BIG 896 Mount Avala, south of Belgrade 506 metres. From NW 4.7km. From SW 5.5km (harder) NW: From road Kruzni Put E75 at junction with road 200 from Jajinci south of Belgrade. Through Beli Potok to Put Za Avalu, circuit back again to road 200. SW: from road 204 coming from Vrcin to the east 2km, joins with road. Take right turn on road 200 then a right turn on to Put Za Avalu and circuit 200 506 6.5% 14.1% 4.7 288
19th August 2013
From Hotel Excelsior we take a walk around the city, I try to change my remaining Romanian banknotes but unable to, walk as far as gaunt towering Hotel Moscow then back to the car and have difficulty finding the correct road for Mount Avala. We were following the river but then saw a road going up and in the correct direction so took it. For a while we were too far east but we could see the mast ahead. At one point we ended at a cul de sac in a suburban area but eventually we found the road with the mast ahead as our landmark. We drive to the north west foot of our first climb for the day now that we are only two (sounds a bit like A. A Milne’s Winnie the Pooh but that was six!) We leave the car at the top of the pass on the gravel car park in front of the large grey building in front of the flower beds and walkways then freewheel down through the woods to the base of the mountain then turn the bikes around for the ascent. The way up is along a pleasant narrow road through the woods, marked with pot holes but the surface is fine for cycling. We take photos at the top. There is a final ramp to the right of the building at the top that leads to the mast. Back to the car then we drive on for Novi Sad to the north west out of Belgrade along the motorway then south to Irig.
BIG 897 Iriski Venac, south of Novi Sad, Serbia. 516 metres. From the north: 9km (harder) S: 8km N: From Petrovaradin district in Novi Sad on bend of the river, follow river on the east (left) bank, heading south. Sremska Kamenica away from the river, Popovica, road 21, later go left at crossroads to the top. S: From Ruma on Viska road heading N on road 21 through Irig, right at crossroads to top. 19/8/13 248 516 3.4% 6.8% 8 143
From Irig we drive to the top of Iriski Venac by the huge white obelisk crowning the top of mountain then freewheel down returning to Irig. There was a great deal of traffic on this road making the descent slow. Francois had reached Irig and was on his way up again and shortly I was a few kilometres behind being squeezed into the very edge of the road by thunderous continuous streams of deafening lorries in low gear belching out fumes on the way up. Francois was concerned (thanks!) and waited part way up and together we suffered the lorries to the top. It was good that the final 2km of the climb was along a quiet road to the right through pleasant woodland along a narrow gravel lane. We stopped for cokes (120 each) as it was so hot after the struggle. The café is at the end of the main road climb, just the final 2km to follow back to the car and the inevitable photo session. Later we drive north west for Pecs in Hungary and for the Misina, the mountain of Pecs. We drive through Kula, Somor and Bezdan over the Danube to the extreme north east point of Croatia at Kozarac then north to Udvar and into Hungary then west at Mohacs for Pecs at gathering dusk. Yasmine had texted Francois a hotel close to the foot of Misina for our climb in the morning. Hotel Makur. We enjoyed a fabulous evening meal above a sports centre. Not sure if Francois went swimming but I enjoyed a sauna.
20th August 2013
BIG 855 Misina (Hungary) 529 metres, from the south west (harder) 5.8km, from the south 7km. Both climbs start from Pecs. From the south west start on Pacsirta St in Csoronika district, head north on Donatusi Ut, Kisdeindol in Balics district, Erdesz in Szkoko to Angyan. The other road from the south begins at Mosque of Gazi, head directly north, road becomes Hunyadi Janos St, this becomes Demokracia St and joins the south west road at Angyan Janos then continues. 20/8/13 125 529 5.8% 13.7% 7 357
We cycled together from the hotel at 6.00am to relax over a well deserved breakfast later in the fabulous restaurant. Francois had already explored the lower part of the climb in the Renault, though not without difficulty. He received a bump on the back wheel arch reversing out of a cul de sac. He eventually found the foot of the south west route of the climb and returned to the hotel before 6.00. Together we took the steep gradient through the northern suburbs, some very steep roads. Francois was cycling the same roads but doing twice my distance! After the houses the roads are not as steep and pass through woods. I noticed an overgrown disused railway to our right. At the top is a tall white concrete tower with outbuildings. I stayed for a while taking photos, Francois already returned to the hotel. I retraced our route up; fantastic vies across to the south. There is a similarity here to the descent from Mow Cop, but of course a longer descent. I took some photos of the four towered castle and walls of Pecs then found my way back on the quiet streets to the hotel to the west of the town. Once there we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast – even had bacon and eggs and other warm goodies. This was plenty to stock up for the rest of the day. From Pecs we drive through Donji Miholac and Slatina where there was slight confusion finding the road south for Ceralije. It was raining a little. Once found we headed further south to Slatinski Drenovac and the foot of the next BIG
BIG 888 Nevoljaz Pass, NE Croatia. 761 metres. From south 10.5km, From the north 9.5km (hardest) North from Vocin, road south west at Ceralije, road south, a little to the east of Ceralije, roads join. Continue south. At next fork the climb begins at Slatinski Drenovac to the top. South from Velika rail station, left (north) on to Ulica Hrvatskih Branitelja. Climb begins in Velika north past Turski Grad 20/8/13 178 761 6.1% 9.9% 9.5 434
We drive over the north side heading towards Velika over the pass, the road being dusty, narrow and stony but as we later found out it wasn’t as bad as the southern descent. We made the mistake of driving over in the hope of climbing a better surface from the south but the road on the other side wasn’t stony – it was rocky! We couldn’t ride our bikes up there and we would be walking to the top. We abandoned this climb and perhaps return one day to conquer the ascent on mountain bikes. There is a walking area among rock crevices and over series of wooden bridges spanning gorges on the north side of the pass about 2km from the top. At the top is an open clearing with a large wooden hut. Maybe this is for scouts or outward bound activities. In Velika we enjoyed cokes in the hot sunshine then drove north west for Zagreb through Pozega, Nova Graduska and Kutina. Once in Zagreb we headed north to Medvednica Sljeme (The Bear in English) and booked in at Hotel Tomislavov Dom at the top of the mountain. Yasmine had pre-booked this for us, Francois’ wonderful secretary!
BIG 882 Sljeme, Zagreb 1032 metres. From the south 15.5km, from the north 17km (harder) From the south head directly north from Zagreb on road Ksaverska Cesta, right bend then left turn on to Bliznec for Medvednica Sljeme, numerous hairpins. From the north at Stubicke Toplice on Viktoria Sipeka, road 307. Take right fork on to Zagorskih Brigada, left on to Naselje Podgaj, right on Pustodol, becomes Donja Podgora, there’s a tower at top. 20/8/13 248 1032 5.1% 10.10%15.5 516
From Hotel Tomislavov Dom We removed the bikes from the car and glide down to the foot of the mountain at the road called Bliznec then reverse direction for the climb. It’s a one way system however we descended against the one way to be sure of our route back up as the road down arrives in Zagreb at a different location nearby but we didn’t want to waste time searching for it as we had only two hours of daylight remaining. From the foot the first two kilometres follow an interesting river route where there were plenty of walkers on a parallel path and many cyclists on the road, most of which finished at the large wooden mill and pub at the foot of the climb. From here there is a sudden turn to the left where the gradients start then the way up was through dense woods and many zigzags to the top, not particularly steep. I was alone and followed a group of cyclists a good part of the way. Towards the top the dense woods thin out giving broad views across the landscape below over Zagreb. At the top is a large TV mast and concrete structure and before that ski matting and a chairlift at the top of the ski slopes. There was just time before gathering dusk to take photos. Later we drive down to Zagreb, park in an underground parking lot near the cathedral and explore the sites of Zagreb centre and go for a pasta meal at an outdoor restaurant then back to the hotel.
21st August 2013
We drive south east from Zagreb along the motorway to Okucani then south to the Bosnian border at Bosanska Gradiska for the following climb but realise the road from the east side isn’t suitable for cycling.
BIG 892 Mrakovica 804 metres, Bosnia. From the NE 8km, from the SW 14.5km (hardest) From the south west starting at Kozarac after road M4, right hairpin to top From the NE starting at Gornji Podgradci, left fork, left again, next right, to Dera then right hairpin to the top. 21/8/13 338 804 5.8% 10.8% 8 362. 2KM (Bosnian currency) = 1€.
