I have some experiences which made me want to know what diversity in clothing and fashion means.
Firstly, when I went to the shopping mall with a friend of mine who wanted to buy a gift to her boyfriend, I noticed that there were few options of the store for men than for women. So I’m just curious what made the situation.
Secondly, when I was in elementary school, there was a rule about school uniforms in winter that boys were allowed to wear long sweatpants over their uniform pants, but girls were forbidden to wear pants or tights. I thought that’s literally not fair, and it didn’t make any sense. From those experiences, I have come to have interests in the differences and I would like to look at what exactly made those situation. I’m not really sure but I guess those situation are strongly connected with the historical backgrounds. People had been wearing kimonos which were unisex from 平安時代, and it has been changing with the times.
School uniforms are familiar for most Japanese and it has a long history. Thus, I'm going to focus on school uniforms and clarify the needs and effects of them from historical background.
When I was a high school student, school rules required me to wear skirts. But I felt very inconvenient about it. It was cold in winter, and the skirt was in the way when I rode my bicycle. Uniforms, not only skirts, restrict students' freedom of expression, and their functionality is not suited to the current climate. I had always wondered why only students had to wear uniforms at school and why schools needed uniforms. Therefore, I will look into the reasons why uniforms were introduced and why the uniform system remains in place to this day from a historical perspective.
According to KANKO, one of a leading manufacture of school uniforms, the first school uniforms showed up about 150 years ago. Uniforms have changed with the times, and it seems that each era has its own design and dress.
Gakushuin was created as a school for children of the Imperial Family and noble families*, and the school adopted the tsume collar uniform.
*Privileged people who existed in Japan from the Meiji era to the early Showa era.
With the growing trend to actively introduce European culture, some schools introduced Western-style clothing for girls as well. However, thereafter, wearing a hakama became the norm.
Sailor uniforms were adopted at Heian High School for Girls (now Heian Jogakuin) in Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture. Some students were attracted by this uniform and applied to the school.
As the wartime regime progressed, boys were required to wear the kokumin-gai (national uniform). The kokumin-gi began to double as school uniforms, with fewer items such as the Tsumellia collar. For women, the standard uniform was a monpe.
In the postwar period, the stand-up collar uniform for boys and the sailor uniform for girls were revived as school uniforms.
For girls, there were also variations such as "one-piece" and "jumper-skirt" uniforms.
The use of synthetic fibers, which had made great strides with economic growth, made the uniforms strong and durable.
For the first time in Japan, blazer (suit-style) school uniforms are being introduced. Most of them were plain and of a single color, navy blue.
With the rise of the student movement, there was a temporary movement to liberalize uniforms, and some schools in urban areas abolished them.
The deformed school uniforms worn by the cheering squads gradually became popular.
The "tsuppari" culture was at its peak, partly due to the influence of TV dramas and cartoons, and "long-run," "short-run," and "bon-ton" styles were all the rage for boys. Girls also wore short jackets and long skirts that covered the ankles.
Blazer uniforms with tartan check skirts became popular at private girls' high schools in Tokyo.
The blazer uniform was later adopted by many schools, partly as a response to the deformed student uniforms.
With the spread of blazers, uniforms, which used to be mostly navy blue, are now available in red, green, camel, and other color variations.
In addition, DC-brand uniforms*, which emphasize fashion and are designed by top designers, have also been introduced in order to emphasize the school's unique characteristics.
Unique seifuku fashion, in which students wore their seifuku out of uniform, was all the rage.
The standard style for boys was to wear pants with the waist down, while for girls, extremely short skirts, oversized cardigans, and loose socks were the norm.
For the first time in Japan, uniforms made of recycled PET material have been adopted at junior high schools in Nagano Prefecture. Uniforms are now required to respond to new needs such as consideration for the global environment.
As the fashion for loose-fitting uniforms came to an end, more and more people began to favor subdued designs, and neat designs and suit-like uniforms were on the rise.
Navy blue blazers and pastel patterned bottoms are now more common.
The method of determining the design of uniforms has also changed, with more and more designs being determined by popular vote by students.
Design variations will become even more varied. Coordinating hoodies and knit items are also being seen.
Skirts are now knee-length, longer than before, and the style has changed to a sports mix, combining short socks, sneakers, and backpacks.
