08.45 on the road to Erlaufsee. Took a right out of Mariazell, right again and then left and followed the narrow gauge railway1 km down to the lake, very peaceful  early in the day, hardly anyone around. It’s a short way up to the main road then a ½ hour stint from the road junction for about 5km on a newly surfaced wide road to the top, hardly any traffic. Reached Zellerain, BIG no. 665 with no great effort but realise the major climb is up from the western side and found out on the descent how hard that would be. There was a slight up lower down before the turn off to Grubberg, a series of rocks on the right on the short climb, Took the Grubberg turn off as the left fork to Lunz continued down this road goes up but not for long. I don’t know why the Gruberrg, BIG no. 664 is in the BIG listing as it’s only a small rise and checking the map I knew I was on the right road. An inglorious brown sign on the right at the top indicates that I reached the top of the Grubberg. Inconspicuous in the woods at the top, I reached this BIG in 10 minutes. Down to the main road and turned left, steeply down to Lunz. A gradual up to Lassing and took a left for the 10km ride up the Hochkar, BIG no. 652. Again this is a toll road but it wasn’t manned today. There’s a large car park before the toll, presumably for the winter skiers. After the toll a short clearing then entered into the woods that continue to the top of the climb. I left my bags at the left side of the road under a pine tree then continued with essentials. The cows on the right were getting excited when I opened my bags, perhaps they thought their luck was in and lunch was being served. I left behind some very disappointed cows. I strapped a bag with essentials under my helmet then up the pass. At the top is a skier’s village and the typical huge open tarmac space for cars. I went up as far as the road goes above the large hotels and did a circuit round them back to the car park. I noticed a track for MXB above the road on the left but after my bad experience at Eisenkapplerhutte I wasn’t going to risk it a second time. My hands became numb holding the brakes on the way down as the top section is steep with hairpins but easier further down. Collected my bags then along to Gams back into Styria. There is a steep uphill from here then through Spaner then over the Enns by a long and high bridge span to Lainbach. Down then up again on the other side and into Hieflau. The road out of Hieflau is steep and mainly ups as far as Gstatterboden (the whole road system is being re-routed here and was like a huge construction site) then mainly down and I reached Admont in gentler countryside at 18.30 after passing through some interesting gorge scenery above the river in Ennstal, more downs than ups heading west. In Admont I had time to shop for cheese and crisps from a supermarket on the other side of town and have a beer then board the train leaving at 19.29. I had my tea on the train as it would be too late to eat in Bischofshofen. I biked around looking for a hotel oblivious to not having lights and was stopped by the police. I said I would walk and asked him if he knew of a hotel nearby. He told me where to go –nicely and settled for the night.

Trip distance 138km, current altitude at Bischofshofen 591m, ride time 8hrs 29mins, average speed 16.20kph, max speed 59kph, overall distance total 4596km, top elevation 2762m, trip altitude 2245m, max altitude 1823m, average climb 5%, max climb 16%, total altitude 31658 metres.

Friday 1st July 2005

Bischofshofen to Kitzbuhel

This was the first day of continual rain, and it rained most of the day. Through Muhlbach gradual up with all rainwear on but the rain made the air fresher so quite gemutlich in gortex, fully waterproof and breathable. Turned right from Muhlbach and was waved at from a window, waved back and rode up to the house! The lady came out and I cheekily asked if I could leave my bags here while I carry on to the top of the road at Arthur Haus, (BIG no. 632). She didn’t mind at all so long as I left them in the garage and it would be open for me on my return. It would also keep them dry as well as save me time and energy. There are series of hairpins above Muhlbach and the rain became worse higher up on a long straight stretch under an avenue of trees where it is also steeper, past a wooden house called Hochkeilhaus and a final steep section, rounding the bend to the left across a wide car park to Arthur Haus. I reached here from Muhlbach in ¾ of an hour. There are mountain paths here and it’s possible to cycle with BMX on stony track. I had a coffee and rum to warm me up and asked the waiter if he possibly had a pair of plastic handschuh (gloves) as my mitts were going to get saturated on the descent and my hands were already cold. These proved to be lifesavers as I needed them all day, hopefully not tomorrow as the weather forecast indicated it would be dry (checking in Saalfelden tourist information later.) Bought a postcard with Arthur Haus stamp on then set off down the mountain. It was a bit tricky at first on the wet road and my brakes weren’t as effective. I collected my bags ¼ later from the Haus Frenenheim and rejoined the main road heading for Dientner Sattel, BIG no. 630. The rain stopped and the sun came out and there was a sudden change of pedalling action down from high to low gear as the climbing starts immediately. It wasn’t too steep at first but with full weight it was an effort. Just outside Muhlbach on the right is an unhelpful signpost by a restaurant that indicates distances to many parts of the world including one up to Alpha Centuri. Don’t think I’ll ever get to bike out that far- maybe in Heaven! It was a long drag up the pass with a couple of 18% gradients then came the top , veering to the right and an unusual hump as the road could just as easily go over the lower slope to the left but to the hump and there are two restaurants either side. The larger one to the right was closed – ruhtag. I needed to warm up and dry my clothing so I took a while in the other restaurant and enjoyed bacon dumpling and mushroom soup and a salad with a lemon and Radler beer (non alcoholic) served by the man in charge, a 60+ wide paternal gentleman. The soup warmed me up but still needed those plastic gloves over my mitts for the steep descent to Dienten then in a deep hollow as there is an immediate short climb up again the other side to the Filzensattel, an unremarkable summit. There is no building just a car park on the right and an electric pylon, not worth stopping, not even a view. It was a long descent from here to Saalfelden, steep at first then into valley scenery. I asked at the tourist information about the weather and for tomorrow. I took a train from Saalfelden station to Kitzbuhel. From Kitzbuhel station straight on then left on a main road and next right and into the town centre. (on a one way system the wrong way!) I spotted the tourist information office on the right and asked about a room, only planning to stay one night. I was directed to Haus Koller in Gerbergasse at 37€ bed and breakfast.