We continue driving to the top at Mrakovica passing Gorni Podgradci but no indication of a village as we passed through road-works and tree-felling and over a very rough road; this was our introduction to Bosnia, Francois finding it difficult to drive. It was scary as in many places the rock walls alongside the road were being reconstructed with heavy plant machinery and there was much debris on the road. Francois asked a workman and was assured it was safe to continue. We were relieved to emerge at a good road surface near the top and took a right to the squat tower and small car park beside a simple café. We leave the car here and descend the western side of Mrakovica on a good road surface down to Kozarac. We begin our climb back up to Mrakovica from the large white mosque in the town, mainly up through forest road passing under a wooden arch, the entrance to the national park. Motorists have to pay but we were fine. We wondered if we would have to pay a toll returning back down in the car late but as we found out they probably presumed we had driven up the same way and already paid the toll. Who in their right mind would drive up the mountain from the other direction? I took some photos at the memorial area in front of white steps and stone crucifix in the small village, Mrakovica then on to the top, a left turn. At that point was an information plate indicating that the road east was being reconstructed with EU funds. Back to the car, then back down to Kozarac. We drive south east to Banja Luka then south through gorge scenery to Jajce and Bugojno. We book in at a hotel just south of the town on the left on the Livno road. After biking in we begin the next climb.
BIG 890 Kupreska Vrata 1384 metres. From the north east 23km (harder). From the south 25km. From the north east start at Bugojno on road M16 direction Alibegovic. From the south start at Suica M16 road to left of Bogdasic, Kupres 21/8/13 569 1384 3.5% 10.8% 23 687
We drove on a short distance from Bugojno then bundled the bikes out of the car for the climb to Kupreska Vrata where the road summit ends at a road tunnel after 20km of steady ascent on a quiet forested road. There’s a clearing at the top for a view west but other than the blue summit indicator plate there is nothing more at the top, dusk now and reversing direction back down to the car where Francois had ridden ahead being a fast descender and was ready for loading the bike, it was dark now as we made our way back to the hotel and an evening meal in the restaurant.
22nd August 2013
BIG 891 Makljen 1122 metres. From the south 11.5km (hardest). From the north 12.5km. From the north at Bugojno, road M16-2, heading south through Vrbanja, Humac, Ploca, Gornji. From the south heading north from Lug, road M16-2, Prozor-Rama 21/8/13 676 1122 3.6% 9.2% 12.5 263
Following breakfast we drove a short distance towards Gornji Vakuf, parking by a garage on the right and cycled the first climb of the day, 12km to Makljen. The road rises gradually following a cutting in the rock face for some distance. At the time there were road works taking place at a long sweeping bend to the left. Heavy plant machinery at this point slowed traffic down at a one way system at lights but once through the way was clear and the scenery opens out to the left of the road on the ascent from the north. At the top is an open clearing, nothing exciting, no landmarks. Asked Francois to record my photo at the top, taken in a ditch by the summit marker! Back down the road again and to the car for an onward journey now to Sarajevo. We drive back over Makljen to Jablanica. It’s wonderful scenery along this road with mountain and river gorge scenery. I took many photos. We took a left (east) at Jablanica through Konjic to Sarajevo. The approach road along the valley into the city was jaw-dropping because we could see bullet holes in many of the buildings lining the road towards the centre. We didn’t stop in Sarajevo but continued on to look for the climb to Johorina.
BIG 893 Johorina, south of Sarajevo. 1563 metres. From NW 28km, from N 33km, E 27km (hardest) North West: Head south west on Bjelopoljska Cesta, starts south of Stadion Grbavica, go through Lukavica, take a left on to Cesta Lukavica-Toplik, on through Toplik then Klek, Jasik, Vlahovic then take a right to the top south of Jahorina. North: from Pale, east of Sarajevo, take road Jahorinska through Radonjici. East: From just south of Kukavica, take right turn through Mesica, follow the river, through Karacici, Renovica, then on road M5, Praca, Podgrab, then take a left, through Gute to Jahorina 22/8/13 541 1563 3.7% 12.2% 28 723We start the climb from Pale from the north after a needed hot meal, we had spaghetti bolognese from a hotel, nice place, good food but very cheap. We leave the car at the hotel there and cycle across the main road and take the slip road then off to the left where the climb begins. Fairly steep at first then again later also after the road junction, left fork for Johorina as the right fork is for Srbsko Mountain south of Sarejevo and this road emerges on the road going south from the city. Continuing past the road junction for approx 10km we arrive at Johorina, the 1984 Olympic village now in a bad state after the civil war. There are hotels here, a final sweep of the road to the left that I thought was the top however Francois managed to find a turning to the right that led to the higher part of the Olympic village overlooking Johorina village. While I was back at the road junction waiting for my lift he appeared from behind - as the last thing he said that he was on his way down while I took photos. He had been to the Olympic Village above Johorina. So from here back to the car at the hotel, back up to this junction and to the right this time to Srbsko in the hope of finding the correct road up from Sarajevo to the Olympic Village – but as it turned out we had been on the correct road – there was no other. From there back to Sarajevo. We had a walk of the main streets, mainly single storey shops on the cobbled streets. By the town well we saw a hotel, bullet holed ridden, a poignant reminder of the civil war. There was a film festival going on, took some photos of VIP’s but who were they? We drove back to Bugojno via Travnik, corrected confusion on dark roads leading to Zenica.
23rd August 2013
No meal last night as we were late back at 23.00 so enjoyed a good breakfast at the second night at the Bugojno hotel. We drive over Kupreska Vrata, through Livno and past Buska Jezero, a huge lake near the border with Croatia, few formalities at the border then over mountainous terrain to Sinj and a long drive north to Gospic then headed for the coast as far as Brusane on the Stara Vrata road.
BIG 887 Stara Vrata 928 metres. From the west 15.5km (hardest), From the east 13km West from Karlobag on the coast, road 25 just north of the town, hairpins to top. East from Brusane, also road 25, through Baske Ostarije. 23/8/13 18 928 5.9% 14.3% 15.5 752
We cycle from the inland side of Stara Vrata from Brisane because of lack of time to complete the remaining BIG’s in Croatia tomorrow and to cycle Oltare from the coast later today. We wasted it really because the challenge is really from the coast at Karlobag. It’s a classic BIG from that side, tough and relentless and I was disappointed when we later drove from Bisane over Stara Vrata and down the winding curves to Karlobag. It was very easy cycling from Brisane in the east to the top of the ‘climb’, only 10km, first up a short steep section then to the radio mast and down a section to a flat road for about 3km to the final section off to the right to the squat turret containing a tourist information booth, nearby is a pillar that marked the top. Without turning right there was a tunnel just ahead followed by the descent to Karlobag. I think the section of road at the mast is higher than the pillar. From there after the usual photos we rode back to the car then back over the pass, through the tunnel and down to Karlobag and north to Sveti Juri.
BIG 886 Oltare 944 metres, from the west only, 15km from Sveti Juraj on the coast. Just south of the town on road 8 E65 go inland and up through Biljevine 23/8/13 7 940 6.1% 11.4% 15.3 696
We were captivated by Sveti Juraj the moment we arrived. It’s a small harbour with simple cafes on the waterfront and great views across the peaceful water to Rab and Krk. We enjoyed a meal here under a canopy sheltering from the hot sun and gazing out to the small boats bobbing up and down in the waves and to the islands beyond. We relaxed for an hour here at Konaba Kiko restaurant taking in the scene with the car parked nearby. Later we bundled the bikes out of the car and rode the sharp incline to the main road then across and to the right and then off to the left for Oltare. The road winds round the hillside among heather and palms interrupted by the summer sound of crickets. We traversed several hairpins to arrive in more open country with fantastic views back to the islands after Biljevine. The closest small island is Otocic Lisac just off the coast at Sveti Juraj. This made for great sunset shots with the two much larger islands on the way down later. Oltare village we passed through, a few twists of the road through there and a few metres higher, one kilometre further to the very top in the trees then we reversed to go down again. I started taking photos right away, first of the sign for Oltare then when the islands came into view I was amazed at the scene with the sun on the horizon and the water shimmering with a red carpet in front. It slowly went down – as we went down. We admit to some emotion as we took it all in, it was quite fantastic. I took videos of the seascape and islands, silver water, silhouette islands in the red rays of the setting sun – beautiful – and some crazy people believe in evolution. Oh what a beauty is chance. Stay simple and never loose the sense of wonder! Back down to the car, eventually, as we both took our time descending the pass. For Francois it must have been his slowest descent ever. Gathering dusk at Sveti Juraj, we bought a bottle of juice and downed it then drove on for Senj where w found a place to stay away from the waterfront on the edge of the town inland on the Vratnik road. It was a bit run down on the outside but inside we had a plush apartment with a kitchen, and cheap at 40€. Later we had a meal at a nearby restaurant, sitting outside in the warm evening and crashed out early as we would have an early start tomorrow to climb the three final Croatian BIG’s.
