Tuesday 27th May. Keflavik Airport to Skogar
We left Keflavik at 09.00. It was a great introduction to the country as we were met at the airport arrivals by a guy from Sixt Car Hire who noticed his small logo on our rental paper and guided us to his car and took us to the Sixt rental check in building not far from the terminal. We checked our hire Chevrolet manual car over, an free upgrade as we had said we were touring the whole island. I had requested a VW Golf manual but the Chevrolet was a bigger car at no extra cost. We did pay the extra fee for the volcanic ash insurance and second driver agreement though then drove out towards Reykjavik passing lava fields and passing signs for Elves and Trolls town called Hfanarflordur then bypassing the capital passing ugly residential blocks that look like tin boxes from a distance mixed with industry to reach the start of our adventure at Mosfellsbaer and the turning to the right for Þingvellir and the start of the Golden Circle.
We took a first stop at Helgafell at 11.00 for photos and a breather to take in the landscape back over the capital then drove the open road along the Mossfellsdalur to the first view above the lake of Þingvavatn and a large field of hundreds of placed balanced stones overlooking the lake. Into Þingvavatn itself just off the road to the right, parked by the visitor centre then walked down the wooden ramp to the rift in the fault line that separates the European and North American plates. The fault line goes the full length of the Atlantic and passes through Iceland at this point and stretches further north to the top of the island. We walked for 1.½ hours along the fault line and back. This was the original road until a landslide collapse. At the end of the cliffs is a waterfall where witches in the middle ages were dunked to death. Over the cliffs is a wide open space for miles across but nearby a small village that was once close to the main road but now stands alone. 11.30 to 13.00
Later we drove along Laugervatn to the hot sulphur springs of Strokkur and Geysir. We parked again at a visitor centre to the right of the road then walked the huge area of the hot springs that we immediately saw close to the road. The walkway goes past smaller pungent springs first before coming to Strokkur. Ruth was fortunate enough to take a photo of the eruption that occurs every 6 minutes. I read now that Geysir itself, the large one from which all other geysers worldwide are named, no longer erupts. It was much larger but last blew in 1933. The whole area smells of rotten eggs. With the smell lingering we went back to the car and drove to the last highlight on the Golden Circle however this is the crowning glory, more interesting than our previous stops. We could see Gulfoss waterfall, the largest waterfall in Europe, from 2km away and shortly before reaching it we could hear the roar. It’s a worthy contender to the Victoria Falls in Rhodesia or the Niagara Falls, Ontario. (Niagara has a 51m drop to Gulfoss 32 metre). We walked the upper section on the left side to the top of the drop where there is a platform over the edge then walked back and down over 100 steps to the lower path to reach the bottom of the first drop of 21 metres passing through spray towards the deafening noise. We were very impressed – must have been – so many photos taken!
From there the intention was to drive past Hekla Volcano via Arnes and Stong and take in the medieval village there then rejoin road one via Skaro however time was against us. We would arrive in Skogar 2 hours earlier if we drove the 17km from Storahof junction direct to our hotel so we decided to give these two points of interest a miss. As a bonus we took in the huge waterfall at Seljalandfoss on the way as it was only just off route one to the left. We had a stop here and took photos. This was about the only time we saw an entrepreneur at a tourist site.
There was a stall there, man selling delicious sandwiches and Icelandic woollen jumpers. From here past the famous Eyjafallajokull looming over to the left that exploded in 2010 and responsible for a huge ash cloud that put paid to many flights and holiday plans in August that year - including some of my cycling friends coming for the 25th anniversary BIG meeting in the Lake District and Peak District that year.
We reached Skogar village and our accommodation off to the left of Road One only to find that the accommodation was double booked. This seemed a nice place but Trip advisor had re-booked us at a hotel nearby that was new so they wanted to make an impression. It was here that we had our second God incident after the initial car upgrade – we had a free room upgrade, no extra cost and a much better place to stay the night and with a view of Skogarfoss waterfall from the hotel. We booked in, paid then rested for a while before strolling the field to the foot of Skogarfoss then walking the 460 steps (sad, I counted them!) to the highest point overlooking the top of the waterfall where there is a metal platform over the edge for a fantastic view of the drop. There’s a path over a tall step style here for a continuation upstream. Eventually the path comes to a glacier. Back down the steps for us though. We went to bed early that night at 9.30pm as we had a very early start the following morning and have lost one hour as Iceland time is still GMT being further west. There was a slight problem, the curtains were thin and we soon discovered that darkness this far north is only from midnight to 03.00 at this time of the year but sleep was no problem.
