From The Dunes

Flat surf. – No fun.

Beach deserted, no one around.

The softly-swishing, susurrating sound of wavelets

Sliding lazily-gentle over sand,

Retreating gently in soothing rhythm

With the swaying palm-leaves barely moving

In zephyrs from the on-shore breeze.

No booming crash of storm-tossed seas,

Breaking thunderous walls of sound

And spuming wave-crests flying wild

Like wind-flung hair.

Thoughts turn to summer gone

When crowds thronged beach and rode the waves.

Somnolent bakers sprawled on towels

Bodies glistening with beaded sweat

While children cried with glee

As sand sang between running toes.

Out beyond the breakers, we’d sat board-riding

Legs dangling, rising and falling with the swell

Eyes alert for promising sets.

They come. Seen from the distance a set of three.

Watch them rise, then paddle shore-wards

Hands digging deep and thrusting back.

Claim the wave and stand erect

Gleaming skin reflecting light.

Smoothly sliding, standing, speeding

Down the face as wave builds steeply.

Gather pace and curving,g turning

Balance all that keeps from falling.

Dolphins join the joy of surfing

And surf beside the boarders riding.

Bullet shapes so sleek and fast

Effortless oneness with the waves.

Almost hear their joyous laughter,

They dive and disappear from sight.

The sound of surf builds in my ear

As wave builds to curved claw of water overarching.

Duck my head and ride the tube

As salt-laden spray fills the air.

Out of the tube and down the face

As shore looms fast and rocks ahead.

Time to leave, so up I turn

Till board and I fly through the air

And part – no longer pair.

Sail through the air, enjoy the thrill

Till in the water landing, and still

The board and I are yet connected

Leg-rope pulled taut with suck of wave but board undented.

Ride the board and paddle gently

To wait for more – just wave and me.

Muted thunder of the surf-beat

Wind-blown crests of breaking waves.

Churning sand in wave-sucked water

Dumping those who body-surf.

I lie out beyond the breakers

Legs dangling, board-riding, watching - waiting.