Evelyn, the owner, is very friendly and makes everyone feel special. She offered to keep my bags here while I went for a train to Zell am See and cycled the Grossglockner tomorrow. It was only 17.30 and indicated I wanted to cycle the Kitzbuhler Horn, BIG no. 620, she looked doubtful and I found out why later! At 18.00 I was at the bottom of the pass but it took me until 19.40 to reach the top, mainly in rain and thick mist towards the top so I felt cheated – again. This was my second attempt after last year and still no view, all I could see from a few kilometres near the top was a few yards in front. On the lower section the weather was fine and was able to cycle in shorts and cycle top but higher up it was rainwear and leggings making the way forward tough as it’s much steeper on the higher section. For the descent it was full garb because it was so cold. Disappointed and a dangerous descent on a very steep wet road where I needed to keep pumping the brakes. Back at Haus Koller later I had to replace the brake blocks. This is probably the most challenging BIG I’ve rode as it was extremely cold, wet and steep. Although it only took me ¾ of an hour to get down the pass it was a hair raising experience and I was relieved to be back and just before dark (20.15). My front brake blocks, new only last week, were almost gone and relied on my rear brake to get me down the mountain, however on the descent this caused aching in my left arm but was OK again later after the ride. Trip distance 87.26km, current altitude at Kitzbuhel 717m. ride time 7hrs 50mins, average speed 11.10kph (all those hills!), max speed 42.50kph, stop watch 6hrs 50mins, overall distance total 4683km, navigator 956.44, trip altitude 2646m, max altitude 1656m, average climb 8%, max climb 18%, total altitude 34304m, top elevation 2762 metres. Ein Kuhler trunk macht alte jung!

Saturday 2nd July 2005

Kitzbuhel – Hahnenkamm – Kitzbuhel

This was supposed to be my imposed rest day but Evelyn made sure it wasn’t! she sent me on a recommended trip that turned out to be as trying as the Grossglockner. I took the cablecar at 13.00 to the Hahnenkamm, 13.80€ with a reduction of 20% showing my room reservation booking form that Evelyn gave me. I wondered how they were going to squash my bike into a cablecar and was curious when the cablecar attendant picked up a yellow bar with two hooks on it, top and bottom then fixed this to the side of the cablecar then picked up my bike then I suddenly got the picture and grabbed my bottles from the bike as he muttered and felt them. The bike dangled vertically on the outside, front wheel uppermost and the lower hook stopped it from swinging, just as well as it shuddered (probably with fright the poor thing!) when the gondola rumbled over the pylons. I was looking more at my bike than at Kitzbuhel down below slowly receding. I took the route number 11 on a brochure given me by – yes – helpful Evelyn, past Hahnenenkamm Stubl, Bernhard Kappelle and up winding tracks on gravel to Pengelstein. I became disorientated in the mist shroud up here and got lost. I went on to Schwarzkogel in error and was too far along the ridge so back to Pengelstein for directions in the café there. Walked back, leaving the bike at a track fork. Do I take the left or the right? The left goes only to Pengelstein See while the right goes very steeply down (40%) on the gravel but lower down I was out of the mist. On the descent I had to hold the bike and slide down. The red direction sign indicated ‘Aschau’ I arrived at Hieslegg, a farm and took the left for Aschau but soon found this track was going up and I definitely wanted to go down so I turned back and followed the other red indicator that pointed to Rettenbach, just to the south of Kirchberg at Skirat then past Schroll mainly new or renovated chalets. Near here was where the track became a road, only narrow but at least surfaced to enable me to get some speed up. After a short while and a great descent I was back in the valley on the lane from Aschau to Kirchberg, a look round the gift shops then took a right and a sedate ride back into Kitzbuhel at 18.00 passing Schwarzsee. I was just in time to shop at the Bella supermarket for chocolate and beer. I bought some Zipfer beer. ‘Zipfer marzen bier 5% ein glas heller freude’ – malt beer 5% a glass of white joy. Back to Evelyn’s and I decided to spruce up the bike as it deserved it for tomorrow’s highlight – well, needed it. I wheeled it to the back of the house and started to clean it. Evelyn brought round a tray of red wine and nuts and laughed when she saw me sitting on a chair from the room and looking as if I was milking a cow. I said that she (the bike) must be looked after and is appreciative when I clean her, oil her and pamper her! I adjusted the brakes having replaced both sets of blocks in the town this morning.