24th August 2013
BIG 885 Vratnik 694 metres. From the west 14.5km (hardest). From the east 3.5km From the west starts at Senj on the coast, Road Stara Cesta 23 through Senjska Draga. From the east at Zota Lokva road 23 through Melnice 24/8/13 24 694 4.6% 8.8% 14.5 442
We left everything in the room and assured the owner that we would return later to pay as we were cycling to Vratnik. We left at 6.15am for a two hour ride up and down. We reached the summit marker situated on a bend to the left in a crevice of red sandstone. There are ruins of an old fort at the top on the left and a small mast. Other than these landmarks, nothing more. On the way down I stopped to photo and see the old Napoleonic well structure on the left. From there back to the hotel where we paid our dues then went to the waterfront and had a buffet breakfast in a hotel for 7€ each. We ate well as Francois warned that the next climb would be particularly tough. Coupled with that the weather was hot as I reminded Francois from the English comedy ‘Alo, alo’ where Yvette says “Oh Rene, es iz zo ‘ot!”
BIG 883 Ucka Vojak, Istra Peninsula 1372 metres. From NW 14km. From NE 23km (hardest) From NW follows main road B8/E751 from Matalji through Pobri, Brgi then left before Tunnel Uicka up Vela Ucka to the top, road starts just to the west of Rijeka. From the NE, starts at Vranja on road 500
It was a long drive to reach the Istra Peninsula through Crikvenica then took to the back roads inland due to traffic congestion heading north on the coast road so passed through Susik, Candrli and Krizisce to reach the motorway and avoid Rijeka then on to the Istra Peninsula where we could see ahead the tower at the top of our next climb. We passed through the motorway tunnel to emerge at the Vranja turn off. We took this and parked at the Gobert local – Dan’s Café at the foot of Ucka Vojak. We emerged into searing heat and the sound of frantic crickets going ten to the dozen. Francois was glad of a cap in the heat but part way up it was too hot to wear it. Yvette would have agreed. It was an exposed hot ride back to the motorway entrance then shortly past it we had the luxury of tree cover occasionally. We agreed to stop three times for 10 minutes on the way up – to drink and wipe sweat! Further up we were a little confused with directions, expecting a right turn to the top was this it? Francois asked a parked lorry driver and was directed on to the next right turn a few kilometres on. At a café we turned right then above it and 7km through dense woods along a narrow lane to the huge white globe and mast and a walk over a stony path for the final ½km to the top at a souvineer shop inside a stone tower topped by a turreted viewing platform. Francois already there conversing with Yasmine to arrange accommodation tonight in Trieste. We drive on through Lupoglav to Roc where Francois received a speeding fine but it was ridiculous. The policeman was hiding behind a bush with a speed camera for easy pickings on an open road, no village just scattered houses. I would have done the same thinking it was only countryside. He paid the equivalent of 25€, drawing it out from a cash machine in the walled off-road village. Eventually we were in Buzet then took a left for Livade and parked up for the final BIG of Francois’ tour and of my second part of my tour. 24/8/13 282 1372 7.9% 13% 13.8 975
BIG 884 Motovun, Istra Peninsula 277 metres. Direction from north west only, 3.3km. From Livade head directly south over crossing road 44, final clockwise circuit to top along Vladimera Gortana 24/8/13 131 277 4.4% 10% 3.3 95
Bikes unloaded we headed for the hillside ahead crowned with the walled town of Motovun. Here was Provence in Croatia. This is a fabulous place! The road up is steep but only an hour to the top. We had croquet monsieur and beers to celebrate our victories – and also to dispense with remaining Croatian currency. We stayed a while. For me it is a resemblance to St Paul de Vence near Nice in the south of France.
I phoned Ruth from our café at the top. I had a look around the small town, took plenty of photos along the cobbled streets then made my way slowly down to very patient Francois waiting below in Lavade. The intention was to cross into Slovenia directly north in the Sluznica area but we were turned back. It was explained to us that the border was only for Croatians and Slovenians to pass. It was such a small border, just a swing post separating us from a quick trip to Trieste and I’m sure Francois felt urged to cross anyway but we turned back and headed for the international border point further east after Buzet then north through Socerga and over the Italian border at Rabuiese into Trieste. We found Jasmine’s arranged hotel, Hotel Brioni on Via Ginnastica, at 9.00pm and go for a final meal at a pizzeria nearby.
25th August 2013
We were out of the hotel at 7.30. It was raining this morning as we left to look for breakfast across the city street over a piazza. We found a typical breakfast bar and had coffees and paninis then bundle our rucksacks into the car and head for the airport at Monfalcone 38km away (25miles) at 9.30. Francois was good enough to park his car next to my hired car at the airport and I transferred my bike and rucksack. Francois travels on to Manosque near Mont Ventoux to collect Jasmine, a 10 hour drive. Collected the hire car, a Lancia Targa at 11.00 from Trieste airport for 11 days until 4th September for £281.66 plus full waiver insurance from Rentalcars.com and return to Trieste airport. Any damage claim back from Rentalcars.com. 300 forint = £1 or 270 forint = 1€. Fortunately no damage happened! I drive from Monfalcone at 11.15 on the autostrada through Llubljana, Celje, Maribor, Lendeve, Balaton, Szekesfehervar, Bickse, Tatabanya to Estzragom 282 miles @40mph = 7 hours. It was a bit late for a restaurant meal so bought doner and chips 650 = 300 (£3) then slept in the car on a side road by the roundabout at the foot of the road for Dobogocko. I chatted with an English girl at the take-away who was surprised that I didn’t know that we were right on the Danube at this point and the border for Slovakia.
26th August 2013
BIG 850 Dobogocko, Hungary 699 metres. From the NW at Esztergom 1.5 hours
The alternative route is from Pomaz on road Kossuth heading north west from the town, road becomes Beniczky St following north bank of river, road then becomes Margitliget Way. Continue through Pankotsteto, Pilisszentkereszt. Take a right at crossroads to road Tery Odon St, Manreza and Dobogocko. I decided against this because I didn’t want to negotiate Budapest driving.
The best about sleeping in the car; early rise because of cold feet and steamed up windows. I was away at 07.00 from Esztergom. There’s nothing much at the top except a straggly village. I saw an old café in a ram-shackled drab building set back from the road and asked for breakfast but it wasn’t up to much but filled a gap, a cold Viennese sausage and lukewarm coffee. Further along at the other end of the village there’s an unusual wooden layered effect building in the shape of an upturned boat. I wandered in and found out this was a café also. It’s by the side of a camp site and the place was full. The restaurant was based on the plans of Imri Makovecz and built in 1980 and the area is a Buddhist centre called the Heart of Chakra, one of seven around the world. Many people up there hugging one another. There was no view here because of dense woods. I was hoping to see Budapest from this high point. I turned back and returned the same way to the road junction for Budapest then to the right and two bends and returned through woods then a straight road through a clearing connecting hillsides then down again through more woods to more level ground 3km from Esztergom. Past a huge Tesco distribution area and into the town. I passed along a street of single storey terrace housing to the Catholic basilica, the largest in Hungary and seat of the Primate. I wandered across to the huge girder bridge spanning the Danube and the border with Slovakia then returned to the car and drove off at 10.30 following the south bank of the Danube through Komarom. Gyor is a lot different from when I wad last here before the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Ruth and I visited the town when it was far less busy. The only cars were old Trabants and Skodas. Now it’s a busy modern town. I took a left turn on the Veszprem road to Ecs then parked up by a petrol station for the next bike climb. Drive to Gyor on road 10 through Dorog, Komarom. In Gyor take road 82 for Veszsprem to Ecs 110km (68 miles) 2 hours.
