Friday 11th June 1993 Holmes Chapel to Ostend
There was a bomb scare at Euston Station. All passengers around the station area were sent out through the post office vans exit. Here lorries, hemmed us in one after the other, bumping up the ramps. It didn’t help when there was no light at the end of the tunnel, only a big dark mass of sky – it was pelting down! I togged up in rainwear but still only in sandals. I went straight on down Eversholt Street, into Gower Street, past Bloomsbury Baptist, Cambridge Circus, Shaftsbury Av, Haymarket, Piccadilly. At Pall Mall, flaming torches from the wedding cake building it was the International Directors Meeting and the ladies and gents were dressed up to the nines. Down the steps to the Mall, through St James’ Park, Buckingham Palace Road to Victoria Station. There was a train to Dover in 25 minutes and I had taken 30 minutes to cross the city. I was on the 20.41 train to Dover Priory via Faversham. I labelled the bike for the train just so that the guard knew where it was getting off. The rain stopped about 5 miles out of the city and when I arrived in Dover at 23.00 it was dry. I biked through the town to the Eastern Docks. I phoned Ruth up when I arrived, 50p. Bought a Mars and a pint of milk, 65p. Had a hot chocolate from the berth café, 70p. A small problem with my ticket, the P&O check it didn’t recognise my BR ticket but I got on eventually. The boat left on time and I found the quietest spot on the boat on a reclining chair and slept all the way to Ostend.
Saturday 12th June 1993 Ostend to Basel
There was a bit of drizzle in Ostend. Shaved, washed and biked out of the boat. There was a problem with the train, the first one out of Ostend was at 07.34 to Brussels. From Brussels at 08.34 and checked at the information desk there for the next train to Basel. The next one was at 19.00 from here tonight that would allow my bike. So I took the 09.22 to Luxembourg, arriving at 12.11. I had a look around the town and sat eating schnitzel, crackers and milk on a seat above the valley. Later went back to the station for the 14.59 train to Basel, arriving at 18.15. I booked the bike for the only possible train; the 21.45 to Basel arriving at 01.30. I arrived in Basel, bike less but on time and walked along to the hostel, straight out from the station then along a tree lined walk way in the middle of a dual carriageway that led down to the river. The bed and breakfast cost 21 Swiss Francs. I met an English guy from Wigan on his way to Zagreb. I could understand the Swiss better than his broad accent. I took the cagoule, as there was rain in the air then out round town for a short time. I bought a wurst, salad and a beer at a pub behind the Rathaus. The rain got a bit heavier and I lost my way at one of the large town gates. I heard pipers. The music was coming from a large tent on the Munsterplatz. It was a bit loud, had a quick look then started to find my way back to the hostel. It wasn’t difficult as all I had to do was find my way down to the river and follow it along to the hostel. The English guy was telling me a few tales about bikes and motorbikes. Bed at 23.30.
Sunday 13th June 1993 Basel to Solothurn
Some time during the night the bed next to me was occupied and I had his pillow. Made sure I got up before he did! I obtained a supply of free maps (12) from the hostel before leaving and was out at 08.00. I struggled with the bags back to the station. I had a filling breakfast but didn’t eat the yoghurt or orange juice – will have those later. My bike had arrived during the night and was waiting for me at the bike compound in the station. I was relieved to find it there among all the other hundreds in the store up the wooden ramp and showing my bike ticket to the attendant who allowed me through to get it. I changed on the station into shorts and cycle vest and slung the panniers on. I left Basel at 08.50 to the west of the station then noticed way marked cycle routes marked with small red signposts at Oberwil, just south of the city. I followed one on a quiet way to Ettingen where somehow I lost the route. I asked the way at a gently rising wooded area. The girl was surprised that I would cycle to Laufen and would wish to cycle via the Dittingen Pass, however this was just the warm up!
