Add Power Switch to Wemo

This is a terrible idea and will likely burn down your house (or mine). So, don't do it!

The Appendix Steps A-F show how I prototyped the idea to prove it works. Steps 1-4 are the only ones that need to be done.

Note: I have replaced all my WeMo switches. I don't recommend using them. But, I had them for more than 3 years. So, some of my WeMo work might help others.

Overview

Wemo switches have a number of trouble shooting steps that will resolve most issues.

The last step is to flip the circuit breaker that controls power to the Wemo, which can make the situation worse. Flipping the circuit breaker may cause other devices on your network to go offline. In general, causing a sudden power outage is a terrible way to correct an issue in an electrical or electronics device.

This page shows how to add a power switch to a WeMo. The little black slider in the upper left of the photo.

Background

I have two circuit breakers that cause me pain when WeMos lose connectivity:

One circuit breaker is connected to my gateway and controls power to my ISP's connection, but it also controls multiple WeMos.

Flipping this circuit breaker means the gateway restarts and all WeMos must reconnect, which may mean up to 15 WeMos go into a bad state.

A second circuit breaker controls my network rack and the associated switches and APs, but it also controls multiple WeMos.

Flipping the 2nd circuit breaker causes the same issue as above with both switches and on AP going down. 14 WeMos lose connectivity.

It would be great to just flip a switch cutting power on one Wemo switch, rather than flipping a circuit breaker cutting power to many devices and many WeMos.

So, I thought of this really bad idea. I'll put a small switch on the power line to the Wemo and eliminate the need to flip the circuit breaker.

Step 1. Parts & Tools

Here are the parts required to meet the requirements:

uxcell 10 pieces SS-12F16 2 Position 3P SPDT Micro Miniature Slide Switch Latching Toggle Switch, Amazon, $7.99
Wemo switch
Extra wire, which is same gauge as WeMo wires
Dremel with tiny drill bit and tiny grinding bit
Exacto knife
Needle nose pliers, with wire stripper
heat shrink tubing
Lutron wall plate
Heat shrink tubing

Step 2. Wires

A switch will be added to a Wemo's load wire. The WeMo's load wire (black) will go to the switch and be solder to one of the terminals.

WeMo Load 1st black wire >>> [ middle terminal - switch - end terminal ] >>> 2nd black wire

Cut a 4-5 inch black wire for power (or load) coming from the switch. This is the 2nd black wire

Strip 1/2 inch from each end of the 2nd black wire

Step 3. Measure and Cut holes

The hole's dimensions should cover the full movement of the switch from left to right. The hole's dimensions will depend on the switch selected.

Measure and cut switch hole in the top of the Wemo switch. The bottom of the WeMo has a metal plate, while the top is only plastic.

Measure and cut hole in wall mount for the Lutron wall plate. The switch should be accessible through the wall mount but not the faceplate. The faceplate can pop-off with a flathead screw driver. See image above and the left side WeMo with the switch visible at the top.

The switch requires an M2 or M1.8 screw. I chose a flathead, which is tapered and will screw in flush with the Wemo.

Step 4. Solder Wires

Solder the wire to the middle terminal and another wire to either of the other two terminals on the switch. It doesn't matter which one. I use blue mastic to keep the switch in one place, and it also provides a bit of insulation.

Since the terminals are very close together, I used heat shrink tubing to isolate the wires after they were soldered in place.

Appendix - How I created this switch

Step A. Parts & Tools

Here are the parts required to meet the requirements:

uxcell 10 pieces SS-12F16 2 Position 3P SPDT Micro Miniature Slide Switch Latching Toggle Switch, Amazon, $7.99
Wemo switch
Extra wire
Extension cord with the socket end cut off and 1/2 inch of the wire stripped
A light socket
An LED light bulb
Dremel with tiny drill bit and tiny grinding bit
Exacto knife
Needle nose pliers
Wire stripper
Electrical tape

Step B. Wires

Cut 3x 4-5 inch white wires and cut 3x 4-5 inch black wires.

Note: I used two yellow wires on the switch, where I should have used two black wires

Strip 1/2 inch from each end of the wires

Attach a black to one screw on the outlet's socket, and a white wire to the other screw.

Solder a wire to the middle terminal and another wire to either of the other two terminals on the switch. It doesn't matter which one. I use blue mastic to keep the switch in one place, and it also provides a bit of insulation.

Step C. Connections

Don't plug in the extension cord!

The connections are as follows:

Outlet black wire - black Wemo wire - one wire from switch
Outlet white wire - extension cord neutral - white Wemo wire
Extension cord power - other wire from switch

There should only be 3 connections. The image on the left has 4. The smallest is just connecting one black wire to another. So, it is long enough to connect in the first bullet above.

Twist or crimp the wires so the electrical contact is good.

Step D. Electrical Tape

I taped everything. I didn't want it to move, or to electrocute myself.

I start by folding a piece of electrical tape over the twisted wires, and then I wrap electrical tape around the folded tape and then down around the wires

Step E. Is it safe?

If everything is safe, then plug in the extension cord.

Try the small switch, and try the Wemo switch. You'll only get one chance because then it will reset, but I guess that is the point of this.

Step F. Measure and Cut holes

Measure and cut holes in the top of the Wemo switch.

The switch requires an M2 or M1.8 screw. I chose a flathead, which is tapered and will screw in flush with the Wemo.

The image to the left shows what the prototype looks like.

On the final, I will use:

a black, heavier gauge wire for the left-hand side, which will connect to the circuit breaker's line-in
the black wire on the right, coming from the Wemo, will be soldered to the switch
I will only use one screw hole, which is on the top left edge. Superglue will be used for the other side

Other minor modifications may be required to everything fits in a junction box and behind a Lutron faceplate.

Google Sites

Report abuse