Rack
So like many new or recently built homes, my TV and networking cable box is in the Master Bedroom closet.
The goal of this project is to move my networking equipment from the closet to two standard 4RU racks, using an existing bookcase.
I wanted to build a 4x6 foot closet in my attic, with appropriate permits and a separate circuit breaker. However, the all in quote was for $5K. So, I thought I would go a lower cost route.
Bookcase Dimensions:
Inside Width = 34-1/2inches
Inside Depth = 15-1/2 inches (less 3inches for hinges, 12-1/2inches for rack)
Middle Shelf Height = 8-1/2inches
Bottom Shelf Height = 9inches
Magnet on Bottom Shelf = 1inch x 3 inches - centered
Door Hinge: width = 3/4inch, depth = 3inches, height = 3/4inches
Rack Dimensions:
1 RU = 1.75inches (44.45mm)
3 holes - 9.5mm
center of top hole is 5/8 (15.9mm), center of next hole 5/8 (15.9mm), and 3rd hole is 1/2
Height = 4RU = (4 * 1.75) = 7 inches [177.8mm] (NavePoint 4U is 7.7inches, 195.6mm)
Width = 19 inches (482.6mm)
Opening = 17.75 (450.85mm)
Center hole spacing = 465mm center to center hole
Depth = normal is 36 inches (short depth is 15inches or less)
Parts (maximum of 12-1/2 inch depth):
2x NavePoint 4U Vertical Rack Rail Pair DIY Kit with Hardware, Black, Amazon, $13.25
2x NETGEAR 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Plus PoE Switch (JGS524PE) - with 12 x PoE @ 100W, Rackmount, Amazon, $199
Patch Panel:
10x 6-inch Patch Cables, Amazon, $13.48
Screws and Washers, Amazon, $3.92
1x2 Birch or other hardwood
Raspberry Pi Holder, Monoprice, $14.99
Future
PDU
Step 1. Build Bracket
I am not going to give woodworking directions. I am sure you can do better.
The equipment in the rack is going to be very heavy. So, a very stable bracket is required. I think the keys to making a stable bracket are:
The bracket must be square and the edges must be flush
The bottom bracket needs to be longer than your deepest piece of equipment (9-1/4" long)
An angle piece ensures the upright piece does not lean back under the weight
I built 4 brackets like the one pictured above using hardwood and 2" (angle) and 3" deck screws (base to front). I drilled appropriate holes first so the wood wouldn't crack.
The book case dimensions are:
Bottom Shelf
9inches x Ninches x 3/4inch for side of bookcase
9inches x Ninches x 2inches for center of bookcase
Middle Shelf
8inches x Ninches x 3/4inch for side of bookcase
8inches x Ninches x 2inches for center of bookcase
Screw the Rack mounting hardware to the wood brackets
I made the upright piece a bit shorter (<1/8") than the bookcase dimensions. This allows it to slide in and out of the book case
Step 2. Assemble Patch Panel
In general, a patch panel isn't needed in a rack. However, in this situation, I want everything accessible via the front and I want it to look professional.
I don't want to use a punch down tool and I want ethernet cables coming in from the back. So the insert in the patch panel must be a female-to-female coupler. They just pop in. Be consistent in the orientation.
In the photos above, the bottom patch panel has all the couplers inserted. The top one does not.
Install the patch panel in the rack. I put the patch panels on the bottom Rack Unit (RU) of each rack (aka 01).
Step 3. Install the PoE Switch in the Rack
The PoE switch goes in 02
Step 4. Raspberry Pi with PoE
Step 5. Create Raspberry Pi PoE Holder
Step 6. Insert Raspberry Pi Holder
Mount the Raspberry Pi in the holder and insert into the Rack
In the image above, the Raspberry Pi holder is below the white device. It holds 4 Raspberry Pi 3B+s, which are using PoE.
Note: Normal rack screws don't work in the Monoprice tape holder.
References:
Inspiration: My Humble Homelab - there are many great ideas in this post
EIA-310 Rack Standard Dimensions
Best Bookcase Store in Austin - build to suit, best prices