Hiking in the Polish Bieszczady

View from Szeroki Wierch to Tarnica - photo Fergal Hingerty

I left Rzeszow where I was staying, travelling south-east for a little over two hours, close to the Ukrainian border, to the Polish Bieszczady massif. This mountain range is split between Ukraine, Slovakia and Poland, the highest peak (in Ukraine) called Pikuy (1,408m, P613m). However my target was the highest point on the Polish side - the mountain called Tarnica (1,346m, P494m).

I parked at the car park in Ustrzyki Gorne and paid my 20 zloty parking fee. I heaved my backpack onto my shoulders in the hot sun and walked past the small tourist shops along the road which was the start of the red trail. After around 500 metres I came upon the entrance to the National Park and paid over my 9 zloty for entry.

From this point I headed into the cool embrace of tree-shade. And so the ascent began. The beginning of the red trail was 656 metres in altitude.  It follows a path through the forest, gradually ascending with a few minor ups and downs to a height of around 1,100 metres where it leaves the trees. This section is quite natural with a few small bridges and wooden walkways where there is wet ground or streams.

Sweltering in the sun outside the forest, I tackled the 200 or so wooden steps that bring you to the first vantage point, with great views in all directions and a few seats to soak it all in. This made the effort certainly worthwhile. Beautiful green tree-lined hills could be seen to the west, north and south.

Then I tackled the ridge south-east of this point, once again with a few hundred steps up to the top. It is here the view really expands. This is at a height of 1,234 metres and the initial long climb is over. From here the vista along the track that follows the ridge to the next three summits - Szeroki Wierch, Tarnazika and finally Tarnica can be seen.

The ascent here is not so steep, and I fairly quickly got to the first summit - Szeroki Wierch 1,268m, which is marked by a small pile of rocks and a stone marker. I continued on with a small descent and then a climb up to the next summit Tarnizika 1315m, P30m.  Now the full unique shape of Tarnica was in front. Again a small pile of stones marks this summit. A steep descent leads to a track crossroads at the col between the two peaks.

Here on the north side of Tarnica large steps and eventually rocks on the shorter yellow trail leads to a flattish summit area. A small sign shows the summit height (1,346 Metres), with a very large metal cross as well. This flat area was busy and the view in all directions was wonderful.

The nearby ridge which leads to the summit of Krzemien 1,335m looked tempting, but that would have meant a drop of 200 metres, and then a stiff ascent. Sadly I was pushed for time. I dropped down to the small col between Tarnizka and Tarnica and began my descent west down the rough steps along the blue trail this time. After a while I rested on a small plateau with seats before pushing into the cool shade of the forest.

Eventually the track emerged at the small village of Wołosate. I started to head down the road towards the car park at Ustrzyki Gorne. Luckily, as I was hiking, I got a lift, thereby shaving 5km off the end part of the trek. This blue section is a boring road walk, so I was lucky to get a lift on such a hot day. The walk I did was around 14 kilometres (without the lift 18.5km), with an ascent of 760 metres.  It took me a little over five hours.

As for Krzemien and some of the other peaks in this area, I would defintely like to return to explore further and climb them. I have climbed other peaks in the south of Poland but the Bieszczady is one of my favourite places in the country. I would highly recommend this area. There are many tourist towns and places to stay in the area as it is very popular with Polish people.