CROSSROAD - EAST & CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS — 2013
IN MEMORY OF JURGEN RECKHAUS
10.08.2013. — 19.08.2013.
PROLOGUE “On Passo dello Stelvio at the final mountain stage of Giro d ‘Italia 2012 there was a random meeting of Gabor, Vaclav Klicnik and Finn (11years old), and also many more BIG members. Gabor, Vaclav, Finns father Heiko and Jurgen Reckhaus meeting again, now planned, at the annual BIG—Meeting 2012 in the Tatras on Sedlo Certovica and an idea was born for another meeting on other east European BIGS, Some months later we decided together to make a journey similar to the crossroad programme described. Jurgen, Heiko and Finn planned to start (after the annual meeting 2013) on the evening of Friday 9th August from Amberg (south of Nurnberg), with the car to Prague, enter there a train that includes the car and will arrive in Kosice in the eastern part of Slovakia on Saturday morning 10th August. There starts the programme with Day One. Gabor joins the group at the 13th August in the evening, After Jurgen’s death these plans had stopped, After long discussions and many thoughts about it we now decide that we should do this journey in memory of Jurgen. Part 2 (Days 5-10) will now definitely start with Gabor, Heiko and Finn.”
Part 1 (day 1-4) is so far virtually impossible, because it is not possible for Heiko and Finn alone, and Gabor can‘t join the meeting before the 13th August. But it may be possible for them if there will be other participants. If someone is interested and needs more information; for example the train from Prague to Kosice or possibly the programme with the start in Ukraine etc.)
Summary:
Day 1 – 10.08.13
8.00 Start from Kosice (Slovakia)
Travel to the Ukraine to the village Uzhok (200 km). Take at easy in the border crossing! Not is the simple situation! You can need a passport because the identity card is not enough. In the village of Uzhok you can find the shop with the parking place. Please stay safe!
BIG831 - Pereval Uzhokskiy After the climb and downhill travel to Soimy (100 km). In the village you can find the petrol station. The petrol is very cheap in Ukraine.
BIG 833 Pereval Vyshkivskiy
Don’t agree with the sign, this is the second alternative name. After the climb and downhill travel to Yasina (180km). at the centre and after the bridge turn left (Corna Tisa). Here you will find Hotel Edelweiss. The sign for it is from the opposite direction.
Day2 — 11.08.2013.
8.00 Start for BIG832 - Bukovel. After the Pereval Jablonuckiy the new road to Bukovel is to the left
After cycling travel to Salgotarjan (500 km) across the border. Accommodation in Hotel Salgo. (Near the one of the Hungarian National BIG.) http://salgohotel.hu/elerhetosegeink
Don’t agree for the sign, this is the second alternative name. After the climb and downhill, travel to the Yasina. (180 km). On the centre (after the bridge), turn left (Corna Tisa) and you can find the ,,Hotel Edelweiss". (The sign is from opposite side.)
Day3 - 12.08.2013.
8.00 Start from Salgotarjan (Hungary). Travel to the Paradsasvar (40 km).
BIG852 - Kékesteto (15 km and 600m height differences.)
BIG851 — Galyateto (Connecting after the Kékesteto. 20 km and 450m height differences.) Downhill from the Galyateo and travel to Eger (40 km). BIG 854 Felso Borovnyak Travel to the Salgotarjan (70 km). Accommodation in Salgotarjan.
Day4 — 13.08.2013.
8.00 Start from Salgotarjan (Hungary). Travel to the Slovakia to the town Roznava (140 km).
BIG849 - Panske Sedlo (26 km and 730 m height differences.) Don’t agree with the sign, this is the second alternative name. Downhill from Panske Sedlo and travel to the Kremnica (180 km) for BIG547 — Skalka (12 km and 700 m height differences.) Downhill from the Skalka and travel to Svaty Anton (50km). BlG848 — Sitno (8 km and 600m height difference.) Downhill from the Sitno and travel to God — Hungary (120 km). Accommodation Pension llka. http://ilkacsardapanzio.hu/lang—en/
Day5 — 14.08.2013.
4.00 (!) Start from God (Hungary). Travel to Romania to the village Borsa (670 km).
B1G856 - Pasul Prislop (28 km and 650 m height differences.) Downhill from Pasul Prislop and travel to Poiana Stampei (110 km).
BIG857 - Pasul Tihuta (17 km and 350 m height differences.) Accommodation in Poiana Stampei
Day6 — 15.08.2013.
8.00 Start from Poiana Stampei (Romania). Travel to Borsa (80 km).
BIG858 — Pasul Ciumarna (15 km and 600 m height differences.) Pasul Ciumarna, da Moldovita Downhill from the Pasul Ciumarna and travel to Chiril (80 km).
BIG859 - Pasul Rarau (14 km and 800 m height differences.) Downhill from the Pasul Rarau and travel to Bicaz (110 km).
BIG860 — Pasul Bicaz (20 km and 710 m height difference.) Downhill from Pasul Bicaz travel to Miercurea Ciuc (110km). Accommodation: http://salvator.ro/english
This town has the famous Pilger place in the historic Hungarian part of the country. From 19.00 there will be the high mass in the Roman Catholic church and celebrate the memory of Jurgen. This day will be the feast for the Lady Day Maria.
Day7 16.08.2013.
8.00 Start from Miercurea Ciuc. Travel to Brasov (100 km).
BlG865 - Pasul Bratocea (25 km and 640 m height differences.) Downhill from the Pasul Bratocea and travel to Bran (40 km).
BlG863 - Pasul Bran (17 km and 500 m height differences.) Downhill from the Pasul Bran and travel to Cartisoara (120 km). Accommodation in Cartisoara
Day 8 — 17.08.2013.
