Cassel, Carnaval de Paques

Carnaval Day 'Lundi de Paques' (Easter Monday)

For those of us who rise early to participate in the 'Réveil en tambours (The drum wake up)', the day starts very early. The first drums are heard around 05:00 as hardcore Carnaval goers begin to arrive direct from the previous days Carnaval.

Once we are dressed and faces suitably painted, we walk up the cobbled street towards the meeting point in the square where at 06:00 the 'Tombour Major (Drum Major)' puts on his distinctive hat, hushes the crowd, blows his whistle and we are off.

The crowd begins to funnel into the narrow streets, the atmosphere building to the beat of the drums. Those without drums use pots and pans, those with neither just walk to the rhythm.

Drinks are shared, friends meet. Cafe 'La Botte de Paille' provides a traditional pit stop. Once in the bar, Punch and Diabolo Flamand are served and the trumpeters lead the first renditions of the distinctive Carnaval Giant's song (De Reuzelied) with its old Flemish lyrics 'Keer-re u e's om Reuze-kom' (turn Giant turn). The song will be repeatedly sung and played throughout the day, forming an hypnotic backdrop to the rest of the proceedings and will continue to playing in everyone's heads for days to come.

The organised early morning crowd begins to disperse into the various bars as latecomers arrive to add to the growing colourful throng. Now it's time to meet up in the first 'Chapelle' of the day.

The rest of the day is spent 'toing and froing' between Chapelles and Bars, trying not to miss Les grosses têtes or the wonderful Four Merveilleux as they tour the town along with the now awakened Giants.

As the evening approaches everyone keeps their eye on the watch for the final act, the 'Rentrée des Géants' (return of the Giants) where the Giants process along 'Rue de Bergues' towards the Church and then descend into the square accompanied by the local Fire Brigade carrying burning torches.

The band plays the Reuzelid non-stop as Papa and Mama Reuze dance in circles encouraging the crowd to do the same, but at the same time time moving towards them with a hint of menace. Finally time comes for Reuze MaMa to retire, leaving Reuze Papa to complete the final dance, feigning sleep two or three times, only to be revived with cries from the crowd, until finally he topples slowly backwards and is taken away to be laid to rest for the year.