Current altitude 717 metres at Kitzbuhel, trip distance 38.25km, ride time 3 hrs 41min average speed 10.30kph, max speed 51kph, overall distance total 4721km, trip altitude 525m, max altitude 1870m, max climb 6%, total altitude 38054m, top elevation 1905 metres.

Sunday 3rd July 2005

Kitzbuhel – Hochtor Grossglockner – Kitzbuhler

I went for the 08.43 train to Zell am See, arriving 09.29. Rode along the cycleway by the side of the lake that also continued to Bruck then took the cycleway on the left as far as Fusch where it finishes then on to the road for the gradual climb starting at Barenwerk then becomes steeper, water fountain and great view at Judenbichl to level off at Ferleiten toll booths. There were plenty of other cyclists up and down here today, one girl cyclist I rode with for about a kilometre, she was Swiss. I started off at 10.00 from Bruck and took 4 hours (14.00) to reach Fuscher Torl followed by a 200m drop then a climb to the Hochtor, BIG no. 625 at 15.30  then back to Fuscher Torl at 17.00 – a great deal of stopping on the way down as the views were fantastic, it was a very clear day. Down to Bruck at 18.00. I boarded the 18.30 train back to Kitzbuhel. After a shower and change I away on the 20.15 train to Worgl at 20.43 and connected with a train to Kufstein, arriving at 21.30. I found a hotel opposite the station I was given a large apartment at reduced price and a great view of the river Inn and mountains from a veranda. I suppose the bartender here must be the innkeeper.

Current altitude at Kufstein 498m, trip distance 86km, ride time 6 hrs 22 min, average speed 13.40kph, max speed 61kph, overall distance total 4807km, navigator 85.74, trip altitude 2104m, max altitude 2443m, average climb 7%, max climb 18%, total altitude 36409m, top elevation 2762 metres.

 Monday 4th July 2005

Kufstein to Rottach Egern

Had a great breakfast this morning and was able to take plenty of fruit and made up rolls with me for later. A pleasant ride out in the sun this morning by the left bank (west side) of the Inn heading north into Bavaria on a cycleway hugging the river as far as Kieferstelden then along the road up a short way to Oberaudorf. Took the next left for Bayrischzell and the climbing began. The first few kilometres to Wall are very steep leaving the Inn valley. Just past the hairpin and pool at Tatzelwurm took a left in the woods indicating Sudelfeld. After passing over a bridge over a stream the road became steep, turned right at the top then up further into a clearing, great views across the valley across to the red and white radio mast at Wendelstein as I reached Grafenherberg restaurant. Just down from here slightly and to the left is the mountain road to Sudelfeld, BIG no. 198, 3km, the last kilometre was steep in reaching the beacon, restaurant and top of the chairlift. Back down to Grafenherberg then down to the main road and a long sweep down to Bayrischzell then a level valley road as far as Aurach. I turned left here and rode about a kilometre and hid my bags behind a tree putting a plastic bottle as a marker on the other side of the road. This wasn’t a good idea because when I came down the same way late the bottle had rolled downhill! I was ages looking for the bags below the trees in long grass; of course they were above where the bottle was. Must keep using twigs. It was a steep 3.8 kilometres up to Spitzing Sattel, BIG 197 made worse by kerb replacement BAWAG roadworks going on for most of the way up and a contra-flow system controlled by lights. Steadily up, no road bends and reached the top in about ½ an hour. Past the road works and fat back down to the main road. Into Schliersee from there along the lake. I asked the way in my best German but the fellow looked mystified. “You kein German” he said in neither German nor English. He certainly wasn’t either! He told me he was Slovakian when I said I was English. He directed me on and I soon came to a left turn to Gmund, over a hump and down to Tegernsee at Gmund. Turned right for the town of Tegernsee at the south end of the lake then along the lake cycleway to Rottach. Had a pasta meal, spaghetti Bolognese at the roadside at 4.20€ bargain price and a radler beer (beer and lemon. They didn’t understand me. I was corrected from the next table, I should have asked for einer rrr–adler bier! I asked if I could leave my bags there while I explored Wallbergerstrasse, BIG no. 196, to the left by the café just south of Egern, following a stream then to the right and to the toll gate. The barrier was down so I knew I was in for a quiet ride as the tool wasn’t manned. It is a tough ride up among the trees with a very steep middle section then the road veers to the left, some hairpins then past a chapel on the right and to the top marked by the end of the chairlifts. Great view across Tegernsee but not to the south as the higher Risser Kogel blocks the view toward Austria. I took 1.5 hours to do the 7.5km. On reaching the top the sky was quickly beginning to darken and very soon I heard thunder and it didn’t take long before the rain started and also a terrific wind. I got down the pass as quickly as possible in about ½ an hour; this was scary and dangerous among the trees on the descent. Took shelter in the tourist information office in Egern just as the rain turned nasty and asked if they could find me accommodation, and hopefully locally. The rain eased a bit, collected my bags from the café and made my way a short distance back toward the lake to a hotel. After a shower I went out for a walk along the lake when the rain stopped and found an Italian restaurant. This was a rip off – nouvo cuisine and I needed to eat! Was given a tiny slice of pig’s foot to begin with followed by the main pasta course, 4 tiny pieces of pasta in a huge bowl. “Is everything to your satisfaction, sir?” “No it isn’t, this isn’t a meal it’s a morsel. I need food” At least I got a ‘free’ dessert that was far more substantial but this will make me wary of Italian restaurants in future! Today’s plan was to finish in Kochel and head over the Kesselberg then south back into Austria so will have to re-think my plan for tomorrow.