BIG 853 Pannonhalma 256 metres. At Ecs take a left on to road To Ut then second left on Hunyadi St to Pannonhalma Archabbey. Return on To Ut and take a left then rejoin road 82 again and turn right at Ravazd back to start, 12km round trip 1.5 hours.
Just south of Ecs I took the second turning to the left, bundled the bike out of the car and approached Pannonhalma Benedictine Arch-abbey from the south. The ‘climb’ is no real challenge and I was up and down again within the hour but had to do it as it’s on the list. I suppose it’s the media element that makes it a BIG as it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.
At 3.00pm I drive back to Gyor then head north-west on the motorway to the Austrian border, using up my remaining forint to buy a street map of Graz (£9 equivalent) then over the border to Vienna but staying on the motorway through traffic chaos of four-lane traffic heading south for Graz, 172 miles. 4.5 hours. Motorway NW from Gyor through Moson-Magyarovar, road 931 Eisenstadt (A), Weiner Neustadt, road A2/E59 to Graz through Pitten, Pinkafeld, Ilz. I arrived in Eggenberg at 7.00pm to be greeted by Petra at the main door, “Kevin, is it really you?” Well it had been some years! I couldn’t pass through Styria and Carinthia without visiting Petra. I stayed over one day and left Graz again on 28th August. My only rest day in a month’s tour. I had tea with Petra and retired to a room provided at 9.00pm. I caught up with my diary and re-packed my rucksack and took advantage of a much needed early night in a comfortable bed after a glorious shower and slept solid.
27th August 2013 Graz
Up at 07.00 and walk around the grounds for an hour, breakfast at 08.00 then we go for a walk around Schloss Eggenburg – 20 years since I was last here. Lunch at 11.30, spoke with Helmut and Johanna on the phone. Her mother is 92 and suffering from kidney failure. In the afternoon I drive Petra to see her family; Marianne, Hansi, Johann and his wife and son in Sinabelkirchen then we drive out to Resa’s care home and later a walk around Graz centre, taking the tram into the city. We manage to walk up to the Uhrturm and enjoy the fantastic view looking out over the black rounded shape of the Kunsthaus and over the red roofs of the city spread out below to the distant hills. We walk down to the town and the Mur but was getting dark, later back for tea at 8.30pm then another early night for more cycling tomorrow as I head west for my final two BIG’s in Austria.
28th August 2013
Petra very kindly accompanied me in the car to the edge of Graz where I was sure to be on the correct road heading west out of the city for Knittelfeld. Graz to Knittelfeld, 58 km (36 miles) 1.5 hours, via Peggau , St Michael, road E97/A9. Tunnel toll through the Gleinalm 8.00€, Left turn in St Michael on road S36, direction Judenberg. 1 hour. I found the foot of the Austrian climb at St Margarethen easily enough.
BIG 654 Gleinalmsattel. Austria. 1586 metres. From the west only 17.3 km.
From Knittelfeld, north of the rail station at Gobernitz district on road Hauptstrasse through Sankt Margarethen, right turn at crossroads on to road Gleinstrasse following Glein river through Vordere Rachau, Gleingraben, Hauskapelle Halscheck. 11.00 – 2.30pm , 3.5 hours to the top taking the left fork after Halscheck. A bulldozer was active clearing the track near to the top but the deep tracks resulted in the surface being churned up making cycling difficult so I walked the remainder. It was made even worse by uprooted trees on the track blocking the way forward.
I came down to the car again in ½ an hour then from 3.00 to 4.30pm driving south through Obdach, Bad Sankt Leonhard to just south of Wolfsberg at Sankt Stefan, Carinthia where I parked up on the left at a green clearing before the final Austrian climb. Drove Knittelfeld to Wolfsberg, Road 78, direction Klagenfurt via Zeltweg, Odbach, Bad Sankt Leonhard to south of Wolfsberg at Sankt Stefan, Carinthia. 52km, 32 miles. 1.5 hours. It was raining in the valley while driving but not at all on either of the climbs cycling.
BIG 659 Grosser Speikkogel. Austria 2120 From the west only. 15.4 km.
From Sankt Stefan/Maildorf south of Wolfsberg on Gemmersdorfstrasse road L140 take a left on road Maildorf L149, becomes Koralpenhohenstrasse, take an acute right turn that immediately bends left on road Goding. The way up is extremely steep from the start. After leaving an open area above Maildorf the road swings to the right and enters tree cover and after 3km the village Rieding is reached. This is the only time to breathe on the whole route as the road levels for a short distance then climbs again relentlessly. After Walkdrast where there is a hotel of sorts to the right there is another steep section before the skiing area is reached where road L149 ends. There was a café there but had to press on because of failing daylight hours. From there an acute turn to the right and under a pole barrier that leads to the top after a further 3km. My experience of the climb was in thick fog and no view of course, very disappointing. I reached Koralpenhutte that loomed out of the mist on the right then began a counter clockwise climb around the barren mountainside, some of the fog clearing. I could see the cable-car off to the left and eventually reached the radar station complex at the top but unfortunately no view as I was back into fog. It’s a huge structure with a wider upper section and next to it the huge white ‘golf ball’ globe of the radar station. The Great Speikkogel(2140 m above sea level. A. ) is the highest peak of the Koralpe . The summit is located in Carinthia approximately 400 meters west of the border with Styria , around 18 km west of Germany mountain in Styria and 10 km east of Wolfsberg .Refuges for the rise are the Grillitschhütte (1710 m) and the Koralpenhaus (1966 m). In addition to a shelter available around the summit also an FM radio and television (DVB-T) of the Austrian Broadcasting Services as well as a radar installation ( gold dome ) of the Armed Forces 4.30 to 8.30pm, 4 hours Total 10 hours . It was dusk at the top, made more difficult also because of the bad visibility. My brakes weren’t totally efficient for the descent and my heart was in my mouth as I janked on them tightly for the descent. It took me 2.¾ hours to climb and 1.¼ hour for the descent. The way up from the Goding side of the climb is track only so glad that I climbed the Rieding route. On reaching the car sat there in the open area at the foot of the climb, I was so relieved to see it – just, and it was a black hire car – as it was now dark and I descended a hair-raising descent with my rims burning because of constant braking, my hands were white. I couldn’t feel my fingers. I sat in the car for a while to get warm after loading the bike into the boot then drove south on the minor road to Sankt Georgen and booked in at the hotel there, leaving the car at the small supermarket car park opposite. The hotel was 34€ and 13€ for a three course pasta meal and two beers so good value. I took a beer back to the room and wrote my journal for the day then to sleep happy and content at midnight.
29th August 2013
Drive to Maribor, Slovenia. Road A2/E66 (127 km (about 1 hour 16 mins) through Lavemund then over border at Dravograd, petrol fill up then follow the Drava river to Maribor then 5 km south from Maribor to Spodnje Hoce. 30 minutes. At first I parked at the foot of the cablecar nearer to Maribor but there is no road to the mountain from here, only tracks. Eventually I found the road at the foot and parked at Spodnje Hoce and cycled through Pivola and up through the woods via Pohorje then track to the north. It wasn’t the correct route but eventually got there.
