3/9/88
Holmes Chapel 07.14
Crewe 07.27
Crewe 07.56
London Euston 09.47
London Victoria 10.20
Dover Western Docks 12.30
Dover Western Docks 13.30 (late leaving)
Ostend 18.35
Ostend 20.30
4/9/88
Salzburg 09.45
Salzburg 10.40
Attnang Pucheim 11.25 (71 kilometres)
4/9/88 Attnang Pucheim to Salzburg
Started off at 11.30 in drizzle through the village of Wanken to Gmunden on the lake ……..at the north end of the Salzkammergutt. On through Althohe, over the Nuehurshenpass, Steinbach, Attersee, Unterach, Au, Mondsee, St Gilgen, Fuschl to Salzburg at 19.40 – 88 kilometres or 55 miles in 8hours, 10 minutes. Had a hot dog and beer at St Gilgen, 25.00 OS. Booked in at Salzburg hostel, overnight stay was 100 OS. Had hot dog, beer and ice cream for 51 OS. It was raining again this evening.
5/9/88 Salzburg to Iselsberg
100 kilometres, 62.5 miles, 11.00 to 20.15, 9.75 hours
Took a train from Salzburg to Zell am See. Cost 20 OS to register the bike. Arrived at 10.31. Before setting off I had a coffee and apfelstrudel for 50 OS and later a fruit juice, yoghurt and milk from a supermarket, 33.00 OS. Today I cycled 100 kilometres or 62.5 miles from Zell am See to Iselsberg, stopping overnight at Hotel Defreggerhof above Winklern, Today was dry and sunny all day. Hotel 220 OS and 265 OS for a meal of rump steak, chips, mixed veg, beer, red wine, coupe Denmark ice cream. First meal of the holiday. The route was Zell am See – Bruck- Edelweisspitze (begins to drag a bit at this point) Slowly up to the tower at Fuscher Tor, a better high point than the final summit at Hochtor. Not a pleasant feeling having to go down between these two points then having to climb up again to the Hochtor. It is better, having done this route, to travel from south to north as the road is not all descent south of the Hochtor, especially the last four kilometres before Iselsberg and after Winklern. There is a steep descent from Hochtor to Heilingblut and great views south, then a more gradual descent to Winklern. North of the Grossglockner to Zell am See would be down, a long uninterrupted sweep all the way. I found the hotel when I was on my last legs, dragging my way up those steep four kilometres to the top of the Iselsberg pass where I arrived at 20.15. Bed at 23.15.
6/9/88 Iselsberg to Misurina
81 kilometres, 50 miles, 10.30 to 18.30, 8.5 hours
Thirteen kilometres to Leinz, steeply down the pass to the valley floor. Leinz is an old Austrian town but other than old buildings there is nothing else of note. The narrow streets were crowded. I missed the railway station so carried on toward the Austrian / Italian border at Arnbach. It was easy going at first but slightly uphill along the valley of the Drau. There are good views looking back to the Leinzer Dolomites. At Mittewald I wasn’t feeling very well so I took a rest the church there for an hour (11.30 – 12.30). Strength increased after a break and some food. Part of the problem was that the wind was against me along the valley and it was up all the way. At Panzendorf there is an interesting castle and an old wooden bridge. I soon reached Sillian. At Alnbach I stopped at a fountain and noted the youth hostel sign. At 14.30 I reached the border and was waived through. I stopped for a hot chocolate on the Italian side (1300 lire, 60p). The road seemed a bit dull to San Candido. At a level crossing I had to wait 20 minutes! This area is brush land. I bypassed the town and took a photo from above the railway station of Mount Elmo. The road was more interesting from San Candido to Toblach / Dobbacio. This is an interesting town and enjoyed looking around here. I stopped at the railway station to work out a possible route by train to Innsbruck, but was glad that I didn’t. I carried on towards Cortina, 14 kilometres of steady ascent but easy riding with added strength after eating Kendal mint cake. Along to Lago di Landro / Durensee. Good views here, south to Drei Zinnen and Carbonin. I now had a decision to make, which way to from here? The way via S. Uberto might be shorter and it would appear need less effort yet the way via Misurina seemed on the map to be the more interesting proposition. It was a 6-kilometre climb with the help of more Kendal mint cake and I soon reached the top of the Col S. Angelo. From this point it was down slightly to Misurina. I found somewhere to stay, the Sport Hotel on the left of the lake as I came in from the north. This cost 41,000 lire (approx £18.00) for bed, breakfast and evening meal of spaghetti, meat and parmesan followed by pork, crisps and mushrooms and finished off with a bowl of fruit and a red wine. I thought all that was a bargain, even if it was a fixed menu. I took a short walk along the lake later, in the dark. I went to sleep at 21.30, my earliest ever!