Current altitude at Rottach Egern on south end of Tegernsee, Bavaria 767m, trip distance 88km, ride time 5 hrs 54 mins, average speed 14.80kph, max speed 83.50kph, navigator 173.52, overall distance total 4895km (755 miles so far), trip altitude 1406m, max altitude 1171m, average climb 5%, max climb 17%, top elevation 1905m, total altitude 39460 metres. (15161 metres on the tour so far).

 Tuesday 5th July 2005

Rottach Egern to Berchtesgaden

Set off in the rain through Bad Weissee on the other side of the lake then left just before Gmund and west to Bad Tolz at 12.00 via Wankirchen. I had a look around the old town with its large cobbled open area on the slope towards the bahnof. I caught a train to Munich on the Bayern Ober Bahn (BOB). Once in Munich I was planning to go to Immenstadt for the passes to the west then on to Dornbirn but the weather was so bad I decided to take shelter, especially as there was an immediate connection to Salzburg 10 minutes after arriving in Munich. I just made it and paid for my ticket on the train. I needed to dry out my shoes so had them off drying on the train heating. Needless to say nobody sat by me. I got off at Freilassing and caught an immediate connection to Berchtesgaden arriving at about 16.00. I spotted the tourist information office just across the wide road from the station and went to find a room for the night. The girls behind the desk were dressed in Bavarian grey and white traditional dress and wearing pigtails. The man across the way with short cropped fair hair manned the desk for the ‘Eagle’s Nest’ nostalgia tour – Hitler’s bunker and Alpine retreat – scary! I was allocated a room not far from the station, the Hotel Achental for 29€. (It better had be after last night when I was fleeced for 50€ when it was supposed to be 34€ and that coupled with a Spartan meal for 18€ made it a bum deal last night) As it was only 16.00 there was time to deposit the bags in the hotel and cycle the Kehlstein, BIG no. 200. This is extremely steep from the town, 28% on 3 stretches as far as Eagle’s Nest below the car park after arriving at a roundabout, just after this is a turn to the right and not very obvious road to the Kehlstein. The weather was atrocious so couldn’t take photos nor was there a view. The lone house on the top is the Eagle’s Nest but these days is an innocuous restaurant and called the Kehlstein Hutte. After a confused start in the car park above Hitler’s bunker I followed the steep track to the Kehlstein Hutte, round the edge of the Klingeckkopf to the right and up through the trees in a wide arc, passed through a short tunnel and reached the top in a clearing after one final broad hairpin. I must come here again in better weather to appreciate this climb. This is an edge to the Hoher Goll towering above. There wasn’t much to see today as it was raining so hard. There is a private way to the top where Eagle’s Nest is situated and walked up to it. I returned down the mountain to the car park and the bunker then turned right for Berchtesgaden via Oberau. This is a bit longer as the road emerges in the valley a few kilometres north east of Berchtesgaden. Back to the hotel and had a shower and change and into town. Found out the town was on a steep hill above the station

Current altitude at Berchtesgaden 544m, trip distance 61.5km, ride time 4hrs 12 mins, average speed 14.60kph,max speed 44.50kph, navigator 23485, overall distance total 4956km, trip altitude 841m, max altitude 104m, average climb 6%, max climb 21%, total altitude 37250m, top elevation 2762 metres.