Wednesday 28th May Skogar to Hofn
We had some rain and found out we had a front windscreen wiper malfunction when we reached Freysnes before the Vatnajokull Glacier. At 13.30 we rang Sixt at Reykjavik explaining the problem. They advised they would send a man with a replacement car. The Sixt agent left the capital at 15.00 but took him until 20.00 to reach us at Hofn. After a short stop at Haalden when we had more rain to advise them where we were we continued on during the next dry spell a few more kilometres. People had kindly stopped at Haalden to enquire if we had a problem when they saw me reversing into the lay-by off the road. It was nothing but a cinder track but apparently there is a good view here of the Vatnajokull Glacier – but we couldn’t see it in the rain. When it went off we limped along as best as we could with Ruth having to jump out every kilometre to wipe the windscreen with my dry socks. Hold on, I might want to wear them tomorrow! OK, you’ll have to put up with aromic odour from my feet. After the ice lake at Jokulsarlon – truly breathtaking- in more ways than one – so cold at 5 degrees – we made slow progress to the Jon Steingrimsson monument where we had to wait a while and update Sixt on our position. They hoped we would now continue to Hofn but that depended on the rain subsiding. Jon Steingrimsson, we read at the monument, delivered the fire sermon because after he preached his heart out the lava from the eruption of the nearby Lakagigar Volcano halted. Good to have a sermon that stops you in your tracks. We continued on until the rain started again but we were edging closer to a road descent that will take us away from the Vatnajokull and we hoped (and it happened) that in lower ground the weather would be dry. Our last stop was at Holmur. Ruth was worn out jumping out of the car every kilometre to quickly wipe the windscreen before it got spotted again when we progressed in the drizzle but now suddenly the rain stopped and we drove the final kilometres into Hofn in dry conditions (Oh don’t talk wet). We were two hours behind schedule but at least we had arrived, and safely, God incidence number three if you don’t believe in luck. To backtrack we had experienced some interesting sights before the windscreen wiper failure. We had a stop at Vik (meaning harbour) at the extreme south point of the mainland, it’s approach was among fascinating green sloping hills and past the lighthouse in a gap to the right, downhill to Vik and we parked on the left at a lay-by and strolled down to the village then off to the left to the church overlooking the village. It was open so we had a look round. Each of the windows represented a Bible verse and we had the paper from the entrance to guide us – in English. We stopped at the lava fields in Eldhraun area where there were many of the small pillars of stones just like at Þingvellir yesterday. From there we drove on to Kalfafell where we stopped to admire Vatnajokull before us and read (and photograph!) the information boards. From there to Freysnes where the rain started and we discovered the malfunction and asked at the garage/café if there was anywhere locally we could get it fixed. There wasn’t and we were given garage addresses in Hofn so we knew that from the outset our choice was either drive on as best as we could to Hofn or park up if the rain continues and wait for the Sixt agent with the replacement car to arrive from Reykjavik. The rain went off after a short stop at Haalden so we continued to Jokulsarlon and was really impressed with the moving broken off mini icebergs coming from the glacier, the amphibious boat, sudden drop in temperature – and well – the whole scene. There’s a small cantilever bridge here that crosses the river mouth and through that we could see other mini icebergs floating out to sea from the glacial lagoon.
On then to Hofn with a couple of rain stops in-between and found our pre-booked hotel on the waterfront, Hvammur Inn but again it was double booked so we were offered superior accommodation at no extra cost due to their error – ah, God incidence number 4 ! We were so grateful! Hofn Inn down the road was better we found out as he drove in front of us to show us the way. It was also nearer to a garage to re-fuel and a really good restaurant at a quaint wooden building where we had fantastic pizzas 2 x 2150 ISK, good planning, thank you God! The Sixt agent came before we went for the meal, really good timing as we were ready to go out after relaxing. He exchanged our manual Chevrolet for a larger Chevrolet Trax, automatic. It was no extra cost he said but it was a much better car – ah, of course, God incidence number 5, we’re well loved! I was apprehensive about the controls of san automatic having not driven one before but as we journeyed on the remaining days both of us found it so much better especially on inclines and gravel roads. Ruth found it easier to drive. We had a ¼ of a tank of petrol left in the first hired car but there was a ½ a tank of diesel in the replacement, God incidence number 5? We had a short walk around the harbour area then returned to the hotel. Happy, especially bellies after Kaffi Hornio, we wrote the diary and crashed out before midnight. It was separate single beds in the room but I was away from the window and slept well.
Thursday 29th May Hofn to Eskifjorour
I was up early this morning when Ruth was still asleep as I wanted to check the car and become accustomed to the controls and then assemble my bike. The Sixt agent had explained the controls to me yesterday but thought it best to go over the automatic differences until I was happy with them so drove around the garage forecourt and used the reverse and braking. I felt confident so then assembled the bike from the flight bag. I used the new pump but exploded the rear tube putting too much air into it – this is a good pump! So glad I brought spare tubes so fitted another one being careful with the pressure counter this time. Bike assembled, front wheel detached I went back to wake Ruth then we went for breakfast across the road at their breakfast bar at 08.15. Later we put in 8000 ISK of diesel at the garage then walked the headland from the first hotel. We were attacked as we walked along the causeway by a swarm of kria – arctic terns, protecting their eggs. Workman told us that the birds migrate from Israel in May to nest then return in Israel. Can’t understand why birds would want to nest in much colder conditions then return. We walked to the Seaman’s monument at the headland then back along the gravel track to the left into Hofn and left the village at 09.30 for the first sop of the day 6km away for my first ride. We passed through the Allmanskard Tunnel then parked up on the left where I unloaded my bike for its first ride on Iceland. Allmanskard, BIG number 7, climb is the old road before the tunnel was built. I rode up the wide gravel track on an easy gradient for 2km to the top and down the shorter west side and back up again. At the time there were road machinery vehicles at the foot of the rise and the road was marked as closed from this side. Back at the top I took photos at the information boards then freewheeled back down to Ruth waiting at the car, half an hour and an easy start. We drove on along the coast on Road One with many stops along the way.