8.00 Start from Cartisoara
BIG862 - Pasul Brilea (31 km and 1500 m height differences.) Pasul Balea, da Cirtiscara Downhill from the Pasul Brilea and travel to Sibiu (50 km).
BIG861 — Paltinis (21 km and 900 m height difference.) Downhill from the Paltinis and stay in Sibiu (50 km). Accommodation in Sibiu
Day 9 — 18.08.2013.
8.00 Start from Sibiu to the Budureasa (250 km).
BIG864 — Stina de Vale. Downhill from the Stina de Vale and travel to Pomaz (Hungary). (390 km)
B1G850 - Dobogoko. Downhill from the Dobogoke and travel to God (30 km). Accommodation at Pension Ilka the same as on Tuesday. http://ilkacsardapanzio.hu/lang-en/
Day 10 -19.08.2013
8.00 Start from God and go to the West. Stop in Pannonhalma (160 km).
BIG853 — Pannonhalma (1,5 km and 110 m height differences.)
8th August 2013
Holmes Chapel departs 08.46 to Crewe arrives 09.04. from Crewe departs 09.29, platform 6 to London Euston arrives 11.04. Walk to St Pancras. Eurostar departure 14.04 to Brussels arriving at 17.05 £23 + £10 bike reservation. Brussels 18.25 to Frankfurt Flughafen 21.16, Frankfurt at 22.33 via Nurnberg 03.21 then 04.34 to Amberg arriving 05.25. Meet with Heiko and company and share driving to Kosice. Refer to Crossroads roadbook on previous pages for itinerary but some of the days routes were changed so below was the actual rescheduled itinerary.
9th August 2013
Relaxing at Heiko’s house after travelling the previous day and through the small hours. Finn took me around Amberg at midday and up the steep hill to the baroque Franciscan monastery on the ‘Hill of Our Lady Help of Christians’ (Germ. Mariahilfberg) above the town. This hill was given its name during the bubonic plague in the Thirty Years' War in 1633/4 when the locals beseeched the Virgin Mary to rid them of the plague. It was a steep climb and discovered just how easily Finn tackles the inclines. Much more of this was seen over the next ten days. Down to the town, through a city gate and to Market Square, which contains the Gothic town hall (built in 1358) and the late-Gothic Parish Church of St. Martin where Finn went for a couple of frankfurters for us both, a treat from Carmen. It started raining so we cycled back. The rest of the day it rained a lot more. I relaxed again at the house then at 3.00pm Heiko returned from work and together with Irene Schneider we set off in the large peoples carrier with our bikes strapped to an external bike carrier, Finn’s bike was too small and had to be squeezed into the rear of the van with our luggage. From the outset we loaded each others mobile phone numbers in case of separation or emergency. We set off at 4.00pm in torrential rain and traffic queues slowing us down on our way east. It was obvious we would never make our first planned rendezvous this evening so we parked up at Staffenberg rest place by the side of the autobahn 30km from Vienna. We slept in the vehicle at 10.30pm; me at the rear on my bike bag and lilo, Heiko across the rear seats, Finn on the floor between seats and Irene at the front. The weather was atrocious, made even worse by pelting rain on the metal roof but we slept, of sorts.
10th August 2013
We agreed to set off at 4.00am to catch up with our programme and reached Kremnika at the foot of the first BIG, the Skalka, 474 metres BIG 847 to the north of Bratislava, Slovakia. Kremnica is a walled town where we left our vehicle on the cobbled area in front of gate through the wall. We reached gates toward the top of the climb just before the mast. We had ice creams from a stall by the cobbles when we returned. From there we drove to Svaty Anton north of Budapest, parking off the road at a metal railed Madonna statue then biked south 3km missing the turn for the Sitno BIG 848 so we turned back and found a narrow road in the trees off to the right from the village but no indication from the main road – easily missed. I took a photo of it when we returned back down to send to the club for clarification of the start of the climb. The road is a bit rough and narrow, loose fine stone in places but perfectly rideable. The road comes to an abrupt end at the grassy summit and we wheeled the bikes to the wooden chapel that marks the summit on Stiavnica Mountain. I signed the visitor’s book and added that we were cycling in memory of Jurgen Reckhaus. Finn, Irene and I explored the wooden chapel and took in the views. Heiko had returned back down to bring the car to the foot of the climb and collected us for the onward journey as we were well behind time to complete four BIG’s today then be on target for the continuation of the programme. From there we drove south at hell for leather speed crossing into Hungary north of Salgotarjan. We were cycling the Kekesteto BIG 852, halfway between Eger and Budapest. First we booked in at our rooms, a simple accommodation in the small town of Parad. One of the Hungarian cyclists was there to meet us and when we arrived he brought the owner to let us in. We made our room arrangements but now conscious of losing more time waiting around. Francois met us at the hotel while we waited and joined us now.