Wednesday 6th July 2005

Berchtesgaden to Jenbach

I set off from Berchtesgaden in brilliant sunshine, it was a bit cool but I prefer that. I had a really good breakfast and tried to use my German but it was accepted. On to Ramsau. After Hintersee there is a gradual rise as I began the way up the Hirschbichl, BIG no. 199, the road becomes narrow but a good smooth tarmac surface and slightly up but only open to cyclists and walkers. I was now in the Berchtesgadenerland National Park. No cars are allowed until the Austrian border is reached. The final few kilometres shared with other cyclists was extremely difficult and involved some walking. Most others got off and walked at the first climb from the end of the valley and also another section 2km further along. After the first climb there are two large concrete slabs over a stream that acts as a bridge. There is also a short steep section near the Austrian border. Even one cyclists kitted out in the right gear had to walk so didn’t feel I was out of place! I passed under the bar at the border, positioned down so that cars can’t pass through from the Austrian side. No passports needed at the crossing point. There is a restaurant at the top on the right between the border and the actual pass summit 200 metres further along but hardly any more climbing, just a small hump to the top. There were scores of bikes parked around the restaurant and a bike workshop next to. The actual pass summit is on the Austrian side but most of the climbing in Bavaria. On the way down the other side I came across a road sign that indicated 30% gradient. This was the steepest section on this side going down to a stream but it’s steeper at the beginning of the climb on the German side but no indicator. After the sign the road twists and turns on the way to Weissbach, at one point there is an up to negotiate. From Weissbach it’s a pleasant 15km on a cyclepath/radweg all the way to Saalfelden. Boarded a train to Worgl, passing the Kitzbuhler Horn and immediate connection to Jenbach arriving at 14.30. I found the tourist information office, part of a travel agency by the wooden bridge over the stream in the centre of Jenbach. The girl in there fixed me up with a room for 20€ just past the Jenbachhof on the right, up some steps then right down a small road and a house on the right. I left my bags and explained that I would like to continue along the valley to Zillertal then followed the signs for Worgl. I thought the road for Zillertal seemed a long way but eventually found it, asked the way by a bridge over the river Inn – perhaps this was the Innkeeper? I found myself on the autobahn with a 1.5 mile tunnel in front of me. This just wont do so turned back, walking along the hard shoulder and back to the junction and found the next road to the right at a roundabout, the old road up the Zillertal indicated as Strass (stress?) This was the right road. Biked along here for 18km to Zell am Ziller and on to Ramsau in the valley and right for Hippach and began my climb up the zigzags heading for Zillertaler Hohenstrasse, BIG no. 616. There was some confusion on the way as I veered off the road somehow in Hippach, asked the way and eventually found the road up the mountain. What I thought were dark clouds passing over eventually produced light rain. I took shelter after a few kilometres in worsening weather and got soaked without rainwear that I left in Jenbach gasthaus as the weather had been so good today. At the top I took shelter in a restaurant and dried off with a towel offered and a hair dryer. I had spaghetti and a beer and was taken back down the pass in land rover with my bike in the trailer. Unfortunately my speedo base was dislodged from the handlebars in the trailer so for the following days stuck the speedo on with furniture tape that I used for packaging the bike on the flights. The rain became heavy and it was thunder and lightning. This was not a good time to be at the top of the Zillertaler Hohenstrasse. A family visiting the pub took me back to Zell am Ziller and checked the bus times for me to get back to Jenbach. I had missed the last bus at 19.30 and the last train at 17.00, it was raining hard so I asked for a lift back to Jenbach if I offered payment but no taxi fare or leave me here! He suggested 10€ when we arrived in Jenbach at 20.00 and I was grateful for his kindness.

Current altitude at Jenbach 608m, trip distance 110.49km, ride time 5 hrs 45 mins, average speed 13.90 kph, max speed 52 kph, navigator 80.49, overall distance total 5067km, trip altitude 1957m, max altitude 1934m, average climb 6%, max climb 20%, total altitude 39507m, top elevation 2762 metres.