There are many great views along here, cliff scenery and mountains. Stops were often and at one point a group of Spaniards in their 4 x 4’s asked us to take photos so they reciprocated with some good photos of us. There are many fjords to negotiate and gravel sections to drive but very interesting if it was a bit tedious in and out of the headlands and estuaries. At Tunga we could have taken a shorter route and no gravel section to reach the aluminium works town of Reydarfjordur but we weren’t to know – until we met the better road. It was hard going from Vattarnes to reach that town. At Eskifjordur we found our pre-booked accommodation at Kaffihusid Eskifirdi after asking at a café on the opposite side of the road. We booked in at 17.15 and rested a while. At 18.00 I rode out for my attempt at the second BIG conquest, BIG 6 Oddskard on the road to Neskaupstadur. The road is a good surface all the way and extremely scenic. Lupines grow by the side of the road in contrast to the snowy conditions further up. The snow walls were high by the time I reached the tunnel at the top. I was so glad I didn’t have to cycle the tunnel to reach the top of the road as here on the right is a blue sign, the summit marker. The tunnel has an automatic drop down door to ensure traffic traversing only goes through one way and then in convoy as the light changes at each end. From here after a few photos I made my way slowly down taking more photos and into warmer air lower down. Ruth meanwhile had a walk through Eskifjordur village and past the start of my climb further along the road. Later we had a fantastic meal of beef burger and hamburger with salad, chips, tomato, lettuce and fish sauce, 2550 x 2 = £18 each. We sat in on a pub quiz going on soon after but couldn’t answer any of the questions but of course not as we couldn’t understand the language!
We were warned that there would be noise tonight until 03.00 as the fisherman had a holiday tomorrow. It didn’t bother us, we slept very well but I did put earplugs in as a precaution – and after last night I put on eyeshades.
Friday 30th May, Eskifjordur to Husavik
We travel to Husavik today and left the guest house to drive to BIG 5 Hellisheidi along a gravel road, like the Wild West! The road was very dusty. The clouds of dust that appear on the horizon are other cars coming along the road. We drove for about an hour to reach the foot of the BIG. The climb up was closed as indicated at the foot but several vehicles were on the way up only to be re-appearing shortly after on the way down. I almost managed to cycle to the top but snowdrifts and ice covered the road making it too dangerous to traverse. Ruth waited very patiently at the foot of the rise reading her book while I climbed steadily up the gravelly hairpins to just before the top, negotiated one section of hard packed ice easily enough as it was possible with approx one foot (300cm) width free of ice. Two more turns but the second one, the final turn before the top, was completely covered by hard ice. I tried to walk across very carefully with the bike but my feet were slipping even in good sole trainers, not cycling shoes. I was disappointingly close to the top but it was too dangerous to continue. Nobody else will come this way as no motorist could pass the previous ice section below. I turned back, took a few photos and on the way down. Ruth also took some photos of me as I approached the car. It was a beautiful day, sunny and with the snowy mountains surrounding the area.
Ruth braved it for the return trip to the main road. She drove the car for the first time and this date will go down in her history as the first time she has driven a left hand drive and on the right side of the road. This road was perfect for the first time (except for the gravel surface) as it was flat, hardly any traffic and one long straight road. It was always possible to see well in front. It took an hour to return to the main road and she was now confident enough to continue on Road one, taking a right for Myvatn. She drove on all the way to the Grimstadir turn-off in very bleak conditions. It was very sunny and warm but the snow was thick on either side of the road all the way from rejoining the main road to Jokunder where the scenery changed to the lower lava fields. We continued on over Namafjall which was my next BIG and parked in Reykjahlio at the eastern edge of Lake Myvatn. At first we thought we’d found the perfect spot by a shop and tourist office – until we saw the swarm of insects that made a bee (?) line for our open window – quick move! Later we were still removing unwanted guests from the car. Ruth waited and continued with her book while I bundled out the bike again and cycled back up Road One from the way we came and to the top of the climb called Namaskard/Namafjall, BIG 3. It was fairly easy, a gentle rise past the pale blue hot sulphur pool to the left at Bjarnarflag towards the facing rift of a mountain split in two, Daljfall which marks the line of the Myvatn rift. The whole area is a landscape of sulphur deposits and grey gypsum that was once mined and exported to use with gunpowder. Over the top on the eastern side is Hverir, a large field of solfataras and it stinks of something similar to rotten eggs. These are blue/grey belching mud pools caused by groundwater percolating down for over a kilometre to magma levels, heating then forced back to the surface where it emerges through sticky red soil at 200 degrees centigrade. Nearby are steam vents where rocks, gravel and earth burst out forming mounds through which vapour screams out ferociously. There’s no road marker at the top of the rise so settled for the information boards for photographs and the high view over Lake Myvatn to the west.
I rejoined Ruth at the car and we decided not to go back over Namafjall to Grimstadir to see Dettifoss waterfall and approach Husavik from that direction.