BIG 878 Mariborsko Pohorje 1078 metres, from the south east only 16.6km. Climb begins at Spodnje Hoce on road 430 south of Maribor. Road is called Trzaska Lesta. Road 929 west of road 430, then left (north west) on road Hocke Cesta then left again on Pivola – Lipov Drevored to the left of the university, road Pivola then Hocko Pohorje, right turn further along to Cerkev Sv Bolfenk at top. 3.5 hours. From Hoce, driving along the autobahn south to exit at Tepanje for 23km then 8km to Zrece, 31km 20 miles 1 hour, parking the car at Loska Gora at a large car park opposite Spa Hotel Podrogo on the left at 2.00pm. This is the foot of the road climb for Rogla. There are kilometre markings along the way. On reaching the top at 4.20pm I came to the ski resort where plenty of people were walking in the open clearing, hanging around at the wood chalet bar at the top where I had a sausage and two beers, 7.80€ and explored the modern church on the right. There was a football match going on and music blaring away. After taking photos around the flags and points of interest I returned to the car, arriving at 5.20pm
BIG 877 Rogla, south west of Maribor 1474 metres. From the south only 18km. Climb begins just north of Zrece on road 701 Cesta Na Roglo, through Boharina to Rogla town at the top. 4 hours
Driving from Loska Gora, through Zrece, Vojnik, Celje 24km, 15 miles, 30 minutes and continued to Llubljana, further 70km, 43 miles, 1 hour. I had a look round for a while but decided against staying here this evening. Other than a few quaint streets in the centre I didn’t see much of interest so returned north to Kamnik and found a place to stay opposite the bus station for 25€. I had a make-shift room as it was really only a café but I was offered a floor mattress and covers with showering facilities and breakfast in the morning, it was sufficient. (Total 12.5 hours)
30th August 2013
From Kamnik driving north to Stahovica a short distance north along a minor road there was some confusion as I was driving too far north but soon found where the road was for the climb to Crnivec from the west. I was cycling high above the valley looking south from Crna pre Kamniku to reach Krivcevo where the climb really begins with a series of hairpins and a series of droning motorcycles coming up the road. The road rises through a clearing to the top. I had a coffee at the bar on the right and asked two girl cyclists taking photos at the top to take my photos also, they obliged. From there I freewheeled back down the hairpins and the road above the valley and back to the car at Stahovica.
BIG 879 Crnivec, (pronounced chenivetsser) north east of Ljubljana. 902 metres. From the east 10km (hardest).From west 11km, 7 miles 2 hours. East from Gornji Grad on road 225 south of the town, road Novo Naselje following north bank of Dreta river, same road to the top. West from Kregarjevo south of Stahovica, road 225 Crna Pri Kamniku following north bank of Crna river, same road 225 to the top, road now called Podlom.
From Stahovica at 11.00 I drove back through Kamnik then west to the main road at Komenda and on to Sencur where I took a road north bypassing Kranj to Visoko then headed for Jezersko following the Kokra river valley. From there it was hair-raising drive up to Seebergsattel along a series of tight hairpins to reach the border and the top of the pass that I had cycled from Bad Eisenkappel many years ago. I remember at the time calling at the café on the Austrian side, finding it open but no one there. At the time it was a run down establishment but now it was a modern thriving café. I drove down the other side and down in the valley, took the turning to the right indicated for Paulitsch Sattel, parked the car and unloaded the bike to cycle the pass from the west on the Austrian side.
BIG 881 Pavlicevo Sedlo / Paulitsch Sattel, between Klagenfurt and Ljubljana on Austrian / Slovenian border 1339 metres. From the west 5.2km (harder). From the east 6.8km, 1.5 hours
From the west just above Bad Vellach, Austria on road 82 south of the town. The way up took me two hours from 12.15 to 2.15pm then half an hour back down at 3.00pm. It’s a narrow road of white gravel up through woods to begin with. There are some steep sections as far as an ornate wooden structure well to the right then at the left there is a viewpoint that may be slightly higher than the border point a kilometre further(?), then down a little in the woods and a final up again to reach the Slovenian border. The whole climb from the west side is within Austria and the border crossing is at the top of the pass, now unmanned and derelict. The climb up from the east side is totally within Slovenia. There are really good views along the climb, especially across to the busier Seebergsattel across the deep valley. Driving back over the Seebergsattel later there are fantastic views of Jezersko mountain to the south, Jezersko village itself a fascinating place with its white buildings in the high Alpine valley. Later I drove south to Kranj and took the motorway to Bled to admire the lake. I found somewhere to park just for photos and decided not to stay here too long, only two hours, as the area was far too busy. Every man and his dog tourist were here – including Japanese! They get everywhere! However not one to be seen in the mountains. The lake is very scenic but far different from my last visit when I cycled here with Helmut Willplinger in 1980. We had cycled from Wurzenpass and explored the Triglav area on a three day circuit through Kranjska Gora, over the Vrsic to Bovec and stayed in Tolmin then Podbrdo, Bohinjsko Jezero and a second night in Bled, returning to his car at Wurzenpass the following day. I remember remarking to Helmut on his choice of hotel right on the lakeside that it would be expensive but it was far from it – so cheap! It was one of the few hotels there at the time, now the town is totally transformed and bustling with tourists. I had planned to stay here the evening but didn’t want to pay tourist prices so drove on through Kranjska Gora to the Italian border. I stopped to take some photos of the Triglav area then again at the border and continued on for Tarvisio then south from there to Cave de Predil in the hope of finding a hotel near to Passo de Predil for the following day and the climb from there. I discovered that the village is far too small for a hotel so returned to Tarvisio and after the third attempt found an albergo, Hotel Al Cacciatore for 50€ bed and breakfast. I had a spaghetti carbonera and two beers at a nearby restaurant, da Isa 13.50€ then back to the hotel. 145km, 90 miles, 3 hours. Total 9.5 hours
31st August 2013
From Tarvisio left turn south at on road 54 Predil, start at Lago di Predil. I noticed that the main road after Cave de Predil goes to Predil and not Sella Nevea. Leaving the car at a grass verge on Lago de Predil at 08.15 I cycled Passo de Predil passing the mountain fortress and other ruins and through the now abandoned frontier point to reach the foot of Mangrtsko Sedlo in 1 hour, then rested a while at the foot of Mangrtsko Sedlo before the road to Bovec.
BIG880 Mangrtsko Sedlo, north of Bovec, Slovenia. 2055 metres. From the east 18.5km (harder), From the west 25km
From the west at north shore of the lake Lago Di Predil on road SS54 in Italy, road goes east over the border then becomes road 203 Predel, Bovec, left on to road 902, Strmec Na Predelu to the top (top of pass is actually in Italy), south of Tarvisio. From the east start at Log Pod Mangartom north of Bovec. Take a right turn to the top. 4 hours
The first kilometre of the climb after the Bovec road junction is fairly easy as the road follows a stream gushing down from the mountain. On reaching a bridge over the stream the road veers to the right where the real climb begins. The Mangrt road runs to a 2100 metre height, Mangrt Saddle is the highest road in Slovenia. There are five short unlit tunnels with cobbles at the entrance and exits en route and the road is 12km long. The Italians constructed the road in 1940 in less than a tear from spring to autumn. In October 2000 an enormous landslide occurred on the slopes above the Mangrt Alp.
A section of the Mangrt Road and a bridge on the road heading from Bovec across the Predel Pass to Italy were washed away. The remains of the landslide called Stovze can be seen between the start of the road and the bridge, and more remains are close to Log pod Mangtrom. A large landslide in the valley of the Mangart stream occurred on Wednesday, 15th November 2000, at around 12:30–12:45. The landslide demolished around 150 m of the road Bovec-Predel (Italy) and reached the stream of Predelica where it stopped. Some time later another and much bigger landslide started its way in the valley of the Mangart stream. The masses which consisted of glacial morainic material, glacial lake sediments, fluvioglacial material, schists, sandstones, lacustrine carbonate silt and tuffs stopped in the bottom of the valley and were becoming more and more saturated with water from the Mangart stream and some other minor streams. The critical point of water saturation was reached in the night from Tuesday to Friday when a big mudflow began its way towards the village Log pod Mangartom. The mudflow destroyed the bridge across the Predelica stream and covered, destroyed or moved some buildings in the village. Seven people died. There is a toll booth in the woods at 2km along where motorists have to pay 5€ together with information leaflets about the road and area. It was interesting to observe the change in landscape from river to pine trees then the open barreness further on. The next few kilometres are wooded but eventually a large open clearing popular as a stop, especially for motor-cyclists, on the right. From there at 10km along is a large overhang of rock for several hundred metres on the right hand side and a warning before it; ‘caduta massi’. On the road were some rocks and loose stones from above. I knew about the landslides and hoped and prayed that this area would behave itself today. I passed along the dark shadow of the overhang and emerged at the cirque where the traffic circles in an anti-clockwise direction to the top and back down. There’s no café or any building at the top but the views are fantastic, especially looking back down the valley past the overhang. That day there were many cyclists and also motor-cyclists up there – probably are most days. I asked one, an Austrian, to take my photo and I had to reciprocate. He offered to swap bikes! He might enjoy the downhill section! I began from Lago di Predil at 08.15, reached Mangrtsko Sedlo at 11.15 and back down at 12.30
Drove on from Predil then headed south for Bovec, Kobarid then left turn on road 102 direction Tolmin then right turn after 2km from Kobarid at Idrsko for 15km to Gabrovizza, total 60 km, 38 miles, 1.5 hours. I drove up through Livek into Italy at Cepletischis and wish I hadn’t as this is a very interesting road to cycle and is also the lower part of Matajur from Idesko in the Soca Valley
BIG 724 Mataiur / Matajur, 1320 metres. East of Udine. From the south (harder) 11.7km. From the S.E. 14km, 3.5 hours.