Thursday 7th July 2005          

Jenbach to Bregenz

My bike computer was kaput after being knocked off my bike in a trailer yesterday as I retreated from Zillertal in heavy rain. Later on I thought of using furniture tape too stick it on to the base and it worked, though at first I couldn’t read the face of it. German conversation only at breakfast but thought I did quite well, perhaps they had a laugh at me afterwards. Later I left my bike in the garage and walked to the tourist information office. Told the girl there who found me the room yesterday that the accommodation was very good and asked if there was a bus or cablecar from Zell am Ziller to the Zillertaler Hohenstrasse. I was told there was no public service there. I went back to the chalet, collected my bike and rode down to the bahnhof where there was a local train to Innsbruck only 15 minutes later. My initial intention was to ride from Innsbruck to the Mutterbergalm but due to the unpredictable weather conditions that would have been too ambitious and could become a repeat of the Zillertal yesterday. I decided at Innsbruck to go for the Aarlberg Express 1¼ hours later that would whisk me across to the western edge of Austria to Bludenz at 12.30. In Bludenz I took the road up  to the Douglas Hutte, BIG no. 603. This is a long road up to begin with and steep through the woods but levels out after about 6km then along to Brand, the end of the valley. After that the well surfaced road becomes narrower, steeper and wilder up through the trees into open country, passing over a stream by a series of 3 short bridges until the cablecar station is reached just below Douglas Hutte. I was riding in thick mist after Brand and couldn’t see more than a few yards in front or behind, it was also fine rain after Brand and I was glad of my gortex protection. It was colder nearer the top and for the last time relied on those plastic gloves I asked for at Arthur Haus a few days before. I remembered that the post bus had passed me on the way up and it was now returning about 20 minutes later so that was a sure sign I was nearing the top. The Sielbahn to the Douglas Hutte then loomed into shape through the mist and I came to the flags lining the car park. Just past the sielbahn and to the right of it was the track from the end of the road that followed the short cableway to the Lunersee and the Douglas Hutte on the nearside where the cablecar finished. It was a short but tough ride- mainly walking with the bike – up to the end of the track, stony but rideable with a mountain bike that I didn’t have. Motorists can’t go up here as there are large boulders laid across the width at the bottom of the track but no problem on a bike or motor scrambler. I was glad that there were none of these today, As well as people going up by cablecar I was the only person on the track up and down. I couldn’t see anything up there and only did it as it would be one of my last climbs in Austria this year. It took me 2½ hours to reach the top from Bludenz. The Douglas Hutte is a large complex, I stayed awhile to get warm and kitted up for the decent back to Bludenz but walked back down to the Sielbahn as I wanted my tubes to survive the rest of the trip. On the road I freewheeled down with hands on my brakes on a very wet steep road back to Brand where the mist dispersed and was able to ride down dry and in safer conditions in 20 minutes to Bludenz and back to the bahnhof. I didn’t have long to wait for a train. At 15.42 a local train drew in that would take me to Gotzis at 16.40 for another attempt at my final Austrian Pass, the Mulrutte, BIG no. 601. I enjoyed this route the first time last year but hoped for better weather. It isn’t as high as the Douglas Hutte and was enveloped by cloud at the top at 1071 metres. It took me 1½ hours to reach the top at 18.15 and 20 minutes to get down. The pass is steep all the way up except for a brief respite at half way where there are some houses. To reach Mulrutti from Gotzis bahnhof the way is straight out from the station, directly behind then slightly up to the left, over the main road from Feldkirch to Dornbirn, straight past the large church on the left then continue up to Marktgasse where the road swings to the right and becomes Mesachstrasse after about 2km and a sudden rise up through the woods then following the road under a rockwall on the left, a steep drop to the right, it snakes along the side of the mountain on the left side of the upper valley, eventually to reach a road junction by Burghaus at Mesach then right for about 2km to the top, past a few scattered buildings and a final; steep rise then a swing to the left and the Mulrutti jauserstation is across the car park. It’s not possible to take a bike further than this. At the top there are wanderwegs to the right over the alpine meadows but not very inviting in the overcast conditions but at least it stayed dry and clear for me most of the way up and I had a view. I had a radler in the Mulrutti and bought a postcard to send to Ruth that would be stamped with the Mulrutti postmark. After an hour telling the woman in there my exploits over the last 2½ weeks from Bratislava I turned tail and rode down. It only took me 15 minutes to reach Gotzis. I was fortunate in meeting a train connection with only a few minutes to wait at 19.42 and on to Bregenz at 20.30. I followed hotel directions in the town as the tourist information office was closed. I booked in at Pension Sonne at 35€ (two star) in one of the shopping streets just as it was getting dark. The lady at the reception pointed to the TV that was on and told me that a series of bombs had gone off in the centre of London on the Tube and that 70+ people had been killed and over 1000 injured in the blasts. I had a bath in a separate closet along the corridor but couldn’t find a light in there and no lock on the door! I wedged a chair by the outer door that I brought from my room – got to have some modesty. It was the worse place I stayed in over the whole holiday as it was a bit dismal in there but at least I slept. In the morning the breakfast was rubbish so was glad I ate well tonight.

Current altitude at Bregenz 416m, trip distance 51km, ride time 4hrs 20mins, average speed 11.70kph, max speed 46kph, navigator 131.53, overall distance total 5088km, trip altitude 1507m, max altitude 1590m, average climb 7%, max climb 16%, total altitude 40968m, top elevation 1905 metres.

