China, Bejing

Uniforms, checking uniforms checked by secret police checked by party members in civil cloths. We get the impression that a large part of the population is involved in this schizophrenic system, only visible at certain moments.

When we pass through the three levels of security surrounding Tienamin square we see it happening. In the days coming up to 1 October, the birthday of communist China, we see party officials in conspicuous red jackets demanding shopkeepers to put out their still shrink wrapped communist flags. The shopkeepers drag their heels until the last moment. In the Hutongs (the small scale living areas) we see urban police demanding street stalls to be cleared. If not immediately followed they call the normal police and things are done a lot more damaging to the street wares and people get angry at the officials. Needless to say that one example is enough and everyone else in the Hutong quickly clears his wares from the street, only to return by the end of the day and most things seem to be back to business as usual.

Thee 'glorious Chines Revolution' is pompously celebrated at Tienamin square.

A closer look, reveals however a grim reality: fire extinguishers for anyone who wants to 'disturb the peace' by setting himself on fire.

With these guards can be set-up in minutes to sequester parts of Tienamin square and isolate protesters.

A lone person sat at least 10 minutes lost in thoughts on the square. Thinking back 25 years?

The communist have used the engrained power stucture of Chines emperors to control 20th century Chinese. The one big difference: communist lack the subtlety to impress with architecture, decorum and style.

In a park people have their own way of expression: music (as was very common in Cuba), dance and Tai Chi.

Any group activity in public is however scrutinised by police. When they get too friendly with foreigners, like here, some party member steps forward and 'corrects' the error.

The teahouse that was a stage for a well performed scam: a friendy invitation to a cup of tea from some friendly Chinese ladies costs us 560 Yuan (60 Euro's). We decided to see it as a payment for a private theater performance.

A more elaborate form of rikshaw. Most of these are electric as are the bikes and mopeds. You have to be really careful as you do not hear them coming.

This is a sewing machine

Art is abundant, cheap and sometimes very good.

The great wall of China is at times very steep.

But even here, you are being watched!

a bit phobic?

Chinese have a fetish for stones.

This looked like a coral snake to us.

Our hostel in Bejing, quite comfortable.

The transport means of the art and antique dealers on the market are kept well organized by the officials. Control, control.

We sense tension from the officials, likely heightened by the protests in HongKong and the upcoming anniversary of the state. In the streets and metro people keep their heads down, little laughing or smiling is seen and clothes are not sticking out. Many years of communism seems to have drilled down the message that sticking out is dangerous.

Completely opposite is the experience in the 798 art district. A big poche area in and old industrial quarter now the home of artists and international galleries linked to Barcelona galleries and the rest of the world and catering to the rich elite of China. We see people dressed in designer clothes and artists that have their own individual clothing style. The art is surprisingly good and in many cases openly critical of the ruling party. Nobody is declaring this out of bound, on the contrary; big prices are asked and paid, though still cheap compared to Europe. We see a very modern set of chinaware, each piece unique for a very affordable price. If you want such a thing, here is the place to buy! We grudingly concede that a boat is not a place to store nice pieces of ceramics. In 10 years time prices will not be comparable anymore.

Why does the ruling elite allow this while beating down on the common people? We speculate there is no unity among the rulers, many of whom may see this as a learning curve to exit from a dead-end street? China may change more quickly than most people think.

Obviously China has changed considerably already. Electric bikes and electric moped/lorries are the majority. The west has to catch up here! People have their businesses and poverty seems to be a rare exception, though obviously people with disabilities are hidden from view. Wheel chair access is unknown. Family and village ties are strong, even in a city like Bejing. People are supported within those groups.

The forbidden city is well maintained and demonstrates a engrained power structure based on impressing power on common people through architecture, large scale ceremonies and isolation of the higher classes. The communist regime has built on these same principles with one big deviation: their architecture lacks the beauty and breathes harshness and inaccessibility.

So far after five days in China: we see a country full of contradictions, hidden conflicts and tensions. We imagine the rulers are truly afraid of an uprising among the masses and are desperately seeking ways to a future where they still hold power.