Cyprus, June 2016
Tuesday 7th June 2016 Liverpool to Larnaca
Liverpool to Larnaca. Easyjet Flight EZY7155, departing 13.45, arriving 20.30 £93.74. The flight arrived on time but had a problem finding my bike and bag. They weren’t on the carousel. Eventually found them at the other end of the arrival hall. I grabbed a trolley and wheeled them outside the airport and assembled the bike. There was a loop in the chain and asked an army chap standing nearby to untangle it. He did and shook my hand. I strapped the large bike flight bag to my bike rack and cycled slowly on the pavement in the dark for 7km to the south edge of Larnaca, the bike bag protruding either side of the bike so had to be careful passing side bushes and indication posts. I asked twice along the way for directions to my hotel but there was really no problem. I arrived at the hotel at 23.00 and had a good night’s sleep but it very warm during the night. I eyed the hotel outdoor swimming pool and must try this when I return here at the end of my trip. I watched Ireland thrash Scotland at the Euro football on TV before sleep. I had the bike in the apartment overnight just as well so I didn’t have to lock it.
Overnight at Sea North Lake View Hotel Apartments, Nietzsche Street, Larnaca. £25. (€32.81) Breakfast extra €7
Wednesday 8th June 2016 Larnaca to Palaichori
Larnaca 09.00 to Palaichori via Kiti, Mazotos, Kofinou 31km (20 miles) 2 hours, 11.00am then 18km (11 miles) to Stavrovouni 646 metres, BIG 950 and return, 3 hours, 14.00. Kornos, Lefkara, Minas, Ora 39km (25 miles) 2.5 hours. 16.30. Ora to Makheras 38km (24 miles) 3 hours, Makheras 1399 metres, BIG 949. 19.30. Makheras to Palaichori 20km (13 miles) 1.5 hours. 21.00. 93 miles. Overnight at Danai Village House, Makariou III. £38. (€49.50). Breakfast extra.
I started off from Larnaca earlier than planned at 07.30. I’d slept enough and wanted to get an early start as today would be my longest trip. I passed the airport on the same road as last night – so different in the daytime and also the weather was warm already. I passed along easy level roads through Kiti towards Kofinou, there at 09.30. I took a sneak look at the camel park on the way before opening time. The road rises a little before Kofinou and once there took a right turn at the end of the road now on the main road Limassol to Nicosia. There are plenty of places to buy food and drink along here but I was well stocked up. North of the large village the road north was indicated off to the right as the way ahead is a ‘no entry’. I was now on the preferred ‘B’ road that rises steadily then later a bit steeper to reach a stone quarry to the right. I could see now why the BIG climb starts at Kofinou. At the quarry Stavrovouni is indicated to the right on a brown sign. There’s plenty of dust around here where lorries were coming in and out of the quarry but after some metres it was a quiet green lined road towards my final remaining Greek Cypriot BIG in Cyprus but then I wanted to revisit some others and cycled them by the correct BIG routes as in previous years I had only cycled the Troodos ridge taking in the BIG’s. There are road twists through the tree cover for the final few kilometres to the top. Finally I passed by the outer wall to the monastery and into the enclosure at the top. The place is railed off from a steep drop on the east side. A guard at the gate would let me in to the monastery grounds but this was higher up and would take a while to walk and sightsee and I needed to travel on west to the Troodos. There’s a lady chapel below the monastery in the enclosure and he was letting a couple in there. I took the usual photos and phoned Ruth then descended back to the quarry then off to the right then left under the main Nicosia road just north of the Stavrovouni road and continued on through Delikpolis to Lefkara. The road here is open country and a gradual rise through bush land scenery. Nearing Lefkara the road is steep.
I needed to drink badly so bought a ½ litre of milk – followed by an ice cold coke (both 1€) and looked around the town for bananas but none to be had. Later trying to find my way out of the town I was amazed at the steepness of the streets. They are also very narrow, hardly any space for traffic. Eventually I found the road for Ora then climbed the steep road to Vavatsinia. On entering the village it’s an acute turn to the right and a sharp rise – followed by a sharp pain – cramp! It went off for a while but nearing the top of the road at Makheras just before the right turn to the monastery it came on really bad – the worst I’ve ever suffered – and soon my right as well as my left groin were in pain. I walked the rest of the way to the top as I found it too painful to lift my right leg over the frame. I’d drunk plenty of water but I really needed those bananas and I was affected by the heat – 32 degrees. On the way down I managed to get on the bike but kept my feet off the pedals, keeping them straight and freewheeled and braked my way slowly back down to Vavatsinia. I asked if it was possible to hire a taxi from the only activity in the village – a bar close to the turn for the mountain. It wasn’t a taxi but a local restaurateur who just so happened to be closed for the day – ruhe tag. He and his wife drove me back over Macharias and through Gourri, Farmakas and Apliki to Palaichori (pronounced Palayhori). My cramp was still playing me up in both legs. I couldn’t possibly cycle. Once in the village he asked around for me and eventually found the hotel on the road out towards Askas just above the centre of Palaichori. His taxi trip cost me a whopping 50€ but no choice. I booked in at the digs – another apartment. The owner drove me down to the town where I visited the hole in the wall and withdrew 250€ and bought fruit, orange juice and biscuits but couldn’t find bananas. I had some trouble trying to find my way back to the apartment and had to ask the way, it was further up the hill than I thought. Later I walked back down again and had a pizza and beer at an outside café (12€) then trudged back up the hill and to crash out at 22.30, hoping my cycling legs will recover for morning.