We followed the Hungarian rider out of the town and headed along a level section then off to the left for the climb up to Kekesteto through the trees. The top is marked by a mast and a large building, viewpoint and a tourist telescope but here there is also a large rock painted in the colours of the Hungarian flag where we all posed for photos. Later we hurtled down the mountain on the rough road and took a left for the last climb of the day an hour before sunset. Unfortunately Heiko received a puncture on the way down but then the road was rough. He began to fix it while the rest of us continued on up to the Galyateto, BIG 851 that we had to reach before sunset. Heiko caught up, went to the top and with the Hungarian went back for the vehicle from Parad then came to the top of the climb to collect us. I had a minor accident at the top and had to lean on a tree at the top of the road in the dark – my shoe was caught in the clip on the pedal as the clip had come loose. I had to struggle out of the shoe then prise the shoe off the pedal. Irene and Finn waited in a dark bus shelter while I struggled. It was too dark to take photos, the road ending at a grassy track that led to the top on the left. Beyond the gate there I could see the mast. Currency exchange at current rate is 300 forint to one euro. Our accommodation for all of us was 18000 forint or 60€ so was fairly cheap. There was nowhere open to eat later and we were all so hungry. We bought kebabs and beer from a van in a car park and also bought forint from an ATM in the village to pay for it and future days. Later we pulled the bikes into the corridor of the digs as we had it to ourselves and for once had a good night’s sleep in our own rooms. Francois had already found somewhere else earlier a few kilometres away and met up with us in the morning.
11th August 2013
BIG’s 854 and 849. Leaving Parad this morning after breakfast down the road from the digs where Francois joined us we were still hungry after only managing to get sausages to eat because our English and German was useless in this area. We could have done with having the Hungarian guy with us who guided us up the climbs from Parad yesterday. We left at 09.00 and drove for the next cycle climb further east by way of Eger and north through Belapatfalva where we were driving to the west of the range of Bukki Nemzeti Park and skirted to the north parking at Malyinka. We asked the way of a local who spoke German. We ensured that we were parking in the right area for the foot of the climb. It was near a café on the right side from which the road gradually rises then narrows after the village and a steeper section that continued to the top of BIG 854 Felso Borovnyak from Malyinka also Francois drove round to the north of the mountain for the easier side of the climb. We left the car in the village on a dusty road. We took a right turn after 6km for the final 3km to the top. There was some confusion as we were nearing the top and just past a pleasant narrow section of road in open country we came to a ‘T’ junction and asked a young family the right way to the NATO base. They directed us off to the left but this only led down a rough track that finished at a farm. If Heiko met them again he would have words! It wasted a precious hour. Heiko explored alone the turn to the right but soon came back, it wasn’t that way. Nothing else for it but go back to the restaurant in a clearing further down and hope there was a turning there. Three hundred metres before this though we noticed a road to the right at an acute angle coming away from the restaurant so we easily missed it on our way up. This led to the white dome and the NATO base after 3km up through woods, the road veers off to the right then left again in quick succession through the trees where we could see the dome. We were warned that there were CCTV cameras around the gates and metal fencing so shouldn’t take photos – but I did – but with the zoom. We took photos at the chairlift then returned to the car. Francois left before us and we met up again parking at the top of BIG north of Roznava. We drove through Putnok and into Slovakia again through Tornal’a and Roznava where we were trying to communicate with Francois for us all to park and meet on the top of the climb and cycle down the north side of Panske Sedlo to Smolnik and begin the climb from there from the huge brown church. It was an interesting bike back up and a novel experience cycling back up a BIG from the top. Francois was amazed that I’d not done this before. He does have a point – you know the road exactly as you take the challenge to the top. I rode alone, Heiko soon passed me and Finn was somewhere in front. Irene came along later but was happy to go at her own pace. The road passes through Uhorna, a small village of terraced single story houses and many people walking the road in the village, amazed at the western cyclists passing through.
From the village, the road turns sharply to the right after a large metal crucifix then a rise up through the woods and another bend to the right giving a great view back down the valley the way we had come. I could see Irene way down below as I approached the final bend, this time to the left and one final kilometre to the woods at the top. Heiko and Fin were already there and we took photos at the top and waited for Irene. When she arrived we had a group photo and said Irene perspiring heavily, “Now you can go and collapse!” Just before the top Francois passed me going the other way heading for Kosice. He would go ahead now and find accommodation that was being organised by Yasmine on the internet back home in Saint Marcel, he was in communication each day from now on while Yasmine found the best places to stay.Tonight was no exception! It was difficult to find the hotel that Yasmine had found us. It was part way up a hill on the road north- west out of Kosice near Sever. The hotel is Zlaty Jelen near swanky five star Hotel Bankov but then Zlaty Jelen itself is swanky. Francois met us at the electric gate at the bottom of a steep driveway, opened the gate and welcomed us with open arms and a big grin. I said, “Francois, is this your secret summer chateaux?” It was a wonderful place.We shared a room, Heiko and Finn had another in an annex and Irene a private room near to us. That evening we couldn’t have a meal at the hotel. We tried Hotel Bankov, taking a dark path at the back of our hotel, but they were closed for meals at 8.30pm. We had to resort to driving down to Sever at 9.00pm before Kosice and found a suitable restaurant off to the left. Francois and I decided to pool money as we were sharing rooms then settle the difference at the end of our part of the holiday in Trieste. I paid equivelant of 69€ for us both. I had creamy penna pasta, salmon salad and 2 Pilsner Urquell beers, 16.70€. Later back to the hotel and a really comfortable bed and crashed out immediately.