Originally I had reserved accommodation in Grimstadir but had not sent credit details so we had already decided we would alter course and stay in Husavik tonight on the slim chance we could experience whale watching as this is the best place in Iceland to see them. We changed plans and decided to save on time and drive to Husavik directly from Reykjahlio, 52 km instead of 145 km. It was an interesting drive to the north coast over high ground with far distant views across the landscape. Once there we looked at the town map by the side of the road just before entering and could see a few guest houses indicated. Checking in our guide book we read of three possibilities so went to look for them. We were happy with the first one we found, Guesthouse Arbol on Asgardsvegur. It was very traditional and very clean, pastel painted walls and the type of place that Ruth would have painted. We settled in and parked the car by the side of the house between two others, one from Hanover belonging to a German couple we chatted with when we arrived – in English though! Later we went out to look for food band found a pub restaurant ‘Gamli Baukur’ on the harbour front and in front of fishing boats. We ordered two vegetarian pizzas. A waitress apologised for our long wait and offered us two pints of lager ‘on the house’. The wait was only about half an hour and we were enjoying sitting at the waterfront watching boats and people. The beer would have cost us the equivalent of £6.00 a pint so we thought the waiter was very generous. Does God approve of beer? We enjoyed another generous gift that wasn’t requested. I was even offered a blanket as I was sitting outside in shorts but it may have been because I look old! We enjoyed our pizzas and went inside later then walked the harbour and back to the room for a good nights sleep.
Saturday 31st May Husavik to Stadur
We left Husavik at 09.15 and passed through Akreyri, we didn’t stop to see if there was anything of interest there but nothing appealed to us from the main road through the second biggest town. When we set off this morning there was drizzle but it stopped later. We parked the car 2km to the east of Ytri Baegisa just before the first rise and at 11.15 I cycled past the small light blue lone church to the left of the road just before the first rise. Because of some rain I started off with rain jacket and over-trousers but as I progressed the rain ceased so it was down to cycle shorts and vest. Ruth was content to carry on with her book in the car while I set off to cycle Big 2 along an upper valley called Oxnadalsheidi. This is a gentle rise along Hringvegur Valley following the stream coming down on the right. I stopped at the information boards on the way up, off the road on a slip road to the right, took some photos then carried on to the higher reaches of the valley. At Oxnadalur there was a short rise and the Engimyri Guesthouse to the right, I thought I had reached the top but continued on even though the road was going down slightly. It was a good thing I did because after a further 10 km I came to the rise that would lead to the top and had also reached the snowline. I phoned Ruth at this point and asked her to come and collect me from the top as it would take me about 1.½ hours to return to the parked car. She passed me near the top later and sent me a text to say she would park a little way down over the other side. She had to park on the road as there were no drive-offs. It was a tough final 4km to the top where I took photos of nothing much as there’s nothing there, no summit marker, no building, nobody – just a small mast to the left of the road. Following that I freewheeled down to Ruth waiting a short distance down and bundled the bike quickly into the car as we were causing a minor obstruction. The western side of the climb is fairly steep, more so than the eastern side cycled I thought. Some interesting valley scenery in the snow and we made our way towards Varmahlio where we stopped for free coffee at the N1 Service Station, the guide book says – but no longer – somebody there must have read the guide book! We picked up some useful brochures from the tourist office there, including the accommodation places we have stopped at overnight and some of those yet to come, tempted by the\ smorgasbord but didn’t – let’s enjoy our meal tonight, then continued on to Blonduos where we parked up between a petrol station and a modern concrete church that overlooks the small town. I found out later that the church was designed in the shape of a volcanic crater. We strolled across to visit but it was closed so continued into the village over the bridge and to the right where we parked in front of Hotel Gladheimar and took a look at the waterfront behind a boulder barrier, some old houses and an old green and white wooden church now replaced by the ugly structure on the rise dominating the village over the river. I was tempted by the smorgasbord in the hotel that people were tucking into when I walked in to have a nosey but then thought better of it! Back in the car we continued on to Stadur on the Hrutafjordur. It began to rain and we tried a hotel that was indicated off the main road to the left but there was no-one there and Ruth who went to look said we had to phone a number so gave it a miss and carried on along the side road and returned to the main road and took a left thinking we were on the road that would bring us to the junction for the Westfjords – but we were wrong. It soon became apparent that we had left the fjord and were driving upward and inland heading south on Road One and the rain was joined by foggy conditions and getting worse. We found a turning point to the right and doubled back knowing that since we had taken the turning on the side road for Stadur we had missed the road junction for the Westfjords.
We arrived at the road junction and parked before it at a strategically sited N1 petrol station and café. Ruth suggested we have our evening meal there and look for somewhere to stay later. This was a good suggestion so we made a frantic dash from the car to the café in torrential rain. I changed in the loo from my cycle clothing to something more sensible in the weather conditions then sat down and had meat soup and burger, chips and fizzy orange, unlimited refills – Ruth had a toasted sandwich and shared the drink refills. I asked at the counter for accommodation and we were given a phone number to ring. It was a different number from the one Ruth saw in the hotel but it turned out to be the same place! This time the owner was there when we arrived so we booked in. after settling in we took a short walk to Stadur church when the rain stopped, passing a dilapidated café on the road opposite. The hotel was a little expensive but we were glad of somewhere to perch for the night, the room had real black-out curtains to hide us from the 22+ hour daylight. We watched Sky TV for a while and learned of the tragic accident in Scotland of spectators killed watching a car rally. The following day we found out that we had definitely made the right decision on our choice of stay.