Girls' slacks, etc., which had been around since the late 1990s, began to spread, and in the 2020s, changes such as blazers with unisex designs that could be freely changed in the front, tie and ribbon options, or no-tie styles were introduced.
A high school student (female to men)
A high school student felt "not like girls" from an early age, and when he was in ward junior high school, the skirts of their uniforms were painful. The gym uniforms had different designs for boys and girls, and when he wore the boys' one, the teacher told him it was uncomfortable and that he should take it off. In high school, he went to evening school(定時制) that did not have uniforms.
Transgender (female to men)
When he was a student, he had a uniform of skirts; 30 years ago, the term gender identity disorder was unheard of around him. There was no such thing as the Internet. He thought that he was the only one, that he couldn't tell anyone, and that he couldn't live if anyone knew. The reaction of those around him was cold. It was a small school space with no escape. It was not an environment in which he could talk about it. He didn't remember wearing the skirted school uniforms that he had no choice but to wear, except for the pain he felt.
As one of the leading uniform manufacturers in Japan, KANKO proposes a variety of items and designs to schools to help them respect the diverse sexuality of their students, while staying close to the atmosphere of the school and the sensibilities of the students who attend.
The concept is "Uniforms of Choice / Diversity
All items can be selected regardless of gender
Slacks and skirts with the same check pattern
Blazer style with less gender difference in appearance
Slacks style to be standardized
Standardizing the slacks style regardless of gender
Blazers designed for both men and women with a choice of frontal fit
I found out that there were two different types of gender-less school uniforms, one is selective and the other is unified. They both are the uniform style regardless of gender, and I really think that’s a good idea, it is interesting to me that they are completely opposite. When I heard about genderless uniforms, all I could think of was selective uniforms. Then, I got interested in the background story of the unified uniform, which is standardized slacks style at 姫路市立山陽中学校.
What was the most interesting to me was that students' voices brought the chance of their uniform. Because of new movements in their surrounding schools to introduce blazers, they asked their school to change their uniforms, and then school started discussing the review including the parents of PTA. The uniform was standardized after many criticisms were raised about the inconvenience of skirts and the lack of functionality of the uniforms of the time, which were not in keeping with the times through the discussion. The principal of the school said that there is an atmosphere where it is difficult to express being a sexual minority due to a lack of the understanding of society. When I was in junior high school, I told my teacher the unfairness of the rule of school uniforms between boys and girls, but the answer was that we can’t do anything because it’s a tradition. The real problem is there are still many teachers who are conservative, and that’s exactly why society has a lack of diversity. This story made me realize that schools need to be flexible enough to listen to their students and students also need to be proactive in voicing what they notice and what they are concerned about.
Uniforms have their good and bad sides. Uniforms sometimes restrict students' freedom, but they can also be a tool to enhance a sense of unit. While I am in favor of the idea of uniforms, but the movement to incorporate diversity in uniforms should be spread nationwide.
KANKO(2022) カンコー学生服・制服の歴史, retrieved August 14, 2022 from 学生服・制服の歴史|カンコー博物館 (kanko-gakuseifuku.co.jp)
東京新聞(2020)江戸川区の制服「選択制にして」江戸川区の高校生が区長に1万1000千人分の署名提出 男女別で苦しむことないように, retrieved August 14, 2022 from江戸川区立中の制服「選択制にして」 区内高校生が区長に1万1000人分の署名提出 男女別で苦しむことないように | 東京すくすく | 子育て世代がつながる ― 東京新聞 (tokyo-np.co.jp)
PRIDE JAPAN(2020) 学校での制服の選択制を求める声や男女別の登校への批判の声が高まっています, retrieved August 14, 2022 from 学校での制服の選択制を求める声や、男女別登校への批判の声が高まっています | Magazine for LGBTQ+Ally - PRIDE JAPAN (outjapan.co.jp)
nippon.com(2022) , 女子の制服に「スラックス」定着しつつある選択肢…宮城の県立高校1/4が導入,retrieved August 20, 2022 from女子の制服に「スラックス」定着しつつある選択肢…宮城の県立高校1/4が導入 | nippon.com
KANKO(2022) LGBTQをはじめとする多様な性に配慮した制服づくり, retrieved September 4, 2022 fromLGBTQをはじめとする多様な性に配慮した制服づくり(ジェンダーレス制服)|SDGs|企業情報|カンコー学生服 (kanko-gakuseifuku.co.jp)