The route up to Dittingen (Pass 1) is well wooded, trees interspersed with wide open clearings, beautiful scenery giving wide views of the area around Basel that lay down there in the distance. I overtook a motorbike going down to Laufen. In Laufen it started raining but didn’t last long. Up a bit from here to Breitenbach for the start of a more serious pass, the Passwang (Pass 2), over the top and a left turn at the top to discover the top of another pass only 100 yards away. Doubled back into the woods and down the other side of the Passwang into a well-wooded gorge where it rained a bit going down to Ramiswil. A sharp right turn here for the ride back up again, to the Scheltenpass (Pass 3). The Guildental is also well wooded on the way up here. The narrow gorge was worth seeing. It’s a bit like Saxon Switzerland. On the way I saw an eagle and a brown owl that was watching me carefully. The road is narrow almost all the way to Mervelier where the German names disappear and French Switzerland is entered. Through Corban (is there where the group gets it’s name from? I met one of them in Grindlewald some years ago, skiing at Christmas on the Mannlichen). I turned left for the dark, looming hills ahead. I was surprised that there was no road incline as I was very close to the cliff ahead. Then I found out why – it was a gorge through a narrow gap in the rocks that became a gentle uphill from Vermes onwards. It rained most of the way along here. After Seehof and round the corner it was downhill then to Cremines, a gentle up along the busy main road to Gansbrunnen. It was the first time on a main road today and was glad I wasn’t going far along here. The road follows the railway that terminates in Gansbrunnen, at the foot of the Weissenstein. I had a short break at a seat in the village then began the hard slog through very quiet woods and endless hairpins to the road summit (Pass 4). The rain stayed off until I reached the top and didn’t start again until the descent – praying hard! It was along sweep downhill in the pelting rain to Solothurn with thick socks over my hands. I didn’t think to bring gloves, believing the weather would be warmer. I had difficulty finding accommodation. Asked at the Tourist Information Office and directed to Hotel Nelson which an Australian and his Austrian wife ran. It was 50.00SF for the room only. That was a bit steep but I had a good night’s sleep. I had two wurst and rolls at 6.50SF each, a ½ litre of Feldschlossen and a bottle of Giraf (6.9%). I thought the drinks were expensive. I had a game of darts, 301 game with electronic scorer. Went to bed at 23.30, crashed out on the drink.
Monday 14th June 1993 Solothurn to La Chaux de Fonds
An easy ride along the Aare valley to Biel / Bienne via Arch. Stopped to buy yoghurt and bananas as there was no breakfast served at the pub in Solothurn. It seems I woke them up to pay as they thought I had paid last night. Perhaps I did because the snack and drinks were expensive enough. Could have got away with that one! Passed through Buren, a quaint town with cobbled streets and a wooden bridge over the River Aare. On to Orpund with wide views to the north of the Jura. I followed the river from Buren to Orpund. At Biel I ate the bananas and yoghurt, then along the lakefront and along the north side of the lake to Twann along a cycle path parallel but a short distance from the main road. The main road wasn’t too busy though. After Twann the battle with another pass started. This is Le Chasseral, a real tough challenge through quiet woods and eventually to the top. It took me ages to get up there. (Pass 5). On the other side the road descends to a ‘T’ junction and a left turn on the next road took me over the ‘les Pontins’ down to St Imier. I was above this at le Chasseral and could make out St Imier below. I also descended the ‘le Paquier’ so this pass, though tough, took me over two others also, so completed up to pass number 7. Up the Twannschluct, another scenic gorge. Lamboing was reached next, without too much effort. The way on was slightly up to Nods then began a repeat of the Weissenstein only even more of a grueller. It took me two hours to reach the top, and I could see the highest part of the road from Nods. Plant equipment was tree clearing by the side of the road on the way up. It was very cold at the summit. I took a picture looking down to Neuchatel then the cloud covered the view very quickly. A policeman stood by his temporary hut at the top giving advice to the few motorists up there. From here it was down very steeply to les Pontins. The cold was really biting despite covering my hands with cycle mitts and socks over them. A sweep downhill to Dombresson, the weather became warmer so the descent was quite pleasant- and not much traffic on the road. Slightly up from here to Hauts Geneveys but steeper near the end, then right and on up to Vue des Alpes on a busy main road, (Pass 8) I cycled on the side path most of the way up. The traffic was fast but being a main road the steepness was not so bad and it only took me ¾ of an hour to reach the top. I had coffee, chips and whisky (to warm me up for the descent!) I sent Ruth a second post card. I was down the pass in 15 minutes into La Chaux de Fonds and was really pleased to see clear signs to the YHA through the large town. I booked in at 20.00. Hardly any beds were taken. I sent the hotel keys back to Solothurn. Being of dizzy mind I failed to leave them there this morning. At the YHA a group of lads came in after midnight despite the lady waiting for me to turn in after 22.00 after a really good meal of mixed salad, steak and chips, washed down with a bottle of Chianti. For some reason I took some time to nod off that night.
