From The Dunes
Flat surf. – No fun.
Beach deserted, no one around.
The softly-swishing, susurrating sound of wavelets
Sliding lazily-gentle over sand,
Retreating gently in soothing rhythm
With the swaying palm-leaves barely moving
In zephyrs from the on-shore breeze.
No booming crash of storm-tossed seas,
Breaking thunderous walls of sound
And spuming wave-crests flying wild
Like wind-flung hair.
Thoughts turn to summer gone
When crowds thronged beach and rode the waves.
Somnolent bakers sprawled on towels
Bodies glistening with beaded sweat
While children cried with glee
As sand sang between running toes.
Out beyond the breakers, we’d sat board-riding
Legs dangling, rising and falling with the swell
Eyes alert for promising sets.
They come. Seen from the distance a set of three.
Watch them rise, then paddle shore-wards
Hands digging deep and thrusting back.
Claim the wave and stand erect
Gleaming skin reflecting light.
Smoothly sliding, standing, speeding
Down the face as wave builds steeply.
Gather pace and curving,g turning
Balance all that keeps from falling.
Dolphins join the joy of surfing
And surf beside the boarders riding.
Bullet shapes so sleek and fast
Effortless oneness with the waves.
Almost hear their joyous laughter,
They dive and disappear from sight.
The sound of surf builds in my ear
As wave builds to curved claw of water overarching.
Duck my head and ride the tube
As salt-laden spray fills the air.
Out of the tube and down the face
As shore looms fast and rocks ahead.
Time to leave, so up I turn
Till board and I fly through the air
And part – no longer pair.
Sail through the air, enjoy the thrill
Till in the water landing, and still
The board and I are yet connected
Leg-rope pulled taut with suck of wave but board undented.
Ride the board and paddle gently
To wait for more – just wave and me.
Muted thunder of the surf-beat
Wind-blown crests of breaking waves.
Churning sand in wave-sucked water
Dumping those who body-surf.
I lie out beyond the breakers
Legs dangling, board-riding, watching - waiting.