 Friday 8th July 2005

Bregenz – Sonthofen – Oberjoch – Riedberg – Feldkirch

Last big onslaught of my mountain bashing if this works out. I was planning to take a train from Lindau just a bit further along Lake Constance then another train to Sonthofen in Bavaria. The idea was to leave my panniers at the tourist information somewhere in the area then cycle the Oberjoch (BIG no.191) 11 kilometres from Sonthofen then fully laden back into Austria over the Tiefenberg (BIG no. 134) and Schonberg (BIG no. 193) and on to Dornbirn and train to Feldkirch. The plan actually worked as I had brilliant train connections. After a bland breakfast in a non descript pension at a rip off price I was out on the road. I least I had a good sleep but there wasn’t much food for breakfast. There was a train at 08.10 and for Lindau then a connecting train to Immenstadt. There was no charge for the bike. Today would be my last gasp at the BIG’s this holiday. The weather was dry and some blue sky as I sat on the train. I hoped that it would stay dry. I arrived in Immenstadt just past a large lake on the right and changed for a local train to Oberstdorf from Immenstadt to Sonthofen. Out from the station and right to the main road and it was fairly easy going uphill on a cyclepath to the left of the road as far as Hindelang and left my panniers at the tourist information office on the left along the main road just before the commencement of the climb to the Oberjoch, BIG no. 191. the way was fairly easy going in middle gear. There are about 13 curves but the road is never very steep. There’s a viewpoint on the left where I passed flags and the haunting sound of the Lorelie from behind the rocks from the shop at the viewpoint. Then a couple more curves to the top where the road to Reutte and the Austrian border branches off to the right. The true top of the road is 25 metres higher just before this border point. Returned the same way down as far as the viewpoint, a short stop there for the view then back down swinging around the curves and back to Hindelang to collect my panniers. It took me 20 minutes to reach Hindelang then a further 30 minutes to the top of the curves and 15 minutes to the Austrian border. I collected my bags at 12.30 so had plenty of time to negotiate the next two passes along the road to Dornbirn but this time I would be dragging the panniers with me. I became a little confused back in Sonthofen by the bahnhof as the road I needed out for Obertsdorf is now an autobahn. This was a problem on relying on an old map! I asked the way and was expertly guided past the bahnhof to a roundabout, took a right then left over the autobahn (that wasn’t on my map) took a sign indicating Sigishofen and Ofterschwang. The directions were good and I had an easy ride along the clearing then up through the woods on a quiet road for about two kilometres to Ofterschwang, though Sigiswang is about 20 metres higher than the recognised BIG road summit of the Ofterschwang, BIG no. 194. Great views to the south then on for the last pass. I thought that the final BIG, the Riedberg Pass, BIG no. 193, would be a walkover after the last two, how wrong I was! Down the other side of the pass through Bolsterlang, a pretty village with the decorated pole in the village centre with coats of arms displayed. Down steeply to a junction of roads from Fischen to Maiselstein. Looking back it was obvious that going up to Ofterschwang from this side would have been longer and steeper. I passed through Maiselstein with its pleasant smell of wood mills to enter the national park then an extremely long and tough climb, sometimes so steep that I had to walk. I reverted to ‘pushbike’. The road seemed to go on forever and was beginning to wonder how much further to the top of the pass. The Riedberg Pass was tougher than the other two passes today combined. I believe that after the Kehlstein and Hirschbichl this is the third most difficult climb in Bavaria, there was no let up to the steepness. The valley cuttings give way to a rocky landscape and the top was finally reached after a two hour struggle. This was my last grand climb of the holiday – nothing like a grande finale, this was tough! On the way down I could see that it would have been equally as difficult climbing the road from the western side, although only from Balderschwang but there is still a steep rise up from Dornbirn to Alberschwende, up a bit after Balderschwang then a drop to the border then up again. A steep road comes in from Sibratsgfall and at first I was hoping this wasn’t the continuation of the road I was on, but then there’s a gap to the right. It’s a drop down quite a way to Hittisau, a junction of roads, to the left along to Kleimath after which the road rises steeply in two curves to the junction of the road coming in from Egg, This road is on a ridge higher up and still more climbing until Vorholz is reached then down to Alberschwende and left for Dornbirn as the main road continues on for Bregenz. On through wooded countryside then the road drops suddenly from Winsau with a glorious view stretching from Dornbirn, across the eastern edge of the Bodensee to the mountains around Appenzell in Switzerland. I felt as if I had come home! I stopped up here a while taking in the view across Lake Constance then slowly descended into Dornbirn. I decided against taking a train as I had plenty of time to cycle on to Feldkirch. I had ½ an hour to wait for a train and estimated I would arrive in Feldkirch at 19.30 if I biked on. Dornbirn is a busy place so I kept to the radweg but there are too many traffic lights along this road. The best hotel I could find was a 3 star at 55€. (£38.50) This was the most expensive night’s stay of my holiday so far, (but wait until tomorrow!) however it was really good. This is the Hotel Luing right in the centre of town at one end of the Marktgasse, the main street. That night it was also right behind the orchestra stand of the oompah band that was playing today until Sunday. It was the Feldkircher Weinfest (wine festival). I had my own beer bought at the Hofer supermarket earlier and made a couple of visits back behind the stage to my room in the hotel to bring out my glass refills! One Austrian wanted to know where I bought my beer from and I replied saying from Hotel Luing – which was true – in a way! I enjoyed the festivities until midnight as I was not cycling far tomorrow, I would have a lie in for once. I showered and changed and joined in the fun. One drunk was dancing on his own and waving his arms madly. Poor fellow, everyone was doing there best to ignore him. He fell over a couple of times and at the end of the evening was lying flat out on the cobbles, paralytic. I listened to the oompah band for a couple of hours and some of the soloists were very good. (especially Ronaldo, quite a character! Language understanding wasn’t needed.)

Current altitude at Feldkirch 469m, trip distance 135km, Overall distance 5223 km, ride time 7hours 34 mins, average speed 17.8kph, max speed 54kph, navigator 266.52, trip altitude1691m, max altitude 1420m, average climb 4%, max climb 18%, total altitude 42660 metres, top elevation 2905 metres.