Ruth’s Mum and Dad go away for a week on the Isle of Skye today.
Tuesday 15th June 1993 La Chaux de Fonds to Col de Mollendruz
Up at 07.30, the usual bread, cheese, jam and plenty of coffee and hot chocolate. Out at 08.30. The weather started drizzly and this lasted as far as Le Locle. I made for la Gare to find times of trains – being at my very lowest period on this holiday because of the weather, but then I thought better of it. The drizzle cleared and was dry again. I began the ninth pass, les Ponts de Martel. It was very easy going through the woods and followed by a massive downhill into the valley that stretches for miles along the flat in both directions – a rift valley. Away from the valley on the other side it’s a sudden climb up the tenth pass. Le Petits Ponts, down slightly then up again to pass 11, Le Tourne Pass in open country. The top half of the pass is less of a gradient and I reached the top sooner than expected. There are good views of Neuchatel and the north of the lake from up here. From there, steeply down through the woods then sharp right on the way down to Rochfort along the Val de Travers, a nature reserve. From there slightly up along the Areuse valley. It started raining again when I reached Couvet. On with the rainwear. Had a short stop at Fluerier for an Ovalmaltine and chocolate pain (3.90SF) then began on the way up a pleasant, quiet pass, well wooded, through a natural arch in one place on the way. This is the Col de Etroits. The way slowly rising through very pleasant woods to the upper valley. It started raining just as I reached the top of my 12th pass. Down from here and immediately into Ste Croix. There’s a tank defence wall running the length of the ridge up here, a left over from the Second World War. It’s stretches from either side of the road, giant concrete arms about 6ft wide. The rain cleared a couple of miles further on, took a right to Baulmers and Mont Cherand under the shadow of the Jura – and the rain clouds. Down to Les Clees and up again across the valley floor, connecting with the parallel main road on the other hill, down to Croy where I turned off on a slight rise to the beautiful red roofs village of Romainmotier (where Diana Ross got married – how did she find this place?) Then the gradual ascent of the Col de Mollendruz. I took a photo of Lake Geneva from La Pruz, a long way down from here. It started raining but went off a few kilometres from the road summit. It was a bit of a struggle near the end. I decided to stay at the auberge on the col (Pass 13). 26SF for the bed and breakfast but 69SF all told as I had two meals! The woman owner wanted to talk. She ended up pouring her heart out as I was listening too well! She had lost her son on a motorbike accident two months ago. She tried to cover her loss and heartache with outward things but I told her she needed inner strength that only Jesus can give. I suggested she read John’s gospel. I went to bed at 23.30. This place was like a hostel, only a bit cleaner.