12th August 2013
We had a wonderful breakfast together around a large round table in an equally large round tent in glorious sunshine. There was plenty to eat and we could ask for what we wanted. The ham and scrambled eggs mix was fantastic and I must have drunk over a litre of pure orange juice. We felt like royalty. Yasmine had done us proud. It was just sad that we couldn’t find time to enjoy the outdoor pool before we started our drive. We said goodbye to Francois as he made his way back to Parad in Hungary to cycle the Kekesteto and Galyateto that he missed out previously. His intention was to cycle the northern Romanian BIG’s and meet us in Borsa, Romania while Heiko, Finn, Irene and I would go on into Ukraine. We filled up with petrol in Kosice, 81€ for 59 litres. Petrol was 1.5€ per litre in Slovakia. We wasted time in Kosice shopping in a Super Tesco of all places. Irene was surprised that Tesco was a British company and I was equally surprised to see a huge Tesco store this far east. We were only 100km from the Ukranian border. We stock up with food and drink as we had no intention of buying Ukranian money and would be independent as we were only there over two days. We now drove through Humenne and Snina to the border before Velykyj Berelnyj and entered Ukraine. We now had a long drive to the foot of the first BIG at Uzhok and our first set back of the day was formalities at the border for 45 minutes. We were asked why we were visiting – to cycle high roads; how long were we staying, how many euros we had (I said 200), were we related, why were we a mix of English and German , did we have medicine and medical insurance, how many litres of petrol we had. They checked for Heiko’s green insurance card, the hire car insurance details, checked the kilometre reading on the dashboard, who was driving, had we a gun (!), all our addresses then the sat-nav was noticed. Heiko said that it would not work inside Ukraine as he had not the software for that country to which the customs officer broke formality with a smile and said, “end of geography!” and this made the inquisition more relaxing. He had a quick rummage through the car at our luggage and let us through. I remarked to Heiko as we passed on, “good they didn’t find the opium we’ve got stashed in our bike tubes” Don’t think I received a response on that one. We now entered old mother Russia and to what I refer to Ruth as ‘The Dark Side of the Moon” as I expected everything to be so different from our European culture, but I was wrong. It’s like being thrown back a few decades but it’s civilised! At about 4km from the border we took a left through Sil to Uzhok and parked next to a modern light wooded church with gold leaf roof on the left and a small police station on the right – always a good place to park! We cycled the dusty road east out of the village and climbed away, a bend off to the right then gradually up away from the valley to BIG 831 Pereval Uzhokskiy 889 metres. At first the road was fairly good with pot holes in places and we reached a checkpoint where a Ukranian soldier wanted to see our passports. Irene and I had brought our but Heiko and Finn’s were still in the car below. At first they were not allowed entry but after a bit of persuasion and offer of money (glad he refused!) he let us all through. W told him we only wanted to cycle to the top and back down again. Perhaps as this road is so close to the Polish border there has to be the checkpoint, however the road is entirely with in Ukraine. Once through we rode the dusty road past a large crucifix on the right that we later found out was the highest point of the road. I took some photos here on the way back. We rode along past many seemingly deserted small houses on the right in a scene that would kook right back in the 1950’s. It reminded me of Stephen King’s book ‘ The Langoleers’ where history was being eaten up by huge two dimensional circles of mainly mouth. It certainly felt like being in the past and did I see those pylons move? Heiko was concerned on our way down that we might not be able to cycle the next climb if we didn’t hurry so we pressed on. Heiko was down first followed by Finn and started loading the bikes onto the rack at the rear of the peoples carrier. He took the only road off to the left and south but it was no better than a wide stony track that Heiko found difficult to negotiate and keep up a reasonable speed to be on target for time to reach the next BIG; along the Verchovyns Kyjchr valley for about 40km, slightly up to Bukovec then down to Nyzni but then we had a better road through Volovec to Majdan. At Nyzni we were directed by a very friendly and ultra helpful Ukranian policeman who asked us in pefect English, “Can I help you?” ..and he did – in English! Don’t find many English bobbys in UK speaking Ukranian. He directed in good detail, right, left, left again and even to the point on a road where we were to turn right at a small police traffic kiosk in the middle of the road – wonderful! We were now well on our way and would be able to cycle our second BIG today. We parked up in the valley at a café on the left of the road in Majdan at the foot of BIG 833 and climbed Pereval Vyshkivskiy 991 metres, heading north east. I have a lonely ride a few kilometres behind Heiko and Fin with Irene taking the road casual behind me, about 3 km distant. The road up is a good surface, steeper and longer than the first Ukranian pass and fairly easy for the first few kilometres. Only the final four kilometres were a challenge on a steeper gradient. The road was pot holed at first but better higher up. I took photos of the blue height marker plate at the top then of Finn and Irene as they arrived. We all rode back down together in gathering dusk. Heiko was concerned as it was 8.30pm and getting dark as the car was loaded and he had to drive a distance now to reach Lazescyna or Yasina north of PaxiB where our hotel had been booked by Gabor on our behalf. Irene rang the hotel to say we would be very late- in fact it was 2.45am when we arrived. We got lost doing a totally unnecessary circuit north of Chust XyCT. Eventually we found the sign for Rachov PaxiB just south of our destination and Hotel Edelweiss. I believe we had gone wrong in the Chust XyCT area and took the road west through Irsava and Vynohradiv as I remember seeing a lake in the darkness- and that’s to he west of Chust. I asked at a bar in Chust – well Ishowed them the map! – and we had the right direction. Heiko then soon saw the signs for PaxiB then it was full speed ahead for 180km Irene found the hotel when we arrived in the village, just over the bridge in the centre as described – however there is more than one bridge!. Taking the large vehicle down the driveway to the hotel was a major problem in total darkness. I found the gates and removed the heavy plant troughs blocking the driveway at the other end then a lady from the hotel flashed the torch along the driveway walking in front of Heiko driving with his last ounce of concentration. It was simple rooms for each person but that was all we needed. We all paid 8.00€ each and were given change in Ukranian notes – 20VA so one euro is 10VA. Petrol we observed was 10VA per litre – one euro. We crashed out solid that night and had a lie in until 09.00am