7/9/88 Lago di Misurina to Grodner Joch
10.30 – 18.00, 60kilometres, 38 miles
Leaving Misurina, up the Passo Tre Croci (The Three Cross Pass) not too bad for the start of the day. Down to Cortina in an hour. Then up the long road to the Falzarego Pass, only 14 kilometres from Cortina but this was a two-hour steady climb. I took an hour looking around the pass. This area was well worth seeing. There’s a cable car to Lagazoni but I didn’t bother at 9000 lire return fare – one way was not allowed! On from the pass to Passo Valparola, only a short climb of 87 metres as this is a neighbouring pass with only a slight dip between the two. From here over the other side to the north and down a long way to La Villa Stern. On the way down my toe clip became detached. I rode into a Fiat garage there and got it fixed for free. On from there to Corvara, easy riding. I bought a litre of milk and a large yoghurt at a supermarket. An ‘A’ frame glider was flying over the mountain to the north. It was then an evening ride up to the Grodner Joch and arrived at dusk at the top. There wasn’t much traffic at the hotel. I was charged 31.00 Deutschmark (not enough lire on me), or £15.30 for bed, breakfast and evening meal of spaghetti Bolognese and a beer. I slept most of the night for a change but was up for an hour at 03.30.
8/9/88 Grodner Joch to Brixen
10.30 – 13.30, 32 kilometres, 20 miles.
I had breakfast late, at 09.30. The usual bread and rolls and coffee. On the road it was all downhill and what a run! I was out along Grodner Tal, St Ulrich, Klausen to Brixen. Brixen is a pleasant old town, narrow cobbled streets, a cathedral and colourful pastel shaded buildings. Pink seems to be the predominant colour. I was planning to go on the 14.10 to Innsbruck but the train could not convey the bike so I left on the 15.11 and the bike had to follow on a later train at 16.48. I collected it at Innsbruck. This was complicated and a disappointment as I would liked to have either biked down the Brenner if I could have left with it on the 14.10 or possibly cycle on from Innsbruck up to the German border at Mittenwald to give me a day cycling down from the Alps to Munich. The fare was 6000 lire for me and the bike, me as far as the Brenner Pass and the bike as far as Munich. I was in Innsbruck at 17.00. I picked up a town map (stadtplan) and found the bus route ‘R’ marked on the map that went past the hostel. I looked for a bus by the station and there was one in. It cost 15.00 schillings for the 20-minute trip to the hostel. I booked in for the night, 120 OS. It was only another 90 OS to stay a second night but I wasn’t. I went back to collect the bike from the station later after first making the bed and talking to an American called Jeff who had a month to ‘do’ Europe before taking up a banking job in New York. He was tripping from Zurich where he landed from his flight in from the States. He had arrived in Innsbruck from Lucerne and was travelling on to Salzburg, Vienna and Budapest and back along the Rhine Valley and on to London. I had a meal near the station, veg. and cheese soup and fish pizza and lemon tea for 180 OS (£8.70). I then collected the bike and rode back to the hostel along the back streets in the dark. I needed earplugs that night because the traffic flying past on the main road was so busy. My room was at the front of the hostel, the worst possible place to be. I always seem to end up with a top bunk. I fell off the first time. Went to sleep at 23.00, couldn’t sleep at first but must have had at least 7 hours solid sleep when I finally did.