Wednesday 16th June 1993 Col de Mollendruz to Geneva
Out at 09.30 after a good sleep and breakfast. Down to le Pont, nothing to see here I was told. L’Abbeye is more interesting. There’s a very old church with a preserved Gothic arch. Along the Lac de Joux (the young lake) which looks a bit like a Scottish loch. The sharp cliff of Dent de Vaulion is at the north end. This is a very pleasant, quiet road just above the lake, rising before Cles to Le Brassus where the climbing begins for the first time today on the Col du Marchairuz, but first a visit to the
Co-op for milk and yoghurt. The day was hot, a total change from the last few days. At first it was difficult, shirt off for this one. I should have smeared sun tan cream on my shoulders because they hurt a bit after today. I thought I reached the summit of the col when I reached a crossing point of paths but was told by a parked motorist that it was 2 kilometres further. The last part of the pass was tough. The whole pass up the north side was full of open bush land just like a national park area – very pleasant. At the top I had a coffee in the hotel. I began to use these places to freshen up too. There were great views on the way down pass 14. I could see the Jet d’Eau at Geneva way down below in the distance. Beyond that I could see Mont Blanc and Dents du Midi clearly. I turned right four kilometres down the south side of Col du Marchairuz heading for St Cergue, downhill all the way heading for pass 15, the Col de la Givrine. It was easy riding as far as the junction of roads at Les Muids then very steeply up through Arzier – this took ages. At St Cergue I had lunch at 14.00; bread and cheese from this morning’s breakfast. Here I found a toilet to freshen up as I was feeling hot, needed a good swill. Just past here there were major road works. A cyclist on his way down got his bike wheel chopped up by a motorist passing too close. Shaken but not stirred I carried on up following the Nyon to la Cure narrow gauge railway to the top, which wasn’t very interesting. After the climb below, the top was sudden and very disappointing, however the next pass made up for it. Not very far down the other side I reached the French border. I was waved through by Swiss customs but it was a different story getting back into Switzerland again later, near Geneva. It was a good thing it wasn’t far down – didn’t have far to climb back up again. There were no steep gradients from La Cure to Col de la Faucille. This is a very pleasant wooded way, and scenic on a ridge above the valley looking out over Geneva. There are no steep gradients on the north side but once over it’s a long way down to Geneva in the distance. At Tebagnoz I saw skiers coming down a ski chute – like Eddie the Eagle only faster. The col was so easy I got up it geared on the large chain ring. I followed two other cyclists up. I bought Ruth a card and posted it here, pass 16. Steeply down to Geneva with great views of the lake and the mountains beyond. I was freewheeling down many hair-raising hairpins to Gex. I took a photo of Lake Geneva from here. I stopped to have a look at Napoleon’s Fountain. There is an inscription that indicates that he stopped here to water the horses on the way over the pass. I stopped in Gex to have a coffee then freewheeled down further to Ornex – very scenic looking back but not this part of the road – heavily built up – even more so when I crossed the border back into Switzerland. My passport was examined thoroughly at the border (as I’m writing this on the train from Spiez to Basel it might be risking it to say they’ll let anybody out but you try and get in! It’s always the same at Basel station.)
At the border there is a tunnel under Geneva Airport runway. It was quite (but nor a quiet!) experience going through this. Planes were taking off and landing frequently. For cyclists and walkers they ride and walk on boards above the main road in the tunnel and below the runway for about ½ kilometre – hair-raising! There’s noise above and below. Down into Geneva. I was on the right road and found the hostel on the front by the old UN building almost immediately. After booking in, a shower and change and locking the bike in the hostel garage below I went for a walk along the waterfront. Dressed only in pyjamas, socks and pumps (what no pants?). Took a photo of the Jet d’Eau and found a good pizza place – it was hot in there! That with wine and mixed salad it was plenty to satisfy. A walk around the streets of le Pigue afterwards then back to the hostel at 23.30. I had the worst sleep of the week, two Americans in a snoring duet in the dorm all night. I changed rooms at 02.00, I was so desperate. In the dark I found another bed in the next dorm. It was very quiet in there and I slept well the rest of the night. I was shocked to find out the next morning that I was in the girls’ dorm. I lay low until they all left. I got up, checked that the coast was clear and slipped back along the corridor into the male dorm.
The two Americans were still snoring.
