North Atlantic
In The North Atlantic Anneke has joined me to sail Stamper back to Europe. Needless to say how much I enjoy her company. She challenges me out of my comfort zone, is fiercely fair and has an instinct for sailing and boats. I can easily leave Stamper in her care when she is on watch; if need be she will call me and fair is fair: she announced she would do that often as she does not expect to learn Stampers behaviour in just a couple of months.
It looked like an easy ocean. That impression gathered from initial obeservation of the gribfiles is deceiving. Our chosen strategy was to choose the altitude at which to turn from Bermuda to the Azores based on about 20 knots of Westerlies. The assumption is that that line is more or less stable. Well: our westerlies were far north and out of reach, except for that one nasty low that brought us 35 knots of winds. Next week a new depression will pass with 45 knots of wind about 250 miles south of us! We expect 7,5 m waves on tuesday crashing on the outer pier of our tiny Porto las Lajes. Already now, with no swell, Stamper is riding in its berth like a wild horse tied down by 8 ropes and three shock breakers on the lines.
Below are some shots of the 'Portugese Man of War". We saw millions of them sailing their own silent paths over the oceans. They seem to each respect a comfort zone of at least three meters.
On our last day sailing to Flores, a BIG bay whale surfaced right next to Stampers side. A minute later she jjoined her mother about 100 meter away. Mother was a huge personality, at least20 m long. My guess was a blue whale. They certainly did not have the features of a Humpback or sperm whale.
Flores is a wonderful green island. Lots of cattle and well kept farmhouses everywhere. We did not see much of the inland yet, hidden in the clouds, suspecting 5 crater lakes below us. Santa Cruz a bit east from our place. There the fishing harbour immediatly lifts the trawlers out of the water and the parking place is the berth. In the water, ships would not last very long with waves rolling in unimpeded in any westerly swell. Off the beaten track, few ferries or cruiseships, only a small airport. Tourists are mostly the few cruisers passing by. We are looking forward to staying here at least five days and let the storm pass by. Deesse, a Dutch sailing couple we met in Richards bay and now our neighbour, allows us to borrow their rental car.
Our marina: Porto das Lajes
Stamper will need some repairs. The mainsail is old and the stitching needs to be redone, that will have to wait till Horta as no sailmaker is available here. The waterseal on the rudder axis needs replacement as now water seeps in and needs cleaning every 6 hours of sailing. A bit too much. Further the engine needs a new olit filter and oil and we have to confirm that a leak in the watercooling is indeed where we think it is and replace a piece of the hose there. The battens of the main require again attention as they easily come out of their pockets and the connection to the mast is wearing out. We will have to find a temporary fix to prevent the main from losing its grip on the mastcarts. Stamper is showing signs of her 24 years of age.
A day trip to Mosteiro, 30 May 2016