Saturday 9th July 2005

Feldkirch to Lucerne

I had a lie in and was scolded at breakfast at 08.15 for not arriving downstairs for breakfast at 07.30 as I requested last night. It was a good breakfast, no frills but the bread was good enough to eat all of it, the coffee was good too. I didn’t need to stuff my cycle vest back pocket with made up rolls today!   Biked out at 09.15 uphill to the Liechtenstein border, slightly downhill before reaching the customs point. I was stopped at the customs and had my passport stamped. On from there downhill to Schaan after a 5km barren section slightly uphill. From Schaan past Vaduz Castle on the hill above to the left and down into Vaduz where I lingered for a while There were loads of Japanese tourists in Vaduz and also probably the same ones I saw later in Maienfeld over the Luziensteig Pass. Cycled on along the valley to the other end of the small country at Balzars then left for the Luziensteig Pass, passing Balzars Castle and a gentle rise up at first then steeper to the border then up steeper through the woods to the top of the pass. There was a military exercise going on within the walled village just north of the top, a demonstration by Swiss-Italian soldiers of a make believe car bomber being manhandled and forcibly removed from his car at gunpoint. On through the walled gate to Luziensteig, the only pass in Switzerland I saw this holiday and also the last pass of my tour. Down the pass and into Maienfeld, great views looking across at orchards and Heidi country in the heat haze. Glided down through the village to the valley and across the Rhine to Bad Ragaz. I soon found the bahnhof and boarded a train at 12.35 to Thalwil, changing there for an immediate connection to Lucerne, arriving at 14.15. I called in at the tourist information office by the main station and got fixed up with a room in Hotel Balm in Meggan along Lake Lucerne at 100 Swiss Francs – that’s £45.00. There was very little accommodation left in the area as there was a rowing event taking place over the weekend at the Rotsee behind the city. I cycled the 5 kilometres along the north side of the lake towards Kussnacht; the final 2 kilometres are uphill to Meggan. I booked in and left my panniers in the room and immediately out to the Lido on the way back to Lucerne, 2 kilometres away downhill. At the Lido I sunbathed and watched the lake steamers plying by then continued along the lakeside walkway into Lucerne. I rode to the dying Lion of Lucerne in memory of Swiss mercenary soldiers killed at Tuileries in 1792. The sky became very dark, a possible storm brewing so biked back to the hotel as quickly as possible along the road to shower and change. I didn’t quite make it without receiving a good soaking as I left the rainwear in the hotel. I left the camera and diary in the hotel, grabbed my jacket then out to the city again. I was away from the hotel at 19.00 to look for a place to eat around the old town. Everywhere was too expensive and only had a limited amount of francs that I brought from home so opted for a cheaper place and found a good deal at a pub just up the main street away from the city centre. Back to the hotel at 22.00 and slept at 23.00, ready for home.  

Current altitude at Lucerne  475 metres, ride time 5 hours, average speed 14.60 kph, max speed 56kph, navigator 73.80, trip altitude 605 metres, max altitude 719 metres, average climb 3%, max climb 11%, total attitude 43265 metres, total distance today 74 km, top elevation 1905m, total overall distance 5297 kilometres.

Sunday 10th July 2005

Lucerne to Holmes Chapel

I left Lucerne by train to Zurich, changing at Zofingen for a connecting train to Basel. The first train was crowded with bikes, there were so many in the carriage that it was a problem stacking them and could see a problem getting it out later for my connecting train. A cycling family gave me some help and took my bags on to the platform while I struggled lifting my bike over others on limited floor space and on to the platform. The connecting service to Basel left a few minutes later but had ample time to catch it as it was in other cyclists’ interests on that train  to help me off with my bike! In Basel I looked around for the airport bus, number 16. I soon found out that it left from the side of the main SBB station and not from the bus station opposite. I couldn’t board the first bus as it was about to leave but the airport buses leave every twenty minutes and I still had nearly four hours before my flight. When the next bus came in my bike was loaded and hung up in a large silver trailer, together with my bags on the floor of the trailer. The journey took about ¾ of an hour leaving Switzerland as Basel airport is just over the border in France. Once there I had a meal on the top floor, taking my bike up in the lift as security insists no luggage to be left unattended. I dismantled the bike; wheels off and strung either side of the frame, tyres deflated, pedals removed, put a skewer through the front forks with a plastic tube over it to protect the forks from being squashed, handlebars moved in line with the frame then bagged. One bag over the bars and saddle then turned the bike over and placed the other bag over the front and rear drop outs then furniture taped the whole package and finished securing with nylon string. I put my panniers in a post office bag and tied it at the top then over to the check in, received the boarding card then bike and bags taken to the oversize check in for X ray and out for loading to the plane. There was no problem, on through customs then had about an hour to lounge around in the departure area waiting for the flight boarding detail. The 16.20 flight number 7132 left Basel on time and arrived on schedule in Liverpool. Through customs then assembled the bike outside in the warm sunshine and biked through Hale village to Runcorn where I hoped to catch a train home but there wasn’t any. Typical of our wonderful rail system the line was closed and replacement bus services were operating however the next bus was due in just under two hours and only stopped in Crewe then no train to Holmes Chapel until much later. I phoned Ruth from Runcorn station. She offered to collect me at Hartford so rode out of Runcorn following cycle routes. Bike loaded into the car and she drove me home. The end of another perfect holiday and grateful thanks to Ruth for letting me satisfy my insatiable wanderlust for masochistic mountain bashing!    35km today

 Total kilometres at start 3685km. Total at finish 5332km, total kilometres 1647 or 1029 miles.

Total altitude at start 22218 metres. Total altitude at finish 43295 metres. Total altitude climbed 21077 metres or 69,154 feet or 13.10 miles high. 3 times the height of Mount Everest at 23,000 feet.