13th August 2013
I don’t know how we managed to get out of bed this morning, especially – especially Heiko after about 400km of driving yesterday. We wanted to change a few euros for breakfast but couldn’t at the hotel (but they happily took our euros last night!) We managed it at a bank on the corner but it wasn’t done to banking principles – the lady behind the counter put our euros in her purse and gave us Ukranian notes from her purse, you don’t see that back home! She would have been instantly dismissed! We received 100VA for 10€. Breakfast shared with Irene was 20VA for pasta and coffee then another coffee each at 5VA, total 2.50€ each. Heiko and Finn ate from supplies brought in the car. I have a look around the wooden hotel and stroll the river for ½ an hour in front of the hotel then at 10.45 we set off and cycle from the hotel. It was easy going at first, level along the left side of the river. I stopped to take a photo a lady who happily posed pulling a cow on a rope along the road. Irene understood her language, the lady remarked, “do you not have cows in your country?”. We reached a market area at the top of the lower pass on the way to BIG 832 Bukovel then we had to decide whether to take the new road to the left or continue on along the old road. I wish now we had taken the old road and came back on the new one. I know Heiko would have preferred this and it would have been variety. Bukovel was indicated as 8km from this point with three climbs and three descents along the way, the final descent being steep down to the ski resort. The first climb was quite steep up to the light wood church with the gold leaf roof, about 20% gradient but the other two not so difficult, the second climb has a great view across from the top and this can possibly be classed as the top as Bukovel itself is lower in the valley and a steep 2km descent to reach it. Coming back along the same road it is steep leaving Bukovel. The resort is modern, chairlifts and modern wooden chalet type buildings. We took photos at the Bukovel Hotel and was going to return on the old road but it seems to be undergoing repair. It’s closed in Bukovel (August 2013). We returned to the hotel at 2.15pm after 3.1/2 hours of cycling. At 3.00pm we head for the Romanian border to reach Borsa this evening. Before the border we buy our 3rd fill of petrol taking advantage of the Ukranian cheaper exchange. I buy a coffee 6VA and used my remaining 70VA to buy pistachio nuts 35VA, chocolate 13.50VA and 6.99VA (total 9.20€)– then we head for the border. We have a problem finding the border but eventually at 5.00pm after three attempts at cul de sacs we find the road and are questioned at the Ukranian side; where had we been, where are we going now, have you any opium in your bike tubes. The check was not as thorough as the point of entry. They didn’t look at the inside of the vehicle or check the engine this time. The Romanian customs officers were much more friendly, it was like coming home. One even spoke English. The Romanian side was of the town was much nicer, clean streets – even had a MacDonalds but Finn wasn’t going there – he didn’t see it. We changed money in Sighetu Marmateil at an ATM. I buy 500 Lei for 112€ , others did also. Heiko bought a vignette from a petrol station just as we crossed the border. We arrived in Borsa at 8.30pm and found the hotel at 9.00pm on the east side of the town about 3km distant at the foot of tomorrow’s cycling climb, BIG 856 Pasul Prislop. Francois was already at the hotel waving at us from his balcony having cycled two Romanian BIG’s today. He had booked us all in ‘solo sufi’ we were told – one passport is sufficient, we didn’t have to show our passports. The tariff was 100 Lei for a double room so 50 lei each (£10).The currency exchange rate was easier for me than the euros, 5 lei is £1.00. We had good meals this evening in the hotel. I had cheese, pork schnitzel, chips, mushrooms and two local Ursus beers all for 30 lei - £6. We split the total bill five ways. We retired earlier tonight at 11.00, a welcome change.
14th August 2013
Wednesday today, breakfast was two omelettes (for the Germans it was umlauts), cheese, fruit, coffee, two peach juices all for 13 lei £2.80. I was admiring the simple ski chairlift and the wooden church, at 9.45 we drove down to the foot of the climb at 3km nearer to Borsa outside of the tourist complex and cycle the Pasul Prislop BIG 856, 1416m and took 1.½ hours to reach the top. I rode alone, last as usual. Francois rode on ahead. Heiko drove to the top in the car and brought us all back so that we can arrange to meet the Hungarian group (Gabor Kreicsi, Yurgi Domoncos, Balasz Abrahams, Andrea Nagy, Sophia Domoncos) but then they were delayed now until 2.30pm. Heiko, Finn, Francois and I had schnitzels at the Ova garage where we were waiting for 2 hours while Irene settled down to a book and guarded the car. The meal was good, came complete with gherkins and soft drinks for 12.99 lei, £2.80. A debate took place on the difference between ghurkins and cucumbers or were they zucchinis? It passed the time. The coffee was only 1.99 lei, £1 but then the average income here is very low. That’s why half the population wants to come to British paradise and our wonderful free welfare state when the EU floodgates open this year. I found something else to do and helped Francois wash the cars – just our two that is, not the whole garage, not that bored.