Thursday 9th June 2016 Palaichori to Pedoulas
Palaichori 09.00 to Pedoulas. Palaichori, Mylos, Pelendri 30km (19 miles) 12.00. From Trimiklini south of Troodos mountains via Pano Piatras, Troodos, Pano Amiantos, 20km (13 miles) to BIG 948 Adelphi 1577 metres. 14.00. Return to Trimiklini 12km (8 miles) 1 hour. 15.00 then 36km (23 miles) via Mandria, Trooditissa, Prodromos, 3.5 hours to Olympus BIG 947 at 1951 metres 18.30. Olympus to Pedoulos 10km (6 miles) 1 hour. 19.30. 69 miles. Overnight accommodation at Christy’s Palace Hotel, 45 Philoxenias, Pedoulas £19 (€25.20) no breakfast
Rain and thunderstorms were forecast for today but I saw none of it. The weather was glorious all day. I left the key to the room on a gas cylinder outside the room as requested. They’re very trusting around here! There was no-one else at the apartments. I couldn’t pay so presumably this would be taken from my credit card that I provided to booking.com. I cycled uphill away from the town and towards Askas and decided to take a direct route to Adelphi because of possible reoccurrence of cramp. I cycled carefully trying not to put great pressure on the pedalling. As it was I survived the whole day without further problems. The climb starts from the south at Trimiklini but I cycled the ridge through Askas then Alona (situated in a deep valley). I had a Greek coffee there – 1€. At Kyperounta I finally found a store selling bananas so stocked up – 6 for 1.40€. Soon after I found the turn off to the right for Adelphi. It’s only 4km to the tower at the top and left my bags hidden behind bushes part way up. Returning back the same way and into Chandra where I took a left at the crossroads in the dip then down further to Saittas then up a fairly steep road through Pano Platras to Troodos. I needed a rest at the road junction here then 3km further for the left turn for Mount Olympus and a final 2km. the last section was easy at first but steeper after a right turn bend. Conscious of possible cramp I walked with the bike to the café. Following that the final kilometre section through the woods to the top was not difficult so rode to the top. There’s a British military base there – no photography allowed – but I did.
Signs around said ‘no photography’ but a Brit who followed me up told me to take no notice, “I’m a soldier from Akroytiri Camp, it’s just so long as you don’t take photos over the perimeter wire”. Shortly afterwards I had a pasta and beer (11€) from the café 1km down. I needed to put on more clothing – yellow jacket and gloves, as I knew the long descent to Pedoulas would be cool. At Prodromos the way down was the 4th turn on the roundabout. In the town I asked for directions from the quieter country lane I had come down rather than the main road. I was to take the left fork then a right in the town and would see my hotel on the left. I paid my dues when I arrived and wheeled my bike into their garage lock up for the night. I phoned Ruth at 19.15. She told me that the TV aerial had been repaired at home and we now had a brilliant reception. Later I walked down the road a short way to another hotel on the left and enjoyed a mousakka and a bottle of water (9 + 2€) next to a chatty couple from Rutland. Back to the hotel and retired at 22.00
Friday 10th June 2016 Pedoulas to Kyrenia/Girne
Pedoulas to Kyrenia / Girne via Nicosia Ledra Palace crossing point. Pedoulas 09.00 to Nicosia via Kakopetria, Peristerona 70km (45 miles) 5 hours. 14.00. Two hours through Nicosia 16.00. 23km (15 miles) 2 hours to Kyrenia 60 miles. 18.00. Accommodation at The Olive Tree Hotel, İsmet İnönü Caddesi No 89/A Catalköy Girne, Girne, 8099 Breakfast included
I was away early at 07.30, no breakfast needed as I’ll find something later. It was a long downhill from Pedoulas heading north away from the Troodos in glorious sunshine. My route was directly north from Pedoulas then east through Katydate and following the border through Astromeritis to approach Nicosia from the west. Off the mountains it was easy going along a ‘B’ road until the approach into Nicosia. The ‘B’ road merged into a motorway. I could have turned back but risked it along here until a point 2km from the centre where the motorway ends abruptly at the city streets, a weird arrangement of roads. The whole way I wasn’t warned by motorists so presumably it was OK for me to cycle along the hard shoulder to reach the city, besides there was no other direct road. Once in Nicosia I stayed on the cycle-paths to avoid the heavy traffic and made for the old circular wall. I entered through the westerly gate and soon found the shopping area and Ledra Street covered with green cloth overhanging the length of the street. Just before the checkpoint I stopped for an ice cold coffee frappe (2€). I crossed the border walking the bike and somebody joked, “You can’t take that through, you’ve got to leave it here!” At the other side I relaxed at the monument and ate a couple of bananas and ice cold can of cider (2€) then took the road out for Kyrenia. The way was level at first and a very busy road. After 8km the road rises to pass over the Turkish mountains and I took a left just over the rise to cycle toward Hilarion Castle. I left my bags behind some bushes part way up and reached the Turkish military gate halfway up and was approached by the guard who asked for my passport then ordered me to turn around and go back. Cars were allowed he said but cyclists, no. I complained that this was security madness. Anybody intent in causing damage could hide weapons in a car but except for my personal stuff, camera and helmet I had nothing. I even stopped a short distance down to take a photo but there came a shout from behind –“Go!” It was fortunate that Ruth and I went to Hilarion Castle last year on our tour but it would have been interesting to reach the castle by bike. Back to the main road and I had to keep well in to the side as the traffic was mad descending into Girne. I stopped at a small car park on the left to take photos of the flags and huge figure on the hillside. From there down into Kyrenia / Girne at a roundabout then off to the right and along the main road to find my hotel. First though I found our hotel where we stayed last year, Hotel Oscar and Casino so took a look around memory lane. Along to the roundabout with the Peace statue to the centre where I asked the way to Catalkoy. This was 7km further to the east then an uphill to the hotel through the village. This is a really beautiful place and glad I was stopping two nights. There’s an outdoor pool that I’ll definitely visit tomorrow and my chalet type apartment was right by it. I wheeled the bike through the grounds and took it inside. After a shower and change I was out again and down the hill to Sheraz Indian restaurant where I enjoyed a sumptuous meal (22€ - £17). Later back to the hotel in the dark balancing half a bottle of wine on my handlebars 4km back to the hotel at 22.00
Saturday 11th June 2016 Kyrenia to Kantara and return
Kyrenia to Vounari / Davlos 41km (26 miles) 3 hours. 09.00 – 14.00. From Kyrenia indicated as Esentepe, Taitsu and Technik Elektrik Sentrali. Kaplica Palmiye on road to Kantara Kalesi, BIG 1000 10km 585 metres. 15.00 and return and mountain ridge 55km (35 miles) 3.5 hours, Kyrenia 10km (6 miles) to BIG 998 Bellapais Monastery 217 metres and return 2 hours 17.00 return to hotel, 18.30 accommodation at The Olive Tree Hotel, İsmet İnönü Caddesi No 89/ A Catalköy Girne, Girne, 8099. Breakfast included
Setting off downhill at 08.00 after a really good buffet breakfast I came to a road junction where the road along the coast is to the left indicated as Esentepe, Taitsu and Technik Elektrik Sentrali. To the right the road ascends to Buffavento. I had slight confusion here as I wasn’t certain this was the coast road at first. What confused me was that the indication off to the left was to an electric power station and the right of way was uphill. I wasn’t sure if this would peter out into the power station, also most of the traffic was heading uphill. It was a hot, sweaty ride for 50km in extreme heat – 34 degrees. The road hugs the coast most of the way, a good road with many down sections and a slight wind to push me along. I bought water and bananas – really needed. At a supermarket in the middle of nowhere along the coast I bought milk, more bananas and a Calypso ice stick all devoured quick. Hotels are sparsely situated along the coast and most of them are the huge golfing or spa complex variety. The coast is also scattered with holiday villages between the few natural villages. From a distance I could see Kantara Castle perched on the mountain inland and I turned off to head for it at Kaplica. The road starts to climb immediately. I bought more water and a Snickers bar (3TL - £0.75) then continued on up. Just after leaving the village there’s steep section but it becomes less steep most of the way to the top. On reaching Kantara village I asked at the café if I could hire a taxi back to Kyrenia as I would like to ride to Bellapais Monastery later and enjoy the swimming pool at the hotel. I reached an agreement at the café then continued on to Kantara Castle, a further 5km in great scenery looking south. At first it was downhill then after a dip uphill most of the way to the castle at 14.30. At the end of the road the castle wall towers over the area. There’s a fee to pay at the manned cabin but I didn’t have the time to go and explore. There was enough to see from the vantage point at