Thursday 17th June 1993 Geneva to Saanan
I was down in time for breakfast, just about, but I wasn’t hungry. Out at 09.30, I should have taken the train to Lausanne, didn’t realise it was so far along the lake – 61km (38 miles). The lake road is mainly flat along the busy main road. From Geneva through the lakeside park area to Chambery. The built up area finishes at Versoix. I made my first stop at Rolle, a small harbour. I was getting thirsty, as I hardly had any breakfast so had apple and biscuits with an apple drink from the bag, and chocolate. There were road works at Alleman. It started raining a little but this turned out to be the only rain of the day, just a light shower. I stopped again at Morges. The day was a scorcher from here on and the cloudiness from Geneva had dissipated, giving way to a bright blue sky. Arrived in Lausanne at Ouchy on the lakeside then started off uphill into the centre of Lausanne and the railway station. There didn’t seem much to see in Ouchy. Harry Madden, my boss at work, wanted me to buy some slides of Lake Geneva. I found a small photographer’s shop opposite the station and to the right on the main road that had just the slides he wanted. This would set him back £8.50 for 8 slides, hope he pays up! Later I booked the bike onto the 13.07 to Aigle for 10.00SF I had 20 minutes so went for a Big Mac right opposite the station (couldn’t find anywhere else to eat in 20 minutes!). It was a pleasant train trip, to catch up on time, from Lausanne to Aigle. This seems to be the best part of the lake for the view of the mountains. Next time I come I’m going to ride this. Castel Chillon at the end of the lake appears on many a Swiss picture and it really is impressive. The train arrived in Aigle at 15.00. It was cloudy on the mountain tops but the weather looked promising. I unwrapped the bike from the plastic bag and stuffed that in my pannier. Unloaded the bike from the guard’s van and wandered into Aigle.
I saw the Aigle / Leysin narrow gauge rack railway going up the mountain. This is a yellow and white livery one-coach service. I took the valley road to Ollen, a slight rise from the main road. I filled the water bottles from a drinking fountain here then started on the climb of the Col de la Croix (pass no.17)
It was tough going up to Villiers- and hot. I could see the large Palace Hotel perched on the edge of the cliff from at least 5km down the pass. I stopped several times on the way up. This really was a tough one. It was cold in the clouds at Villiers on this, my highest pass on the tour so far. The top half of the pass is more open than the lower half hidden in the woods. The cloud eventually disappeared and there were great views back down the valley and of the les Diablerets Mountain that is famous for its glacier but this can’t be seen from the road. I reached the summit with little energy left. The Swiss army had set up camp at the top. There was nobody else there; no restaurants, etc. The climb had involved many steep hairpins. I took the obligatory photos at the road top then careered steeply down to les Diablerets village with helmet on. It was warm now, though. There was sun in the valley and I was glad I didn’t have to bike up this way. I had an Ovalmaltine in a pub down below. I asked about a room for the night but decided to plod on further. After a short rest I should be OK for the next climb. The Col du Pillon was only 4km in length (compared to 17km for the last one) so I decided to go for it. I stopped just above the village at a kiddie’s park to fish some chocolate and biscuits from my bag with a view of the rack railway and descent of a rail car from Leysin. It took 45 minutes to reach the top of the Col du Pillon, pass number 18, compared to the 3 hours it took me to climb up the Col de la Croix. It was easy in comparison. There’s a restaurant at the top but I gave it a miss. Donned bike helmet and freewheeled down to Saanan. This is a long, gradual descent. I had arrived at the top at 20.00 and hoped to reach Saanan before 21.00 to book in at the hostel. I reached there in 40 minutes, covering 20km. That was 1km in 2 minutes, which wasn’t bad going. I passed through Gstaad; this seems to be an interesting place. I was glad to be back in German speaking Switzerland and the Bernese Oberland but it wouldn’t be for long. At Saanan I booked in at the hostel at 22.00 and asked for a meal, a bit tongue in cheek, but was surprised when they agreed. I had rice, egg, and lettuce in oil; bread followed by chocolate mousse and iced tea. The warden is an ecologist and proud of it.
I was told not to use too much water when washing the dishes because too much washing up liquid is bad in the effluence. Tell Ruth that one! Don’t throw away any waste food, as it’s good for the pigs. Switch off all lights, conserve energy. Take off your shoes in the house or the friction wears out natural fibres. His wife told me about a pass to the west of the Jaun Pass that isn’t on most maps. I should take this instead of the Saananmoser tomorrow. The pass is the Mittleberg at 1800 metres. It is higher than the Col de la Croix, 1778 metres so would be a grand finale towards the end of my tour. It was nearly 23.00 now so there was no time to explore Saanan after tea. The village was a little too far away to walk around anyway and it was really dark outside. The hostel lies out of the village. There was a lot of creaking going on - this was a real Swiss chalet. I slept very well, though. The only other room occupant was a Canadian walker who was doing the mountains the next day. He left at 07.00.