We were relieved when the Hungarians finally arrived then Gabor immediately took over. Hold on, we’ve been waiting for you here for two hours. I drove the people’s carrier up Pasul Prislop while Irene drove the Hungarian van so the others could cycle. Earlier in the day we had enjoyed the cycle ride to the top crowned by the monastery to the right and a café and tall white obelisk to the left, and a gift shop worth a cursory glance. We were allowed in to the mountain monastery, the floor of which is coated with plush red carpet, the walls have hanging icons. Five Hungarians were cycling, one a lady. Another lady, the wife of Yurgi, couldn’t drive up the pass. Heiko rode with the Hungarians. We had a look around the monastery again and I went along to the café for a coffee, 4 lei. At 4.30 after photos we drove on again, Irene driving now to give Heiko a break. Our route was through Jacobeni to the south east then south west through Vatra Dornei to park on the right at the western edge of Poiana Stampei at the foot of Pasul Tihuta, BIG 857 1199m. Three of us set off first, Heiko followed with the Hungarians. I was going well part of the way before I spotted a hoarding on the right advertising Castle Dracula so of course I had to take a photo then I was trailing the others to the top. The road is a very good surface as it’s main road and not steep, just busy with constant traffic so we were careful to stay in the bike lane. A long climb to begin with, then a drop then a second climb to the masts on the left. We had a group photo here where Gabor set his camera on the ground with the self timer then ran to join the group for the cheesy photo. No view really, just sweaty bodies. Back down the pass to the cars and we drive back to Vatra and on to Vatra Moldovitei to the east in the Suceava area. This would be tomorrow’s playground. We had simple accommodation arranged by Gabor and arrived in the dark, parking just through the gates to the left and quickly had showers as we all needed to eat. Francois was there before us in his blue Renault Scenic and had already booked us in at a nearby restaurant, impressive organisation. I had chicken soup then weiner schnitzel, mushrooms and chips with a side salad. Shared a room with Francois and an early night as the Hungarian SAS team insisted we were up at 5.00am for the first pass of the day.
15th August 2013
We all woke like zombies partly somnambulating around the corridors, half dressed between clothing and shaving (and that’s only the women). We were bleary eyed as we sat down and shared a pre-breakfast around the table and the hot omelettes were fantastic, I had three, needed them for what was about to happen. Heiko had to tear me away from the table as the whole group were on their starting blocks. The route march on bikes set off in the dark with shrill barking orders in Hungarian for the first 10 kilometres as we approached the climb in single file due to passing traffic and only a few of us having lights. It was important to stay together to keep up the momentum. On the positive side, though it was useful cycling in each others slipstream. We were careful to keep Finn closed in front and back but he cycled so well. The pelaton style helped me a lot as well and for the first time I experienced the benefit of the group riding close together as I could also keep up a good fast pace that I wouldn’t do if I was cycling alone. The first hour we were cycling in the dark but on reaching the foot of the climb it was sunrise and the group started to disperse according to their individual climbing strength. Of course I was riding on my own! I was amazed at Finn who kept up with the fast Hungarians all the way to the top, and there were some steep sections on the Pasul Ciumarna, BIG 858. Irene was behind me and everyone else in front. First of all there is a long section to a hairpin and a further long section parallel above that followed by a dip then a series of hairpins to the top at 1099 metres. On the west side at the top is a huge white stone structure in the shape of a hand holding an arrow that points towards Russia. I took some photos but it was too misty up there, there was no view. I rode back down the mountain alone, amazed at the distance we had covered as a joint effort in the hour we took to get up there. It was almost an hour coming down. The road surface was average, only a few pot holes. Fin and Irene placed their bikes into the Hungarian van for the descent, maybe they had need of breakfast! I found my way down to the hotel near the narrow gauge railway line. Heiko was good enough to be on the look out and waved me into the hotel as I was looking for it along the road. There was a slight confusion with the streets but I was easily noticeable in the fluorescent jacket that Francois loaned to me for the early ride in the dark, and I needed it coming down as the descent was cold. I showered and joined the others for breakfast shared around the table, the hot cheesy omelettes made up for the cold There was plenty of coffee and bread and I was ready for the road again. We drove back to the main road at Campulung Moldovenesc then parked up near the road junction on the north side of the next climb heading for Rarau BIG 859 1484 metres, a distance of 15km. Francois already climbed these BIG’s while the rest of us were in Ukraine. This morning he was extremely thoughtful and got out of bed and drove behind our pelaton providing the light we needed. It was a sacrifice on his part, I’m sure he would have preferred sleep. Now he had his sleep in his car as we cycled to the Rarau. Heiko went to the top with the Hungarians and passed us coming down as we were halfway up. He returned later with the vehicle to collect us from the top of the road. He entrusted me with Finn as we rode together to the top. Fin was very inquisitive and asked me English word meanings. He had his English lesson on the way up! Equally I learnt more German, for instance what a mobile was, that’s handy! The first six kilometres of the pass was easy, just a slight rise; the final six were progressively tougher and hairpins later from 8km onwards. We had some rain and at just the right time the Hungarian car stopped ahead of me. It wasn’t for me but for the Hungarians coming up behind I soon found out. I dived into the car to get a pair of overshoes as it was now raining heavy but within 5 minutes these were wrestled off me by the Hungarian owner! I made do with two plastic bags. The rain soon went off and was dry the rest of the way, just overcast at the top. The Hungarian vehicle was at the end of the road where two tracks go off in both directions. Finn and I explored the left track along a white stony track past a large group barbecue to a group of small mountain huts to a point where we could see the masts ahead but didn’t go further, we turned back and took the other track to Rarau restaurant 200 metres away. I took some photos of the area and the distant tall rock formation. Finn was concerned to get back to where the Hungarian vehicle was so we did. Heiko had now returned and had been concerned where we had been until now. The Hungarians had told him we had taken the left track and he had gone to the masts and was suffering with the cold back at the car. The masts were in a cold mist, that’s why we decided not to go that way but unfortunately Heiko did and missed us when we took the track to the