Sunday 1st June Stadur to Isafjordur
As there were only four people including us staying at the hotel overnight we were asked last night to eat at the N1 Service Station and ask for whatever we wanted and the bill would be paid by the hotel? We were to leave the key on the hotel reception desk and close the door behind us. We left the hotel at 08.30 and drove down to the garage and enjoyed a full breakfast. I even had ham and eggs! We had pastries sand cake and Ruth enjoyed salmon on pita bread with salad, apple cake, croissants and plenty of coffee. I couldn’t leave without trying all the coffee varieties from the machine – latte, Americano, espresso even Swiss mocha – chocolate and coffee. Today would be a long 7 hour drive from 09.45 to 16.45. We drove in rain to begin with but it was only drizzle. There was very low cloud but it didn’t detract from seeing good mountain and fjord scenery even if the top of the mountain sides were chopped off by the thick cloud. We found out that in the first 43km of our driving today there was no accommodation that we could have found last night – until Gudlaugsvik was reached, and then it was only simple accommodation, OK another God incident as we would have been really miserable last night sleeping in the car having driven much too far with the rain pelting on the metal roof and nothing to eat and Ruth not feeling too good and me feeling inadequate – we made the right decision and our experience of Iceland was still exciting and not a washout (literally). We continued on traversing three more fjords and took a stop at Holmavik at 11.15, still a bit drizzly but worth a short walk along the harbour to see what was going on. A crowd of people were there looking over into the water so we wandered along to see what they were looking at – funny that, a big crowd could soon gather if everybody around was to do that – but there weren’t many around, just those on the quayside so our curiosity got the better of us. There was a fishing competition going on, fishing we believe for plaice or some other flatfish. It was a competition for the kids and an organiser was weighing them and charting the weights. Another point of interest was a weird black building with a grass roof; the sorcery and witchcraft museum, café and the oldest building in town, we didn’t linger. While there we saw in harbour two of the huge fleet of twelve fishing vessels that the village boasts of.
We continued on inland drove upward over the steep Steingrimfjarharheidi, taking it slowly and carefully as the fog came down up here and there was much snow/ice either side of the road for many miles. We were relieved to see the Isafjardaidjup fjord ahead on the descent and away from the fog on the high ground. For a few hours now we had to negotiate a series of headlands and deep estuaries of seven long fjords before reaching our destination at Isafjordur for today. We stopped at a point on the way where there was an indication that this was a good viewpoint to observe seals and one enterprising house here advertised food and drink for sale and a few binoculars in a large plastic box for viewing the seals – no seals to be seen though! We had one more stop at Sudavik, 20 km from Isafjordur as we had read in the guide book of an arctic fox museum there and we were curious to see it especially as we read it was in an old reconstructed typical Icelandic building. We found the museum and had a look round seeing the plight of the fox with some stuffed examples on display. It’s a beautiful building and worth seeing just for the building alone. It was only when we walked out that we saw we were expected to pay an entrance fee.
We stopped at the last headland and took a short walk then drove the last fjord arriving in Isafjordur at 17.00. The lady was expecting us later but made up for it by talking to us for about an hour! She wanted to practice her English.
We were misled as we had expected to be staying at the little Icelandic house that was displayed on their website but she told us that was for couples on their honeymoon or other special events and that we would be staying at her grey drab house in the cellar. The room was clean and comfortable with shared bathroom facilities and we were the only people staying there but we were a little disappointed. I made the mistake of mentioning that we had visited the arctic fox museum in Sudavik – ah, my husband renovated that as well as the honeymoon house and of course I then got the whole story in minute detail. If she reads this she is a very nice friendly lady though! Later (much later!) we wandered the streets looking for somewhere good to eat and eventually settled for the Restaurant Husik and we both had burgers, chips, Dijon mustard, salad and a carafe of water 790 x 2 (£11 x 2) then back to the accommodation at 20.30. We had bought some low alcohol lagers from the supermarket before this, only 2.5%, one was Gull and the other Viking, both made us smile. We hope the Gull beer wasn’t white in colour. They were 170 ISK (£1.05) each however in the Husik they were 1000 ISK and to think they only had to walk down the road. We repacked our case and rucksack so that we could bundle them straight back in the car in the morning.