Friday 18th June 1993 Saanan to Spiez
Breakfast was shared with a Finnish couple after the large party group had left. It would seem that I had met all the night’s guests now as there was also a quiet English couple seated at breakfast. The group that left early numbered about 50 so no wonder there was a lot of creaking of floorboards last night. The Finnish couple were saying now was the time to visit Finland before prices rise steeply as there is high inflation there and also prices will be on par with the E.C. soon after their country joins.
The warden told me about the Giacomo Pass that links an Italian valley to the Nufenen Pass. He said it was not possible to take a bike over the pass because it’s only a footpath. He suggested trying it from the Nufenen side and see how far I get as it’s down the mountain from the Nufenen pass, heading south.
I didn’t waste any time getting out this morning. I decided to have a look at the Saananmoser, pass number 19. The warden’s wife said this pass was a joke; even she could make it on her heavy frame bike. Sure enough it was only a slight rise up the main road. It took me 30 minutes in middle gear to get to it. There’s not even a summit marker or altitude sign at the top. Looking over the pass it did seem quite a way down the other way. I did an about turn, back down into Saanan and turned right at the church for the Mittelberg Pass, number 20. I couldn’t find the actual road at first – it’s close to the church but that road doesn’t continue up to the Mittelberg. I asked a local who directed me. I turned off the main road at a concrete arch signposted “Hotel Sonnenberg” – and it was up here. It seemed like a path only sign but then I realised that yellow signs without red and white horizontal flash on the name direction are possible tracks and not just footpaths. I followed this past the Hotel Sonnenberg and up steeply. The path soon became a road and went down again into a beautiful valley called Vallee de Fenils and I was back into the French speaking area in Canton Fribourg. The scenery along here is fantastic. There is a rippling stream to the right of the road for many miles. The likeness to a tranquil scene soon came to an abrupt end at the hills and the rise in the road that are the foothills to the Dent de Ruth that now loomed ahead – and it was ruthless! This was a savage climb up my steepest road ever in the Alps to date. One great consolation is that the scenery is great. Looking back down the valley and up to the Dent de Ruth. I took a few photos. It was a struggle getting up here but the Jaunpass finale later wouldn’t be a pushover either. Although the Jaunpass isn’t as difficult as this, it was a very peaceful as there weren’t many cars on the Mittelberg.
Hidden at both ends and neither end signposted made sure of its seclusion. Down very steeply to Ablandschen. I visited the quaint church that can be seen for miles around as the whole landscape is short grass and few trees. From here steeply down to the valley where the road runs parallel to the road going up the Jaunpass, but a long way below that road. The road carries on down, a bit frustrating when you see the continuing rise of the Jaunpass road opposite, on the other side of the valley. The further I went along here the further I had to climb back up again later on the other side – if only the clever Swiss had bridged the valley but I suppose there would be no achievement gained in climbing the Jaunpass?
I had a meal at Jaun village; chips, bratwurst, mixed salad, bread and beer (16.50SF) then turned right at the end of the Mittelberg road and started the long climb up to the Jaunpass under the scorching sun. I plastered myself with sun cream (I had been applying it since the Mollendruz Pass). The pass became tougher toward the top and again here there were roadworks; taking out sharp bends, building wider bridges and at one point building a new tunnel which will do away with a winding curve. It’s a pity really as the old road is quite scenic, narrow and quiet. The road constructors were only building on this side of the pass, though, which was fortunate so I could have an unhindered descent! Another cyclist overtook me near to the top. I asked him to take my photo when I reached him a few minutes later. This was my last pass, number 21 on this tour. I had planned to finish with one more a bit further north on the way back to Bern, the Selibuhl Pass, but this would have to wait until some future tour. I had a coffee at the top of the Jaunpass then began the hair (pin) raising descent down the other side to Boltigen. There are plenty of curves on the descent, good views and a panorama board erected by the T.C.S. on the way. Other cyclists were going up- what fools- never catch me biking the Alps! From here I was following the Simme (Simmertal) down to Spiez. This was an anti-climax and was reaching the ‘fed up’ stage. I bought an orange drink and yoghurt from a stand by the side of the road at Ringoldingen. I was ripped off for 5.00SF (should have been 4.00SF) by an archtype grabbing Swiss capitalist! – with gnarled hands.
