Peak-bagging in the Australian Capital Territory

A distant Mount Gingera 1859m, P369m, with a light dusting of snow—seen across Namadgi NP from Gabramoola Hill - photo Ashley Watson

I am happy to concede at the outset that the Australian Capital Territory (ACT) is hardly a peak-bagger's go-to destination.  In fact, the best route for climbing our highest mountain, Bimberi Peak 1913m, P659m, actually comes in from the New South Wales side, where only the final meandering, bushbashing/bushwhacking ascent up the state-territory border involves crossing into the ACT.

This brings us immediately to our first 'list' in this little review: State and Territory High Points of Australia, a list of eight peaks (nine if you are a purist) that relatively few people have completed.  Bimberi is one of the easier peaks on the list to bag. Mount Kosciuszko 2228m, P2228m (Australia's highest mountain) is the easiest by far (okay, in summer), with Mounts Woodroffe/Ngarutjaranya 1434m, P949m (South Australia) and Zeil 1531m, P1322m (Northern Territory) at the other end of the spectrum involving major logistical undertakings.  In between, you have Mounts Ossa 1617m, P1617m (Tasmania), Bogong 1986m, P1233m (Victoria), Meharry 1249m, P839m (Western Australia) and Bartle Frere 1611m, P1316m (Queensland).  It's a challenging list that immediately puts the ACT and Australia on the global peak-bagging map,

Many foreign travellers are actually not even aware that we Aussies have a federal capital territory (as the ACT was once known), or even that Canberra is our capital (no, it's not Sydney).  So, at this point, it's worth taking a quick look at the history of the ACT, especially because it very nicely leads to an appreciation of the next list in this bagging review.  After the Commonwealth of Australia was proclaimed in 1901 (and after over 60,000 years of indigenous occupation), one of the first tasks was to choose a location for a new capital territory.  Once done, the next job was to determine its border with the surrounding state of New South Wales. The task was given to a small team of surveyors, one of whom Percy Sheaffe is today commemorated in the name of the list of our highest peaks.  Scotland has its Munros, England has the Wainwrights, Tassie's (Tasmania) has got the Abels and, well, the Australian Capital Territory has the 'Percys'.  Determining the border of ACT/NSW was all about water.  The ACT had to have an independent, clean and reliable water supply, which means that much of the border today follows the crest of surrounding mountain ranges (Bimberi lying to the southwest in the Brindabella Range).  Most of our water flows down from these ranges through the magnificent Namadgi National Park which, covering about two-thirds of the ACT, contains almost all of the 68 Percys, defined as being mountains of at least 1000m in elevation.  I think it's true to say that relatively few people have completed this list.  When I climb obscure peaks around these parts, I'm often prone to muse that "less people have climbed this mountain than have climbed Mount Everest". Hard to prove, but it sounds good, nevertheless.

While we're bragging about things, another random fact is that, by my count, the ACT has 55 peaks higher than every mountain in the British Isles - particularly notable when one considers the flat, expansive, dry terrain seen in typical tourist images of this 'sunburnt country'.  The stark fact is that many ACT peaks are seriously difficult to bag (explaining my second 'relatively few' brag above).  Namadgi NP abounds in steep terrain, dense bush (especially with the regrowth after the devastating 2019/20 bushfires), and enormous gardens of massive boulders.  Many routes involve over 10km of tough, slow bushbashing and scrambling.  Most of the higher Percys have no trail.  Huge fallen trees abound and a few of the peaks require rope skills for summiting.  On the other hand, taking one's time and spending a couple of nights camping high up in the park is one of us local bushwalkers' greatest pleasures.  Some of the peaks are capped by charming old 'trigs', reminders of our surveying past.  In winter we typically get a few big dumps of snow to make the higher country all the more appealing (and challenging).

Other challenges and hazards?  In the warmer months, venomous snakes are quite commonly seen (I counted seven around here last year).  Higher up, it's mostly shy copperheads (different from the American variety); tiger snakes are typically seen close to creeks and rivers; red-bellied blacks are widespread; and brown snakes (short-tempered!) are most commonly encountered closer to urban areas (notably the second-most venomous snake in the world, after taipans).  The advice is to be 'snake smart': wear long pants and gaiters when off-trail, carry a compression bandage, and consider taking a personal locator beacon.  And don't worry, our North American brethren seem to be okay with bears; we're okay with snakes!

Other than snakes, the only things that I am remotely wary about are falls or being hit by something falling, i.e. a tree/limb or rock (especially after the fires).  Extremes of weather/temperature also, of course, need to be considered.  Bushfires can generally be foreseen, although bushwalkers do occasionally get caught out.  Clean, delicious potable water is commonly available from high mountain streams but it is good to carry a few litres for a full-day walk, especially in late summer or during a drought.  In case of real emergency, call 000 (phone reception in Namadgi is only reliable on the peaks) or activate your PLB.  Purchase travel insurance before you leave home.

There's far more to our wildlife than dangerous snakes.  For starters, the ACT absolutely abounds (excuse the pun) with kangaroos.  You will surely come across them in Canberra's many nature reserves, while the more open areas of Namadgi have mobs of a hundred or more.  Wallabies are timid and more solitary, but are commonly seen off-trail, as well as along the roadsides in Namadgi early in the day.  If you are lucky, you may see emus, especially in the lower Cotter area and in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, where you could also see platypus.  Sadly, there are no longer any koalas around here.  Our birdlife is bright and noisy, with all sorts of psittacines (parrots, rosellas, cockatoos, corellas) to greet you on or off the trail, as well as nature's greatest mimicker, the lyrebird (commonly heard but not seen). 

So, please visit the ACT and our national capital, Canberra (population 450,000).  Most foreign visitors are either coming for business or study, but many do come to see our national monuments and institutions (picture a smaller version of Washington DC).  Within Canberra itself there are around a hundred lesser peaks from which to choose a bag from your hotel before breakfast (I've added most of them to the Peakbagger website). On the weekend, you can join as a guest our fabulous Canberra Bushwalking Club for a longer walk and maybe a peak to start a new list.  Or you can join me!  If you're going alone, you will definitely need to rent a car.  Most trailheads can be reached without 4WD, the main exceptions being anything along Mt Franklin Road (where you'll pass by Piccadilly Circus!) and down the far end of Boboyan Road in the wet.  

In case you're wondering, here are a few of my favourites: the long loop (steep, but easy bushbashing) that takes in Tidbinbilla Mountain 1617m, P497m, Tidbinbilla Peak 1561m, P21m, The Pimple 1391m, P174m, and Johns Peak 1442m, P12m; also Mount Gingera 1859m, P369m; and, of course, Bimberi Peak 1913m, P659m.  Be prepared if you want something really tough.  I  climbed up to Split Rock 1560m, P80m (and a Percy) in snow the other day - it was a reminder of how testing and unforgiving our wonderful mountainous backyard can be.

Ashley Watson