right even though we were only there 15 minutes. He loaded the bikes on to the car in agony from the cold. He was soon warm again from the heat in the car. Now the best way down was to take a short cut south down a rough muddy road to Pojoreta rather than the long distance further north and west through Vatra. We headed south to Crucea and on to Bicaz via the huge Izvorul Munteluil reservoir. This is very scenic skirting the lake high up giving a great view across. At the dam there was a huge crowd with barbecues enjoying a day’s holiday – St Mary’s Day. We had to negotiate many people and cars that slowed us down, slow progress to reach Bicaz. Irene had gone ahead with Francois in his car and already on the next cycle climb as we threaded through the melee. Eventually we reached Bicazu Ardelean and parked up by small cafés and shops on the right for the climb to Pasul Bicaz BIG 860 1240 metres. Francois and Irene were already climbing in the gorges ahead of us. I set off with Finn again, making good progress for 8km along a busy road passing industry. When we passed a stone quarry to the left the gorge scenery started. I didn’t expect this having not read anything about this road beforehand. The scenery became better further along as the gorge became deeper putting Cheddar Gorge in Somerset to shame. There was much traffic in the gorge and we and the Hungarians were busy taking photos of the gorge scenery and the fast flowing river. The scenery was grey sheer rock faces, rapids and a mountain ahead with a cross and a Romanian flag. Heiko said he would have liked to have climbed it – real climbing that is. Past the gorge and a sharp bend to the left then right and above it the scenery was less interesting as we passed the lake on the right. From there we passed through a road tunnel and 7 kilometres further to the top. . once there, on the right is the usual bare tree branch marker with fork branches with the height marker board attached. The Hungarian bus was parked there and loading up for the onward drive. Finn and I were unaware and started off going down again the same side for Heiko to pick us up – a misunderstanding that cost more time. The arrangement was that we all meet at the top for onward travel driving to Miercurea Ciuc, 110km distant. We met Francois and Irene coming up in the car who said we should be going the other way! They transported Finn and his bike and I tried to get a mobile signal to phone Heiko to pick me up but couldn’t. I cycled down further to the lake hoping I would get a signal there but again nothing so started cycling up the pass again, past the monument and camping field and was 5km from the top when I saw Heiko passing and frantically waved.
He stopped and explained the situation assuring him that Finn was with Francois and on their way to tonight’s destination. We now had a race against time to arrive at the memorial service for Jurgen at the large cathedral in Miercurea Ciuc. We met the Hungarian bus at the top and together drove west through Gheorgheni then south to the cathedral. We made it by the skin of our teeth – 15 minutes before. The last few kilometres were also a little difficult as we had to negotiate the town but the Hungarians knew the way as we threaded through the streets. We parked up, some changed quickly but I couldn’t as my clothes were deep in my rucksack somewhere so went in dressed inappropriately in cycle gear but nothing for it at this late stage, besides I think Jurgen would have smiled at the BIG vest. We all went to the mass but even not understanding Hungarian I didn’t hear Jurgen’s name mentioned. I asked of the Hungarians later and was told that the request to the priest came too late for Jurgen’s name to be mentioned. . I sat in there with Gabor and company while the others stood at the back. Gabor asked me what faith I was and he presumed Anglican. I didn’t understand a word of the service. The exercise was good though, up and down a lot. It could have been Ti-chi night but of course I had respect. This for us was to say goodbye to Jurgen even if his name wasn’t mentioned. Later, at 8.15, we walked across to the hotel opposite where Gabor had arranged we stay tonight, the friendly receptionist girl spoke excellent English that Francois and I enjoyed! Sauve sophisticated Francois was chatting up the receptionist then the waitress, he was good at it! I shared a room and we all enjoyed a good meal together at the hotel under cover outside as it was raining. I had goulash – plenty of meat in thick broth then mozzarella cheese fried in breadcrumbs, chips and mushrooms washed down with two large beers. We watched the dark procession of Catholics holding candles remembering St Mary’s Day. Over the meal we shared some good jokes, to bed at 11.00pm
16th August 2013
We deserved a sleep in! The Hungarians joined us for breakfast. Perhaps they were hungry. Francois was up at the crack of dawn and went for a walk around town. I rose at 7.30, a good lie in! We hit the road at 09.00 heading south for Brasov and the next climb, Pasul Bratocea BIG 8651274 metres. We park alongside a small reservoir south of Sacele. Francois, Fin and I cycle together and with suggestion by Francois keep up a good pace for the first gradual 8km by alternating in front until the climb begins. The Hungarians catch up with us and we go our separate ways according to individual pace. The road goes up through woods to reach the large indication board at the top on the right. I take several photos at Judental then return down. Many of the others were there when I arrived so was glad that I wasn’t too far behind. Back down to the van by the reservoir then we continued back to Brasov and headed for Dracula country. It was raining when we reached there. I read earlier of the copy of the Holywood sign on the hillside and there it was only it said ‘Brasov’ of course. We parked in Bran opposite Castle Bran where we could find space among the tourist traffic – macabre lot they are! We all set off together and soon I continue on my own in the rain but this eased. About 2/3 of the way up I remember an interesting wooden church on the left. The top of BIG 863 Pasul Bran 1268 metres, wasn’t anything spectacular. I continued over to ensure I was at the top. There was a small café there at the top but couldn’t buy a drink as I left everything except the camera in the car and was a little troubled because I was the last one down and had this sudden insecurity feeling of not being able to go back to England and having to cycle the whole continent to get home as I had no money, passport – no nothing! I pedalled fast down the mountain and never so glad to see Heiko waiting for me by the van, such unfounded stupidity, perhaps Dracula horror had something to do with it. I took some photos of Castle Bran before we all made our way back towards Brasov but took a left at Rasnov for Sercaia to the north then a left (west) along a level road for Fagaras where we would stay the night at Hotel Parc. We had our meal in an outside open area in the hotel and where we had good meals and beers. That evening I had a walk around the open castle area and among the crowds at the St Mary’s Day festival. I noticed those large bread cylinders being rolled out that we bought in the gorge at Paul Bicaz. I bought a magnet of Brasov and was given one but little else that I would like to remember the place so back to the hotel.