Monday 2nd June Isafjordur to Bjarkalunder
Breakfast was not included in our accommodation so we ate half a large biscuit each that we brought away from Stadur service station yesterday, followed by bananas and coffee in our room and we left at 09.00. We drove through the narrow tunnel that has passing places for us to give way to oncoming traffic – and did. Emerging the other side we were rewarded with a good view of the fjord on the way to Þingeyri along the fjord. We didn’t find much to see in the village so parked in a lay-by at the foot of BIG number 1, Hrafnseyrarheidi. Ruth continued reading her book. The weather was slightly drizzly and I started off on my penultimate Iceland BIG at 10.00. From the start there is a steep rise away from the village and after 200 metres the road is gravel as it swings to the left and a steady incline for about a kilometre then a dip for the second kilometre followed then by seven kilometres of climb, the final three kilometres consisting of hairpins and beyond the snowline. At the start of the hairpins I phoned Ruth to meet me at the top and take my photo as I approached – poser! Looking back down the valley I could see for a long distance across the fjord beyond Þingeyri. Ruth passed me on the upper reaches, slowly and carefully driving up the steep road. I was impressed by the way she tackled the final hairpin on the gravel! She was ready with the camera at the top but had to wait for a huge heavy lorry to pass. Brave these Icelanders; it must be difficult driving such a huge vehicle on a narrow and steep gravel road. The driver crunched it into gear for the downhill and left us in quiet surroundings for my photo-shoot in front of the cross and red hut on the right that marks the top. I took out all the bad weather cycle clothing from the car and asked Ruth to wait for me at the foot on the south side at Hrafnseyri. Just as well I kitted up as the road did plenty of mud-slinging at me, made worse by a rain storm. At first it was OK and I was taking photos of the high ice wall by the side of the road looking down the road to where I could see Ruth driving and carefully negotiating the curves. I must have looked like a dishevelled mountain troll by the time I met Ruth waiting down below. Relieved to be in the car we drove on along the gravelly fjord north side to a huge waterfall we could see in the distance at the end of the fjord. A few kilometres from it we could see the impressive sight and on approaching we could hear the roar of the Dynjandi waterfall. We parked the car before the side road down to the waterfall and walked the road along to the base of it, looking up at the thundering broad sweep over a 100 metre rocky scarp. I was still in my mucky troll outfit as it had to dry. Ruth took a photo of my tramp appearance as we approached the bridge over the rushing stream coming from the falls. There’s a small car park at the foot of the falls be we needed the walk. We wandered back to the car and I took off now dry cycling wet gear and we continued on over the Dynjandisheidi road climb to a desolate road junction where we found a simple sign to the right indicating Bildudalur. This road was quite difficult to drive as the gravel had almost gone and is severely pot holed. It was slow progress along the south shore of Trastanfjord to reach the town. It was a relief first of all to see the airfield runway on the side of the fjord and realise we couldn’t be far from Bildudalur. We took the side road and parked in the small town where Ruth would wait for me to complete my last cycle climb. She had a few coffees at the museum of the Bildadalur lake monster (!) and met the guide dressed in smart waistcoat and twiddling his pointed moustache. Meanwhile I was off on my last adventure to cycle the Halfdan, BIG number 4 and my grande finale.
This time it was a pleasure to cycle a smooth surface road and in fact this was the best road surface cycled in Iceland.
I took a photo of the blue pass marker at the foot of the climb indicating 12% gradient then continued along an easy steady climb in sunny weather to the top that was marked by a mast transmitter on the left hand side of the road. There are curves on the way up as the road sweeps up to the right as it approaches the higher level. I texted Ruth from the top wondering if it was possible to ride down the other side to meet at Talknafjordur but then thought better of it as we needed to save on time to reach our pre-booked hotel at Bjarkalunder later. I returned down the same way, bundled the bike back into the car and Ruth told me of her monster experience. We drove back over Halfdan, through Talknafjordur with its small port then over to Patrekfsjordur with its larger port and the largest town since Isafjordur. From here over Kleifaheidi and stopped at the top marked on the left with 5 metre high boulders erected in the shape of a man with a sword. There’s a plaque nearby describing it. From here finally down to the Bardastrond and along the coast road that would eventually lead to Bjarkalunder but not without problems between! The road as far as Brjanslaekur is a good surface and there were many cars coming the opposite way. We later found out that these had disembarked from the Snaefell and Flatey ferry at Brjanslaekur. After this place the road eventually gave way to gravel when the headland at Kerlingajordur was reached. I remarked to Ruth how similar the mountain ahead looked to Table Mountain in Cape Town but didn’t realise at the time the problem that mountain would cause us! Shortly after we found there had been a major landslide from the mountain and that road engineers were busy clearing the original road. There was now a diversion for many miles taking through traffic on to what can only be described as a dirt track among the excavation area. We wondered a couple of times if there really was a way through or if we would have to return back all the way through Isafjordur to reach Bjarkalunder. We were relieved to see it wasn’t the case as we carefully threaded our way following the road diversion signs. Eventually we reached Gufudalur marked on the map by a church and sure enough there it was at the head of a small fjord. From here through one small village and over a headland to reach the tarmac road on the final fjord north of the Reykholar peninsula. There were lorries parked here and some discussion going on and I wondered if they were talking about the state of the road ahead and if it was safe to continue. On a rise away from the fjord we came to the welcome sight of Hotel Bjarkalunder on the left. On the right of the road is a small fishing lake. We were only half an hour behind schedule but we were assured there were plenty of rooms as there weren’t many people staying. In fact Mikael Johann, the receptionist requested if we could take a larger room downstairs as we had booked a smaller upstairs room and nobody else was staying up there so it would be easier to clean tomorrow. The room was more spacious, was close to a shower etc and we wouldn’t have to lug our case up the stairs. We thanked him for the free upgrade, third time God incidence on room upgrades. We had some good conversations with him tonight and after breakfast and he gave us his email address and we ours so promised to mail him when we arrived home. We had some good pizzas this evening and went to bed before 23.00, tired after a difficult drive.