the end of the road. Back at the café I waited for my unofficial taxi driver to finish his shift at the café then we left at 15.30. He was a very chatty Turk from Mersin on the south Turkish coast who lives in Cyprus most of the time as most of his relatives are on the island but he prefers to live back on the mainland. We talked about Turkey joining the EC and he was definitely against Turkey joining. He says that Turkish feeling is 80% against joining, only 20% wanting to join. I told him about the current feeling many Brits have at home and a strong opinion of wanting to leave the EC in the UK. At 17.00 he dropped me off at the foot of the Bellapais road and I cycled to the top in 45 minutes, reaching the highest point behind the monastery. I bought a celebration beer and sat by the monastery for a while in the sunshine. From there back down to the coast and to the harbour where I bought a meal at the waterfront. I took my time taking in the scene around the harbour. My bike was perched nearby so I could keep an eye on it. To eat I had breaded mushroom starter, meat on sticks, pitta bread, salad, chips and rice with a large beer (I’m not driving!) followed by cheesecake and a brandy Total 49 + 8 = 10 = 67TL (£16.50). From there back to the hotel in the dark but rode on the cycle-path all the way, 7km. Back to the hotel at 22.00
Sunday 12th June 2016 Kyrenia / Girne to Famagusta / Gazamagusta
Kyrenia, Catalkoy, Arapkoy, Besparmak Pass/Plataniotissa BIG 999, 502 metres, to Kythrea, Lefkoniko, Salamis to Famagusta 60km (37 miles) with an hour stop at Salamis. 5 hours. 09.00 – 14.00. Accommodation at Betul Guest House, Kuru Cesme Sokak 12, Surlar Ici, Famagusta.
I wasn’t cycling too far today so I enjoyed time around the hotel. I had a swim in the outdoor pool and lounged around for a while and left the hotel at 10.00. Back down the hill and along to the road junction however this time I took a right turn keeping to the main road and reached the Besparmak Pass two hours later, 12.00 noon. This ascent is fairly steep, there’s no breather just steepness all the way. A kilometre from the top I found it particularly steep so to avoid the possibility of cramp in the heat I walked to the Buffavento signboard marking the top by the café. I stopped three times on the way up. Once there I had a long super cool fresh orange juice. It was already very warm and I plastered myself with cream. The café was run by Pakistanis singing “One day at a time, sweet Jesus!” my sentiments exactly – one climb at a time and now they were all complete! All seven now climbed in Cyprus. Together with those in the east already done; the new additions, I’ve now reached 895 BIG’s. I freewheeled down the other side of the mountain – an almost straight road down most of the way with the first turn off to the left for Kythrea / Degirmenlik. Here I was passing through sandy country and a scattered high village to reach the plain at Epikho then to Angastina for the direct road for Famagusta. It was a long drag along this level road band seemed a long way to Styllos for the turning off for St Barnabas Church and Salamis. I had a wide tarmac cycle lane to the left most of the way so was segregated from the traffic. Turning off the main road for St Barnabas Church I was relieved to be away from the constant traffic roar. I bought two cans of fruit juice and a Twix bar (3TL, £0.75) then a look round the church and museum, 3€ reliving last year’s visit with Ruth. From there along the flat roads to Salamis archaeological site and rode the paths around the site, seeing new ruins further out from the main section that we didn’t see last year. I left there at 17.00 and arrived at my hotel, easy to find within the city walls, at 18.00. I walked the streets and found a good place for a meal inside the walled city, south east part, then back to the hotel and bed at 23.00.
Monday 13th June 2016 Famagusta to Larnaca
Famagusta to Larnaca 88km (55 miles) or from Protaras to Larnaca 54km (34 miles) Overnight at Sea North Lake View Hotel Apartments, Nietzsche Street, Larnaca. £25. (€32.81) Breakfast extra €7
Today was only meant to be a short cycle ride to Larnaca but the temperature was so hot, it was slow progress. I went discovering around Famagusta in the morning and explored the edge of the demilitarised zone to the south of the walled city. The best viewpoint for this was at the most southerly part of the beach. From here at noon I cycled to the checkpoint and took some photos in the British Sector but was asked to delete them! After passing over into Greek Cyprus again I took the first left for Frenaros and Deryneia, a busy town with plenty of large department stores. From here I took a look back to the demilitarised zone before Famagusta