Home-Style Farm Cassoulet

http://www.sfgate.com/food/recipes/detail.html?p=detail&rid=18551&sorig=qs

The recipe seems long, and there are multiple steps, but keep in mind cassoulet is simply two layers of well-flavored beans with various meats in the middle that come together to make a festive dish. You can prepare this partially ahead, then refrigerate and finish before serving. You can also vary the meats, but be sure to include sausages. The pork belly rind and ham hock give extra body to the bean broth. Also note that you don't have to soak or parboil the beans if they are high-quality and fresh. Serve this with a green salad and rustic bread.

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 pound lean pork belly, whole piece, skin on

  • 2 parsley stems

  • 1 bay leaf

  • 2 thyme sprigs

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns, bruised

  • 1 pound sturdy dried heirloom beans (see sidebar), rinsed and drained

  • 1/2 large onion, peeled but left whole and stuck with 2 cloves

  • 1 carrot, peeled and halved

  • 1 celery rib

  • 2 cloves peeled garlic

  • 1/2 smoked ham hock, about 1/2 pound

  • 1to 1 1/2 pounds duck confit (leg and thighs attached)1 to 1 1/2 pounds mild fresh link sausage, such as Italian

  • 1/2 cup canned chopped tomatoes and their juice

  • Kosher salt and black pepper

Instructions:

  1. Cut the skin away from the pork belly, leaving any fat attached to the meat. Halve the skin then roll one piece up and tie securely with cotton string; save the second piece for another use or discard.

  2. Tightly tie the parsley stems, bay leaf and thyme sprigs with butcher's string to make a bouquet garni. Put it in a large pot along with the peppercorns, beans, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, ham hock, pork belly and tied roll of skin; add water to cover by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook until the beans are soft, but still have a bit of resistance when bitten, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally and, if needed, adding more water to fully submerge beans as they cook.

  3. Drain the solids, reserving the broth. Remove the meat from the ham hock, finely chop and set aside; discard the bone. Finely chop the rolled pork skin and cut the pork belly into 1-inch chunks; set aside. Chop the onion, carrots and celery; and set aside. The recipe can be made ahead to this point. If refrigerated, rewarm beans and broth before continuing.

  4. In a frying pan over medium heat, cook the duck legs until golden, about 4 minutes per side. Remove and separate the leg and thigh; set aside. In the same pan, prick the sausages and cook, turning often, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Do not cook all the way through, as they will finish cooking with the beans. Set aside.

  5. To finish: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Put the reserved bean broth in a sauce pan, add the tomatoes and simmer to blend the flavors. Taste, and add salt and pepper as desired.

  6. Gently stir the ham hock meat, chopped onion, carrot, celery and pork skin into the beans. Spoon about one-third of the bean mixture in a large Dutch oven or other large, deep casserole dish, then layer, in turn, the cubed pork belly, the sausages and duck confit. Cover with the remaining bean mixture. Pour just enough of the reserved bean broth to cover, reserving the rest to baste as needed.

  7. Place the dish in the oven and cook for 30 minutes at 450 degrees; lower the heat to 375 degrees and continue to cook about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the top of the dish is crusty and golden and thick bubbles continue to appear around the edges. During baking, baste with the remaining broth if the beans appear to be drying out, and break the crusty top and push it into the juices 3 or 4 times.

  8. Serve hot directly from the casserole.

  9. Wine pairing: The full flavors work with red Rhone blends like Cotes-du-Rhone or Crozes-Hermitage. Try the 2008 Emmanuel Darnaud Les Trois Chenes Crozes-Hermitage (about $30).

Nutrition Information:

  • Per serving: 445 calories, 27 g protein, 29 g carbohydrate, 24 g fat (9 g saturated), 87 mg cholesterol, 309 mg sodium, 11 g fiber.

    • Course: Main Dish

    • Yields: Serves 8-10

Reader Reviews

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by jclen

Great Cassoulet

Cassoulet is a regular menu item at nearby Bistro Vida in Menlo Park. I’ve tried it there several times and liked it. Recently my turn to host my men’s cooking club (inspired by http://articles.sfgate.com/2009-03-22/food/17214756_1_napa-valley-shafer-vineyards-long-vineyards ) was coming up, so when this rather complete recipe appeared in the Sunday SFChron a couple months ago, I decided to go for it. On a trip to the coast for other reasons, I stopped by Phipps Ranch and bought 2 pounds of their Great Northern Beans—enough for doing the “Home-Style Farm Cassoulet” twice. I also discovered that Phipps regularly has about 30 different types of beans—they’ve found their niche, supplying local restaurants and markets with unusual bean varieties. My idea was to first make a cassoulet for the family as a test, but I never got around to that. So now, Saturday morning, I went to Draeger’s in Menlo Park and bought the duck, ham hock, pork belly and fresh link Italian sausage—no problem. This is the first time I’ve ever bought duck. It was Muscovy Duck Legs from Grimaud Farms of California. Next I restocked my India Tellicherry peppercorns at Penzeys Spices in Menlo Park and also bought a bag of their Turkish Bay Leaves. This store is a fantastic resource for cooks. I had seen an earlier recipe in the Chron—“Slightly Short Cut Cassoulet” in which the meat is limited to ham bones and pancetta. What struck me was that that recipe called for 2 pounds of beans. I assume in that recipe the extra beans are meant to make up for the lesser amount of meat. In any case, I decided to stick to the 1 pound called for in this recipe. Monday morning I did the stovetop cooking of the beans, about 3 hours total effort (2 hours cooking). The beans were still appropriately cruchy. Then Tuesday afternoon I started on the final phase. Before frying the duck, I pricked the skin with a pointed knife to help the fat escape to the frying pan—same idea as for the sausage. After frying, separating the duck legs from the thighs was a little tricky because the prolific grease made my hands and knife so slippery. I put the ingredients into a large ceramic casserole dish, and then into the oven at 3:30 pm. About 4:00 I reduced the oven temperature as specified and also started baking (for 1 hour) some halved butternut squash for a soup. I periodically checked the cassoulet, punched down the surface and added water (I didn’t have enough broth). About 6:00 I turned off the oven but left the dish in the oven so it would stay warm. By 6:30, the appointed time for my friends to arrive, I had made the soup, prepared a leafy salad, and was ready to relax. OK, so as we usually do we spent about an hour devouring the cheese and crackers, olives and nuts while we consumed a couple bottles of Thomas Fogarty Monterey 2009 Guwerztraminer. About 7:30 we gathered at the dining table and began with the butternut soup. So it was nearly 8:00 pm when the cassoulet was served. Everyone thought it was pretty good, and indeed the 6 of us consumed all but a large spoonful of it (the recipe is stated to serve 8-10), but my neglect for the past hour and a half resulted in it being a little dry. OK, next time I’ll be a more careful. With the cassoulet, in addition to the salad, we had a Frati Horn 2009 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir and also a Carol Shelton Rockpile Vineyard 2007 Petite Sirah. And of course throughout the evening non-stop conversation as usual on politics and health care (ours) as well as food, sex and religion.

12/7/2011 8:06:30 PM