17th August 2013
The following morning we drove along the level road away from Fagaras to the west then to the south at Cartisoara for BIG 862 Pasul Balea, 2026 metres,the highest and most spectacular of all the Romanian roads. The area is called Transfagarasan and for 35km this was a very interesting road. Francois was ahead and rang Heiko to warn of a security problem parking in Cartisoara and suggested an area after the village on the left. We took his advice and saw his car there. Bikes unloaded and we were out along a level road to begin with through open countryside. After a few kilometres the scenery changes as the road rises and ahead were a series of bridges crossing the steep wall of the head of the valley over which the road criss-crossed in hairpins to reach the height. The bridges also span a fast flowing cascade. At the lower part of the cascade a cable-car starts at Cocucola. The others were coming down just as I reached the top and I said I wouldn’t be long – but I was! The others were annoyed at my late return but I was really enjoying this and wouldn’t be coming this way again. At the top I took many photos and stayed for an hour, leaving at 2.00pm. I went to the tunnel – took a photo of an English car up there laden with bikes then was captivated by the blue lake, so peaceful was the setting surrounded by the mountains. I sat on a rock with a can of lager (5 lei) taking in the scene bought from one of the many stalls lining the east side of the road as far as the tunnel. I stopped many times on the way down taking photos of the serpentine road, cascade and rock memorials. Heiko sent me a text, “where are you?” at 2.45 – I should have been down and now an hour late. He came up to collect me, parking at the edge of one of the lower hairpins where I still had 10km to go. I had my tail between my legs and apologised. We met up with the Hungarians and together drove to Sibiu and booked in at pre-arranged Hotel Park, There was a huge problem parking our three vehicles, the car park was taken up with many cars with bikes on top. We found out there was bike event here near the hotel tomorrow. More time wasted here wrangling over parking spaces and we also had to check into our rooms. Francois had to remove his car from the bus park to the left of the hotel and park it further down the street. Once done we set off in pelaton formation at 5.00pm to the right of the hotel to crossroads then right again following a railway track to Rasinari village of terraced low houses to the south west. Once at the village we broke formation where the climb started then came six widely spaced hairpins to Paltinis BIG 861 at 1446 metres. From the village we were soon in open country, moorland scenery further up. From Sibiu it is 31km and 900 metres height difference. It’s a gentle rise up from the village to a high pasture where farmers were leading their sheep. I reached a point with the pelaton just before the beginning of the hairpins. Irene was behind me somewhere but everyone else infront. When I reached a clearing there was a plateau at 5km from the top then a rise again after the Aventura playpark. I eventually made it there but my feet were burning. I was surprised that the others were on the way down only at the 2km point from the end of the climb, I thought they would be well ahead. There was nothing of note at the top and why would we come here only to conquer a BIG? Some kids were selling fruit and there was a café to the left along a track but it was closed. At the top was a gendarmia (police) car. On the way down I bellowed at a mad dog snapping at my heels – hates cyclists but loves human chop. I discovered I left my handy in the people carrier so couldn’t ring Heiko to give him my location. He met me 3km from the hotel but I continued a I was wearing a fluorescent jacket and reached the hotel just before gathering darkness. Irene had also just arrived. We had a wonderful evening meal outside around the back of the hotel where we al settled our debts. I paid my share for the petrol and vignettes – 112.50€ and 300€ for my share of the hire vehicle – it was a bargain really when a few people share. Heiko was happy I had the ready money and I was happy because I knew I totally relied on his expert driving, and sometimes in difficult terrain, to drive us all through Slovakia, Ukraine, Hungary and Romania. We retired at 11.00pm.
18th August 2013
Time to say goodbye, last pass and last gasp. I shared Francois’ car as we drove a huge distance (250km – 156 miles) from Sibiu west through Sebes, Deva and Varfurile and parked at Budureasa for BIG 864 Stine de Vale. Heiko, Finn and Irene followed soon after. We waited for them to enjoy their final company. Before that Francois and I bought water, orange juice, ice cream and chocolate from a shop across from the parking area in the centre of the village. It was hot today, probably the hottest day of all. Cycling up through the woods we came to two sections of cobbles on two of the bends. We all stayed together on the lower section. Soon Heiko and Francois were deep in conversation, Finn and Irene were behind me and feeling the heat. There wasn’t much to see at the top but it’s clearly marked by a gateway straddling the road, the same as at the start of the climb near Budereasa below. We took the usual photos and poses then back down and said our goodbyes. I remarked to Finn that one day he will overtake his father on the number of BIG’s claimed and that it will be worth watching his progress over the years. Francois and I drove away at about 3.00pm cross-country west to Salonta then south through Arad and Timisoara to the Serbian border at Moravita then continued through Vrsac to Belgrade (330km – 206 miles). Timisoara is a large town and I remember it being in the news of a massacre that took place there during the Ceausescu regime years. We were at the Serbian border for about an hour, the longest border crossing yet. It went dark while we were waiting there, stuck behind lorries. I tried to change my remaining Romanian money while we were waiting but it wasn’t possible. We looked for accommodation in Vrsic but nowhere to be seen so carried on for Belgrade along the main road devoid of street lighting. It was a long way to the city, passing first of all through Pancevo then sudden civilization with street lights and many cars all the way to the city. We found a hotel on the right, priced it but too expensive so asked for others. We tried three more before we found Hotel Excelsior to the left at 9.30pm. We parked in a side street allowed until 8.00am then settled down for some warm baguettes in the hotel restaurant as it was too late to order meals. That would do us until morning when we could get a substantial breakfast.