Tuesday 3rd June Bjarkalunder to Reykjavik
We enjoyed a good breakfast then I asked if we could have a bucket of warm water to wash the car windscreen and remove some of the dirt. We were misunderstood and were handed a plastic container and lid of warm water for us to take away. Thanking him for his kindness we laughed and were handed a bucket and cloth. First of all though I had to dismantle my bike and squeeze it into the zip flight bag for the airport. I wouldn’t need the bike again now, my cycling adventure was complete. First of all I cleaned the bike with the water then the car rear window as were had been driving blind from the rear except for the wing mirrors. We also cleaned the registration plates – don’t want to get arrested by keen Iceland police! The bike was bundled away and also I cleaned the car boot area then we were ready to set off at 10.30. We asked Mikael if there was anywhere nearby where we could experience a warm pool. He directed us to Reykholar and take the next right as we leave the hotel to the right. We drove onto the kidney shaped peninsula and looked for swimming but all we could find was a small indoor swimming pool then two hot tubs behind a house where outdoor bathing can be had but this wasn’t what we had in mind. We were thinking of a larger geothermal pool to bathe in, it doesn’t exist here. We went back up the road close to the hotel and took a right for Road 60 and the route south. We had a stop at very windy Budardalur, parked at the small supermarket and wandered down the road to the harbour and a tourist information office to use the loos then round the village back to the car. we bought some fruit in the supermarket and continued on to rejoin Road One again, a welcome sight to see the road indications so took a photo of it! South on Road One and a wider road we saw the turn off for Deildatunguhver and the hot springs, the biggest in Europe, pumping out at180 litres of 97 degree centigrade of water every second with billowing clouds of steam created by the mighty fissure reaching up high into the cool air. The geothermal energy runs from here through constructed pipelines to Borgranes 34km away and to Akranes 64km away. The geothermal energy also supplies surrounding greenhouses for farmers to grow plants and vegetables. During the summer months local farmers set up stalls here to sell vegetables to visitors. It’s a bit early in the season in June but there’s an honesty box if people want to take tomatoes. After many photos we continued on after this to look for somewhere to bathe but we might be going for too many miles so we were content just to have a look around Reykholt village and learn of the importance of Snorri Sturluson in Icelandic minds. He was a writer of Norse mythology and the history of Norwegian Kings. He was Icelandic but spent many years in Norway.
We retraced back to Road One, stopping on the way to see some more hot springs near a school but they weren’t impressive in a fenced off area behind buildings. We drove past a final mountain and came to Hvalfjordur and the final fjord before Reykjavik but we didn’t go round it but under it through a tunnel. The entrance for the short cut was a bit steep though – 1000 kronur - £6. A long lit tunnel brought us to the outskirts of the capital and we reached Mosfellsbaer completing our circuit if Iceland. From the exit of the tunnel we were back into busy roads just like home – very busy roads into the capital. We asked at a N1 Service Station how to get to where we needed to be for our pre-booked accommodation and were guided over a flyover – but missed it. Instead we threaded our way round less busy roads with a map of the capital and me navigating. We eventually found the street called Giljasel south east of the centre and the house number we thought – but it was wrong.
A man answered the door and called the owner who came immediately to the house and correct number opposite. She was very nice but we were a bit miffed as we were charged 400 kronur for a cleaning charge that we knew nothing about and make matters worse the two girls that arrived in from Snaefell peninsula at midnight had only been asked for 300 kronur but then that’s a handsome profit for an easy hour’s work cleaning up after us. We complained when arrived back home later but were told they had booked earlier but 1000 kronur price rise in a month is steep. Enough complaints can’t let it spoil a holiday. We unpacked and drove into Reykjavik to go and explore the city and also find somewhere to eat. We parked on the edge of the city in front of a Subway restaurant and N1 service station on Borgartun road and walked Hverfisgata, photo of Hofoi House by the waterfront where Reagan and Gorbachov had their famous peace meeting, then up to the cathedral Hallsgrimkirkja. We were really impressed with this and had some time looking around. From there we tried the restaurant Loki nearby but it was expensive and didn’t do full meals even if it advertised genuine Icelandic meals. We wandered down the street Skolavoroustigur and found a vegetarian restaurant and had lasagne each for a fairly decent price and very filling. From there we walked Laugavegur and I bought an Icelandic flag from a bookshop that I craved for to join my home collection of flags! Along to Austurstraeti and Vesturgata then we walked the coast road Saebraut, saw the Solfarid – the Sun Voyager boat sculpture – then back to the car and our accommodation. We lounged and watched TV on the big flat screen and listened to Joyce Meyer speaking on the importance of enjoying life – all for it. The other guests arrived at midnight. We leant them our kettle and Ruth had a chat with them for a while. As we weren’t travelling far tomorrow we stayed up until 01.00 then to bed.
Wednesday 4th June Reykjavik to Keflavik
We had breakfast from the kitchen that we could use then left the accommodation at 10.00 leaving the key in the combination lock box on the wall. We drove out along Bustadavegur on to the Keflavik road then took a left at Hafnarfjordur on to road 42 for the Reykjanes lunar landscape and Kleifarvatn lake along a black lava surface road. This is a deep grey lake with submerged hot springs and black sand beaches. The mountains here are ridge volcanoes and the lava formations are protected in this nature reserve. The deep and creepy lake is surrounded by wind warped lava cliffs. Legend has it that a worm like monster the size of a whale lurks below the surface but the creature is losing space ads the lake has been shrinking ever since two major earthquakes shook the area in 2000.