From the south: go north from Savogna on Via Alta / Via Ieronizza From the South east: on Via Blasin, through Gabrovizza, take an acute left turn on Frazione Dus (from Via Dei Bersaglieri), through Masseris, right turn to the top at Montemaggiore
I cycle from the south east leaving the car in Cepletischis in front of the church at a small car park. Other cyclists there were also doing the same thing and cycling the Matajur. On reaching the top I took the second right turn as the direct way was closed, the reason was a beer festival taking place tomorrow and the erecting of the stands blocked the way. The final 3km of the climb is an open clearing and until then mainly up through woods with a few views. The climb took me an hour and I returned in ½ an hour at 4.15pm
Drove back to Kobarid then on to Zaga and took a left along a narrow hilly road and past the defunct frontier point into Italy where I now remain for the final part of my grand tour, no more borders to cross – until customs at Venice Marco Polo airport! I take a right fork for Uccea village soon after, for the last climb of the day at 5.30pm. There was a barrier across the road and again see ‘caduta massi’ – falling rocks. I parked up, unloaded the bike and hoped that I could cycle on.
BIG 723 Sella Carnizza 1085 metres, north of Udine. From N.W. 6.1km (harder), east of Tolmezzo on road A23 Resiutta take road SP42 Torrene Resia to Prato (foot of climb) then south away from the river to Resia Lischiazze, follow Localita Lischiazze to the top
From the East from Uccea 9.4km, 2 hours
Passing the road barrier at Uccea I cycle through the woods to the left of the river into Parco della Prealpi Giulie on a steady incline, no real steep sections. I finally emerge in an open clearing after 7km and past the road barrier in to an upper valley and shortly after the road swings right then left through a village, past a pub and a café and small houses proudly displaying Italian flags and shortly one short rise for 500 metres to the road summit of Sella Carnizza at 6.15pm. I noticed a fading BIG sticker on the summit road plate. After a few photos, reverse direction and back down to the car. There were falling rocks in places on the road but nothing serious but I had the pleasure of a quiet road without the drone of traffic. Reversing the car back down to the road junction at Uccea, drove over Passo di Tanmea to Tarcento then directly west through San Stefano, San Daniele, Dignano to join the Udine –Pordenone road and found a hotel on the outskirts of Pordenone on the left, Hotel Tuan 45€ bed and breakfast, 3 star at Zoppola 10km east of Pordenone where I enjoyed a good pasta meal and a relaxing time before sleeping. 58km, 36 miles. Total for day 12 hours
1st September 2013
There was some rain this morning as I drove through Pordenone and its confusing one-way streets to Aviano 15km, 10 miles, but 1 hour 30 minutes due to confusion in the town with the streets. It was wet on the way to Piancavallo but soon cleared when I reached the mountain. I imagined a short climb but was overwhelmed by the immensity of Piancavallo that filled the skyline, topped by radio antenna towers that I soon found out on reaching them that it wasn’t the top! There was still 3km to go before reaching the winter resort and even then it wasn’t the top! I went off to the right and after 1km reached the top in the woods before the road descent on a secondary road to Aviano.
BIG 725 Piancavallo 1300 metres South east 13.9km (harder), north 14.7km
From north direction at Barcis on SR251 Lago di Barcis, at causeway over the lake go south, left at junction over the causeway. Further along take a right turn away from the lake. There are many hairpins to the roundabout at the top.
From the south at Aviano north of Pordenone take Via Monte Cavallo to the west of the town off SP29 Marsau-Budoia road, 3 hours, total 7.25 hours
I cycled from Pedemonte to the summit on a very good surface road, white fixed surface, the masts that I thought were at the top after 15 hairpins but then there’s a dip in the road, an avalanche tunnel then 3km further on a gradual up to reach the winter resort of Piancavello at a roundabout. The weather was overcast past the masts and some rain. I continued on to the right to reach the top in the woods then back to the roundabout and had a Pauliner lager 5€ at the café Al Portico there then returned back down the same way. I cycled 2 hours 10.30 to 12.30 and stayed for an hour. Down at the foot of the pass and the car I took a video of the mountain and the sound of crickets, ah the bliss of summer sun! It was so different from the rainclouds above. Cricket season in Italy is a lot different from the cricket season in England!
From Pedemonte drove south west from Aviano 28km, 18 miles through Budoin, Cordignano to main road Pordenone-Belluno to Vittorio-Veneto, 45 minutes, then confused at Vittorio-Veneto going through the streets of the old town twice – worth a look though at the old buildings, then north past Lago di San Croco along a busy road then Pieve de Cadore where there was a torrential downpour but cleared up by the time I reached Cortina 89km, 55 miles, 1.5 hours.
Stopped for a while to take photos just south of the town and found our hotel we stayed at many years ago, Al Forno just north of the town on the road to Toblach via Col Rosa, took a left direction for Bruneck 48km, 30 miles, 1 hour. It took me from 2.00 to 6.00pm to cover the distance due to the volume of traffic heading north. I tried a hotel in the centre of the town but far too expensive at 90€. I booked a room at Hotel Bologno opposite a church in the centre, parked the car around the back then wandered around the town and took photos of the cobbled streets in the moonlight and enjoyed two doner kebabs and three beers from a doner take away, 17€ and retired at 10.30pm
2nd September 2013
Originally estimated my day as leaving Bruneck 08.30, Longega 09.00, climb to Plan de Corones and back 12.30. Drive Piccolino 1.00pm, climb Passo della Erbe 1.00 – 4.30pm , drive 3 hours 990 miles) to Madonna di Campiglio, arrive 7.30pm, but this was too ambitious. The climb to Plan de Corones took a lot longer and no way could I be in Madonna tonight.
From Bruneck I took a mountain road through San Lorenzo but it wasn’t the planned route to Longega, I was to the east of that on a very narrow forest road above the valley and finally arrived at Marebbe (Enneberg)and the road junction for the Furkel Pass from which a steep untarmaced road shoots off to the left, an abrupt rise from the Furkel Pass. I left the car at Marebbe and wish I had left in San Lorenzo because the forest road would have been so interesting to have cycled. I was a bit confused before Marebbe having emerged from the forest so no views to give me an indication of my location. He was a country local with a strange dialect and my poor German wasn’t much use, however I understood that I had 3km to go in the same direction after the village to reach the road junction. Once reached I parked the car near to the bus stop there and pulled out the bike for the ascent. It took me 2 hours, 9.00 to 11.00, to reach Furkel Pass starting off up a wide sweep of hairpins on a good road through the straggling village of Corte then an easier section to reach the old hotel now undergoing reconstruction then under a bridge, over which the ski run goes then just round the corner I entered the area of the Furkel Pass. It now took me a further 2 hours to reach Plan de Corones from the west.
BIG 709 Plan de Corones 2273 metres, East 16.1km harder, West 16.8km South of Bruneck
From the west at Longega take Strada Longega, Marebbe San Viglio, head north (left) Strada Plan de Corones. Left again at crossroads Strada Rara (right/south) go north (left)
From the east at Valdaora di Mezzo/Mitterolang Via Furcia through Casola Gassl then later take right turn at crossroads. Strada Rara goes left, south and down, 3 hours
The surface is loose gravel so without mountain bike I had to walk up most of the way. I mounted the bike where possible at the turns and at each turn, to spur me on, was a board depicting a rider of the Giro d’Italia through the years starting at the bottom of the pass with a cyclist from the previous century but one, and finishing with Marco Pantani near the top. Memories of the Mortirolo!. Leaving the woods on the way up after a while, I was in an open clearing and could see the white buildings at the top of Plan de Corones on the brow of the mountainside but to reach it was still a huge effort. I passed some farm buildings and through a herd of inquisitive brown cows then to the left I was faced with a severe 28% incline to the white buildings ahead. I couldn’t possibly ride this and struggled with the bike leaning over to push it. Coming down later was hair raising as holding brakes on such a steep descent would be risky – and I always fear the brake cables snapping! I stayed at the top for an hour or more taking plenty of photos, listening to the jolly oompah music emanating from the open terrace café and visiting the huge bell and viewpoint marker in a tower behind that. I bought a final cow bell for my home collection as this is my final alpine road climb – except for later today but the Passo della Erbe is not as majestic as this climb.