9/9/88 Brixen to Ostend
Train trip only, Brixen to Innsbruck and Innsbruck to Munich. Slipping back into winter habits I thought I would have a rest day and use the train. I sent the bike on to Munich via Kufstein. I took the earlier train at 09.55 via Mittenwald and Garmisch to Munich. I left the hostel on yet another sunny warm morning. All except the first day of the bike trip- and even then only in the morning- I had a dry and sunny tour. I found a way to Rennweg and biked along the Inn to the Aldstadt with the Golden Roof and other sights. I didn’t buy anything but wandered along the narrow cobbled streets and along Maria Theresa Strasse, Innsbruck’s main central avenue that has the backdrop of the Alps at one end but at this time it was ruined by a large construction crane standing proud of the old buildings. On to the station and I parted company with my bike and sent it on to Munich. When I arrived later in Munich I went along to the goods collection area twice but it had not yet arrived even though it had been despatched on an earlier train from the one I caught. At 20.00, 6 hours after I arrived in Munich, it finally arrived. I just had enough time to send it on its merry way to Ostend. To ensure it went on the intended train I booked it away as a case under 30kgs. I had a good look around Munich during the afternoon by foot, seeing the buildings and admiring the sights and window shopping. I left my pannier bags in the left luggage lockers on Munich station, upper floor, cost 2 Deutschmarks. Hofgarten is especially beautiful (photo C75). I left Munich on the 22.06 train direct to Ostend. This was the only train of the day that was direct. Others involved a change at Koln. The train journey was a drag. I was attacked by a German speaking coloured ‘gentleman’ during the night. There are some strange people about. Passing through Belguim I shared the compartment with a Belgian woman who had gone asleep past her stop and ended up having a ding-dong with the guard, but it wasn’t his fault. I arrived in Ostend at 09.20.
10/9/88 Ostend to Holmes Chapel
Again I had some trouble recovering the bike, this time because the ticket said ‘case’ and not ‘bike’ – but I could see my bike propped up in the cage at Ostend station. Eventually I convinced the staff that it was a bike I was collecting when I showed him the pannier bags I was carrying, really not suitable for walking far with. I got it back and loaded it up with the panniers and wheeled it to the ferry only to be told at the P&O office at the customs gate that the next ferry was cancelled due to ‘technical difficulties’ Ah, I must be getting close to England and the influence of British Rail. That was the 11.45 ferry. The following ‘service’ would be at 13.45. Sure enough there was no earlier boat because lazing away the rest of the morning at the end of the pier I was watching all the boats and out to see I imagined I could see England but that’s impossible from here. I enjoyed the sunshine but had a bit of a headache having been up much of the night disturbed by a ranting German and a snoring Belgian. I read a few magazines I had carried with me then biked into the town for a quick circuit around then back to the customs office to queue for the hoped for ferry. I didn’t have long to wait and boarded with the motorcyclists as first into the car deck at 13.15. The ferry left on time that I thought was unusual but then this isn’t Sealink! The Belgian ferry service RMT now belongs to P&O. the 4½ hour boat trip was a bit of a drag. I had fish, chips and veg. on board but had to ask for it to be warmed up, also drinking chocolate and a yoghurt all for £5.26, filter coffee later at £0.65. I changed the rest of my money back to sterling. Altogether the holiday had cost £130 or £16.50 each day that I thought was reasonable. There were videos on board of Benny Hill and The Life of Brian. The sea was calm but the sky was overcast and had been all the way through Belgium since waking this morning between Brussels and Gent The customs was really good at Dover, absolutely no security. I could have brought in 10 litres of whiskey or more and not be challenged. I went straight through with the cars and biked on to Dover Priory station to go for an earlier train through Ashford to London Charing Cross. I shared a compartment with a young Christian couple from Folkestone Cental. They had visited the Hythe to Dymchurch railway with their two young children and were out for the day from Sevenoaks. Before they had their sandwiches on the train they all held hands and said ‘amen’ for the Lord to bless the meal. The children needed it on that fast express, there was dripping yoghurt everywhere. They noticed the cover of the book I was reading ‘The Father Heart of God’. They were very friendly and offered me a coffee. The train arrived in Charing Cross at 19.30 at lighting up time. Ibiked along Whitehall, Horse Guards Parade, Trafalgar Square then up Tottenham Court Road (Tottn’m Cowt Rowd) to Euston station. I went for the 20.30 train to Lancaster, had a coffee and a lager and arrived in Crewe at 22.30