Saturday 24th May 2003 Cycled 100 miles in 12.25 hours, 08.15 – 20.30
I arrived in Inverness with bike at 08.00 having spent the whole night awake with a kilted Scotsman who drank too much and he didn’t want to be anti social so stayed awake most of the time and suffered a hangover in the morning. The fresh air in the breeze along the Great Glen soon sorted out the mugginess and he was as right as ninepins and fit for the trip by the time he reached Drumnadrochit. A lone piper was at the bend of the road before heading in to Drumnadrochit. Took a picture then dived off on a side road away from the loch towards Glen Affric and reached the BIG to mark as another conquest from the list. However, this was so easy going, there was hardly any up hill as the road merely follows Glen Urquhart and on to Glen Affric. Only towards the end of the glen is there any uphill. There is no way through by road if heading to the west but there is a rough track that it seems possible to carry a bike along and down to the heads of Loch Claunie a few miles east of the Claunie Inn. Stopped for a short while to take in the view at Castle Urquhart with its continuous ploughing back and forth of small boats hopeful in finding ‘Nessie’ as this is his favourite swimming area. Most of the sightings have been around this area. Had lunch at Invermoriston (lentil soup followed by scampi and chips £10) then left the easy road along Loch Ness to strike inland on the Kyle road up Glen Moriston. It was a very nice forest ride as far as the junction with the Invergarry road then uphill to the dam at the head of Loch Claunie. This is a big loch and it seemed ages before reached the Claunie Inn to fill my bottles and freshen up. From here it was a short rise up hill through the woods with great views on either side up Glen Shiel to reach the Five Sisters of Kintail then a long sweep down to Shiel Bridge where there is a shop on the right just before the Mam Ratagan turn off. Bought some chocolate and bottled water and turned off for my second BIG. I could see the hill before me with the road twisting across the side and reaching the top in a short but very steep ascent. The sign indicates 15% so that’s more than most in the Alps! The way up though is very short, only a mile and a half and it was a real challenge. I had the opportunity to try out my new chain on this climb and it was no problem at all. I took a few photos at the top, and one from the viewpoint with its indications then rounded the last bend to the right and down the other side for Skye. It is steep at first but for 8 miles there is a glorious long steady descent all the way to Glenelg on a passing place single-track road. The road divides near the loch at Glenelg Bay. The ferry is to the right while Gleelg village is to the left. I rode along the road by the shore and soon reached the ferry. I had a long wait but it eventually came across. It was now 19.00 and I really wanted to be in Kyleakin by 20.00 so hope the going on the other side is not too tough. The ferry fits 4 cars and a few bikes but no more so if this gets busy in the warm months there are bond to be long queues. On up the very steep road for two miles then a long descent, similar to the Ratagan – Glenelg route, that finishes abruptly at civilisation at a large green road sign pointing to Kyle one way and Portree the other. It was an easy ride then along the main road for 4 miles to Kyleakin. I noticed the steep span of the Kyle – Kylakin Bridge for the first time. Last time I was here in 1974 there was no bridge, just the ferry across. My hotel, the White Heather, is close to the old jetty. The only activity now is for a bus turn around point from Kyle of Localsh. I arrived in Kylakin at 20.30. It had taken me 12 hors to do the 100 miles at approx 8mph. It had rained a little but mainly dry all day. Experienced heavy rain at Drumnadrochit, along Glen Affric and on Loch Claunie.
Saturday 31st May 2003
Homeward bound (Cycled 46 miles in 4 hours, 06.45 – 10.45)
Yesterday I booked my bike on the 12.35 train from Oban to Glasgow. The only thing to do now was get to Oban. I slept in the lounge on the sofa bed so that I wouldn’t disturb Ruth and Mark when I got up at 06.00. I left the apartment at 06.45 and was in Oban exactly 4 hours later. If I had done the Pass of the Cattle I would have gone for this train the following day, staying a night as arranged in Corpach Hotel for £22. The weather put me off but it really was a good day today. The weather forecast was wrong, what a surprise! The ride from Fort William for the first 21 miles was achieved in 90 minutes – that’s 14mph but I slowed a bit after that as I wanted to have a look at Castle Stalker, my first stop and also Balcardine Castle again and took photos of these. These were my only stops. In Oban I had nearly 2 hours to spare for the train so I took a look at Ganavan Beach again, we were here on Tuesday. I also biked up to McCabes folly. There is a green park with seats inside the round wall and great views looking across to Mull from a platform just in front of the folly. I had soup and a roll in a café but it was so thin I didn’t bother with a main course. Instead I would buy some sandwiches from the trolley on the Oban / Glasgow train. I was anxious at Oban station when I found out that a group had booked all 6 spaces for bikes on the train – those downhill racers again. Why don’t they just bike downhill all the way to Glasgow…? I argued that I had already booked but the reply was, “But there are 6 of them”. I prayed hard and they didn’t show up. The guard took one last look down the platform then let me and my bike on. He said that if they turn up at a station down the line you might have to get off with your bike! (On yer bike mate!)
I was glad when this particular guard didn’t board the train. Instead another one got on at the last minute. All the way to Glasgow mine was the only bike on the train - so much for officialdom! The train ride to Glasgow was interesting, arriving in Queen Street at 15.45. I have not been on this route before. I had ½ an hour to change trains in Glasgow from Queen Street to Central and found the way easily enough. I had a quick look at George Square, the city’s main square, on the way. I caught a train from Central at 16.50 and arrived in Crewe at 20.10 too late for a train to Holmes Chapel missed by 6 minutes, typical! The next one was at 21.15 so wasn’t waiting for that. I biked home via Warmingham and was home at 21.00