I had a beer and croquet monsieur at Restaurant Cima, 8.30€ then slowly made my way down the mountain and took a photo of each one of the Giro d’Italia cyclist boards. On reaching Furkel Pass it was an easy freewheel back down to the car at 2.30pm then continued on down into the valley to Longega, 27km, 17 miles, 45 minutes to Longega from which 15km to Passo delle Erbe
BIG 710 Passo delle Erbe (Ju de Borze or Wurzjoch) 2006 metres NW 29km, N27km, W 27km, E 15km
From Brixen take road SP29, Viale Mozart, take right on to Via Plose, Sant Andrea, Strada Provinciale, take left fork still on road SP29. 15km, 3 hours, total 7.75 hours
From Piccolino on the eastSP244 south on Strada Picolin, 1250 SP29, San Martino on Strada Tor, 21 hairpins to top. Ignore right hand turn on the way up
I cycle Passo della\ Erbe from the road junction below Rina (Welschetten)passing the small white castle on the left, bright in the warm sunshine. The climbs steadily through woods to a road summit after 6km then drops down to Antermola (Untermoi) then rises again on a series of hairpins then through woods to reach the road summit at 13km and the familiar brown summit plate with so many stickers on both sides from cyclist and biker clubs. There is also a faded BIG sticker there. It took me from 3.00pm to 5.30 to reach there and ½ an hour back to the car. I then drove back over the Passo della Erbe with fantastic views of the snowy mountain range on the way down to the south of the road, along a narrow road to reach Pitzach and a narrow gateway through which the road passes then to the main Brixen to Bozen road at Klausen. I stocked up with some beers from an off-license by a petrol station – to part later in a hotel! I passed quickly through Bozen, having been this way before in my previous years I knew the route through to reach the road for the Mendel pass. It was too late to go further than the Mendel Pass and it was dusk on the way up to the top of the pass. I found a place to stay, Hotel Roen 1265 metres on the left for of the road just over the pass, 35€ bed and breakfast, at 8.00pm. I enjoyed a big pizza of speck, egg, cheese and a jagermeister at 9.00pm after a long oak in a bath, luxury after too many showers on previous nights. To sleep at 10.30
3rd September 2013
From Mendel pass to Madonna di Campiglio through Fondo 72km, 45 miles, 2 hours. Fondo, directly west through Arsio, Cagno then to road 42 Trento-Edelo to Dimaro, south on road 239 direction Tione through Madonna di Campligio where I stopped for a while to wander the mountain resort. It’s no longer the village I remembered from 20 years ago. Back then there were only two hotels. I stayed at one and ate in the restaurant of the other. Now it is so completely transformed into a bustling tourist area. It was difficult to find somewhere to park so risked it in the car park of Hotel Rosa then explored. Nothing of any interest , I drove on along the one way system and under the main road to join it just before a long tunnel to Carisolo then turned for Val Genova. I parked at a grassy area on the left just after the church
BIG 705 Val Genova 1641 metres 17km Italy
From Comune di Carisolo on Via Armani then left fork to Chiesa San Nicola following north bank of Fiume river, Sarca di Val di Genova, past cascade, Escursione in Val di Genova con la Cascate di Nardis, Fino al Pian di Bedole, crosses stream to south bank then north bank again to reach the top.
I had saved the best to the last. Val Genova is an extremely beautiful area. The whole distance is a narrow road to Bedole. There is a road toll for traffic using the road but cyclists go free. My introduction to the attraction is the cascade to the right of the road - Cascata di Nardis 4km from the entrance to the valley. The cascade is high and wide and the chief attraction for most of the tourists along here, many walking along the road to see it.
I stopped for a while then cycled on soon reaching steep road sections to rise 400 metres to Ragada, way above the valley but following the stream, Sarca di Genova as it tumbles down from the Adamello range. There are far less tourists here however there is a regular shuttle service of small coaches that take people along the valley to the end of the road. The last section of road veers to the left into the upper valley where there’s a quaint simple hotel on the right then following the upper stream along a more level section to reach the end of the road and the coach park. From there 2km on a stony track along the continuing level section to reach woods then a few bends as the track climbs steeply to the Rifugio Bedole beyond Bedole. It took me two hours to cycle the road, I had an hour there and took a further hour to return, taking photos along the way, 12.00 to 4.30pm. I celebrated the completion of the month’s tour with a large pasta and two beers at the rifugio and relaxed in the sun.
From here I decided to try to make for Verona this evening. I drove from Carisolo south to Tione, east to Stenico then south to Riva del Garda via Ballino on an interesting mountain road then steeply down to Riva del Garda with great views over the town to the expanse of the lake. From here I joined a traffic queue along Lake Garda and parked at Malcesine to enjoy the lake views for a while. This is an interesting lakeside village with a narrow cobbled street leading down to the restaurants overhanging the water. Back to the car and drove slowly along the lake shore with camera on the dashboard for some great shots of the lake on the way to Peschiera. The sun was going down fast and wanted to take some shots of the sunset over the lake so took a right just before Peschiera to a campsite on the lake at Ronchi and took photos of the sunset over Sirmione. It was now dusk and soon dark as I drove east away from the lake heading for Verona. 142km, 89 miles. I found a hotel, Hotel Leopardi on Via Leopardi at the entrance to the city on the right, just before reaching the city wall. Later I went for a late evening stroll to the river and into the city to the amphitheatre then for a Tyrolese pizza at a café on the river walkway, 15€
4th September 2013
This morning after a good breakfast I had the morning sightseeing in Verona visiting Juliet’s balcony, the amphitheatre, have photo taken with Mark Anthony and Cleopatra costumed characters for an exorbitant fee in front of the amphitheatre, took in the best of the city sights and the river walk and returned to the hotel at midday and retrieved the car from the hotel underground car park. Today’s plan was to drive from Verona to Trieste airport 38km (25 miles) west of Trieste on the autostrada, via Padua, Venice Mestre 233 km, 145 miles @ 50 mph, 4 hours to arrive approx 15.00. Instead I took the main road to Vicenza – some confusion getting out of Verona to begin with. I was losing too much time so took to the autostrada here and drove to Monfalcone rail station to find out times of trains to Venice and work out my route to the airport and find out if there was a bus service from the airport when I deposited the car that would get me back to the rail station. The car was to be returned at 20.00 but had plenty of time. The bike was already packed away in its travel bag in the car, take train to Venice, and then go walking. The total distance Madonna di Campiglio to Trieste airport is 400 km. I drove 3km to the airport, handed back the car with no faults found – a first for me! I unloaded the bike and found the bus stop at the airport and took number 51 bus, fare 1.20€ to Monfalcone. I was dropped off below the rail station and pulled the bike in bag on trolley wheels and struggled with my green rucksack up a short rise directly to the station and bought a half price ticket to Venice, 4.50€. I had to ask for help from station staff to load my bike on to the train. I arrived in Venice Santa Lucia at 9.00pm and struggled down the station steps to the canal then asked for directions to my pre-booked hotel, Hotel Alpina 80€ with breakfast. After booking in I left the bike in a luggage room and wandered to St Marks Square and had an exorbitant priced meal near my hotel, sharing experiences with two guys from New Zealand. Enough for one day – tomorrow home!
5th September 2013
I had the morning in the hot sun around Venice, wandering the streets to St Marks Square and the Rialto Bridge from 09.00 to 1.00pm then back to the hotel to collect bike and rucksack and crammed everything into the rucksack combination so I didn’t have too much for personal luggage on the plane home. I found out early on in the day how to travel to Venice Airport. I wheeled the bike in bag from the hotel along the south side of the Grand Canal then over the new bridge at the end of the canal directly to the buses at Piazza Roma. I took bus number 5 from stand 1 that goes directly to the airport and takes 50 minutes and arrived at 2.30pm, deposited the bike and rucksack at check in then relaxed in the hot sun on the lawn in front of the airport departures in 30 degree heat, relaxed and ready for home.