Shortly after we stopped at one final area of hot springs at Seltun geothermal field. The temperature below the surface here is 200 degrees centigrade and the water boils as it emerges from the ground. A borehole was sunk here to provide energy for Hafnarfjordur during the 1990’s but it exploded in 1999 and the project abandoned. There are boardwalks here around the hot springs. The steaming vents, mud pots and volcanic vents shimmer with rainbow colours from the minerals in the earth and the bad egg smell certainly left us with an impression. From here we continued south to flatter ground and the coast road and took a right for Grindavik.
We drove into the small town and parked the car at the campsite then walked to the harbour. Ruth noticed there’s a café called Bryggjan on the harbour but I left the money in the car so went back for it. We decided to buy lobster soup and at 1400 kronur each thought it a bit steep but were told we could help ourselves to a much as we wanted from the cast iron hot pots – so we did. I enjoyed two bowls of lobster and later meat soup, plenty of meat and veg in it. The café has photos and memorabilia relating to the history of the fishing industry in Grindavik. We had a walk around the streets and took a look at the harbour. We could have visited the saltfish museum but that wouldn’t thrill us so back to the car for Blue Lagoon – Blaa Ionio in Icelandic.
We really wanted to experience the Icelandic therapy of a geothermal pool and were disappointed so far as we hadn’t come across one, so we opted for the biggest and the best – just like Everest but more affordable – and we only come this way once!
We had some trouble finding the road, we were expecting to find a roundabout to the road as detailed on the map and drove down a housing estate – not here, doubled back but still no roundabout but then we noticed yet more roadworks on the edge of town, the roundabout had been dug up now it was just a small road without any indication. We took it and away from Grindavik heading north for the mountain area but the road ended at Blue Lagoon. There were many coaches, people and so many Japanese! How do they find these places!? Entry fee was a bit steep at £45 equivalent each but we had all afternoon here and so glad we had that soup earlier. We changed, deposited in lockers and put on blue wristbands that we found difficult to fasten so had to carefully twist the rubber bracelets into knots. Wow! This was good, expensive but worth it.
I read that the Blue Lagoon is one of the most famous and respected tourist attractions in Iceland. People enjoy bathing and relaxing (except Japanese, they like shouting) in the geothermal seawater for its positive effects on the skin. A visit to the spa promotes harmony between body, mind and spirit, and enables one to soak away the stresses of modern life – so the advert goes. The spa’s guests rekindle their relationship with nature, soak up the scenic beauty and enjoy breathing the clean, fresh air.
In addition to bathing in the lagoon guests have access to a sauna with a view of the lagoon, a steam bath with white walls that resemble silica mud and a cosy steam bath carved into a lava cave. A selection of spa treatments and massages are available. They take place in the lagoon, and the fresh air and natural surroundings enhance the feeling of wellness. Ah! We don’t want to go home! I was in and out of the sauna and steam bath and captivated by an Icelandic group singing in unison in the middle of the water, such beautiful voices in harmony. All this in the warm sunshine however if standing out of the 38 degree centigrade water the temperature on the upper half of the body soon feels the cold air. For skin treatment everyone can help themselves to blue-white silica mud to plaster on the face. By the sauna is a piping hot waterfall to stand under that delivers a powerful hydraulic massage, it’s like being pummelled by a troll! We enjoyed relaxing later behind a large glass screen where the sun was shining through. We did go home with a slight Icelandic suntan!
We dressed and walked out feeling as soft as a baby’s bum, took a look at the milky blue lagoon outside the entrance and a few photos then at 18.30 and were walking across the car park when it started raining. By the time we reached the car it really was torrential. People in the pool were getting wet! We had only just made it to the car, another good incident. Torrential rain at Blue Lagoon, was this another gift from above!
The rain went off after about half an hour and we cleared the windscreen and drove off heading west for the end of the peninsula. We saw the lighthouse at the western end of the peninsula among another geothermal area then drove north over the ‘Bridge between Two Continents’ according to geology, there’s a slightly increasing gap between the plates that run from here north east through the island. On through Hafnir to Keflavik and our car was coming home. We found our last hotel easily enough, taking a right and staying on the road heading for the airport. We booked in at 19.30 and arranged our lift to the airport tomorrow for 07.15. We paid for our room and relaxed for a while, Ruth made cups of tea using our mini-kettle. I stored my bike in bag at the rear of the hotel in a bike store then drove the car for the final time and alone to the airport Sixt car drop off point. First off though I had to fill with diesel and put in 8000 kronur worth to fill the tank as stipulated. This was right next to the drop off point. The car was checked, no problems found. While I was there drinking coffee and waiting for a guy from Sixt to drive me back to the hotel I saw the car being hosed down in the garage. Shortly afterwards Ruth and I walked from the hotel down into Keflavik and we were directed from a nearby shop where the nearest restaurant was. It wasn’t where we were told but then we did find a really good restaurant in Keflavik itself and had burger, chips and salad and I had a beer to celebrate the end of a fantastic holiday. Later, at 22.00 we walked back up to the Alex Hotel and crashed out at 23.00
Thursday 5th June Keflavik and home
A guy from the hotel drove us and our luggage to the airport and our flight took off on time. I bought cigarettes on the flight for Mark to pay for, a bottle of Pernod and a bottle of Ricard at the airport duty free. We arrived in Manchester a little early but typical of being back home had ¾ of an hour to wait for a train from the airport.
We were home!