At the junction of roads below the Burgfluh I decided to head for Spiez station. I booked the bike as far as Basel for 8.00SF and I went on the same train, the 18.07 direct to Basel. At the station I bought a video of the Bern to Domodossola line. On the train I caught up with the diary and read magazines that I’d carried. At Basel I was disappointed because I couldn’t get a bed for the night at the hostel, it was full. I had collected the bike from the station and decided to strike north over the border into Germany and try to find a bed at the hostel in Lorrach, 5km from Basel. This little jaunt meant I had cycled in five countries in the week of my tour. I cycled out over the main bridge that spans the Rhine, then right and followed the river then north east. The Youth Hostel is situated in Steinweg, number 40 in Lorrach. I booked in and found out that there were two American guys from Chicago also in the room. There were only three spaces in here, one bunk and one bed. They were cycling up the Rhine from to Amsterdam and across to England. And had another four weeks in Europe before heading home. I had a quick wash, no food to buy, it was too late for that. I made do with chocolate from the bags and a bottle of pop from the vending machine in the hostel. I went to sleep at 23.00 and set the alarm.
Saturday 19th June 1993 Basel – Como – Zurich – Basel (by train)
Up at 07.30. .I breakfasted with the Chicago pair. I biked back from Lorrach and straight to Basel station but stopped off at a supermarket on the way for yoghurt and milk – followed in by the Chicago pair. In Basel I was checked carefully at the Customs. I wa asked if I was carrying any meat. My passport was scrutinised like never before, and stamped. The official also checked it against a ‘wanted persons’ list. On the last stop along the main road, in the short stretch of open country before Basel, I ate the yoghurt and milk then repacked my bags. I handed the bike across at Basel SNCF and booked it on the night train, cost 110FF.
I left in the opposite direction on the 11.07 to Como, destination Milan. I arrived in Como at 15.45 and headed for the supermercardo by the station and the lake and bought 10 litres of boxed wine to take home. It was very fortunate that the supermarket was so close to the station as my bags were now very heavy! I struggled back in the heat around the corner on to the station and caught the 17.07 to Zurich., arriving at 20.50. I bought a coffee on the train, and a beer. In Zurich I bought two bottles of mineral water and a beer. The mineral water ended up all the way home. I read magazines and chucked a few away on the journey back. It was great to have plenty of space in the carriage, most of the time it was empty except for me. I had the space to re-arrange my panniers. At Zurich station I grabbed a trolley to put the heavy bags on and wheeled them around the station. I had time to buy Ruth some chocolates, 3.90SF and some sweets for work, 2.80SF, also a beer and bratwurst, 7.50SF. I made my way over to platform 12 for the 22.00 to Ostend. There was only one coach on the train bound for Ostend – the wagon–lits sleeper, so I sat in the next coach. I had to get off at Basel to walk through Customs then get on again at Basel SNCF. There was only one other person in the compartment, an English lad who eventually got off at Luxembourg. Another lad got in there and went as far as Gent. Other than that I had the compartment to myself and slept well. The train arrived in Ostend at 08.50. I collected the bike, unwrapped it from the Swiss plastic bag and shoved that into my panniers.
Sunday 20th June 1993 Ostend to Holmes Chapel
Rode on to the boat at 09.45. In Dover at 12.45. Biked to Dover Priory station and out from Priory at 13.48. Changed at Faversham for the fast train to London Victoria. Casey’s chips and tea for £1.50. Biked along The Mall , Piccadilly Circus, Shaftsbury Avenue, Tottenham Court Road. Met a fellow who had done the London to Brighton marathon today. Caught the 16.48 train from London Euston. There was no time to phone Ruth as there was no waiting time in Euston. I phoned Ruth from Crewe. She picked me up halfway home at Wheelock, and we the loaded bike into the car. Home sweet home.