Venice Marco Polo airport departure 17.25 arrive Manchester 19.00. Easyjet Flight 1864 £94.76 luggage £16 (rucksack) bike £27, total price £137.76. Baggage opens at 15.25. Flight booking reference ELM5C74. Route over Vicenza, the Alps, Zurich, Bordeaux, Paris. The temperature drop was 30 degrees in Venice to 19 degrees in Manchester. The plane arrived 25 minutes earlier than scheduled.
Train: Manchester Airport depart 20.14 platforms 3A, Wilmslow arrive 20.24, platform 2. Wilmslow depart 20.30 platform 4, Holmes Chapel arrive 20.45
Car hire £281.66 for 11 days with full excess waiver, no money owed if accident caused or received to car. Car is a Renault Clio hatchback 1.3L, petrol unleaded. Collect from Trieste airport and return to Trieste Airport by 20.00 on 4th September.
Other BIG’s for next year:
BIG 889 Sveti Jure 1762 metres Climb direction from the south only. 28.8km. From Podgora south of Makarska on the only road inland, steep up on hairpins from Uri Radera Baskovica road 512, veer right part way up then left off the road 512,then right, left, left, left, right (!) – Top at red/white mast
BIG 894 Metaljka, south east of Sarajevo. 1532 metres. From NW 34km (hardest) From SE 40km NW: From Garazde, south of the town on right bank of the river through Bare (start of climb), Zupcici, Podkozara Donja, Miljeno, Luke, Ciynice, Brezovice, to top. From SE: From Pljevlja and north west of the town on road Save Kovacevica, right fork to Rosdje, Boljanici, Karovica, Poljana to top.
BIG 895 Cemerno (Yemepho), south of Sarajevo 1293 metres. From N: 9.5km (harder) S: 13.5km.
N: From Foca on road M20 on right bank of river heading south, keep following the river then away to Beleni, Prijedel, Popov Most, Tjentiste, to Cemerno. S: from Gacko. On road M-6-1 just to south east of the town, take left turn up, joins road M20 coming down from the south, continue to Lake Klinje, through Vrba still on road M20 to the top.
BIG 898 Kapaonik, near Kosovo border 2077metres. From SW: 30km (hardest),NE 22.5km,NW 52 km From the SW, from Raska follow road south east out of the town along the north bank of the river, road number 22-3, through Karadak to the police checkpoint before hairpins then a left turn, 16 hairpins. Take a right turn further up to the top. From the NW, from Biljanovac, south of the town on road 22 take a left turn on to road 119 through Josanicka Banja, a right turn here. Later take a left turn near to the top. From the NE from Brus, take road 218 west from the town, through Grasevci, Paljevstica, Brzece and a right turn off road number 218 to the top.
BIG 899 Vincina Voda, west in Serbia 1088 metres. From the N 21.5 km (harder), From the S 16.8 km
From the North: From south west of Valjevo on road 111 through Pasna Ravan to the top. From the South: From Rogacica on road 111 to the top.
BIG 900 Cakor, Monenegro 1849 metres From the East 63km (harder) From the NW 25 km.
From the NW from Andrijevica heading south east, Dom Zdravlja hospital, road veers left, follows south bank of river past Luke that is on the other bank, then through Luge. At Murina take bridge over River Lim, follow north bank through Krivac, away from river to Gornja Rzanica, over crossroads, fountain, Velika, Cikuse, 2 hairpins to the top. From the east from Peje (Pec) in Kosovo on road called General Wesley Clark then M9 Rruga e Kishes, follow M9 and north bank of the river, Drelje, Cakor border crossing from Kosovo to Montenegro, 10 hairpins to the top
BIG 901 Orjen, south of Dubrovnik 1575 metres. From the SW 37km (harder), From the SE 31 km. From the SW start from Hercag Novi on the coast at road Brace Grakalec below Savina Monastery. Continue on over crossroads over the road numbers E65/E80/2 and over to road Hercag Novi-Trebinje through Kameno. Later take a right fork off this road and right again further up, 6 hairpins then take a right at a ‘T’ junction just north of Vrbanje. The road now goes east and up a series of hairpins to the top. The entire road is asphalt surface. From the SE side from Risan on north part of Bokor Kotorska Lake just south of the lake inlet go away from the lake along the north side of town then directly north (turn left) ‘T’ junction, left, then a series of 4 hairpins through Metkova Voda, over the main road, Zvecara, Reovac, to the top.
BIG 902 Durmitor Sedlo, Montenegro 1907 metres. From the NW 32km (hardest), SE 45km, E 37km.
From the NW: From Pluzine on the north east side of the town take road M18/E762 on the south shore of Lake Pivsko Jezero, cross the causeway now heading north. At the crossroads go straight over then road bends right (east) to Suvodo. Take a right after this to Durmitor National Park and take a right later (road goes over the pass to Zabljak From E: road from Kosanika, starting at Most Na Dundevica Tari, just south of, take right turn for Rasova, Vrela, Tepacko Polje, Zabljak, right fork to Matika Gaj, Virak, Poscenski Kraj then right turn to the top S.E: From Gradac, Savnik (start of climb). Take a right up hairpins just north of the village. After 8th hairpin and the longest stretch take a left, Previs, left again further up after one hairpin, through Mljeticak, Slatina (next right fork) passing Donja Bukovica, Gorja Bukovica, Bansk, Stanovi on the left, Lake Vrazje Jezero on the right. Left at Poscenski Kraj to the top.
BIG 903 Njegosev Mausolej 1657 metres, 33.6 km from the north west only, from Kotor. From Kotor Southern Town Gate on road E65 coast road at the end of the lake. Take a right at the roundabout on to road E80/E65 away from the lake to just before Tunnel Vrmac and take a left here up to Trojica, past Fort Gorazda (short detour and back to the mountain road again further up) then a series of 16 close hairpins, Zanjev, then turn right on to a minor road at the next crossroads. Take
BIG 904 Crkvine 1068 metres. SW 58km (hardest). NE 59 km
SW from Podgorica, head NE out of town on road E80/M2/E65 at Ibricevina on Bulevar Vilija Branta through Zlatica, Mrke, Duga, Djurdjevina away from the River on an acute right turn on the same road number to the top. NE From Bijelo Polje on road Bjelasicka E763/21 on the west (right) bank of the river. Take a right at Ribarevine on road 2/E65/E80 through Vlasko Polje along north bank of river through Bajista then left again still following the river, Lefenac, Stevanovac, Mojkovac, Podbisce then a route called Top Biking Trail, Babljak, Kolasin, Crkvine to top still on the same road number.
BIG 905 Popova Sapke , NW Macedonia 1717 metres. From the east only, 18.5 km.
From Tetovo town, north west of the town just north of a Muslim cemetery take road Kiro Ristosk then through Drnc, 4 hairpins to Gajne, further 5 hairpins to the top on the same road name.
BIG 906 Bukovo, SW part of Macedonia 107 metres. From the SW 24km (harder), from the SE 16km.
From the SW from Ohrid on Lake Ohrid, head away from the lake on road 7 M1 Noemvri e65, past the city cemetery on the right, Leskdec, Kosel, Openica, to the top. From the SE from Resen on road M5/E65 directly north through Jankovec, Izbishta, Gorno Krushje to the top
BIG 907 Babuna Pass 1088 metres. From the NE 14.6 km (harder), from the SW 16.4 km.
From the NE from Veles at a point just south of M1/E75 road. In Veles head south west out of the town on road called Blagoj Gjorev past a military base, Alekso Demniveski-Baumen, road M5 through Dolno, Orizari, Izvor, later a series of hairpins to the top. From the SW at Prilip take road 513 out of the town past Sharena Ceshma Podkasarni M5 past a military storage structure and Prilip Dam, Prisad and St George to the top.
BIG 943 Rozafa, Albania 90 metres. From the north only, 0.7 km
From Pazari Vjeter off road SH1/E762 from Xhatiaj in the north to Bahcallek in the south over the causeway. Take a left in Pazari Vjeter along road Rruga to Maji / Rruga Qafes to a castle ruin at the top ‘Kalaja Rozafa’
BIG 944 Qafa e Llogorase 1050 metres. From the south only 15 km.The road begins on the coast, up through Dhermi. One kilometre to the west of the town to Gjileke on road SH8, Palase, 5 hairpins to the top. This is the coastal road to Dukat, Orikum and Vlore